INTRODUCTION reached Bruach na Frithe and we opted to bail out from there. The following THE CUILLIN RIDGE week I persuaded another party, similarly Many myths abound on how to succeed wet and dejected to dig just a wee bit Tips for success by Mike Lates on “the Greatest Mountaineering deeper. We skirted Am Bastier and the Challenge in Britain.” Tooth and were on top of Gillean in less than an hour. The celebrations were not These are based on the experiences of in the least bit tempered by the bypass, individuals with wildly different fitness so small was the significance compared to levels, climbing skills, familiarity with the the achievement of completing a Cuillin Cuillin and luck with the weather Ridge Traverse. conditions.

This document is an attempt to give a broader insight for aspirants of different WHAT IS THE CHALLENGE? abilities. The challenge is simply to traverse the My first attempt was a failed winter Cuillin Ridge in a continuous style. The Traverse at Easter in 1987. As a team of 4 reward is an intensely satisfying blend of we had hardly lost sight of the Sligachan hard physical and mental work mixed with Hotel before having to admit defeat after some of the best scenery in the world. Blaven View of Ridge two hard days and one very unpleasant night. The Cuillin is a cirque formed by a huge extinct volcano that erupted about 70 The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s The most highly recommended are Skye When I first moved to Skye I adopted the million years ago. Subsequent weathering finest mountaineering challenge The Cuillin by Harvey’s Maps and an lightweight approach (see appendix c.) and erosion has left the Cuillin Bowl split, appendix at the end of the superb book with reasonable success, being on the down almost to sea level, by Glen Sligachan The Cuillin by Gordon Stainforth. spot whenever the weather turned good. that runs essentially north to south. Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous For a period I prophesised that “ if you chain stretching over twelve kilometres. Introduction can do it 2 days with a bivvy pack you can The Main Ridge lies on the western side They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one • What Is The Challenge? definitely do it in a single day.” of Glen Sligachan and forms the “Great of the finest and longest Alpine-style • What Grade Is It? Traverse” which is the classic route. rock-climbing routes in Europe with over • How Long Does It Take? Rapid reappraisal of this advice became 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and • Preparation necessary when friends and clients arrived The “Greater Traverse” continues by descent. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse is • The Expedition with restricted time available. Weather crossing Glen Sligachan at sea-level then arguably the finest climb in Britain. • On Route watching developed into an obsessive re-ascends the eastern Black Cuillin to • Conclusions habit in order to identify the optimal time finish over Clach Glas and Blaven. Being Mike Lates has been a mountain guide on • Appendices to start, snatching success between bouts about twice as long the Greater challenge Skye since 1995 and has completed more of westerly gales. It became obvious that is not often undertaken. than fifty Traverses including a Greater a Is the Ridge the finest climb in Britain? an overnight bivvy was necessary more Traverse and two in full winter conditions. b The Route often than not. The starting point, where The Ridge Traverse most closely resembles He sheds light on many of the most c The Style to aim for overnight shelter and which a huge Alpine rock route. Great demands frequently made mistakes and suggests d What to carry route options to take were all affected by are made on route finding, fitness, climbing dozens of practical solutions. e Time Schedule the timing of the magical weather ability, rope-work and teamwork. Ease of f Weather Forecasts window. escape makes the level of commitment Maps and route descriptions are not g Short-roping for such a huge route comparatively small. included as a large number of these are h Miscellaneous Good Practices An early lesson for me was the difference It is only this factor that undermines the available from well-stocked climbing i Common reasons for failure between failure and success. One party Ridge’s potential status as one of the shops and, increasingly, on the internet. were suffering badly by the time they biggest classic mountaineering routes in

01 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 02 Complex Route ofinding North of An Dorus Ideal Bivvy! Cuillin Magic

