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DECEMBER 2017 | Since 1979 AndrewHarper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

HOSPITABLE INNS, EVOCATIVE LANDSCAPES, CULTURAL TREASURES COVER PHOTOGRAPH Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland, Northumberland

ENGLAND’S NORTH COUNTRY THIS MONTH

ver the years, I have followed numer- largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps. SCENIC BRITISH ROAD TRIP ous driving itineraries in England The Middle Ages also gave York imposing Our circuitous route took us through the Oand Scotland, but they have invari- city walls, built on top of the Roman ones, pristine countryside of Yorkshire, Cumbria and ably been circular and self-contained. On which remain almost completely intact. Northumberland. Highlights of our trip included memorable visits to Castle Howard, Fountains this trip I constructed a route that links In the past, my preferred place to stay Abbey, Hadrian’s Wall and Alnwick Castle...... 1-6 the two countries together. I decided that has been Middlethorpe Hall, a classically our point of departure would be York, a proportioned redbrick mansion dating TOURING THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST historic city at the southern edge of the from 1701, set amid 20 acres of landscaped After a sojourn in Portland, we headed north Yorkshire Dales National Park, and that we grounds, about two and a half miles from to Whidbey Island and San Juan Island, before would conclude our journey in Edinburgh. the city center. Although I still recom- returning to cosmopolitan Seattle...... 7-11 York is the gateway to a hilly, unspoiled mend Middlethorpe (it has a rating of 94), region that extends north for approxi- on this occasion I decided to try to find  Find additional stories, video and more mately 125 miles to the Scottish border and somewhere close to the center of the city, photography at AndrewHarper.com. that spans around 150 miles from the Lake from where it might be possible to stroll District in the west to the North Sea coast to the principal attractions. Andrew Harper travels anonymously and in the east. The city was established by the When I first heard about Grays Court, pays full rate for all lodging, meals and Romans in A.D. 71. In the ninth century it I could scarcely believe my luck. It seemed related travel expenses. Since the launch of this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels became a Viking capital, Jórvík. Later, York to be precisely the kind of hideaway for and restaurants have been selected on a prospered as a result of the wool trade, and which I am constantly searching (and which completely independent basis. in 1080 work began on York Minster, the is more elusive than many people suppose).

Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Castle Howard’s majestic south façade Dating in part to 1080, it may possibly be Sadly, the pattern was repeated the the oldest continuously occupied house following morning. The food was fine, but in England. The 11-room hotel is tucked the meal was so extended that breakfast away beneath the city walls and overlooks threatened to morph into brunch. So a private half-acre garden, despite being after complaining at length to the on-duty within a three-minute walk of the cathedral. manager, we checked out. Clearly, Grays Initially, all my expectations were Court is chronically understaffed, which is fulfilled. After check-in, a polite young unfortunate, because the property other-

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER woman gave us a tour of the public areas. wise has many of the qualities required to Chief among these was the stunning Jaco- be an exceptional hideaway. CASTLE HOWARD bean oak-paneled Long Gallery. We were Our quest for a suitable hotel close to also shown a peaceful library and The the city center continued at The Grand or us, as for many Americans, the Downton Bow Room restaurant, a light-filled space Hotel, an utterly different property that F Abbey world of the grand English country with views of the garden, a molded ceil- stands just outside the city walls, about house is a source of enduring fascination. Many ing, a chandelier and a marble fireplace. a 10-minute walk from the cathedral. An writers have speculated as to why this milieu Having ascended two more short flights imposing Edwardian redbrick structure, should so appeal to a people who founded a of stairs (there is no elevator), we came The Grand has recently been the subject nation in revolt against monarchy and aristocracy, to our generously spacious room. It too of a major refurbishment. Alas, once but I’ve never heard a convincing explanation. overlooked the garden, with the 235-foot again, our experience did not chime with It’s just a self-evident fact. The film location of central tower of the cathedral providing a expectations. The only noteworthy aspect Downton Abbey is Highclere Castle in Berkshire, majestic backdrop. Although the décor was of our stay was provided by Hudsons, the to the west of London, but in the story, the house quite austere, with a large white sofa, heavy fine-dining restaurant, where chef Craig is said to be in Yorkshire. This northern county slate-blue curtains and period furniture Atchinson was responsible for a superlative has long been a place where England’s wellborn but no pictures, the atmosphere seemed nine-course tasting menu accompanied and well-to-do have come to relax on their country peaceful and timeless. The adjacent marble by imaginative wine pairings. Dishes such estates and shoot the game birds that populate its bath was modern and well-lit. as sea trout with kohlrabi, violet mustard, hills and moors. However, one Yorkshire country At this point, I was close to euphoric. house exceeds all others in grandeur. Castle chicory and hedgerow berries; and glazed Howard lies 15 miles northeast of York and has But it was all too good to last. Having beef cheek with hen of the woods mush- been the home of the Howard family, the Earls of made our way down to dinner, we stood at rooms, horseradish and alliums will live Carlisle, for more than 300 years. With 145 rooms, the entrance to the dining room. Nobody long in the memory. it is one of England’s largest stately homes. Castle appeared. I decided to be proactive, so I Leaving York, we headed northwest Howard was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh, who knocked on the kitchen door and put my for 30 miles to the ruins of Fountains was also responsible for the colossal Blenheim head inside. A waitress emerged, but no Abbey, founded in 1132 and once the Palace in Oxfordshire (the birthplace of Winston apology for the delay was offered. We sat wealthiest abbey in England. (Between Churchill). Work began in 1699 and took 100 years down at 7:40, but it was nearly 8:15 before 1536 and 1541, King Henry VIII seized to complete. Aside from its architectural splendor anyone took our order. Not only was it close the assets of England’s religious orders, and one of the world’s finest private art collec- to an hour before we got anything to eat, which collectively owned around a quarter tions, Castle Howard’s appeal also stems from its the wait between courses was interminable. of the country’s land and had an income having been the fictional Brideshead, in both the Ultimately, we grew tired of waiting and, considerably higher than that of the king.) television and movie versions of Evelyn Waugh’s feeling extremely disappointed and irri- Today the ruins form a focal point for the “Brideshead Revisited.” tated, headed upstairs to bed. remarkable water gardens of Studley Royal

