# 14 27 October - 2 November 2000 20 pages Rs 20

FACES OF BHAKTAPUR 9,10,11 State of the State 2 Sports 17 From the Nepali Press 6 Off the Beaten Trek19 Economic Sense 8 Under My Hat 20

EXCLUSIVE

CK LALLALCK ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ CK○○○○○ LALLALCK Court martial he first to be worshipped, as usual, Twenty-eight officers from the Royal was the laddoo-loving, Nepal Army’s UN peacekeeping elephant-headed Ganesh, force in southern Lebanon are as the five days of facing general court martial for TYampanchak kicked off on Tuesday. LetLet therethere bebe lightlight allegedly selling ammunition to The next day was devoted to that air- your prayers of tamasoma jyotirgamaya Islamic Hizbollah and Amaal borne scavenger, the crow, which this to lead you from darkness to light. militants. Apparently this wasn’t the week were feasting on all the uncol- In the brave new world of trium- lected garbage littering the city streets. phant capitalism, everyone is an first time: earlier Nepali officers had Thursday was Dog Day in the morn- ‘Economic Man’, a Vaishya. Just like sold UN rations and a generator to ing, while offerings were made to the original religious antecedents of the rebels. The Nepali weekly, Jana Laxmi, the Goddess of Fortune, in the Christmas are covered by modern Aastha, which broke the story last evening. Friday is Cow Day, and then commercialisation, so it is with Tihar. week, hinted at a cover-up and comes the turn of the bull. Tihar will From virtual firecrackers on the named important officers. The army end on Sunday with sisters venerating Internet to Diwali greetings on satellite has made no official comment on their brothers. With that the festival channels, the original message of Tihar the scam or the court martial season that began nearly a month ago is lost in this blaze of consumerism. proceedings. See: From the Nepali will finally come to an end in most Good fortune is translated into wealth, Press. …...... ….. pg 6 parts of the country. and the implication is that money can There are variations in the way buy you happiness. Tihar is celebrated in different parts of So we open up our dhukutis and Nepal. A day before Laxmi Puja, for paint Laxmi’s little feet from the door Two ordinances practitioners of Ayurvedic medicine, it to the vault. Greed is glorious, and, Government sources confirmed two is Dhanbantari Day, when they bow to with globalisation, ostentatious ordinances have been forwarded to their founder in reverence. The displays of wealth are no longer the palace for royal assent. One business community in the tarai considered in bad form. Egged on by envisages the setting up of a celebrates the same day as Dhanteras cable, the new creed is: it’s no use Regional Administrator in each of when families buy a piece of jewellery, having it unless you can flaunt it. Thus or at least a metal utensil, to mark the the rush at jewellery shops, department the five development regions, and occasion. The day of Diwali is also stores, illegal cracker vendors in the the other the setting up of a when some business communities close by-lanes of Asan and the gambling paramilitary Armed Police Force. their accounting year and open new dens of Gyaneswor and Maharajgunj, Both laws have been in the making ledgers by imprinting a yellow swastika not to mention all those casinos in the for some time now, but the process on deep red cloth-covers. Friday is also city where all you need to do to get in gathered momentum after the Mha Puja, the day of self-worship for This Tihar, let us light a lamp rather is pretend to be an Indian. Maoist strike on Dunai last month. the Newar community which also The form is prominent, but does celebrates its New Year (the 1120th) on than curse the darkness. the substance of Tihar survive? The that day. On Brother’s Day (Sunday), best time to reflect upon that question Melamchi Kayasthas of the tarai worship their Latter-day traditions of Tihar the day it is lit at the start of is this week, when expensive sweet ancestor Lord Chitragupta, considered include the official sanction of gam- Yampanchak, it keeps burning till all packets oust sel-roti, dry fruits Kathmandu is running out of water, to be the ledger-keeper of Yama—the bling. Nepal imports nearly Rs 50 festivities come to an end. Truly, Tihar challenge guavas from the garden, but this is due more to God of Fate. It is also the only day million worth of playing cards every is a festival of lights: from the small madals make way for electric guitars in mismanagement when Rani Pokhari in the centre of year, and most of them are used up this mustard oil lamps in tiny terracotta the deusi groups, and people go for and under- Kathmandu is open to the public. week. Even women, traditionally barred cups to designer candles and colourful extravagance in a big way even in a utilisation of Diwali, as it is called in India, is from gambling, play their hands with electric bulbs that is the rage of the festival as religious as the tarai’s existing sup- primarily a religious festival. Whereas modest stakes. In the eastern and upper middle classes. celebration of Tihar in Nepal has taken on a socio- central tarai, celebrations continue till All life is said to be composed of Chhath. plies than a Eating OutOutEating real shortage. cultural and family-oriented aspect in Chhath Pooja when the Sun is elabo- five basic elements—earth, water, air, But all is not Nepal. The deusi and bhailo chanting lost, and even that in Kathmandu Upgrading ex- rately worshipped in its female form as fire and sky. They owe their origin to from house to house has an almost Mother Goddess Chhathi Mai. This the sun, which is the representation of what is lost is not page 1212page isting capacity Halloween-like trick-or-treat quality to four-day festival involves fasting, the Supreme Being. The earthen lamp lost forever. Like a and expanding it. Then there is the legend about King penance and then feasting. It is said is worshipped as a miniature symbol of potter’s wheel, change goes and then antiquated water mains would be Bali, who was so generous that all who that Chhath is the only time when even the life-giving sun. An earthen lamp is comes back in cycles. The realisation adequate for now. But at the rate went to see him returned with all a setting sun is celebrated for its glory, the product of all the five elements— that culture is beyond the realm of Kathmandu is growing, the Valley wishes fulfilled. He was tricked into since the cycle of birth starts with the panchatatwa. A potter takes raw consumerism seems to have dawned will need extra water from outside. giving up his kingdom through the death. In a sense, then the setting sun is earth, mixes it with water, turns it on upon many. The little terracotta diyo is The Asian Development Bank is to machinations of Devas and their chief even more important than the rising his wheel, lets it dry in the air under the staging a comeback. It’s all a matter of give the final green light for the conspirator, the wily Bishnu. It is said one. sky and then bakes it in fire. When that keeping faith. Darker the night, $450 million project next month. But that during Tihar, Bali gets his king- In all these festivities, for five to six earthen lamp arrives in your puja room, brighter burns the wick. May its dom back for five days and that is what flickering flame inspire us to live in it will take at least six years for the days in the hills and for nearly two it has already passed through the the deusi singers chant. Meanwhile, weeks in tarai, one single leitmotif process of life and death. It is now the harmony with the five basic elements first drop of water to reach some historians say they have traced common to all celebrations is the symbol of eternity, of immortality and of life. Let us light a lamp, rather than Kathmandu. …...... pg 4 Bali as a Magar king in Central Nepal. humble earthen lamp—the diyo. From of light. It is capable of listening to curse the darkness. EASYEASYEASY TIMESTIMESTIMES Itís never been easier to subscribe to Nepali Times. Just dial this number and leave your address. 543337 You pay upon delivery of the first issue. 543337 2 EDITORIAL 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES

WET DREAMS Whenever water shortage hits the Kathmandu Valley, which is most of the time, the subject of Melamchi invariably comes up. Melamchi is whispered in hushed tones, as if it is manna from heaven. Successive gangs of politicians since 1990 have sold Melamchi as the panacea to the capital’s perennial water problem. Melamchi has already entered the vocabulary of Kathmandu’s socialites as a synonym for water. “Can I have a glass of melamchi, please”, or “Make mine Scotch with melamchi”. Halfway through pontificating on the Valley’s water crisis, politicians on the podium reach for a glass of melamchi. With a population reaching nearly a million and a half, Kathmandu needs 150 million litres of water a day. Present supply is officially 80 million litres a day, al- though unofficially it is known that His Majesty’s Government’s undertaking, the Nepal Water Supply STATE OF THE STATE by CK LAL Corporation, pumps only 60 percent of that amount. Leakage and pilferage is conservatively estimated at 40 percent. That means a shortfall of a whopping 110 million litres a day. No wonder some neighbourhoods Comrade Nepal pedals to work are on the verge of rioting. Taps are now dry all year around, you don’t have to Petrol had only two uses in my village: as fuel for a Chinese wait for April. If it wasn’t for groundwater, Kathmandu would have been uninhabitable. It may soon be anyway lighter, or as balm for aching muscles after a hard day’s because shallow tubewell water is now contaminated work. with sewage and chemicals. For the short term, the hat a relief it was to see percent of total energy consumption, was and cry over fuel price hike for two opposition leader Madhav met by fossil fuels. reasons: the cost of fuel constitutes only WWW Nepal cycling to Singh The price of fossil fuel affects us all in a small portion of their total household Durbar. For the people of his constitu- one way or another: the newsprint on expense, the rich are also aware that a ency in Rautahat District, bicycles, which you are reading these words is government (in any Third World together with rickshaws and ox-carts, are transported laboriously up from Birgunj country) can do little about fuel price the main modes of transport. But I was in smoke-belching diesel trucks. But the hikes. dismayed to discover that it was just a impact of a hike on diesel (or even It’s people like me in the middle- protest prank: Comrade Nepal will not kerosene) prices on a subsistence farmer class who are hurt most. The seven be bicycling to work every day. A day in Rumjatar is marginal. Despite the percent rise in bus fare and the later the UML Secretary General was claim that kerosene is a poor man’s fuel increase in kerosene prices hits us being chauffeured to work in a black and needs state subsidy, the fact is that it badly. The poor may manage with their limousine. is only the urban-dwellers and a section of three-litre quota of subsidised kero- Every time prices of petroleum rural elite who rely on fossil fuels for their sene—if they can afford to buy even products go up, symbolism takes over the daily needs. For the rest, kerosene is that much. My peers in the middle class streets of Kathmandu. There are rallies something that you need to fuel your tuki will probably brand me a traitor for with empty jerry cans, traffic is held-up, in the hills or dibiya in tarai and if it’s saying this, but protests over the fuel bandhs are enforced, protest price hike should be held Valley’s water supply can be substantially improved by letters are handed over, the outside OPEC headquar- demand management, supply management and reduc- prime minister and his cabinet ters in Vienna, not in tion of leakage. Our investigation in this issue shows colleagues are burnt in effigy Kathmandu. The that the 6- and 8-inch Rana-era pipes of the Tri-Bhim with much fanfare for the Marxist-Leninists should and Bir Dhara networks are still the mainstay of the benefit of press photographers. call an Austria-wide Valley’s water distribution system. Many of the storage Consumer activists issue angry bandh, burn in effigy reservoirs on the outskirts of the town are nearly a statements. And then things get Hugo Chavez, the hundred years old, but they are still functioning. It is the back to normal throughout the Venezuelan OPEC latter-day tubewell pumps that have broken down and kingdom. People have come to Rambo. He has more to not been repaired. take fuel price hikes as a fact of do with the rise of Production engineers told us widening the intakes on life. And protests are a kerosene prices than MIN BAJRACHARYA the Nallu, Mahadev, and other streams that flow down to diversion to be tolerated as a Girija. join the Bagmati, doubling the capacity of existing diversion from the dull routine The lesson for Nepal reservoirs, adding new ones with small 20-metre dams of everyday life. Three-wheelers and the world is to lessen on the higher reaches of Bishnumati, Kitni, Nakkhu and drive past blaring a call for a our dependence on fossil other kholas, and replacing the antique 8-inch pipes jerry can rally, very few people fuels. If only the transpor- with bigger trunk lines would easily take care of bother to look up. not available, or if it’s too expensive, you tation and diesel cartels would let go of Kathmandu Valley water supply for now. Cut leaks and Why don’t Nepalis care too much blow it off and go to bed early. No big their iron grip on state policy, we pilferage by half and you can boost supply by a further about fuel prices? A facile answer is: deal. should be using this opportunity to look 15 percent. fatalism. That vapid sense of apathy that When Rajiv Gandhi imposed an at a fast east-west electric railway along This is the tragedy of modern Nepal: we’d rather afflicts us all. Prices are beyond our undeclared economic blockade on Nepal the tarai, connected to the hills with build monumental follies than improve efficiency first. control, so we accept them. Decades in 1989, he had expected us go down on cargo cable car systems. All powered by After all, monumental follies carry monumental kick- under dictatorship has further ingrained our knees and say we’re sorry, please send the energy of our flowing rivers and backs, efficiency is only good for the nation. this fatalism into the Nepali psyche. The us our kerosene. Well, guess what, Nepalis not the liquefied remains of prehistoric Even so, we have to admit that the way Kathmandu is sense of hope that you can effect a change held out for more than a year. The reason rainforests. bursting at the seams, the springs on the valley rim are is not there. But the sense of resignation was that most Nepalis didn’t use fossil The government certainly needs to not going to be enough in the long term. (Come to think of a sullen population is not the real fuels, and those who did simply went back do much more than it is presently of it, with a capacity of only 170 million litres a day in its reason for this lack of interest. to cow-dung patties. For the urban users, doing to keep a check on spiralling first phase, Melamchi itself may not be a long-term More important are the sources of the government flew in kerosene from prices. The opposition can help by not solution either). Source augmentation by trans-basin energy used in Nepal. Total energy Dhaka in Royal Nepal Airlines jets bringing the economy to a halt by transfer seems to be the only way out for the future. But consumption in the country was about converted into tankers. planning bandhs. As it is, prices are on as our politicians have now painted themselves into 292 million GJ in 1995/1996. Nearly As for petrol, it had only two uses in fire. Protests simply end up adding such a tight corner by raising public expectations of 90 percent of it came from biomass my village in those days—either you scarce fuel to the inferno. Cool it Melamchi it would be suicidal for them to back out now. sources such as fuelwood (80 percent), needed it for your Chinese lighter, or you comrades, and make riding bicycles to Nepali Times is published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd animal dung (6 percent—another reason wanted some as a balm to apply upon your work an enduring habit. It’s good for Mailing Inaddress: the GPOeven Box longer 7251 Kathmandu term, Nepalthere is really no other to keep worshipping our cows and bulls) body when your muscles ached from a Editor:alternative Kunda Dixit to reducing Desk editors: this Deepak crippling Thapa, Samuel urban Thomas pressure on the economy, and even better for the [email protected]’s over-centralised capital. The growth of this and agricultural residue (4 percent). hard day’s work in the rice-fields. environment. Marketing,valley circulation is turning and subscriptions: malignant. (01) To543333-7 protect Fax: (01)its 521013unique heri- Only about one percent of it was The Nepali elite which depends on [email protected], its precious www.nepalitimes.comecosystem and its astonishing natural electricity, notwithstanding all the petroleum products is a small and Printedbeauty, at Jagadamba urban Press pressure (01) 521393 has to be reduced. And doing hydropower hype. The rest, only about 9 pampered group and does not make a hue that will automatically take care of water demand. VIEWPOINT 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 3