Europe. Weather conditions are frequently avoidable. Three abseils normal in HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE? PREPARATION as harsh as they are on mountains with far good conditions. higher elevation. Skye is at the latitude of - Descent. 6km, 900m of descent. 57 degrees north! Scrambling (300m) then rough walking. Although the record for the Traverse is Prior planning prevents poor performance. less than 3.5 hours it is worth remembering Everything from getting the right partner, Sadly the ease of escape also makes the For those with little experience of Alpine that this is the same as the record for practising together down to how many Ridge one of the most frequently “failed- climbing grades it is possible to think of ascending and descending the Matterhorn karabiners to carry should be thought about. on” routes in the world. The commitment the lower grades as largely equating to from Cervina! (Also circa 3000m.) It’s a good excuse to get together with to succeed must be strong for all members scrambling grades used in the UK up to your climbing partner for a few beers at The following times are based on clear of the team throughout an attempt. As with grade III (grade 3 or Moderate). In the home or, even better, a day out in the dry weather conditions for a well-balanced all great climbs it gives a heightened sense Cuillin, as with the Alps, there are many hills together. team of 2 with suitable fitness and of achievement denying oneself the easy sections that include down-climbing at climbing experience. Find a climbing partner of compatible way out, especially on such a long route. the same grades. fitness, ability and drive that you fully - Approach. 2-4 hours depending To most Brits there is then a notable leap trust your life with. on starting point. WHAT GRADE IS IT? in standard at Grade IV. It can require - Traverse. 9-16 hours. Have a practice day on a scramble in significant rock climbing skill with confidence - Descent. 2-3 hours to sea level. Snowdonia, the Lake District or Scotland. at the British climbing standard of Very A British rock-climbing grade is simply not Descend the same route for a more realistic Difficult. On the continent these pitches applicable to the Traverse. It is an Alpine One Bivouac is normal assessment of your abilities. Carrying a large tend to be either bolted or pegged to such route in terms of the terrain; exposure and pack adds even more reality to the exercise. techniques needed and should be graded a degree that even those with little A word of caution accordingly. The following summary should climbing skill can force their way up. No If an Alpine route has a guidebook time Practice moving together on a short rope. give an experienced alpinist a good idea such luxuries exist on the three main climbs of 12-20 hours with one bivouac normal You will definitely benefit from it in the of what is involved: on a Ridge traverse and all protection I treat it with the utmost respect. If it Cuillin and on forays to the Alps. must be placed by the leader. involves 4000 metres of ascent and 4000 - Approach. 7km 900m of ascent. metres of descent I start training hard. Studying photographs and compiling a The TD gap and Naismith’s Route are, Rough walking, If of the route is along exposed ridges time-schedule will prove very useful when arguably, both grade V. Confidence - Traverse. 12km. 3000m ascent and I know my head is going to be fried by the time comes (see appendix e.) leading routes of the British Severe 3000m descent! Scrambling over the end. Nobody that I know has ever standard is recommended for climbs exposed terrain grade I, II and III. Three completed a Ridge Traverse and thought of this standard. pitches of rock climbing at grade IV, all it was ‘easy’.

03 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 04 tenuous to follow but crampon scratches in the morning. Breakfast is far easier to are increasingly common. digest after about an hour of the route has warmed you up. It is worth waiting If you have the bivvy gear consider taking for the rock to dry on some occasions a proper break with a brew after 5 or 6 hours. however. I’m sure that overnight dew is It does marvels for morale and can help greasier than normal rain! everyone to do a couple more crucial hours. On first attempt make your priority to Bivouac north of Banachdich if at all get to Gillean! Appendix b. has a large Looking Back to the Bivvy Short Roping possible. An Dorus is, time-wise, halfway. number of timesavers that can make the An ideal bivvy is open to the stars and difference between success and failure. Northern lights etc but there is a huge THE EXPEDITION TO SKYE weather. However, always keep a close eye benefit to be gained by finding some Dream about a big session in the hotel on on the weather as it changes very rapidly overhanging shelter if rain is likely. Keep the way down but be aware that you will and you don’t want find yourself looking at eyes peeled toward the end of day one. probably be asleep after the first pint! Weather watching will be the main pre- the cloud-free Cuillin from 50 miles away! occupation of a well-prepared team. Ideal Many folk carry a light tarpaulin conditions are most common when the wind ON ROUTE is coming from an easterly direction (from Water is not as difficult to find, as myths CONCLUSION northerly round to south-easterly.) If strong would have you believe. Carrying too much wet westerlies are forecast consider staying Day 1 water is as common a cause for failure because the rucsac weighs too much. Success! Congratulations. What do you on the Mainland until a change appears. Conserve energy on the uphill approach fancy on your next trip? unless the weather window is very tight. The best idea for many teams is to research Carrying a cup makes collecting from This is the longest continuous ascent with Failed? Most of us fail at first attempt. I crucial sections of the Ridge. Most of small run-offs possible in many places. your packs at their largest. Eat and drink spent a torrid night in an orange sac and these are classic routes in their own right. Lets face it it’s not often that it hasn’t regularly. Carry no water until the last down bag on a tiny snow ledge and took Again use the chance to practice moving rained in Skye in the previous 24 hours! river is crossed. 