Our Herbert Royle Suite bedroom, and street entrance at The Devonshire Arms Hotel & Spa, Bolton Abbey, North Yorkshire / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2017 Picturesque ruins of 12th-century Bolton Abbey, and the harmonious landscape of Wensleydale, North Yorkshire / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site and living room came with a gas fire, while the were painted by J.M.W. Turner among one of the few great 18th-century English bedroom provided a canopied four-poster others, are close by. And Northern York- gardens to survive substantially in its bed. Views extended over the estate to the shire contains several well-known long- original form. sheep-speckled hills. distance hiking trails, including the Dales After relaxing for a while, we headed Way, which runs for some 80 miles from rom Studley Royal, it is a 25-mile to the lounge at the heart of the original Ilkley to Windermere in the Lake District, drive west to The Devonshire Arms inn. There we found a huge silver cooler and sections of the 268-mile-long Pennine FHotel & Spa, situated beside the River set atop a central table containing a variety Way, which begins at Edale in Derbyshire Wharfe on the Bolton Abbey estate, which of French Champagnes. Having settled and ends at Kirk Yetholm on the Scottish has been owned by the Dukes of Devonshire into deep burgundy-colored armchairs, border. (The latter was proposed in 1935 since 1753. The setting of the 40-room we ordered two flutes, which were served by journalist Tom Stephenson, who had hotel is extremely scenic, with extensive promptly along with a selection of canapés. been inspired by his experiences on the grounds, including a cricket pitch, backed The barman was charm personified, as was Appalachian Trail.) by the North Yorkshire hills. The property the waiter who arrived with menus from comprises an early-17th-century inn and a the adjacent Burlington Restaurant. e left The Devonshire Arms with modern extension, which together enclose The hotel’s young chef, Paul Leonard, regret and drove north to Bain- a small formal garden. already has an impressive résumé, which Wbridge in Wensleydale. The journey Check-in was at a freestanding desk in includes stints as sous chef at Michelin can be accomplished in around 90 minutes a stone-flagged hall, with a beamed ceiling two-star Andrew Fairlie at The Gleneagles along the main highways, but much of the and a large log fire. A number of fly rods Hotel in Scotland and head chef at the pleasure of travel in the Yorkshire Dales were propped in a corner next to the door, Isle of Eriska in the Hebrides. My duck comes from exploring the narrow back testifying to the Wharfe’s abundant brown liver with Sauternes, apple and praline roads and tiny stone villages — often with trout population. As you might expect in was delicious, as was the local Nidder- the aid of a large-scale Ordnance Survey an old building, rooms at the lower end of dale lamb with turnips that followed. In touring map. the price range tend to be small. I there- the contemporary style, Leonard places Set beside the tumbling River Ure, fore recommend only Superior Rooms and a premium on regional, seasonal and Yorebridge House is a dignified Victorian Luxury Rooms, which range from 215 to 300 foraged ingredients. His presentations stone building. In 2006 it was converted square feet. Both categories can be booked are also thoroughly modern, being small into a boutique hotel of 12 rooms and in the original inn building. In addition, the and exquisite. Anyone hoping for gener- suites. The property’s contemporary style property has suites in the extension and ous servings of substantial Yorkshire fare is immediately apparent in public areas, two three-bedroom cottages. after a strenuous day outdoors is destined where the furniture is fashionable and, to We had opted for the Herbert Royle for disappointment and may well have my eye, somewhat urban in style. Suite, named for the well-regarded Brit- recourse to the bread basket. Located on the ground floor, our ish Impressionist painter, who was born The principal amenity at The Devon- room, Rahmoune, proved somewhat snug, in Manchester in 1870 but who subse- shire Arms is a spa, housed within a former though its dimensions were augmented quently moved to Bolton Abbey. Both the barn adjacent to the hotel. This has an by an outdoor gravel terrace with a hot living room and bedroom were decorated indoor swimming pool and a Jacuzzi. When tub. The origins of its unusual name were in a traditional style, with heavy floral not being pampered, guests hike, shoot, fish soon apparent. Behind the bed was a large fabrics, period furniture and around a or tour nearby cultural monuments. The carved headboard, which, an information dozen of Royle’s original landscapes. The picturesque ruins of Bolton Priory, which sheet informed us, had been brought from

