The Cuillin Ridge

INTRODUCTION reached Bruach na Frithe and we opted to bail out from there. The following THE CUILLIN RIDGE week I persuaded another party, similarly Many myths abound on how to succeed wet and dejected to dig just a wee bit Tips for success by Mike Lates on “the Greatest Mountaineering deeper. We skirted Am Bastier and the Challenge in Britain.” Tooth and were on top of Gillean in less than an hour. The celebrations were not These are based on the experiences of in the least bit tempered by the bypass, individuals with wildly different fitness so small was the significance compared to levels, climbing skills, familiarity with the the achievement of completing a Cuillin Cuillin and luck with the weather Ridge Traverse. conditions. This document is an attempt to give a broader insight for aspirants of different WHAT IS THE CHALLENGE? abilities. The challenge is simply to traverse the My first attempt was a failed winter Cuillin Ridge in a continuous style. The Traverse at Easter in 1987. As a team of 4 reward is an intensely satisfying blend of we had hardly lost sight of the Sligachan hard physical and mental work mixed with Hotel before having to admit defeat after some of the best scenery in the world. Blaven View of Ridge two hard days and one very unpleasant night. The Cuillin is a cirque formed by a huge extinct volcano that erupted about 70 The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s The most highly recommended are Skye When I first moved to Skye I adopted the million years ago. Subsequent weathering finest mountaineering challenge The Cuillin by Harvey’s Maps and an lightweight approach (see appendix c.) and erosion has left the Cuillin Bowl split, appendix at the end of the superb book with reasonable success, being on the down almost to sea level, by Glen Sligachan The Cuillin by Gordon Stainforth. spot whenever the weather turned good. that runs essentially north to south. Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous For a period I prophesised that “ if you chain stretching over twelve kilometres. Introduction can do it 2 days with a bivvy pack you can The Main Ridge lies on the western side They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one • What Is The Challenge? definitely do it in a single day.” of Glen Sligachan and forms the “Great of the finest and longest Alpine-style • What Grade Is It? Traverse” which is the classic route. rock-climbing routes in Europe with over • How Long Does It Take? Rapid reappraisal of this advice became 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and • Preparation necessary when friends and clients arrived The “Greater Traverse” continues by descent. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse is • The Expedition with restricted time available. Weather crossing Glen Sligachan at sea-level then arguably the finest climb in Britain. • On Route watching developed into an obsessive re-ascends the eastern Black Cuillin to • Conclusions habit in order to identify the optimal time finish over Clach Glas and Blaven. Being Mike Lates has been a mountain guide on • Appendices to start, snatching success between bouts about twice as long the Greater challenge Skye since 1995 and has completed more of westerly gales. It became obvious that is not often undertaken. than fifty Traverses including a Greater a Is the Ridge the finest climb in Britain? an overnight bivvy was necessary more Traverse and two in full winter conditions. b The Route often than not. The starting point, where The Ridge Traverse most closely resembles He sheds light on many of the most c The Style to aim for overnight shelter and which a huge Alpine rock route. Great demands frequently made mistakes and suggests d What to carry route options to take were all affected by are made on route finding, fitness, climbing dozens of practical solutions. e Time Schedule the timing of the magical weather ability, rope-work and teamwork. Ease of f Weather Forecasts window. escape makes the level of commitment Maps and route descriptions are not g Short-roping for such a huge route comparatively small. included as a large number of these are h Miscellaneous Good Practices An early lesson for me was the difference It is only this factor that undermines the available from well-stocked climbing i Common reasons for failure between failure and success. One party Ridge’s potential status as one of the shops and, increasingly, on the internet. were suffering badly by the time they biggest classic mountaineering routes in 01 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 02 Complex Route ofinding North of An Dorus Ideal Bivvy! Cuillin Magic Europe. Weather conditions are frequently avoidable. Three abseils normal in HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE? PREPARATION as harsh as they are on mountains with far good conditions. higher elevation. Skye is at the latitude of - Descent. 