Getting READY for the TRIP

Before leaving for the Mediterranean coast, I can browse through a Web travel book allowing me to explore the region through five routes: canals and rivers, nature, heritage, archaeology and the art of living. Craftspeople, artists, video-makers, illustrators and graphic designers all share their own personal vision of the region. This way I can calmly review all of this from home: Short videos about natural and historical sites but also about the environment. Drawings by artists with back-ground sounds from various sites and some interviews. Photo slide shows with exclusive shots.

Did you know you’re embarking on a one-of-kind experience in ? www.voyages-en-narbonnaise.com Okay, here I GO ! On the road to La Narbonnaise, Surprenante Méditerranée, I find tools at hand to help understand the history of this magical region.

The Explanatory Mini videos: understand Cultural Centres Totems it all in 1 minute and 30 seconds Around twenty works of art in corten These videos are highly educational and These are centrally-located areas steel can be found around the Nar- understandable for the whole family. to discover individual route the- bonne Region. They are located wit- They can be seen using the site: mes: nature, archaeology, canals… hin the most remarkable sites and visit-lanarbonnaise.com Each time, visitors will find a mo- provide information regarding the dern, fun and instructive museum heritage as well as show mini-videos area for more detailed historical facts.

2 Right, I’m ready to EXPLORE La NARBONNAISE, Surprenante Méditerranée

I decided to explore this destination as I only really knew the coastline and its 50km of fine-sand beaches. When I go swimming in the sea what I love is interchangeable background – sometimes there’s a cliff or chalets, the Clape mountain range, or the salterns … and the seaside resort towns are all reasonably sized, festive and fun.

Here I find the coastline is really special as nature has been preserved, giving it a slightly wild side…most probably as it’s content been protected by the Regional Narbonne-Mediterranean Nature PAGE of this Reserve for over twenty years. I can feel this almost primitive GUIDE nature when wandering around the lagoons or in the massifs. Narbonne cannot only be admired for its nature and exceptional Page 5 landscapes and biodiversity as its history is just as astonishing Heritage Route and picturesque, with an intermingling of civilisations since The wild stones ancient times. I’m in fact surprised to learn that Narbonne was Page 8 the capital of a Roman settlement going from the Pyrenees Archaeological Route to the Alps … and it was also the second largest western Antiquity Unveiled Mediterranean port. While visiting, I’m often struck by the huge Page 12 remaining middle age structures such as the Archbishop’s Palace Canals and Rivers Route and Narbonne Cathedral, Fontfroide Abbey … and the canals! Stones and Water Did you know that there isn’t one but three? They are all listed Page 16 as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. My route is certainly full of Nature Route surprises. Salty or Fresh ?

Page 20 Lastly what I love is the ambiance you find in the surrounding Art of Living Route villages, the genuineness of its inhabitants, especially the Inspired and Local Lives producers (wine-makers, olive-growers, oyster-farmers, fishermen, etc) who love sharing their regionally-based passions. Narbonne boasts the Vignobles & Découvertes label, a well- Photos : Claude Cruells, Jean Belondrade, deserved acknowledgement for the quality activities proposed Emmanuel Perrin, Christophe Baudot, Gilles Deschamps, Nomah, and the tailor-made accommodation offered in this wine-growing The City of Narbonne. Illustrations : region. Laurent Bonneau, Laurence Malherbe, Marine Saunier With my Smartphone in my pocket, my adventure can start... 3 THE LEADING HERITAGE SITES TO SEE

UNIQUE STRUCTURAL ENSEMBLE IN NARBONNE The Archbishop’s Palace and the Saint-Just and Saint-Pasteur Cathedral are part of an exceptional complex of monuments which is unique in France and can only be compared to the Pope’s Palace in Avignon. They are the patrimonial heart of Narbonne on the banks of the Robine Canal and the Via Domitia, where passers-by can casually admire the ruins. The surrounding secular architecture is admirable with its blocks of ancient reused stone, its fine radiant Gothic touch in the cathedral and the cloisters, but also the modifications undertaken by Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century.

