September 2014 | No. 205

September 16th – Group Program

Phil Wortman Presents: Climbing Fast and Light Phil Wortman will be giving the September presentation on Phil will be presenting on the many facets that make light and Climbing Fast and Light. Phil originally moved to fast climbing safe and successful. He will also discuss what Springs from an Army assignment and started rock climbing in happens when things do not go according to plan. Phil’s light 1999. He added ice climbing to his repertoire in 2004 and and fast experiences range from the Triathlon, shortly thereafter also started climbing mixed climbs. CMC which includes biking from Boulder to the Longs Peak members may have also seen Phil working the aisles at the Trailhead, a run to the base of the Kieners route, a climb up Mountain Chalet in downtown Colorado Springs. In the the 5.5 Kieners route, and then back down to Boulder. In Summer of 2008, Phil started working for Pikes Peak Alpine 2012, Phil and Pete Lardy did a one day climb of Liberty Ridge, School and also completed the AMGA Rock Guide Course. which includes crossing two glaciers and an 11,000+ foot ascent and another 11,000+ descent in a single day over semi- technical terrain. This year saw Phil and his “Ninja Alpinism” capture a prized ascent of the Moonflower Buttress, which includes thirty pitches on Mt. Hunter, Alaska. Even more amazing, his team flew out of the Springs on a Wednesday after work and returned by Tuesday morning, not bad for thirty pitches of hard technical climbing in Alaska. Lastly, Phil does all this while working full time as a District 11 teacher at Palmer High School and a husband to his wife Jini.

Please join us at 7:30 p.m. at All Souls Unitarian Church, 730 th N. Tejon St., on September 16 and learn techniques to increase your speed and endurance in the mountains.

1 Conservation Corner Your PPG Council Ice Cave Creek Trail Project Complete! Chair – Rick Keetch (Interim) 719-634-1165, [email protected] Eight work days, 250+ Past Chair – Rick Keetch volunteer days, and 3000' 719-634-1165, [email protected] of new trail is complete! Thank you to everyone BMS Director – Collin Powers who helped work on the 719-685-2470, [email protected] new Ice Cave Creek Trail Conservation – Tom Mowle over the past year. There 719-216-3932, [email protected] are now better hiking and Education & Training – Eric Hunter biking options out of 719-266-9647, [email protected] Palmer Lake, including access to the rock domes Equipment Manager – Tom Mulcahy 719-482-8821, [email protected] further up Ice Cave Creek, loop options between the Membership – Tony Eichstadt Reservoirs, and longer 740-601-3611, [email protected] trips to the cliffs, the Newsletter – Dave Anderson plane crash, or the full 13- 719-484-9069, [email protected] mile loop! Some of this Outings –Chris Mattingly will be included in the 719-268-6774, [email protected] next edition of CMC's Best Hikes – Colorado Springs. Programs – Roger Kilcoyne Larger maps that include 719-323-3740, [email protected] this area are The Pikes Public Relations – Neil Butterfield Making progress on Section 30 Peak Atlas and Pocket 337-258-2365, [email protected] Pals Maps 13 and 14. You Assisting – Christie Lee can download very large 719-635-2336, [email protected] scale maps at Rocky Safety & Leadership – Paul Schoell Mountain Wild. 719-440-7777, [email protected] On September 13th we SESI – Christie Lee will hike one of those 719-635-2336, [email protected] loops, and as we go clear Sergeant at Arms – Heather Ditmore away fallen logs and trim 719-217-7417, [email protected] vegetation encroaching Treasurer – Jackie Crouch on the trail. Sign up here 719-231-3513, [email protected] for the Ice Cave Lop & Chop. At Large: Mike Erickson 719-482-5062, [email protected] Doug Hatfield 719-200-9488, [email protected] Greg Long 719-659-0345, [email protected] Mary Mourar 719-633-2614, [email protected] Interested in serving on the Pikes Peak Group Day 8 group photo Council? Please contact the Chair.

2 Member Contribution

Climbing the By Stephen Nypaver III Long ago, when I was young, I stood at a hotel window In We were a little old to climb Switzerland’s Matterhorn, but Zermatt, gazing out on the Matterhorn. I was drinking my first we were fairly sure that we could climb Colorado’s glass of gluhwein, and hoped to have two to three days of Matterhorn. good skiing. A snow plume came off the top of the We stopped for a delicious lunch (I ate my favorite, enchiladas Matterhorn, and I remembered reading accounts of climbs of de mole poblano), at La Paraiso, a Mexican restaurant in the North Face of the Matterhorn. Looking at the mountain, I Gunnison. After an enjoyable walk around the square in Lake thought I could climb it too, but not its North Face. City, we drove west on County Road 20, a dirt road, to a junction with a four wheel drive road, Number 870. After two more miles, we turned onto a steep four wheel drive spur, Number 870.2A. Ned worried a bit, because he had never been on a road quite as rough. We soon arrived at the Matterhorn Creek Trailhead, at about 10,700 feet, and chose the remaining campsite to set up our tents. We planned to start our ascent at 6:30 a.m. At 5:30 a.m. it was cold—about 35 degrees. We heated some water for cider, tea, coffee, and oatmeal, and started our ascent at 6:35 a.m. with just about frozen hands. As we hiked north on Trail 233, we saw Peak (14,015 feet) to the north. Matterhorn Peak was between two 14ers, Wetterhorn Peak to the west and (14,309 feet) to the east. Two other climbers quickly overtook us. They were two young Sherpas who planned to climb Wetterhorn Peak. I had never met Sherpas on a climb in the Starting up the rock pile of Matterhorn Peak’s summit pyramid Rockies. The following year, a friend and I drove to Cervinia, in Italy, to We continued for a few miles on Trail 233, until it started to ski on the south side of the Matterhorn. The Italians call it descend into a valley to the west of Uncompahgre Peak. On Mount Cervino. We learned that you could ski from the Italian our left, a wooden trail sign indicated “Matterhorn Trail” and side to the Swiss side, but the wind and snow prevented us pointed toward the summit of Matterhorn Peak. We would from skiing over the lower slopes to Switzerland that day. go northwest up the grassy southeast slope of Matterhorn Since my U.S. Army sponsored “Grand Tour” of Europe came Peak. But the Matterhorn trail quickly faded away. So now we to an end, I was not able to fulfill my dream of climbing the started to zigzag up, and snowfields kept us hemmed in from Matterhorn. But now, after retiring, I thought of it again. I the east. Soon we were in midst of vast expanses of mountain thought that it would be great and a good conversation wild flowers. One predominant flower was “Old Man of the starter to talk about climbing the Matterhorn. My regular Mountains,” a short yellow sunflower. So, here we were, two climbing partner, Gordon Denison, regrettably declined my old men making their way up through a sea of Old Man of the invitation to go on the climb. But my neighbor, Ned Shade, Mountains. Out of respect and good mountaineering ethics, eagerly said that he would go. Even at 82, Ned was in great we tried not to step on any of the Old Men. shape, and really wanted to get up into the mountains again. At around 13,000, rocks took over from grass and wildflowers. Ned and I began to plan our adventure, looking over maps and Soon we came to a talus field, and stopped by a large rock routes and choosing a time when we hoped the weather with a small cairn on top. We gazed on the summit pyramid, would be good. During our final meeting, as we watched one and it scared us. It was a pile of steep, loose rock, with some of the World Cup football games, we finalized our plans. solid vertical rock ribs. A route description stated that a On Thursday, July 17, Ned and I were ready. The weather traverse across would lead to another approach to minimize forecast predicted good weather, sunny and in the 60s, the steepness of the climb to the top. But a very long, sharply maybe low 70s, but perhaps a little cold at our selected camp. sloped snowfield blocked the way. Ned said that he would not We decided to share driving to Lake City, Colorado. That’s go any further, and I just about thought that it was too right, Lake City. We would climb Colorado’s Matterhorn Peak dangerous for me. It was frightening to look up to see what at 13,590 feet, about twelve miles to the west of Lake City. had to be climbed to get to the top. (continued on next page)

