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“The modern American tourist,” wrote historian Daniel J. Boorstin, “has come to expect both more strangeness and more familiarity than the world nat- urally offers.” That said, Ireland continues to offer more than its share of both. At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The lan- guage is the same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recogniza- ble, the stout legendary. Many visitors, notably Irish Americans, experience their arrival as a kind of homecoming. It takes a while for this superficial reverie to wear off. When it does, the other face of Ireland shows itself, and this is when the country becomes truly exciting. Ireland is a place of profound contradiction and complexity. For one thing, it is at the same time both ancient and adolescent. It’s as young as it is old. Ireland’s age is obvious to anyone with a car. Within a half day’s drive of downtown Dublin lie Neolithic tombs, Bronze Age forts, early Christian monas- tic sites, Viking walls, and Georgian estates—enough antiquity to make your head spin, all in plain sight. Centuries-old are as commonplace in Ireland as Wal-Mart stores are in the United States. The Irish past doesn’t exist just in books; it’s in the backyard. A shovel, digging for peat or potatoes, may well strike a 5,000-year-old grave. Thousands of unexcavated ancient sites litter the coun- tryside. Any visitor to Ireland who ventures beyond its shops and pubs will soon be struck by how the country revels in its age. What is less obvious is how new Ireland is as a nation. The Republic of Ire- land, with its own constitution and currency, is barely 50 years old. Mary McAleese, the current president of Ireland, is only the eighth person to hold that office. In political age, Ireland, for all its antiquity, is a mere pup. Like any ado- lescent, it’s doing many things for the first time, and at least a few of its contra- dictions make sense when you keep that fact in mind. Compounding Ireland’s youth as a nation is the youth of its people. Roughly half of the population is under 25, and nearly a quarter is under 15. This means that, in some homes, those who once fought for Irish independence are living under the same roof with those who have never known anything else. In these same homes, the gap between generations is often seismic. It is indeed curious that in a country where what happened 1,000 years ago reads like yesterday’s news, it is common to feel old and outnumbered at 30. Ireland’s past has been remarkably tumultuous, inspiring a tradition of courage, humor, and creativity. Change is nothing new to the island, yet the rate and scale of the changes occurring in Ireland today are without precedent. And that’s where the contradictions become so endearing, like the old farmer in a tweed cap who is afraid of computers but rings his bookmaker on a cellphone. Like the publican progressive enough to have a website but traditional enough to not like seeing a woman drinking from a pint glass. (Older folks often tsk-tsk that “Ladies should drink from half-pint glasses.”) Like the grocer-cum-post office, or better still, the grocer-cum-hardware store-cum-pub, both common 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 4

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entities in many a rural town. Like the national weather forecasts, which, even with the help of a gazillion satellites, still manage to appear so parochially infor- mal. One Nostradamus-like radio weatherman actually offered this by way of a forecast: “It’s dry and clear across most of the country, and let’s hope it stays that way.” The magic of today’s Ireland lies in these daily slices of life. Take the time to let them wash over you.

