DOCKERS at 30 the Brand That Became Synonymous with “Casual Friday” Marks Three Decades
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Fashion. Beauty. Business. JAN 2016 No. 4 Power, Politics & Polish The worlds of politics, entertainment, fashion and beauty are all in a day’s work for actress Kerry Washington. NEW YORK’S MOMENT Men’s designers get set for the second round of their own fashion week in New York. Agenda, p. 10 REBEL, REBEL A dark sensibility mixed with unapologetic youth energizes the Paris men’s shows. Features, p. 62 DOCKERS AT 30 The brand that became synonymous with “casual Friday” marks three decades. WWD Milestones, p. 35 US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $14 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Miles Socha EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS MANAGING EDITOR, OPERATIONS Diana Benbasset DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins BEAUTY Fatima Rizwan DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman Ellen Thomas NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Kayana Cordwell PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand SENIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown The Feature PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK The Paris Trends COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, 62 A dark sensibility was the overriding Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION theme at the Paris men’s collections, DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin yet rich textures such as fur and velvet, WWD.COM DIGITAL DIRECTOR Danica Lo graphic plaids and an unapologetic rebel ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond youth attitude brought new light to the WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Pooja Bhaskar always-chic French capital. INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni Louis Vuitton tapped into the fur trend. Photograph by ALFREDO PIOLA Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Rachael DeSantis Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 A look from Dockers. EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac CONGRATULATIONS TO “Our peaks of success are from really listening to DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer our guy — where he’s going, what his needs are DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti and what has changed.” — Lisa Collier, Dockers AUDIENCE MARKETING VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy WWD Milestones: Dockers at 30, page 35 CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott AND OPERATIONS DEPARTMENTS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES 6 Social Studies SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi The best and worst in social SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh media, what’s trending, ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch Agenda PRODUCTION whom to follow. PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley ON CELEBRATING 30 YEARS PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao 8 The Essentialist SUMMITS & EVENTS A digest of the week’s VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher top stories. DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle 10 DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert Men’s designers get 29 Eye EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING set for New York . • Parties A slew of stars FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC and children-of made the Six models to watch. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore rounds at Sundance. FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR • Report Card Pippa OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer bundles up in Switzerland, DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Rita hangs on by a thread and Tina Fey gets points for accuracy. Washington’s • Arts & Culture Jack Quaid, WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Heights 22 son of Dennis Quaid and Jay Penske Politics, Hollywood, Meg Ryan, is ready to break CHAIRMAN & CEO fashion and beauty out in HBO’s rock ’n’ roll VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne are all in a day’s work series, “Vinyl.” EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar for Kerry Washington. STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault 74 The Splashy Mr. Bashford BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Remembering the colorful San GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene Francisco men’s wear retailer SVP HUMAN RESOURCES VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson Wilkes Bashford. VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West The Best of Report Card, VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen Berlin 26 page 31. DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Fashion week in DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci CONTROLLER Young Ko the German capital SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, showed a slew of arty, Derek Ramsey eclectic style. DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus ON THE COVER DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Kerry Washington photograph by ART STREIBER & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson Men’s Fashion photograph by SHAWN BRACKBILL SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber Ryan Ramos WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 4. Wednesday, January 27, 2016. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth week in December, with TO CONTACT WWD one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich- EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes