Conservation • Access • Events • Adventure • Safety BY BOATERS FOR BOATERS Jan/Feb 2014
The Top Ten River Stewardship Issues of 2014
American Whitewater Turns 60! Join us as we Celebrate our Rich History and Bright Future! A VOLUNTEER PUBLICATION PROMOTING RIVER CONSERVATION, ACCESS AND SAFETY American Whitewater Journal Jan/Feb 2014 – Volume 53 – Issue 1
Columns 5 The Journey Ahead by Mark Singleton 44 Remembrance: Alan Panebaker 50 Remembrance: Chuck Singer Stewardship 6 Top Ten River Stewardship Issues of 2014 19 Going Big in Vermont by Bob Nasdor & Ryan McCall 21 Join American Whitewater for a Rouge River Trip! Feature Articles History 23 Ask What You Can Do To Your Country by Gary Carlson River Voices 27 Cancelled by Elisha McArthur 38 Passing It On, With a Twist by B. J. Phillips Creeking 32 Finding Adventure on South Boulder Creek by Kevin Cripps Books 42 The Memoirs of Hendri Coetzee by Kara Blackmore
Where will a take you next?
As a core member of Montanans for Healthy Rivers, AW Publication Title: American Whitewater Issue Date: Jan/Feb 2014 has been advocating for protection of rivers like the North Statement of Frequency: Published Bimonthly Fork of Deep Creek (pictured here) by extending Wild and Authorized Organization’s Name and Address: American Whitewater Scenic designation to more rivers in the state, and thorough P.O. Box 1540 Cullowhee, NC 28723 WhiteWater | touring | Fishing · jacksonkayak.com other grassroots strategies (see pg. 9 for more details). Photo by Kevin Colburn PURPOSE The journey ahead
River Stewardship: processes, grassroots advocacy, coalition building, whitewater rivers, as well as river recreation, empowerment of volunteers, public outreach and conservation, access, and safety. This is accomplished his is a big year for American expect these issues to be important themes An Integrated Approach education, and, when necessary, legal action. through our bimonthly AW Jour nal, a monthly e-news, Whitewater: we turn 60! That’s in stewardship and conservation moving americanwhitewater.org, paddling events, educational RIVER ACCESS: To assure public access to whitewater Our mission: “To conserve and restore America’s events, and through direct communication with right, back in 1954 a group of forward. The staff of American Whitewater rivers pursuant to the guidelines published in its whitewater resources and to enhance opportunities the press. conservation-mindedT paddlers saw the plays key leadership roles in these issues to enjoy them safely,” is actively pursued through official Access Policy, AW arranges for river access our conservation, access, safety and education efforts through private lands by negotiation or purchase, Together, AW staff, members, volunteers, and affiliate need to form a national organization open impacting rivers across the country. Our under the umbrella of River Stewardship. The only seeks to protect the right of public passage on all rivers clubs can achieve our goals of conserving, protecting to the needs of the whitewater paddling Top Ten River Stewardship Issues take into national organization representing the interest of and streams navigable by kayak or canoe, encourages and restoring America’s whitewater resources community that would share information consideration a broad geographic cross all whitewater paddlers, American Whitewater is the equitable and responsible management of whitewater and enhancing opportunities to safely enjoy these national voice for thousands of individual whitewater rivers on public lands, and works with government wonderful rivers. on whitewater paddlesport and river section of the country and identify some of agencies and other river users to achieve these goals. enthusiasts, as well as over 100 local paddling AW was incorporated under Missouri nonprofit conservation. The very first American the pressures that our nations’ wild rivers club affiliates. SAFETY: AW promotes paddling safely, publishes corporation laws in 1961 and maintains its principal Whitewater Journal, published in 1955, confront. AW’s River Stewardship program adheres to the four reports on whitewater accidents, maintains a uniform mailing address at PO Box 1540, Cullowhee, NC 28723; starts with this statement: tenets of our mission statement: national ranking system for whitewater rivers (the phone 1-866-BOAT-4-AW (1-866-262-8429). AW is International Scale of Whitewater Difficulty) and tax exempt under Section 501 (c) (3) of the Internal Our stewardship program is made possible CONSERVATION: AW’s professional staff works publishes and disseminates the internationally- Revenue Service. “We are observing in many through on-going membership support. closely with volunteers and partner organizations recognized American Whitewater Safety Code. to protect the ecological and scenic values of all sections of America an almost As we move into the next decade of our whitewater rivers. These goals are accomplished EDUCATION: AW shares information with the explosive development of interest collective history, the staff at American through direct participation in public decision-making general public and the paddling community regarding in whitewater sport and in travel on Whitewater will be pushing for new wilderness waterways. Until recently opportunities to reconnect rivers with American Whitewater these activities have been restricted paddlers, habitat, and local economies. Journal Staff Board of Directors & Staff BOARD of Directors Megi Morishita Megan Hooker to a few hardy individuals who, As we look to the future, we continue to Editor Ambrose Tuscano [email protected] Stewardship Assistant having discovered the rewarding appreciate the importance of rivers and Brent Austin P.O. Box 913, Soda Springs, California 95728 Newport, Oregon Bend, OR e-mail: [email protected] Lexington, KY satisfactions available, have been their role in supporting the health and well megan@americanwhitewater. [email protected] exploring and pioneering with very Cover of the first American Whitewater being of the paddling community. Like our Graphic Design/Production/Photo Editor Megan Seifert org Charlie Walbridge, Honorary Chris Bell little fanfare.” Journal, published in May 1955. founders before us, we continue exploring Assistant Editors Erica J. Seifert, Barry Tuscano [email protected] Carla Miner [email protected] and conserving wilderness waterways. Contributing Writers Bruceton Mills, WV Membership Director Asheville, NC Mark Singleton, Bob Nasdor & Ryan McCall, Gary Carlson, Elisha West Valley City, UT Now, 60 years after this group of pioneers McArthur, Kevin Cripps, B. J. Phillips, Kara Blackmore, Megan Courtney Wilton Hooker, Sue Taft Rich Bowers [email protected] [email protected] identified the need for a national pressure evenly applied over time. Most See you on the river, [email protected] Photo Contributors Portland, OR Bob Nasdor organization serving the interests of of our signature issues have timelines Thomas O’Keefe, Nathan Fey, Chris Ennis, Norman Sims, Bellingham, WA NE Stewardship Director whitewater enthusiasts, American that can be measured in decades. If Casey Byrne, Paul Martzen, Leann Perault, Dave Steindorf, Ed Clark Tom Janney, Ryan McCall, Mark Singleton, Scott Gilbert, Alan BOARD OFFICERS Sudbury, MA Whitewater is still actively sharing this work were easy it would have been Cammack, Brockett Hudson, Kevin Cripps, Bridger Steele, Linda Lincoln, VT [email protected] Tribble, Janet Panebaker, Ryan Mooney, Ohiopyle Adventure [email protected] President: Chris Bell information about whitewater paddling done already. The stewardship of our Photography Thomas O’Keefe and working hard to provide for the whitewater rivers requires balancing many Mark Singleton Trey Coleman Vice President: Courtney Wilton Pacific NW Stewardship Director Events / Advertising Coordinator Jeff Paine conservation and stewardship of rivers competing interests. The secret sauce of Executive Director, American Whitewater phone 828-398-0321 Knoxville, TN Secretary: Susan Hollingsworth Seattle, WA e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Elliott [email protected] that are important to our community. As our stewardship efforts is that we don’t go whitewater paddlers, we know that you away, paddlers show up and engage (often Safety Editor Charlie Walbridge Kent Ford Treasurer: Trey Coleman Jeff Paine Route 1, Box 329F, Bruceton Mills, WV 26525 kent2003@performancevideo. cannot love what you do not understand. much to the chagrin of land managers and e-mail: [email protected] Outreach Director com At Large: Christopher Hest and Asheville, NC It’s our love of whitewater that makes policy makers). It’s this willingness to speak Stewardship Reports Editor Durango, CO Brian Jacobson [email protected] Megan Hooker, [email protected] us such fierce defenders of rivers. This out, in authentic ways, on behalf of the
Missing Copies and Address Changes Christopher Hest Mark Singleton intimate connection to flowing water has rivers we all love and paddle that make us AW STAff Carla Miner, [email protected] [email protected] Executive Director made paddlers an important force in river an influential force in river conservation. American Whitewater is printed by Boyd Brothers Printing, Panama City, Florida. San Francisco, CA Laura Blalock Cullowhee, NC All rights reserved. conservation. Starting back in the mid- Finance Manager [email protected] Susan Hollingsworth Elliott 50s, paddlers played an important role At the core of the American Whitewater Portland, OR Cullowhee, NC Dave Steindorf [email protected] [email protected] California Stewardship Director fighting the development of big western River Stewardship Program is the Kevin Colburn Chico, CA dams. Today our footprint can be seen in understanding that conservation and Brian Jacobson National Stewardship Director [email protected] dam removal efforts often made possible healthy human-powered outdoor Long Creek, SC Black Mountain, NC EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER [email protected] through the hydroelectric licensing recreation are mutually dependent. The opinions expressed in the features and [email protected] process that private dams undertake every Whitewater boaters appreciate natural editorials of American Whitewater are those of Don Kinser Nathan Fey the individual authors. They do not necessarily 30-50 years. landscapes, and those special places Colorado Stewardship Director represent those of the Directors of American [email protected] need conservation-oriented paddlers Whitewater or the editors of this publication. Marietta, GA Longmont, CO On occasion, American Whitewater publishes nathan@americanwhitewater. TOLL FREE NUMBER What has American Whitewater learned to help preserve and protect these official organizational policy statements drafted org 1-866-262-8429 over our collective 60-year history of river treasured natural resources. In this issue and approved by the Board of Directors. These policy statements will be clearly identified. stewardship? It is this: change is hard and of the Journal we explore the Top Ten River does not happen easily, it takes constant Stewardship Issues of the coming year. We
4 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 5 2014 Top Ten Stewardship 1. Wild Olympics
Projects Conservation Initiative by The AW Stewardship Team
wenty-fourteen marks 60 years of American Whitewater. Our Top 10 Projects for this significant anniversary span the country, represent the breadth of our work, Tand will all lead to inspiring paddling trips for current and future generations. We are highlighting these deserving projects, and hope they resonate with you as a member of American Whitewater. In our Top 10 Projects, you’ll see a mix of protecting wild rivers, restoring rivers impacted by dams and floods, and improving public river access. If you don’t see your backyard issue on the list, don’t worry: American Whitewater’s small staff and outstanding volunteers are working hard on over 100 projects at any given time. So here, in no particular order of importance, are our top 10 Stewardship Projects for 2014.
American Whitewater will be working throughout 2014 to permanently protect the Quinault Gorge and many other rivers on the Olympic Peninsula with Wild and Scenic protection. Photo by Thomas O’Keefe
or more than two decades American Whitewater has and Scenic Rivers on the Olympic Penninsula. When Congressman advocated for long-term protection of the spectacular, Dicks retired, we had to work with our coalition partners and a free-flowing rivers of the Olympic Peninsula. Few places new Congressman, Derek Kilmer, to get our bill reintroduced. Fon earth offer the diversity and density of wild rivers that one finds This legislation will be a top priority in 2014 and we are grateful here. In a 1993 issue of the American Whitewater Journal, Gary for the support of the Conservation Alliance and our industry Korb described it as a “whitewater paradise, a land of towering partners who understand the value of resource protection and mountains where rivers drop as much as 5000 feet in twenty the outdoor recreation economy to the region. You can help by Quinault Gorge, Olympic miles on their way to the sea” with more than 70 runs from Class signing our petition, joining the Facebook group, and learning Peninsula, Washington. I to Class VI. With support from two Congressional champions more at wildolympics.org. We will be providing updates through Photo by Thomas O’Keefe for wild rivers, Senator Patty Murray and Congressman Norm the year on how you can help us support this legislation and other Dicks, we successfully introduced legislation in 2012 to establish efforts to designate new Wild and Scenic Rivers across the country. a new Wilderness and Wild and Scenic Rivers bill that would protect 126,661 acres of ancient forests and 464 miles of Wild
Jan/Feb 2014 7 Stewardship 2. Colorado River Access & Flood Recovery 3. Montana Headwaters River Conservation Initiative
St. Vrain River and Trail, Colorado. American Montana offers paddlers a wild landscape Whitewater will be busy with river access riddled with rivers, stalked by bears, and throughout Colorado in 2014, including steeped in scenic beauty. The Middle Fork restoring public access to rivers that were of Birch Creek is just one example. AW aims impacted by the severe flooding in 2013. to protect some of the state’s best rivers Photo by Nathan Fey through Wild and Scenic River designations. Photo by Chris Ennis
iver Access will be another hot-button issue in Colorado few protections already in place for the state’s headwaters and ontana boasts a spectacular array of free-flowing community river forums, and one-on-one conversations that this year, and the impacts from September’s floods are whitewater parks. Additionally, existing riverside trails and access rivers, many of which remain at risk of hydropower we’ve engaged in so far, our coalition will be crafting Wild and presenting additional hurdles to ensuring safe public points along several of Colorado’s Front Range creeks, such as development, oil and gas development, or other Scenic Rivers legislation in 2014 that makes sense for Montana Raccess to the state’s whitewater runs. Two proposed ballot Boulder Creek, and the Saint Vrain River, have been destroyed by Mgame-changing impacts. The state’s only four Wild and Scenic and has broad support. We aim to protect a significant number initiatives have resurfaced in Colorado that, if passed, would re- heavy flooding. It is our priority to see that safe public access is Rivers were designated way back in 1976. American Whitewater of the state’s and the nation’s most beautiful rivers for current write the State’s water law system, and threaten all valid existing restored to flood-damaged areas, and that paddlers and private is a core member of a coalition developing a grassroots plan and future generations to enjoy. We’ll need the support of every water rights—including municipal and agricultural uses as well landowners continue to work together to promote cooperative for conserving Montana’s last best rivers. We call our group paddler that has a connection with the rivers of Montana, and as environmental Instream Flows and Recreational In-Channel solutions to river access conflicts that provide certainty Montanans for Healthy Rivers. We’ve been working for the past all their friends. Check out the initiative at www.healthyriversmt. Diversions (RICDs). American Whitewater is working to ensure and flexibility beyond what proposed Public Trust Initiatives three years to build an ever-growing community of support around org, and “like” Montanans for Healthy Rivers on Facebook. There that the public is fully aware of how such sweeping changes to can provide. the concept of new Wild and Scenic designations for streams on will be significant opportunities in 2014 to recommend rivers for Colorado’s system of water rights administration may impact the public lands, paired with incentives and support for voluntary designation and to support those recommendations. A big shout river conservation and restoration initiatives on private lands. out to Patagonia for supporting our role in this project, along with Based on the results of the many workshops, outreach events, our members and donors.