FONTFROIDE ABBEY Tucked away in a wild massif (and listed as a UNESCO Heritage Site), this abbey enchants visitors with it extremely modest architecture. It’s recommended to have a tour-guide to learn everything possible about its fascinating past, but visitors can also borrow a tablet for a multimedia tour.

A GOOD DEAL : The Billet Pass ANTIQUITY IN NARBONNE : is valid for 15 LAPIDARY MUSEUM, ROMAN HORREUM days and gives access to all AND THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM the Narbonne In Narbonne there are no arenas, no temples and no forums… monuments and and yet the city was packed with prestigious antique museums. monuments. It was Narbo Martius, the capital of the largest settlement outside of Italy and the second largest port of the Mediterranean. An immense port where merchandise was routed through from all around the Mediterranean. Today this unsung history can be seen at the Lapidary Museum, where hundreds of sculpted stone blocks are stored, along with an archaeological museum boasting some incredible Pompeian frescos and the Horreum, an underground gallery used to store merchandise. All this is waiting for the planned 2019 opening of the Regional Museum of Antique Narbonne.

THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUMS OF AND PEYRIAC-DE-MER On the banks of the Bages-Sigean lagoon, you’ll find two great little museums where you can step back in time even before the Romans had settled in Narbonne. The Elisyques were autochthonous people with a kingdom full of oppida (villages of the time), who were already trading with all the other populations of the Mediterranean: Greeks, Etruscans, Iberians but some of their traits seem to resemble that of the Celts. A mysterious history indeed to unfold.

4 Find the top 10 heritage sites on : visit-lanarbonnaise.com HERITAGE ROUTE The WILD STONES

5 HERITAGE ROUTE The THE ROMAN CHURCH OF WILD SAINT-JEAN L'ÉVANGELISTE in STONES In the heart of the Côteaux de Narbonne wine-growing region, Ouveillan is a typical Languedoc village with its wine-maker homes and medieval remnants. A real Hidden in a lush green setting at the bottom of a cliff or in the thumbs up for this beautiful Norman church. middle of a vineyard … the stones reveal their secrets to all those wanting the truth to be unfolded.

THE BOUSSECOS TOWER in Bize-Minervois I’m starting my trip along the Cesse River, in the heart of the Minervois region. It’s here that I witnessed my first wild stones with this small unusual fort built on a rocky promontory. This very ancient tower is thought to date back to Visigoth, Roman or even pre-historic times. All plausible theories … the totem is located in the village.

THE FORMER CORBIÈRES BORDER THE SAINT-LAURENT CHAPEL in near I’m here in a village inhabited by a hundred souls nestled I feel particularly moved when approaching this small between several mountains. The inhabitants relate the story of a Norman chapel in the middle of the vineyards as this forgotten border … it’s incredible to imagine that 350 years ago, site is quite simply magical. people entered into the Kingdom of Aragon right about here. Today, it’s where the cultural Occitania border ends …

THE CASTELLAS in Montredon-des-Corbières At the entrance of the Fontfroide massif, I notice the ruins of a 9th century castle, also called “Saint-Pierre-des-Clars”.

THE FONTCALVY BARN near Ouveillan Not far from the village I’m drawn by the silhouette of a strange- NOTRE-DAME-DES-OUBIELS looking building. A church? A castle? No, it’s actually a fortified in Portel-des-Corbières barn! It was built by the Fontfroide Abbey monks in the 13th I go even further on my trip into the heart of the century to protect their harvests: olives, wine, salt, cereals. Corbières and find an unbelievably reposing site: a magnificent Gothic church half in ruins. From the shade of the olive trees I look out over the vineyards and listen to the sounds of the close-by Berre River. The poetry of this secluded spot is astounding.