3 hours to climb 100 metres in a blizzard together on a short rope. Most commonly I descend (with caution) the next morning. The hot sun came out as Keep moving at a steady pace. Take on we descended and stayed for the next 3 days. Stashing food, water and bivvy gear is a with all the bottles in an empty rucsac as food and water when rope work slows the good idea only if you can guarantee far as necessary. It is rarely more than a pace naturally. Check progress against your What went wrong? What went well? reaching the stash and relocating your 40-minute exercise if a bit of intelligence schedule regularly. If you are behind by The Ridge won’t fall down; learn from your equipment. If it is fine enough weather to is used. Ideally you make this collection from a significant percentage adjust your route experiences and come back better prepared. consider stashing equipment it’s usually directly below your bivvy site taking enough to avoid the rock climbs (see appendix b.) fine enough to be starting the attempt. to cook, brew tea and still leave 2 litres each Currently I estimate that less than 10% of for the following day. (Carry flattened Many teams often waste a good window There will always be a weaker team member. parties setting off to attempt the Ridge empty containers for this purpose!) of weather by stashing gear only for the Help out climbing partners who are struggling. succeed. This document is my attempt to weather to close in for the rest of their Even just transferring a bottle of water can Eat and drink as much as possible overnight. change attitudes, provide information, trip. Litter from teams that have failed to make a big difference to someone’s balance. Don’t worry about having to get up for a pee- and improve that success rate. find or reach their stash is commonplace. Conversely- accept help if you are slowing this is time to replace calories and rehydrate. Please label them with dates for which down the attempt. Moving roped together Some of my ideas will be controversial, even taken as provocative, but they are they are to be used and make every can remove a lot of stress in weaker Day 2 attempt to remove them yourself. members of the team if done properly. borne out of fourteen years of If day one was too slow and you are behind concentrated experience and, undeniably, If the attempt is immanent keep crucial If lost, the best advice is to climb up to your schedule consider stashing the bivvy obsession. kit dry, rest and carbo-load then set off the crest above- the chosen line for most gear for collection over the next few as soon as the weather improves. people traversing in good weather. days. Make a good note of its location and In my humble opinion the Cuillin Ridge Descending the crest can be enough to make sure it can’t blow away. Traverse is a strong contender for the finest There are some wonderful coastal crags on bring you back below the cloud level or climb in the British Isles. I would like to Skye if the mountains are holding bad generally to easier terrain. This can be Often I get up and go after one brew see it given the respect that it deserves.

05 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 06 the sky and landscape. The western Approach from Loch Scavaig. 2 hours. horizon is dotted with islands each with Base yourselves near (or in) the JMCS hut its own mystical appeal. High peaks are on the shore or take a boat in from Elgol. spread as far as the eye can see back Aesthetically this is the most satisfying across on the Scottish mainland to the east. start and is significantly shorter. The quality of light is legendary and really has to be seen to be believed. It is possibly Many people choose to start at the first due to Skye being at the latitude of 56 Munro, Sgurr nan Eag or even the TD Gap. degrees north. The Northern Lights I consider this a practical decision akin to (Aurora Borealis) can frequently be seen taking a lift in the Alps rather than cheating. although not so easily in mid-summer when Conditions may lend themselves to a purer the sky never really gets dark. Traversing Traverse on the next attempt. through the night during these halcyon periods is certainly not unheard of. Others choose to start by the Dubhs Ridge or even via the Cioch. Climbing in such an awe-inspiring arena is a privilege not on offer in many other For a north to south Traverse parts of the world. Reach Bealach na Lice via Fionn Coire APPENDICES Technical difficulties requiring rope-work are