History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List

History of Costume Fall 2019 Olivia Liu FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/01/2019 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/01/2019 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/08/2019 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/08/2019 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/15/201909/22/2019 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/15/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 7: The Italian Renaissance, 1400–1600

Phrygian bonnet:

The Phrygian cap or liberty cap

Is a soft conical cap with the apex bent forward.

Worn in ancient times and now identified with the liberty cap.

Saint Luke Painting the Virgin. Dirck Vellert (Netherlandish, Amsterdam (?) ca. 1480/85–ca. 1547). Date: 1526 Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1986.1000/ FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/22/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 8: The Northern Renaissance, 1500–1600

Stomacher: Stomacher or Filler of contrasting color insert into a V when doublets was cut a deep V.

Laces could be used to hold the open area together, and also to hold the sleeves in place.

Portrait of a Woman. Francesco Montemezzano (Italian, Venetian, ca. 1540–after 1602) Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/437146 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/22/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 9: Baroque 17th Century 1600-1700

Justaucorps:

-Knee-length coats replaced doublets as outer Garments. -Called surtouts (sur-tu’) or justacorps (jewst-a-cor’) by the French and cassocks by the English -Garments had fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs, and buttoned down the front. -They completely covered the breeches and waistcoat

Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P250. Image Source: https://portlandartmuseum.org/collection/a FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/29/2019 cquisitions/ History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 10: Rococo 18th Century 1700-1790

Pannier The French called these hoops paniers (pahn-yay€™ ), which means basket. Some hoops did produce the visual effect of perching a basket on either hip; however, the term was derived from the fact that both baskets and panniers might be made of wicker. In England, they were more likely to be called hoops.

The French pannier, a rare surviving example, has been fitted with hinges that allow the hoops to be lifted, facilitating movement in tight spaces. Panniers,ca. 1750, British Panniers,1760–70, French Source: Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collectio The British pannier shows the wider dress would be /83186 n/search/139668 narrower in profile. A woman so garbed had to pass through a doorway FASH 124 Olivia Liu 09/29/2019 Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P283. History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 11: The Directoire and Empire Period, 1790–1820

Chapeau bras

The bicorne was a two-pointed hat worn either with the points from front to back or from side to side.

When worn for evening and carried flattened, under the arm, the two-pointed hat was called a chapeau bras ( a French phrase meaning hat for Cocked hat or chapeau bras owned by LT Pardon the arm). Man's Bicorne Hat (Chapeau-bras), Made Mawney Whipple, about 1820. in Paris, France, Europe, c. 1800-1825 Source: Hats was made from silk, wool felt, or beaver ( Philadelphia Museum of Art https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2015/09/02/hats- felted beaver fur mixed with wool. Source: caps-and-chapeaux/ http://34.197.146.254/collections/permane nt/319121.html?mulR=437008525%7C2

FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/05/2019 Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P322. History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 12: The Romantic Period, 1820–1850

Imbecile or Idiot Sleeves

Imbecile or idiot sleeves: extremely full from shoulder to wrist, where they gathered into a fitted cuff.

The name imbecile derived from the fact that its construction was similar to that of sleeves used on garments for confining mad persons— a sort of strait jacket of the period.

They were called imbecile sleeves because

Woman's Day Dress, Made in Philadelphia, they were similar to the sleeves used for The extreme breadth of the sleeves of this silk Pennsylvania, United States, North and confining the mentally ill who became violent. taffeta day dress represents the last vestige of the Central America. c. 1830. "imbecile" style. Europe, c. 1836-37 Source: Source: https://www.philamuseum.org/collections/p https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/07/r ermanent/181459.html?mulR=1257269118 omantic.html %7C3

Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P334-335. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/05/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 13 The Crinoline Period 1850-1869

Porte Jupe or Dress Elevator

A porte jupe, or dress elevator : -A device help to raise skirt from the ground.

- It was placed under the skirt and

-It was fastened to the hem of the skirt with loops that enclose buttons.

-A tab at the front of the elevator pulled to

Amsterdam Museum. Periode raise the device in much the same way that one 1858 - 1866 would raise a modern-day Venetian blind. Source: Der Bazar. 1858. XI. Band.Nr. 38. https://www.modemuze.nl/collecties/porte-jupe Source: http://digital.ub.uni-duesseldorf.de/ihd/periodical /pageview/2966010 Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P370. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/11/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 14: The Bustle Period and the Nineties, 1870-1900

Little Lord Fauntleroy suits

Little Lord Fauntleroy suits consisted of a velvet tunic, ending slightly below the waist; tight knickerbockers; a wide sash; and a wide, white lace collar.

This outfit was based on clothing worn by the hero of the children’s book of the same name. The similarity of this costume to that worn by Oscar Wilde was no coincidence.

The truth is that relatively few boys actually wore Little Lord Fauntleroy suit.

Cabinet card, gelatin silver print. C.1900 Trade cards from the set "Actresses, Celebrities, and Source: Children"issued ca. 1888 by W. Duke Sons & Co. https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/09 Source: /little-lord-fauntleroy.html https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/7512 60?&searchField=All&ft=Little+Lord+Fauntleroy+Suit Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY &offset=0&rpp=20&pos=2 OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P410. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/13/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 15: The Edwardian Period and World War I, 1900–1920

Tailor-Made

The garment called a tailor-made, which today would be called a woman’€™s suit, was an important item of clothing for women.

Jackets varied in length, ending anywhere from the waist to below the hip. Shorter jackets were generally fitted; long jackets were sometimes loose and sac like.

Many tailor-mades imitated the cut of men’€™s Woman's suit. About 1900, 19th century or 20th century "Tailor-made" suit. Henry Morgan & Co. Ltd jackets Source: About 1898, 19th century http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/arti Source: facts/M977.44.2.1-2 http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/arti facts/M2003.12.2.1-2 Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY

OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P434. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/20/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 16: The 20's, 30's, and WWII

Clutch Coats

Some coats, known as Clutch Coats, had to be held shut because they had no fastening.

They were clasped together with the hand, or fell open to reveal the dress underneath. Period fashion illustrations often picture women grasping both sides of their coats, while also holding a small purse tucked under the arm.

(https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/1920s/)

Coat. c. 1926. Silk & lamé brocade & mink Woman's "clutch" coat. American. 1929. Silk; Source: brocade https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/1920s/ Source: https://collections.mfa.org/objects/126094

Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P477. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/20/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 17: The New Look Fashion Conformity Prevails, 1947-1960 Beatniks

The predecessors of the youthful protests movements of the 1960s were the beatniks, who appeared in the latter part of the 1950s. Beginning as a literary movement that included writer Jack Kerouac and poets Allen Ginsberg and Gregory Corso, the €œ ”beats” € adopted eccentric habits of dress and grooming- “beards, pony tails, dirty sneakers, peasant blouses” (Brooks, 1966, 232). They experimented with drugs, turned to eastern mysticism, especially Zen Buddhism, and rejected the “square” € world. Contacts with French existentialists led to the adoption of black clothes, especially turtlenecks and berets for men and leotards, tights, and ballet slippers for women

The end of the beatnik culture did not end rejection of From left to right: Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, and Gregory Corso. Photo by Bruce contemporary culture for the creation of subcultures that Davidson, courtesy of the Ginsberg Blog. Source: influenced fashion and society. https://www.museumpalooza.com/blog/2017/2/19/literary-rebels-on-the-road-with-califor nia-beatniks Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P509. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/25/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 18: The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge

Hip Huggers

In the early 1960s, the predominant style, called hip huggers, had wide, flaring or bell-bottom legs, fitted smoothly across the hip, and was often made with a facing rather than a waistband at the top.

These pants were set lower on the hip than the anatomical waistline. The flared bottoms of bell-bottom pants derived from the shape of the pant legs of sailor’s uniforms.

These wide-legged trousers were originally designed to make it easier for men to remove their clothing to swim, to pull off the trousers without catching them on their shoes

Henri Cartier-Bresson. USA. Nevada. Las Vegas. 1967.

Source: Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF https://pro.magnumphotos.com/C.aspx?VP3=SearchRes HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P568. ult&STID=2S5RYD1U7LFK&utm_medium=Social&ut m_source=Pinterest FASH 124 Olivia Liu 10/26/2019 History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 19: The 80's and 90's; Fragmentation of Fashion

Preppy

Affluent students in Ivy League colleges, who would become yuppies after graduation, and their imitators wore preppy styles, a name derived from the private preparatory schools many of these students had attended before college.

The preppy look stressed classic tweed blazers, conservatively cut skirts or trousers, tailored blouses or shirts, and high-quality leather loafers, oxfords, or pumps.

Source: Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC Students modeling preppy high school COSTUME. 6th Edition., P614. Preppy Fashion / Americana. Hardcover fashion, Mercer Island, December 4, Take Ivy by Teruyoshi Hayashida 1980 Source: Source: http://www.powerhousearena.com/shop/catal https://digitalcollections.lib.washington. og/product/view/id/116 edu/digital/collection/imlsmohai/id/9431 FASH 124 Olivia Liu 11/3/2019 / History of Costume Illustrated Digital Vocabulary List Chapter 20: The New Millennium

Hoodie

A sportswear look also donned by women and children, the hoodie was popular and often included sports or brand logos .

Hoodies were manufactured in a wide variety of weights and styles from lightweight jersey to vests to fleece lined jackets.

Person of the Year 2010. Mark Zuckerberg

Source: http://content.time.com/time/person-of-the-year/2010/ Rihanna at a Party in Frankfurt April 24, 2010

Source: http://www.starstyle.com/rihanna-at-party-fra Source: nkfurt-sp46789/ Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition., P680. FASH 124 Olivia Liu 11/3/2019