6 CASTLE The panorama from the Leucate uplands just takes my breath away with the sea, the lagoon, an oyster park, Corbières and even the Canigou Mountain, the highest peak of the Pyrenees. Not surprising that this 360° promontory had an immense fortified castle built atop, like the Vauban … today in ruins! The SAINT-MARTIN explanatory totem is located in Port-Leucate. CHAPEL in Roquefort-des-Corbières The Saint-Martin chapel offers an incredible panorama over the village and its surroundings: the ‘Roque’ cliff, the windmills, the Serre and still further out … the Mediterranean. This stop also allows me to grab a little shade under the beautiful trees. From here I can start hiking to discover the pastoral life of bygone days.

THE CHURCHES OF NARBONNE Narbonne is a city of over 2000 years-old. During the middle ages, it was a major cultural and religious hub with its acclaim going beyond the French borders. When strolling along the streets, I FONTFROIDE ABBEY feel this powerful influence from the past. It’s even near Narbonne quite usual to walk in front of discrete porches of My walk leads me to the majestic former churches given the city has nearly eighteen Fontfroide Abbey. Built by Cistercian monks in its centre. In a thousand years I wouldn’t miss in 1093 it’s been brilliantly preserved over the opportunity of visiting the Saint-Just and Saint- the centuries: the cloisters, the refectory Pasteur Cathedrals as well as the Saint Paul-Serge and the gardens are pure architectural Collegiate Church. wonders. I find a marvellous scenic view from the abbey’s highest point set smack in the heart of a listed natural site.

THE REDOUTE OF LA FRANQUI in Leucate Finally … I find the Mediterranean again! That beautiful blue and the Narbonne coast are just divine from this remarkable edifice which looks somewhat like a Greek temple … but since Leucate comes from the Greek Leukos (white), is this really the fruit of my imagination?

Explanatory totems + info : see p. 3 7 ARCHAEOLOGICAL ROUTE ANTIQUITY UNVEILED

8 Here’s an opportunity to unveil the ancient secrets of Narbonne: the Elisyques, autochthonous people from the Iron Age, to the Romans, builders of the Narbo Martius, capital and second largest western Mediterranean port…

ANTIQUE VINEYARDS It was indeed the Romans who created and developed the vineyards here such a very long time ago. This wine-making region had quite a reputation with some wines even being imported by the rich citizens of Rome … just like the honey which is made here.

LAPIDARY MUSEUM in Narbonne VIEW OVER Within the nave of the Notre-Dame-de-Lamouguier THE FORMER GULF church, I find myself in a labyrinth of sculpted stones depicting vegetables, animal heads … and men. From the uplands of the Clape or Corbières massifs, I can see the This lapidary collection from the Roman times is the large Bages-Sigean lagoon. Before closing up, it was a peaceful gulf largest in France. which opened up onto the sea where the ancient ships would unload their merchandise coming from all around the Mediterranean.

AMPHORALIS at Sallèles-d' In the middle of the vineyards, not far from the Jonction Canal, a wonderful little Gallo- Roman potters’ village was discovered. It appears the Romans needed a huge number of amphorae to transport all the wine produced here … as well as other goods!

THE CAYLA OPPIDUM in Before the arrival of the Romans in 118 B.C., the region belonged to the Elisyques … They lived in villages called ‘oppida’ and traded with everyone around the Mediterranean. Just above Mailhac, the Cayla oppidum kept a close eye over the major trade routes towards the Minervois.