limited to half a dozen key obstacles One attraction is that a Cuillin Ridge from the head of Glen Brittle in 2 hours. when weather conditions and climbing Traverse is, technically, well within the Fill up with water 100m below the Ridge. a Is the Ridge the finest climb in Britain? ability are suitable. grasp of many mountaineers who consider Start on Naismith’s route, traverse to b The Route themselves as lower-grade climbers. Gillean and then return to packs by c The Style The recommended summer direction goes Equally, aspirants are not as committed turning Am Bastier on the Sligachan side. d What to carry from south to north because a wonderful when traversing this 3000 metre climb, A Breakdown of Sections e Time Schedule smooth rhythm can be achieved. as they would be if ascending a vertical f Weather Forecasts Interestingly this doesn’t seem to work route. Similar routes in the Greater Ranges South end from Gars bheinn to Bealach a’ g Short-roping in the opposite direction. tend to be technically harder, far more Coire an Lochain. Easy scrambling. (2 hours) h Miscellaneous Good Practices committing and with difficult access. i Common reasons for failure Route finding is one of the biggest joys “Coire Lagan” from the TD gap to the of climbing with all the emotions of fear, The Cuillin Ridge Traverse is a truly a In. Pinn. Rock climbing, abseiling, trepidation and relief compounded into dream route but doesn’t give itself up route-finding and exposure. (3 hours) appendix a – is the ridge the finest both micro and macro-navigation. The easily. Many a climber has spent years climb in Britain? Great Traverse gives over 12 km of this piecing the Traverse together before Southern mid-section from In. Pinn. to wonderfully absorbing and intense finally achieving their dream. Mhadaidh. Easy scrambling with exposed stimulation. ridges. (3 hours) Justification for such a grand accolade cannot be made purely with statistics but The sheer length of the route and its appendix b – the route Northern mid-section from Mhadaidh 3000 metre routes are very rare even in the challenges offers indulgence on a scale to Bruach na Frithe. Hard scrambling, Alps. The biggest attraction is undoubtedly unrivalled in the British Isles. The lowly Starts navigation, abseiling and exposure. (4 hours) the joy of so much continuous high altitude just serves to disguise the fun that Approach Gars bheinn from Glen Brittle. quality climbing. the Cuillin offer, leaving them wonderfully North end from Bhastier Tooth to Gillean. 3 hours. quiet for those who love their solitude. Rock climbing, route-finding and hard, Most of the climbing is of the simplest, exposed scrambling. (2 hours) Go via Coire Ghrunnda to keep dry feet purest and most exhilarating form, following At its best standing on top of the Cuillin and fill up with a lot of water only 100m the crest of an obvious narrow ridge. There is akin to perching on a crown that lies in The Rock Climbs below the crest of the ridge. Involves is a need for hands and total concentration a bed of jewels. The Isle of Skye is encircled going out and back but with no packs if Thearlaich- Dubh (TD) gap. 20 metres. but rarely a rope. In dry conditions the rock by the clear Hebridean seas that reflect done cleverly. UK grade Severe. (Alpine grade IV/ V) is of the very highest quality. As with all and enhance the already vivid colours of good routes the interest is continuous.

07 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 08 Reminiscent of many Ogwen valley Take slings for 2 thread runners and 3 good To return to Coruisk descend the Tourist traditional polished routes. The Gap spikes. There are a number of medium/ Route then descend between Sgurr Beag succumbs most easily to those adopting large sized nut placements. and Sgurr nan Uamha to the floor of Glen a fighting approach. An un-nerving “pop” Sligachan. (3 hours). (Dropping into Harta is unavoidable on the crux manoeuvre. Bypasses Coire and crossing the Druim nan Ramh Luckily this is no worse when carrying Too many teams have failed as early as the in a more direct line is a painfully a rucsac. TD Gap when they have become embroiled frustrating “short-cut.”) in queues at this notorious bottleneck. Take five slings for three thread runners From Gars-bheinn a rapid scree run still A 3-hour hold-up is not unusual with both and two spikes, one of which forms a exists before a long wet section eventually leaders and seconds struggling often solid belay. allows the new footpath to be picked up followed by a frustrating bout of sac hauling. below Coir a’ Ghrunnda. (2 hours) Kings Chimney. 