8 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 9 4. Connecticut River at Turners Falls & Stewardship Bellows Falls 5. River Management on National Forests in NC, CA, and ID
Paddlers know places like the Gragg Prong of Wilson Creek (NC) like few oth- er people, and we are currently advocat- American Whitewater will be working to restore paddling ing that the Forest Service offer special opportunities along New England’s Connecticut River, places like this interim protection under including those at Rock Dam near Turner’s Falls, MA. the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. Photo credit: Norman Sims, Appalachian Mountain Club Photo by Casey Byrne
orest planning is a big deal for river add to the river pages on our website of core volunteers. There us no substitute merican Whitewater has continuing down through Turners Falls relicensing process, FERC has directed management and conservation. In to advocate that specific whitewater for local participation. Your knowledge of been working in the Northeast in Massachusetts. At Bellows Falls and the licensees, TransCanada and FirstLight, recent years, American Whitewater rivers are special and deserve interim the rivers in your backyard can lead to their to restore sections of the Turners Falls, the natural river channels to conduct controlled flow studies to Fworked with our partners in the Outdoor protection from dams and other impacts. conservation, and your relationship with AConnecticut River that have been lost due have been largely dewatered, negatively determine the boatable flows at their Alliance to help shape a new process for We also highlight opportunities to improve river and forest managers can lead to better to dams and hydropower diversions. We impacting fish passage and spawning, hydropower projects. These studies, which determining how individual National hydropower dam operations in National access and fewer conflicts. If you paddle are actively engaged in dam relicensing and leaving these sections unusable by will take place in the summer of 2014, will Forests are managed. We are working on Forests (like on the Cheoah) as well as in NC, ID, CA, or MT, contact American activities along the Connecticut River the more than 7 million plus people who involve more than two-dozen paddlers the roll out of this process in Western North improve recreational management (like on Whitewater staff in your region to see how that impact aquatic life and paddling live within a two-hour drive of the river. over several days. Let us know if you want Carolina, California, Idaho, and elsewhere. the Chattooga). The new process we fought you can get involved. Our efforts on these opportunities at Sumner Falls and Bellows Based on the involvement of American to participate in the flow studies and help A big target for us is increasing the roster for only works if people show up. American projects are supported by Patagonia and Falls in Vermont/New Hampshire and Whitewater and other groups in the us revive the Connecticut River. of streams protected as “eligible” for Whitewater staff members are working members like you! Wild and Scenic designation. We use the hard to represent paddlers in many of these incredible information that our members processes around the country with the help
10 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 11 6. Paddling Management in Yellowstone, Stewardship Grand Teton, and Yosemite National Parks ou are welcome to paddle in nearly all be more different. They refused to even consider 7. Protecting Free-Flowing Rivers Across National Parks that have rivers to float on. allowing paddling on their Wild and Scenic Rivers. Nearly all. Long ago paddling was prohibited American Whitewater filed comments on their Yon most rivers in Yellowstone, Grand Teton, and dismissive draft river management plan, which drew the Pacific Northwest Yosemite National Parks. In Yellowstone the ban the attention of the national media, congressional was created solely to prevent overfishing. The leaders, and we presume the Park Service. 2014 will origins of the bans in the other parks are murkier. be a watershed year for paddling management in After decades of the status quo, these old bans have Yellowstone and Grand Teton. American Whitewater come up for review as new management plans have will have to choose whether or not to appeal a final recently been developed for certain Wild and Scenic decision on the river management plan, and perhaps Rivers in the parks. Park Service leaders in Yosemite what to do if that appeal is denied. This project will took up the challenge and are taking a hard look rely almost entirely on the contributions and activism at allowing paddling. While we are waiting for the of our members and the broader community of final decision from the Park as of press time, we are those interested in responsible river management optimistic that the new river management plan will in our national parks. Keep an eye on our website accommodate carefully and sustainably managed for updates! paddling. Yellowstone and Grand Teton could not
Protected Areas cover about 20% of Pacific Northwest Rivers, including Fantastic Falls on Washington’s North Fork Snoqualmie River. American Whitewater will be working to defend these protections in 2014 to preserve this and other rivers in the region. Photo by Thomas O’Keefe
he push for new hydropower risks of loss to fish and wildlife species the Protected Areas Program, and in 2014 development in the Pacific and their habitat, and these river reaches American Whitewater will be working just Northwest is still on, and American are protected from future hydropower as hard to defend and strengthen it. A WhitewaterT continues to prioritize development. Protected Areas cover strong Protected Areas program will have preserving and protecting the last great about 20% of the region’s rivers (~44,000 far-reaching and long-term effects for the freely flowing rivers in the region. In 2014, river miles), and are in place to mitigate Pacific Northwest, and play a key role in American Whitewater will be working the devastating impacts that the Columbia the fate of the Snoqualmie and Skykomish Merced River, Yosemite National hard to protect important recreation River Hydropower System has had on fish Rivers. We’ll need your help in defending Park, CA. American Whitewater’s opportunities and defend and strengthen and wildlife. Included in the Protected Area the Protected Areas Program for the rivers work in Yosemite and Yellowstone region-wide protections on freely flowing Program are the North Fork Snoqualmie in the Pacific Northwest. The Council will aims to offer paddlers sustainable rivers. On the top of our list is the “Protected and the South Fork Skykomish Rivers in be seeking public comment in early 2014 and carefully managed recreational Areas” designation through the Northwest Washington, where hydropower developers on their Draft Fish and Wildlife Program. opportunities in some of the nation’s Power and Conservation Council (hereafter, are proposing two projects that would have Watch the American Whitewater website most spectacular landscapes. simply “Council”). Protected Areas are significant impacts on fish, wildlife, and and Facebook page for opportunities to Photo by Paul Martzen rivers and streams where the Council has the recreational and free-flowing values weigh in. determined that any type of hydropower of these rivers. Hydropower developers are development would have unacceptable working hard to weaken and even eliminate
Jan/Feb 2014 13 Stewardship 8. Colorado River Basin Study— 9. Stream Access Rights in Virginia Healthy Flows
Dolores River, CO. Rivers throughout the Southwest have gone from mighty to meek due to drought and shortages in water supply. Paddlers can help American Whitewater work to restore flows. Photo by Nathan Fey
Maury River, VA. Virginia has a great paddling community, but lacks modern stream access laws. American Whitewater is working with a group of paddlers aiming to update the laws and help more people connect with the state’s great rivers. n 2012, the US Bureau of Reclamation American Whitewater, to address the flows in the Gunnison Basin in 2013, we Photo by Leann Perault published the most comprehensive study future imbalances in the Colorado River will be seeking input on recreational flows of future water supplies and demands Basin. Over the next few years, we will be on several important rivers including high Ion the Colorado River ever undertaken. committed to protecting healthy river flows priority reaches in Colorado, Utah, New The Colorado River Basin Water Supply in the Colorado River Basin as solutions Mexico, and Arizona. Information that or the first time in recent history use laws in the state. Virginia is among a support legislation in the coming year, and and Demand Study confirmed significant to these future challenges are developed you provide will help AW ensure that the a genuine groundswell of public handful of states that relies on outdated we’ll need your help. Legislation will only shortfalls between water supplies and by very powerful interests. It will be solutions to the water shortage in the support exists for broader and and unwieldy tests for determining which be passed if it is popular among a vocal and demands across the southwestern US— critically important for paddlers to assist southwest protect or improve whitewater Fclearer paddling rights on Virginia rivers streams are open to boating. While large group of Virginia voters and visitors. It shortfalls in water needed for cities, in our efforts by participating in studies to paddling opportunities into the future. and streams. Legislation introduced last neighboring states like North Carolina is a big push, but an important one. We’ll be farms, fish, and recreation. In May of define streamflows that sustain a range More information on the Basin Study year led to a great debate, and was narrowly and West Virginia have progressive laws keeping our members in the loop on how 2013, the Department of the Interior of paddling opportunities on high-priority and its potential effects on the Colorado defeated. American Whitewater is part of a that support large river recreation-based to help, and we look forward to a banner and Bureau of Reclamation convened whitewater rivers, and by making sure River and its tributaries is available on the coalition of groups and individuals seeking economies and communities, Virginia lags year for stream access in the state. key stakeholders representing the seven policymakers understand the importance American Whitewater website. new legislation and a more robust dialogue far behind. American Whitewater will be Basin States, Native American Tribes, and of river-based recreation to communities around the need for improved stream working closely with our volunteers to the conservation community, including across the basin. Similar to our study of
14 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 15 10. Yuba River Flow Restoration Stewardship
Following Through on 2013’s Top 10
ur 2014 Top Ten follows on the momentum of a great year. Here’s an update of what happened with our 2013 OTop Ten Projects. • Gunnison River (CO): Well over 300 paddlers and volunteers helped American Whitewater define streamflows that support whitewater paddling across Colorado’s Gunnison River Basin. We are currently working with water managers to leverage these data into long-term flow protections at the regional, state, and federal levels. We are seeking balanced protection of recreational flows with other priorities like agriculture and municipal supply—particularly as we stay committed to defending recreational needs as the Colorado River Basin Study moves forward.
• Northern Rockies Wild and Scenic (MT): American Whitewater is pleased to report that our campaign to designate new Wild and Scenic Rivers in Montana is in full swing. We’ve produced a website, held dozens of meetings, and hosted community river forums across the state. Next up: developing a broadly- supported legislative proposal.
• Pit River (CA): The fate of summer flows on the Pit 1 Middle Yuba River, CA, below Our House Hydroelectric project is currently in the hands of the CA State Dam. American Whitewater will be Water Resources Control Board. American Whitewater stayed working restore flows to the North Yuba engaged throughout 2013 as PG&E continued their efforts to and Middle Yuba Rivers in 2014. permanently cancel the flows. As we waited for the Water Photo by Dave Steindorf Board to make their decision, boaters enjoyed four days on the water last fall.