Explanatory totems + info : see p. 3 9 ARCHAEOLOGICAL ROUTE ANTIQUITY UNVEILED LA NAUTIQUE EXCAVATIONS MILLITARY MILESTONES in Narbonne AT LA CLOTTE It’s here along the lagoon shore that recently the fascinating history in Roquefort-des-Corbières of Narbo Martius and its port have been unveiled. Archaeologists It’s a well-known fact that the Romans were great have brought to light a complex port system which spread over 60 builders and their immense empire was connected km² composed of outer harbours and wharfs of which the largest by an incredibly sophisticated roadway network, is located here at La Nautique. I try to imagine the busy dancing marked by milestones every approximately 1 and around of Roman galleys within this port which was the second a half kilometres. So what are several milestones largest after Rome …. The excavations can be visited during the doing in the very same place near Roquefort-des- European Heritage Days. Corbières? I learn that it was during the middle ages that these milestones were actually part of an THE PECH MAHO OPPIDUM agricultural settlement … in Sigean Mediterranean trade didn’t start during the Roman times. The Elisyques had already woven strong ties with the Etruscans, the Greeks and the Iberians. Their trading post, Pech Maho, was mysteriously destroyed just before the arrival of the Romans … a fascinating history to discover at the Corbières Museum in Sigean.

SAINTE-LUCIE AND SAINT-MARTIN ISLANDS in Port-la-Nouvelle and My route finished between what were once islands. Saint Martin and Sainte Lucie belonged to the complex port of Narbo Martius, the first being a Port Authority and the second was a wharf and stone VIA DOMITIA quarry. Today, like 2000 years ago, this landscape in Roquefort-des-Corbières and Narbonne set between land and sea is just breathtaking. The ideal place to contemplate vestiges of its Roman past is the Via Domitia, set in the heart of Narbonne for all passers-by to admire. Nevertheless, visitors can find some more discrete traces such as seeing ruts caused by millions of wheels having travelled by here many centuries ago …

10 Explanatory totems + infos : see p. 3 CULTURAL CENTRE

AMPHORALIS GALLO-ROMAN POTTERS MUSEUM The museum, boasting spectacular views overlooking the archaeological remains, is both a centre for experimental archaeology and a place for visitors to explore and learn. Outdoor walkways through the museum park lead to reconstructions of several kilns and a house, built identically to the remains which were found. The potter’s garden borders this house, with over 160 pieces which could have existed during the Antiquity. A stroll in the arboretum allows visitors to discover the wood essences used at that time for firing and to understand the natural regeneration of forests.

3 GOOD REASONS TO VISIT AMPHORALIS

Entertainment and workshops Lead the investigation along See an archaeological site all year long with the potter’s son. A digital come to life thanks to virtual game created for youngsters reality 11 www.amphoralis.com - Tél. +33 (0)4 68 46 89 48 - Allée des potiers - 11590 Sallèles-d’Aude - Prices : 5 € / 3 € ROUTE OF CANALS AND RIVERS OF STONES and WATER

12 Forget the maps and sail endlessly into a landscape imagined by Man … sometimes with curves, sometimes straight, these rivers and canals have just one objective … to reach the sea … Boat rides and fabulous sensations drifting along water courses.

THE MARMITES DE LA CESSE in Bize-Minervois In the heart of the Minervois, I drift along the Cesse upstream and discover incredible potholes which were dug out by this fresh-water river over thousands of years. The Cesse works its ways from the Black Mountain up until the Aude. Further along, the village Bize- Minervois is irrigated by an impressive hydraulic network (flumes and other small canals).

THE SOMAIL HAMLET A short hop away and here I am in Somail, one of the major stops along the Canal du Midi since its construction in the 17th century. Travellers on mail barges made halts here for their evening meal and accommodation. It’s one of the best preserved rare-architectural ensembles from this time with a THE CESSE WATER BRIDGE chapel, inn, guard house, cold room… in Mirepeïsset Continuing along the Cesse, I come across a surprising structure: a very ancient water bridge. From the river banks I feel like I’m watching boats fly by … when in fact they are peacefully sailing along the Canal du Midi. Built in 1690, this bridge replaces a curved dam originally designed by Riquet, but too fragile when facing the impressive floods of the Cesse. It’s one of the most beautiful structures of its kind with its three wide arches.