DECEMBER 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Marrakech by the hotel’s owners. Such tions that was doubtless responsible for the exotic touches may appeal to weekenders Lake District’s being added to UNESCO’s HADRIAN’S WALL from London, but visitors from the United World Heritage list in July. States have presumably crossed the Atlan- In the relatively recent past, my recom- arlam Hall is just a few minutes’ drive from one tic to experience England, not Morocco. mended hotel in the Lake District was F of the best-preserved sections of Hadrian’s Overall, Yorebridge House proved Holbeck Ghyll, overlooking Lake Winder- Wall, which formed the northern boundary of comfortable, its staff were professional and mere, but it was dropped from The Andrew the Roman Empire for around 250 years. Begun the restaurant was excellent. (My black figs Harper Collection after several trenchant in A.D. 122, the wall is 73 miles long and was with goat cheese, and grouse with beetroot complaints from members. On this trip I originally about 20 feet high and 10 feet wide, were both delicious.) However, the hotel’s had hoped to visit Gilpin Hotel & Lake with a fort every mile and two lookout turrets design and atmosphere are not calculated House, also near Windermere, but alas, it in between. The largest Roman structure in to appeal to American travelers. was fully booked. I am assured by reliable existence, it was added to the UNESCO World The Yorkshire Dales National Park informants that this is now the region’s Heritage list in 1987. We visited the wall at merges with the 885 square miles of the best place to stay. Denied the opportunity Cawfields, where it runs along a dramatic ridge Lake District National Park. The latter to experience Gilpin Hotel for myself, I and can be seen snaking across the rugged terrain for two or three miles in either direction. has long been one of our favorite areas of made a reservation at Forest Side, which To the north, a windswept rolling landscape England, with glassy expanses of water overlooks Grasmere, a village that lies just extends for nearly 40 miles to the Scottish border. reflecting steep 3,000-foot hills and deep to the northwest of Windermere. Today the wall stands five or six feet above the glacial valleys. The poet William Words­ Forest Side is a large Victorian stone ground. For centuries, its stones were used in worth was born in the town of Cocker- house, which was renovated and converted local construction and, in the 18th century, for an mouth, at the northwestern edge of the into a hotel in 2014. First impressions count extensive program of roadbuilding. But despite Lakes, where his family home is now a for a lot, and on this occasion mine were these depredations, it is still an impressive and museum. But most of the other writers negative. The steps leading up to the front evocative sight. A hiking trail, the Hadrian’s Wall and painters associated with the region — door looked as though they might last have Path, follows alongside for its entire length. Close Constable, Turner, Coleridge and the art been washed or swept around the time to Cawfields, two museums are well worth a visit. critic Ruskin — were tourists. During the of the millennium; the receptionist was The Roman Army Museum seeks to explain the Napoleonic Wars, it was impossible for the abrupt, and her desk and the surround- lives and experiences of the Roman soldiers on English to travel in Europe. So starved of ing area of the lobby were a wilderness of this far-flung frontier. Although there are relatively the landscapes of the Alps, they learned to disorganized paperwork. Fortunately, our few original artifacts, the displays and reconstruc- make do with their own country’s nearest room turned out to be spacious, bright and tions are excellent, as is a 20-minute 3-D film, “Edge of Empire.” In contrast, the Chesterholm equivalent. And it is this combination of tranquil, with large sash windows overlook- Museum at Vindolanda is situated next to the scenic beauty and rich cultural associa- ing lawns and thick woodland. Once again, extensive remains of a Roman fort, which are still being excavated each summer. Archaeologists Exterior, and our room at Farlam Hall, Cumbria / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER have studied layers 20 feet below the surface, where thousands of artifacts have been preserved by the anoxic (oxygen-free) conditions. Chief among them are the famous Vindolanda tablets, approximately 1,300 wooden sheets, each about the size of a postcard, with still-legible text written in ink. The tablets record vivid details of daily life, as well as official military matters. One highlight is an invitation to a birthday party held around A.D. 100, which is considered to be the oldest surviving document written in Latin by a woman. Most of the Vindolanda tablets are now on display in The British Museum in London, but a small selection can be seen at the site.

Hadrian’s Wall at Cawfields / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2017 Front entrance, and our room at Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland, Northumberland / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER the interior design was contemporary and lacking in regional character. One welcome aspect of modernity was the well-lit and stylishly appointed bath. I soon discovered that my experience with the receptionist was not entirely typical. Other staff members, including the French maitre d’, were charming. The restaurant, which was awarded a star in the 2017 Michelin Guide, has been respon- sible for much of the favorable publicity that Forest Side has garnered of late. And dinner did not disappoint. We opted for the six-course tasting menu, and it was exceptional. I particularly enjoyed the duck-heart salad with horseradish, burnt green kale and pickled walnuts, and the aged Shorthorn rib with golden chante- relles cooked in bone marrow. Each course came with an interesting wine pairing, and the sommelier could not have been more pleasant or informative. Although I remain unconvinced that the hotel will appeal to affluent American travelers — weekenders from London again seem to be the intended clientele — the restaurant certainly lives up to its lauda- tory reviews.

he southern edge of the Lake District is roughly 90 miles north of Manchester. TAs a result, Windermere attracts large of Cumbria, close to Hadrian’s Wall, log fires and period furniture. The large numbers of visitors and is best avoided in the famous Roman defensive fortifica- formal dining room has floor-to-ceiling July and August and on weekends, except in tion built at the beginning of the second windows and looks out across a small winter. The landscape around Windermere century (see sidebar). Farlam Hall is a ornamental lake. Barry Quinion’s menus is also softer and prettier than elsewhere; 12-bedroom country house hotel that has employ Cumbrian products whenever my own preference is for the more elemen- been a Harper recommendation for many possible — my local lamb was superb — and tal landscapes slightly farther north. For years. Since 1975, the hotel has been owned the service is gracious and prompt. I can example, the 27-mile drive from Ambleside and run by the Quinion family — Barry only hope that when the property is sold, to Wasdale Head, over the Wrynose and Quinion oversees the kitchen, while his its new owners will maintain the standards Hardknott passes, is spectacular. (At the wife, Lynne, and his sister, Helen, run the of excellence that have been established top of Hardknott Pass, there are the evoca- front-of-house — but at the time of writing, and refined over nearly half a century. tive remains of a second-century Roman the property is for sale. Forty-two years fort. And the Wasdale Head Inn is a simple is clearly a long time to run a family busi- riving directly east from Brampton, but atmospheric pub generally regarded ness, but it is always a little sad when such we came to the county of Northum- as the birthplace of British rock climbing.) a distinguished tenure draws to a close. Dberland, most of which is, by English Ultimately, however, it is only on foot that When we visited, in early fall, the standards, wild and empty, especially the you come to appreciate the region’s true Quinions were still very much in evidence Cheviot Hills, which extend into southern character. The Lake District is a hiker’s and the levels of comfort and hospitality Scotland. The tiny village of Blanchland paradise — the National Park contains were as impressive as ever. Our tranquil has a population of around 135 people. nearly 2,000 miles of public trails — and room (No. 2) had an appealing view over Blanchland Abbey was founded in 1165 for a there are walks suitable for every level lawns and a pretty stream. Its décor was white-robed order of monks, who had come of fitness. thoroughly traditional, with gold-striped to this remote corner of northern England wallpaper, a heavy floral quilt on the king- to live in prayer and contemplation. Today rom Grasmere, we headed northeast size bed, full-length curtains, a pair of the former abbot’s lodge is the Lord Crewe for 55 miles to Brampton, a small armchairs and a writing desk. Arms, a 21-room hotel that also incorpo- Fmarket town that lies 14 miles east The hotel’s public areas are similarly rates the village pub. At the beginning of of Carlisle, the administrative center traditional, with chintz sofas in front of the 18th century, the land belonged to Lord

DECEMBER 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Nathaniel Crewe, bishop of Durham — the Lord Crewe’s trustees, and all the inhabit- hotel building comprises a succession of city of Durham, with its stupendous Norman ants are tenants. As a result, Blanchland medieval rooms, with beamed ceilings, cathedral, lies 30 miles to the southeast has hardly changed in the past 296 years. stone-flagged floors, cavernous fireplaces — but in 1721 Lord Crewe died, leaving his On arrival, we made our way from the and stone walls hung with bloodcurdling estate to a trust, set up to provide financial parking lot through a lovely walled garden, displays of axes, swords and spears. The support to schools and colleges. Nowadays bright with roses and hydrangeas, that was accommodations are located in a number the village of Blanchland still belongs to once a cloister for the monks. The main of adjacent cottages as well as the main house. Our room, Jeffries Rake, was on the second floor of a converted cottage and accessed by a private staircase. It EDINBURGH 7 felt cozy and comfortable. A double bed LINDISFARNE (HOLY ISLAND) topped with a white duvet and a tartan 6 rug faced an impressive stone fireplace. ALNWICK The adjacent bath was well-appointed, but CASTLE NORTH being rather narrow, it was convenient for SEA only one person at a time. SCOTLAND After a glass of wine in the stone-walled NEWCASTLE candlelit pub, The Crypt, where hotel guests ’ S W I A N A L L UPON TYNE H A D R were greatly outnumbered by villagers downing pints of Lord Crewe Brew, the local 4 5 CARLISLE ale, we headed to The Bishops Dining Room NORTHERN DURHAM for dinner. There chef Simon Hicks serves LAKE sustaining traditional fare, using the best DISTRICT IRELAND English ingredients. Typical mains include IRISH NATIONAL3 NORTH YORK PARK MOORS rump of veal with hazelnuts and grilled SEA YORKSHIRE NATIONAL PARK Lake Windermere DALES CASTLE broccoli, and salt-aged porterhouse steak NATIONAL FOUNTAINS HOWARD with Truffle Hunter mustard. It being the ISLE OF MAN PARK ABBEY BOLTON appropriate season (August to October), I ABBEY 1 1 Middlethorpe Hall (94) 2 opted for the roasted grouse with spiced 2 The Devonshire Arms Hotel & Spa (94) YORK red cabbage, which was memorable. The 3 Forest Side (89) portions are generous, as many of the IRELAND 4 Farlam Hall (94) ENGLAND 5 Lord Crewe Arms (93) hotel’s guests spend all day in the fresh 6 Cringletie House (92) 0 40 MI air, notably shooting pheasant, partridge MANCHESTER 7 The Balmoral (95) 0 40 KM and grouse on the surrounding moors. After an idyllic couple of days, we

ANGLESEY headed north to Scotland. Edinburgh lies a two-and-a-half-hour drive away, but we HOTELS AT A GLANCE opted to a take a longer route along the coast in order to visit Alnwick Castle (seat THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS HOTEL & SPA A94 of the Duke of Northumberland, as well LIKE The extremely picturesque setting; comfortable and atmospheric accommodations; the exceptional restau- as the location for Hogwarts in two of the rant. DISLIKE The hotel’s extension lacks the architectural distinction that the lovely setting demands. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel and the estate are owned by the Duke of Devonshire, who lives at Chatsworth (open to the public), a Harry Potter movies); Bamburgh Castle, magnificent country house, one of the grandest in England, in northern Derbyshire, 90 miles to the south. Superior built on a dramatic outcrop overlooking Room, $400; Suite, $460. Bolton Abbey, Skipton,BIRMINGHAM North Yorkshire. Tel. (44) 1756-718-111. thedevonshirearms.co.uk a spectacular stretch of North Sea coast- line; and the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, FARLAM HALL A94 whichC wasAMBRIDGE an important center of early LIKE The dignified old house; lovely, tranquil gardens with a stream and a small lake; warm hospitality; fine Christianity until the Viking invasions in cuisine. DISLIKE The fact that the property is now for sale, having been owned and run by the Quinion family for the past 42 years. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel is just over two miles from Hadrian’s Wall and a 20-minute drive to the the eighth century. Vindolanda Roman archaeological site and its fascinating museum. Deluxe Double Room, $320. Brampton, Cumbria. As we had been away for two weeks Tel. (44) 1697-746-234.W ALEfarlamhall.co.ukS and1 HR needed to be back in the United States, we concluded our journey at The LORD CREWE ARMS A93 OXFORD Balmoral in Edinburgh. However, travel- LIKE The exceptionally pretty village; atmospheric medieval public areas; the excellent restaurant. DISLIKE Due ers with sufficient time who wish to see to the remote location, there is no cell phone service. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel often hosts shooting parties that have come to hunt on the nearby moors. Canny Room, $250; Suite, $300. The Square, Blanchland, Northumberland. moreL ONDONof the lovely border region can stay Tel. (44) 1434-677-100. lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk at the Harper-recommended Cringle- tie House hotel, near Peebles, 98 miles preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on these and 38 more recommendations in England. Grays Court (87), north of Blanchland and 20 miles south of The Grand Hotel (86), Yorebridge House (88) and Forest Side (89) were not up to the required standard. Scotland’s capital. H Strait of Dover 6 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2017

E nglish Channel

CHANNEL ISLANDS FRANCE PORTLAND, WHIDBEY ISLAND, SAN JUAN ISLANDS AND SEATTLE EXPLORING THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