SAMRASAMRASAMRAT RANRANT AAA

SAMRASAMRA○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○T RANRANT AA continuation of politics by other n all the cacophony of spin means” then an insurgency too generated by political factions can be called “politics by other Iin Nepal’s rambunctious means”. The insurgents’ goal is to democracy, it is often difficult to force political change through tell what it is that the Maoists are If war is the continuation of politics by other means, then an BETWEEviolence. The strategic centre of N really after and why they have insurgency is politics by other means. gravity here is the competition taken the path of violence. In for the hearts and minds of the fact, the lack of a clear consensus people. To be effective, the in identifying the true nature government’s counter-insurgency and gravity of the threat posed by POLITICstrategy must therefore take it to S the Maoist movement has been a the people through political major deterrent to finding a action rather than by deploying solution or agreeing on effective the army. If the military is used, counter measures. the following components are For their part, the Maoists ANDessential: WAR have benefitted from government • The army need only deploy inaction brought about by partially to provide security aimless, and often ignorant, and ensure peace by keeping political debate. The result is them safe from insurgent there for us all to see: political violence and activities. violence, terrorism, and anarchy • It should engage in the in areas affected by the Maoists, delivery of basic services to and in the rest of the country, restore the people’s faith and fear and uncertainty. confidence in the The Maoist crisis is in an government. “insurgency” phase. An insur- • It should assist in training a gency is the refusal of the people well-disciplined, and highly who are indigenous to an area to motivated police force. actively cooperate with, or • It should defeat the guerrilla express support for the current forces through selective and authority figures. An insurgency measured use of force. The can exist in many forms and each guiding principle should be presents its own unique challenge that force is a means and not to governments that want to grows, unleashing frustration, activity. So, the end in itself, and, when retain legitimacy and political discontent and anger. And these 1998 saw the launch of Opera- applied, should be decisive. control. The government has are precisely the ingredients that tion Kilo Sierra 1 and subse- questions lie Military operations are not labelled the Maoists as terrorists give rise to political violence. It is quently KS 2 and 3 in the hidden in the mindset of conducted in isolation; their because they have adopted by now generally accepted that following years. It is clear this politicians and political com- oriented and effective entity, key basic intent is to provide support violence as a means to achieve Nepal’s Maoist movement was approach did not work, and only plexes, in their paranoia, and in decisions like defining the role of and credibility to government political ends. This is nothing born under these very conditions. ended up adding fuel to the fire the ruthless political intrigues of the Royal Nepal Army have been actions. The Royal Nepal Army new; most governments resort to Initially, the government by alienating the people with its Nepal’s post-1990 polity. unnecessarily delayed. Ultimately, can offer such support, but it calling violent opposition by the underestimated the strength and heavy-handedness. Once the government realised political leaders, through the cannot reach and destroy the core catch-all label—terrorism. the resolve of the Maoists, and In hindsight, the question for the futility of trying to eradicate medium of the NSC and of the Maoist insurgency, which In Nepal’s case, calling the treated them like a bunch of governments that have ruled the Maoist insurgency using a preferably with the appointment lies in the sphere of ideology and Maoists terrorists oversimplifies bandits. This led to a misleading since 1996 is why they chose to singular line of operation, it of a National Security Adviser, political activities. The use of the issue. Terror tactics, such as appraisal of the situation and a use only the police to quell the made significant adjustments to have to take up responsibility for: force and the military has to be a those used by the Maoists, are series of flawed responses. problem in the first place? The its plan of action. This now • coordinating crisis specific line of operation within recognised worldwide as an Operation Romeo in 1997 was a misconceived notion that includes the recent drive to management; the government’s overall counter- element of political insurgency. heavy-handed overreaction which deployment of the Royal Nepal mobilise multipartisan backing • identifying and assessing insurgency strategy. The primary Unlike terrorist violence, which used only the police to curb the Army would endanger Nepal’s for dialogue, and the much- short-, medium-, and long- focus of the government must, targets the public, insurgencies movement. However, an undue nascent democracy and empower vaunted economic package for term threats to national however, remain in the political focus on government targets. Real emphasis on the use of counter- the king remains a major Maoist-affected areas. At least the security; arena. terrorism is an inappropriate force clouded the key political, mistake, probably perpetrated by government has given up its • facilitating intelligence and means of waging an insurgent economic, and social realities, hidden hands. Why was the earlier intransigence and shown analysis to political decision (Samrat Rana is the war if the real goal of the playing right into the hands of the military, decidedly the trained more flexibility and vigour. -makers and helping them pen-name of a military insurgent is to actually win an Maoists who gained from the experts in the business of Nevertheless, even these ini- formulate responses; analyst.)analyst.)analyst.) objective, rather than simply public backlash against the state. counter-insurgency, kept on the tiatives are plagued by factions • passing on NSC’s directives engage in combat. The Maoists responded by sidelines? Why was no constitu- jostling for credit and lack a and guidance to government A democratic government is starting a pattern of escalating tional or legislative action taken long-term strategy and vision. departments; and supposed to respond to changes in violence, and spreading their base to ban the activities of a group of The National Security • monitoring and evaluating the needs of its people. When areas. Again, successive govern- avowedly undemocratic and Council (NSC) is the the implementation process. change does not come easily since ments refused to acknowledge the openly lawless elements who say government’s pivotal body to deal those in power are preoc-cupied gravity of the situation and stuck they want to overthrow the with crises such as these. But as Insurgency is a zone between with retaining that power and to the conceptually defective plan country’s constitutional monar- political hindrances prevented politics and war. If war, as little else, public dissatisfaction to crush the spreading guerrilla chy? The answers to these the NSC from being an action- Clausewitz declared, is “the LETTERS WHOSE ARMY? dent or of the English mentioned in “Upwardly of negative Nepali men- I have been following the crown. The Constitution a power independent of pays for the armed Mobile” (#13). The Belgian tality to imply ulterior interesting debate in clearly states that the king legislative control, since forces? It is paid for from government loan that motives to our Prime Nepali Times about the shall operate and use the as a constitutional mon- the coffers of the state, Nepal Telecommunication Minister’s stopover in constitutional ambiguity Royal Nepal Army on the arch he has to act on the which is furbished by the Corporation (NTC) re- Belgium. The government regarding who is in recommendation of advice of an elected prime taxes paid by the Nepali ceived recently is not for a of Belgium has been charge of the army National Defence Council. minister. The Constitution people. village phone network. It is assisting Nepal in the (#11,12). The provision Article 118–(3) states that enjoins that certain acts S Grimaljee for the purchase of tele- telecommunication sector in the Constitution of “The establishment and require the king to ap- Kathmandu phone exchange equip- for the past 20 years. Is it Nepal 1990 regarding management of the Royal proach parliament for ment meant mostly for not natural that our Prime the Royal Nepal Army Nepal Army, and other sanction. HOPE urban areas. Secondly, Minister wants to provides for a National matters relating thereto The National Defence Congratulations, John NTC always makes sure strengthen goodwill Defence Council under shall be as determined as Council, as a subcommit- Child, for writing such a that price of any equip- between the two coun- the chairmanship of the law.” This means that tee of the Council of positive article “New ment purchased, even tries with a brief stopover prime minister with the although the king may Ministers, is a compromise heroes, quiet revolution” with tied loans on bilateral in Belgium? defence minister and the have the power to declare reached during the fram- (#13) on current-day bases, are reasonable. A paper like yours with commander-in- chief as war or peace it is compe- ing of the present consti- Nepal. It is nice to know Per line cost of exchange a new vision should try to members. The tent for parliament to tution. The role of the that there is somebody equipment under the bring a paradigm shift in supreme regulate or control the prime minister as head of out there who thinks that Belgian loan, for instance, journalism and take command of the exercise of such the council of ministers is there is still hope for is less than $50, which is responsibility to inject armed forces is powers. The king’s the most important in the Nepal. one of the lowest in the positive feelings and vested in the role as su- operation of the army. In a [email protected] world. The same equip- emotions in the highly King, but this is preme com- modern democracy there ment recently purchased negative mindset of our far less than mander cannot be a state within a by another SAARC coun- society. Bad news may be those of the cannot be state, unlike in the days of UPWARDLY MOBILE try costs more than $70 good news, but the print American presi- construed as the warlords. After all, who Comments on three points per line. media can also be a Also, it is a typical case powerful tool to brain- wash society. Sugat Ratna Kansakar 4 NATION 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES Melamchi on our minds After much debate and delay, the Asian Development Bank is finally getting ready to approve the Melamchi Project at its board meeting in December. But, even if all goes according to plan, Kathmandu will have to wait another six years for the first

drop of melted snow to arrive at Sundarijal. What do we do till then?

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

some $500 million should be trouble is, most of this rain views. inter-basin transfer possibili- lavished on an over-pampered falls during the monsoon and So Kathmandu’s hapless ties for Kathmandu Valley, capital is not heard anymore, all that needs to be done is to citizens have been forced to but Melamchi is the only no one really asks the scien- store it properly. Present bore for water. And they have feasible one. tists what they think, and no storage capacity is woefully to drill deeper and deeper as Critics of Melamchi say one questions the unquestion- inadequate to meet rising the water table falls because that not enough has been able—wouldn’t it be better to demand, and even if it were, of over-extraction. One done to upgrade the existing just start moving the capital some of the water mains estimate says Kath-mandu’s water collection intakes, the somewhere else, or at least supplying the city were laid average water table has been capacity of the reservoirs on have a systematic plan to nearly 100 years ago and falling by an average of 1.8 the valley rim and expanding relocate key offices and cannot carry enough water to metres a year. Large hotels the diameter of the trunk industries? the network. Add to this the and soft-drink makers have lines feeding the three main Politics and populism take leakage along the way, the drilled deep for geological towns. If this is done, there is over, and the debate is so wastage and pilferage, and it water—and it is all a gift enough water within the mired in slogans that any is not surprising that there is from nature, since there is no valley to take care of demand Nepali hydrologist who says a shortage. “Simply cutting government policy to price for another ten years, they that Kathmandu has enough wastage and pilferage by 50 extraction of this precious say. Differential pricing water, that there is really no percent would alone mean commodity. As Kathmandu’s could ensure that intensive shortage, is regarded as a increasing supply by 15 population grows exponen- users like five-star hotels and crank. Question Melamchi, percent,” one water expert tially, storage of water inside industries will be more frugal and you are anti-develop- told us. He requested ano- the valley alone will not meet with water that is subsidised ment. Kathmandu needs nymity because, working for demand, and there will have for the citizens. about 150 million litres of the government, he doesn’t to be an outside source. The The Melamchi project ran water a day. Out of this, want to be punished for his ADB says it has studied other into another problem that A NEPALI TIMES INVES- turned into a sewer. Water Nepal Water Supply Corpora- nearly derailed it. For once, TIGATIGATIGATIONTIONTION ○○○○○○○○○○○○ shortages have become a year- tion, a public sector under- it had nothing to do with the he best way to understand round phenomenon, not just taking entrusted with the task politicians in Kathmandu but Kathmandu Valley’s limits something that happened in the of quenching the capital’s with donor politics. Tto growth is to regard it not as a dry season. thirst and taking care of its Melamchi has always been a valley at all, but as a plateau. We As taps run dry, the cry for sewer system on a monopoly darling of the Japanese, who should be calling it the Kath- water has become louder and basis, claims that it supplies have worked closely with the mandu Plateau. The terrain on louder. Politicians can’t ignore it about 80 million litres a day. ADB to push the project all sides, including the north, anymore, so they respond with a Out of that 40 percent is lost through. Norway had also plunges to only 800 m above sea one-word mantra: “Melamchi”. in leakage. That means a been involved, and had level before rising again. This Over the years, the river flowing daily shortfall of about 90 preferred the option in which leaves Nepal’s capital high and below this picturesque little million litres. the tunnel bringing the water dry, dependent only on the village on the boundary of the With an annual precipita- would generate 25 MW of rainfall that is trapped by the hills Langtang National Park, 30 km tion of 3,000-3,600 mm, electricity from a powerhouse on its rim. There are no snow-fed directly north of Kathmandu, has there is enough rainfall on at Sundarijal. The Japanese, rivers running through, and with turned into a panacea for the valley rim to fulfil with the ADB, were sharply the population now nearing 1.5 parched Kathmandu. The Kathmandu Valley’s current Confluence of Melamchi Khola and Gohare Khola, and (above left) opposed to this, and insiders million, the valley’s only river has debate about whether or not and future demand. The Melamchi near the intake. in the Melamchi project say

VILLAGE VOICE by DUBBY BHAGAT

Second story. A famous anthropolo- in a place that gist heard of this dreadful change, and considered a fish net determined not to upset the fragility of over a storefront as the Khumbu he went about and studied security enough. its people without disturbing a single The Gita says thing. Then he went back and wrote a change is the only Paradise? Lost? thesis which was widely acclaimed in constant. But even academia. And a hundred anthropologi- the ancient faith Let’s talk of rites of passage, the loss of innocence. Let cal teams followed. They made sugges- from that book is being challenged every

tions, helped the poor and needy, and day, a faith that once bound us. So

○○○○○○○ tomorrow○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ come, we will face it together. generally did good. But the changes, paradises are lost and Eden’s serpents people later said, were not good. The first proliferate as indeed they are forced to. his is a development parable, water. with the water in the morning. So anthropologist should never have written Dr Dhruba Man Shrestha, Nepal’s repeated many times in world They watched as the women of the Hillary and Doig made the first move his thesis because it brought hordes of leading psychiatrist, has to cope with the Thistory in all corners of the world, village carrying pots would walk down to for woman’s lib, for progress, but mostly other researchers. The region’s awesome detritus of change. of how the very act of trying to save a stream in the evening, a water source for compassion. They set up a pump. And enticing beauty became commonplace. So let’s talk of these rites of passage, Shangri-La can spoil it. It is a story so far away that they had to spend the as the first gush of water came into the The media is the message, these days. the loss of innocence. We may not find a about schmaltz, about tree-hugging. It is night there and labour up to their homes village they wandered off, pleased with a Yesteryear’s water pumps and anthro- solution to the problem of a region about how do-gooding does not always job well done. pologists have been replaced by an transformed forever by a STOL airport, deliver the goods. This is a serious story A decade later, when the two overwhelming force as powerful as or a highway, or a village turned into a of the dynamics of change. How to try to chanced by the village again, they found nature’s many moods that created slum by a water-pump. But maybe it will ensure that when change does occur, it is it in shambles. A shantytown had grown change in the past. Television heightens do good for the catalysers of change in under control of the people who are around the place of the little hamlet that expectations, gives us role models and Kathmandu to think about the change being changed, and it is a change for the they had discovered on their previous lures with what we don’t have, but could they bring. Not the immediate difference better, at least slightly. In the sixties, Sir visit. The trees had disappeared, and have. And a cloistered society has they make, but a future typhoon trig- Edmund Hillary and Desmond Doig where fields of flowers once bloomed spawned violence, greed, and envy. The gered by the flap of a butterfly wing here stumbled upon Shangri-La in the there were potato fields. Smoke obscured Internet whisks us to worlds undreamt today. Write to us, and then let tomor- Khumbu region. A beautiful village of the Himalaya. “What happened?” they of, and whose effects are yet to be row come. We will face it together. six homes on a ridge full of conifers, with asked the village elder. “Two white men understood. Admittedly today it’s the the Himalaya looming large and set came many years ago and gave us a elite of Nepal that is privy to most of this amidst fields of flowers. pump,” said the old man. “And since the but there is also a burgeoning middle So Hillary and Doig set up camp to women did not have to sleep at the water class. And there is suddenly the vocal and savour it all, until they noticed a slight source there was population explosion. articulate disenchanted and disfran- glitch in this Eden below Everest, this Then, neighbouring villages came and chised, be they Maosits or “ists” of a paradise called Shangri-La: there was no settled….” number of hues. There are now robbers NATION 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 5 the bank’s mission gave • Establishment of a Too many vehicles

“flimsy reasons” for being regulatory body to control ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Traffic congestion in the Kathmandu Valley is not a against the power generation. tariff adjustments, monitor result of poor management but caused by too many The ADB conducted a study performance of water opera- vehicles, says a government report. With over last year and said the cost tors and protect consumer 154,700 registered vehicles, there’s just enough implications of a longer interests. space for every one of them. So much so, that if all tunnel and a higher intake to • A clearly defined tariff the vehicles were to be lined up on the 740 justify power generation was policy has to be prepared kilometres of road there is in the Valley, there would not cost-effective. In the end, before the loan approval. not be enough standing room for all. probably because of the The Melamchi headworks A government task force formed to assess the uncertainty, no private sector are close to the Langtang carrying capacity of Kathmandu Valley roads has investor was willing to invest National Park, and its access recommended that registrations of small vehicles be in the hydropower portion tunnels are located within the stopped for plying on routes within the Ring Road, and Melamchi became a Shivapuri Watershed and which it says can carry just 28,000 stand-alone water supply Nature Reserve. ADB says it vehicles. project. has mitigation plans to One way to make the roads less crowded would The ADB is the lead address the negative environ- be to phase out old vehicles, Surendra Hamal, agency and the biggest lender mental impact of the tunnels Minister of State for Labour and Transport Manage- to the project, which is and the social effects of the ment said at a press conference last week. However, supported by a consortium of influx of thousands of one direct impact of the government report could be donors that includes the construction workers from the cessation of registration of electric run three Norwegian aid agency, outside. The plan is to ensure wheelers for public transport. NORAD; the Swedish agency, that a minimum water supply SIDA; the Nordic Develop- level will be maintained in

ment Fund (NDF); the the Melamchi for downstream Kamaiyas impatient ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Japanese Bank for Interna- irrigation, water supply, Bonded labourers who were freed by a government tional Cooperation (JBIC); water mill operation and for order on 17 July say they will agitate again to de- the World Bank and the maintaining the habitat of mand speedy rehabilitation. Leaders of two OPEC Fund. aquatic life. A social uplift organisations—the Kamaiya Liberation Struggle The ADB’s final mission programme is also planned Mobilisation Committee (KLSMC) and the Kamaiya was in Kathmandu from 18 for 14 village development Liberation Action Committee—are to meet early next September-4 October to committees (VDCs) in the week for finalise plans for a protest rally to be held appraise the project and Melamchi valley, for which on 6 November. prepare a report for the ADB the project has allocated $5 The plan is to submit memorandums demanding board to discuss. The ADB million. The plan is to ensure speedy registration and rehabilitation of Kamaiyas at loan amounts to $120 that a certain percentage of District Administration Offices in five districts where million, and it will be upon the water tariff paid by the the practice of bonded labour was widespread the endorsement of this that people of Kathmandu will be before the government’s July decision. That would be other donors are expected to made available to the 14 followed by sit-ins and culminate in general strikes in get their approval processes VDCs. ADB has also prepared Kailali, Kanchanpur, Banke, Bardia and Dang dis- underway. a resettlement policy, for tricts. A sit-in is also planned for Bhadrakali, the The base cost of the people displaced by the famous spot to the west of the Singa Durbar, the project as it stands today is tunnel, which is awaiting central secretariat. $338 million. But infrastruc- government approval. The Government officials say the Dasain and Tihar ture projects are notorious Melamchi Board is so con- holidays have delayed identification and registration for cost over-runs and after scious of its image and wary of the freed bonded labourers, which they say would including financing, interest of negative press that they are be completed in about a month’s time. payments, taxes and contin- About 170 million litres a day of water in the process of hiring a gencies for complications in will be diverted through a 26.5 km long public relations consultant. the tunnel drilling activity, Critics of the Melamchi Oil prices spark protests, strikes

tunnel to bring the water to a treatment ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ the total cost comes to $441 project, and there are still A series of protests kicked off by last week’s increase million. The government is plant to be built at Mahankal near some in the woodwork, admit in the price of petroleum products has forced the putting up 25 percent of the Sundarijal. The tunnel will have a cross that the plan for resettlement government to increase the quota of kerosene to be financing, most of which will section of 10 sq metres and will be a and the plough-back of part distributed at subsidised rates. Each family will now be cost for land taxes, duties of the tariffs to the Melamchi get five litres of subsidised kerosene, the Ministry of and interest during construc- major feat of engineering. villagers looks good on paper, Commerce said. tion. but doubt whether future Kerosene is used mainly for lighting in the villages The current design will governments will keep that and for cooking by urban and semi-urban popula- entail the construction of a efficiency of the system. pilferage was cut. Says Vokes: promise. “Nepal is full of tions, mainly from the middle and lower middle low weir and de-sanding Supporters of the project “To bring water to Kath- development refugees who classes. Rationed kerosene is sold at Rs 15.50 per basin on the Melamchi Khola say that although expensive, mandu, water has to be have suffered because the litre while kerosene sells in the open market at Rs 26 just above its confluence with Kathmandu Valley residents conserved and treated as a government didn’t keep its per litre. Ribarma Khola at an altitude will be paying for reliable precious resource.” For a word,” says one activist. The government maintains that price hikes have of about 1,500 m. About 170 water supply just like they final approval by the ADB Besides, what are the people resulted from the upward shift in global oil prices and million litres a day of water pay for electricity. Water board, the government will of Kathmandu going to do till that the rates would be revised should international will be diverted through a tariffs in Kathmandu could have to commit to the follow- 2006? Some of the immedi- prices fall. 26.5 km long tunnel to bring increase to Rs 23 per cubic ing conditionalities: ately do-able activities like All opposition parties have announced protests the water to a treatment metre when Melamchi water • Implementation of a improving the storage capac- against the increase in the price of petroleum prod- plant to be built at Mahankal is piped to homes and Kathmandu valley water and ity and upgrading the mains ucts one of which, announced by a group of nine near Sundarijal. The tunnel neighbourhoods. At present, wastewater strategy should have been incorpo- small communist parties, is to culminate in a two-day will have a cross section of 10 water is sold at a subsidised • Policy on groundwater rated right away, they say. nation-wide general strike on 16-17 November. The sq metres and will be a major rate of Rs 8 per cubic metre, extraction, licensing and Nepal Oil Corporation says it faces a loss of Rs 10 feat of engineering. Although even though the costs in- monitoring per litre of subsidised the new tunnel alignment is volved in supplying it is Rs • Formulation of a Kath- kerosene, which means shorter, geologists involved 16 per cubic metre. Says the mandu valley development that the subsidy burden with the project say it will ADB’s Nepal representative plan—including relocating could be as high as Rs involve boring through Richard Vokes: “Melamchi is more water-consuming 900 million if 40,000 unstable rock and the tunnel a least-cost option, and industries families are to be pro- may actually be more diffi- private management has been • Establishment of an vided the subsidised fuel. cult to construct. brought in to ensure people autonomous Kathmandu Last year NOC supplied The project also has pay for water. Tariffs have to valley water authority 319,158 kilolitres of “downstream” components of be significant to ensure cost (KVWA) by 2002 for water diesel and 298,351 treatment and distribution recovery, otherwise it will be resource management kilolitres of kerosene. once the water arrives in difficult to justify subsidies Kathmandu Valley. The for a rich valley population.” MELAMCHI FINANCING PLAN (IN MILLIONS U$) existing distribution system What will remain to be Fresh influx of Tibetans arrested on 22 October, ADB 120 loan huddled outside the Immigration office will be overhauled to ensure seen is if just charging money at Baneswor. JIBC 52 loan reliable and adequate supply. will make Kathmandu’s Tibetan