n 2014, American Whitewater will be Class V runs any in the group had ever done. rivers by filling out an online survey about • West Fork Tuckasegee (NC): American Whitewater and in the thick of the final hydropower And the reach on the Middle Yuba from your experience. Watch the American Duke Energy worked together to pull off a solid first season relicensing in the Yuba River watershed. Our House Dam down to Highway 49 is Whitewater website in the coming months of releases on the West Fork Tuckasegee. The trail was IFollowing on the heels of our success in considered by many to be one of the finest for more information. completed, high flows moved the wood out of the channel securing flows on the South Yuba River, Class IV reaches in the state. Compared to in July, and we are now working on dialing in the perfect flows Bear River, Canyon Creek, and Fordyce the other hydropower project in the Yuba Conclusion: for 2014. Most importantly, paddlers had a blast. Creek through the FERC relicensing process watershed, which boasts 40 reservoirs and If we pull off our Top 10 projects we’ll of the Yuba/Bear and Drum/Spaulding 16 powerhouses, the YCWA project is the permanently protect, restore, and improve • Dolores River (CO): American Whitewater worked to develop projects, we’ll be working to restore flows picture of simplicity. It contains just one access on over 1000 miles of rivers all a new management plan for McPhee Dam and Reservoir to sections of the North and Middle Yuba major reservoir and two powerhouses. across the country. Some of these projects that will improve the reliability of flows for boating, while Rivers that are impacted by the Yuba It is by no means a small project though. will take more than just one year to come also improving native fish populations. The plan is in its final County Water Agency’s hydropower The reservoir can hold back almost one to fruition, and we are committed to each draft, and will be released in early 2014. Meanwhile, we’ve project. These runs are highly prized by million acre-feet of water, and the 315 MW and every one of them. We are a small continued to investigate the US Bureau of Reclamation’s paddlers. On the North Yuba, the Class V Colgate Powerhouse is one of the largest in and ambitious organization fueled by the compliance with obligations set forth in the 1970s for reach below the massive New Bullards Bar the state, producing more power than the energy and generosity of the paddling Dam was first run in 1982 by Lars Holbeck, neighboring projects combined. If you’ve community. It’s exciting for us to share our A paddler negotiates the Black Canyon of the Gunnison’s Richard Montgomery, Mike Fentress, and paddled the North and Middle Yuba Rivers, Top 10 projects for 2014, and we appreciate formidable whitewater. In 2013, AW worked with paddlers to Chuck Stanley. Lars wrote about the run in we’ll need your help in 2014. We have one your support on these and many more evaluate flows throughout the Gunninson River Basin (CO) to the book, The Best Whitewater in California, final flow study to complete, and you can projects in the coming year. define water levels need for recreation. describing it as one of the most fantastic help shape the future of flows on these Photo by Tom Janney
16 americanwhitewater.org Stewardship Missisquoi: Going Big whitewater boating, including advance notice of releases and forecasted annual operations. in Vermont by Bob Nasdor & Ryan McCall • Merced (CA): American Whitewater worked with our partners in 2013 to stop efforts to roll back the Wild and Scenic ome might think the notion of big designation on the Merced River. We’re continuing to keep water Vermont is an oxymoron. a close eye on H.R. 934, which is still pending in the House. Perhaps it was, at least until last SNovember 2nd in Sheldon Springs along • Opposing New Hydropower Dams and Promoting the Missisquoi River in northern Vermont. Alternatives: American Whitewater helped defeat proposed There, an unexpected storm dropped an hydropower dams on East Rosebud Creek (MT), West Rosebud inch or so of rain on the northwest corner Creek (MT), the Madison River (MT), Boulder Creek (ID) and of the state a few hours before the start of Boundary Creek (ID)! We are also excited to see efficiency a warm November weekend. After trying, improvements at existing projects that better optimizes unsuccessfully, to schedule weekend energy production. Despite our recent victories, efforts to releases from the Sheldon Springs Dam in develop projects like Sunset Falls (WA) and Ernie’s Gorge May and October, American Whitewater (WA) are moving forward and we will continue to work to worked with the power company to provide stop them. the opportunity we had been waiting for. With a small impoundment at the Sheldon • Improving Access to Rivers in the PNW: This past fall we Springs Dam, opportunities to run the river celebrated the opening of the new access point for the on a weekend are infrequent. So, when the Powerhouse run on the Snoqulamie (WA). Access to Cable river gauge shot up Friday afternoon, the Drop on the Skykomish (WA) has been formalized and now call went out, “Missisqoui’s running! Want Paddlers put in below the Sheldon Springs Dam on the Missisquoi River in November accommodates rafts. Work on the Sultan River (WA) trail a release tomorrow?” Two hours later, we 2013 for the first boatable flows in many years. finally got underway and the plans for new access on Canyon had a commitment from the dam operator Photo by Ryan McCall Creek (WA) have been drawn up. Work on key acquisitions on for the release, and boaters jumped at the the Hood River (OR) and Crooked River (OR) are underway. chance to run the river. precursor to the Vermont Paddlers Grumman canoes, realized the potential for All of these projects benefited from the hard work of our Club) and the Vermont chapter of the boating on the Missisquoi. Together, they local clubs, dedicated volunteers, and member contributions. Back in the early 80s, boaters from the Appalachian Mountain Club, wearing persuaded the Vermont Attorney General Northern Vermont Canoe Cruisers (the seal skin and wool and paddling their to intervene in the FERC hydroelectric • Developing and Growing the New England Program: relicensing application filed by Missisqoi American Whitewater’s New England Program worked with Associates, then the operator of the affiliate clubs to secure new boating opportunities through Sheldon Springs Hydroelectric Project. hydropower relicensing and compliance on the Green and Under the 1984 Settlement Agreement, the Missisquoi Rivers (VT), and we are planning for controlled State of Vermont and Missisqoi Associates flow studies along the Connecticut River (VT/NH) in 2014. agreed to provide the whitewater boating American Whitewater, with the help of its affiliate Merrimack community with six recreational releases Valley Paddlers, also succeeded in protecting boater access annually. FERC approved the Settlement to the Contoocook River in southern New Hampshire. Agreement, and made it a part of the hydropower license. • New River Dries (WV): American Whitewater successfully requested a flow study on the New River Dries that assessed a Although providing whitewater releases wide range of flows. The first scheduled study dates happened was a license requirement, the current dam in August, with more dates next spring. An open online owner, Enel Green Power, has no record of portion of the study will run continuously through next July. the releases having actually occurred. As we have recently discovered, scheduling releases is a challenge due to the small Missisquoi River, Vermont, a rare big- water treat for New England boaters. West Fork Tuckaseegee, NC , a tremendous opportunity for pad- Photo by Ryan McCall dlers to enjoy new flows and access. Photo by Mark Singleton
Jan/Feb 2014 19 Stewardship impoundment and the uncertainty of in VT. This run is a great resource and really attention to. In the meat of the flow, the sufficient flows, which caused us to cancel helps fill up Vermont’s repertoire of runs.” waves and holes were significant and would Join American Whitewater for a all scheduled weekend releases earlier this crash and swamp you in a hurry if you were year. Enel Green has been working with According to the boaters, almost all of snoozing. There were a couple of swims— American Whitewater and local paddlers whom have strong Class IV/V skills, the run not recommended—but all rated the level River Trip on the Wild and Scenic to get these releases dialed in. So much is AMAZING. Slightly short, but very lapable, great for a standard run and are looking so, that the power company has agreed and super high quality. Everyone who was forward to coming back for future releases. to forgo some power generation to get us on the river that day was impressed with Rogue River! water in the bypass for our future study Vermont’s new big water run. The riverbed Over the next year, American Whitewater runs. Under their license, they are entitled is sort of a messy jumble of boulders from and Vermont Paddlers Club plan to study to generate with the first 1000 cfs, but couch size to house size, and not overly various flows in order to identify the have agreed to reduce their generation friendly. However it drops a substantial minimum, optimal, and high-challenge to minimum flows if necessary to provide amount of elevation between the put-in flows suitable for paddling by boaters of sufficient water in the natural bypass reach. and the take-out (approx. 90 fpm), making various abilities. We also plan to work on for a continuous mile of river where one establishing a better system of notifying A decent crew of local boaters from the rapid pours into the next. The riverbed boaters of the current conditions so that we area (plus one from Montreal) showed geomorphology helped to make the rapids can take advantage of unscheduled boating up for the first release, and pronounced less green and more turbulent and active. opportunities. American Whitewater, it a huge success and a unique paddling Vermont Paddlers Club, and local boaters opportunity in Vermont. Among the At the flow we saw on November 2nd (4200 are excited to be working together to make comments provided in a follow-up survey cfs), the Missisquoi was a solid Class IV river releases on the Missisquoi a success. of boaters, one boater noted, “I love and even the sneaks along the left shore paddling big water but almost never get to were something that you needed to pay
Ben Schott charges through a rapid on the Missisquoi River. Photo by Scott Gilbert Wild and Scenic Rogue River, Oregon. Photo by Thomas O’Keefe
his summer, American Whitewater Northwest Rafting Company (www. the Pacific Ocean. On its journey it passes members will have an opportunity nwrafting.com) today! through the Wild Rogue Wilderness, which to join American Whitewater staff will be the primary destination for our trip. andT board members for an exclusive trip This will not be American Whitewater’s Over the four days we are on the water you on Oregon’s Rogue River. We invite you first river trip to showcase an important will have the opportunity to learn about to come learn more about what we’re conservation opportunity while having fun American Whitewater’s conservation up to while having a great time enjoying out on the water. In the 1950s and 1960s and access work to protect our nation’s one of our nation’s first Wild and Scenic American Whitewater organized a series of whitewater resources–including efforts Rivers. The trip, which will take place June trips on the Lochsa, North Fork Clearwater, to further expand protections for the 5-8, will be fully outfitted by Northwest and Selway when those rivers were Rogue River. Rafting Company with professional guides, threatened by hydropower and resource exceptional food, transportation to and extraction. In celebration of American Please contact us at 1-800-262-8429 or at from Galice, and all equipment. You will Whitewater’s 60th anniversary, we think [email protected] if you have have the option of bringing your own boat, it’s time to revive our tradition of river trips. any questions about the trip. We hope to renting a boat, or joining as a passenger The Rogue is one of the nation’s classic see you on the Rogue River! on one of the rafts. A portion of the trip multi-day river journeys. With headwaters proceeds will go to American Whitewater near the northern edge of Crater Lake, the to support our work. Interested in joining Rogue River flows from the Cascade Range us? Make your reservation directly through and through the Klamath Mountains to
Jan/Feb 2014 21 History
wenty fourteen marks American Whitewater’s 60th Ask What You Can Do To Your Country anniversary. American Whitewater (originally American by Gary Carlson White Water Affiliation) first came into existence because participantsT in fledgling whitewater paddlesports in the United States were mostly fumbling their way toward mastery without Editors Note: benzene or somezene. But I never figgered any sort of guidance. Every aspect of running rivers that we take Ripped from the pages of the September/ people’d be that upset. Never made any for granted today was something of a mystery to those trying October 1992 issue of American sense to me to actually pay for water when to figure out where to find or how to build craft appropriate for Whitewater, published just months you could go into any public restroom and whitewater, or what techniques were best suited to paddling before the presidential election between fill up a bottle from the back of a toilet. rivers. As Bruce Grant, Secretary of the organization, wrote George H.W. Bush, Bill Clinton, and the in 1955, unforgettable Ross Perot, this tongue- “…so we’re searching for someone who in-cheek appeal to whitewater paddlers can head up our party. Someone unafraid Thus there are many currents flowing into the stream of to vote for the fictitious Gary Carlson for to make a punch. Someone who knows white water activity, and from each we can learn better ways president is a classic. While all who know his country and can lead the new dance. to pursue our sport safely and for maximum enjoyment. We the true identity of the writer behind the Someone who understands the lines it find serious-minded men studying, writing and teaching in Carlson pen name have been sworn to takes to end up on top. Someone like various parts of the country. They have wanted to compare secrecy, the legacy of Gary Carlson’s humor you, Gary.” their ideas with those of others—this was the origin of the entries in the Journal is eternal. Though AWWA…. They in turn wanted to share the growing fund of his name only appeared in the Journal “Say,” I said, “Am I gonna hafta pay for this information with others—thus was born American White for four brief years (1988-1992), Carlson slam-bang party?” Water Magazine.... brought brash, edgy humor to a sport in transition. “Of course not. There will be contributions, While American Whitewater originally helped whitewater and PAC money and matching funds to enthusiasts share understanding about whitewater gear, In the early 1990s kayaking was beginning cover expenses.” technique, runs, and safety, the organization also filled the void to gain wider exposure in the general angry readers and have a much bigger of river conservation that existed before its creation. public than it had ever had and the tent that welcomes not only accomplished Well, I couldn’t deny the logic. I did know sales of new boats gave many within whitewater kayakers, but canoeists, rafters, the recipe for a punch guaranteed to In the 1950s the federal government was still on a dam building the industry unreasonable hope that riverboarders, SUPers, and novices—even leave you in the gutter, I’d been listening rampage across the country and whitewater paddlers were seeing whitewater paddling would be the next the occasional raft guide. to country music on the radio and I’d just many of their favorite runs—on some of the most spectacular Fortunately for generations of river runners to come, Echo Park big mainstream sport. In the following learned the dance steps to “Achey, Breaky rivers in the country—disappear beneath manmade reservoirs. In Dam was never built and consequently many paddlers have come piece, Carlson’s assumption that his myopic All that aside, it is an awful lot of fun to read Heart,” and although my lines more often a 1955 American White Water article on the proposed construction to know and appreciate the river that was saved. While AW was platform of pro-boater policies will get Gary Carlson’s humor again—just please resulted with a slap in the face than me on of Echo Park Dam on Colorado’s Green River, Stephen J. Bradley too young to lead the fight against Echo Park Dam, its members him elected United States President was a don’t send us any angry letters about it! top—it wasn’t for lack of effort. wrote, “Emotions have taken over in much of the thinking, pro knew better than most Americans how important wild, free- barb at least partly aimed at the industry’s and con, in the Echo Park dam controversy. Many boatmen flowing rivers are, and that understanding laid the groundwork irrational exuberance about the future of And—what the Hell—the party was free! would like to see Dinosaur preserved, but hesitate to support for future generations of paddlers to advocate for rivers all across whitewater kayaking. ormally, I wouldn’t share my the preservation actively for fear of stifling the development of the country. That spirit of conservation that existed in the young tailgate with no geeky, stringbean “You’ve found yer man,” I said, and reached the West.” Clearly the national conversation about environmental American Whitewater is what still drives the organization today. But while whitewater is still not as popular of a boater. Specially one that was for another Rolling Rock. conservation and the value of wild, untouched places has shifted as skiing or mountain biking, the Gary Npresident of a major metropolitan paddling much in the last 60 years. But Bradley’s acknowledgement of In the coming year, we will be using this space to share a variety Carlson brand of humor did spawn several club. But since it was his case of ice-cold So that’s how I ended up being the political pressure to support dam-building across the Great of stories about American Whitewater’s past with our members. descendants, most notably Gary’s cousin, Rolling Rocks sittin’ between us, I figgered the presidential candidate for the American Desert also shows how progressive AW’s early positions We are starting in this January/February issue by reprinting an Carla Garrison, humorist Jonathan Katz, I could let him have his say: Paddlers’ Party. on conservation were—especially when, as this next excerpt from excellent story from Journals past (and will continue to reprint old and later, Bobby “ZoneDogg” Miller. While the same article illustrates, the organization represented the Journal articles all year long). In the coming months, expect to find exaggerating, rather than deconstructing “You know, Gary, many of us young, urban Now, I know a lot of you people are sayin’: viewpoint that not every section of every river should be dammed: perspectives from people who were involved in critical junctures the stereotype of the ugly American kayaker professionals who paddle feel totally “They [the dam-building proponents] know that absolute need of the organization’s history, an overview of AW’s stewardship made sense at the time Carlson’s work disenfranchised since we no longer have “Gary—have you been paddling Class V for Echo Park Dam cannot be proven now, and if they cannot get highlights from the past, and an all-around appreciation of what appeared in the Journal, today American Perot as an option…” water without a helmet? You gotta be crazy Echo Park Dam now—before the true value of this park is known this relatively small non-profit has been able to achieve. If you Whitewater’s place in the national to want to be president!” to the public—they may never get it.” have stories that you’d like to contribute that illuminate part of conservation movement makes it a less Well, I’d heard you couldn’t buy that Perot AW’s past, or if you have recommendations of stories to reprint, attractive choice. And while that means the Water no more. Something about that At first I thought so too. But after I got over please contact the editor at: [email protected]. Journal is a lot less funny than it used to French spring where they bottle Perot the disappointment of running for a major be, we also receive fewer complaints from Water contaminated with gasoline or political office instead of organizing a wild
