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Rowers' Guide to the Thames 1 Thames Tour What to See When

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Rowers' Guide to the Thames 1 Thames Tour What to See When Thames Tour What to see when rowing the Thames Christopher Dodd This guide was written for an International Rowing Federation (FISA) seven-day rowing tour of the Thames in 2003, starting in Godstow near Oxford and progressing downstream to Putney in London. It uses the terms ‘port’ and ‘starboard’ to describe the location of sights. As seen from the cox’s seat, ‘port’ (stroke side) is to the left of boat, ‘starboard’ (bow side) is to the right - in the direction in which the boat and the stream are moving. The River Thames, also called the Isis in the Oxford area, is important for several reasons. For centuries it was a great trading route, connecting the Thames Valley and, through the canal system, the west and midlands of England with the great port of London. It is a great source of drinking water for London, and as railways shut down transport by water, they opened the Thames Valley to Londoners for enjoyment and recreation. The modern sport of rowing was born on the Thames, and it remains a world centre. The guide was updated in 2013. Please contribute comments and corrections HERE. © Christopher Dodd Seven days from Oxford to London DAY 1 – Godstow to Clifton Hampden (27 km, 6 locks) DAY 2 - Clifton Hampden to Pangbourne (29 km, 4 locks) DAY 3 - Pangbourne to Henley (24 km, 6 locks) DAY 4 - Henley to Maidenhead (25 km, 6 locks) DAY 5 - Maidenhead to Staines (24 km, 5 locks) DAY 6 - Staines to Teddington (28 km, 6 locks) DAY 7 - Teddington to Putney (15 km) Rowers’ guide to the Thames 1 DAY 1 – Godstow to Clifton Hampden, 27 km, 6 locks The tour starts at St Edward’s school boathouse, close to Godstow lock beside the remains of Godstow Abbey. St Edward’s is a prominent rowing school. Port Meadow on your port side gives wonderful views of Oxford - ‘Oxford, more beautiful than dreams,’ wrote Arthur Quiller Couch, nineteenth century author known as ‘Q’, who was a professor of literature and a rower. It was here, on a picnic by boat from Oxford that the author Lewis Carroll dreamed up the plot of Alice in Wonderland, his classic children’s fantasy written for Alice Liddell, daughter of Dean Liddell of Christ Church. Lock 1 – Osney Osney lock is the gateway to a cruise through Oxford to Folly bridge, home of Salters who operate hire boats and steamers and used to build racing boats. Below the bridge on the port side is Christ Church Meadow, where college barges used to line the bank where boathouses now stand. ‘Bumping’ races are held twice a year on this water, originated by boats racing each other home from Iffley lock. Boats are attached to the bank and started simultaneously by a gun. If a boat bumps the one in front, it moves up a place in the starting order in next day’s race. The leading boat at the end of the week is Head of the River. Oxford University Boat Club was founded in 1839, ten years after the first Boat Race against Cambridge. The burnt-out remains of its Victorian boathouse could still be seen in 2003 on the starboard side. At the end of the boathouses to port, the river Cherwell joins the Isis, a tributary popular for punts. Before reaching Iffley lock you will pass City of Oxford Rowing Club (port) and Falcon Rowing Club. George Harris the boatbuilders used to be here (starboard). Lock 2 – Iffley Iffley lock was built in 1632 and rebuilt in 1923. The village tucked away on the port side has one of the best Norman churches in England. Rose Isle marks the half way point to the next lock. Lock 3 - Sandford 1.5 km below Sandford lock you pass Radley boathouses on the starboard side. Radley College opened in 1847 and is a prominent rowing school. The next landmark on the port side is Nuneham House, a Paladian mansion set in a park by Viscount Harcourt, Lord High Chancellor in 1710. Here Queen Victoria spent her honeymoon. Close by is Carfax Tower, a folly moved here from Oxford in the 1780s, where it had served as a water tower. Radley’s old boathouse is on the starboard side. It is hereabouts that the author Lewis Carroll, whose real name was the Rev Charles Lutwidge Dodgson, fashioned another of his children’s tales, Alice Through the Looking Glass. Passing Lockwood Island and woods on the port side, you pass under a footbridge, followed by Nuneham railway bridge before reaching the next lock. Rowers’ guide to the Thames 2 Lock 4 - Abingdon Abingdon is the site of an ancient abbey which was 5 km in circumference and flourished until the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII in 1538. The