THE JONCTION CANAL I leave the Royal Canal and head towards Sallèles- d’Aude to follow along another canal with a slightly- THE GAILHOUSTY SPILLWAY different atmosphere. It’s straight, raised with in Sallèlles-d'Aude locks located close to one another (7 in 5 km) and The Jonction Canal begins with a fantastic monument – the Gailhousty bordered by beautiful umbrella pines. And it’s thanks spillway. Its aim was to direct any excess water from the nearby to this last-built canal that Narbonne was able to be Aude to the Capestang pond. On its pediment are the coat-of-arms connected to the Canal du Midi in 1787, allowing for of Monsignor Dillon, the Archbishop of Narbonne, who was one of the an incredible economic growth in the 19th century major fountainheads for building the Canal. (through the wine trade)…

Explanatory totems + infos : see p. 3 13 ROUTE OF CANALS AND RIVERS OF STONES MANDIRAC AND ITS SHIPYARD and in Narbonne WATER After having crossed Narbonne, the Robine winds around a little like its ancestor the Atax River THE RIVER FORK (Aude) and laces over the Narbonne marshes. Just in Sallèles-d'Aude and Moussan around a small road heading to Gruissan, I arrived in At the crossing of the Jonction Canal, the Aude and the Robine there the hamlet of Mandirac on the banks of the canal. is an astonishing site – a river fork. It’s indicated by the Facing me was a large boat being restored and I lock (1686) whose large gates served as “protective ramparts” for the realized I was on a shipyard, totally unique in its city of Narbonne. kind.

THE LORRAINE AND ALSACE QUAYS in Narbonne THE JOURRE STREAM Once in Narbonne, I jumped back in time to the in Raïssac-d'Aude 19th century when these two quays were at the If the canals are the major waterways of the Narbonne region, this heart of the economic and trade activity of the area also has many rivers and streams. They all ultimately join city. At that time Narbonne was one of the most the Mediterranean and offer unexpected, bucolic and charming important cities in France for its wine trade and the landscapes. For the fun I decided to make a detour by Raïssac- quays were lined with distilleries, barrel-makers, d’Aude for a stroll on the banks of the Jourre stream. brickworks, wine warehouses, etc. Traditionally- style buildings contrasting with the Bourgeois homes built on the Merchant Bridge. THE SAINTE-LUCIE REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE in Port-la-Nouvelle Just before reaching the sea, this route leads me to a true wonder of nature: Sainte Lucie. This nature reserve vaunts a variety of typically Mediterranean settings with beaches, dunes, salty or brackish wetlands, garrigues (regional heath land), pine forests … boasting a most exceptional fauna and flora. I can walk around on foot or by bike in a few hours. The totem is located in the village on the port docks.

PORT-LA-NOUVELLE This is where the Robine canal ends, in a seaside and port village facing the Mediterranean. I love watching the ballet of small and large boats moving incessantly through the channel and I let my feet guide me to the emblematic lighthouse. I feel like I’m more in the sea than on land!

14 Explanatory totems + infos : see p. 3 CULTURAL CENTRE THE MAISON BONNAL CANALS HOUSE AND SOMAIL TOURIST OFFICE It’s in this former wine-making estate along the banks of the Canal du Midi that the Canal and River Cultural Centre has set-up shop! It enables visitors to understand in a fun and interactive way the history of the three Narbonne canals. There is an audiovisual terminal showing short videos and a large table with a map displaying the 40 sites and leading engineering structures which can be individually highlighted by sliding a tablet over the chosen locations. Even better than the cinema, a room lets visitors travel in time to learn more about how the three canals were built as well as the travels of an English tourist during the 18th century … and some really memorable anecdotes to boot! The Bonnal House is also the Somail Tourist Office. It’s a welcoming environment where all information is provided regarding helpful tips to discover the canals and the Narbonne region.