View of the San Juan Islands on our ferry ride from Anacortes to Friday Harbor, Washington / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

he great secret of the Oregon and deco-style carpet and steel-gray walls. But entirely occupied by towels. I also didn’t Washington coast is that in summer framed botanical specimens and several care for the worn, slightly yellowed bath- Tthey’re quite sunny. Indeed, the region accent lamps kept the room from feeling robes or the frayed accent pillow atop the around Portland became so dry this year too cold or dark. The large bedroom had bed. Having access to a small, unstaffed that wildfires broke out, damaging trea- a similar color scheme, enlivened by an lounge, The Room at the End of the Hall, was sured landscapes along the picturesque accent wall covered in a grayish-gold floral nice enough, but it did not invite lingering, Columbia River Gorge. During our road print. To the left of the gas fireplace hung with its too-large television and unimpres- trip, we had planned on hiking in that very a carved-wood head of a buck, complete sive drink and snack selection. area, but our stay coincided with the worst with bright-blue antlers. The king-size The public spaces all impressed, of the fires. Fortunately, Portland itself bed had a riveted leather headboard and however, notably the grand marble-floored provides a wealth of diversions. was flanked by rustic wood nightstands. lobby, with Ionic pilasters leading up to Portland is a welcoming city, but I appreciated the separate shower an ornately coffered, gilded ceiling. The service tends to be more friendly than and jetted tub in the bath, but the single stylish art deco Jackknife bar drew a lively effective. Travelers accustomed to interna- vintage-style pedestal sink had no counter crowd, and in the other wing, Jake’s Grill tional standards will likely find its luxury space, and the shelving nearby was almost presented massive sepia-toned Western- hotels disappointing. The best of the bunch is the stylish Sentinel, with 100 rooms Entrance, and bedroom detail of our Bridgetown Parlor Suite King at Sentinel / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER divided between two historic buildings: the terra-cotta-clad 1909 Seward Hotel and the monumental neoclassical former Elks Lodge. When we arrived, a hotel staffer held the door as we rolled our bags inside, making no offer to take them off our hands. And at check-in, the receptionist explained that the front desk staff members were also concierges. I’m not sure Les Clefs d’Or would agree. In our Bridgetown Parlor Suite King, designed by local store Boys Fort, the décor felt masculine, with a dark-gray art

DECEMBER 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 themed murals, cozy booths with curtains and an art deco glass dome. Sentinel has its PORTLAND RESTAURANT DISCOVERIES flaws, but I wouldn’t object to a return visit. I would be less inclined to come back One of the great draws of Portland is its cuisine, whether from a gourmet food to the 150-room Heathman Hotel, where, truck or a Michelin star-quality restaurant. Oregon’s agricultural areas produce an according to its website, “the art of service array of delicious fruits and vegetables, of which chefs take full advantage. Seafood is alive and well.” Alive, perhaps, but also tends to be excellent. And, of course, wines from the Willamette Valley now dangerously close to losing conscious- compete with the best in the world. ness. The purpose of the incongruous Beefeater at the entrance appeared to be entirely decorative, as neither he nor Ever since chef Justin Woodward took the helm at this fine-dining restaurant in his colleague offered to help us with our 2013, he’s earned accolades, including four James Beard Award nominations. The luggage. I was pleased to learn that though white, black and wood décor is simple, verging on plain, but the jewel-like food we had arrived at about 12:30 p.m., our suite presentations firmly held my attention. We chose the seven-course Dinner Menu, was ready. Unfortunately, the promised as opposed to the 12-course Chef’s Tasting Menu, and though the portions were welcome cocktails were not. One woman quite small, we left feeling thoroughly satisfied. I particularly liked the smoky and manned the three desks in the lobby, and citrusy blistered Romano and sea beans, delicate and fresh kohlrabi-wrapped she interrupted our check-in to take a call albacore tuna with marigold, and a complex dessert of sourdough ice cream from another guest. Here, too, the front with local grapes, Thai basil and caramelized white chocolate. 1752 SE Hawthorne desk staff double as “concierges.” She gave Boulevard. Tel. (503) 231-7373. us a map of Portland, without orienting Little Bird us, and sent us, unaccompanied, up to our , across the river, has earned impressive awards for chef Gabriel Rucker, Renaissance Suite. and it’s certainly worth adding to your Portland dining itinerary. But in search More of an open-plan junior suite, our of more options downtown, I opted to try its sister restaurant, Little Bird, within accommodations had a quirky contem- walking distance of Powell’s Books, Pioneer Courthouse Square and the Lan Su porary décor. Furnishings were mostly Chinese Garden. This upscale French bistro occupies an old storefront space tan, beige and black. I liked that we had with powder-blue walls and a black pressed-tin ceiling. The food feels modern two baths, though both, inexplicably, had but unfussy. I loved my terrine-like appetizer of cream cheese-wrapped golden shower-tub combinations with curtains. beets with al dente flageolet beans, watercress and walnuts, as well as my main of The marble counters and C.O. Bigelow chicken-fried trout topped with fried caper flowers, radish slices and dill. An ideal toiletries were appealing. However, the lunch choice. 215 SW 6th Avenue. Tel. (503) 688-5952. carpet by our front door was torn, and I didn’t care for the lack of turndown service Restaurant or the $27.67-per-day “facilities fee.” Chefs Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton won the 2017 James Beard The library proved surprisingly ster- Award for Best Chef Northwest, and Ox draws crowds nightly. (Since reservations ile, but not so the ornate Tea Court Lounge, are not accepted, we had the choice of sitting at the bar immediately or waiting a grand space with soaring ceilings, wood- 90 minutes for a table.) I was excited to try the restaurant’s “Argentine-inspired paneled walls and a crystal chandelier. Portland food,” prepared mostly on a dramatic wood-fired grill. The expensive Russian-style high tea is served there on skirt steak was tender and flavorful and the highlight of the meal. A salad of radic- Saturdays, but otherwise, it is unstaffed. chio and green beans in a charred-onion dressing with ricotta salata and bottarga Why The Heathman would leave its finest tasted fine, but the dressing — more ricotta salata than charred onion — weighed space fallow six days a week is beyond my it down. And a summer ragout of favas, zucchini, escarole, basil and mint was too comprehension. I quite liked the restau- acidic for my taste. If you want to try the Dentons’ cooking, you might have better rant, Headwaters, where James Beard luck at their newly opened SuperBite, which accepts reservations. 2225 NE Martin Award-winning chef Vitaly Paley serves Luther King Jr. Boulevard. Tel. (503) 284 3366. a fine seafood-focused menu. The restaurant was also the bright Blistered Romano and sea beans at Castagna, and chicken-fried trout at Little Bird / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER spot of The Nines, a 331-room property on the upper floors of a former department store. Futuristic Departure Restaurant serves Asian-inspired shared plates, and I especially liked the kampachi sashimi served on taro chips with yuzu and black garlic, and the crispy striped bass with green mango and chile-lime sauce. A member of Starwood’s Luxury Collection, The Nines has certain ameni- ties that its competitors in Portland don’t,