3 Member Contribution (continued)

In twenty minutes, I stood at the top. I was thrilled, but my knees shook a bit as I stood on some wobbly rock. Or was it my legs that wobbled? I could see a climber far away on top of Wetterhorn Peak, and we waved at each other. I had to move a little forward to be able to look down and see Ned. The views of all the mountains, some with lots of patches of snow, were majestic. I signed the summit register, and noticed that there were not a lot of signatures on it. Back in Lake City, we stayed with our Matterhorn theme and found a room in The North Face Lodge. Robin, the owner of the Lodge, showed us her office coffee table - a huge elephant saddle that she acquired in India. Amazing. Now, Ned and I celebrated our successful adventure at The Cannibal Grill (remember that Alfred Packer ate five Democrats near here in the late 1800s after they were stranded in a winter storm, and Alfred was tried and convicted of murder) with an early On top of Matterhorn Peak dinner and some Alaskan Amber Ales. We thought our I would give it a try. I left my poles, and started immediately waitress was from Germany but she told us that she was from to use my hands to hold onto rocks for balance and safety. I The Slovak Republic. She came from a town not far from my looked at the rock near and above me, to find handholds and grandfather’s boyhood home, Spisske Vlachy. I am always footholds. I would not look down, since that would not help amazed at who you would meet when you leave home. I me going up. It did not seem so bad now that I was climbing. asked her “Jak se mush?” (how are you?) “Dobry” (good), she Ned later told me that, as he watched me scale the rock, he replied. Ned and I were good too. We were up in the did not know what he could do to help me if I fell. I knew that mountains and had really enjoyed our trip and climb. too, so I made sure that all of my holds were good.

Tours by Steve LLC – Adventure Trips for 2015 Advertisement

Dolomites – Northern Italy 10 nights including 1 night in a refugio, 2 nights in a 3 star hotel and 5 nights in 4 star hotels. This is a first class trip that will be led by a local English speaking guide. It includes all breakfasts and 7 dinners; some are 5 course meals. This is a moderate hiking trip that most anyone can do. See for yourself why everyone loves the Dolomites. First 2 weeks of September 2015. Tour du Mont Blanc 13 nights, 9 days of hiking, and 3 rest days in spectacular locations. It includes all breakfasts, 6 dinners, and baggage transfers on all but one night. This is one of the top classic hikes in the world and includes France, Italy, and Switzerland. This hike around Mt Blanc is over 100 miles and is more strenuous than the Dolomite trip. It will be led by a local English speaking guide. Last 2 weeks of July, 2015. It should be great for wild flowers! Many CMCers have enjoyed these trips over the last 10 years. I can also put together private trips for you. Both trips will go with a minimum of 4 people and a maximum of 12 people. Both trips are priced well below similar offerings from US adventure companies. Call 719-633-2761 or email [email protected] for more details.

4 PPG Classes

Pikes Peak Intro to Mountain Biking September 9, 11, 13, 20, 27, 2014 Learn the gear, maintenance, safety, and entry level techniques for basic mountain biking. Mountain biking is a great way to enjoy the wilderness with a little more skill and finesse, of getting out for a short outing after work, and for building cardio before a big climb. There will be two classroom sessions in Colorado Springs and three field sessions for the mountain biking class. The cost is $40. There are also rental costs if you don’t own the gear. The mountain biking classroom dates are 9 and 11 Sep, and the field dates are 13, 20, and 27 Sep. A general fitness level to go on a full day bike ride is required for the field sessions. The field sessions will be progressive in nature to build on skills. For class details, please contact Eric Hunter at [email protected]. Pikes Peak Intro to Desert Trekking and Canyoneering September 24, 28, October 1-5, 2014 If you have only been hiking in the high altitude for your summers, there is another world out there. When you have climbed enough peaks to wonder what other environments might be out there, the next step for you may be desert terrain. Come learn the proper gear, safety, and entry level techniques for basic desert trekking and basic canyoneering. There are many nuances to this environment that should warrant a safe approach such as provided by this class. The course cost is $60. The classroom session will be in Colorado Springs and is on 24 Sep. There is a one day field session in Colorado Springs to cover some basics and evaluate fitness levels scheduled for 28 Sep. Then we go on a five day trip to the desert scheduled for 1-5 Oct. This year's desert trip is planned for the San Rafael Swell in Utah. A general fitness level to go on a full day hike with mild scrambling with little to mild exposure in hot terrain is required for the field sessions. The field sessions will be progressive in nature to build on skills. Attendance at the classroom session and local field session will be required to attend the Utah trip. For class details, please contact Eric Hunter at [email protected]. Trip Leader Training – Safety and Leadership September 25, October 2, 5, 2014 This is one of two required courses necessary to obtain the CMC trip leader certification. Completion of this course along with Wilderness First Aid (WFA) will allow you to lead trips through the CMC. (It is suggested that if you are a current leader and it has been five or more years since you attended this course, that you take it to refresh your skills at no cost.) Some of the topics covered are: CMC leader and trip requirements, leader skills, group dynamics, emergency procedures, and website operation. There will be two evening classroom sessions and a field session. The cost of this course is $25. For details (and if you are a current leader wishing to take this course as a refresher), please contact Paul Schoell at [email protected]. Wilderness First Aid (WFA) October 9, 16, 18, 2014 To enhance your safety on all trips, the Pikes Peak Group continues to offer a Wilderness First Aid course. This sixteen hour accredited course includes instruction devoted to medical evaluation and treatment in situations where definitive medical care is not readily available. It’s highly recommended that all members take this course to ensure they know and understand what to do in a wilderness medical situation. This intensive, hands-on course consist of two evenings of classroom presentations and activities followed by a full day of practical training in the field. (CPR training is not part of the WFA curriculum. Accredited CPR training is available immediately following the WFA course for those that would like this additional training. A separate sign up is required for the CPR course.) Completing a WFA course is a requirement for those desiring to lead CMC trips. Because the principles and procedures of dealing with medical situations are not repetitively practiced by most trip leaders, current trip leaders should also take this course to renew their WFA training. The cost of the course is $50. For details please contact Paul Schoell at [email protected]. Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR) October 18, 2014 Knowing CPR can be live saving. So as a benefit to all CMC members, the Pikes Peak Group is offering a CPR training course. If you never had CPR training or if it’s been a while, this two hour accredited course is for you. It includes the latest classroom instruction and hands-on training in CPR/AED for the Adult/Child/Infant (chocking conscious and unconscious). The cost of the course is $28 and the number of participants is limited. For details please contact Paul Schoell at [email protected].