22 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 23 History party—I began to see some advantages to David, Maryland. Where the Hell is Camp the old C.C.C. camps! There’s plenty of Hell, I figger the only real advantage the Now don’t go talking about solar power. I figger he’ll be seein’ things my way being the “paddling president.” David, anyway? Does anyone really know clean-up that can be done around rivers. male gender enjoys is that it’s easier for us Hell, I hate the sun. Give me rain from real fast in exchange for a helping hand. for sure? Hell, skilled workers can design and to make a piss-stop during a shuttle. Monday through Friday…hardly enough Specially with the hole at National Falls Take shuttles, for instance. You don’t think construct artificial whitewater courses in light to power solar cells. Admittedly, I don’t looming ahead. you couldn’t jam a whole bunch of boats Well, since the camp’s location is somewhat places like Iowa or Mississippi. In addition, I think that what a woman does mind nukes much. I’d just as soon dump the into that presidential helicopter? No more obscure…I’ll just move it to Friendsville— with her body is her own bizness. Now what waste in Kansas or some other worthless Tax Relief walks up that steep Panther Creek Trail on right on the banks of the Upper Yough. And Of course, there will always be a minority of a lot of women actually do with their bodies state that doesn’t have whitewater. But For the last 20 years, I’ve watched while the Gauley—just jump into the hovering we’ll have water releases every day until people without the responsibility or drive should be a crime. But you can’t arrest then we do need wheat to bake important the chowderheads in Washington and in whirlybird at the base of Sweet’s Falls and Deep Creek Lake is sucked down to a mud to accept a real job. They can be raft guides. someone for gittin’ fat and ugly. Now, I things—like pretzels our state capitol of Albany have frittered zip up to the dam for another run. puddle. Now, the folks in the million-dollar don’t want our female readers getting their away the pounds of flesh they rip from my homes on the lake might bitch about the Welfare knickers in an uproar. Lord knows I’m not So what to do? paycheck every week. And now to sustain Now—I know you’re saying: “What about level going down, but the threat of an IRS You won’t get old Gary to say that folks talking about them. Female boaters are their extravagant spending habits, they tell security, Gary? The president can’t go audit ought to shut ‘em up. should go hungry. But if I’m going to pay typically fit as Amazons and I’d never say Geothermal power! Hell, they run the me they need to tax my boats and charge nowhere without his secret service agents.” for welfare programs, I figger I oughta get nothing bad about females with shoulders whole country of Iceland by tapping in user fees every time I cross a put-in! So, you’re probably thinking: “Well, the somethin’ back. Some private services. bigger’n mine. hot water trapped in the Earth’s innards. Of course not! They’d be damned useful. presidency might be a good deal for you, Like letting able-bodied welfare recipients And besides, there’s a worthy byproduct Well—I’m changin’ that! I sez…we tax every Gary…but what’s in it for us? There’s gotta carry boats on portages…or drive shuttles. Energy of the used-up steam. We dump it into person in the country who don’t own Picture this: I’m in an eddy above an be some reason to vote for you other than Or better yet…perform fiberglass work on Here’s a real dilemma. You can talk about Adirondack rivers! I’m looking forward to a kayak! especially nasty drop. The left side looks just improving your paddling plans.” my busted boats. I’ll bet after a few kayaks cutting down on fossil fuels, but then paddling on 80-degree water in April! particularly ominous. So I just say, “Agent get ground and the fiberglass dust is flying, how the Hell do you drive to a put-in? My After all—who is it that’s runnin’ up the Smith, would you care to probe the Well, to paraphrase John Kennedy—ask the nation’s welfare rolls will diminish mountain bike doesn’t have roof racks. World Affairs cost of health care in this country? It’s left side?” not what your country can do for you…ask significantly! The new location of Camp David is key to the leadbutts who spend every weekend what you can do to your country. And I can You can hate what hydro-electric power my conducting international diplomacy. I rooted in their Lazyboys chompin’ chips and Thunk! do plenty! Drug Abuse does to rivers, but how do you chill just invite world leaders to Friendsville and dip and raisin’ their cholesterol levels like Here’s an innovative program designed to your beer without electricity? And sure, while we’re there, I suggest we take a little mercury in a Death Valley thermometer. “Well, boys, looks like we want to run down In fact, just last night, me’n a panel of select handle the drug problem once and for all! burning coal and wood pollutes the air, raft ride. Just a little pleasure cruise. Hah! the right.” advisors circled around a campfire to put A whitewater camp for folks convicted of but who wants to see their breath when Sure boaters may call in sick from work on the final touches on the campaign platform drug offences! they’re sitting at home watching Monday Say we’re hung up on a few key issues. Fridays when the Upper Yough is running, And then there’s the benefit of free digs for the Paddling Party. It wasn’t easy ‘cuz Night Football? Well, at the top of Triple Drop, I give but have you ever seen a paddler stay sick over four years: the White House—the a couple of the boys were squirt boaters It’s located on the banks of the Russell my disagreeable counterpart a little for the weekend? Never! At least not when world’s ultimate guide shack. A pool in who’d suffered some minor brain damage Fork—that mean-spirited Class V run shove. Splash! there’s water. the basement for roll sessions. And with from oxygen deprivation during mystery down in Kentucky. And unlike other drug kayaks mounted on the presidential moves. In fact, it took the better part of the rehabilitation programs, participants in my limo and a police motorcycle leading the night and all of a quarter keg to complete— camp can ingest as much of the poison of cavalcade—the Class V Great Falls is only 10 but by the time the tap fizzled and spat the their choice whenever they want to. The minutes away. last of the brew, we figgered we’d licked the only requirement is: they need to run the world’s problems. river once a day for a solid month. Of course, residing in an inner-city like Washington, D.C. has a downside— Here’s what we came up with: I figger the river will separate the users you’re constantly surrounded by the from the abusers. Those that can last a dregs of humanity. It’s the underbelly of The Homeless month on the Russell should be able to civilization—a subculture where rape and I figger, homelessness is mostly a state function in society and will be released. The robbery are considered the norm. But then, of mind. Hell—half the paddlers in the others will simply be buried in mass graves I figger I can get used to it. You just have world don’t have a permanent address marked only by toxic waste warning signs. to stay out of the parts of town where and they’re not complaining. So, to solve you’d find lawyers…around ambulances, the problem, I’m proposing we give every Women’s Rights or where slush fund money is being divvied homeless person in the country a kayak and I’m all for women’s rights. They have the out, or golf courses. a used van with roof racks. right to carry their own boats. The right to pack an equal amount of gear during a float Besides, what president actually spends Unemployment trip. The right to probe a nasty drop. The time in Washington? Most of the time it F.D.R. had the right idea: people want to right to pay for half the beer. seems they’re always hanging around Camp work if they have a chance. So bring back
24 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 25 History River Voices
And who is it that trashes the countryside The system is simple: if you don’t own a Instead, picture a Gauley Festival on the Cancelled: How the Government Shutdown Prevented a by flinging empty bottles out the window boat, you pay an extra $1000 a year. But Mall. Thousands of celebrants clad in Group of Boaters From Paddling the Grand Canyon of their cars? Again, not kayakers. Paddlers if you own a boat, you claim a $1000 river shorts and pile clutching cans of respect the environment too much, and deduction. Or as in my case, if you own 10 Milwaukee’s Best. Kayak demos in the by Elisha McArthur besides, they’re too cheap to throw away boats, you get back 10 grand. Reflective Pool. The Greatful Dead playing the nickel deposit. on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial. What a deal! Most boaters won’t have to Slam-dancing on Pennsylvania Avenue. And who is it that lives in our cities that suck work anymore. They can just live off their A whitewater rodeo at Little Falls of the government aid like a ravenous black hole? tax returns. Potomac. Whitewater videos projected on Who is it that needs expensive artificial the side of the Washington Monument… lakes built by the Army Corps of Imbeciles Now that you’ve seen my platform, I figger fer water-skiing? And who wants street paddlers across the country will flock to my Jeez…turns out I’m heading up a real party lights on every corner and parkin’ lots big banner. I’ve already sent change-of-address after all! enough to turn an RV around in? cards to the post office.
Again, not kayakers. It’s the other people And, Hell…you’re all invited to my inaugural who are a drain on the economy…the bash. But don’t come expecting some people that don’t own boats. So, let them wimpy black-tie affair where glad-handing pay their fair share. political hacks buss cheeks and schmooze with champagne and canapés
No more renewal notices!
The epitome of our time at the Sick of renewal notices in the mail? “Dirt Eddy.” This is at the turn into Sign up for auto-renewal on your the road leading to Lee’s Ferry AW membership and you’ll never near the Marble Canyon Lodge. Photo by Alan Cammack get another. Your membership won’t lapse and you’ll be helping us save Editor’s Note: The following piece appeared of points, giving you so many chances to kayakers drove to Lees Ferry with permit in Colorado Central Magazine’s November win. My better half, Alan, and I put in for a in hand and 23 days’ worth of wilderness our limited funds and trees! 2013 issue (cozine.com). We thought it was permit in January of 2012, and even with expedition gear in tow. We were ready to relevant to our members and a cautionary my dad on our permit (who had priority do everything within our powers to launch tale about the consequences of gridlocked lottery points from being on the waiting on the river trip we had been dreaming New and renewing members: governance, so we asked if we could reprint list for nine years before it switched to the about and planning for so long. americanwhitewater.org/join it here. We are grateful to the author and lottery) did not win the primary lottery on her editors at Colorado Central Magazine Feb. 22. We did, however, win a permit Tensions ran high on the two-hour drive Current members: for the chance to share it with you. from a secondary drawing held in March. from Flagstaff, but so did optimism. The 1-866-262-8429 Our launch date was Oct. 2, 2013; we were battle cry to rally early had been made at ermits to run the Colorado River elated! We spent the next year and a half 9 p.m. the night before, when midnight hit through the Grand Canyon are planning the perfect trip and rallying the the east coast and news of the shutdown acquired by a weighted lottery perfect crew. hit us. Members of the group due to Psystem and are not easy to come by. What arrive the next day drove through the used to be a ten-year waiting list switched On Oct.1, 2013, as everyone knows, the night, arriving between 3 and 8 a.m. Ceiba to a lottery in 2006. The weighted system federal government shut down. That same Adventures, the company from which we means that you have a certain number day, our group of 16 determined rafters and were renting boats, equipment, food packs,
26 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 27 River Voices
everything that we could do—making as Ferry (what used to be Lake Mead). Our loud a cry as we could from that dirt eddy. original plan was to take out at Pearce Ferry. We essentially spent six days rafting The Dirt Eddy was difficult. At first there what would have been the last two days was optimism, but as the days dragged of our 23-day Grand Canyon trip. There on, spirits dampened. Alan and I, as trip was one good rapid and the scenery was leaders, were responsible for this group beautiful. We thoroughly enjoyed every of people we had brought together from moment of our Diamond down trip, but all across Colorado, California, Arizona, there were, and are, still holes in all of our Oregon and even D.C. We tried our best hearts…holes that can only be filled by the to keep group morale up, checking on roaring torrents of rapids like Lava Falls everyone daily, discussing options, rallying and Crystal, by the voluptuous curves and for short day hikes, and encouraging and falls of side canyons like Matkatamiba and cheering. Many tears were shed. Ultimately Shinumo—holes in our hearts that can only Morning of arrival at the blockade. Photo shows the closed road and a good view of our collective hearts were crushed as we be filled by the walls of the Grand Canyon. Ceiba’s 30+ foot gear trailer fully loaded with our 24 days’ worth of gear. neared the deadline for even the shortest Photo by Brockett Hudson possible trip. Apart from the emotional cost, opportunity The author giving an interview for one of the local news networks during the wait. and fiscal costs were high. Somewhere Photo by Alan Cammack and a shuttle, also rallied to the battle cry (and other trips) camp in the big parking lot By the end of the week it was very clear around $30,000 was squandered on this and were at our hotel by 8 a.m. behind the lodge, which we affectionately that no movement was happening in river trip that never ran. Some members their pennies. One member suffers from also going to be his last. While I have been dubbed “The Dirt Eddy.” We were holding Washington, and that we were not going of our group had been saving up paid time advanced stages of MS, and although it before, and I know I will go again, many of There was a “soft closure” in effect from out hope that Congress would come to an to get to run the Grand. Sadly, we packed off for over a year. Others had been saving would have been his 13th Grand trip, it was our group never have, and some may never 8 a.m. until noon in order to clear out the agreement and that we would still be able up camp at the Dirt Eddy and said goodbye park. Our plan was to be there before noon to launch. Much of that week was spent to our newfound friends, the Lees Ferry with the hopes that sympathetic rangers hanging on every breaking news post. rangers, with whom we had spent the week would let us in before the gate closed so commiserating. The shutdown was hard on we could launch a day early. We all called our congressmen and them, too. Membership Installment Plans! senators. We called the governor of We arrived at Lees Ferry at 11 a.m. only Arizona. We called Speaker Boehner. We We headed to Diamond Creek, the main to find that the barricade had just been Facebooked and Twittered and interviewed take-out for the Grand Canyon, which is Big support, small payments erected and was manned by one frightened for local TV channels, NPR, the AP, American on the Hualapai Reservation, and spent the
Grand Canyon - Colorado River, Arizona North Fork of the Payette, Idaho North Fork Mokelumne, California The Colorado River is the largest source of water for tens of millions of people in the Western US. American Whitewater’s Colorado Photo by Dean Krakel Once threatened by a dam, the North Fork Payette showed its awesome power as it reached over 8,000 cfs during the summer of Photo by Mike Reid The Moose and Black rivers in New York were the first dam relicensings that American Whitewater used to restore flows to rivers Moose River, New York Photo by Darin McQuoid - kayakphoto.com River Program is working to protect the river system from projects that propose to take even more water out of the river. Pictured: Gary Oyler 2010. Pictured: Tristan McClaran impacted by dams more than 25 years ago. Photo by Harry Berking American Whitewater is working to secure Wild and Scenic River protection for the Mokelumne River. Pictured: Jonas Grunwald ranger. We asked him what we could do, to Whitewater, and the L.A. Times. We did next six days floating from there to Pearce JANUARY 2011 FEBRUARY 2011 MARCH 2011 APRIL 2011 SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY Now, you can choose to pay for any 1 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2
New Year’s Day Groundhog Day April Fool’s Day which he replied, “I don’t know, I’m so sorry. 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
Valentine’s Day Daylight Savings Time Begins St. Patrick’s Day Tax Day 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 $250+ membership in four or twelve
Martin Luther King, Jr. Day President’s Day Earth Day The park is closed.” Another group showed 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 27 28 27 28 29 30 31 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Easter 30 31
P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS up shortly after. Their trip leader jumped americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 payments. It makes that $750 Lifetime out of the van spitting fire and threatening membership just $62.50 a month. the poor ranger, who was already visibly trembling. More rangers then showed up, Easy as $62 pie :)
American Whitewater and our partners negotiated flows on the Cheoah that began five years ago. The flows have brought the Cheoah River, North Carolina South Fork American, California Federal agencies have recently launched an ambitious campaign to get young people interested in the outdoors. American San Marcos River, Texas One of the classic whitewater rivers of the Pacific Northwest, American Whitewater continues to work on public access and Skykomish River, Washington river back to life and offered paddlers a new whitewater classic. The Cheoah is a spectacular example of how the simple act of Photo by Jakob Käfer Hilde Schweitzer surfing on the South Fork American. Hilde was a driving force in negotiating more water in the South Fork Photo by Darin McQuoid Whitewater has been working with them to highlight the role that fun activities like paddling on backyard rivers can play in Photo by Stephanie Viselli and all said the same thing: “I am so sorry. watershed protection in the Skykomish River basin. Photo by Kennet Belenky adding water to a river can benefit aquatic species, public recreation, and regional economies. Pictured: Will S. Lyons American as part of the new FERC license. She has now set her sights on the Rubicon River and Middle Fork American. Pictured: Hilde Schweitzer reconnecting America’s youth with nature. Pictured: Sage Donnelly (age 9) MAY 2011 JUNE 2011 JULY 2011 AUGUST 2011 SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 3 4 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6
The park is closed.” Cinco de Mayo 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
Mother’s Day Independence Day 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Flag Day 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 New and renewing members:
Father’s Day 29 30 31 26 27 28 29 30 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 28 29 30 31
Memorial Day Hungry but not yet defeated, and slightly 31 P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org/join annoyed with the behavior of the other group, we eventually wandered over to the Current members: Marble Canyon Lodge for some lunch and 1-866-262-8429 a recess. A week later we were still there. Ausable Chasm, New York The new permit system on the Grand Canyon is providing new opportunities to get on the water while still preserving the incredible The Bruneau River is one of our country’s newest Wild and Scenic Rivers. This protection will ensure that the river is never It took a decade of hard work, but access to the Ausable Chasm was finally won in 2010. The river has since been thrilling Photo by Mark Zakutansky experience unique to this river. We remain engaged in the effort to monitor the new system and track exactly how well the new Grand Canyon - Colorado River, Arizona dammed and that it remains a special place for generations to come. American Whitewater is currently working on several Wild Bruneau River, Idaho River access in Virginia is a touchy subject that American Whitewater has been seeking to improve for well over a decade. Our Smith River, Virginia paddlers with its towering canyon walls and natural summer flows. Pictured: Simone Orlandi program is working. Photo by Leland Davis and Scenic River campaigns that will result in new protection for hundreds of river miles. Photo by Brian Vogt work continues to seek creative legal and political solutions to an age-old problem. Photo by Gwynn Kinsey SEPTEMBER 2011 OCTOBER 2011 NOVEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 The owner was gracious enough to let us SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY 1 2 3 1 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Labor Day Daylight Saving Time Ends Election Day Veteran’s Day 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
Columbus Day 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
Thanksgiving Christmas Eve Alan Cammack holding his permit in front 25 26 27 28 29 30 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 27 28 29 30 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Christmas 30 31
Halloween
P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS P.O.Box1540•Cullowhee,NC28723•1-866-262-8429 SAVING RIVERS of the road closed sign at the Lee’s americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 americanwhitewater.org SINCE 1954 Ferry Road. Photo by Scott Davis of Ceiba Adventures
Jan/Feb 2014 29 River Voices again get the opportunity. Though we all did our best to stay positive, huge losses were sustained that can never be regained.