A private operator will be water supply dependable and (Japan Bank for International Cooperation) refugees NDF 11 loan ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ hired by 2001 to improve regular and of acceptable operation, management and quality. The argument is that (Nordic Development Fund) There has been a fresh influx of Tibetan refugees NORAD 29 Grant rehabilitation of if it is expensive, people will into Nepal in the past few weeks, which officials say OPEC 14 loan Kathmandu’s existing urban not waste; this would hold is the handiwork of organised groups smuggling SIDA 2 5 50/50 water supply and sewerage water if Kathmandu citizens them into Nepal. The police rounded up 31 Tibetans loan and facilities. One way is to showed the same frugality who had slipped into Nepal on 24 October, just days grant ensure people pay for water about using expensive after it had nabbed another 13. World Bank 8 0 loan they use and improve the electricity, or if electricity On 22 October, police shot and wounded a Nepali HMG 110 national, suspected to be a middleman involved in helping Tibetans cross the border. The accused was 6 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES

Mass court martials being held in groups of five at differ- ○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○ ent army battalions. Now there are CabinetCabinetCabinet NC’s view of the Maoist problem Jana Aastha, 18 October voices for similar action to be initi- Saptahik Bimarsha, 20 October ated against another colonel who is decisionsdecisionsdecisions charged to have raised and misappro- ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ For the first time, the ruling party has made public its views on the Maoist Based on a report published by this Deshanter, 22 October paper some time ago, the Royal Nepal priated $70,000 from servicemen who insurgency. Congress party spokesman Narahari Acharya presented the party’s gave him the money to purchase gold. As a way to curb the Maoist insur- opinion at the 16 October meeting convened by the committee looking for ways Army is getting ready to court martial 55 soldiers at one go. The news story Because this colonel, Rimindranath, is gency, the government has prepared to resolve the problem. The six-part document deals with the problem vis-à-vis the scion of a powerful family, it is ordinances in preparation of the Local constitutional issues, talks and dialogue, deployment of security forces, political, had made public a scandal in which the commanding officer of the unlikely that any action will be Administration (fourth amendment) socio-economic and administrative aspects. Excerpts from the document are as initiated against him. He has just Act and the Armed Police Force Act. follows: Singhanath Battalion, Lt Colonel Rajendra Khadka, had sent 14 returned from Lebanon (37th branch) The administration act reached the Issues related to the Constitution: The Nepali Congress will not and is now attending staff college to cabinet on 19 October after getting the be party to or support any effort or action that would go against the basic soldiers back to Nepal on the charge of selling 2,000 rounds of ammunition prepare to take charge of the necessary approval from the Ministry provisions of the Constitution. The Congress does not have any proposal to Sumsherdal Battalion. of Law. It envisages the appointment of amend the Constitution. The party feels the need to make the present democratic to the Hizbollah and Amal rebel groups during their term of service as a regional administrator and co- institutions more effective by mobilising local governance units through ordinates the work of the army and the decentralisation. part of the UN peacekeeping force in Centre at fault: Lebanon. Of the 14 one committed police. The draft ordinance on the Dialogue:Dialogue:Dialogue: The Nepali Congress is always ready to end any problem facing Gorkhali Armed Police Force is expected to the country through dialogue. The party is ready for unconditional talks. The suicide. But it has now become clear that Khadka himself was party to the reach the cabinet this week. party has instructed the government to make efforts to find ways for peace talks to According to a source in the resolve the Maoist problem. The party is ready to ensure the safety of the Maoists cabinet secretariat the local adminis- coming to talks and their safe passage back should the talks break down, and keep tration act will make the presence of secret the discussions until a final decision is reached by both parties. The Maoists the local commander of the army unit should give up violence while the talks are underway and the government should a member of the district security also not take any anti-insurgency measures during committee. The presence of an army that time. representative is not mandatory at the Mobilisation of security forces: One of the major responsibilities moment. The draft proposes having of the government is to ensure the security of all citizens. The government always regional administration offices in all has the right to mobilise its forces for the purpose. The armed struggle aimed at five development regions and the toppling the political system underway is not a simple law and order issue. This is government will appoint a first class what all political parties and people should be clear about. It is natural for the officer as the regional administrator. government to use the forces (the police and the army) at its command to disarm According to Clause 4 (c), the regional those that have taken up arms against the present political system. administrator would have authority to Political aspect: It is necessary for all political parties in parliament maintain law and order, order others and other national parties to agree on the following: have maximum policy-level to maintain peace and oversee the agreement to denounce the Maoist violence and terror, and form joint citizen’s work of the district administration security committees; undertake joint public meetings and other political offices. He or she will also head the programmes; and resolve the issues related to lawmaking to control the Maoist regional security committee, which will insurgency. have representation of the regional Socio-economic aspect (related to the much talked heads of the army, the police and the about package programme): All programmes relating to education, deal.

In the end our story has proven to Commission national investigation department health and development that have been prepared by the government should be ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ be true and the army has formed a 10- (intelligence office). promptly implemented. The help of all the political parties will be sought for its The ordinance amends a 1969 law implementation. Since most of the affected areas are cut off from the main- member general court martial com- Saptahik Deshanter, 22 October mittee to bring to book Khadka and to make the representation of the army stream, provisions will have to be made to provide food grains, education The Gorkhali commission formed by in the security committee compulsory. facilities and health services. Income and employment generating programmes his alleged accomplices. Among those facing court martial are 28 officers, the government to investigate and A cabinet secretariat source said should be given priority. Programmes developed for the affected areas in the past report of the Maoist attack on Dunai because there was no coordinating have not been effective. The government will, with help from district-level including Major Naresh Subba, Major Naresh Bhatta, Adjutant Prabhat has submitted its findings to the agency, the army was forced to stand by organisations and governance units and political parties, review these government. The commission was and watch the Maoist attack on programmes and only implement them after making the required necessary Shah (possibly related to royalty) and Captain Bishnu Karki. headed by Madhu Sudan Gorkhali, Dunai, the headquarters of Dolpo changes. with Binod Kumar Shrestha and district. The government should make provisions to provide loans to people to Even though delayed, the army has initiated action against those accused Mohan Banjade as members. A cabinet source says the govern- undertake income-generation projects. Loans may be provided by banks or non- The commission has said that ment will forward the armed police governmental organisations. Programmes that exploit the poor should be immedi- of selling ammunition. However, the army continues to remain silent about officials at the centre were at fault. ordinance for His Majesty’s approval ately stopped. Employment opportunities should be provided to those affected by The commission, which also inspected next week. The armed police force is to the insurgency. Social inequality, injustice and superstitions are fertile grounds the generator and ammunition sold by Aditya Bahadur Shah—a relative of the site, has pointed out lack of be under the Home Ministry and will for the rebels to grow. The local people’s representatives, the administration and effective co-ordination among live in barracks. The ordinance the police should form small groups that move from one village to the other to former military secretary to the king, Lt Gen (retd) Santa Kumar Malla— different levels of the administration. proposes to use the paramilitary force listen to, understand and help resolve problems as they arise. Programmes relating According to the Dolpo police chief to curb armed insurgencies and other to backward groups, women and other exploited groups should be implemented who was in Lebanon before Khadka. It is said that arms and ammunition had and the chief district officer, everyone conflicts that could take place in immediately. in the vicinity knew that the rebels different parts of the country. Administrative aspect: Proper rules and laws should be formulated begun to be reported to be missing when Shah headed the Nepali army were planning an attack but no one The force is also to be used in and implemented to control the rebellion. A dialogue with the rebels must also be knew where exactly they would strike. border security and for relief opera- started. For this an understanding with all political parties is needed. Since all unit in Lebanon before Khadka. In an earlier issue this paper had Had it not been for the striking force, tions during natural calamities. The administrative aspects of the districts cannot be overseen by the centre, there is a there would have been more casualties, ordinance says the size of the force need to create regional administrative centres. The government will have to make published that Lt Colonel Shah of the Bhairavnath Battalion, who headed as the three-nought-three rifles of the would be decided by the government all efforts to provide peace and security to all citizens, by making the police more police got heated up during the firing and another clause would also allow efficient. There is also a need to make intelligence gathering on the insurgency the 36th batch of peacekeepers in Lebanon, had even sold a generator. and stopped functioning after police the government to transfer personnel more effective. had fired 7-8 rounds. from the police to the force which will QUOTE OF THE WEEK Even though that report obtained from Lebanon was true no action was According to sources, the police- be under the command of an inspector We cannot give up multiparty democracy. In today's context there is also no taken because of the clout Santa men who were killed were in the general. question of doing away with constitutional monarchy. (The goverment) should be Kumar Malla wields. And Khadka is kitchen when the rebels struck. The The Nepal Police presently has a ready to talk (to Maoists) on all issues except these two. now facing punishment for continuing rebels had hurled a socket bomb into 7,000-strong armed wing. A govern- the kitchen and the policemen there ment task force had recommended that –Jhal Nath Khanal, Permanent Committee Member, CPN(UML) in Deshanter, a tradition started by Shah. Com- were massacred. The officials of the a paramilitary force be created for 22 October. menting on Aditya Bahadur Shah, a top army official says: “If this scam looted Nepal Bank Limited also had fighting the Maoist rebels. Even though were to be investigated further, even no idea that they would be attacked. the task force had recommended a Aditya Shah will not go unscathed.” The commission has recommended force with 15,156 personnel, Home This not the first time this sort of that action be taken against high- Ministry sources said that the number incident has taken place and the army, ranking officials of the Home Minis- had not been mentioned because the rather than take action against the try. Most of those officials are not government wanted to create the force guilty, has given them promotions. holding the positions today. The immediately using personnel from the That is why the army’s reputation is commission has also pointed out that police. beginning to get tainted. It is said that lapses in co-ordination between the the commander of the army’s brigade army and the police need to be tackled. in Dipayal, Kul Bahadur Khadka had Information that the rebels were sold goods worth $70-80,000 and had going to attack Dunai had been made been sent back with the proviso that he available to the then Home Secretary would not be eligible for UN service in and police chief by the parliamentar- the future. He was promoted instead ians representing Kalikot, Humla and of being punished. Likewise, Dipak Rukum a couple of days before the Bikram Rana who has been accused of incident took place. But it was only on misappropriating money for cigarettes the eve of the attack that 48 policemen How can you cry so much? We will eat as soon as we get the the were sent to Dunai from Nepalgunj, kerosene coupons. is being readied for more promotion. Khadka and the others accused are the report adds. Naya Sadak, 15 October

THIS PAGE CONTAINS MATERIAL SELECTED FROM THE NEPALI-LANGUAGE PRESS. NATION 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 7 Trash is back The bird scare at the airport closes a landfill site, and trash is piling up once more on the city streets.

HEMLAHEMLAHEMLATTTA RAIRAIA

HEMLAHEMLA○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○TTA RAIRAIA ing the birds. The government arbage has begun piling had been using the waste as up along the city’s landfill material for an 8-km Gsidewalks and main section of road that is being thoroughfares once again after the built since July amid loud municipality stopped dumping opposition from locals and waste along the banks of the environmentalists who argued MIN BAJRACHARYA Bagmati River. And matters may that seepage from the waste get worse once the government’s would contaminate the waters temporary holding site in Teku is of the “holy” river. But it was used up, mainly because the only the sudden increase in government and municipal bird strikes at the airport that that using city waste as filling better idea and proposed that week that a plan by the evaluation immediately after Tihar,” officials have failed to find a lasting forced it to reconsider its material for the Guheshwori- compost plants also be set up to re- committee to go abroad to Marhatta told us. “It will be solution to manage waste. decision. Gokarna road was totally safe and use biodegradable waste, arguing “study” waste management was completed in eight months after certainly not the cause for the bird that this would generate income rejected by the government. which one of the three firms will be hazard at the airport,” said Kul and also prolong the life span of the KMC had identified two sites selected to build the compost Prasad Marhatta, member- landfill. at Chobhar and one at plant,” he adds. That way, he secretary of the Solid Waste KMC went ahead and sought Sundarighat for setting up the claimed, Kathmandu’s solid waste Management National Council at bids from private businesses willing compost plant. The government, management problem would be the Local Development Ministry. to invest in such a project and even however, seems to have other solved permanently in two years’ The government’s search for a signed a memorandum of plans—to build a link road to time. permanent dumping site began understanding with Sushil Okharpauwa where it would Clearly the city, which generates after the Gokarna landfill had run Vanaspati Pvt Ltd in August last allow companies to build the 300 tonnes of garbage every day, out of space. It has been considering year. “We then asked the govern- compost factory. cannot wait that long. Tuladhar four other potential sites since— ment to find us a plot of land to set Thirteen companies had says there is still time for the Ramkot, Syuchatar, Thankot, and up the factory as agreed upon responded to the ministry’s call government to re-think its decision. Okharpauwa—and has even spent earlier but never received an for proposals from firms He also adds that if the factory is millions to build the necessary official response,” says an irritated interested in taking over located closer, less money would be

MIN BAJRACHARYA infrastructure at Okharpauwa and Bhusan Tuladhar at KMC. management of Kathmandu’s needed to build infrastructure, and Trash piles up again in Thamel, and (above) the Teku "holding site". Ramkot, despite claims by experts Instead, the government began solid waste. Six were short-listed should the best proposal be selected that both sites were inappropriate. suspecting the motive behind the and three—Sushil Vanaspati, now, the composting would be up The dumping along the Sources at the Local Develop- In April 1998, the government MoU with the private company Luna Nepal and NEPCO and running by summer next year. Bagmati was stopped after ment Ministry told us that they decided to hand over the responsi- and published another advertise- International—have made it past Either way, it will certainly be a several aircraft suffered bird were convinced that the use of bility for waste management to the ment inviting new bids. The the second round. long time before Kathmandu is hits at the Tribhuvan Interna- garbage in road-building was the Kathmandu Metropolitan City evaluation and selection of the “We’ll start building the link rid of its waste. tional Airport recently, which best immediate solution they could (KMC), and committed itself to potential company to manage the road to Okharpauwa (in many said could have resulted think of for managing the waste. making arrangements for a new capital’s waste remains in limbo, Nuwakot district 20 km because the waste was attract- “Studies have clearly established landfill site. KMC came up with a even as newspapers reported last northwest of Kathmandu)

first call was made and had from districts where they had submitted incomplete appli- originally become members. cations when applications In 1995, the Nepali NC readies for party election were asked the second time. Congress had 105,000 active Others who will get their members. The new decision memberships renewed are could mean an addition of and who had applied for received about 900 com- those who joined the NC 1,000-1,500, a number that renewal by 29 September. plaints). from other parties but had falls far short of being capable The applicants would have to Singh was among those not had their membership of affecting the outcome of provide valid applications, leading the protests Sunday. renewed and those who had the party election although accompanied by recommen- Party sources said member- not been given membership so Sher Bahadur Deuba and the dations from two regional ship of Singh and his follow- far. handful of permanent and/or district units. How- ers had not been renewed not The party also decided not dissenters he leads within the ever, the decision would not because that would make a to renew membership of those NC tend to believe otherwise. cover dissidents who had difference in the party that had moved to new contested against the official election but because of the districts unless the concerned NC candidates in the last technicalities, namely, they members decided to accept elections, said spok-esman did not re-apply when the renewals for representation Narahari Acharya. Renewals would also be made for those members who had been handed active party

MIN BAJRACHARYA memberships by the president Congress warlords Bhattarai and Koirala. in 1996. This includes some Congress stalwarts such as he ruling Nepali Con- attempt to influence the Kath-mandu’s Haribol gress (NC) has finally outcome of the upcoming Bhattarai and Marshal Julum T laid to rest a long- elections. Shakya, whose names had standing controversy that was The party’s central earlier been excluded by the proving to be a stumbling working committee met in a then district president block to the election of a new marathon seven-hour session Prakash Man Singh. Singh president during the party’s at the Prime Minister was one of the ‘stars’ whose 10th general convention to be Koirala’s residence at name did not figure in the held early next year. This Baluwatar on Sunday—with roster of active members came about with the decision riot police deployed outside published by the NC some two of the central leadership to the gates to keep a motley weeks back. Neither did renew the active membership crowd of slogan-chanting anyone from the Kathmandu of a small group that was up protestors at bay—before district committee headed by in arms against party presi- deciding to renew the mem- him that was dissolved earlier dent Girija Prasad Koirala bership of all those who this year appear in the list for what it charged was an figured in the 1995 party list (against which the party 8 NEPALI ECONOMY 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES

BIZ NEWS ECONOMIC SENSE by ARTHA BEED

Oil price aftershocks

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ After the petrol and diesel price hikes, it was only a matter of time before public transport fares went up which would soon be followed by corresponding in- Harassing Big Brother creases in the price of almost every commodity. And as expected, within days of announcing the new fuel prices, the government fixed new transport fares. Bus Travel through Nepali highways in a car with an Indian operators can now charge Rs 4.50 for every seven kilometers—they’re already said to be charging Rs 5.00 because of the problem of handling change—and Rs plate to experience highway robbery in broad daylight. 5.50 for distances between 7-13 km, while the fare for a distance between 13 to 25 km is Rs 9. friend in India sent a car empowered municipalities along and moved on. Taxi rates have also increased: at flag down it is Rs 7 and the charge for every over to take Artha Beed the highways to conduct highway At last we were at the Dharan kilometre travelled is Rs 12, up from Rs 9 before the changes. Likewise, the flag- AAA from Siliguri in India to robbery in broad daylight. We municipality gate to pay the entry down rate for metered three-wheelers is Rs 3 and Rs 8.50 for every kilometre Dharan in eastern Nepal. The were asked to pay for parking our fee. The guardian of Dharan told travelled. The taxi rates will be effective after the Department of Standards re- journey in this car bearing Indian vehicle on the national highway — us that we had not taken a permit adjusts the meters, but drivers are already asking customers to pay the increased licence plates was an ordeal, and Rs 20, as the car bore Indian from the Yatayat Bibhag (Depart- rates, which is calculated on the spot. left very little doubt in my mind plates. The next stop was to collect ment of Transport) at Itahari. He Actually, the government increase of 7 percent fell far short of the 30 percent that we Nepalis have found that the temporary Nepali licence plates, coolly told us to turn around, drive hike demanded by transport operators for short-, medium- and long-distance taxing Indian vehicles legitimately for Rs 50. We were told to pay IRs back the 17 km and get that permit. public vehicles. It will be some time before the fuel price increase registers in and illegitimately is our national 50 without a receipt or face the When told that we were not national inflation statistics. This is because fuel, light, water and transport to- weapon to vent our anger against consequences. informed by anybody that we gether account for less than 10 percent in the basket of goods on which the India. We take revenge against The next stop on this eventful required this document, he replied Consumer Price Index is calculated. But over time the increased prices will begin Big Brother by hassling and journey was to confront various it was not his problem. After to reflect in the cost of production of all goods and services—from restaurant food fleecing every Indian vehicle. For barricades put up by locals on the dropping a couple of names, and to labour wages. a country that depends quite a bit national highway. The first was a depositing my driving licence he let In the short run, because of the subsistence nature of the economy, the sever- on Indian overland tourists for group of six youth under the us go reluctantly. The net travel est impact of the new oil prices will be felt mainly in urban and semi-urban areas revenue, this is a fairly short- protection of a policeman who time was just over two hours—the where people rely solely on imported kerosene for cooking. It was thus not sur- sighted activity. Many of them demanded IRs 100 as Dasain total travel time was well over three prising that the Central Carpet Industries Association (CIAA) demanded that swear never to return to Nepal. pocket money. The sight of the cop and a half. carpet workers be given 12 litres of subsidised kerosene each month since the It began at the shabby gate at frightened the driver enough for A country that depends on proposed three litres would not be enough to meet their needs. Kakarvitta on the Nepal side of him to reach for his wallet, but I tourism for most of its income— the border. The first was the Rs 30 put up a fight. In the end I left much of it from across the southern stop. Nepali cops ask for Indian without paying, but two cars in border—should be going out of its

Carlsberg labels Rs 30 not Nepali Rs 30, and front were not so lucky. Extortion way to welcome Indians to use our

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Gorkha Brewery Pvt Ltd has begun labelling two of its beers with information on you’d be pretty foolish to question under protection, a blend roads. Charge them by all means, the brew, a move the company says will help customers buy what they are looking this if you are sitting inside an imported and perfected so well that especially since our roads are much for. The company says affixing product information back labels, as they are called, Indian car. The next is the entry it is now a fully Nepali phenom- better than theirs. It used to be is standard practice in the global market and adds to the standardisation of the permit—we were given a receipt enon. Nepalis had to travel through India beers. The labels come with both of its products Carlsberg and Tuborg. for Rs 370, the customs personnel I had by now worked up a to get to another part of Nepal. insisted payment in Indian sweat, and it wasn’t the heat of the Today, it is the other way around. currency, IRs 250, which meant plains. We drove into dusty But it won’t be for much longer if

NBL shares bullish another thirty rupees into the Dhulabari to get some water and our policemen behave like dacoits. ○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ informal sector. Then there was soft drinks. The entry fee was Rs The Canadians don’t have much As if triggered by the Nepal Rastra Bank’s the guy at the gate who wanted 16 for Indian vehicles and Rs 10 love lost for Americans, either, but decision to hand over Nepal Bank Limited (NBL) ‘tea money’. Rs 10 in Indian for Nepali once. We denounce the Mounties don’t harass Yankees. under a management contract to the private currency. countervailing duties, but we love sector, investors have begun to see a future for the bank, which had been dis- As the car was parked on the to make this difference ourselves. missed by auditors early this year as “technically insolvent”. highway while these not-so-official The next stop was at Urlabari Readers can post their views and dis- NBL stocks were top sellers in the first full week of business at the Nepal Stock transactions went on, I discov- where a member of Urlabari’s cuss issues at [email protected] Exchange which had shut down for an extended Dasain holiday. NBL stock ered what decentralisation in finest asked for Dasain money. We transactions accounted for 98 percent of the total banking sector shares that Nepal really means. It has gave him a dirty finger instead, were traded this past week. The value of the stock also went up from Rs 331 a week ago to Rs 655 when the market closed on Friday. A total of 18,739 NBL shares exchanged hands last week. Grindlays Gazette INTEREST RATE UPDATE CURRENCY UPDATE

Pokhara bank NEPALI RUPEE CURRENT% PREVIOUS% AG/USD CURRENT * WK/AGO %CHG ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Call Money Avg. 5.30 5.15 OIL(Barrel ) 33.40 33.96 - 1.65 Macchapuchhare Bank, a new venture, began operations at Pokhara's Naya GOLD(Ounce) 271.60 271.80 - 0.07 Bazaar on 3 October. It plans to open two more branches in the tourist city within 83 Days t/bill 4.95 4.91 GOLD ( NPR *) 7115 7130 three months. The bank’s total capital is Rs 240 million and the issued capital is 91 Days t/bill 5.22 5.17 Rs 120 million. The bank presently has 36 promoter-shareholders and has plans 365 Days t/bill 6.18 6.16 - 0.21 to issue 25 percent of the shares to the general public. Repo rate 5.72 5.67 EUR 0.8382 0.8515 - 1.56 GBP 1.4535 1.4469 + 0.46 The average rate of 91 days T/Bill rate improved slightly on

Bad start for Kumari Bank lower demands from the major commercial banks, as RBB JPY 108.55 108.16 + 0.36 ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ and NBL were seen having less interest in bidding. T/bill rate CHF 1.7897 1.7744 + 0.86 is expected to remain stable with possibility of some Even before it began banking services, Kumari Bank Ltd has been mired in AUD 0.5301 0.5226 + 1.46 controversy, apparently due to a boardroom dispute that has now reached the improvement in coming weeks if major bidding banks decide not to bid aggressively while bidding for T/Bill in the primary INR 46.36 46.30 + 0.13 courts. The court has upheld the founding-chairman of the bank, Noor Pratap market. Expected range for coming weeks 5.25 to 5.45. *Currency bid prices at 6.41 p.m. on 23/10 - Source Reuters Rana, as the rightful head of the board of directors, as opposed to the new Oil: Crude oil prices stayed firm after a weekend of continued Israel- Palestine chairman GD Shrestha, promoter of Hotel Radisson, who was appointed some FOREIGN CURRENCY : Interest rates violence. No solution is in sight especially follo0wing a statement issued by Iraqi weeks ago. The court also declared illegal the decisions taken by the new board USD EUR GBP JPY CHF leaders on Sunday whcih urged Arabs to revolt. of directors. The bank plans to begin operations in December. LENDING 9.50 6.25 6.00 1.50 5.13 Currencies: The Euro fell to within a half of all-time lows against the dollar LIBOR (1M) 6.62 4.88 6.05 0.32 3.28 reflecting widespread doubts that European policymakers can do much to rescue the

Qatar’s French connection embattled currency. Decline of Euro weighed heavily on the Swiss Franc, pulling it to

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ fresh 11-year lows against the dollar at 1.80 Francs. The market was growing more BANK RATES(DEPO/LENDING)Mkt Hi/LoMkt Avg Qatar Airlines is to begin twice-weekly flights from Kathmandu to Paris starting 1 skeptical that central banks will launch another rescue mission to shore up the S/A NPR 6.0/3.5 5.23 beleaguered currency anytime soon. The Yen clawed back some territory against the November, the company announced last week. The route will be serviced by an dollar. Airbus A300-600R which has a capacity to carry 224 passengers. F/D 1 YR 7.5/6.0 6.73 Qatar already flies from Kathmandu to London via Doha. The Kathmandu- OVERDRAFT 15.5/12.5 13.54 INDIAN RUPEE OUTLOOK : Doha-Paris is a new route from Nepal, says Joy Dewan, the airline’s GSA in TERM LOAN 14.5/13.0 13.37 The Indian currency hit a new closing low against the dollar on Monday but volumes Kathmandu. The Kathmandu-Doha-Paris will be the 26th destination served by were thin, with trade marked by poor supply of the U.S. currency. The rupee has lost IMPORT LN 13.0/10.5 11.52 more than 6.10 percent against the dollar since January and is within striking distance the airline, which also has plans to begin two flights out of Kathmandu every day. EXPORT LN 13.0/10.0 10.63 of its lifetime intra-day low of 46.45 hit on Aug 13.

Tax registrations up MISC LOAN 17.5/13.5 15.03

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ The number of taxpayers obtaining Permanent Account Numbers (PAN) has reached close to 20,000 up from about 6,000 in early June. Firms and individuals can obtain the PAN from the Kathmandu Taxpayers Service Centre. INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR NEPALI TIMES

Samsonite suitcases 6 months 1 year

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Samsonite, the company which claims to produce only the most "reliable, durable SAARC countries US$25 US$48 and stylish" luggage and accessories opened shop in Nepal last week. Samsonite Other countries US$40 US$75 Nepal, in association with Anirudh International, will distribute the products in Nepal, a market which the company says is dominated by low-priced unbranded [email protected] products, with little choice for consumers. The company also promises that its products will be world class, supported by after sales service and "soft" on the CULTURE 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 8 SAVING FAITH by DESMOND DOIG The city Vishnu may have built When you drive into Bhaktapur, your car is a time machine and

you are back in the 15th century

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

large hostelry favoured by Tibetans, still brilliant monuments behind. known as the Bhote Bahal. In an Only the lampposts and the Mercedes outstandingly handsome temple square is a Benz relic remind of the present. house built for Indian Brahmins imported (Excerpted with permission from In the from South India to teach and translate Kingdom of the Gods, HarperCollins, 1999) religious texts. The rich raised fine houses, kings lavished love and money on the city to raise temples, shrines and rest houses for pilgrims. They embellished the city with statuary and carving, extended the palace, built baths and fountains, ghats by the river and large, ornate tanks to ensure an adequate supply of water. The fame of the city spread far and wide. Because of its numerous temples and shrines and the pious nature of its people, it became known as the city of devotees. Though once the capital of an undivided valley, Bhaktapur fell prey to the f all the ancient cities of the sensory perception of looking into the politics of ambition that not only separated Kathmandu valley, Bhaktapur is twentieth century to which the tourists the cities of Kathmandu, Patan and the least changed. There are vistas belong. The streets are paved in herring- Bhaktapur, but had them almost Oover acres of medieval tiled roofs bone brick. You may meet the nine Durgas, continuously at war with each other. interrupted only by the thrust of temple fearfully masked, who strut and dance and Perhaps the walls that ringed the cities spires and golden images atop tall stone hold up traffic as long as it pleases them. belong to an earlier age when they were pedestals. In the narrower lanes, carved Their acolytes, boys dressed in turbans and susceptible to attack from numerous wooden windows almost meet overhead. loose robes hung with heavy silver and enemies. Or they were hurriedly built when Grain is winnowed in the streets and chillies copper jewellery demand alms. Or your the valley divided itself into three kingdoms, dried wherever space permits, so at times progress may be stopped by a bull fight on each with armed satellite towns that streets, temple squares and rooftops are which bets are hurriedly placed. Shops protected the cities. Chronicles make bright scarlet. Corn and vegetables cascade overflow into the streets; earthen pots, numerous mentions of these walls, but mirinda from wooden eaves to dry in the vegetables, insecticides, fertilizers, brass and nothing remains of them except two gates in wondrously golden sun of Bhaktapur. It is a copper ware. On a temple plinth, a witch Bhaktapur and one in Patan. Even these are farmer’s city, so one surprises people laden doctor spreads his potions such as fragments not very old. As targets of repeated attack with hay or carrying vegetables hung from of dead animals, birds and reptiles while they must have been destroyed time and bamboo yokes across their shoulders. It is making sure of business by including nails, time again. The western gate in Bhaktapur, not uncommon to see piled vegetables in hammers, locks and flashlights among his surprisingly Moghul in style, is late Malla. one basket balanced by a small child or two exotica. Having seen the assault of the Gurkha king in the other. Now small tractors have Tradition has it that Lord Vishnu Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1767 and the invaded the streets and lanes tremble as they himself built the city in the shape of a sacred unification not only of the valley but the pass. conch. Surprisingly enough, aerial whole of Nepal, the old gate has remained There is far less Western attire about. photographs confirm the shell shape of an ornament, its two stone lions guarding The elderly and the old stick to their Bhaktapur. More believable is the claim the city against nothing more serious than traditional dress. Women wear striking red that Licchavi kings raised the status of a invasions of modern tourists. and black sarees with white shawls, their cluster of villages called Bhaktagiama, on Through the gate is one of my ears outlined in gold rings. There are as yet the Tibet-India trade route, to the status of favourite views; the cobbled road dipping no shops selling the enticements of Bangkok a small city over which a known king, steeply into the medieval city so that houses and Hong Kong. Although for a while, Ananda, ruled in the late ninth century It is are elevated on plinths and connected to the when the valley discovered videos, there recorded that at the end of the fourteenth road by stone stairways. Carved wooden were cinema posters stuck to ancient carved century the well-known Malla king, Jaya rest houses that must once have stood free wood or left standing against guardian stone Sthiti, moved his capital to Bhaktapur. are now part of the walls of houses, most of lions outside temples. Youths glued to The city prospered. MuIe trains jingled them housing ceremonial raths of various walkmans or swinging transistors to the over the passes from Tibet. Caravans of sizes. Over the rooftops looms the tiers of rhythms of the BeeGees and Eagles, were porters came from India. One can imagine the temple of the five sages, Bhaktapur’s never a feature of Bhaktapur. The young the streets filled with traders from as far as proudest monument. And beyond, are the are out in the fields, in their unsophisticated Lhasa, Shigatse, Lucknow and Benares. mountains. shops, or working in Kathmandu. Spices and condiments, salt, brocades, fine The road is invariably filled with men In fact, when you drive into cotton silks, tea, grain, jade and porcelain, carrying heavy loads of vegetables, hay and Bhaktapur, your car is a time machine and gilded images, furs, painted scrolls, arms, pottery. Time stands still. One looks into you are back in the fifteenth and seventeenth horses, live birds and animals for a king’s the high noon of Newari art and culture. centuries, but endowed with the extra menagerie. In the centre of the town was a Into a wondrous age that has left so many

10 LIFESTYLE 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES

SUBEDI SALIL

Dawn breaks over Bhaktapur like the opening of an act set in some medieval conch-shaped stage. This ancient town is a treat to behold,

and a classic lesson in heritage conservation. SUBEDI SALIL SALIL SUBEDI ALOK TUMBAHANGPHEY Home of Mystery: “Were there treasured culture, heritage, telling the same story twice Devotees get their vermilion town’s elderly men and ANDAND SALIL SUBEDI ANDANDAND○○○○○○○○○○○○○ SALIL SUBEDI nothing else in Nepal, save the social harmony and commit- over. Yet this aspect is its tika from the temples, traditional musical perfor- o to Bhaktapur before Durbar Square in Bhadgaon ted people who are gentle biggest draw. Dawn breaks farmers tread well-worn mances by the Kushule your visit there proves [Bhaktapur], it would still be and hard working,” says over Bhaktapur like the paths to their fields, potters musicians. The ten sites of Gcostly. The best preserved amply worth making a journey Prem Suwal, mayor of opening of an act set in some start rolling their wheels, and Bhramyayani, Maheshwori, and least polluted of halfway around the globe to Bhaktapur. “The people of medieval conch-shaped stage. women wearing the tradi- Kumari, Bhadrakali, Barahi, Kathmandu Valley’s cities has see it.” this city are to be credited Hundreds of ancient monu- tional black saree with red Indryayani, Mahakali, placed a further premium on And sure enough more then for having a positive outlook ments, brick houses, shrines border spread the harvested Mahalaxmi, Tripura Sundari visits. The entry fee for 50 percent of the tourists who towards the conservation of and temples stand as props, rice grain out in the morning and Bhairav Temple are the foreign visitors is slated for come to Nepal take the time their town. Earlier, it took and the eighty thousand or so sun. places to observe these an increase, beginning Jan off to visit this great city. The quite an effort to make them citizens who live in this In the evening, the piths performances at dusk. 2001. The fee for non-South city gates, just west of the do it but now everything, ancient town still go about and temple courtyards come “There are two types of Asians will be raised to $10, Durbar Square, welcome more from heritage conservation doing what have done for alive with bhajans, devo- bhajans. The morning bhajan while those from the region than 500 visitors a day to sanitation management, is more than a thousand years. tional songs rendered by the wishes people a fruitful day taken care of through community efforts.” Bhaktapur, or the “city of devotees”, with its myths of Tantrics and Tandavs, is a living heritage site believed to be guarded by the eight power goddesses, or Ashta Matrikas, who surround the city. Though official history has it that this Newari town was founded by king Anand Dev Malla in the 9th cen- tury, the famed Chinese traveller Hieun Tsang mentions the city in his