25 metres. This seriously compromises chances of UK grade Difficult. (Alpine grade III/IV) completing the Traverse. appendix c – the style A beautiful corner climb that finishes across To bypass the Gap across the top of a steep slab, which becomes the crux in Coire a’ Ghrunnda and traverse Sgurr The most effective method is to be open- Alasdair takes only 25 minutes and keeps minded right up to the point at which the wet conditions. Off Balance with Bivvy Pack the crucial flow going. (Saves 1- 3 hours) forecast is good. The list of approaches Take 3 slings for threads and good spike below is not complete and my opinions Other timesaving bypasses include: Bidean Druim nan Ramh. Undoubtedly the belay. A few medium-sized nut runners saviour of many a flagging attempt. A on their merits are purely personal. My also protect the route. favourite approach is to walk out to the An Garbh Caisteal. You should certainly scree/boulder descent on the Glen Brittle south end in the evening, bivvy, leave the down climb this on the N. W. corner rather side followed by a short rise to Bealach a Inaccessible Pinnacle, east ridge. 70 metres. gear and do the whole ridge lightweight than get into abseiling unnecessarily as Harta. (Saves 2 abseils and well over an UK grade Moderate. (Alpine grade II/ III) the following day. many do. Alternatively bypass the Caisteal hour of time.) Only one awkward move but the route in under a minute on the Coruisk side Collie’s route onto the Bastier Tooth rather The one-day push. Favoured by the is always very intimidating. If pitching the (saves 10 or 20 minutes.) than Naismith’s. Despite an initial 150m soloist there are not many teams competent route take care to avoid the rope snagging. enough to enjoy this experience. Generally Sgurr Dubh Mor is not on the main Ridge descent Collie’s route allows a team to Good belay at 30 metres. the last few hours become a blur of and should only be done if you are avoid roping up and pitching towards the exposure and dehydration. If you are both moving well and wish to bag all of the end of a hard day. Very often my preferred There are at least 7 good spike runners. competent and exceptionally fit it has a Munros. Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn is both choice. (Saves 25 minutes.) lot to be said for it. There are more abseils possible than the traditionally and logically the peak to Descents one from the fixed chain. Use imagination, include. (Saves over half an hour.) The full-scale bivvy approach. “A good cooperation and courtesy to avoid queuing Fastest is usually to leave packs at Bealach way to ruin the best scrambling in Britain” Collies Ledge instead of Kings Chimney- one at busy times. a Bhastier. Go up then back down the West someone once said. Carrying a huge rucsac classic route exchanged for another. Ridge of Gillean before a fairly direct makes flowing movement and balance very Naismith’s Route. 35 metres. (Saves up to half an hour.) descent to Sligachan. (2.5 hours) difficult to maintain. This approach is often UK grade Severe. (Alpine grade IV/ V) needed, however, to get around awkward Bypass An Stac. Good for giving the brain a Continuing over and down the Tourist Route A serious and exposed route to weather windows. Very often I leave the gear rest if not the legs. Not my favourite dodge. is less technical but the way is not easy to undertake at a late stage of the Traverse. at the bivvy site to get back on schedule find in mist. It also goes away from the Good protection is difficult to arrange In Pinn. Should not be avoided. Queues for day two. hotel/beer to start with. (2.5 hours) until after the crux move. should give priority to Ridge parties but The lightweight bivvy approach. Only only if you are soloing or moving roped Descending Pinnacle Ridge is class itself. Rope drag and communication is a problem recommended for the balmiest of summer together. Ascending the short side or It is possibly even better than in ascent but if attempted in one pitch. A good belay can nights when there are very few hours of South Crack and then setting up your certainly only for teams still feeling really be arranged by traversing 10 metres round darkness. Wet weather and long nights own abseil is often quickest and least good. (2.5 hours) from beneath the huge overhang to a large frustrating way around large numbers. often send many teams shivering back ledge on the south face. to base at dawn. 09 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 10 appendix d – what to carry Shared - Route Description Equipment List - Harvey’s map of the Cuillin - Compass and whistle This equipment list should be reduced - Small personal first aid kit greatly if a bivvy is not going to be made or if the forecast is very good. Minimise Climbing Gear – weight by shaving down rock gear (see Based on steady VS leader standard The Rock Climbs in appendix b.) and very careful calculation of food requirements. Keep the sac compact, with radical Personal removal of emergency clothes and rations. - Harness with a cows tail attached My opinion is that a GPS is close to - Belay plate plus one screw gate, useless in the Cuillin. Photography should - prussic loops plus screw gate Sleep Happy! not be a high priority as it wastes valuable Clean cooking with gas - Helmet time. A good digital camera will weigh The pre-stashed bivvy approach. This great nothing and allow quick snaps to be Team Water sounding idea relies on too many factors turned into masterpieces at home! - 40 metres of lightweight single rope Carry 2 litres maximum at any one time. in all but the best of weather periods. Many teams end up with duplication of - 5 sewn slings (240cm) with krabs Fill up as