Despite the loss and despite the pain, our motto during our few days on the water became “This doesn’t suck.” It didn’t suck because of the amazing group of people whom we endured this travesty with and because of help from the likes of Ceiba Adventures, who went above and beyond, Marble Canyon Lodge, who opened their doors to us, the Hualapai tribe, who ignored the government’s instructions to cease operations, the Lees Ferry rangers, whose jobs were held hostage; and the arsenal of friends and media, who spread the word about our plight. It didn’t suck because of the extraordinary people who pulled together to make the best of a bad situation.
Now if only our government could do the same. The Dirt Eddy. Our home for five long days. Elisha McArthur lives in Salida, Colorado where she Photo by Brockett Hudson manages a rafting company all summer long, plays music all winter long and is a full-time mom all year long.
AW Stewardship American Whitewater’s Advocacy Efforts During the Shutdown By Thomas O’Keefe For more than two weeks in October, the United States federal government entered a shutdown and curtailed most routine operations after Congress failed to enact legislation appropriating funds for fiscal year 2014.
The closure of the boat launch at Lee’s Ferry on the Grand Canyon was among the highest profile impacts of the government shutdown, but there were many other access closures that directly touched the whitewater community. The Forest Service pulled the special use permit for the annual Nooksack Slalom Races in Washington, resulting in the event being cancelled. Access to many other rivers was closed as well, including the Rio Grande, Delaware, Pit, Buffalo, Green (Dinosaur National Monument), and Colorado (Grand Canyon and Cataract Canyon through Canyonlands).
Whitewater paddlers were effective in getting their voices heard through phone calls, email, social media, and traditional media. Here at American Whitewater, we were able to help amplify the message by following up with individual members of Congress and their staff, as well as our contacts in the Administration. While loss of access to a river may have seemed like a mundane issue in light of all the major impacts that were felt across the country, the impacts of cancelled trips were very real for local communities and businesses that depend on outdoor recreation. Outfitters that rent gear, provide shuttles, or help put food together were all out of a job. Local restaurants and gear shops in gateway communities lost business from visitors who cancelled their trips. Contractors who were lined up to work on access projects that American Whitewater is involved with found themselves out of work, and projects had to be rescheduled.
We thank all our members who took the time to weigh in on the importance of access to rivers that are managed by the National Park Service and other federal agencies. While the impacts of the shutdown were indeed painful for those whose trips were impacted, it was a powerful moment for us to demonstrate the value and importance of our public lands and the rivers that flow through them.
30 americanwhitewater.org Finding Adventure on South Creeking
Boulder Creek guiding me down my first Class IV rapids, My quasi-regular crew consists of an by Kevin Cripps Mike would regale me with tales of athletic group of locals with vacillating running three-story waterfalls cascading boating enthusiasm, who are way too through moss covered gorges in the preoccupied with other aspects of life for Pacific Northwest, thundering towers of my own narrow-minded tastes. I decided translucent blue waters on the Futaleufu, this particular adventure required a and remote helicopter accessed gorges different team. I shot e-mails to a couple of in New Zealand. I learned that Class IV inveterate local Class V boaters to see what could be safely navigated by methodical they thought about a scrub like me flailing analysis, strategic safety, and relentless, down USB. Alex Clayden was the first to focused training. Gradually, I relocated chime in with a thorough description of Mike’s stories out of the realm of legends the run, a manageability assessment, and and into the domain of attainable goals. a willingness to show me down. Sean Lee, never one to hide his passion, was more As I encountered more experienced blunt about it. I believe he wrote, “...you boaters, I began to imitate their habits. will style that s&%t like you do every other I’d paddle back into a relatively safe hole run.” Clearly Sean didn’t have enough and get chundered in order to train my boating experience with me to know better, body and mind for a tempestuous ride. so I figured I’d better take the offer before Alex Clayden and Chris Heim On well-known runs, I’d catch every eddy, he got any wiser. swapping positions after a shaky then I’d run it again taking the fastest entrance in Trainspotting. lines possible. Competing in the Vertical Sean was assembling a crew of his usual Photo by Kevin Cripps Challenge, I learned that while one lap is suspects for a run the following Saturday. good practice, two is better, and three Friday night a cold front was moving in even more so. While friends and coworkers and potentially shutting down flows, so we would head out for happy hour, I’d cruise were going to do a morning gauge check. his is not a story of grand the ladder on the high dive, peered down from bountiful winter snows high up in the over to my local play hole. Sometimes my That night I’d been pacing up and down adventure through unexplored into the abyss below, and after a couple of Indian Peaks Wilderness, Boulder can be best days were when it was too low and too my hallway reading and rereading excerpts gorges in exotic lands. Nor does minutes of indecision, down-climbed back a lovely place to reside for the steadfast cold, but I’d have the world to myself. In from the local guidebook, Colorado Rivers theT tale involve 100-foot waterfalls, or life to the bottom. creek boater. A few special stretches on the off-season I’d go to a slalom course and and Creeks (CRC): “...out of our numerous threatening injuries. It’s about myself, just Saint Vrain Creek, South Boulder Creek, run gates in my creek boat. Some days I’d descents, few have gone without incident... a frustratingly average adult male who was So, how did I find myself on one chilly spring and the headwaters of Boulder Creek try paddling down an easy run taking only USBC is always an adventure b/c anything— raised in the suburbs of Austin, TX. While morning, with flurries of snow prickling my offer wilderness Class V experiences that duffek strokes, and some days try to boof repeat, anything—can happen!” I’ve learned that some parents were taking cheeks, snapping on my skirt and sliding few frequent, despite their proximity to the every rock and eddy line I encountered. their children on grand climbing adventures into the chilly waters of Upper South overachieving population of Boulder. Then I thought, “man CRC was written by and ski tours, my parents taught me how Boulder Creek, one of the most notorious Even as I grew more skilled as a boater, a bunch of grey hairs who started boating to always play it safe: “don’t jump too Class V+ runs on the Colorado Front Range? When I first started boating, I was too and my confidence matured, it was easy in 11-foot cigar boats. Their Class V is our high on the trampoline,” “avoid uneven preoccupied chasing my boat down the to avoid runs like Upper South Boulder Class III, right?” or rocky paths that put your ankles at risk I learned to kayak in Boulder, Colorado. Class II Golden Play Park to even begin Creek. During the Colorado runoff, boaters of twisting,” “chew at least 10 seconds For years I’d strolled by streams and rivers, to fathom what those runs must be like. partake in a feeding frenzy. So many runs So I brushed off my copy of the recently before swallowing,” and as I matured drawn to their edge, but at a loss as to what I immersed myself in tales on the Internet are at optimal levels simultaneously for written Whitewater Guide to the Southern into adulthood, “if you find yourself peer- to do once I reached the boundary between of steep boulder choked drops through such a short period that it’s easy to take Rockies (WWSR) to comfort myself with pressured into drinking a beer, eat lots of earth and water. While attending graduate remote canyons from which people crawled refuge on the popular known quantities what I was sure would be a blasé evaluation food beforehand to counter the effects.” school in Boulder, my problem was solved with broken ankles, or limped with busted and ignore the fear inducing adventures by this group of sandbagging Class V In fact, I was a cautious kid who in grade when walking to class and seeing a group shoulders and sore feet from hiking out lurking in adjacent canyons. But in 2012, authors. My guess was they would write school chose to stand at the periphery of of kayakers float by. Boulder isn’t the best scree fields after the river stripped them curiosity and drought got the best of me something like, “It’s amazing that this once the playground and analyze the monkey place to learn how to kayak. Streamflows of their gear and mojo. It never occurred and I decided it was time I checked out frequently feared, carnage inducing stretch bars rather than romping through the jungle are ephemeral, rivers are shallow and to me that I might one day be participating the infamous Upper South Boulder Creek is by today’s standard a short stretch of gym like my classmates. As an adolescent in rocky, and the local boating crews contain in these adventures in my own backyard. (USB). Thanks to diversions from the Moffat Class III/IV boogie water, but despite its summer camp, I refused to rappel off the people of the most questionable character. tunnel, this was one of the few sections of mellow character is still a worthwhile trip back of a 10-foot bus, unable to control my But when a crisp spring breeze blows As my boating circles expanded, I met local whitewater with runnable flows. for taking in some lovely high country primal fear. I was that kid who walked up across a solid snowpack accumulated a willing mentor in Mike French. While scenery...” Unfortunately, what it actually
32 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 33 Creeking
South Boulder isn’t exactly known for its home and grab your camera before he even of characters who don’t like to carry water and you must command yourself through warm water and as we approach the put-in, begins to contemplate pulling his skirt. But because it’s too heavy and just discovered several holes and ledges with precise moves snowflakes begin to fall in abundance and this week, well, he has just discovered the neoprene paddling accessories. that exit into more Class IV-V continuous the mercury drops into the 30s. “skull cap.” boogie water blanketed with pin rocks. Momentarily I look around from my perch If you’re still under the delusion that being He explains to the group, “There’s these on the high dive to see if there’s a way back Forrest explains that every time you run a highly skilled boater means that you’re beanie things that are made out of down. But having long ago recognized that USB you have to check the drops for wood, actually prepared to go boating, then get neoprene. You put them on your head and exercising good judgment is often antipodal recalling a time when he almost skipped a over it now. I begin unloading boats from they keep you warm! These things are sick! to fun, I throw caution to the wind, already scout on S-turn because they’d just run it my car. As I pull Forrest’s Nomad off the I’m gonna try mine out!” I see Andy looking realizing that I’m in this for the duration. I the day before, only to find a deadly log roof, I can’t believe how light it feels. I toss on in amazement and jealousy. I offer him hop in my boat and enjoy the 200 yards of in the middle of the line that would have it on the ground and inspect the inside. my spare. I give Andy a pass on this one, Class III before the canyon cinches tight and killed them all. We scout for wood, signal since until his recent marriage forced the action begins. So what of my sketchy an all clear sign and Forrest pushes into “Forrest,” I say, “why don’t you have him to become a respectable member of crew of hooligans? Well, they undergo an the current to show us how it’s done. He anything in your boat?” society, he’s been a dirtbag kayaker who’s instant transformation as soon as the Class misses the first eddy, but nonplussed, spins lived off paddling other people’s throw V begins. around and hits the line. Andy goes next, “What do you mean?” he responds, in a away boats. But, who the hell are these making it look smooth like he always does. casual ingenuous manner that only people guys that I’ve just taken up with? What am Trainspotting is the USB opener and sets Anxious to prove to myself that I’m ready who know Forrest can really appreciate. I doing here? What kind of life is this? It’s the standard for the run. Passing under for this run, I shake off heavy nerves. I Chase Nobles getting his first taste of USB. 30 degrees outside, snowing, I’ve been so the railroad bridge is like passing through jump in right behind Sean and follow his Photo by Kevin Cripps “Well, there’s no water bottle, no throw nervous from USB tales of carnage that I the Gates of Mordor as you swallow your line. This was the system for the remainder rope, no float bags, no med kit, no food, couldn’t eat anything all morning, and I’m fear and commit yourself to the unknown. of the run. Sean and I jump out to scout, no pin kit, no breakdown paddle,” I try to being guided down by some sketchy cast The gradient increases significantly here I get to see two lines, then I follow Sean said was, “USB inspires an up-swelling of decide to blow it off this time and wait for point out. fear in some of even the area’s most ardent better conditions. Five minutes later my Bridger Steele loving the boof in creek boaters.” phone rings again—it’s Sean. “Forrest’s in. “Aww, all that stuff’s too heavy!” RIMBY. Blakeslee’s in. Let’s do it! RIMBY has the he responds. Photo by Kevin Cripps I’m up earlier than normal, pacing around best boof on the Front Range, it’s going the house, assembling my boating gear and to be sick!” Now that’s decision making While I know Forrest likes to mess with trying to settle my stomach. Sean rings my at its finest. I pack up my car and drive to people, in my nervous state I can’t decide phone and gives me the report. The flow Cafe Solle, where every serious Boulder if he’s serious or not. Then begins the is on the low side, which actually increases boater rendezvouses before the day’s cold weather gear talk. After a recent cold the difficulty level due to all the pin rocks local adventure. weather mission where Forrest attempted that come into play. He says he and local to wear a wool hat under his helmet with legend and wildman Forrest Noble did the As the virgin, I’m volunteered to drive, so little success, he apparently went shopping. run a week prior at similar flows and they we load up my Subaru to meet Andy at Have you met Forrest Noble? He’s been both had bad pins and lost gear. the take-out. Andy shows up skidding his boating since he was in diapers. Most kids truck around in a circle and parking next cut class to smoke cigarettes behind the I look out the window, the sky is matted to us. He hops out with his usual infectious gas station, but Forrest cut class to run with every possible shade of grey and the grin. As we begin our shuttle, tales of the Great Falls section of the Potomac at spring temperatures are dipping into the debauchery quickly ensue only making the highest recorded flood stage in recent 30s. Sean is torn between another lap on me more unsettled. We make a pit-stop history. He’s chalked up first Ds on runs this familiar run in the cold or heading to at Nick Wigston’s house en-route, to see if and drops all over Colorado and California. doggie kindergarten (I’m serious). Sean he wants to join. More importantly, it’s an While I was peeing my pants contemplating makes a few more calls, then calls me excuse to steal some gear out of his house. the 10-foot rappel off the back of the bus back. Forrest is out, as is his right hand Sean had lost his paddle the previous week at summer camp, Forrest was climbing El man Andy Blakeslee. We debate what to from that bad pin on USB, and is hoping Cap with some ridiculously small rack. He do and Sean says, “screw it, let’s go.” But to use something better than his spare has more adventure stories from last week at this point, I’m not quite sure. He’s just paddle with toothpick width blades. Just than you’ve accumulated in your entire life. convinced me that it’s probably a bad idea, about everybody is eager to see if they can He doesn’t always make the kayaking lines and now we’re just down to the two of us find some poggies or gloves in Wigston’s look smooth, but when he’s fighting it out with a nasty spring storm settling in. We stash to keep their hands warm. Upper in a hole, you’ll have plenty of time to run