6km, 900m of descent. 57 degrees north! Scrambling (300m) then rough walking. Although the record for the Traverse is Prior planning prevents poor performance. less than 3.5 hours it is worth remembering Everything from getting the right partner, Sadly the ease of escape also makes the For those with little experience of Alpine that this is the same as the record for practising together down to how many Ridge one of the most frequently “failed- climbing grades it is possible to think of ascending and descending the Matterhorn karabiners to carry should be thought about. on” routes in the world. The commitment the lower grades as largely equating to from Cervina! (Also circa 3000m.) It’s a good excuse to get together with to succeed must be strong for all members scrambling grades used in the UK up to your climbing partner for a few beers at The following times are based on clear of the team throughout an attempt. As with grade III (grade 3 or Moderate). In the home or, even better, a day out in the dry weather conditions for a well-balanced all great climbs it gives a heightened sense Cuillin, as with the Alps, there are many hills together. team of 2 with suitable fitness and of achievement denying oneself the easy sections that include down-climbing at climbing experience. Find a climbing partner of compatible way out, especially on such a long route. the same grades. fitness, ability and drive that you fully - Approach. 2-4 hours depending To most Brits there is then a notable leap trust your life with. on starting point. WHAT GRADE IS IT? in standard at Grade IV. It can require - Traverse. 9-16 hours. Have a practice day on a scramble in significant rock climbing skill with confidence - Descent. 2-3 hours to sea level. Snowdonia, the Lake District or Scotland. at the British climbing standard of Very A British rock-climbing grade is simply not Descend the same route for a more realistic Difficult. On the continent these pitches applicable to the Traverse. It is an Alpine One Bivouac is normal assessment of your abilities. Carrying a large tend to be either bolted or pegged to such route in terms of the terrain; exposure and pack adds even more reality to the exercise. techniques needed and should be graded a degree that even those with little A word of caution accordingly. The following summary should climbing skill can force their way up. No If an Alpine route has a guidebook time Practice moving together on a short rope. give an experienced alpinist a good idea such luxuries exist on the three main climbs of 12-20 hours with one bivouac normal You will definitely benefit from it in the of what is involved: on a Ridge traverse and all protection I treat it with the utmost respect. If it Cuillin and on forays to the Alps. must be placed by the leader. involves 4000 metres of ascent and 4000 - Approach. 7km 900m of ascent. metres of descent I start training hard. Studying photographs and compiling a The TD gap and Naismith’s Route are, Rough walking, If of the route is along exposed ridges time-schedule will prove very useful when arguably, both grade V. Confidence - Traverse. 12km. 3000m ascent and I know my head is going to be fried by the time comes (see appendix e.) leading routes of the British Severe 3000m descent! Scrambling over the end. Nobody that I know has ever standard is recommended for climbs exposed terrain grade I, II and III. Three completed a Ridge Traverse and thought of this standard. pitches of rock climbing at grade IV, all it was ‘easy’. 03 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 04 tenuous to follow but crampon scratches in the morning. Breakfast is far easier to are increasingly common. digest after about an hour of the route has warmed you up. It is worth waiting If you have the bivvy gear consider taking for the rock to dry on some occasions a proper break with a brew after 5 or 6 hours. however. I’m sure that overnight dew is It does marvels for morale and can help greasier than normal rain! everyone to do a couple more crucial hours. On first attempt make your priority to Bivouac north of Banachdich if at all get to Gillean! Appendix b. has a large Looking Back to the Bivvy Short Roping possible. An Dorus is, time-wise, halfway. number of timesavers that can make the An ideal bivvy is open to the stars and difference between success and failure. Northern lights etc but there is a huge THE EXPEDITION TO SKYE weather. However, always keep a close eye benefit to be gained by finding some Dream about a big session in the hotel on on the weather as it changes very rapidly overhanging shelter if rain is likely.

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