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2017 including actual concierges and a proper pilasters framed the queen bed, faced by Grüner Veltliner and a six-puttonyos Tokaji club lounge, with staff. The hotel’s atrium, a woodburning fireplace. Like the rest of rosé, only added to the occasion. (Puttonyos home to the restaurant, is the room, the bath kept to earth tones, is the unit that denotes the level of sugar impressive, as is some of the contemporary with a moss-green counter, a shower tiled and hence the sweetness of Hungarian art decorating the hotel. in imitation stone and a large jetted tub dessert wine.) In almost all other respects, The Nines beneath a water-view window. After some time kayaking and hiking proved a disaster. Our room wasn’t ready But the best views were from our balco- in the scenic parks of southern Whidbey until 40 minutes after check-in time, and ny, furnished with teak armchairs and a Island, we again turned north. We spent a no one escorted us to it. The dramatic color table. Each morning, we wrapped ourselves few hours in Deception Pass State Park and scheme of turquoise, black and lustrous in blankets and sipped coffee while the sun then took the ferry from nearby Anacortes, beige was eye-catching, but the room’s two rose from behind the Cascades. The distant threading our way through the San Juan windows faced an unremarkable street, mountain range looked like a ragged tear Islands, a sensationally scenic archipelago and one was blocked by a permanent swag in the blazing orange sky. dotted with enviable vacation homes. of drapery. Thick dust covered electrical The inn has a small and expensive spa On San Juan Island itself, the town of cords and outlets. Dust also covered the (temporarily closed for renovations) over- Friday Harbor has become quite touristy, crystals of the sconces in the bath, where I looking the water, available by appointment perhaps because of its direct connection discovered residue from a previous guest only, but its main amenity is its restaurant, by high-speed catamaran with Seattle. on the makeup mirror. helmed by chef Matt Costello. There we Langley has a better selection of boutiques The club lounge was little better. feasted on nine beautifully presented and art galleries. Nevertheless, Friday The complimentary sparkling wine from courses. My favorites included an aromatic Harbor House, perched on a hill over- Washington was fine, but I was less pleased dish of smoked duck with blackberries, looking the marina and ferry dock, is a with the picked-over buffet and the water and green peppercorn served delightful base from which to explore the dispenser handle repaired with duct tape. under a cloche filled with “bourbon barrel rest of the island. I stopped recommending At checkout, a front desk staffer looked duly smoke,” and melt-in-your-mouth sablefish the 23-room property a few years ago, but distressed to hear about our stay, and she with beans, onions and coriander sprouts after a change in ownership in 2015 and a removed $77 from our bill. Most generous. topped with a custard crisp. Creative wine thorough renovation last year, I decided it pairings, including an unfiltered Oregon merited a second look. sped away from The Nines and headed

north into Washington. At Olympia, we Clockwise: Kayak view of Whidbey Island, and bed and deck of our room at The Inn at Langley / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER I forked west onto U.S. 101, weaving a path between the forested mountains of Olympic National Park and the Hood Canal, which is dotted with small towns and old fishing piers. The magnificent scenery made the four-hour drive to the old blufftop city of Port Townsend feel all too short. A 20-minute car ferry ride deposited us on Whidbey Island, a landmass shaped rather like an ear. On the north side of the lobe is Langley, a delightful town of art galleries and seafood restaurants. On the edge of downtown, The Inn at Langley offers a world-class restaurant and 28 accommodations with views of the Saratoga Passage. Like a plush bed- and-breakfast, The Inn at Langley does not provide all the services of a luxury hotel. The front desk isn’t staffed 24 hours a day, though there is an after-hours emergency number. And room service is not available. If you’re willing to forgo such ameni- ties, The Inn at Langley makes for a very comfortable base from which to sightsee. If possible, reserve one of the two Cottages, the Saratoga Suite or a corner room. Having waited too long to make our plans, we ended up with a standard guest room. Pine-log