1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns • Dalkey (): This most attractive large town in Ire- charming south-coast suburb of land. See chapter 6. Dublin enjoys both easy access to • Kinsale (County ): Kinsale’s the city and freedom from its narrow streets all lead to the sea, snarls and frenzy. It has a , an dropping steeply from the hills island, a mountaintop folly, and a that rim the beautiful harbor. This few parks, all in ample miniature. is undoubtedly one of Ireland’s With all the fine and simple most picturesque towns, but the restaurants and pubs and shops myriad visitors who crowd the anyone needs for a brief visit or a streets every summer attest to the long stay, Dalkey is a tempting fact that the secret is out. The town to settle into. See chapter 4. walk from Kinsale through Scilly • Carlingford (County Louth): to Charles Fort and Frower Point What a pleasant surprise, up in is breathtaking. Kinsale has the lackluster Louth: A charming, added benefit of being a foodie tiny medieval village with castle town, with no shortage of good ruins right on the bay, excellent restaurants. See chapter 8. eateries, and pedestrian-friendly • Kenmare (County Kerry): If lanes filled with colorful shops, you’re driving the Ring of Kerry, cafes, and pubs. See chapter 5. this is the most charming base • Inistioge (County Kilkenny): camp you could wish for. The “lit- Nestled in the Nore River Valley, tle nest” has a blessed location at cupped in the soft palm of the mouth of the River Roughty rounded hills, this idyllic river- on Kenmare Bay, and is loaded to front village with two spacious the gills with flower boxes, greens and a collection of pleasant enchanting shops, and places to cafes and pubs is among the most eat. See chapter 9. photographed Irish towns. It also • Adare (): Like a attracts hosts of anglers, because perfect little medieval town fish invariably show good taste plucked from a children’s book, and love this place. See chapter 6. Adare is a bastion of thatched cot- • Kilkenny (County Kilkenny): tages, black-and-white timbered Slightly larger than a small town houses, lichen-covered churches, but terribly picture-postcard and romantic ruins, all strewn nonetheless, Kilkenny may offer along the banks of the River the best surviving Irish example of Maigue. And it’s got two of the a medieval town. Its walls, the best hotels and one of the best splendidly restored castle, and the restaurants in Ireland, to boot. See renowned design center housed in chapter 10. the castle stables draw visitors • Westport (): It’s from Ireland and abroad. never a surprise in Ireland when Kilkenny, however, is no museum. someone says Westport is his Many regard it as perhaps the favorite town—it’s small and 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 5

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bursting. Someday it might town that somehow manages to be explode into a city, but for now as friendly and welcoming as a vil- Westport remains a hyperactive lage. See chapter 13.

2 The Best Natural Wonders • The Slieve Bloom Environmen- Tower. The views of the open sea, tal Park (County Laois): Slieve of the distant Aran Islands, and of Bloom, Ireland’s largest and most the of Connemara unspoiled blanket bog, has been (see below) are spectacular. A walk described as a “scenic bulge” rising south along the cliff edge at sunset gently above the midland’s peat makes a perfect end to any day. fields. Its beauty—gentle slopes, See p. 376. glens, rivers, waterfalls, and bog- • (County Mayo): lands—is subtle rather than dra- Rising steeply 750m (2,500 ft.) matic, but it is comparatively above the coast, Croagh Patrick is untouched. You can have it more Ireland’s holiest mountain, to or less to yourself, apart from its which the saint is said to have deer, foxes, and badgers, and an retreated in penance. The place is occasional marten or otter. See the biblically imposing. Traditionally, box “Beyond the Pale in County barefoot pilgrims climb it on the Laois” in chapter 5. last Sunday of July, but in recent • MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County years, hundreds of Nike-shod Kerry): One of several mountain tourists have been making the ranges on the , ascent daily. The view from above MacGillycuddy’s Reeks boasts the can be breathtaking or nonexist- highest mountain in Ireland, Car- ent—the summit is often wrapped rantuohill (1,361m/3,404 ft.). in clouds, adding to its mystery. Whether gazed at from afar or See “County Mayo” in chapter 13. explored up close on foot, the • The Twelve Bens (County Gal- Reeks are among Ireland’s greatest way): Amid Connemara’s central spectacles. See “Outdoor Pur- mountains, bogs, and lakes rises a suits,” under “Killarney,” in chap- rugged range known as the Twelve ter 9. Bens, crowning a landscape that • The Burren (County Clare): The is among the most spectacular Burren—from the Irish Boireann, in Ireland. Some of the peaks meaning “a rocky place”—is one are bare and rocky, others clothed of the strangest landscapes you’re in peat. The loftiest, , ever likely to see: a vast limestone in Connemara National Park, grassland, spread with a quilt of reaches a height of 719m (2,395 wildflowers from as far afield as ft.). See p. 408 for more informa- the Mediterranean, the Alps, and tion on visiting the park. the Arctic. Its inhabitants include • (): the pine marten and nearly every The Slieve League peninsula species of butterfly found in Ire- stretches for 48km (30 miles) into land. See “The Burren,” under the Atlantic and is 19km (12 “County Clare,” in chapter 10. miles) across at its widest point. • Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): Its wonderfully pigmented bluffs Rising from Hag’s Head to the are the highest sea cliffs in Europe, south, these magnificent sea cliffs and can be gazed at from Carrigan reach their full height of 228m Head or walked along, if you dare. (760 ft.) just north of O’Brien’s From below or from above, Slieve 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 6

