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Colombia Highlights Trip Report 1St to 15Th December 2014 (15 Days)

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Colombia Highlights Trip Report 1St to 15Th December 2014 (15 Days) RBT Colombia: Highlights Trip Report - 2014 1 Colombia Highlights Trip Report 1st to 15th December 2014 (15 days) Rufous-fronted Parakeet by Clayton Burne Trip report compiled by tour leader: Clayton Burne RBT Colombia: Highlights Trip Report - 2014 2 Our Highlights tour of Colombia kicked off with a welcome dinner in the heart of Bogota's gastronomic neighbourhood. An excellent meal was had near our hotel before getting our heads down for an early start the following morning. Leaving Bogota before the traffic managed to congest properly, we found ourselves at Laguna Pedro Palo a little after dawn, the skies unusually clear. Situated some 1000m lower than Bogota on the western slope of the Eastern Cordillera, Laguna Pedro Palo proved to be a good introduction to many of the Neotropical species we expected to see over the coming two weeks. Birding activity began a little slowly, but soon enough the odd flock had us up and running. A pair of Smoky-brown Woodpecker was followed in quick succession by Montane Foliage-gleaner, Montane Woodcreeper and an Ash-browed Spinetail. Small mixed flocks contained a number of commoner tanagers including Saffron-crowned, Bay-headed, Crimson-backed, Scrub, Blue-necked, Beryl-spangled, Black-capped and Flame-faced. Much effort was put into finding the difficult Stripe-breasted Spinetail, but only a few managed to get Red-headed Barbet by Clayton Burne half decent views. New birds came in dribs and drabs after that; a solitary Swallow-tailed Kite and a Pale-breasted Hawk were followed by good views of Moustached Brush Finch and not so good views of a Black Inca moving as quickly as a bullet up the road. A stunning male Canada Warbler and a retiring Black-and-white Warbler brightened everyone's morning up. Marble-faced Bristle Tyrant posed for photos while a Rufous-naped Greenlet made life tough initially. Having had our fill of birds for the morning, we descended to a nearby restaurant for lunch. Many of the usual tanagers fed in the car park fruit feeder, before we set about calling in the resident Bar-crested Antshrike. Driving back up a multitude of cutbacks towards Bogota, we headed for the cloud forest habitats of Parque Natural Chicaque. Our first stop was made at the hummingbird feeders around the local restaurant – which were empty! The feeders were quickly replenished with sugary water and the hummers made an almost immediate return. Standing no more than a few yards from the feeders, we had an excellent half hour that included eight hummer species: Green and Sparking Violetears, Buff-tailed Coronet, Collared Inca, Golden-bellied Starfrontlet, Tourmaline Sunangel and Glowing Puffleg. Birding the road verge in the afternoon was a much slower affair, but we did add some quality species including a very responsive Rufous Spinetail, an exposed Grey-breasted Wood Wren, a small flock of Superciliaried Hemispingus and a vocal Blackish Tapaculo. Another early start saw us heading towards Parque Nacional Natural Chingaza, located on the eastern slopes of the Eastern Cordillera. We made a short stop for breakfast in La Calera before continuing to the higher slopes. Flocks were active throughout much of the morning allowing us excellent sightings of the endemic Silvery- throated Spinetail and Pale-bellied Tapaculo, Red-crested Cotinga, Black-crested Warbler, Northern Mountain Cacique and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager. Three Golden-bellied Starfrontlet species of Flowerpiercer were recorded during the day by Clayton Burne RBT Colombia: Highlights Trip Report - 2014 3 including Black, Bluish and Masked, while both Pale-naped and Slaty Brush Finches were rather common. The endemic Rufous-browed Conebill showed awfully well before we headed even higher. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle soared over us while Tyrian Metaltail was common in the roadside flowers. The rare Bronze-tailed Thornbill sat on an exposed bush preening, while White- chinned Thistletail sat still for so long that we all managed a few scope views of it. Lunch was taken at a roadside parilla of immense proportions, meat of every cut cooked to perfection. Post lunch we headed rather heavily over to the Siecha Marshes for another of the major trip targets, the endemic Bogota Rail. Birding started with a flurry of new species including Blue-winged Teal, Andean Teal (of the Merida Speckled Teal sub-species), Andean Duck and Pied-billed Grebe. Bogota Rail was incredibly easy, providing us with scoped views even, but Wilson's Snipe only showed in flight. Sora showed for a few, while some deep wading was required to find a hidden Noble Snipe. With almost all the target species sorted, we headed down the road in search of one more – Spot- flanked Gallinule. With the target well acquired in the fading light, it was back to the hotel for Male White-bellied Woodstar by Clayton Burne another excellent dinner. From Bogota, we descended the western slope of the Eastern Cordillera to the small village of San Francisco – at least in theory. Our vehicle's internal computer instead decided to go terminal at the motorway off-ramp. It took a matter of minutes to realise we were going nowhere fast, so we grabbed two taxis to take us the few kilometres downhill. [Of note were the monster stiletto heels of our taxi driving ladies!]