3 GOOD REASONS TO VISIT THE MAISON BONNAL

Take a look at the map Listen to the anecdotes that A touch screen terminal as depicting the canals up to the 18th century English tourist, well as tourism professionals the sea and click on the Mrs. Cradock, has to tell you are there to provide the best leading sites to visit advice possible to all visitors 15 [email protected] - Tél. +33 (0)4 68 41 55 70 - 168 Allée de la Glacière, 11120 Saint-Nazaire-d’Aude-Free Entry NATURE ROUTE SALTY or FRESHWATER

16 It’s never very far away in Narbonne … but what? Water of course. Everywhere, sea, lagoons, canals and rivers, it shapes the landscapes and provides this exceptional biodiversity within the Narbonne Regional Nature Park along the Mediterranean.

THE AUDE RIVER MOUTH in Fleury d'Aude THE ŒIL DOUX ABYSS in Fleury d'Aude In the heart of the Clape Massif, and part of the Conservatoire du Littoral (Coastal Protection Agency), visitors can see a remarkable emerald- green lake. I’m told that this limestone massif, referred to as karstic, is full of underground caves and tunnels providing freshwater. This lake is in fact a former cave whose walls collapsed … nevertheless this ‘Oeil Doux’ continues to communicate with the sea which is the reason for its brackish water! OEIL DOUX MEANING ‘GENTLE EYE’ IN THE OCCITAN LANGUAGE

I began my Nature Route here and started wondering about the salt content in the water … there is such an intertwined blend of environments: bocage areas with vineyards and damp meadows with lagoons, canals, salt marshes and reed-beds, as well as sand and dune areas. An incredible patchwork of beautiful landscapes all bordering the water. The totem is located in Cabanes de Fleury d’Aude.

BAGES-SIGEAN LAGOON

THE DOUL LAGOON in Peyriac de Mer Here I am in Peyriac-de-Mer! After having winded along a pontoon bridge above the lagoon, I arrived near a strange pond which is in fact the Doul Lagoon. It’s incredibly salty, twice as much as the Mediterranean Sea. I found the explanatory totem in the village centre. In Bages, Peyriac-de-Mer, Sigean, La Nautique and also Port-La-Nouvelle, we always see the same NOTRE-DAME-DES-AUZILS CHAPEL immense lagoon … but never the same scenery! in Gruissan It happens to be one of the largest along this This coastline has endlessly breathless panoramic views! The effort coastline and is distinguished by being dotted with it took to come here on foot is definitely rewarding … just the chapel several islands: the Aute, Nadière, Planasse, Sainte- alone is worth the detour, and I discover around ten paintings of Lucie and is well preserved thanks to the actions shipwrecked boats. They are ex-voto which survivors have donated! undertaken by the Park and its partners. There It’s proof enough that Gruissan has always been a fishing village… are two totems possible: in Bages along the lagoon banks or at Port Mahon in Sigean. Explanatory totems + infos : see p. 3 17 NATURE ROUTE SALTY or FRESHWATER

THE REGIONAL SAINTE-LUCIE NATURE RESERVE in Port-la-Nouvelle So here I am on the Sainte-Lucie peninsula! This peaceful haven for nature and people can be discovered on foot or by bike. It’s packed with varied Mediterranean environments: salt mills, pine forests, tidal marshes, etc. It’s not surprising that there is such a vast biodiversity! The explanatory totem is located in Port-le-Nouvelle.