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League serves up some of the most form the giant Finn McCool’s dazzling sights in Ireland. See path from the Antrim headland “Northern Donegal Bay,” under into the sea toward the Scottish “The Donegal Bay Coast,” in island of Staffa. This volcanic chapter 13. wonder, formed 60 million years • Giant’s Causeway (County ago, can be marveled at from a Antrim): In case you lose count, distance or negotiated cautiously roughly 40,000 tightly packed, on foot. See p. 519. mostly hexagonal basalt columns

3 The Best Castles • (County Meath): addition of beautiful landscaping Trim, also called King John’s Cas- around the castle. See p. 250. tle, recently restored as a “pre- • (County Cork): served ruin,” is the most massive Despite the mobs of tourists who and important Anglo-Norman besiege the castle daily, this majes- castle in Ireland. It proved all but tic tower house is worth a visit. impregnable for over 4 centuries While you’re there, check out the (late 12th to mid-17th), suffering Badger Cave and dungeons at the only one siege during that entire tower’s base, as well as the serpen- period. In fact, until it collapsed tine paths that wind through the sometime in the 17th century, it castle gardens, in a picturesque never underwent any significant rocky glen. Need we mention the alteration. For anyone with imagi- stone? You sidle in under the nation, Trim is a virtual gateway upper wall with your head hang- into medieval Ireland. See p. 201. ing over a 10-story drop. You kiss • (County Tipperary): it. It’s a thing people do. See One of the largest of Ireland’s p. 273. medieval fortresses, this castle is in • Charles Fort (County Cork): On an extraordinary state of preserva- a promontory in stunning Kinsale tion. Tours explain some fascinat- Harbor, the fort’s massive walls ing features of the military enclose a complex array of build- architecture, and then you’re free ings in varying states of repair. At to roam through a maze of tiny the entrance you’re handed a map chambers, spiral staircases, and and left on your own to explore, dizzying battlements. See p. 238. discover, and almost certainly get • (County Kil- lost in the maze of courtyards, kenny): Although parts of the cas- passages, walls, and barracks. See tle date from the 13th century, the p. 280. existing structure has the feel of an • and Folk Park 18th-century palace. There have (County Clare): The castle has been many modifications since been restored and filled with a medieval times, including the curious assortment of medieval

Impressions . . . we are a very perverse, complex people. It’s what makes us lovable. We’re banking heavily that God has a sense of humor. —Jim Murray, Los Angeles Times, 1976 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 9

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furnishings, giving the modern- • Carrickfergus Castle (County day visitor a glimpse into the life Antrim): This fortress on the bank of its past inhabitants. This is the of Belfast Lough is the best-pre- first stop for many arrivals from served Norman castle in Ireland. Shannon, so expect crowds. See It consists of an imposing tower p. 364. house and a high wall punctuated • (County Donegal): by corner towers. See p. 510. Location, location, location. This • (County Antrim): tower house is surrounded on The castle ruins surmount a three sides by the waters of Sheep razor-sharp promontory jutting Haven Bay and on the fourth by a into the sea. This was no doubt a moat carved into the bedrock that highly defensible setting, and the forms its foundation. With its castle wasn’t abandoned until a remote seaside setting and sweep- large section collapsed and ing views of the nearby hills, this into the breakers one day in 1639. is one of the most beautifully situ- See p. 519. ated castles in Ireland. See p. 459.