. The aptly named Jardin Encantado (Enchanted Garden) has over 30 feeders located an arm’s length away from us that literally buzzed with activity. The usual suspects were present, including the endemic Indigo-capped Hummingbird, Black-throated Mango, White- vented Plumeleteer, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Andean Emerald and Sparkling Violetear. Brown Violetear made the odd appearance along with male and female White-bellied and Gorgeted Woodstars. With a replacement vehicle some hours away, we left the gardens and took a stroll down the road picking up Red-faced Spinetail, Band-backed Wren and an incredibly exposed Speckle-breasted Wren. Better views were obtained of Scrub and Plain-colored Tanagers. We spent a little longer at the feeders before our replacement vehicle arrived to take us for an early lunch. Having lost a number of hours, we were certainly going to be arriving at Rio Claro after dark. We headed to Laguna Tabacal to try our luck in the early afternoon heat. Rosy Thrush- Tanager was only heard (not atypical unfortunately), while we managed views of Plain Antvireo, Checker-throated Antwren, Golden-crowned and Grey-throated Warblers, as well as much better views of Stripe-breasted Spinetail. Orange-billed Sparrow obliged for some, while we all got decent views of the diminutive Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher. There was enough time to enjoy a cold drink before embarking on the very long and slow Scrub Tanager by Clayton Burne RBT Colombia: Highlights Trip Report - 2014 4 drive to Rio Claro. Dinner took place at a roadside restaurant before we arrived at Rio Claro somewhere after 21:00. We arose at the relatively late hour of 05:45 to bird our way around the Rio Claro canyon. The slight clearing around our accommodation provided the first highlight of the day in the form of the near endemic Saffron-headed Parrot. Birds arrived thick and fast after that: Tawny-bellied Hermit on a nest, Barred Puffbird exposed on a bare branch, a pair of Chestnut-backed Antbird and a glorious Cinnamon Woodpecker. Citron-throated Toucans were scoped at distance while a flock of Collared Aracari proved to be far more user friendly. Red-rumped Woodpeckers knocked around some dead stumps, Long-tailed Tyrant hawked from an exposed perch and a pile of Ovenbirds showed after some effort Oilbird by Adam Riley with Plain Xenops, and Wedge-billed and Streak-headed Woodcreepers completing the morning set. Plumbeous Pigeon distracted us for a second before Yellow-rumped Cacique and Chestnut- headed Oropendola gave us 'warbler neck'. A quick lunch was followed by a target-driven walk up-river to look for the endemic Magdalena Antbird. Incredibly, we were successful almost immediately! A single adult was coaxed onto an exposed branch before it further sidled up to within a few feet of us. With time to spare, it was back to the flatter road section of the reserve to add Pale-bellied Hermit, both Pacific and Slaty Antwrens, Cinnamon and One-colored Becards, Bay and Black-bellied Wrens, a female Fulvous- vented Euphonia, Rufous-capped Warbler and pile of new Tanagers including Tawny-crested, Swallow, White-shouldered and Golden-hooded. A Crimson-crested Woodpecker created some ID confusion, but a male Green Honeycreeper was always going to be a safe call! One of the group managed stunning photos of Bicolored Antbird while we were birding further up the road. The afternoon birding began almost immediately after lunch (no rest for the hardened birder!), with a short drive to Gruta del Condor. Walking through open farmland, we birded intermittently adding a female White-tailed Trogon, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Russet-winged Schiffornis, White-thighed Swallow and a Rufous Motmot. Completing the boulder-strewn riverbed walk to a large cave, we were received with the loud shrieks of many Oilbirds all around us. A good 20 minutes was spent enjoying these massive nocturnal frugivores before heading back to the vehicle in the fading afternoon light. There was still time to try for one more Mega species – the endemic Beautiful Woodpecker. Hearing a calling bird was one thing, finding its perch was quite another. Frantically searching obvious woodpecker branches on a high bank, we eventually found a co-operative individual. Seeing the bird from distance was satisfying enough, having it descend the ridge to the only Cecropia tree right next to us was quite another. One of the toughest Colombian Northern Screamer by Clayton Burne Endemics of the tour was in the bag in some style.
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