Las Vegas 2004
by Mary Herczog
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“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers About the Author Mary Herczog lives in Los Angeles and works in the film industry. She is the author of Frommer’s New Orleans, California For Dummies, Frommer’s Portable Las Vegas for Non-Gamblers, and Las Vegas For Dummies, and has contributed to Frommer’s Los Angeles. She still isn’t sure when to hit and when to hold in blackjack. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or trans- mitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, record- ing, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8700. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd. Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317) 572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-3888-8 ISSN 1532-0006 Editor: Naomi P. Kraus Production Editor: Heather Wilcox Cartographer: Nicholas Trotter Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Las Vegas 1
1 The Best of Las Vegas 4 1 Frommer’s Favorite Las Vegas 2 Best Hotel Bets ...... 8 Experiences ...... 6 3 Best Dining Bets ...... 12 A Look Back at Vegas: No Winning Websites ...... 14 Tomorrow ...... 8
2 Planning Your Trip to Las Vegas 16 1 Visitor Information ...... 16 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Money ...... 16 Travel Resource ...... 28 Las Vegas Advisor ...... 17 8 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .29 3 When to Go ...... 18 9 Getting There ...... 30 Las Vegas Calendar of Events . . .19 Flying with Film & Video ...... 32 New Year’s Eve in Las Vegas . . . .20 10 Packages for the Independent Traveler ...... 34 4 Travel Insurance ...... 21 11 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .35 5 Health & Safety ...... 22 Major Convention Dates 6 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .23 for 2004 ...... 36 7 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .27 12 Recommended Reading ...... 37
3 For International Visitors 38 1 Preparing for Your Trip ...... 38 Fast Facts: For the 2 Getting to the United States . . .45 International Traveler ...... 47 3 Getting Around the United States ...... 46
4 Getting to Know Las Vegas 53
1 Orientation ...... 53 Did You Know? ...... 61 2 Getting Around ...... 56 Fast Facts: Las Vegas ...... 62 Chopper Tom’s Traffic Tips . . . .58 iv CONTENTS
5 Where to Stay 67 1 Coming Attractions ...... 67 So Your Trip Goes 2 Three Questions to Ask Before Swimmingly...... 95 You Book a Room ...... 69 5 North Strip ...... 100 Reservations Services ...... 69 6 East of the Strip ...... 105 3 South Strip ...... 73 Cheap Hotel Alternatives . . . .113 Family-Friendly Hotels ...... 81 7 Downtown ...... 114 4 Mid-Strip ...... 85 8 Henderson ...... 119 Staying off the Strip ...... 88
6 Where to Dine 122 1 Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 124 5 East of the Strip ...... 150 2 South Strip ...... 127 6 West Las Vegas ...... 157 You Gotta Have a Theme . . . .130 Sweet Sensations ...... 162 3 Mid-Strip ...... 135 7 Downtown ...... 163 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .144 8 Buffets & Sunday Brunches . . .166 4 North Strip ...... 147
7 What to See & Do in Las Vegas 173 Suggested Itineraries ...... 173 4 Especially for Kids ...... 192 Sin City Inverted ...... 174 Going Vegas ...... 194 1 The Top Attractions ...... 175 5 Organized Tours ...... 197 Siegfried & Roy’s House . . . . .185 Mayor Oscar B. Goodman’s 2 Getting Married ...... 187 Top 10 Places to Recapture Old Las Vegas ...... 198 An Elvis Impersonator’s Top 10 Reasons to Get Married in 6 Fore! Great Desert Golf ...... 198 Las Vegas ...... 188 7 Staying Active ...... 200 3 Attractions in Nearby Desert Hiking Advice ...... 202 Henderson ...... 192 8 Spectator Sports ...... 203
8 About Casino Gambling 204 1 The Four Most Pervasive Myths Memories of a Longtime About Gambling ...... 205 Dealer ...... 222 2 The Games ...... 207 The World Series, Las Vegas– Players Clubs ...... 216 Style ...... 231 3 The Casinos ...... 219 CONTENTS v
9 Shopping 234 1 The Malls ...... 234 6 Reading Material: Used Books, 2 Factory Outlets ...... 235 Comics & Gambler Books . . . .240 3 Hotel Shopping Arcades . . . . .236 7 Candy ...... 241 4 Vintage Clothing ...... 239 8 Antiques ...... 241 5 Souvenirs ...... 240 9 Wigs ...... 242
10 Las Vegas After Dark 243
Lounge Lizard Supreme ...... 244 Wayne Newton’s Top 10 1 What’s Playing Where ...... 245 Favorite Lounge Songs ...... 258 2 The Major Production 4 Comedy Clubs ...... 260 Shows ...... 246 5 Coffeehouses ...... 260 Family-Friendly Shows ...... 249 6 Piano Bars ...... 261 12 Inaccuracies in the Movie 7 Gay Bars ...... 261 Showgirls ...... 252 8 Other Bars ...... 262 Penn & Teller’s Top 10 Things 9 Dance Clubs ...... 267 One Should NEVER Do in a 10 Strip Clubs ...... 271 Vegas Magic Show ...... 255 Afternoon Delight? ...... 257 Two Strippers Give Nine Strip- Bar Etiquette Tips ...... 273 3 Headliner Showrooms ...... 257