SALIL SUBEDI travel chronicles of the 5th TUBORG century AD. will have to pay Rs 50. But during the peak season. Entry Spread over an area of there is no point cribbing fees are $5 and Rs 30. (The 6.88 sq km, 12 km south-east about it since the trip will entry tickets entitle an of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, prove well worth the amount individual multiple entry for or Bhadgaon as it was and more. a week. A visitor’s pass valid formerly known, showcases This easternmost of the till the expiry of the visa date the splendour of the Golden Valley’s medieval urban is also issued for same price Age of Nepali art and settlements has remained a should the visitor ask for it.) architecture. There are 345 model for heritage conserva- More than 39,000 non-South significant monuments (108 tion since it was declared a Asians and 12,000 South Buddhist and 273 Hindu) World Heritage Site in 1979. Asian visitors have visited all of which are part of the Indeed, Bhaktapur and her Bhaktapur this fiscal year and Bhaktapur world heritage citizens stand proud with the city has already realised site since 1979. many awards and mentions revenues exceeding $200,000. The city’s architecture is for the preservation of their “They come in all sorts, a reminder of the various culture and heritage. The individual travellers, touring stages in Bhaktapur’s history, First Honourable Mention groups, researchers, photogra- and reflect the rule and from Asia for 1998-99 phers and artists. And from patronage of various rulers. awarded by UNESCO, all over—from Latin America Among these, there are 232 states—‘in recognition of its to the small islands in the architectural masterpieces outstanding contribution to Pacific,” says Damodar from the Malla period. the restoration of hope, the Suwal, who is in charge of the Several of these Malla period reinforcement of solidarity Bhaktapur Tourist Service buildings are privately and the consolidation of the Centre. A total of 202,688 owned, and many of them culture of peace in everyday tourists visited the city in are still being used as life’. 1999/2000, while projected residences. The Shah rulers The admiration for arrivals for the current year is who came after the Mallas Bhaktapur is not new. As far 220,000. The municipality added another 117 buildings back as the late 19th century, earned $1,483,365 in 1998/ and the Ranas have had their when Nepal still had many 99, of which it spent own influence as well. well-guarded secrets, foreign- $1,117,760 towards heritage To talk about the time- ers like E.A. Powell of the conservation. lessness of Bhaktapur’s living British East India Company “This is a city full of heritage would be to risk wrote in his book, The Last LIFESTYLE 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES11 generation has only helped a realise that they have actually on cable television. However, certain section of the society. So contributed to the preservation Bhaktapur’s guardians have a it is not likely that the increase of a unique civilisation for credible history—of knowing in the fee will help those in generations to come. Our every what is best for the preservation need,” he says. “It is not right effort is envisioned with the of this ancient town. A visit to use the money raised from future in mind.” there will tell you more. the tourists to be used for any The municipality is very other purpose apart from confident of carrying out heritage conservation,” he says. heritage conservation on its Another Kathmandu-based own, and has refused grants expat says: “If the municipality from big enterprises that have really wants to increase the fee, shown interest in restoring the the tourists should also be monuments. The revenue provided with services and generated from tourism has facilities of equal value. Even if been utilised efficiently and the tourists are charged a hundred results are there for all to see; dollars they might still come in, the architectural heritage is well but that may not be the best preserved and the city is well way to go about it.” maintained and free from the Mayor Suwal justifies the traffic and chaos of other impending rise in entry fee places. saying: “We don’t just collect The debate may continue on money from visitors because it aspects such as the increased MIN BAJRACHRYA is profitable. People should entry fee and others like the ban ahead and asks the gods to be forefathers. “We don’t make so mediocre cultural values aired with them. The evening songs much of the old designs any- through cable television,” he remind them to rest since the more, but at least my son is says. Clockwise from top left: World Heritage Site marker day is done,” says one old man learning,” he says. There are also some critics stone in Bhaktapur, the Thalache Sattal and the Golden as he waits for his fellow One difficult aspect of of the move to increase the musicians at the Bhairav conserving Bhaktapur’s living entry fee for visitors. Among Gate with the 55 Window Palace at Durbar Square, temple sattal. Tibetan chants heritage is to maintain a fine them is Goetz Hagmueller, rice terraces on the outskirts of Bhaktapur from the music shops reverber- balance between the ancient and Austrian conservationist and highlight the town’s close links to the land, ate on a serene morning, a the modern. Some decisions like architect, who has been living woman in traditional black-and-red dress reminder of the not-so-distant the municipality’s ban on cable in Bhaktapur since 1979. As walks by the famous terracota house in past when pilgrims from the television are met with scepti- head of the Bhaktapur Devel- Tuchi, and harvested rice lies on the north came chanting Buddhist cism by the younger generation. opment Board, he played an prayers and rested in the “Do we have to be deprived of important role in the conserva- streets to dry in the Mangache numerous paati pauwas what the rest of the world is tion and restoration of the neighbourhood. (resting places for pilgrims and enjoying? Not everybody would town. Hagmueller is not too travellers). like to stay back and do the same happy about the increased History is replayed when old work here,” says Rajesh, a entrance fee; “I agree that the Sundar Prajapati, a potter at college student. municipality has been doing a Talako Square, sits down Not exactly an argument lot from the money raised and beside the furnace with his that is likely to move the mayor. has set an example in preserv- eight-year-old son, teaching “We don’t want to spoil our ing the cultural and historical what was handed down by his age-old rich culture with heritage. But the income

G AD

SUBEDI SALIL

Digital Symphonic Recording Pvt Ltd.

The only trustworthy destination for digital quality recording & computerised CD premastering.

Anil Bhawan, Kamaladi, Kathmandu, Nepal Phone: 00977-1-243649, Fax: 00977-1-220161 E-mail: [email protected] 12 CULTURE 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES AA gg::urmet’surmet’s gugu44dede toto KathmandKathmanduu

MANIKA BANIYA AND SWEETY Bill Clinton to Cindy Crawford and Mick plate. For lunch, try the succulent sushis and Pavilion, where meals are accompanied simply irresistible.

SINGH ○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○ Jagger, and our own former prime minister nori maki. by gazals. The menu sports an exciting Kathmandu is a suprisingly Two weeks after the Dasain feasting, Sher Bahadur Deuba. Pineapple with No attempt to list all the eateries in list of names that sound truly royal and cosmopolitan gourmet’s paradise. It’s all Nepalis (at least those who can afford it) cracked black pepper, and vanilla ice Kathmandu can do justice to the what’s more, the taste is rich and here, and all you need to do is explore. will be gorging themselves once again. After cream with hot citrus sauce are worth trying creativity and class that all classy flavoured by different eastern spices. There are a lot of other restaurants, all it is Tihar, certainly a much more out if your taste buds don’t hotels offers at their Take the keshari murg mangaar for especially in Thamel, just waiting to be colourful and brighter festival than Dasain. restaurants. Still some stand instance. This king of kababs is a whole discovered. And there is no better place for these out. chicken marinated traditionally in Epicurean delights than Kathmandu. One of them is YingYingYing saffron-flavoured yoghurt, lemon and The capital offer s a varied choice for YangYangYang Thai restaurant in cream and cooked in a tandoor. If you those who want to break the greasy sel-roti Thamel, probaby one of the areR decidedly green then you might like to routine. We present a selected survey of most genuine Thai tastes this try the khumb korma ghazni, fresh eateries that is intended to serve as a guide side of Kanchanaburi. mushrooms and garden green peas in a to both tourists and Nepalis who want to go totally beserk. Two other must-do places are housed rich tomato and onion gravy with cashew make the best of the holiday by going on a Bhancha Ghar (Tel: 419798, withinR five-star establishments—the nuts.R gastronomical tour. 423128), which stands for the Nepali word Alfresco (Tel: 273999, 272999) at The Gurkha Grill at Soaltee Wunjala Moskva is one for kitchen, began a grand and much- Soaltee Crown Plaza and the FarFarFar Crowne Plaza is perfectly suited for a restaurant that serves the best of imitated ethnic cooking revival 12 years PavilionPavilionPavilion (Tel: 488122, 488123) at fun-filled evening. With a Filipino band Kathmandu’s Newari cuisine combined ago. Its fare consists of sada bhuja (a rather the Everest Hotel. Alfresco specialises in thrown in, GG’s offers contemporary with what once adorned the tables of snobbish name for good old Nepali-style Italian cooking and is one for fine dining global cuisine at its best. There’s the RussianR aristocrats. Moskva (Tel: 415236, boiled rice), kalo dal (lentils garnished with at surprisingly affordable prices (even for GG’s Jumbo MoMo served with cilantro 241811) serves exotic preparations that you Tibetan herbs), meat dishes, vegetables and the rich variety of wines) which belies the sauce for starters. Lobster Thermidore may not find in restaurants anywhere in the pickles prepared traditionally. The desert is up-market setting and clientele. served in a creamy sauce flavoured with world, not even in esoteric cookbooks. kheer (rice pudding). The entire 10-course Alfresco also has fare for those with mustard and mushroom and served with Where else can you find dishes with names set menu, including a cultural show on the deep pockets—try the gamberoni al saffron rice may be just the thing for you which would make any Nepali’s mouth side, comes at Rs 900 per stomach. The cognac (pan-seared large prawns and your companion. Or you could go a R water spontaneously like Pavlov’s effect: restaurant, within walking distance of flambéed in Cognac) at Rs 700 a plate or little classical and do the Smoked Salmon chhwela, chatamari and woh. Thamel, is a worthwhile stop. the filetti di salmone “Alfresco” (poached on lettuce with spring onion, green Dinner at Moskva’s spacious Another well-known destination fillet of salmon on spinach with cream peppercorns, fennel leaf, capsicum and traditional setting comes packaged with for Nepali food is BhojanBhojanBhojan topped with onion confetti) for Rs 900. olive Oil. A range of chocolate fudges, glimpses of Newar culture. Moskva takes Griha (Tel: 411603), in a typical It’s India at its best at the Far rolls and mousses make the desserts into account the festivities and the Newari Nepali setting with elaborate Nepali New Year and may have something dances and comic performances special performedR around your table. Bhojan Griha’s bar is decorated with erotic carvings and goes by the name of Kamasutra. Strictly adults only. Then there’s the mother of all restaurants serving ethnic food— KrishnarpanKrishnarpanKrishnarpan at Dwarika’s Hotel at SOALTEE AD Battisputali (Tel: 473724, 472328). Dinner this Tihar. There are the Newari specialties comes in five variants—4-, 6-, 9-, 12- and like me mana (boiled water buffalo tongue) 16-course meals—and reservations are a for example, that comes with enough ayla must if you want to get a table. The prices (home-made rice liquor) to wash it down. also climb with the size of the course The main Newari dinner will set you back ranging from Rs 950 to over Rs 2,000. The Rs 1000—there’s a trimmer menu for those only piece of advice for those seeking to not confident of tackling the set menu, sample the whopping 16-course dinner at which can be had for Rs 700. Krishnarpan is to fast on the day you go That’s just the Newar bit, the Russian there. concoctions are equally tempting. You can What makes Krishnarpan dinners go Russian by starting with zakuski—a specialR is the ambience of this classically platter of assorted salads. Then sample designed hotel where there’s a story about from an assortment of soups until you settle every brick and every bit of antique for the kill—stew of wild boar or chicken woodwork. Krishnarpan’s ceremonial feasts with mushroom, carrots and seasonal are served on tables designed with centuries- vegetables, stewed and baked in a clay pot, old latticed woodwork, in traditional or shashlik or blinchiki with red caviar. plates, bowls and glasses by hostesses dressed The Russian meal costs Rs 975. in traditional outfits. From Russia to America. If you want to go all-American, there’s Mike’sMike’sMike’s Breakfast Breakfast (Tel: 424303) down the road from Wunjala, offering lunch and breakfast, and everything in between. The choice here includes a set country breakfast and breakfast burrito (scrambled egg, potatoes, beans and cheese in a tortilla served with salsa and sour cream), among others. Mike’s also makes the best pancakes in townR and serves sandwiches custom made to suit your choice of bread and fill-ins. Contrary to its name, Mike’s also serves lunch. Mike’s has chicken stew, enchiladas, stuffed baked potato or home made pasta. Average spending per person at Mike’s would be in the range of Rs 195-260. There is also the Indigo Gallery on the floor above the restaurant for those with an eye for art, and time to while away. Away from the din and bustle of the Closer to the tourist centre of Thamel city centre and ensconced on a quiet is another pit stop worth considering for a residentialR hillock south east of Kathmandu quick sandwich or a sampling of its desserts. is the Hotel Kido, whose TamuraTamuraTamura The menu at Kilroy’s ofofKilroy’s restaurant (Ph: 240303) offers what patrons Kathmandu Kathmandu (Tel: 250440) is not as say is the most genuine Japanese cuisine in elaborate, it does not serve any speciality Nepal. Tamura’s secret is its Japanese chef, but has a mix as diverse as Thamel’s whose culinary skills have made it a haunt tourists—from french onion soup and for most Japanese residing in Nepal. gundruk (fermented vegetable soup) and What can be said with a great deal of tandoori rotis and thalis to tenderloin steak certainty about Tamura’s prices is that, at for the main course. Kilroy’s “Welcome to Rs 500-800 per head you pay less than what Nepal” costs about Rs 630. you would for the same food in Tokyo. One Dessert at Kilroy’s is something to of its dinner specials, the mixed nigiri (raw sample especially because the group claims fish and rice) costs Rs 800 and another toR have stuffed the rich and powerful—from speciality, ika sashimi, comes at Rs 600 per NATION 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES13 HERE AND THERE by DANIEL LAK Let them eat apples Entertain and educate It all began with an innocent packet of cheese balls. You know, the lovely, the tough brothel life and the locally made junk food that has immea- threat of HIV/AIDS that surably enriched our lives in the commercial sex workers are Kathmandu valley. Or at least those of exposed to. our children. The AIDS education street As somewhat of an economic nationalist, wherever plays are expected to create I live, I try to buy local and think global. So the arrival greater awareness among those of Nepali-manufactured snacks in packages that at risk and generate popular appeal to my children gave me great pleasure. No demand for the government to more Uncle Chipps in over-inflated packages from a act. But the artistes admit that certain neighbouring country. No more of those imparting the message will not dreadful, poisonous Pringles that are probably a by- be easy. “The sexual connota- product of the American nuclear weapons tion associated with AIDS, and programme. My children can overeat salty, fatty the fact that it is a disease that substances to their heart’s content, with only their takes years to show up makes it parents and their doctor to object. difficult to express through That is, until I tried to buy some cheese balls in plays,” says Arohan’s Sunil, Birethanti, the roadhead in Myagdi district. This village who with his actress wife Nisha is at the beginning of the long trek and trade route to has travelled extensively across Jomsom, over the soaring ridge of the middle hills and Nepal performing plays on up the Kali Gandaki river valley. It is a cosmopolitan various health and development place, home to Gurungs, Magars, Thakalis and other themes. “At times, performers assorted members of the Nepali mosaic. There’s even have to sacrifice the artistic an Englishman whose company is one of the attrac- element to hammer home the

RAMYRAMYRAMYAAATTTA LIMBUUU tions of the place for me. RAMYRAMY○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○AATTA LIMBUU Street dramas seek to inform message, but it is rewarding But the cheese balls set off a furious series of Sunil Pokhrel, Nepal’s foremost Nepalis about AIDS when people want to know events; most of them in my fevered imagination, which street theatre director, has been more about the issue after the regular readers can attest is in a constant state of preoccupied lately trying to shake country’s health and everyone is growing. A recent estimate performance.” ferment. Or perhaps up Nepali policy-makers who vulnerable. The aim of the indicated that nearly one in His Kathmandu-based fermentation. No believe AIDS is not yet a problem drama, which was staged in a every five sex workers in group often uses local village matter. The cheese balls There were, it turned out, for the country. He had his street-play format, was to tell Kathmandu is infected, and so performers and trains them in in question were for my two prices for cheese chance on Tuesday when his Nepalis and their rulers that are half of all intravenous drug staging plays. “Street theatre is son, a between-meals balls—one for Nepalis, one group, Arohan, was asked to stage they are not as safe from HIV users. Equally at risk are large a powerful medium for snack to keep him quiet for foreigners. a drama event in front of Prime infection as they think, and numbers of poorly educated, spreading awareness. But there while I read a novel by Minister Girija Prasad how to avoid being infected. young village men seeking low- have to be follow-up the side of the Bhurundi Khola. We were each enrich- Koirala, government ministers Perhaps street theatre is the way paid seasonal work in India’s programmes. You can’t expect ing ourselves, in our ways. I went from shop to shop in and bureaucrats on the to take the message to the big cities, and to some extent one performance to bring about search of the junk food in question, and was met with occasion of the 55th anniver- grassroots, and to spread the in Kathmandu also, where they change overnight,” he says. a stone wall of monopolistic obstinacy. There were, it sary of the United Nations, and message about an epidemic that visit brothels. One of the great successes in turned out, two prices for cheese balls—one for this year’s theme: “Race Against is going to be the biggest killer Makwanpur, the district the street theatre genre was Nepalis, one for foreigners. Poverty: Breaking the silence of Nepalis in the 19-45 age south of Kathmandu, is one of another AIDS education play I was flabbergasted that something so inexpensive on HIV/AIDS”. group in the next decade. the nine districts where that was staged earlier by and innocuous could fall victim to this all-pervasive After the speeches were over, Says the Nepal Resident various non-governmental Taranga for truck drivers along disease of discriminatory pricing. There’s no exag- half a dozen people sprang up Coordinator of the United organisations are staging street Nepal’s highways. Guruji ra geration in saying ‘disease’ for such practices are a from the audience, shouting: Nations, Henning Karcher: plays in the run-up to World Antare is about a truck driver cancer upon the face of commerce, society and, I “What’s all this noise? Why are “There is no room for compla- AIDS Day on 1 December. and his helper, in which the daresay, national pride. Okay, okay, it’s just a packet you wasting time discussing an cency, and the window of Here, the local Taranga driver shows his assistant how of cheese balls, and perhaps I’m miserly. But think invisible disease?” Another ran opportunity to invest in cultural troupe will perform to use condoms. Recalls about it. In fact, let me refer to a friend in India con- up to the podium and said: effective interventions to Junge Hawaldaar, a one-hour Taranga’s Sharma: “We fronted with a similar situation. Perhaps the reason for “AIDS is an Africa problem, prevent the spread of HIV is street drama, which uses performed at highway stops. It my ire will seem more reasonable coming from my not a Nepal problem.” Another closing fast.” The UN says the comedy to convey its serious became a hit. Fathers and friend’s experience, from the other side of the dis- angry man said: “We don’t AIDS virus is increasing message. “We have to ensure daughters could watch the same criminatory equation, if you will. have roads, there is encephali- poverty in poor nations and that spectators enjoy the show. play without squirming with He is a member of the proud Bengali nation, and tis, diarrhoea, those are our undoing earlier gains by At the same time, we provide embarrassment.” as such takes no nonsense from anyone. His nearest problems, not AIDS.” draining away resources from information that will make This is also what the new and dearest is a talented American journalist. The two Who were these hecklers? education, farm growth and them think,” says Taranga’s plays aim at—to get Nepalis out of them went to an art exhibition at a Delhi museum Wasn’t security going to take other development sectors, and Ujwal Sharma. Enlivened by of the mode of denial that has and were confronted with a sign demanding, as them away? No, it turned out, the danger is Nepal could face improvisations, the play shows marked the general response to admission, Rs 10 per Indian national and Rs 150 per these were actors from Arohan, the same crisis. Conservative how young and unsuspecting AIDS. “foreigner”. My friend, as they say, went ballistic and I and this was the dramatic estimates put the number of village girls are lured by paraphrase him but slightly in the following lines. medium they chose to highlight HIV-infected in the country at organised bands of traffickers “What the #$%$ is all this about? Are we such a the problem of denial. Later, 32,000, while the real figure with offers of jobs in India’s sorry lot that we automatically assume all non-Indians the audience is told that AIDS could be five times as many. big cities. Its main protagonist are richer, more easily tapped for funds and by impli- is a real problem for the And it is a number that is is a policeman and it depicts cation, better than us? What about the Ambanis, the Tatas, the IT barons of Bangalore? Will you let them in for a measly 10 rupees and charge my friend here, who earns less than I do by the way, fifteen times tions of young Nepalis, everymore? day. What The station,kind of whichridiculous has been cringing promoting reverse the dis- Nepal among others. An inter- programmecrimination in donewspapers, we have radio,here?” television And so andon. theThe Internet poor view with Prime Minis- asadmissions one that would clerk provide let them “a realisticboth in picturefor free, of justNepal”, to get hopes ter Girija Prasad Koirala torid double of my listenership friend. on D-day. is also to feature in the TheThe broadcasts point is willnot thatbe conducted foreigners live can’t from afford the studios to pay of calling broadcast. Radiomore Nepal, for things which like is providing entry permits technical to thesupport Annapurna in the For jungle safari, effort.Conservation Area, or Bhaktapur, or flights to NHK’s producers will be RAJESH K.C. Pokhara. Or even cheese balls. They can. But so can taking the Japanese many Nepalis, and why shouldn’t everyone pay the Japan audience to Chitwan. FREE POSTCARD FOR EVERYYY same ifFREE they can POST affordCARD it. I suggest, FOR humbly,EVER YYthe The trekking part will plague of discriminationBOOKBOOKBOOK isn’t worth the extra money. In focus on Pokhara and the anyA largecase, consignment I’m back ofin books, Kathmandu especially where flown inthe for youcheese from apan’s public radio, the Japan Broadcasting Corpora- surrounding hills. Also featured will be wayside eateries from ballsBoston are byfairly Lufthansa priced has for arrived all. Andat the I’m United trying Books to Store convince in tion (NHK), is doing an eight-hour direct broadcast Patan’s Durbar Square to restaurants in Kathmandu’s posh my Thamel,son to theeat booklover’s apples anyway. paradise. Get one free postcard for JJJ from Nepal on 3 November. The broadcast which is part tourist hotels. every book you buy. Hurry, and get to United before supplies of NHK’s “All-Asia Autumn 2000” programme is to be And because any programme on Nepal will be incomplete run out. These books were especially selected for you from broadcast throughout Japan on the station’s medium wave without the mountains, NHK’s producers will also have a the Harvard Book Store, Kate’s Mysterious Bookshop and the frequency. segment on mountain flights with former Miss Nepal, Niru Spencer Bookshop in Boston. A team of two Japanese technicians and four producers are Shrestha, piloting Buddha Air’s Beech 1900Ds. already in town making last-minute arrangement for the All NHK producers are willing to concede is that the broadcasts. NHK’s Nepal Correspondents Miki and Laxman entire effort is “only a nice coincidence” but for a foreign Upreti are providing research and logistical support. station to devote an entire day’s programming on a country The eight-hour programme will consist of music, talks, 5,000 kilometres away also speaks of growing Japanese interviews and short radio features on lifestyle, nature, interest in Nepal. culture, trekking, tourism, commerce, industry and aspira- NHK broadcasts are listened to by about 20 million people 14 ASIA 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES

After Nobel, Kim faces crises

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ SEOUL - Basking in a chorus of congratulations More sex please, we’re In- after winning this year’s Nobel Peace Prize, South With open displays of affection, girls flirting with Korean President Kim Dae-Jung faces dissenting and restive voices at home amid fears of a second boys in Internet chat rooms and kissing on TV, economic crisis. A spate of domestic political and Indiadian is in the midst of a sexual revolution. political woes shows that Kim has to convince an increasingly doubtful people that he can fix an ailing LUKE HARDING IN NEW DELHI its plastic hippopotamus, red economy—thus far described as having made the ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ London phone box and fake best recovery from the 1997 Asian crisis. New Delhi - India is in the throes hunting memorabilia, Djinns This despite the fact that many here were in a of a modest sexual revolution. may resemble a trendy London festive mood after the 74-year-old Kim was named After two centuries of Victorian pub, but that is not the point. It recesses, several matronly the young heterosexual rich who Nobel winner on 13 October, for his pursuit of stuffiness, couples now walk is one of the few places in India chaperones wearing salwar are enjoying India’s gradual democracy in South Korea, and his efforts toward about holding hands in Delhi where it does not feel like India. kameez sat around looking sexual awakening. In another peace with North Korea through his ‘sunshine parks as they wander past the None of the girls wear anything bored. Everyone in Gucci, Delhi hotel, the capital’s first gay policy’. Business conglomerates raced to run huge Moghul tombs. There is kissing on traditional–they flaunt micro- Prada or Armani seemed to be bar has just opened. Its customers newspaper advertisements to convey their con- TV, and teenage girls hang out skirts, dinky designer handbags having a good time. The are almost exclusively middle- gratulations, and Seoul after school in Internet chat and sheer tops. The boys sport designer labels are just one class, educated and English- last week was graced rooms, flirting with male Armani shirts, shiny black loafers consequence of India’s blossom- speaking. Yet the bar marks a with fireworks and classmates. But in one corner of and floppy haircuts. ing consumer revolution, which modest beginning in a country cultural events. India’s capital the sari has not Having talked my way in– began in the early nineties when where homosexuality is still But not everyone is just slipped a little but has fallen something of an achievement in the country’s previously closed technically illegal and many gay in a cheerful mood. off entirely to reveal a bare itself—I struck up a conversation economy was opened up for the men find themselves bullied by Indeed, rising oil midriff. It all happens at Djinns, at the bar with Rajiv. He claimed first time. relatives into unhappy arranged prices, domestic debt Delhi’s hippest bar and night- to have made his money export- What gives Delhi its unique marriages. Back at Djinns, it is problems, falling stock club, not far from a major traffic ing garments. He liked London hedonistic frisson is that much 2am and time to go home. A prices and unfinished intersection and had visited Equinox, the of the money being spent in procession of chauffeur-driven efforts to clean up the where lepers Ministry and other London clubs. places such as Djinns—where a BMWs and Mercedes swoop financial sector have beg. Here is How easy, I asked, was it to meet half-pint of lager costs $3.50—is down from the hotel car park. raised new worries where the girls here? “The thing about not strictly earned. The capital The drivers are taking their about a second phase capital’s young Indian girls,” Rajiv explained, is full of bureaucrats, and in charges back to monstrous, of economic woes. elite rich comes “is that they are very shy at first. India bureaucrats are synony- Dallas-style ‘farmhouses’ in south Kim’s government is to party. They But once you get to know them, mous with corruption. While a Delhi, complete with swimming having hard time trying might they f*** like wild.” On the dance handful of the boys and girls at pools and mock-Grecian to convince people of even get floor behind him, a couple of top- Djinns are the progeny of neo- porticoes, and to huge flats in the need to spend an additional $44.63 billion to bail off with heavy Sikhs bopped away to the rich IT professionals, most have Delhi’s plusher colonies. out the ailing financial sector. each other, latest rave tracks. On a balcony politicians or senior civil The lepers, meanwhile, have This amount would be on top of the $98.2 billion behaviour above, the club’s Indian DJ servants for parents. knocked off and gone home already spent on bail-outs following the economic unthink- waggled his arm in the air. Girls “They are a thoroughly spoilt too. (Observer News Service) crisis in end-1997. ‘’I begin to worry that I could be able a in sequinned evening dresses bunch. If they ever get into the next to be laid off,’’ said Kim, 38, a sales man- decade working for Chivas Regal took trouble their parents always get ager of a conglomerate unit that is under the credi- ago. photographs of the suitably them off the hook,” one Indian tor bank-directed restructuring. (The Guardian) With glamorous. Over in the darker friend told me. But it is not just China to okay pact on human

rights

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Sri Lanka: Tamils at the top table Beijing – On 23 October, China announced its intention to adopt the terms of the UN Convention of Economic, Social and Cultural Rights before the A generation after, and against the backdrop of a bloody separatist war, Sri year is out. The announcement came at a summit Lanka’s Tamil population will have a voice at the highest level of the island’s meeting between top officials from China and the European Union in Beijing.

LLLgovernment.UCIEN RAJAKARAKARAKARUNUNUNANANANAAAYYYAKE IN COLOMBO With France holding the EU presidency, Jacques ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ LL○○○○○○○UCIEN RAJAKARAKARUNUNANANAAYYAKE tives to further their ends. Chirac led the European delegation to China. He COLOMBO - For the first time in two decades, which have seen The NUA and the Muslim Congress will also be making their said he was sure the Chinese would ratify the Tamils wage a determined and bloody separatist war against the Sri presence felt in order to secure a place in President Kumaratunga’s convention before the end of the year. The EU has Lankan government, an elected Tamil member of parliament will hold new government. However, this is expected to antagonise some been encouraging the Chinese to ratify for some a cabinet position in the island’s new People’s Alliance (PA) led sections of the Sinhalese Buddhist population which fears that the time. governing coalition. president will capitulate to the demands of the island’s minorities. Beijing signed two UN conventions on human Two parties, the Tamil Eelam People’s Democratic Party (EPDP) Rauff Hakeem, leader of the NUA, a Muslim party, has already rights in 1997 and 1999 respectively but have been and the Muslim led National Unity Alliance (NUA) will be backing insisted that the PA agree to appoint three independent commissions hesitant to incorporate the terms of the agreements Chandrika Kumaratunga’s People’s Alliance (PA), which already has promised under the new constitution, within the first 100 days of into Chinese law. Despite this week’s assurances, the support of at least ten members of the Sri Lanka Muslim Congress. government. These are independent commissions set up for public diplomats believe it may well be several years These alliances give the PA a working majority in the Sri Lankan service, the judiciary and the conduct of elections. before the regime ratifies the second and politically Parliament, with 117 seats in the 225 member House. The passing of this new constitution remains on top of the more significant of the two conventions—that deal- While some sections of the island’s Tamil community have secured president’s legislative agenda, which underpins her ambition to reach ing with political and civil rights. this high level representation, others too have had members returned to a peace deal with the island’s Tamil community. The new constitution They likewise doubt if the ratification of the two Parliament. But is aimed at giving equal rights to the Tamils and seeking a negotiated conventions will lead to advances in human rights in theirs is a very end to the war with the separatist Tamil Tigers (LTTE), but without China in the short term. “On paper, the Chinese different agenda. the requisite two-thirds majority in parliament it remains an uphill enjoy a good number of liberties,” an American Three parties, which struggle. diplomat pointed out, “but in reality these laws are strongly support the It is unlikely that the opposition UNP and the three Tamil parties simply ignored.” separatist Tamil backing the Tamil Tigers will endorse the new constitution. The By contrast, EU representatives saw the an- Tigers, will ensure Marxist People’s Liberation Front, which won ten seats and is nouncement by Beijing as “further proof” of progress that a loud voice in expected to function as a separate bloc in parliament, is also unlikely in the field of Chinese human rights. support of their cause to do so. In such a situation, President Kumaratunga may have to According to Chirac, Brussels will continue to is heard in parlia- make a key decision on whether she will go ahead with transforming work toward the establishment of a state of law in ment. It remains an the new parliament into a constituent assembly, which would then China and the advancement of human rights. To this ironic feature of the allow the new constitution to be adopted by a simple majority end EU officials presented the Chinese premier Zhu election campaign followed by a nation-wide referendum. The political calculations will Rongji with a list comprising the names of dissidents that the Liberation have to be made very carefully in this matter, so as to ensure that the and other victims of state persecution. Tigers of Tamil Eelam new constitution receives more than 50 percent of the votes in the (Observer News (LTTE) used strong- referendum. Service) arm tactics in an Opposition leader Ranil Wickremasinghe, whose UNP party won

attempt to frustrate the 89 seats against the PAs 107, has said that the new government is War correspondent shot dead ○○○○○ democratic process and unstable and will not last more than six months. But having led his ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ yet will use their party to defeat in eight consecutive elections since August 1994, One of Sri Lanka’s most respected journalists, democratically Wickremasinghe’s own leadership position is under threat. Mylvaganam Nimalrajan, has died aged 39 after elected representa- This election also saw the entry of the first Muslim woman into being shot by unknown assailants. He reported for Parliament. Feryial Ashraff is the widow of the Muslim Congress numerous foreign news organisations from Jaffna leader and Minister for Rehabilitation who was killed in a helicopter where fighting has raged for the past 17 years. He was one of the few independent journalists able to crash early in the election campaign. (Observer News Service) function in the peninsula and at times was almost single-handedly responsible for informing the out- side world of the latest developments in a conflict that has killed 60,000 people. WORLD 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 15

Better conditions for air travellers

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Pressure on the airline industry is likely to increase Mediating the Middle East with the publication of a British parliamentary report For nearly 10 years the UN has been sidelined calling for better health and safety conditions for air travellers. from the Middle East peace process. Now, with The science and technology select committee of the Clinton-brokered truce failing to take hold, the the British House of Lords, which is due to report on UN and the EU step in. the medical environment of aircraft cabins in three

weeks, is expected to recommend that airlines give ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○ passengers more explicit preventive advice about Liberation Organisation. standing policy of the 21-member deep vein thrombosis (DVT) before long-haul flights. This has been the case all Arab League to sever relations The condition, often referred to as “economy class along between the Israeli with any country setting up its syndrome” can be brought on by sitting for long negotiators and their Palestinian embassy in Jerusalem. To refresh periods in cramped conditions. counterparts, who represent a Clinton’s memory the Arab According to Farrol Khan, director of the Aviation fledgling political-administrative League reiterated its long- Health Institute, which researches air deaths, the entity, called the Palestinian standing policy. While Bill amount of leg room makes many economy class Authority. It also explains why Clinton’s statement impacted airline cabins a health hazard. “The danger in Barak refused point blank to positively on his wife’s election economy class is far greater because when the accept an international inquiry campaign, it forfeited his claim passenger is sitting still the usual pumping action of into the recent violence, and to be an honest broker between the calf and thigh muscles no longer pushes the insisted on a bilateral investiga- Israelis and Palestinians. It came blood up to the heart while at the same time the tion. In contrast to Israel’s on top of his thinly disguised pressure on the edge of the seat blocks the return of lukewarm response to Annan’s criticism of Arafat and Egyptian the venous blood,” he said. involvement the Palestinians, President Hosni Mubarak as Although no detailed research has been carried aware of the power imbalance obdurate, and somehow respon- out, Khan estimates that as many as 6,000 passen- between them and the Israelis, sible for the failure of Camp gers a year may die as a result of DVT, with as little welcomed it. David II. as three hours of cramped conditions putting some BY DILIP HIRO IN LONDON ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ New York state where Jewish Domestic considerations Given the severity of the crisis people at potential risk of blood clots in the deep he current domestic votes and money are crucial to weigh heavily on Barak. He has that enveloped the region, it is veins of the legs which can move to the lungs, caus- politics of the US and victory. It was in such a situation the support of only a third of the incumbent upon the UN Security ing a potentially fatal embolism. The Lords select TIsrael have begun to impinge on that Kofi Annan stepped into the 120 MPs, and the device of a Council and its secretary general committee is expected to call on airlines to advise the Middle East conflict to such breach, followed by Solana, the national unity administration to play a leading role in dousing passengers to drink plenty of water, take aspirin— an extent that new players have EU’s foreign policy representa- can only briefly postpone the final the flames, and return the parties which helps to thin the blood—and exercise leg emerged as probable mediators. tive. reckoning—a no-confidence vote to the negotiating table. After all, muscles during the flight to try to fend off the condi- The visits by United Nations By being personally involved backed by an alliance of religious the Palestine problem is the only tion. (The Guardian) Secretary General Kofi Annan in alleviating inflamed relations parties and the Likud, led by one that the UN shares with its

and the European Union’s Javier between Israel and the Palestin- Ariel Sharon. It was to bolster predecessor, the League of Mbeki attacks CIA on AIDS

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Solana to the violence-torn ians, Annan raised the profile of Barak’s sagging political fortunes Nations, established after the First ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ region seem to reflect the the UN, something that has been that, following the failure of the World War. And it was the UN Not many people enjoy being criticised—especially diminishing role of the US—a missing since the US grabbed the Camp David II talks on 26 July, General Assembly that in 1947 men in powerful positions. Like South Africa’s Presi- country that has dominated the mantle of chief intermediary. In Clinton went out of his way to proposed partitioning Palestine dent Thabo Mbeki. For months Mbeki has been peace process for almost a decade. 1991 Israel’s hardline Likud praise him for making “conces- into Arab and Jewish sectors, offering his abstruse opinions on the subject of AIDS. Anxious to remain in office, Prime Minister Yitzhak Shamir sions” on the future status of which led to the emergence of Now, instead of finally accepting research results the Ehud Barak has been trying had agreed to participate in the Jerusalem. Israel in 1948. (Gemini News) whole world considers valid, he is working himself into frantically to cobble together an Madrid peace conference on two Two days later Clinton told a lather over conspiracy theories. emergency national unity conditions. He wanted the UN to an Israeli television interviewer, (((London-based Dilip According to reports in two South African weeklies, government for just one month. be excluded and bilateral talks “I have always wanted to move Hiro is the author of Mbeki told his African National Congress that the CIA Then there is President Bill between Israel and each of its our embassy [from Tel Aviv] to Sharing the Promised was working closely with pharmaceutical manufactur- Clinton—a lame duck chief three Arab neighbours, with West Jerusalem.” Tel Aviv is the Land: A Tale of Israelis ers. He accused the two of colluding to promote a link executive, further handicapped Jordan’s delegation to include internationally recognised capital and Palestinians) between HIV and AIDS to boost drug industry profits. by the fact that his wife, Hillary, Palestinians who were not of Israel. Jerusalem is Israel’s self- Mbeki has been under fire for months for question- is contesting a Senate seat in members of the Palestine declared capital. It is the ing the causality between HIV and AIDS. In an inter- view with Time magazine he said, “The problem is that once you say immune deficiency is acquired from that virus your response will be anti-retroviral drugs.” Many other factors, Mbeki said, could contribute to the collapse of the immune system, citing for example poverty, malnutrition and contaminated water. Mbeki The Insecurity Council Triad maintained that the deaths of thousands of people The world’s three biggest arms suppliers are permanent members of the UN could not be traced back to a single virus. Mbeki’s security council who continue to militarise the world’s most volatile regions. latest statements could be catastrophic for a country in which one in five adults is infected with the virus