4 The Best of Ancient Ireland • Newgrange (County Meath): slowly, with an imagination Poised atop a low hill north of the steeped in Ireland’s past. See River Boyne, Newgrange is the p. 198. centerpiece of a dramatic mega- • Loughcrew (County Meath): At lithic cemetery dating from more this little-known site, not far from than 5,000 years ago. The mas- Newgrange, a series of cruciform sive, heart-shaped mound and passage tombs crown two hills. passage tomb were constructed, it On the east hill, a guide unlocks seems, as a communal vault to the door to one of the domed house cremated remains. The tombs, answering your questions tomb’s passage is so perfectly with a personal touch not possible aligned with the equinoctial sun- at the larger, more popular sites. rise that the central chamber, deep More rewarding, however, is a within the mound, is marvelously hike up the west hill to a second, illuminated at the winter solstice. more solitary series of tombs See p. 199. where the connections to be made • Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of between ruin and imaginative ritual significance from the Stone reconstruction are your own. See Age to the Christian period, Tara p. 199. has seen it all and kept it all a • Lough Gur (County Limerick): secret. This was the traditional This lakefront site will convince center and seat of Ireland’s high you that the Neolithic farmers of kings, who could look out from Ireland had an estimable sense of here and survey their realm. real estate. Inhabited for more Although the Tara hill is only than 4,000 years, the ancient 154m (512 ft.) above sea level, farming settlement offers a num- from here you can see each of Ire- ber of prehistoric remains. The land’s four Celtic provinces on a most impressive of these is the clear day. The site is mostly unex- largest surviving stone circle in cavated, and tells its story in whis- Ireland, made up of 113 stones. pers. It’s a place to be walked See p. 359. 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 10

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• Dún Aengus (County Galway): the other atop a nearby moun- No one knows who built this mas- tain—convey an unequaled sense sive stone fort, or when. The emi- of the scale and wonder of the nent archaeologist George Petrie ancient megalithic peoples’ rever- called Dún Aengus “the most ence for the dead. is magnificent barbaric monument well presented and interpreted, in Europe.” Facing the sea, where while Carrowkeel is left to itself its three stone rings meet steep and to those who seek it out. See 90m (300-ft.) cliffs, Dún Aengus “Exploring the Surrounding still stands guard today over the Countryside” under “Sligo & southern coast of the island of Yeats Country” in chapter 13. Inishmore, the largest of the • Navan Fort (County Antrim): Arans. See “Side Trips from Gal- There is now little to see of this way City” in chapter 11. place’s past greatness, though it • Carrowmore and Carrowkeel was once the ritual and royal seat (): These two mega- of . Thankfully, the interpre- lithic cities of the dead (Europe’s tive center here is nothing short of largest) on the Coolera Peninsula remarkable, and it offers a great may have once contained more introduction to the myth and than 200 passage tombs. The two archaeology of the fort, known in together—one in the valley and Irish as Emain Macha. See p. 517.

5 Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins • (County Wicklow): and the impressive tomb sculp- Nestled in “the glen of the two tures. The abbey’s tower is the lakes,” this important monastic tallest of its kind in Ireland. See settlement was founded in the 6th p. 252. century by St. Kevin, who was • The (County looking for tranquil seclusion. Its Tipperary): In name and appear- setting is disarmingly scenic, ance, “the Rock” suggests a exactly the opposite of the harsh citadel, a place more familiar with environment you’d expect ascetic power than with prayer. In fact, medieval monks to have sought Cashel (or Caiseal ) means out. Although quite remote, “fortress,” and so it was. The rock Glendalough suffered numerous is a huge outcropping—or rather assaults from the Vikings and the upcropping—of limestone topped English, and eventually dwindled with some of the most spectacular into insignificance. Today its pic- ruins in Ireland, including what turesque ruins collude with the was formerly the country’s finest countryside to create one of the Romanesque chapel. This was the loveliest spots in Ireland. See seat of clerics and kings, a center p. 176. to rival Tara. Now, however, the • Jerpoint Abbey (County Kil- two sites vie only for tourists. See kenny): Jerpoint is perhaps the p. 239. finest representative of the many • Skellig Michael (County Kerry): Cistercian abbeys whose ruins dot Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) off- the Irish landscape. What draws shore of the Iveragh Peninsula, ris- visitors are the splendid cloister, ing sharply 214m (714 ft.) out of the most richly carved in Ireland, the Atlantic, is a stunning crag of 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 11