11 Side Trips from Las Vegas 276 1 Hoover Dam & Lake Mead . . . .276 4 Bonnie Springs Ranch/ 2 Valley of Fire State Park . . . . .283 Old Nevada ...... 288 3 Red Rock Canyon ...... 285 5 A Close Encounter with Area 51 ...... 291
Appendix: Las Vegas in Depth 294
1 A Look at the Past ...... 294
Index 298
General Index ...... 298 Restaurant Index ...... 305 Accommodations Index ...... 305 List of Maps
Las Vegas & Environs 5 Mid-Strip Dining 137 Las Vegas at a Glance 55 North Strip Dining 149 South Strip Dining & Nightlife East Accommodations 75 of the Strip 151 Mid-Strip Dining & Nightlife West Accommodations 87 of the Strip 159 North Strip Downtown Dining 165 Accommodations 101 Las Vegas Attractions 177 Accommodations East Henderson 193 of the Strip 107 Excursions from Las Vegas 277 Downtown Accommodations 115 Lake Mead & Vicinity 281 South Strip Dining 129 Area 51 292 Acknowledgments As always, working for Frommer’s and with Naomi Kraus is like hitting 21 a whole bunch of times in a row. Great thanks to Rick Garman for 14 lucky years. Thanks to designated drinkers Arlene and Caroline. Steve Hochman makes me a winner. —Mary Herczog The editorial staff at Frommer’s also wishes to thank the Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority, Brigitte Bélanger and Magdalena Vandenburg at Cirque du Soleil, and Alex Kraus for their assistance in making this book a winner. An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Las Vegas 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030
An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Portable Las Vegas Frommer’s Portable Las Vegas for Non-Gamblers Las Vegas For Dummies The Unofficial Guide to Las Vegas Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to Las Vegas Frommer’s California Frommer’s Utah Frommer’s Arizona Frommer’s U.S.A Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions What’s New in Las Vegas
Gee, what isn’t new in Las Vegas? dead and gone. Do not expect a That they want to take your money “family-friendly” place, not at these and will do so by any means necessary. prices. Vegas is returning to its adult Cynical? Hardly. That is, after all, why roots, with all that entails, so you this town was built and don’t, for a should think twice—and then some minute, think anything else. more—about dragging Junior along Otherwise, everything is new in Las with you to Sin City. Vegas. This town is afflicted with termi- Having said that, you might, with nal restlessness and must keep finding some planning, end up spending a lit- new ways of attracting visitors who can tle bit less this year than in the most then be relieved of their money. Heck, recent past. Vegas experienced a huge by the time we’ve finished writing this, loss in revenue after September 11, everything we’ve written, everything plus about a 50% drop in tourism, in the whole town, will be outdated, resulting in about 14,000 people changed, or somehow different. being laid off, the largest labor cuts Perhaps we exaggerate. But really, experienced by any one city in the only a little. Hotels are routinely reno- nation following the terrorist attacks. vating, upgrading, redecorating their With the economy in flux, continu- rooms, and changing their themes ing concerns about security during (because everyone knows that a Span- travel, and all sorts of world-shaking ish theme will bring in more tourist events occurring, tourism for Vegas is dollars than a Mardi Gras theme—that up and down and up and down, and is, until they decide it’s been long what you are going to face is unpre- enough with the Spanish theme and dictable. Conventions are still coming then switch to an Asian one), and that’s to town—not as huge, perhaps, as in only if they aren’t blowing up the hotel the past, but enough to make hotel and starting over from scratch. New bookings impossible during their stag- restaurants with celebrity chefs and big ing. The rest of the time, you might prices open, and longtime stalwarts well find a bargain. For cost-cutting with comfort food for the ages close. tips and other useful planning advice, Shows that have been touted with see chapter 2. enormous billboards and bigger bud- ACCOMMODATIONS You’d gets close in the blink of an eye. Please think that tourism dips would daunt remember this and think kindly of us if any plans for further expansion, but anything in this book is inaccurate. no, not our fearless Vegas hotel hon- Because that’s why. chos. We shake our heads as reports So, as we write this, what’s new? Or come in of still another giant Vegas even, what’s going to be new? hotel in the planning stages. “Don’t PLANNING YOUR TRIP The they have enough hotel rooms by now?” Disneyfication of Vegas is pretty much 2 WHAT’S NEW we wonder, “Don’t they ever have too of course, is that Vegas isn’t the same many?” Apparently not. without such fabulous monsters, You won’t be seeing anything apart though we are equally