BY RICHARD NORTTTON-TAON-TAON-TAYLYLYLOR IN LONDON ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ BY○○○○○○○ RICHARD NORTTON-TAON-TAYLYLOR and in which— he West’s three permanent members of the UN Security Council according to the account for 80 percent of the world’s weapons sales at a time when government’s own T it is incapable of mounting effective peacekeeping operations, estimates—six according to a report published yesterday by a London-based think tank. million people will The US increased its share of the international arms trade last year die of AIDS over and now accounts for nearly 50 per cent of the $53.4 billion annual the next decade. market, according to the report in the International Institute for Strategic (Sueddeutsche Zeitung) Studies (IISS) publication the Military Balance. Britain came second, selling nearly $10 billion worth of weapons, while France was third at almost $6.6 billion. Divers open Much of these weapons systems were supplied to the Middle East, the up Kursk world’s biggest arms market. Saudi Arabia, the world’s largest arms buyer,

purchased more than $5.5 billion worth of weapons last year. hull ○○○○○○○○○○○ Taiwan was the largest arms importer in East Asia. Middle Eastern “The long-term aim of the UN operation in Sierra Leone is un- Salvage experts engaged in the difficult and ex- countries spent $60.5 billion on arms last year, says the report, which also clear...” tremely sensitive operation to recover corpses from notes that the Israeli air force had set up its first anti-ballistic missile the strain of what looks like an increasingly lengthy commitment in Kosovo,” the sunken Russian submarine, Kursk, pierced the battery some 30 miles south of Tel Aviv. The IISS also reported that the report said. “Even those with all-professional forces are finding they are inner hull of the nuclear vessel for the first time and 100,000 people were killed as a direct result of armed conflicts in the year over-committed in Europe and beyond”. found a less threatening environment than had been up to August, 60 percent of them in sub-Saharan Africa. The report is deeply sceptical about the EU’s ability to realise its plans for feared. The IISS damned the lack of government commitment to interna- an independent, 60,000-strong rapid-reaction force. “European leaders The combined teams of Russian and Norwegian tional peacekeeping. “It remains the case that the UN continues to speak of a European defence capacity but have not voted [for] the funds to divers, who started descending over 100 metres to overreach, approving ambitious mandates and deploying inadequately finance it,” said the IISS director, John Chipman. If the continent is unable the Kursk on the bed of the Barents Sea on Friday, supported forces in volatile situations,” Chipman said. “The long-term to muster a credible independent force, NATO will have to remain strongly cut through the outer hull, stripped away a layer of aim of the UN operation in Sierra Leone is unclear and the capacity of the involved in EU security. “European defence, in all but the most trivial of industrial rubber casing designed to maximise the UN to make a sensible contribution to what is a hugely unstable situation cases, will remain a transatlantic affair,” Chipman said. vessel’s stealth and pierced the tougher inner hull at in the Congo is questionable,” he said. UN member states were “incapable Britain and France have invested considerable political and diplomatic the stern. Russian navy spokesmen reported that the of producing the sometimes very large contingents that a proper operation capital in setting up a joint EU military force, which would conduct rescue workers found “pure water” inside one com- would require,” he said. peacekeeping operations without the involvement of the US or NATO. partment. There were no traces of fuel or of in- While defence spending increased in most regions of the world, France wants to cap its six-month stint as EU president at the European creased radiation from the submarine’s two nuclear including the US, spending by NATO’s European members other than summit in Nice in December with a firm commitment to set up a credible reactors. Britain and the three new entrants—Poland, Hungary, and the Czech force with at least 60,000 troops. (Guardian News Service) Six teams of three divers are working round the Republic—continued to decline. “NATO countries in Europe are feeling clock from a diving platform, resembling a large mobile oil rig, which arrived at the scene of the 16 MULTIMEDIA 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES “Corporations advertise, culture Subvertise, don’t advertise, says a new international campaigner against globalisation who wants the world to take part in a “Buy Nothing Day” jammers

DUNCAN CAMPBELL IN to Tokyo where he was in even higher. Adbusters’ aim is spectre of our TV-addicted CALIFORNIA

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ market research and then to to start to reverse the process. nation, the savage anomie of a It carries some of the most subvertise”Canada. There he became an “At the beginning, I did feel society entranced and en- striking visual images of any award-winning documentary we were talking to the con- trapped and living a lie. It’s magazine in the world, and filmmaker before founding verted,” says Lasn, “but all of a time to admit that chronic TV perhaps no publication could Adbusters, which was driven by sudden there is a well-spring of watching is North America’s claim to be more in tune with his increasing disillusionment interest.” Initially, Adbusters number-one mental health the current international with the corporatisation of the was produced on newsprint problem and that a society in campaign against corporatism world and the failure of and had only a small if loyal which citizens spend a quarter and globalisation. It is conventional left politics to following, but it now sells of their waking lives (more Adbusters, the “journal of the combat it. His philosophy is 100,000 copies worldwide, than four hours a day) in front mental environment”. Next contained in the book Culture mainly in the US, but also of their sets is in serious need month it will be encouraging Jam, the Uncooling of America, throughout Australia and New of shock therapy.” the world to take part in a “Buy where the list of dedications Zealand and with around If you watch people flipping Nothing Day” and this month it includes “My mortal enemy, 2,000 subscribers in the UK. through Adbusters in a book- is running a “creative resis- Philip Morris Inc which I vow Its small team of journalists, store or newsagents, you can tance contest” to encourage to take down.” Lasn believes based in Vancouver, are mainly often sense the slight puzzle- world-wide cultural rebellion. that the mass media now in their 20s and 30s. “There is ment on their faces. Is this ad It was founded by an dispense a form of the “soma” a messy feeling that things for Absolut Vodka for real? Is Estonian who has worked for that novelist Aldous Huxley aren’t quite right.” Essentially, this two-page photo-spread of the Australian defence depart- predicted in Brave New World: Lasn sees the magazine as a an elderly man asking “How ment, and is based on the “The most powerful narcotic in player in the epic battle between can I die with dignity?” an Pacific coast of Canada. Its the world is the promise of corporate culture and civic invitation to a website about ideas come from the French belonging. And belonging is best culture—“a people-driven dying? This is part of the Situationists and from Marshal achieved by conforming to the planet earth or a corporate- magazine’s intent, a desire to McLuhan but its concepts and prescriptions of America.” execution are very much In response, Lasn and his twenty-first century. The colleagues have set themselves “We believe that culture jamming will manifesto at the back of the bi- the task of “unswooshing monthly explains who is behind America” and “jamming its become to our era what civil rights was the publication: “We are a loose image factory until it comes to to the 60s, feminism to the 70s, and global network of artists, a sudden, shuddering halt”. environmental activism to the 80s...” writers, environmentalists, Adbusters is effectively the ecological economists, media- bulletin of that movement. Lasn literacy teachers, reborn lefties, environmental activism to the the demonstrations in Prague estimates that we receive driven planet inc.”. challenge the persuasion ecofeminists, downshifters, 80s... Above all, it will change this year, that it has suddenly around 3,000 marketing And for all the playful industry, to subvert the high-school shit-disturbers, the way we interact with the started to break through to a messages in an average day; nature of the publication, Lasn meaning in the message and to campus rabble-rousers, mass media and the way in much wider audience. Its from the logos on people’s and his colleagues are quite encourage people to become incorrigibles, malcontents and which meaning is produced in founder and editor-in-chief is clothes to the billboards or serious. As he put it in Culture “culture jammers”, taking on green entrepreneurs... We our society.” 58-year-old Kalle Lasn, who posters we pass, to the commer- Jam: “Instead of treating the corporations at their own believe that culture jamming Adbusters was actually born left Estonia as a two-year-old, cials on our televisions and the vegetative, corporate-driven TV game. “Corporations advertise will become to our era what more than 10 years ago, but it and grew up in Australia where ads in our daily papers or the culture as something to be and culture jammers civil rights was to the 60s, is only since the events of he worked for the defence signs in our supermarkets. gently, ironically mocked, it’s subvertise”, is one of their feminism to the 70s, and Seattle last year that led up to department before moving first Some research puts the figure time to face the whole ugly credos. Adbusters does take ads itself and will run “advocacy advertisements”, such as either pro or anti-abortion, but it reserves the right to vet every other kind of ad which means that most that do appear are mainly for books and CDs, rather than for, say, cars and alcohol. Some of the visuals are subversions of well-known ads but although all the likely suspects—Nike, McDonald’s, Coca-Cola and Walt Disney— have been lampooned, only one has sued: “Absolut Vodka came after us with a horde of lawyers, but we beat them back quite handsomely. They got scared and ran away with their tail between their legs. We have quite consciously provoked people like Nike and McDonald’s—they haven’t sued but they do subscribe.” Lasn ran into problems, however, when he tried to advertise his Buy Nothing Day on television. All the major networks refused to run the commercials and CNN only agreed after being hounded by a reporter from the Wall Street Journal. But Adbusters remains optimistic. If not culture jam today, then certainly culture jam tomorrow. (The Guardian) SPORTS 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 17 Pele turns 60 Clash of irons Rio de Janeiro -The living football legend, Pele, With three major tournaments it is a busy turned 60 this week, and he is not so sure how to deal with the anniversary that he will celebrate month coming up for Nepali golfers quietly with his second wife Assiria and their twins

MUKUL HUMAGAIN in Switzerland. “I still am as afraid of my birthdays ○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○ total purse is Rs 1.2 million (the champion sport. Though golf is still as of brutal defenders,” he said. But defenders usy days are in the offing for Nepali will take home Rs 195,000), making it the known as a game of the elite rarely had a chance as the facts about Pele’s golfers as three major golf biggest in Nepal and comparable to most in Nepal and participation is still success tournaments get underway in tournaments in the Indian circuit. mainly restricted to the well-heeled and BNovember. These are the Surya Nepal speak for Around 100 professional golfers from the expats, trends are changing. The themselves. Western Open in Pokhara, the Surya Nepal Nepal and other South Asian countries are number of players has gone up to 400 Pele scored Eastern Open in Dharan, and the Surya expected to take part in the Surya Nepal from just a hundred a decade ago. A 1,283 goals Nepal Masters. The last is a prestigious Masters to be held 22-25 November. “We number of exciting players such as Deepak in his profes- tournament which will see Nepali golfers are hopeful that 16 Nepali and 80 top Acharya, Ramesh Nagarkoti, Radheshyam sional career compete with some of the best from India Indian professionals will be in the fray”, Thapa, Rajan Thapa, Yelambar Adhikari, spanning 21 and elsewhere from South Asia for the top says Binod Thapa, marketing manager of Deepak Neupane and Toran Shahi have years. He spot. STC. In 1999, there were 15 Nepali and emerged in the national scene. However, no won three Surya Nepal Masters has its roots in 70 Indian professionals taking part. Rohtas Nepali has won a professional tournament World Cup 1993 when in began as the Surya Nepal Singh of India finished with 2 under 142 so far. The best performance till now was in titles with Invitation Open Golf Championship. and won the first Surya Nepal Masters, the 1996 edition of the Surya Championship Brazil in Renamed Surya Nepal Masters in 1999, its while Feroz Ali and Harmeet Kahlon (both when caddie-turned-player Deepak Thapa 1958, 1962 venue too was shifted from the Royal Nepal of India) were tied at second place. The Magar stood second. In the amateur section, and 1970, Golf Club (near the airport) to Gokarna Nepali pro Ramesh Nagarkoti stood at the Deepak Acharya created a sensation when he two intercon- Golf Club, the only 18-hole course in eighth place with 145. Among the won the title in 1995 and successfully tinental Nepal. The competition is slowly putting amateurs, Nepali golfer Rajan Thapa took defended it the next year. champion- Nepal on the map of the golfing world. It is the title. But before the Masters, STC will With more and more golf courses MIN BAJRACHARYA ships and 10 the only international-class golf tournament be organising the second Surya Nepal coming up every year, Nepal can easily be Sao Paulo of the country and is recognised by the Western Open at Pokhara’s Himalayan promoted as a golf tourism destination. titles with his Professional Golfers Association of India Golf Course even as it inaugurates the Tournaments like Surya Nepal Masters can club Santos, (PGAI), which has included it in its official Surya Nepal Eastern Open at Dharan provide the initial impetus. As STC’s Thapa plus a US tour. The tournament, organised by Surya Golf Club. The two tourneys, which carry says, “We want to link golf with tourism. title with Cosmos New York in his final year 1977. Tobacco Company (STC), has grown in prizes totalling Rs 50,000 each, is open only That was the reason behind organising Pele was named World Footballer of the Century stature by the year. Not only has the to Nepali professionals and amateurs. Says tournaments at major tourist spots outside last year. number of players increased, the prize Thapa of STC, the tournaments outside Kathmandu. Not only does it encourage His parents had seen it coming from the start. money too has gone up annually. Compared Kathmandu is to provide a platform to domestic professionals but it also helps the Legend has it that his mother was stunned by how to the Rs 800,000 in 1999, this year the aspiring golfers and also to promote the tourism industry.” the yet to be born boy was kicking inside her. And his father reportedly said at the time: “It will be a great footballer.” Maybe he should also have been nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize, since an African tour by Pele and his Santos club in 1969 actually halted the war between Biafra and Nige- Beckham’s burblings ria. “The king of one African country even offered David Beckham’s book My World might read like something scribbled by a me one of his daughters for a night. But I de- clined,” recalled Pele. Pele’s friends believe that badger, but the aroma will appeal to both male football fans and female Edson Arantes do Nascimento would have gained

BY TERRY EAGLETON ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

BY○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ TERRYfantasists. EAGLETON world fame even if he hadn’t been a footballer. ne suspects that David Beckham wrote My World rather in the Pele himself rates his time as Brazilian sports sense that the Pharaohs built the pyramids. Beckham’s prose is as minister between 1996-1998 higher than his O excruciating as one imagines VS Naipaul’s shots at goal would be, professional career. and reading this aggressively style-less book is a bit like munching your “We built 100 sports centres which managed to way dutifully through yard upon yard of muslin. get the children off the streets and away from Curiously, though, its very monotone, stream-of-tape-recorded crime. These successes are lasting, not like a consciousness style begins after a while to seem like some artful, sub- football result,” he said. Pele resigned after sev- Pinteresque device. “I had,” he tells us, “one really, really good friend eral run-ins with Brazilian football officials, but said called John at primary school. I had other friends…. but no one like him.” he will return to politics when the time is right. There have been livelier narratives. We never encounter John again, or Pele has never lacked confidence and even probe deeper into why he meant so much to Beckham. It is just one of said he could still play pro football: “There was those bald, uninterpretable things, like chasing someone with a vacuum only one Beethoven and there is only one Pele.” cleaner, wearing a sarong or including a close-up photo of your dirty feet This underlines how it must have hurt him that in your autobiography. Not that any of this matters much, since the text in coach Tele Santana snubbed him in 1986 when he this lavish production is far less important than the photographs, and wanted to play at a fifth World Cup aged 45. He is neither can compete with the volume’s delicious aroma. There could be no still astonishingly fit and youthful, and has many finer reason to buy this book than to sniff it. Readers who buy it but don’t plans for the future: “To turn 70 in perfect health, inhale are missing out on most of the fun. to set up my personal internet site, and to help get Since you can now apparently take a course in the Manchester United Brazilian football out of its bureaucratic chaos.” star at the University of Staffordshire, there’s no point in his pretending There is also a short-term aim: “To convert the to be an ordinary guy. Ordinary guys don’t land up on the syllabus penalty against Gordon Banks at the official alongside Plato and Pynchon. But this is precisely what this crafty, Wembley farewell party November 2.” After all, apparently guileless book is out to counterfeit. Beckham projects himself as Pele was also involved in what is arguably the a shy, modest, chaste, uxorious, home-loving, extravagantly commonplace finest goalkeeper save ever, when England’s type, faintly naive and just a mite boring, not quite as geekish as Gary Banks dived to his right and knocked Pele’s formi- Lineker but tilting more towards him on the football-star spectrum than dable header over the crossbar during a World “I have a camera up my backside almost 24 hours a day,” writes to the Dionysiac George Best. Cup match in 1970 at Guadalajara, Mexico. (dpa) He is relentlessly devoted to his wife: “I see us as the perfect couple”, he Beckham in his new book. announces, a phrase which avoids odious self-adulation only because it comments of his early days as a player. He also detests racism (he is a quarter clearly doesn’t know itself to be even more unacceptable than referring to Jewish himself), and isn’t in the least bothered by being fancied by gay men. oneself and one’s partner as a couple of prize turds. For a man who has A lot of people will read this book as one might read something scribbled been regularly “hit by thongs and knickers”, Beckham is upright in a by a badger: what matters is the author rather than the content. But football moral rather than libidinal sense. At one point, he observes leeringly that a fans will read it for inside information, and there’s a good deal of that. But particular set of bra and panties he received in the post must have come this regular guy is also a public fetish, and the book can work only by from “a big girl”. Elsewhere, however, he reveals that he likes to get in prudishly playing down that whole dimension. touch with the feminine side of himself: hence the celebrated sarong. He “I have a camera up my backside almost 24 hours a day,” Beckham tells even cautiously enjoys a bit of art, and has been known to indulge in a us, but it’s hard to know whether this is a boast or a whine. He is scrupu- little nature imagery, such as “over the moon”. He is also far more lously careful not to overdo the moaning to side-step the obvious riposte: addicted to cool new-age tattoos than to tacky old-style booze; indeed he how come he’s so averse to cameras when half this book, indeed half his life, intends to have the names of his future children etched into his back along consists of images? with that of Brooklyn—which, given his ferocious domestic affections, This split down the book’s middle, between text and image, is also the might end up taxing even his lithe torso. The irony is that Beckham is fissure known as David Beckham. In the front half, the bashful lad who indeed an ordinary guy, even if he is also playing at being one for all he’s loves his old mum and prefers curling up with a take-away to showbiz worth. The counterfeit is true after all. He comes across as attractively—as orgies; in the second half, the sultry, self-displaying narcissist, hungry for the well as tediously—low-key, and is as quick to praise others as he is to admiring gaze. (Guardian News Service) criticise himself: “I was showboating, hitting flash, stupid balls,” he 18 CITY 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES ABOUT TOWN QUICKWORD 4 by Cross Eyes