To register for classes or trips, go to www.cmc.org

5 September PPG Trips

Banana Rock Friday, 8/1/2014 Moderate C Leader: Nancy Altmansberger, 719-471-9549 Trail Mileage 11, Elevation Gain 2900, Driving Distance 70. Details: We will hike from the Crags to Devil's Playground to be on top of the world! CMC members only. A limited number of well behaved, friendly dogs are welcome. Road mileage is 60 miles. The transportation expense per car is $18 which will be divided by the number of people in the car. Please bring cash so that you can pay your share for transportation. Please contact leader by phone only. Mystery 13er Saturday, 9/6/2014 Moderate B Leader: Christie Lee, 719-635-2336, [email protected] Details: We'll do a 13er in the Winfield/Twin Lakes area, possibly 14er if group is interested. Contact leader by September 1 for details. Rampart Reservoir Saturday, 9/6/2014 Easy C Leader: Paul Kozlowski, 719-684-9408, [email protected] Trail Mileage 13.5. Details: Let's take a trip on-trail around Rampart Reservoir during late-summer weather. At a moderate pace we can enjoy the water and views of Pikes Peak. Lots of photo opps. Register with leader. The Crags Loop Friday, 9/12/2014 Moderate A Leader: Nancy Altmansberger, 719-471-9549 Trail Mileage 5, Elevation Gain 800, Driving Distance 60. Details: This trail is just south of Divide. We will hike through the Amphitheatre and then climb to the top of The Crags to eat a snack or lunch with views of the Catamount Reservoirs. We will return to our cars an alternate way to make a loop. There is a bit of scrambling near the top. The transportation expense per car is $18 which will be divided by the number of people in the car. Please bring cash so that you can pay your share for transportation. CMC members only. A limited number of well behaved, friendly dogs are welcome. Please contact leader by phone only. Mountain Bike Arkansas River Saturday, 9/13/2014 Moderate Leader: Eric Hunter, 719-273-1018, [email protected] Trail Mileage 22, Elevation Gain 300, Driving Distance 250. Details: This is the first of three field trips for those completing the two Pikes Peak Group classroom sessions only. This is a great moderate ride along the historic trail from Wellsville to Coaldale on the north shore of the Arkansas River. There are interpretive signs along the ride to further immerse yourself in this historic route. Further details will be provided in the class. West Partner Peak (13,041 ft) Saturday, 9/13/2014 Rock Climbing Leader: Denise Snow, 719-687-9576, [email protected] Trail Mileage 10, Elevation Gain 4600. Location: Plan to meet at the Booth Creek TH. From Exit 180 on I-70 (East Vail Exit), head west on the frontage road for 0.9 miles to Booth Creek road. Turn right. The Booth Creek TH is 0.2 miles up this road. Details: This is a climb of the South Ridge of West Partner Peak. We will follow the Booth Creek Trail in the Gore for 3.5 miles out and back, passing Booth Creek Falls on the way. Then we'll make a three-mile loop up to and back from the peak, going off trail combined with some scrambling and enjoying solid 3rd class rock to the summit. The leader has not done this trip so be prepared for a little adventure. Helmets will be required. I will be out of country from 8 Aug until 7 Sept, so don't try to contact me during this time. Mark Silas is my co-leader and you can reach him at 719-748-5223 or [email protected]. Ice Cave - Palmer Reservoir Lop 'n' Chop Saturday, 9/13/2014 Moderate Leader: Thomas Mowle, 719-216-3932, [email protected] Trail Mileage 4.5, Elevation Gain 1200. Location: Palmer Lake. Details: Ice Cave Creek Project, September 13. Trail work/day hike. Open to the public. Bring loppers and/or hand saw; work gloves. We will hike the loop using the new Ice Cave Creek trail to the southern overlooks of Dome Rock, then return via Upper Palmer Reservoir. While hiking, we will be clearing deadfall from the trail and trimming vegetation that is encroaching on the trail corridor. This will be great service work, and a chance to see what our trail work has given us better access to. This project is sponsored by the Wildlands Project of the Colorado Mountain Club.