34 americanwhitewater.org creeking down with safety set at the bottom. Guides “So you hit the line, and proved them Sean points out the pin rock at the crux of myself decides that having something over as possible to follow the lines through the the Colorado High Country and I reminisce don’t get much better than this! I’ve already wrong, eh?” I ask the drop that led to his swim the previous their ears is compromising their balance. Class V runout of RIMBY, but by the time about past adventures, I ponder what forgotten about the cold and foreboding week. Before the run he said he might I clear the horizon line, nobody’s in sight. exploits my newborn daughter will be and am loving some sweet Class V creeking “Nah, it was impossible to get right! But I portage the drop. The pin rock was very The next section is a long series of drops telling in 20 years. As I watch her flail her in my backyard with the best crew Boulder went left and boofed over the top of the much in play. Although Andy made it look that are a bit cumbersome to scout, At the next set of boulders I choose chubby arms and legs in the air, I imagine has to offer. sieve and that sort of worked.” easy, the odds seem stacked against us. I collectively known as Grand Piton National the wrong door and find myself pinned what her miniature hands and feet will one anticipate Sean saying he is walking it and Park. Forrest asks me if I like beta or if I at a 45-degree angle against a couple day be capable of and the possibilities for The first portage for us is the Gash. Forrest “The portage is pretty easy,” I say. am ready to follow suit. But at this point, prefer to follow blindly. downstream boulders. “Oh no,” I think to adventure seem endless. looks noticeably disappointed as we all Sean is fired up and merely says, “You myself, “I’ve made it down the entire run begin carrying our boats around the drop. S-turn is one of the more significant drops ready?” Enthusiasm can be infectious. I hop “I’ll take some beta,” I respond. and I get destroyed in the last rapid with The rapid is run even less frequently than it encountered midway through the run. It’s in my boat and while I don’t completely nobody in sight.” Luckily, the force of the used to be after a prominent boater died in not exceptionally difficult, but it ends just style my line, I keep it straight and hop Forrest begins his explanation, “Well you go water here was only moderate, and with the sieve at the bottom. As we put in below above LZ Falls, a rapid that most people into the small eddy on the right above through some boogie and then the water some careful wiggling, lifting, and pushing, the drop, Forrest tells me that he was the consider a mandatory portage, and one the portage with Forrest’s massive grin splits into two channels. You want to take I manage to pry myself free and continue AW Stewardship first to run this drop. that is not even remotely safe to swim greeting me. the right channel. The left channel goes, but downstream to find a couple of relieved into. Forrest runs S-turn first with no safety. you’ll go underneath some rocks and stuff.” faces waiting for me below. “They told me it was impossible to get He slams into an undercut, gets flipped, We stop for a break at the bottom of the He pauses, “It goes though.” Colorado Flooding right of the sieve and I shouldn’t run it,” smashes his already injured hand, rolls up LZ Falls portage. I share a little food and The whitewater mellows into Class III and he explains. with a grin, and eddies out, staging himself water, having personally accepted the At this point Sean turns to me, shakes his I breathe a great sigh of relief when we The devastating flooding that hit to play catcher in the bottom micro eddy. weight penalty of bringing a few provisions. head and says, “Don’t go left.” Andy warns enter the calm waters of Gross Reservoir Colorado in September 2013 had “But I told those guys that they were full of “This is a great guy to have on your team,” As the snow stops, temperatures warm me that this is a pretty heavy section of and am flushed with the satisfaction of enormous impacts on some of the shit and I could get right.” I think to myself. slightly and there’s a round of discussion whitewater. We proceed downstream, my accomplishment. The usual hordes of state’s best known Front Range regarding the skull caps. Everybody except take the right channel and boof a couple fisherman, lake boaters, and picnickers are watersheds. Among those impacted, ledges and squeeze through a slot at the absent today. This is the kind of weather Boulder Creek, North and South St. The author navigating S-turn on a bottom. The action just keeps coming at that can only draw the most infatuated Vrain Creeks, and the Big Thompson return trip. me as we continue downstream dodging recreationists. As we walk back up to the River reached levels never before Photo by Bridger Steele holes and pin rocks and down another set car, Forrest turns to the group and says, recorded, sweeping houses, roads, of continuous ledges and holes. Forrest’s “who’s in for a second lap?” I know I’m bridges, and entire neighborhoods voice keeps ringing in my head like he’s my done for the day. I’m humbled having downstream. Class IV/V river sensei, “just follow the helmet in front of realized that I just survived my first descent reaches and well-loved playparks are you….” I don’t have a clear mental picture down this notorious hair run with no major choked with twisted cars and trucks, of what we just navigated through, but it issues. But I also know now that I’m a Class remnants of houses and barns, and silt was an outstanding section and I’m at the V boater, and that I’ll return. and debris from cottonwood forests bottom in one piece. scoured by the rushing waters. With the great Boulder floods of September I follow the crew through another long 2013 receding and the wake of destruction American Whitewater has been stretch of read and run steep creeking still being remediated, reflecting on working with federal, state, and until we reach RIMBY, the final rapid. A these adventures holds an even greater local officials to find ways that we wave hole feeds into a glorious 10-foot poignancy. The rare Colorado monsoons can help “rebuild smarter.” We have boof with a knob in the middle of the lip that boaters normally cherish have a once-in-a-generation opportunity that disconnects you entirely from the resulted in several deaths and widespread to coordinate with irrigators and curtain. One by one we launch the biggest destruction of homes and property. With farmers, utility providers, and boof we can muster and collect ourselves rapids on many local runs having changed entire communities to improve the in the pool on river right below. I’m given forever, it’s a reminder that our window on resiliency of our streams, provide some verbal descriptions of how to run the world is only a snapshot. I have friends safe public access to our rivers and the next two ledge holes. They paddle in Lyons who have been displaced from parks, and to re-establish a vibrant relatively smoothly and we regroup in their homes. My own house had significant economy that relies on healthy rivers some micro eddies below. Forrest and flooding only 3 days after my first child and recreation. For more information Andy begin heading downstream, and Sean was born and it’s the same people who’ve about American Whitewater’s River gets flushed out the back of an eddy, turns joined me on my boating peregrinations Access and Flood Recovery efforts, around and disappears over the horizon. I who materialized to help rescue my home. visit americanwhitewater.org. try to get back into the current as quickly As the first snows of the year descend upon
Jan/Feb 2014 37 News & notes Passing It On, With a Nantahala Falls; it happens on a daily We started out on a nearby lake to river to step it up to bigger water and to Twist basis. But in this case it is nothing short introduce the non-sighted participants learn to read and run whitewater. It is a by B. J. Phillips of remarkable. You see, my friend, my to a kayak, paddle strokes, the feel of superb beginning intermediate run! The paddling partner is 100% blind! being in a boat on water, wet exits, bow U.P., or Dirty Bird, as it is affectionately e are approaching Nantahala rescues, and how to lead and follow verbal known locally, is challenging to paddlers Falls. My friend is behind me. His name is Lonnie Bedwell and I met him commands. Then we progressed to a moving up from Class II water. To be honest It is his first descent. I keep on a Team River Runner trip in 2012 in Class I section to actually lead and follow I was somewhat hesitant about us achieving Wturning my head around to be sure he is on Montana at an “Outta Sight” clinic. That verbal commands and how to swim in an Upper Pigeon run in such short time, but line and still upright—he is. Britt Lindstrom trip was his introduction to whitewater current. Lonnie caught on quickly to bow it was my highest goal for this trip. After is behind him, helping make last second kayaking. We paddled the Yellowstone rescues and was performing them with no Lonnie’s success on the Nanty I thought it corrections. I bypass the traditional eddy River that flows out of Yellowstone National problem in moving water. The final step was feasible. at Truck Stop, but yell for him to try to slow Park and into a valley known locally as was a Class II section known as Yankee down some to decrease our momentum Paradise Valley, which is aptly named. Jim Canyon. Although all the non-sighted There were several paddlers now who and approach the middle line (Line B) just It is nestled among the mountains, hills, paddlers/veterans performed phenomenal, wanted to paddle with Lonnie, and, by river left of the top hole while hugging the and the brilliant blue of Montana’s “Big Lonnie Bedwell sort of stood out with his happenstance, we ran into Lou Rudolph, current as close to that hole as possible. Sky Country.” We stay at the ranch of determination to learn this sport! We fast a local paddling friend at the put-in. So This is the easiest line for the Falls, and Mike Story, whose generosity has allowed became friends and agreed to meet and we had plenty of safety. The kayaking is the line that my mentors taught me the participants of this trip to enjoy and paddle together again (He lives in Indiana community knew something special was when I was a novice boater and they were paddle in this scenic area of Montana. I am and I live in Lexington). And we did! going on! I led, Britt Lindstrom was behind “passing it on” to me. I hug the hole and a combat veteran and kayaking has become Lonnie, and a safety net was spread up and start down the green tongue and take one my passion and therapy for the effects of I am a member of the Bluegrass Wildwater Beginning of Power House rapid on the Upper Pigeon. down the river. last look around and yell, “Paddle hard.” war—and for the love of the sport! Association (B.W.A.). Each year the B.W.A. Photo by Linda Tribble He is still behind me on a perfect line. I holds a spring clinic at the Russell Fork River Lonnie ran Powerhouse rapid clean at the hit the curler wave at the base of the Falls On this trip ‘sighted’ paddlers, such as I, on the Kentucky/Virginia border to teach a paddler in Indiana, Lonnie had perfected carnage—but it was good carnage. His put-in. At Lost Guide rapid we went to mid and run it clean; he flips at that wave (not are paired up with totally or partially blind kayaking skills to people just beginning rolling on both strong and weak sides. bombproof roll and paddling skills saved river left following local outfitter Dave unusual for most of us) and does a textbook veterans and we all learn the techniques the sport and more advanced paddling at him from swims more than once and led me Crawford of Rapid Expeditions’ line. Lonnie combat roll. He has run an almost clean and skills of paddling and guiding our higher skill levels. Also, a B.W.A. member, During the summer of 2013 Lonnie once to believe that he was ready for the Upper flipped at the hole/wave at the bottom of first descent. non-sighted brothers and sisters down Adelessa Grace, holds “Adventure” again came to Lexington and we took off Pigeon. So we headed that way. the rapid but he combat rolled to cheers. whitewater. This section of the Yellowstone weekends that do much the same for for Tennessee/North Carolina to do some When we told other kayakers/rafters in the Some will say that there is nothing is Class I/ II. beginning paddlers. Lonnie attended one Southeast boating. Our first run was on The Upper Pigeon may be one of the best eddy on river right that Lonnie is 100% blind exceptional about a first descent at of those in the fall of 2012 at the Russell the Lower Pigeon (Class I/II). Robert Smith “secret” Class II/III sections of whitewater they looked stunned and asked, “How is Fork and again showed great dedication again joined us as I paddled lead, giving in the Southeast, and, in my opinion, a great that possible?” to acquiring the skills to be a paddler. Ron verbal guidance. Lonnie nailed it. Hunt, another combat veteran paddler, and Robert Smith, an Elkhorn City area Lonnie did so well that I decided to skip the local, helped me work with Lonnie at that Hiawassee and go straight to the Nantahala clinic. Both of them said it was one of the (This is a normal progression for Southeast greatest experiences of their kayaking— boaters and the same progression on and personal—lives! Ron gave Lonnie a which my mentors led me). The Nantahala kayak and much gear. Plus, Benchmark is basically a Class II run with, of course, of Lexington donated a new paddle Nanthala Falls (Class III) at the end. It is a (Thanks Benchmark and Neil!), and Lonnie kayaker’s paradise though, with the area never turned back. HE WAS HOOKED ON virtually designed for the river enthusiast. THE SPORT. It was the site of the Worlds Free styling Championships in 2013. For more advanced Between that fall session and the next time skill levels there are releases on the Upper we met to paddle together, with the help of and Cascades periodically. You have read about Lonnie’s first descent, but we tried B.J, Lonnie, Linda Tribble (shuttle god- various other lines and some resulted in dess), and Britt Lindstrom (behind). Photo by Linda Tribble Vegamatic rapid on Upper Pigeon. Photo by Linda Tribble
38 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 39 News & Notes
Vegamatic rapid on Upper Pigeon. Photo by Linda Tribble