pleased with from cranes and construction sites talk of a boutique hotel, perhaps a W until late 2003, when the Weston Spa or something like it, going up next to Resort will open on the site of the for- the Frontier. (Which may happen mer, and not a bit missed, Maxim sooner than you think: There’s gossip Hotel. Mandalay Bay and Venetian that the Venetian is partnering with will both open large new expansions Brad Pitt and George Clooney to around that same time, with Bellagio build a boutique hotel on the Strip— following suit in 2004. You will have over a Walgreen’s drugstore, no less.) to wait until 2005 for a new hotel, but For complete details on the lodging it should be worth that wait because scene in Las Vegas, see chapter 5. it’s coming from Steve Wynn, the man DINING If you love sandwiches, responsible for modern-day theme- then let me put you on to Canter’s, intensive Vegas. Wynn Las Vegas the popular Los Angeles Jewish deli (originally named Le Reve, but the that just opened a branch at TI (for- new one fits so much better!), planned merly Treasure Island) at the Mirage. as really tall resort towers, complete Famous for their sourdough rye, piled with a man-made 150-foot-tall moun- high with pastrami, corned beef, or tain in front, will occupy the place of whatever, they’ve also got a lox plate, the demolished Desert Inn. soups including matzo ball and the Or you can watch with us as the “famous” barley bean, and New York relatively new Aladdin climbs out of cheesecake. For now Canter’s is in a its even newer bankruptcy with the temporary space in the casino race help of a new owner, Planet Holly- book, but a new 125-seat restaurant wood. Watch as the Middle East should be ready by the end of the year. theme is swiftly replaced by Holly- But don’t wait: Call me now and I’ll wood memorabilia, and that big globe join you for a nosh. of theirs goes up on the Strip. Or For more dining options in Las observe the changes to the Golden Vegas, see chapter 6. Nugget in Downtown now that it has been unloaded by MGM MIRAGE. ABOUT CASINO GAMBLING This is a town full of self-styled There is a big change quietly happening luxury resorts, but the only place with all over town—and actually, the key a real claim to such a title is a 30- word here is “quiet.” Like us, perhaps minute drive away. The brand-new you thrill to that distinct sound of coins Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas, is set dropping, clinkclinkclinkclinkclink, as right on the lake itself, with a dazzling you cash out on your slot (or poker) view of the water and mountains. machine. That sound will always be Add to that the kind of service that with us, but very soon it’s just going to made the company’s name famous— be a programmed audio track, because big rooms and lush baths, and a huge all the major casinos (and maybe all list of amenities and recreation activi- of them, period) are changing their ties—and we forget all about the siren machines over to a cashless system, lure of the Strip. wherein the payouts will come in the Of course, there remain the rumors form of printed slips you take to about still more Titan-sized theme exchange at the cages. Gambling will hotels, these paying neon-bedecked never be the same again. homage to San Francisco, London, For tips on maximizing your wins and water in general. The good news, and choosing a casino, see chapter 8. WHAT’S NEW 3
SHOPPING When Las Vegas Pre- As for real strip clubs, this past year mium Outlets Center opens, near saw the opening of first Jaguar’s, a Downtown, in fall 2003, we may be 25,000-square-foot extravaganza that spending so much money there that we is as marbled and over the top as Cae- won’t have any left over for gambling. sars Palace in its shameless days. But it (Just as well, perhaps.) Can you blame was quickly eclipsed by Sapphire’s, us? It will have 100 stores, including which clocks in at 71,000 square feet Armani Exchange, Coach, Dolce & and so is the largest strip joint in the Gabbana, Guess, Kenneth Cole, world. Lacoste, Polo/Ralph Lauren, St. John, But it’s not all about the nudity; and Theory. And it’s just what the it’s also about the big bucks. And otherwise moribund (if flashy looking) that brings us to the return of Celine shopping scene in Vegas needs. Dion to live performing, thanks to The Forum Shops in Caesars are a luxurious new venue built just for undergoing yet another huge expan- her at Caesars, where she performs sion; this one will have a three-story in a multimillion-dollar extravaganza, glass entrance right near the Strip. But accompanied by a giant LED screen, don’t get your credit cards too ready— special effects, and many, many it won’t be open until late 2004. Cirque-influenced performers and LAS VEGAS AFTER DARK It’s enigmatic imagery (thanks to the clear that everyone is open to putting director and producer, who was the “sin” back in Sin City, as more behind the local productions of O and