GRAU DE LA VIEILLE NOUVELLE àt Port-la-Nouvelle Half-way between Gruissan and Port-La-Nouvelle is where the Ayrolle Lagoon naturally passes through on its way into the Mediterranean. It’s well guarded by an 18th century tower built in rocks from Sainte-Lucie. LEUCATE DUNES In the past, fishermen had their huts along this thin strip of sand which separates the sea from the Leucate Lagoon. Today these dunes are slowly returning to their original state thanks to a rehabilitation program. THE ROUET at La Palme While strolling around the Narbonne region, I notice numerous salt mills solely occupied by birds. Today two of them are again operational, one in Gruissan and one in La Palme. I’m given the choice of either visiting them on foot or with a horse-drawn carriage to discover salt-worker know-how dating back a thousand years. I even get to taste some local salt-based products. I wander along the seaside and notice the ancient hydraulic pump which used to bring the seawater up to the mills. It’s called the ‘Rouet’. I discover the explanatory totem at the La Palme salt mills. COUSSOULES BEACH in Leucate Sometimes the seaside can be as wild and natural-looking as the LEUCATE CLIFF lagoons and massifs. Along this fabulous beach which is a haven for This rocky headland juts out over the water and sand yachts, I also notice a multitude of migratory birds. I can also gives me the impression of flying above the sea. I admire and observe the terns which nest here among the salicornia. nevertheless decided to discover the area by boat so as to admire the white cliff and even took a plunge with a diving club to explore the preserved sea beds of the Gulf of Lion Marine Park.

18 Explanatory totems + infos : see p. 3 CULTURAL CENTRE LA CLAPE HOUSE REGIONAL NATURE PARK “Although La Clape appears like miniscule dot on the globe, it becomes a complete world of its own once you come close.” Magali David, the initiator for having this massif listed, voiced these words which perfectly convey the extent to which La Clape is mysterious. There are so many specific features to learn about this area which are well documented in the Maison of La Clape. Visitors can learn from work based on studies undertaken by the Park team, CNRS researchers and the French Navigation Authorities. Young and old can have a fun time learning thanks to instructive nature displays, notably using a 4D film model, allowing to learn more about how the landscapes have evolved … it’s magical!

3 GOOD REASONS TO VISIT THE LA CLAPE HOUSE

An instructive experience to Customized entertainment Helpful tips for walking and understand the surrounding organised by the Park discovering the most beautiful landscapes: 4D-film model Coordinators Network areas of La Clape 19 ART OF LIVING ROUTE INSPIRED and LOCAL LIVES

20 Lounging in the sun, the Mediterranean, heart of the Languedoc, know-how and spectacular light: all the ingredients are there to make the Narbonne region for Epicureanism. A route composed of delicious and artistic excursions. TYPICAL LANGUEDOC VILLAGES in Pouzols-Minervois This last route brings out the epicurean in me … so I decide to take my time and stop in a café, sipping a coffee outside and observing the facades of wine-maker homes, and making conservation with the locals since they always have great stories to tell! Some villages, like Pouzols-Minervois or Gruissan, boast a rather singular spiral shape, like snail shells.

NARBONNE'S COVERED MARKET LES HALLES Here, all the roads of food-lovers lead to Les Halles! On the banks of the Robine Canal, visitors can admire its architecture inspired by the famous Baltard Halles in Paris with its blend of iron, cast ARTWORK IN VINEYARDS iron and glass. Inside, you are hit with a wonderful Contemporary art becomes thoroughly one with the wine-making mélange of colours and fragrances … with the estates. The willowy architecture of wine cellars makes for ideal merchant voices intermingled with Narbonne natives hanging room for paintings and photographs, and the vineyards and tourists. Its endless bustling is contagiously make for perfect backdrops for imposing sculptures (Château de cheerful! , Château de l’Hospitalet).

MEN AND THE SEA in Gruissan The explanatory totem at the Pech des Moulins relates the intimate history that the village of Gruissan has always entertained with the Mediterranean from it vocation to defending the coast to its thousand year-old fishing activity, and of course its long past of seaside tourism. THE GRUISSAN BEACH COTTAGES Being a film-buff, I walk in the footsteps of Béatrice Dalle, strolling among the Gruissan cottages. A tribute to the film 37°2 Le Matin. La Franqui is another beach oozing with retro charm and was a favourite for the native Charles Trenet, as well as Port-La-Nouvelle. TRAIN RIDE to Port-la-Nouvelle This short but noteworthy trip of twenty minutes allowed me to discover the heart of the Bages-Sigean lagoon. Set between Narbonne and Port-La-Nouvelle, this track crosses the lagoon and skirts Sainte-Lucie Island. 21 ART OF LIVING ROUTE INSPIRED and LOCAL LIVES