To register for classes or trips, go to www.cmc.org

6 September PPG Trips (continued)

Mountain Bike Buena Vista Saturday, 9/20/2014 Moderate Leader: Eric Hunter, 719-273-1018, [email protected] Trail Mileage 12, Elevation Gain 730, Driving Distance 250. Details: This is the second Pikes Pique of three field trips for those completing the two Pikes Peak Group classroom sessions September 2014 | No. 205 only. We will bike the historic Midland Railroad Grade on this Rails to Trails route from Highway 24 to Buena Vista and back. Excellent views of the and many Pikes Pique is the monthly newsletter of the Pikes Peak Group of the historic artifacts await you on this trail. Further details will be provided in the class. Colorado Mountain Club. It is a forum Mt. Esther Friday, 9/26/2014 Moderate B for enhancing skills for backcountry Leader: Nancy Altmansberger, 719-471-9549 travel in the Colorado mountains and Trail Mileage 6, Elevation Gain 1600. Details: From Chipita Park we will hike to the top communicating information, news, and upcoming events to members and of Mt. Esther for gorgeous views of the north side of Pikes Peak. We have to start early interested parties. because parking is limited. I drive an SUV. We may need one more SUV. CMC members only. A limited number of well behaved, friendly dogs are welcome. Please contact The purpose of the CMC is to unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the leader by phone only. Notes: Registrations for this hike are not automatic or students and lovers of the mountains presumed. Leader will determine registrations depending on your qualifications. of Colorado; to collect and disseminate Mountain Bike Picketwire Canyon Saturday, 9/27/2014 Moderate information regarding the Rocky Leader: Eric Hunter, 719-273-1018, [email protected] Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, recreation; to stimulate Trail Mileage 18, Elevation Gain 350. Details: This is the third of three field trips for public interest in our mountain areas; those completing the two Pikes Peak Group classroom sessions only. We will bike from to encourage the preservation of flora, the Withers Canyon Trailhead into Picketwire Canyon. We will pass a Spanish Mission fauna, and natural scenery; and to and Cemetery, a very large set of dinosaur tracks, and stop at the historic Rourke render readily accessible the alpine Ranch. There are also Paleo Indian rock art sites along the way. This is an incredible attractions of this region. canyon to explore that needs a bike to get to all of it in one day. Further details will be PIKES PEAK GROUP CONTACT INFORMATION: provided in the class. CMC Pikes Peak Group Hike Ute Park and RRCOS Sunday, 9/28/2014 Moderate C P.O. Box 2435 Leader: Eric Hunter, 719-273-1018, [email protected] Colorado Springs, CO 80901 Trail Mileage 8, Elevation Gain 750. Details: This is the local field trip for those [email protected] completing the Pikes Peak Group Intro to Desert Trekking and Canyoneering cmc.org/About/CMCGroups classroom session only. Further details will be provided in the class. CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Members:  Text: $2 per line, $10 minimum  Ads: ¼-page - $25, ½-page - $50 Non-members:  Text: $3 per line, $15 minimum  Ads: ¼-page - $30, ½-page - $60

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! Have a fun story or trip you want to share? Please submit your articles, along with pictures, to be considered for publication in the next Pikes Pique newsletter. Please send to: David Anderson, editor [email protected] The deadline for submissions is the 14th of each month. Use the above contact information for corrections and comments as well.

Pikes Peak from Devil’s Playground -David, Nancy, Gretchen, Pip, and Jim (Photo courtesy Nancy Altmansberger)

7