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September 16Th – Pikes Peak Group Program

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September 16Th – Pikes Peak Group Program September 2014 | No. 205 September 16th – Pikes Peak Group Program Phil Wortman Presents: Climbing Fast and Light Phil Wortman will be giving the September presentation on Phil will be presenting on the many facets that make light and Climbing Fast and Light. Phil originally moved to Colorado fast climbing safe and successful. He will also discuss what Springs from an Army assignment and started rock climbing in happens when things do not go according to plan. Phil’s light 1999. He added ice climbing to his repertoire in 2004 and and fast experiences range from the Longs Peak Triathlon, shortly thereafter also started climbing mixed climbs. CMC which includes biking from Boulder to the Longs Peak members may have also seen Phil working the aisles at the Trailhead, a run to the base of the Kieners route, a climb up Mountain Chalet in downtown Colorado Springs. In the the 5.5 Kieners route, and then back down to Boulder. In Summer of 2008, Phil started working for Pikes Peak Alpine 2012, Phil and Pete Lardy did a one day climb of Liberty Ridge, School and also completed the AMGA Rock Guide Course. which includes crossing two glaciers and an 11,000+ foot ascent and another 11,000+ descent in a single day over semi- technical terrain. This year saw Phil and his “Ninja Alpinism” capture a prized ascent of the Moonflower Buttress, which includes thirty pitches on Mt. Hunter, Alaska. Even more amazing, his team flew out of the Springs on a Wednesday after work and returned by Tuesday morning, not bad for thirty pitches of hard technical climbing in Alaska. Lastly, Phil does all this while working full time as a District 11 teacher at Palmer High School and a husband to his wife Jini. Please join us at 7:30 p.m. at All Souls Unitarian Church, 730 th N. Tejon St., on September 16 and learn techniques to increase your speed and endurance in the mountains. 1 Conservation Corner Your PPG Council Ice Cave Creek Trail Project Complete! Chair – Rick Keetch (Interim) 719-634-1165, [email protected] Eight work days, 250+ Past Chair – Rick Keetch volunteer days, and 3000' 719-634-1165, [email protected] of new trail is complete! Thank you to everyone BMS Director – Collin Powers who helped work on the 719-685-2470, [email protected] new Ice Cave Creek Trail Conservation – Tom Mowle over the past year. There 719-216-3932, [email protected] are now better hiking and Education & Training – Eric Hunter biking options out of 719-266-9647, [email protected] Palmer Lake, including access to the rock domes Equipment Manager – Tom Mulcahy 719-482-8821, [email protected] further up Ice Cave Creek, loop options between the Membership – Tony Eichstadt Reservoirs, and longer 740-601-3611, [email protected] trips to the cliffs, the Newsletter – Dave Anderson plane crash, or the full 13- 719-484-9069, [email protected] mile loop! Some of this Outings –Chris Mattingly will be included in the 719-268-6774, [email protected] next edition of CMC's Best Hikes – Colorado Springs. Programs – Roger Kilcoyne Larger maps that include 719-323-3740, [email protected] this area are The Pikes Public Relations – Neil Butterfield Making progress on Section 30 Peak Atlas and Pocket 337-258-2365, [email protected] Pals Maps 13 and 14. You Assisting – Christie Lee can download very large 719-635-2336, [email protected] scale maps at Rocky Safety & Leadership – Paul Schoell Mountain Wild. 719-440-7777, [email protected] On September 13th we SESI – Christie Lee will hike one of those 719-635-2336, [email protected] loops, and as we go clear Sergeant at Arms – Heather Ditmore away fallen logs and trim 719-217-7417, [email protected] vegetation encroaching Treasurer – Jackie Crouch on the trail. Sign up here 719-231-3513, [email protected] for the Ice Cave Lop & Chop. At Large: Mike Erickson 719-482-5062, [email protected] Doug Hatfield 719-200-9488, [email protected] Greg Long 719-659-0345, [email protected] Mary Mourar 719-633-2614, [email protected] Interested in serving on the Pikes Peak Group Day 8 group photo Council? Please contact the Chair. 