adult-oriented shows make a come- Mystère). Thanks to her ticket prices back. It’s hard to tell the difference (starting at $88 and going up to these days between the strip bars and $150), the big shows all over town the hotel clubs and lounges, when new have raised their rates as well. happening hot spots such as Rain (in The long-delayed Neonopolis, a the Palm), Bikinis (in the Rio), and $100-million open-air restaurant, shop, Risque (in Paris Las Vegas), among and entertainment complex (with an others, have go-go dancers as scantily 11-screen movie theater), finally clad and performing the exact same opened right at the Fremont Street gyrations as the strippers. Other new Experience, where Fremont Street joints have names such as Tabu (in the meets Las Vegas Boulevard South. It MGM Grand). And Cirque du Soleil includes a serious entertainment area is opening a new show, Zumanity, that run by Jillian’s, a national company, that will offer glimpses (or more) of bare offers a great arcade, a huge bowling flesh and is strictly for the 18-and-over alley, and other fun offerings, making set. (Another, regular and nonracy this an alternative to traditional (but Cirque show is due at the MGM age-limited) Vegas entertainment and Grand by early 2004.) It’s just a mat- activities. Best of all, it’s open late and it ter of time before a hotel opens up its may provide a shot in the arm to the own “gentlemen’s club” (read: strip still struggling Downtown. bar), and when that happens, watch For the scoop on after-dark activi- the others follow with due haste. ties in Las Vegas, see chapter 10. 1 The Best of Las Vegas The point about [Las Vegas], which both its critics and its admirers overlook, is that it’s wonderful and awful simultaneously. So one loves it and detests it at the same time. —David Spanier, Welcome to the Pleasure Dome: Inside Las Vegas
As often as you might have seen it on TV or in a movie, there is nothing that prepares you for that first sight of Las Vegas. The skyline is hyper-reality, a mélange of the Statue of Liberty, a giant lion, a pyramid, and a Sphinx, and preternaturally glittering buildings. At night, it’s so bright you can actually get disoriented—and suffer from a sensory overload that can reduce you to hapless tears or fits of gig- gles. And that’s without setting foot inside a casino, where the shouts from the craps tables, the crash of coins from the slots, and the general roar combine into either the greatest adrenaline rush of your life or the 11th pit of hell. Las Vegas is a true original; there is nothing like it in America or arguably the world. In other cities, hotels are built near the major attractions. Here, the hotels are the major attractions. For that matter, what other city has a skyline made up almost entirely of buildings from other cities’ skylines? Instead of historical codes to follow, builders in Vegas have to worry about the height of the roller coaster in their hotel. Once you get to Vegas, you’ll want to come back again, if only to make sure you didn’t dream it all. It’s not just the casinos with their nonstop action and sound, the almost-blinding lights, or the buildings that seek to replicate some other reality (Paris, Venice, New York, and ancient Egypt). It’s not the moun- tains of shrimp at the buffets, the wedding chapels that will gladly unite two total strangers in holy wedlock, or the promise of free money. It’s the whole package. It’s the Megabucks slots. It’s Frank and Dino and Sammy. It’s Elvis— the Fat Years. It’s volcanoes and white tigers and cocktail waitresses dressed in Roman togas. It’s cheesy and sleazy and artificial and wholly, completely unique. It’s wonderful. It’s awful. It’s wonderfully awful and awfully wonderful. Love it, loathe it, or both, no one has ambivalent feelings about Vegas. Las Vegas can be whatever a visitor wants, and for a few days, a visitor can be whatever he or she wants. Just be prepared to leave all touchstones with reality behind. Here, you will rise at noon and gorge on endless amounts of rich food at 3am. You will watch your money grow or (more likely) shrink. You will watch a volcano explode and pirates fight sexy showgirls. And after a while, it will all seem pretty normal. This is not a cultural vacation, okay? Save the thoughts of museums and historical sights for the real New York, Egypt, Paris, and Venice. Vegas is about fun. Go have some. Go have too much. It won’t be hard. The Vegas of the Rat Pack years, classic Old Las Vegas, does not exist anymore. Even as ancient civilizations are replicated, “old” in Vegas terms is anything over a decade. Indeed, thanks to teardowns and renovations, there is virtually nothing original left on the Strip. In a way, that is both admirable and ghastly, and also part THE BEST OF LAS VEGAS 5 Las Vegas & Environs 40 89 GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK PARK Mesa Mesa 10
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