DECEMBER 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 View from Ray’s Café / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER The friendly young woman at the front turnips, savory charred red-leaf lettuce desk offered to help with our luggage and and briny capers. We also tried dinner at showed us to our Harbor View room, the the well-regarded Coho Restaurant a short only category I recommend besides the walk away, but both of us wished we’d dined Partial View Suite. Request a high floor, as again at Friday Harbor House instead. most rooms overlook the popular restau- After a kayaking excursion and a hike rant’s patio. When enjoying the vistas from to the top of Mount Grant, we returned to the Juliet balcony of our second-floor room, urban life, spending a few nights in Seattle. we stood perhaps just 15 feet above the There the Inn at the Market had also people at the nearest table and could hear undergone a renovation. The 76-room hotel every word of their conversation. has doorstep access to Seattle’s premier Inside, the room looked fresh and attraction, Pike Place Market, and many of SEATTLE RESTAURANTS stylish, done in a palette of white, yellow the rooms have views of Elliott Bay. WITH A VIEW and charcoal. Curvy gray armchairs We had wait-listed ourselves for an added some midcentury modern chic, accommodation with a full water view, and a headboard of gold-toned plywood but only a Partial Water View Room was ith a hilly topography and a coastal setting, panels provided an edgy touch. Alas, the available. The pleasant front desk staffer WSeattle has numerous restaurants offering memorable views. The best continues to be my gas fireplace facing the bed threw out too gave us her favorite one, she said, and it longtime recommendation of Canlis, overlooking much heat for use on a summer evening. did have an appealing corner location. One Lake Union and the distant Cascades. But on this A jetted tub divided the bedroom from the floor-to-ceiling bay window overlooked an most recent visit, I tried two others, serving two granite vanity, next to a shower stall clad unremarkable city street, but another had a different styles of seafood. in oversize white subway tiles. view of Elliott Bay and the distant Olympic After sundowners on the patio, we Mountains. The bright shower-only bath, Ray’s Café moved to the restaurant’s lively interior for tiled in white, had excellent lighting around Located above the more formal Ray’s Boathouse, dinner. Our waiter offered articulate wine the single vanity. this restaurant is an ideal choice for lunch on a recommendations, likely because he had The jewel of the Inn at the Market’s sunny day. Its terrace has unobstructed views of once managed a winery in the Willamette amenities is its guests-only roof terrace, the Olympic Mountains across Puget Sound. We Valley. I loved the Iris Vineyards Pinot with an array of tables and lounge chairs opted for a window table inside, to avoid the cool Noir. It paired well with both a grilled-corn overlooking the Pike Place Market sign, the autumn breeze. I loved my plump Mediterranean salad with arugula, tomatoes, cilantro and large Ferris wheel at Pier 57 and Elliott Bay mussels (raised nearby at Taylor Shellfish Farms), peaches, as well as some perfectly prepared beyond. The hotel’s Café Campagne serves bathed in a rich and spicy Thai-style broth of wild salmon with slightly bitter baby a limited menu to the terrace. Our flutes coconut milk and red curry. And the delicious local sablefish (black cod) had delicate and moist Clockwise: Patio and room at Friday Harbor House, and view from Deception Pass State Park / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER flesh glazed in sake kasu, accompanied by grilled bok choy, honey-soy sauce and scallion oil. 6049 Seaview Avenue NW. Tel. (206) 782-0094.

Sushi Kashiba This highly regarded sushi restaurant opened in Pike Place Market in late 2015. One of its windows overlooks the iconic red neon “Public Market” sign, as much a symbol of Seattle as the Space Needle. (Most tables lack this view, alas.) Nightly crowds come to try the sushi of Shiro Kashiba, who trained with Jiro Ono, the Tokyo chef highlighted in the documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” We opted for the Peak menu, which included an appetizer, a salad, 13 pieces of nigiri, four pieces of a roll, miso soup and sweet tamago (egg) for dessert. The sushi itself was clearly of high quality and unimpeachably fresh. Still, I left unimpressed. On the first plate of nigiri, the chef had been generous with the wasabi, which obscured the subtlety of the fish. On the second plate, I especially looked forward to the aburi (flame-seared) fatty tuna, but it was more cooked than seared. For all the hype, the sushi here is just a notch above average. 86 Pine Street, Suite 1. Tel. (206) 441-8844.

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2017 of Champagne arrived in nine minutes, labneh (strained yogurt) and haricots verts. from key downtown attractions. A return- and it was a pleasure to sip them as we I also took advantage of the hotel’s ing traveler should consider it, however, watched the ferries and container ships relationship with the Olympic Athletic because it provides access to a not heavily cutting through the bay. Club, a huge, rambling gym in an old build- touristed neighborhood with a wealth of Much as we enjoyed our stay at the ing next door with a large swimming pool. stylish bars, boutiques, restaurants and Inn at the Market, I found myself wishing Hotel guests have complimentary access breweries. Nowadays I often enjoy staying we had booked at the Four Seasons two to its facilities and most fitness classes. outside the center of a favorite city, because blocks away. A full-service hotel, it has The Hotel Ballard is not ideal for a I feel as though I’m getting to know an old similarly spectacular views, a glamorous first visit to Seattle, because of its distance friend all over again. H pool overlooking the bay and a proper spa. But I had few regrets about trying out Clockwise: Lobby-lounge, and sitting area and bedroom of our Luxury Suite at Hotel Ballard / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER the Hotel Ballard, a 29-room boutique property tucked into a gentrifying neigh- borhood about five miles northwest of downtown. Numerous trendy bars and restaurants line Ballard Avenue NW on either side of the hotel, and a surprising number of craft breweries are within walking distance, including the brand-new California-based Lagunitas and popular Stoup, among others. The Hotel Ballard occupies a new building, but it has plenty of character. Teardrops of glass dangled from unusual antlerlike chandeliers in the lobby, candles illuminated the adjacent library-lounge in the evening and behind the front desk was a giant print of a lion defeated by a colony of rabbits. There was no valet or bellman, but the smartly dressed woman who checked us in helped with our luggage after we rolled the bags inside. Our Luxury Suite had gunmetal-gray walls, but floor-to-ceiling windows ensured that it remained bright. A striking sofa upholstered in gray and gold velvet damask surmounted by a gold-framed oval mirror HOTELS AT A GLANCE centerpieced the living room, but the A90 attractive bedroom hewed to silver, with THE INN AT LANGLEY LIKE The magnificent views from our balcony; the Michelin star-quality restaurant; the easy walking distance to mirrored nightstands and a tall padded the center of town; our woodburning fireplace. DISLIKE Our tiny closet; the limited service; the lack of privacy on headboard in lustrous pewter. To one side, the balconies; the worn fabric on some of our chair cushions. GOOD TO KNOW Rooms 16, 26, 36 and 46 occupy a Juliet balcony overlooked Ballard Avenue the most private corner of the inn. Consider timing your stay to have dinner at Orchard Kitchen (open Thursday through Saturday) and/or the Roaming Radish’s gastropub (open Wednesday through Friday). King Guestroom, NW; on the other was an attractive bath $360; Saratoga Suite, $665. 400 First Street, Langley, Washington. Tel. (360) 221-3033. innatlangley.com with a large freestanding tub backed by a giant mirror. The separate shower had FRIDAY HARBOR HOUSE A92 predictable but clean subway tiles. Though LIKE The mesmerizing harbor and marina views; the warm and helpful staff; the commendable restaurant; the fresh there was only one sink, the long counter room décor. DISLIKE The proximity of our balcony to the restaurant patio. GOOD TO KNOW Rather than dining at of swirling white marble gave us plenty of Coho Restaurant, consider instead Duck Soup Inn (open Thursday through Sunday), which the new owners recently space for toiletries. Sliding wooden barn revamped. Harbor View Room, $350; Partial View Suite, $400. 130 West Street, Friday Harbor, Washington. Tel. (360) 378-8455. fridayharborhouse.com doors divided the rooms from one another. The hotel’s popular ground-floor HOTEL BALLARD A91 restaurant, Stoneburner, has a warm, LIKE The chic, edgy design; the complimentary access to the adjacent athletic club and pool; the location in the eclectic décor. I enjoyed everything we midst of Ballard Avenue NW’s independent restaurants and breweries. DISLIKE The only breakfast option avail- had on the Mediterranean-inflected menu, able before 10 a.m. was very casually delivered (i.e., in a paper bag) from a nearby café; the lack of a valet or bellman. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel’s roof terrace is often closed for private events. Luxury Suite, $350; Courtyard including a crunchy salad of snap peas, Suite, $400. 5216 Ballard Avenue NW, Seattle, Washington. Tel. (206) 789-5012. hotelballardseattle.com lemon, parsley, pecorino sardo cheese and almonds, and a main course of moist, preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. A Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on these and all of our Northwest recommendations. Sentinel (89), brick-pressed chicken with tart herbed The Heathman Hotel (87), The Nines (84) and Inn at the Market (89) were not up to the required standard.