The next major drop is Double Reactionary. Britt’s help, flipped at the curler, and did a state paddler, asked him, “Who have you This rapid is one of those confluences of combat roll. been paddling with?” Lonnie told him currents that intermingle in a relatively and Chip thought that he was ready for narrow slot. A strong current from river Sometimes leading and making verbal/ something bigger. left and a stronger current coming in from visual contact with a non-sighted boater the right of the rapid slam into each other is like walking a tightrope where trying to At this time, let me say that we challenged near mid river. The river right current, keep them and yourself on line is not always Lonnie—and myself. We didn’t take easy being dominant, creates a curler wave and easy. Also, as we all know, whitewater has lines or sneaks. We took on difficult lines, becomes the main channel current crossing a way of humbling us at times. The safety caught eddies with squirrelly water, and from river right to river left. It can be tricky boaters gather me, my boat, and my ego crashed through holes. At the age of 62, but fun! up and we head into the final major rapid I keep trying to expand my own paddling called Accelerator. skills with creek runs on the Little River in We took a line shown to me by Brent Austin the beautiful Smokey Mountains this year (B.W.A. Class V boater) that he calls, “a Class We went into that rapid at mid-river right with the help of B.W.A. mentors and the IV move on a Class III rapid.” We skirted where there is a tongue and follow the kayaking community passing it on. I do the holes and negotiated the boogie water main current into a wave train that leads these runs in an old school Wave Sport Big approaching the rapid near river left, then slightly to river left where the main current EZ play/river runner. I am not ready to lie crossed over to mid river above the rapid does an s-curve at the bottom of the rapid. down YET or quit learning this sport that where the kayak almost came to a stall, and Lonnie got off line slightly at the s-curve, I love! then the current along with some paddle but ran Accelerator clean. strokes propelled the kayak towards the Oh, I guess you may be wondering what that head of the curler of Double Reactionary. On the last section of Class II boogie water “something bigger” was for kayaker Lonnie We hit the curler and had a swimmer—it and surf spots we approach a fun boof that, Bedwell. Well, my kayak partner became was me! if hit right, propels the kayak to cop a little the first non-sighted paddler in his own air. Lonnie hits the boof perfect and we boat to paddle the Grand Canyon section I got turned around too much trying end the run of the Upper Pigeon laughing of the Colorado River in late summer of to ensure Lonnie was on line, missed and yelling! 2013 with Team River Runner. the line, and dropped off into a pour- over sideways, got window shaded, Lonnie, once again, attended the Team Awesome stuff dudes! Now that is PASSING and tried repeated rolls to no avail—I River Runner ‘Outta Sight’ clinic in 2013 and IT ON, with a twist! pulled! Lonnie stayed on line with Chip Sell, a combat veteran Washington
40 americanwhitewater.org Books Hendri Coetzee Uganda all the way to Rosetta, Egypt in the art, to be allowed into nature’s VIP lounge the social media sites that continue his portraits of magnificent African landscapes, by Kara Blackmore Mediterranean Sea. Between 1997 and reserved for the viewing pleasure of those memory, and the demand for his memoir. introspectively challenges his thoughts, and 2004 he rafted and guided trips on rivers willing and able to pay the entrance fee, His ripple effect is publicly expressed again crafts a formula for the best day ever. ecognized as one of the worlds in eleven different countries, eight of which still beats anything else I know.” This and again because he derived inspiration best whitewater experts, Hendri are in Africa. 80-kilometer stretch of continuous Class for life from a simple philosophy: “the best The quest for the best day ever is Coetzee coupled philosophy and V rapids eluded the early explorers. In fact, day ever!” According to Coetzee, “It is all exponentially increased during his journey Radventure like a modern incarnation of Holding a base in Jinaj, Uganda, Coetzee it was not mapped until a decade after the about today. Today is the best day ever in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. In and cross between Livingstone, Stanley, opened up sections of river that had debate was thought to be settled around because tomorrow might not happen.” the forest and on the river Coetzee claims Baker, Burton, and Speke. In his newly previously been unexplored. The back the sources of the Nile, for the profound to feel more in touch with the world around released memoir, Living the Best Day Ever, channels, as they were known, were reason that local tribes had used the islands The Book him than ever before. He kayaks monster Coetzee muses about his aspirations to restricted areas of whitewater, not available dotted along the stretch as battle grounds. This story is a timeless tale of a young rapids, lives on a barge, gets captured by dream up an epic river mission. He writes: to commercial rafting but perfect for the man’s quest for wisdom, adventure, and cannibals, finds humor in bureaucracy, “I want the freedom of the unknown. I curious kayaker. The Nile progressively Coetzee, however, was never too identity. Kicked out of his parents’ house and experiences a sense of humanity he want to be a Great White Explorer... I would became Coetzee’s domain and he shared its concerned with warring conditions. He with nowhere to go, Coetzee starts his never expected in the infamous “heart have thought of it sooner, but I had been secrets with those who were brave enough even sought them out as prime places to journey as a lost young man. This epic of darkness.” imprisoned by the belief that the only real to make the trip. This includes leading trips explore by river. Some suppose that his memoir documents his growth from a explorers left on the planet are men so for the likes of Scott Lindgren and Steve comfort with conflict zones came from boy into a self-proclaimed Great White The final journey of this book, and indeed of superior to me that I am only worthy of Fisher down the ‘Murch Section’ (2006), a time in his childhood when he lived on Explorer. Traveling as a white man on Coetzee’s full life, is a kayak expedition that reading about them.” inspiring the young minds of Rush Sturges a military camp. His father was active in a continent that offers no camouflage, goes from his home in Uganda, through and Tyler Bradt, and hosting the Jackson South African Defence Forces. A stoic yet Coetzee emerges with a refreshing and Rwanda, Burundi, Tanzania, and back to The Man family during their annual pilgrimage to the adventurous man bearing the same name truly unique African perspective. the Democratic Republic of the Congo. At Already a trained South African Defense warm waters of the Nile. as his son—Johannes Hendrik Coetzee II, this point he has grown into a man more
Forces medic, Coetzee qualified as a raft or Henk—would have no doubt sought out i Set as a present tense compilation of concerned with political and philosophical guide on the Zambezi in 1997. It was on The golden gem of the Nile’s whitewater is the Angolan attackers that shelled his home luster, Coetzee searched for a more extraordinary expeditions, the story first dilemmas than trivial squabbles with the Zambezi that he started his long-term maintained to be the Karuma to Murchison and threatened his family. For the young metaphysical connection to nature. He joins Coetzee as he leads a navigation of teammates. Introspective curiosities in friendship with Pete Meredith. Meredith Falls section. High on the experience of Hendri, life on the frontline was terribly used solo expeditions and the meditative the Nile from source to sea. His justification Living the Best Day Ever provide a high mentored Coetzee as he grew from a exploring undisturbed African wilderness, exciting, a place where he learned how state they offered as a vehicle to explore for attempting a first descent of the world’s dose of self-deprecating humor where self-confident young paddler into an Coetzee reflected, “The days of the great to practice the departure to and return his motivations. He walked along the longest river through two critically unstable he constantly pokes fun at his ego and his introspective explorer. The pair are most explorers who walked and sailed into blank from battle. East African Coastline from Mombassa war zones is, “I need something worth identity as the Great White Explorer. recognized for their journey along the continents and oceans are gone. People to the Rufigi River, a distance of over living for, or more importantly for my Nile in 2004, when they spent over four like me are cheap copies and wannabes. I When rivers seemed to be too conquerable 1000 kilometers. Later, in 2009, he advanced case of superhero dementia, Filled with history and prophetic prose, this months journeying from the source in Jinja, don’t care. To be here, to see this piece of and expeditions started to lose their spent six months alone in the Congolese something worth risking my life for.” During is a book that will inspire. It will make the wilderness. While in the DRC he pushed the the four months on a raft Coetzee grapples reader laugh and, at best, it will give the BEST DAYBEST EVER boundaries of paddling by attempting the with issues of leadership. He is continually outsider an unrivaled view into the life of second descent of the Kinsuka rapids with plagued with the social intricacies of a modern day African explorer.
LIVING THE hand paddles. expedition travel and tries to untangle his HENDRI COETZEE failures within the group. Nature, both human and wild, mesmerized LIVING THE Coetzee. His unparalleled experiences To reconcile this issue of Recognised for his unique approach “ He preferred to assume that plenty The Hendri Coetzee Trust was to extreme adventures, Johannes was still unknown, and to accept founded in the aftermath of were paired with academic and spiritual leadership Coetzee decides Hendrik (Hendri) Coetzee was a that fear was the price you paid BEST DAY Hendri’s passing. As a group endeavors. He nurtured his thirst for that maybe traveling alone true African explorer; a modern for paddling into Nature’s secrets.” of dedicated friends and family, day incarnation of the nineteenth- The Economist, Obituary, December 29, 2010 we strive to commemorate and knowledge through an honors degree in is more his style. In two century mould of Livingston, Stanley, advance Hendri’s legacy through HENDRI EVER Baker, Burton and Speke. A South This is a true story of the greatest his inspirational philosophy of Psychology from the University of South subsequent chapters he African, born in 1975, he ventured African explorer you have never heard life and adventure. into the depths of Africa evoking of. Equipped with a core philosophy and Our primary focus to date has Africa and a three-month meditation becomes the only man the legacy of his predecessors when a lot of luck, Hendri Coetzee embarks been publishing this memoir. In he jokingly referred to himself as course in Thailand. to kayak solo in Uganda’s on a series of increasingly outrageous purchasing this book you have a ‘Great White Explorer’. Coetzee adventures in search of what he calls made Hendri’s dream come spent more than a decade risking COETZEE Murchison Falls National the best day ever. alive. Further to that, you have his life on the riverine veins that supported the possibility for pulse thorough the heart of Africa, Through a series of harrowing and often Coetzee’s story does not end with the last Park and walks for days hilarious experiences, he is subjected to others to live “the best day ever.” only to discover an intangible way to gruelling challenges in the most unique paddle strokes of December 7, 2010. He is down the Tanzanian feel most alive. and compelling classroom on earth: the rivers and jungles of Africa. considered a whitewater legend for pushing coastline. Not clouded *For more information about the Hendri Coetzee Trust go to boundaries and encouraging others to by the distractions of www.hendricoetzeetrust.com live their dreams. This is evidenced in the social dynamics, Coetzee awards that have been named in his honor, in these chapters paints viii ix
Hendri dust jacket.indd 1 08/08/2013 11:52
42 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 43 Remembrance Vermont Law School Remembers Alan Panebaker by Megan Hooker
lan Panebaker touched many lives across the country, including ours at American Whitewater, Awhere he served as our New England Stewardship Director for a short time. Alan was a skilled paddler with a passion for river conservation, and he graduated from Vermont Law School in 2011 with the skills and tools he needed to protect the rivers he loved. Alan’s untimely death in a kayaking accident in September 2012 shocked and saddened us all, and hit the Vermont Law School community particularly hard. Alan loving his time on New York’s Beaver River. Photo by Ryan Mooney During his time at Vermont Law School, Alan was known as an avid outdoor fellow students at VLS knew they had to months, Vermont Law School will install enthusiast, but he was equally recognized find a way to honor his memory. this sculpture and hope it will serve to for his strong passion for environmental remind students of this balance and of the advocacy and his hard work invested in that A group quickly came together and exceptional life Alan lived. field. He participated in the Environmental started raising funds to name the student Moot Court and worked as a student workroom in the school’s Environmental Last fall, a year after Alan’s death, Alan’s clinician at the Environmental and Natural and Natural Resources Law Clinic for Alan. professors, family, friends, and classmates Resources Law Clinic, giving legal support As part of this gift, a Panebaker family gathered to remember Alan and formally to communities fighting for environmental friend, Sandy Graves, designed a bronze dedicate the room in his name. It was clear justice. When the news of Alan’s death sculpture that, when completed, will that their efforts had served not only to reached campus, Alan’s professors and represent how Alan lived his life—balancing honor Alan’s memory, but also helped hard work with adventure and joy. In a few those closest to him stay connected and help each other through their grief. The ceremony brought some closure to a tough year, and also celebrated a life well-lived. As Alan’s classmate Leslie Welts noted, Alan “unapologetically lived in the moment, whether in the classroom, on the river, or sharing a beer with friends. Alan packed more into his short 29 years than many people could in 50.” Become a member of the American Whitewater Enduring Rivers Circle, To learn more about the Alan Panebaker Memorial Fund, visit http://connect. created exclusively to honor and recognize people who have helped to vermontlaw.edu/panebaker continue our river stewardship efforts through a gift to Sandy Graves works on the bronze American Whitewater in their estate plans. sculpture that will go in the Alan Panebaker Student Workroom at Vermont For more information about making a bequest to American Whitewater Law School. Photo by Janet Panebaker CONTACT Carla Miner: 1.866.262.8429 or [email protected]