county hall is now a museum. Abingdon bridge crosses Nag’s Head Island as well as the Thames. Abingdon School is another independent school prominent in rowing. On the port side is Aldersey Island, bounded by the Swift Ditch Backwater, which bypasses the Abingdon bend. Once past the town, the river turns towards port and set back from it is Culham Manor, a cluster of manor house and cottages, church and pub. You will row past Sutton Pools to Culham lock and Sutton bridge. Lock 5 - Culham Sutton Courtenay, away from the river to starboard, is an idyllic medieval village on the Sutton Pools backwater. It has a Norman church tower with a one-handed clock. The row continues through a railway bridge and along a reach to Clifton lock, with Long Wittenham to starboard. Lock 6 – Clifton Passing through the lock, you arrive at Clifton Hampden, a ‘chocolate box’ village dating from the 1500s-1600s. George Gilbert Scott, architect of the Houses of Parliament, designed the bridge. Just before the bridge to starboard is the Barley Mow Inn, where the day ends. It was made famous in Jerome K Jerome’s account of a camping trip on the river, Three Men in a Boat. It was restored after a fire in 1975. Rowers’ guide to the Thames 3 DAY 2 - Clifton Hampden to Pangbourne (29 km, 4 locks) Leaving Clifton Hampden, you pass Burcot House and the village of Burcot on the port side. After 4 km is the first lock of the day. Lock 1 – Day’s Robert Gibbings, author of Sweet Thames Run Softly, lived at Little Wittenham. ‘Every mile of water has its own character, every bridge too, every village, and every farm whose meadows are enriched by the silt of winter floods,’ he wrote. To starboard, the distinctive hills known as the Wittenham clumps can be seen. On the port side, the village of Dorchester which is along a hidden backwater off the main river, was the capital of Wessex until 1092. It has a superb abbey church which reflects its former importance. The river continues through Shillingford bridge with a hotel nestling beneath a steep wooded hillside Lock 2 – Benson Benson lock marks the start of the longest stretch of the upper Thames between locks. Soon the spire of St Peter’s church will tell you that are approaching Wallingford. About a mile before the town, you will pass the house where Agatha Christie wrote the adventures of the fictional detective Hercule Poirot. The village of Benson, away from the river on the port side, has an RAF station which was a bomber and air recognisance base during the second world war. After the war RAF Benson became famous in rowing. Many prominent oarsmen were directed to the station for their military service, and crews from the base won two trophies at Henley Royal Regatta in 1953. They returned 50 years later, with every man present to row over the course. The RAF rowed from Wallingford and in the early 1950s set up joint premises with the new local club, which is now Wallingford RC, just below the bridge to starboard. Wallingford bridge has 17 arches and dates from the1200s. The town hall is Jacobean, and Wallingford was the last royalist stronghold to surrender to the Parliamentarians in the English Civil War during the 1600s, after a 16-week siege. Below Wallingford you will pass the present boathouses of Oxford University Boat Club and its local rival Oxford Brookes University, both prominent in supplying recruits to GB’s under-23 and senior national teams. After a road bridge is an office development on the port side that used to be Carmel College, another school with a rowing background. You come next to the hamlets of North Stoke (to port) and Moulsford (starboard), the latter marked by the Beetle and Wedge, an excellent pub and restaurant. To port a little further is the Leatherne Bottle, also a well-known restaurant. After that you will reach Rowers’ guide to the Thames 4 Lock 3 - Cleeve After Cleeve lock you will come to Goring and Streatley, facing each other across the river, joined by a bridge immediately before the lock. Goring (to port) is Edwardian and has a mill and a lock. Sir Arthur ‘Bomber’ Harris, head of the RAF during the 1939-45 war and known for his controversial blanket bombing policy that flattened the Ruhr, Dresden and Berlin, lived here. Streatley (to starboard) has an old college barge moored outside the hotel by the bridge. Lock 4 - Goring You now pass through the Goring Gap, an Ice Age channel carved through chalk hills by the Thames, with its beeches, maples and chestnuts. You will pass the Grott, a house embellished with shells, to starboard before passing under one of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s railway bridges.
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