DECEMBER 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD THE GIFT OF TRAVEL

here are some well-organized people of my Tacquaintance who begin thinking about suitable presents for the following year as soon as the holidays are over. And by the end of June, their task is virtually complete. Personally, I have absolutely nothing in common with these paragons of planning. When the festivities are less than a week away, I generally succumb to a feeling of panic. At that point, one of my preferred ways out of the crisis is to give Andrew Harper memberships as gifts. This may seem rather unimaginative of me, but I’m pleased to say,

Seating with views of the Saratoga Passage at The Inn at Langley, Washington / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER they’re invariably well-received. Over the years, Andrew Harper has expanded to a point where we offer an unrivaled range of products, services and benefits. The Hideaway Report remains NEW AND NOTEWORTHY the most reliable and authoritative source of information about luxury travel. And this is because we continue to travel anonymously and Aman Comes to Manhattan to pay full rates in order to deliver independent Aman resorts have been beloved by Andrew Harper members for more than 25 years. and unbiased reviews. (It is a source of constant The original properties were small, exquisite retreats in Asia. Lately, however, the amazement to me that it is practically the only group has expanded to include city hotels, the first of which opened in Tokyo in 2014. travel publication that continues to adhere This trend looks to continue with the opening of Aman New York in 2020. The new to these principles.) In addition to being a urban resort will be located in Manhattan’s famous 26-story Crown Building, which compendium of the 1,000 best hotels and resorts has stood at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street since 1921. The property will in the world, The Andrew Harper Collection is have 83 rooms and suites. The finances of the development will be underpinned by 20 a unique repository of travel wisdom. And our residences, one of which is likely to be priced in excess of $100 million. In addition to website continues to expand exponentially, a three-story spa, with an 80-foot indoor swimming pool surrounded by fire pits and with an ever-increasing number of stories, as daybeds, the Aman New York will have a jazz club, a cigar bar and a wine library. well as dramatic slideshows and videos. Also, membership brings with it a remarkable range Tuscan Family Retreat of valuable benefits, including room upgrades, free nights and spa credits. So I urge you to Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco is known to many Andrew Harper members as a glamorous follow my example: Andrew Harper memberships 23-suite Tuscan resort, owned by fashion mogul Massimo Ferragamo. Spread across a make ideal gifts for family and friends, as well 5,000-acre estate, it even boasts a private 18-hole golf course designed by Tom Weiskopf. as for clients and colleagues. Travel transforms The property also offers a number of farmhouse villas, which are particularly suitable people’s lives. Give the gift of travel this coming for families or small groups of friends. These have recently been augmented by the holiday season. Call (866) 831-4314, or visit addition of Villa Agresto, located amid its own vineyard. The house offers five double AndrewHarper.com/go/gift. bedrooms, plus a stunning infinity pool with a view of Montalcino, Siena and Pienza. This month sees the publication of updates to Cambridge Hotel Restored The Andrew Harper Collection guides to Central & Cambridge is the prettiest city in England. Even alumni of Oxford will sometimes Eastern Europe and Asia. Each book contains our hotel recommendations, regional notebooks, admit, grudgingly, that this is indeed so. In recent years, however, Oxford has had one touring maps and favorite restaurants. Books are advantage over its great rival: an exceptional hotel in the city center, namely the Old shipped to premier members and are also for sale Bank Hotel on High Street. Now its seems that Cambridge too may be able to boast a at andrewharper.com/store/harper-collection. property potentially of the Harper standard. The University Arms is housed within an 1834 building overlooking a 25-acre green in the middle of the city and is scheduled to reopen at the beginning of 2018 following a $105 million renovation. The project has been overseen by architect John Simpson, who has previously worked on restoration projects at both Buckingham and Kensington palaces.

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 4214 Medical Parkway, Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2017 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.