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48 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 49 Remembrance Chuck Singer head caught between the raft side ropes It’s Easy to Support AW! Tribute to a Friend and and tube—Chuck wearing nothing more American Whitewater is proud of the work we have accomplished in our stewardship Legend than his river shorts, dove into the water, program but we need your help to sustain our success. Your support through within seconds freeing the girl’s head from membership and donations enables our staff to be active and engaged in the process by Sue Taft the entrapment. His lanky body belied his of river stewardship. Donations don’t have to be large; each person doing a small part strength, endurance, and skill. He carried makes a noticeable difference. Many donors fail to take full advantage of federal tax incentives specifically intended to encourage charitable contributions. Such incentives huck Singer was a father, a dive mask and often swam the river and often enable a donor to make a larger gift to AW at little or no additional cost. For husband, and companion, but it eddies below Dimple using underwater more information about maximizing your gift visit the IRS website dedicated to is Chuck, the paddler, that many rocks as hand holds in search of lost glasses, charitable organizations. Cmay recall as friend and mentor. Chuck was watches, and rings that he returned to very much a legend in his time as evidenced their owners. American Whitewater is a national non-profit 501(c)(3) organization, EIN# 23-7083760. To learn more about the Giving Options below, contact us at by the outpouring of sadness, love, and 866-BOAT4AW or visit the “Donate” link under “Support AW” on our website at loss from the paddling community when Chuck also paddled rivers in Central and www. americanwhitewater.org news of his death spread. As one paddler South America, South Africa, Southeast noted, “There was no more generous and Asia, New Zealand, and Australia—the • Donate online today! decent spirit than the one this great and more notable being the White Nile and • Monthly Giving: Contribute a minimum of $10 via credit card or electronic transfer humble man brought to everyone he met Zambezi in Africa, Tully in Australia, Buller from your bank account. and everything he did.” in New Zealand, Futaleufu, Bio Bio (before it was dammed), Upper Misahyakki and • Bequests: Include AW in your will or living trust. Bequests to AW are Chuck truly embodied the spirit and essence Upper Quijos in South America, and generally exempt from federal or state inheritance taxes, and subject to an unlimited deduction. of whitewater boating. He lived a life that in Central America and Mexico, the often revolved around his passion—being Congrejal, Sico, Reventezon, Pacuare, • Combined Federal Campaign: Federal employees including federal civilians, on water, but notably, being on whitewater. Chuck on the lower Yough (PA). Actopan, Micos, Naranja, Poscados and military personnel and U.S. Postal Workers can donate to AW through the CFC a He never got over his enthusiasm from his Photo by Ohiopyle Adventure Photography Tampaon rivers. Being unpretentious once a year charitable fund raising program. Look for AW (Agency #11351) in the earliest intro to whitewater on a Keel Hauler and frugal, he often avoided the typical official CFC listing of eligible donors. trip in 1971 to his death when he should inadvertently fitting for Chuck’s somewhat instructional sense but in the eastern- tourist destinations, choosing instead • Charitable Remainder Trusts: Convert a highly appreciated asset (such as real estate have been getting ready for yet another unkempt river persona at the time. style master sense. One kayaker observed memorable paddling vacations designed or stocks) into a lifetime income while minimizing income and estate taxes. trip (which would have made more than a that “Watching Chuck size up a rapid is around low-cost travel and lodging, and dozen) on the Grand Canyon. Chuck died But Chuck was more than just a kayaker. like watching someone choose a piece of blending in with local culture and customs. • Employer Matching: Many employers will match your donations to non- profit organizations. This includes membership payments, as well as additional on the scheduled put-in day, May 5. When He was a consummate and gifted paddler. chocolate from an assortment box…. He His travels were not about marking off contributions. Check to see if your employer has a matching program. asked what the worst thing about kayaking He paddled kayak, C-2, raft, and shredder— actually stops dead and examines it, then rivers, countries, and continents from a list, was, he responded, “When it’s over.” all exceptionally well. After his early works his way through the rocks like it’s a but much more about absorbing culture • MissionFish: Sell your items through the MissionFish program on eBay and the retirement in 1991 at the age of 50, he maze, stopping completely at times and and diversity, establishing himself as the proceeds come directly to AW. Described as a scruffy-looking hippie-type, guided for MS&T (Mountain Streams and rotating his boat 180 degrees, if required.” perfect ambassador for paddlers wherever • Other Assets: A gift of real estate to AW qualifies you for a tax deduction based Chuck often responded that he considered Trails) in West Virginia and Pennsylvania Another noted that Chuck was one of the he went. on the property’s fair market value. If it is not a river access point, AW will sell the himself “ruggedly handsome.” Yet scruffy endearing himself to fellow raft guides most generous kayakers giving to the property and use the proceeds to protect access and restore rivers. Acceptance of was an apt description. He had long, and customers alike. Many of his trips paddling community more than money or Many of us celebrated his life in our own property is subject to certain conditions. You may also be eligible to receive tax scraggly hair and beard, and often wore down the Grand Canyon were the result things. “He gave his time and commitment way upon hearing of his death. The guides benefits for gifts of real property. Art and jewelry are examples of personal property mismatched, sun-faded or patched gear of invitations on private trips, not only to those of us who were learning to kayak, of MS&T celebrated his life with their own items that may be eligible. Interested donors should check with your financial and tax advisors and AW on the feasibility and tax considerations of such gifts. on the river. Style was of no concern to because of his boating skills but because then he taught us to love and respect the special party and paddle on the Cheat. His him; utility was. Chuck didn’t even stylize of his personality. Chuck was unpretentious river and nature, and most importantly, ashes were split between his two home • Securities: Donating appreciated stock to AW benefits both the donor and his home-built fiberglass kayaks—he built and self-deprecating with a dry sense of he taught us to live the good life!” Chuck rivers, the Vermilion in Ohio and the whitewater rivers. The donor receives two tax-related benefits. First, the gain on the them with no color, just semi-transparent humor. He got along with everyone and was also pragmatic. In sharing early spring Youghiogheney where he had a cabin in the stock is not subject to capital gains taxes. Second, the donor can deduct the value of the stock as a charitable contribution. resin and glass. He belatedly moved into was particularly good at defusing tense rivers with fishermen he would say, “Never woods outside Ohiopyle. As one paddler the plastic era in 1985 when he ordered situations. He was also the person you anger ANYONE who can stick some sharp, succinctly put it, “If you look carefully the • United Way: All federal campaigns, and a few of the local campaigns will allow you a multi-colored Perception Mirage, one wanted along to handle unexpected pointing thingy in your body.” next time you paddle by Swimmers, you to donate to AW. AW’s UNITED WAY member # is 2302. where yellow and blue resins were added circumstances, whether it was dealing with may see him surfing the wave while juggling to the ends and then mixed during molding. a life and death river crisis or jerry-rigging When river runs dried-up in the summer, some river rocks. His memory will remain • Vehicle Donations: Turn that extra car, truck, or RV into a tax deductible donation benefiting AW. Of course, the result was a middle section a solution for malfunctioning equipment. Chuck was often found sitting at Vulture in our hearts forever”…and always with a marbled with various shades of (some Rock overlooking Dimple on the Lower smile on his face. would say unappealing) green, perhaps Chuck readily shared his knowledge Yough. Responding to a raft flip one day and expertise, not in the traditional where a girl popped up entrapped—her
50 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 51 Affiliate Clubs Aw’s Original Purpose Arizona Missouri Tennessee by carla miner Grand Canyon Private Boaters Assn, Missouri Whitewater Assn, St Louis Appalachian Paddling Enthusiasts, Discounted AW Join American Outdoors Unlimited, Flagstaff Ozark Mountain Paddlers, Springfield Limestone The Affiliate Club Program lies at the very Arkansas Ozark Wilderness Waterways, Kansas City Chota Canoe Club, Knoxville Membership for Whitewater as a heart of American Whitewater’s existence. Arkansas Canoe Club, Little Rock Montana East Tennessee Whitewater Club, Oak Ridge Affiliate Club Club Affiliate! American Whitewater’s original purpose California Beartooth Paddlers Society, Billings since 1954 has been to distribute information Plateau Eco-Sports, Cookeville 10 Reasons to Join AW California Floaters Society, Cameron Park Nevada Tennessee Eastman Hiking and Canoeing Members among its Affiliate Clubs. Our relationships Chico Paddleheads, Chico Sierra Nevada Whitewater Club, Reno as an Affiliate Club with local clubs have provided the backbone Club, Kingsport By Carla Miner, Membership Manager Gold Country Paddlers, Lotus New Hampshire Tennessee Valley Canoe Club, Chattanooga 1. Support river access and for the river conservation and access work we Sierra Club Loma Prieta Paddlers, San Jose AW offers a discounted Affiliate accomplish. We have over 100 current AW AMC New Hampshire Paddlers, Raymond Texas restoration through the AW River Club membership of $25, a $10 Club Affiliates and they are all doing great Colorado Merrimack Valley Paddlers, Nashua Rockin ‘R’ River Rides, New Braunfels Stewardship Team. savings. If you are renewing your work on your behalf. If you don’t belong to a Avid4 Adventure Inc., Boulder New Jersey Utah Colorado Whitewater Assn, Denver 2. Be part of a national voice for the club, consider joining one. AMC Delaware Valley Chapter, Oaks High Jim and the A.S.K., Salt Lake City AW membership or joining as a new Dolores River Boating Advocates, Dolores KCCNY, Flanders member, select the Affiliate Club protection of the whitewater rivers Friends of the Arkansas River, Canon City Utah Whitewater Club, Salt Lake City Our Affiliate Club Spotlight this issue is on the Discounted Personal Membership your club values. Viking Canoe Club an outstanding Affiliate Friends of the Yampa, Steamboat Springs New Mexico Vermont Club and long time supporter of our mission Pikes Peak Whitewater Club, Colorado Springs Adobe Whitewater Club of New Mexico, Vermont Paddlers Club, Montpelier online at http://americanwhitewater. 3. Tap into the professional expertise to conserve and restore America’s whitewater San Miguel Whitewater Asso, Telluride Albuquerque Virginia org/content/Membership/join-AW/ of AW staff for river issues that resources and to enhance opportunities to Connecticut New York Creek Freak Paddlers, Rocky Mount Or, if you are renewing or joining by come up in your backyard. enjoy them safely. AMC - Connecticut Chapter, Waterbury ADK Schenectady, Schenectady Float Fishermen of Virginia, Roanoke mail or telephone just mention the 4. Your club’s members can become Delaware AMC NY/NJ Chapter, New York Washington name of the Affiliate Club you belong The Viking Canoe Club located in Louisville, Colgate University, Hamilton AW members for $25. A $10 AMC Delaware Valley Chapter, Oaks BEWET- Boeing Employees Whitewater & to and you can take advantage of the Kentucky promotes and encourages the FLOW Paddlers’ Club, Rochester savings! recreational navigation of wild and scenic Wilmington Trail Club, Newark Hamilton College, Clinton Touring Club, Bellevue $25 membership. rivers; promotes conservation of wild and EPIC Adventures, Cheney Georgia Housatonic Area Canoe & Kayak Sq., A list of AW Affiliate Clubs can be 5. Receive the American Whitewater scenic rivers; develops paddling skills through Georgia Canoeing Asso, Atlanta Ossining Paddle Trails Canoe Club, Seattle Journal, the oldest continually instruction, training and participation in Spokane Canoe & Kayak Club, Spokane found on our website at http:// Paddlers4Christ, Ellijay KCCNY, Flanders published whitewater magazine. canoeing and kayak events; and promotes Zoar Valley Paddling Club, Buffalo University Kayak Club, Seattle americanwhitewater.org/content/ appreciation for the beauty of our wild and Idaho Washington Kayak Club, Seattle Membership/join-AW/. If you do 6. Your club is recognized in the list Idaho Whitewater Association, Boise North Carolina scenic river resources for the recreational Washington Recreational River Runners, Renton not see your Club listed here please of Affiliate Clubs posted to the AW value of wilderness cruising, camping, canoe North Idaho Whitewater Boating, Post Base Camp Cullowhee, Cullowhee West Virginia Falls Carolina Canoe Club, Raleigh encourage them to renew their website. racing and whitewater sports. Dbl Z! Whitewater Club, Fayetteville Illinois Landmark Learning, Cullowhee Club membership or to join AW as 7. Recognize your club in the list of Triad River Runners, Winston-Salem Mason Dixon Canoe Cruisers, Berkeley Membership in the Viking Canoe Club is Chicago Whitewater Assn, Chicago Springs a new Affiliate Club. Your Club’s Affiliate Clubs noted in each bi- an affordable $21 and includes discounts on Western Carolina Paddlers, Asheville Indiana WVU Whitewater Club, Morgantown membership and your personal monthly AW Journal. roll sessions and a parking pass to Elkhorn Ohio Ohio Valley Paddlers, Evansville West VA Wildwater Assn, S. Charleston membership enable our staff to be Acres (Elkhorn Creek put-in). Club meetings Columbus Outdoor Pursuits, Columbus 8. Post Club information on the AW are held the first Tuesday of each month at Wisconsin active and engaged in the process Iowa Keelhauler Canoe Club, Clevland Website to help paddlers find you. El Tarasco in Louisville. Fellowship begins Iowa Whitewater Coalition, W. Des Toledo River Gang, Toledo Hoofers Outing Club, Madison of river stewardship. When you join at 6:30pm and the Club meeting follows at Moines North East Wisconsin Paddlers, Inc., or renew your membership your 9. Gain Club satisfaction from lending Oregon Neenah 7:30pm. To learn more about the Viking support is helping to meet the many support to AW’s stewardship Canoe Club check out their website at http:// Kentucky Eugene Kayaker, Eugene Sierra Club/John Muir Chapter, Madison Bardstown Boaters, Bardstown, challenges whitewater rivers face. efforts. vikingcanoeclub.info/ or join them at one Lower Columbia Canoe Club, Portland Wyoming Bluegrass Wildwater Asso, Lexington Northwest Rafters Association, Roseburg of their meetings to learn about their river American Packrafting Association, Wilson If you have any questions about the 10. Improve your club members river stewardship and outdoor activities. Viking Canoe Club, Louisville Oregon Kayak and Canoe Club, Portland Oregon Whitewater Association, Beaverton Ontario Affiliate Club membership, please karma. Maine contact me. I can be reached at A big thank you to the Viking Canoe Club Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society, Troy PDXKayaker, Portland Guelph Kayak Club, Elora For more information, contact Willamette Kayak & Canoe Club, Corvallis Kawartha Whitewater Paddlers, The 866_BOAT-4AW or membership@ for their continued support of American Maryland Carla Miner at membership@ Whitewater and our mission to conserve and Kawarthas americanwhitewater.org. Blue Ridge Voyageurs, Silver Spring Pennsylvania americanwhitewater.org or sign-up on restore America’s whitewater resources and to AMC Delaware Valley Chapter, Oaks British Columbia enhance opportunities to enjoy them safely! Greater Baltimore Canoe Club, Baltimore line at www.americanwhitewaer.org/ Monocacy Canoe Club, Frederick Bradford County Canoe and Kayak Club, Sayre Thompson Rivers Univ Adventure Studies, Canoe Club of Greater Harrisburg, Kamloops membership. The AW Jour nal Club Affiliates by state: Massachusetts Harrisburg Alaska AMC Boston Chapter Paddlers, Boston Conewago Canoe Club, York Fairbanks Paddlers, Fairbanks UConn Kayaking, Amherst Holtwood Hooligans, Paradise Nova Riverrunners Inc., Chickaloon UMass Outing Club - Whitewater Lehigh Valley Whitewater Inc., Lehigh Valley Kayaking, Amherst Alabama Philadelphia Canoe Club, Philadelphia Three Rivers Paddling Club, Pittsburgh Birmingham Canoe Club, Birmingham Minnesota Coosa River Paddling Club, Montgomery Minnesota Canoe Asso, Minneapolis S. Carolina Huntsville Canoe Club, Huntsville SCSU Outdoor Endeavors, Saint Cloud Foothills Paddling Club, Greenville Palmetto Paddlers, Columbia
52 americanwhitewater.org Jan/Feb 2014 53 $35 americanwhitewater.org/join gear bag, twice asimportant. Cheaper than anything inyour
Rok Sribar and friends, East Fork Kaweah, CA. © Darin McQuoid