VILLAGE FESTIVALS

The arrival of spring is synonymous with the first outdoor entertainment. The village centres become decorated with colourful flags and people live outside for the music, theatre and parades. To see: Sol Y Fiesta in Leucate, the Festejades in THE SIGEAN LAC Gruissan, Le Lâcher de Percus in Saint-Pierre-la-Mer (series of After having seen this extensive Narbonne nature, music concerts using percussion instruments) or L’Art et des Mots explored its hidden secrets and discovered its au Bord de l’Eau – an event with artists and literary gathering thousands of light nuances, I feel like an artist’s organised along the sea. soul…which is just as well as contemporary art is omnipresent here with the LAC, (French acronym for Contemporary Art Space) a temple of modern art boasting international exhibits.

THE LEUCATE OYSTER SHACKS It’s inside a mas (Provencal farmhouse) in the middle of this oyster-farming haven that I finally taste the infamous Leucate oysters, directly from the producer to the consumer! These fine, firm cupped BOTANICAL GARDENS OF FONCAUDE oysters have a smooth hazelnut flavour. Being an oyster farmer is usually a family business and they in Feuilla manage to sell nearly 80% of their production here. After all these delicious treats and fiestas, I feel like enjoying In Gruissan visitors also have the possibility of tasting some green activities … near the small village of Feuilla in the deep-sea oysters. heart of the Corbières, visitors, upon prior reservation, can visit an astonishing collection of cacti, succulent and agave plants, … right here in the garrigue*! *typical Languedoc shrubland

ART IN FRAISSE-DES-CORBIÈRES My epicurean stint finishes in yet another temple of contemporary art, the Fraisse-des-Corbières Château. On a 360° panoramic terrace, I relive all these wonderful places I visited in the Narbonne Region – unusual, spectacular and secret … I really 22 have had a Surprenante Méditerranée experience! CULTURAL CENTRE THE PALAIS DES VINS « L’AUDE EN LIBERTÉ » “L’Aude en liberté” is a real ode to the Aude! It’s an exhibit designed by the Federation of Independent Wine-Makers, within a modern, fun and interactive museum focused on regional heritage, cultural legacy but more specifically on its spectacular wine-producing terroirs. Located on the first floor of the Palais du Vin, it boasts diverse aspects, with highlights on the wine- growing profession.

ALSO TO BE VISITED

The olive kingdom …. Come Salt and ancestral know-how. An ageing cellar for wines 80 learn the odyssey of these Learn all about it and even metres underground. wonderful peace trees. taste it within a memorable Terra Vinea natural setting. The Oulibo in Bize-Minervois The Gruissan Salt Mills in Portel-des-Corbières loulibo.com lesalindegruissan.fr terra-vinea.com 23 www.vin-du-palais.com – Tél. +33 (0)4 68 45 67 85 Domaine de St Crescent, 68 av. General Leclerc, 11 100 Narbonne – Free Entry How to come? Where to sleep? What to see? What to do? Find all this information on : VISIT-LANARBONNAISE.FR

A website magazine with ideas All information available in just A virtual tour of the Narbonne for activities, good deals, annual one click: hikes, family activities, region with over 300 photos with highlights, etc … beaches… 360°views.

Everyone had free Wi-Fi !

To view our videos, find restaurant or museum opening times, or quite simply to read your emails … you’ll find outdoor Wi-Fi hotspots in Narbonne and all its surrounding villages.

Do you like La Narbonnaise, Surprenante Méditerranée? Please share your impressions and memories with us.

@EnNarbonnaise

With the financial backing of the European Union