2 Member Contribution Climbing the Matterhorn By Stephen Nypaver III Long ago, when I was young, I stood at a hotel window In We were a little old to climb Switzerland’s Matterhorn, but Zermatt, gazing out on the Matterhorn. I was drinking my first we were fairly sure that we could climb Colorado’s glass of gluhwein, and hoped to have two to three days of Matterhorn. good skiing. A snow plume came off the top of the We stopped for a delicious lunch (I ate my favorite, enchiladas Matterhorn, and I remembered reading accounts of climbs of de mole poblano), at La Paraiso, a Mexican restaurant in the North Face of the Matterhorn. Looking at the mountain, I Gunnison. After an enjoyable walk around the square in Lake thought I could climb it too, but not its North Face. City, we drove west on County Road 20, a dirt road, to a junction with a four wheel drive road, Number 870. After two more miles, we turned onto a steep four wheel drive spur, Number 870.2A. Ned worried a bit, because he had never been on a road quite as rough. We soon arrived at the Matterhorn Creek Trailhead, at about 10,700 feet, and chose the remaining campsite to set up our tents. We planned to start our ascent at 6:30 a.m. At 5:30 a.m. it was cold—about 35 degrees. We heated some water for cider, tea, coffee, and oatmeal, and started our ascent at 6:35 a.m. with just about frozen hands. As we hiked north on Trail 233, we saw Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 feet) to the north. Matterhorn Peak was between two 14ers, Wetterhorn Peak to the west and Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 feet) to the east. Two other climbers quickly overtook us. They were two young Sherpas who planned to climb Wetterhorn Peak. I had never met Sherpas on a climb in the Starting up the rock pile of Matterhorn Peak’s summit pyramid Rockies. The following year, a friend and I drove to Cervinia, in Italy, to We continued for a few miles on Trail 233, until it started to ski on the south side of the Matterhorn. The Italians call it descend into a valley to the west of Uncompahgre Peak. On Mount Cervino. We learned that you could ski from the Italian our left, a wooden trail sign indicated “Matterhorn Trail” and side to the Swiss side, but the wind and snow prevented us pointed toward the summit of Matterhorn Peak. We would from skiing over the lower slopes to Switzerland that day. go northwest up the grassy southeast slope of Matterhorn Since my U.S. Army sponsored “Grand Tour” of Europe came Peak. But the Matterhorn trail quickly faded away. So now we to an end, I was not able to fulfill my dream of climbing the started to zigzag up, and snowfields kept us hemmed in from Matterhorn. But now, after retiring, I thought of it again. I the east. Soon we were in midst of vast expanses of mountain thought that it would be great and a good conversation wild flowers. One predominant flower was “Old Man of the starter to talk about climbing the Matterhorn. My regular Mountains,” a short yellow sunflower. So, here we were, two climbing partner, Gordon Denison, regrettably declined my old men making their way up through a sea of Old Man of the invitation to go on the climb. But my neighbor, Ned Shade, Mountains. Out of respect and good mountaineering ethics, eagerly said that he would go. Even at 82, Ned was in great we tried not to step on any of the Old Men. shape, and really wanted to get up into the mountains again. At around 13,000, rocks took over from grass and wildflowers. Ned and I began to plan our adventure, looking over maps and Soon we came to a talus field, and stopped by a large rock routes and choosing a time when we hoped the weather with a small cairn on top. We gazed on the summit pyramid, would be good. During our final meeting, as we watched one and it scared us. It was a pile of steep, loose rock, with some of the World Cup football games, we finalized our plans. solid vertical rock ribs. A route description stated that a On Thursday, July 17, Ned and I were ready. The weather traverse across would lead to another approach to minimize forecast predicted good weather, sunny and in the 60s, the steepness of the climb to the top. But a very long, sharply maybe low 70s, but perhaps a little cold at our selected camp. sloped snowfield blocked the way. Ned said that he would not We decided to share driving to Lake City, Colorado. That’s go any further, and I just about thought that it was too right, Lake City. We would climb Colorado’s Matterhorn Peak dangerous for me. It was frightening to look up to see what at 13,590 feet, about twelve miles to the west of Lake City. had to be climbed to get to the top. (continued on next page) 3 Member Contribution (continued) In twenty minutes, I stood at the top. I was thrilled, but my knees shook a bit as I stood on some wobbly rock.
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