high as possible on approach. Reaching the gear and recognising where pen-knives, first aid kits, contact lens - 3 nuts on rope/dyneema with snap gate Carry capacity to collect extra for the it was stashed are critical to success. solutions etc. All this preparation can be - 3 or 4 wires to cover other sizes bivvy and following day. Tube from camel Predicting how far along to pre-place carried out (with a pair of weighing scales) - 3 or 4 extenders with krabs not sewn in packs work well as a siphon for collecting the gear is also a gamble. at home. - 1 friend with snap gate from small sources, as do mugs. North to south traverse. Logistically works - Abseil tat- 3 @ 3 metres Worn Food well as it can all be done from Glen Brittle. Technically more demanding and doesn’t - Man made fibres, not cotton. A varied supply is needed for 24 hours of Additional Equipment for Bivvying flow well with more abseils and rope-work - Trousers not shorts effort. There will be quite a lot at the required. Too easy to give up before - Base layer, light fleece, start- good motivation to eat lots on the reaching the “Summit” of Gars Bheinn - Well broken-in, light to medium - 2-3-season sleeping bag with man approach but don’t get carried away! by bailing out in Coire’ a’ Ghrunnda weight walking boots made filling - Good socks - Gortex bivvy bag On a 2-day Traverse I will typically My favourite approach is to walk out to - 30-50-litre rucksack preferably with - Sleeping mat long enough to reach consume: the south end in the evening, bivvy, leave detachable frame and no side pockets head to hip - 6 sandwiches the gear and do the whole ridge - Plastic mug - 2 packets crisps (salt) lightweight the following day. Carried - Penknife and spoon - 20 dried apricots - 4 chocolate bars - Waterproof jacket and trousers - Spare underwear and dry socks Most commonly I take a boat in, carry bivvy - 6 cereal bars - Hat and 2 pairs of gloves gear for day one, then decide whether to - 3 Mr K Angel Slices as snacks, - Spare fleece (not as well as bivvy Team leave the overnight gear or not. “pudding” & breakfast gear though!) - Small gas stove with 2 pans max - Head torch in good working order. (new - 2 Lighters Overall I aim for a mix of savoury and batteries, no spares) - Single Malt Whisky of your choice. sweet about 50:50. Treat yourself to I subscribe to the school of sleep lightweight luxuries and don’t take just 20 benefits outweighing a wee bit of cereal bars. dehydration.

11 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 12 Main meal appendix f – weather forecasts appendix h – miscellaneous good Research the Ridge I prefer as much quick-cook pasta as practices The best recipe for success is, possible with various sauces & meats. I get every forecast possible (then I undoubtedly, to learn it intimately before One pan used also used as a shared choose the best!) and try to make my Choose your dates making an attempt. Unhindered by a plate. heavy pack a competent aspirant can own interpretation. My schedule ideally Weekend trips are not long enough for most cover, and learn, most of the Ridge in 2 takes in all of the following: and rarely justify the huge journey to Skye. Brews long days. Good visibility is highly A week gives you the best chance of a Sunday recommended to make recognition of A half litre kettle with sealed lid stays suitable weather window. Mid-summer 11-30 Country file or Landward 5 day key navigation features easier. It’s worth clean & boils fast. Tea, coffee and hot allows climbing around the clock in good forecast. BBC. noting that these days are often far more water all taste better with the addition of weather so extends the chances of getting pleasurable than the Traverse itself with a sugar and whisky! a window that lasts long enough. Daily less pressure, less gear and no fixed goal. 07-55 Highland forecast on BBC Radio I aim for a mix of savoury and sweet Scotland- the most reliable for the Research the route about 50:50. Treat yourself to lightweight appendix i day by far luxuries and don’t take just 20 cereal You will need 18-20 Grampian TV Weather - Harvey’s map of the Cuillin. (1:12,500 bars. Common Reasons For Failure flick to BBC1 national enlargement of the Ridge.) Pot noodles make suitable bivvy food if 18-50 Heather Weather. BBC1 Scotland - Route description. Widely available in - The climbing team they can be fitted in and only require hot 19-10 Radio Scotland forecast for guidebooks and also on-line. - The weather water. hill walkers - Photographs and diagrams of the - Navigation and research 22-30 latest satellite pictures on BBC1 and intricate sections of the Ridge. - Fitness High-energy gels and bars are good but Grampian following national news - Take note of escape routes, bypasses - Tactical approach need to be supplemented with ‘desirable’ and water sources. - Rope-work snacks. Long-term forecasts should only be used to plan the ideal build-up to an attempt. Fitness Treat your choice of partner much as you It is crucial to weather watch in all but the appendix e – time schedule. would for an Alpine route- don’t encumber most settled of periods. Levels of fitness are hard