FILMS 100 Nepali HITS FM off air Plaza 2 WIN A Basanti - One of the most popular FM stations in the HOUR Chautari – Ashok, Krishna (470090), Valley, HITS FM, has been pulled off the air INFOCOM Dhukdhuki - Bishwo Jyoti (221837), MILLENNIUMCDCDCD Goon (Kha) (520668), Prithvi (online this week by Radio Nepal in a move that HITS booking), Ganga Chalchitra managing director, Sonny Shrestha, described Mailee - Goon (Ga) (520668), Ranjana as “unilateral, arbitrary, unethical, and un- (221191) businesslike”. The most convenient and economic way to surf the internet Hindi HITS used the Radio Nepal transmitter on Terms and conditions Aaghaz - Tara (476092) FM 100 for eight hours of programming daily for which it paid a 1 The contest is open to everyone, except Deewane - Metro block fee of Rs 4 million a year. “We were given barely a few employees of Himalmedia Pvt Ltd and Infocom Pvt Ltd. Dhadkan - Nava Durga (online hours’ notice before we actually stopped broadcasting, and we booking), 2 In case of more than one correct entry, the have immediately protested this action,” said Shrestha. winner will be decided by lucky draw. Gopi (470090) Dhai Akshar Prem Ke - Radio Nepal’s board decided Monday to allow another 3 Entries have to reach Himalmedia, by 5 pm, Fiza - Radha 31 Oct, Tuesday. Hindustan Ki Kasam – Shivdarshan company, Classic FM to broadcast 18 hours a day. The state- 4 The winner will be announced in the coming Jis Desh Mein Ganga Rehta Hai - owned radio’s Shailendra Raj Sharma defended their decision issue. saying that the contract with HITS had expired and the company 5 The prize has to be collected from Kumari (414932), Goon (Ka) (520668) Himalmedia within a week of the announce- Jurassic Park - Padma had not bid for an extension. “How can we give air time to a Across 48 Colours changing… (3) ment. 29Please Ash come vase with (3) an ID. Phir Bhi Dil He Hindustani - party that didn’t even bid?” he asked. 1 Miffed at being hit (4) 50 Chinese math symbol? (4) 30 A long, long way to go (3) Manakamana HITS FM 100 started broadcasting four years ago and had 5 US ship (3) 51 Shaft (4) 31 Leo’s bullfight cheer (3) Shikari - Plaza I managed to gain a popular following among the valley’s young- 8 Accountant (3) 52 Small world after all (3) 32 Edge (3) Online bookings at sters. HITS FM also established a music award and had a chatty 11 Partial ASEAN (4) 53 Ancient Peruvian (4) 33 Comes before the egg (3) tone that was later copied by other FM broadcasters. The 12 Looked (3) 54 Control, Alt, (3) 35 Small time (6) 38 Hid this insect? (3) MUSIC company now plans to install its own transmitter within two 13 Leave it (4) 55 Mo. (3) Jazz-Live jazz by Cadenza at 14 Missing in saint (4) 56 Sage gets older (4) 39 Is this singer a prick?(5) months and broadcast on FM 91.2. Upstairs Restaurant, Lazimpat. Every 15 Jumbled with tea (3) DOWN 40 Pennies (5) Saturday 7:30-10:00 pm. 16 Desire to recommend (4) 41 Regions in sq km (5) 1 Low and profundo (5) -Robin n’ Looza play 17 More normal? (5) 42 East-south-east (3) Rock and blues 2 Jacob’s Dad (5) their selection of rock, blues, soul and 19 747 with front missing (4) 44 Nepal is in South (4) 3 Passing out tactic (5) Nepali numbers every Friday night at 21 Another one of 55 across (3) 45 Pop (3) 94 FM online 4 Karmic feat (4) The Bamboo Club, Thamel. Drink and 22 Strange fairy? (5) 46 Yike! This ain’t an axe. (3) 5 Insult and manipulate (3) “Sacred Valley, Shakti Radio”—the FM radio station that 24 UN body (3) 47 Everyone Al knows (3) dine while you listen. 6 This one has a ring (6) has managed to generate a cult following in a relatively short 27 On top (4) 49 Escudo Dances-Classical Nepali dances 7 Paddled with this saint? (5) 28 Jostle a judge? (5) based on Buddhist and Hindu epics and time with its unique style of presentation and choice of music has 8 Insult a dog? (3) 30 Judge’s strong points (5) the Tantric pantheon, every Tuesday at added another aspect to its services: a live webcast on the 9 One of three swine? (3) 33 Rounded up (6) the Great Pagoda, Hotel Vajra. 7 pm. Rs Internet. 10 Dined and had tea (3) 34 An ET (5) 300. Tel: 271545 The free monthly periodical, www.hbc.com.np, from the 13 Status, or vadis? (3) 35 Lean and not very nice (4) Ballads and Dances of Old Tibet Himalayan Broadcasting Corporation (HBC) features informa- 18 Says sorry to serpent (7) 36 Sleepy rock group? (3) performed by Tsering Gurmey and 20 Be under (7) tive and interactive browsing using an enhanced interactive 37 Defile with paint ? (5) Tsering Paljor every Thursday at the 23 Aurora (3) software called the ‘flash’ technology. 39 Resort uses sap? (3) Naga Theatre, Hotel Vajra. 7 pm. Rs 24 Not even Dod? (3) Currently, the online magazine, already into its second issue, 42 On cable (4) 400. 25 How old? (3) hosts an array of information on philosophy, archival audio and 43 Doesn’t like Mad Hatter (5) Tel : 271545 26 Sick of eating? (3) 45 Said from this pulpit (4) Out of 17 correct entries the mp3 music that can be downloaded. There are also contents on 27 Native American (3) EXHIBITIONS nature and lucky winner is Perry Thapa Art-Exhibition by three Finnish history, science, To send in your entries, please fill in the details below and fax to 977-1-521013, or email to women artists Marjo Yli-Antola, Umppa trends, philoso- [email protected]. Entries can be dropped off at Himalmedia Pvt Ltd, Patan Niinivaara & Marita Mikkonen. Dhoka, Lalitpur. phy, lifestyle, Name...... Siddhartha Art Gallery, Baber Mahal Nepali society, and literature, accompanied by sleek designs and Revisited. 11am - 6 pm. 411122. interactive tools. The text is available in both English and Nepali. Ph...... email...... ADVENTURE SPORTS Says Bibhuti Shrestha, info-tech manager at HBC, “This is Mountain Bike Championship. An our effort to show the rest of the world that Nepal too possesses International Class Mountain Bike the knowledge and ability to produce great websites, so that it Championship in three phases. 11 might encourage the international enterprises to base their web November, Saturday. Registration open companies here and thus contribute to the nation’s economy.” till event eve. MTB theory and practice The station has tied up with Worldlink as its partner in its workshop follows after the championship new endeavour. The live Internet broadcast is done by using a by international cyclists. Surf direct audio feed from HBC to a server at Worldlink, running www.bikingnepal.com or contact Peter ‘Real Server G2’ which is attached to the Internet backbone in Stewart, Race Director at Himalayan the US. himal books Mountain Bikes, Thamel. 427427 The station, known among fans as a music station void of all DINING idle chit-chat and teenage gossip, currently broadcasts 20 hours a Barbecue. Shangri-La Hotel is day with 4 hours of programmes and 16 hours of music ranging hosting barbecue nights for the season from the history of rock and roll, alternative, 16th to present at its prize-winning Shambala Garden. century classical, indigenous, tribal and various other music. Masked dancers of Bhaktapur, Gandharvas and other traditional musicians perform every Tuesday and Friday evening. Steaks of every kind from chicken to wild boar topped with NEPALI WEATHER sauce of choice. 6:30 pm. Tuesday and Friday Rs 850+tax. Rest of the week Rs 750+tax

FESTIVAL Tihar- the festival of lights and firecrackers. Of people, crows, dogs, cows and bulls. The five-day-long colourful festival started 25 October, DSES- 22-10-2000 0600 GMT with the worship of crows, dogs and cows. Crows, in the hope they will always bring good news to the family; dogs, to guard against evil and death; and the cow, as a representation of If you were wondering what is causing these clouds to build up Laxmi, the goddess of wealth. After the over the Himalayan foothills, a satellite image of the water cow, it is the turn of the bull. Two days in vapour content in the atmosphere provides a clue. The Tibetan Tihar are traditionally days of dipawali, plateau and the northern slopes of the Himalaya are blocking when every household light traditional moisture. Some of this escapes southward through gaps in the lamps (diyo) or candles to invite the mountains. However, apart from some snow in the high mountain goddess Laxmi home. Evenings are fun regions down to elevations of 14,500, it isn’t bringing rain. Over for kids who go about singing bhaili and the weekend and into next week, afternoons will continue to be deusi songs, giving blessings and hazy, and inversion will cause clinging smog in Kathmandu collecting money and food in a late night Valley. Worth watching is a cyclone brewing in the Bay of door-to-door celebration. The last day of Bengal, it is going to veer eastwards but will bring fresh Tihar is Bhai Tika (29 Oct), when northwesterly wind, making it colder and clearer later in the sisters pray for the long life and week.KATHMANDU prosperity of their brothers and worship Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue them ritually. A vertical tika of seven colours is put on the forehead by the sistersFOR INCLUSION to protect theirIN THE brothers LISTING from SEND evil 25-11 25-11 25-10 26-10 25-9 INFORMATION TO and Yamaraj—theEDITORS@NEP lordALITIMES.COM of death. Brothers and sister sisters exchange gifts. 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES 19 HAPPENINGS OFF THE BEATEN TREK by SALIL SUBEDI trek off the beaten path can also be a less-ambitious Aone, where you don’t need the paraphernalia of a major expedition. So, if you are the kind whose idea of fun is not the sadomasochistic urge to lug yourself up and down 5,000m passes, and you find yourself in Pokhara and want to get away from lakeside touts for MIN BAJRACHARYA Japanese volunteer R Sugiyama and JICA representative in Nepal, Ken Hasegawa, inspect two days, the Landruk Loop is the choice Thak Khola apples at the Horticulture Centre in Kirtipur this week. trek for you. You start at Phedi on the Pokhara-Baglung road, walk (or rather climb) past Dhampus, take LOOPING LAZILY AROUND a night break in Landruk, climb up to Ghandruk and then turn Sunrise view of Annapurna South (left) and Hiunchuli from your power off and coast down to Landruk. Birethanti without any effort at Seti valleyLANDRUK provide a picturesque there, so for the really good views steady but easy climb later you all. Then take an hour-long taxi foreground to the hills and azure you have to wait till sunrise— reach Pothana, which opens up a ride back to Pokhara. sky to the south. Another two and that is a view worth waiting vista of the Annapurnas and The difficult part is getting hours of this and you are already for. Machhapuchhare. A look back up at dawn in Pokhara, swallow- in Dhampus. Mountain weather From Dhampus onwards, the down at the trail you’ve walked ing some “subcontinental being what it is, it may have rhododendron forest opens up provides a great sense of achieve- MIN BAJRACHARYA chiura and omelette Prime Minister Girija Koirala arrives at the Raddison Hotel for a conference on the breakfast” ( clouded up by the time you get more. An hour and a half of a ment. Millenium Summit and Its Relevance to Nepal organised by the Nepal Council of washed down by tea) to take the After Pothana you are on the World Affairs on 24 October. buses bound for Baglung. If you other side of the mountain, on the don’t mind a splurge you could trail north towards Pittim take the taxi to Phedi. Deurali, a 45-minute walk. You The trail doesn’t make it easy pass waterfalls and rhododen- for you: it climbs steeply right dron forests to reach Tolka, away but since it is early morning climbing down a path laid out the climb is quite bearable. And like a staircase. From here, the true to the adage: the early tourist path winds in and out with the gets the view, you get some good contours of the mountainside scene-scenery (as we Nepalis like and before long you are in to call it) whenever you stop to Landruk, just in time for some catch your breath. Although steep, noodle soup made by the sauni of the path climbs through forest a local tea shop. and the sun rarely gets through Landruk these days is looking the canopy. like Zermatt in the tourist season, MIN BAJRACHARYA Swiss geographer Toni Hagen is felicitated on the 50th anniversary of his arrival in Nepal After you cross the forest, the and the restaurants are clean by the Tibetan Community in Kathmandu on 25 October. Also in the picture: Samdup air is crisper and the smell and with patios where you can have Lhatse, Dharmasala’s representative in Kathmandu and Mrs Hagen. sight of golden rice fields in the The golden paddy fields of Dhampus with Nau Danda in the back- lime juice in the sun. And like the hotels of Zermatt give you great views of Matterhorn, almost every room in the lodges of Landruk have window seats looking out at Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. You can also admire the views while walking along the paths as the first rays of the sun catch the tops of the Annapu-rnas. premium Our trail now loops down to the Modi Khola and up to the incredibly clean and friendly Gurung village of Ghandruk. The climb is quite stiff, and there is always a temptation to head further north towards Chomrong and Ghorepani. But we have to get back to Pokhara, and this is only a two-day trek, remember? So reluctantly you head down. You can stop by to check out the famous Gurung Museum in Ghandruk which has a collection of artefacts—weapons, clothing, utensils and household goods used by the Gurungs, and dating back to the last century. Enjoy a good dollop of traditional millet dhindo to give you enough energy for the three-hour descent to Birethanti and you’re off. You plunge past fields, rivers, forests and lose altitude so fast it almost makes your ears pop. Syauli Bazar, about an hour’s walk ahead before reaching Birethanti, remains a perfect place to ease back and have a final snack before you get back to asphalt. The green fields, the sound of the river and the tea is your final parting to this simple yet exhilarating trek and also to face the gauntlet of taxi drivers coaxing you to take their vehicle back down to Pokhara. 20 LAST WORD 27 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2000 NEPALI TIMES

comes and they have to appear on Ko Banneho Arabpati, they can NEPALI SOCIETY Under My Hat hit the ground trotting and be showered with riches beyond their wildest dreams. The questions are cleverly designed in such a way by Kunda Dixit that they not only test general knowledge, but also force contestants to ask serious questions about Nepal’s burning problems of today: ow that Nepal’s national treasure, Manisha Koirala, is Q: Nepal is a landlocked Himalayan kingdom situated between … hosting India’s latest quiz show, Sabal Das Croreka, we and... Nhope there will be no more major gaffes in questions about a) Rock and Hard Place, b) Devil and Deep Blue Sea, c) Yam and Nepal. And to improve the general knowledge of Nepalis, and to Another Yam, d) Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere train future politicians, we hear Nepal Television is soon starting Q: The Tribhuvan International Airport is actually: our own indigenous quiz show called Ko Banneho Arabpati? After a) A vermiculture farm, b) A bird sanctuary, c) Where dogs learn to all, with the many similarities between Who Wants To Be a fly, d) Training centre for smugglers Millionaire and the business of politics this could be an ideal method of training future politicos. Quiz shows and politics are Q: Kathmandu’s garbage problem can be easily solved by: both populated by cerebrally-challenged individuals who regularly a) Asking every tourist to take back 5 kg as a souvenir, b) Opening a appear on television to answer earth-shaking questions like: In the landfill site inside Singha Durbar, c) Generating hydropower by using trash to dam our rivers, d) Dumping it on the Ko Banneho Arabpati? runway at TIA Q: The best way to defend the sanctity of the country’s borders is to: a) Play dead, b) Generate revenue by selling ammunition to the Hizbollah, c) Adhere to the five principles of in 1978. He joined the Central peaceful co-existence, d) Move border pillars when no Committee of the Nepal one is looking Workers’ and Peasants’ Party Q: The recent fuel price hike is a symbol of the Koirala Mayor Suwal (NWPP) as a member in 1991 regime’s anti-poor policies. We can fight it by: and worked as its secretary a) Oganising torch processions using fossil fuels, b) ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ from 1994-1996. Steeped in film, Titanic, what or who is the Titanic? a) The iceberg, b) Kate Declare a two-year protest bandh, c) Use electricity to incinerate ayor Prem Suwal of cities tends to be driven by politics, his affiliation with the Winslett’s nickname, c) A large man-eating dinosaur, or d) effigies of the prime minister, d) Take a 12-member delegation to Bhaktapur isn’t the megalomania (check out the NWPP would one day make Margaret Thatcher. Kuwait to have a chat with the sheikh. Mkind of mayor that one would monstrous building the him mayor of the city he loves There is another parallel between quiz shows and politics: the expect to meet in a city with a municipality of Patan built for so much. intention in both is to become stupendously rich as fast as possible. success story to relate. He itself). An important feature is And the beauty of it is that you don’t really need to know anything, doesn’t go around in a fancy “The hardest part was Suwal’s move to make the city’s you can always phone a friend or bring a brain. Now that NTV is car, and he doesn’t make making people understand why activities transparent. The city getting into the act, attached herewith is a list of sample questions reckless promises. Being down makes public even the minutest that prospective participants can practise on so that when the day we needed to preserve what is to earth is his style. left, that it wasn’t just my city details of its financial state- Running a city that is a or your city but our city. Once ments. Last year, the Berlin- living museum and heritage site they understood this, everybody based Transparency Interna- is one thing, being successful at cooperated,” explains Suwal, tional awarded Bhaktapur the preserving the cultural tradi- letting us in on the secret of his title of ‘Island of Integrity’ at tions is quite another. success. the international anti-Corrup- Bhaktapur has been acclaimed The mayor is modest, as we tion Conference in Durban. It for its conservation efforts. soon find out. An intermediate seems municipality officials This is thanks not just to the in mechanical engineering, and citizens of Patan and motivated citizens of Suwal’s political career took Kathmandu have a lot to learn Bhaktapur, but also to the root when he joined the Nepal from Bhaktapur. municipality which in other Revolutionary Students Union

Ambassador vodka mayo

0.74 0.37 0.40 0.22 0.37 0.04 53.85 0.65 0.31 0.56 0.33 0.18 0.02 44.46 0.65 0.37 0.57 0.28 0.14 0.05 46.42 0.25 0.28 0.40 0.30 0.42 0.21 11.82 0.42 0.44 0.52 0.23 0.12 0.03 57.45 0.76 0.38 0.63 0.24 0.20 0.03 79.33 0.65 0.38 0.54 0.33 0.18 0.08 73.50 All prices are in US dollars, collected from informal sources, and are only indicative.