to quantify but yourself with any combination of unfit, This is a reasonable schedule for an runners tend to have the best gauge of nervous or inexperienced partners. Don’t experienced team with no previous I mainly use the MWIS and Metcheck where their fitness lies. A runner capable invite all your mates- the lowest common knowledge of the route but with dry Internet sites. of completing a marathon in less than 4 denominator always dictates how slowly clear conditions. It assumes the carrying hours probably has a good enough level the party will move. Two is the ideal of manageable bivvy packs and does not If you’re not confident in the forecast do of fitness. include time spent bivvying. It also gives something else. A washed out traverse is number; larger parties exponentially a good guide to maximum times for any party a horrible, often scary experience. Practicing at home decrease their chances of success. attempting the challenge in a single day. appendix g – short roping Moving across a boulder-strewn beach, The weather balancing along kerb stones or a kiddies Approach. 3 hours Don’t get confused by the rumour that Arrive TD Gap. 5 hours adventure playground is more suitable The black art of moving together on a you can climb on gabbro in the wet. It Arrive In Pinn. 8hours training than indoor climbing walls for a short rope is the best technique I have may be applicable to the steady controlled Arrive An Dorus. 11 hours Ridge Traverse. Find out what affect a big ever learnt in climbing. The “one off, all movement up a rock climb but not moving Arrive Bealach na Glaic Mor. 12 hours pack and wet conditions make to your off” vision must be overcome with some at speed on a continuously exposed and Bealach a Harta. 13 hours ability. lateral thinking and plenty of practise. narrow ridge for 12 kilometres. Bruach na Frithe. 15 hours It is an ancient technique that served Pack your ruck sack together and before Sgurr nan Gillean. 17 hours Guidebook times for the Traverse are based the Victorian climbers well on routes that you leave home. (See appendix d.) Sligachan hotel. 20 hours on good weather conditions- dry rock and many of us still dream about. Another clear visibility. Prior knowledge of the route download will be available soon with can get around the problems of navigation details of how to practise and improve but wet rock seriously affects everyone. your technique.

13 www.skyeguides.co.uk www.skyeguides.co.uk 14 As a sweeping generalisation wet rock takes Tactical approach twice as long to move across as dry rock. Details of the route and route-choices The crest of the Ridge does, however, dry along the way are well documented. almost immediately after rain, which Many put the emphasis on taking the makes a traverse in showery conditions still “Purist’s” line, often with a tone that is possible. akin to cragging, where success by any other means is considered as inferior or Ideally choose to ‘go for it’ when dry cheating. The reality in mountaineering is weather is forecast and the tops are clear that staying alive and using extreme of cloud. Look for a weather-window of cunning to succeed is both prudent and 24 hours or so. Easterly winds tend to be normal behaviour. drier than westerlies. (see appendix f.) For me the primary objective is to reach Navigation and route finding “the Summit” of the challenge. If conditions have been treacherous but Time wasted on route finding is hard to Gillean is still reached many more catch up and very draining. There are difficulties have been overcome than huge numbers of tempting false lines and during a Traverse in perfect conditions. the right line is often the least likely The “Summit” is generally accepted as looking option. There is no substitute for Sgurr nan Gillean (if traversed from south knowing the route intimately before to north) or Gars bheinn (going north to attempting the full Traverse. This research south.) is not only important but great fun, a factor that is often overlooked in a rush Rope-work to tick the Ridge. There are actually only three pitches of Fitness roped rock climbing and four abseils involved in following the recommended Ascend and descend 4000 metres of route from Gars Bheinn to Gillean. Many mountain in a 24-hour period. This is not people resort to abseiling sections that a level of physical output that can be just should be down-climbed and pitching on “dredged” up on the spur of the moment scrambling terrain. Generally this is and has to be worked on by most people. because of nerves in one or all members of the team. Carrying a large Rucsac is bearable on good footpaths but balancing along the The correct technique to adopt for such narrow crest and climbing steep rocks is a situations is to move roped together totally different proposition, both hard which is not a common practise in the UK work and very nerve-wracking. but is normal in the Alps and Greater Ranges. The mental fatigue created by total concentration for the duration is another Learning this black art should be done in factor often underestimated. advance not during your attempt.

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