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rock dedicated to the Archangel surrounding sea present a stun- Michael. In flight from the world, ning sight, well worth the effort early Irish monks in pursuit of required to reach the shores. See “white martyrdom” chose this “Exploring the Surrounding spot to build their austere her- Countryside,” under “Sligo & mitage. Today, the journey to Yeats Country,” in chapter 13. Skellig, across choppy seas, and • Clonmacnois (County Offaly): the arduous climb to its summit This was once one of Ireland’s are challenging and unforgettable. most important religious, artistic, See “The Skellig Islands,” under and literary centers, a place of pil- “The Iveragh Peninsula,” in chap- grimage and high culture. ter 9. Founded in the mid–5th century • Inishmurray (County Sligo): at the axis of the River Shannon This uninhabited island nearly and the medieval east-west thor- 6.5km (4 miles) off the Sligo coast oughfare known as the Eiscir is home to a most striking monas- Riada, Clonmacnois thrived for tic complex, surrounded by what centuries until its prime riverfront appear to be the walls of an even location brought repeated raids more ancient stone fort. Despite that nearly proved its undoing. its remoteness, the Vikings sought Even in ruins, Clonmacnois out this outpost of peace-seeking remains a place of peculiar beauty monks for destruction in 807. and serenity. See p. 481. Today its circular ruins and the

6 The Best Literary Spots • Glasnevin Cemetery (County became University College Dublin): Besides being the setting Dublin, where Gerard Manley for part of the sixth episode of Hopkins began teaching in 1884, Ulysses, this is the resting place of as a professor of Greek; after 5 James Joyce’s parents and several years of teaching here, Hopkins other members of his family. The died at the age of 44. James Joyce English-born poet Gerard Manley studied here from 1899 to 1902. Hopkins is buried here, in the See p. 135. Jesuit plot. Maud Gonne, the Irish • North Dublin: The streets north nationalist and longtime Dublin of the Liffey are home to many of resident who is said to have the characters in James Joyce’s sto- inspired Yeats’s play Cathleen ní ries and novels; Joyce lived in this Houlihan, is buried in the Repub- part of Dublin and had a special lican plot. See p. 134. affinity for it. Much has changed • Newman House (County since his time, and Bloom’s house Dublin): Cardinal John Henry at 7 Eccles St. has been replaced Newman was the first rector of the by a new wing of the Mater Pri- Catholic University in Dublin, vate Hospital. Still, many memen- which was housed in two build- tos of the city as it was in 1904 ings on St. Stephen’s Green in the survive. Tours of the area begin at center of the city’s south side. He the James Joyce Centre (p. 137). worked in that capacity from See chapter 4. 1852 until his retirement in 1859. • St. Patrick’s Cathedral (County The Catholic University later Dublin): Jonathan Swift was born 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 12

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in Dublin in 1667, and entered the county is signposted in recog- Trinity College in his 15th year. nition of some relation to W. B. He later became dean of St. Yeats. The poet’s writing was Patrick’s Cathedral, and is buried shaped by the landscape, mythol- alongside Hester Johnson (Stella) ogy, and people of this region. in the cathedral’s south aisle. See Many of Sligo’s natural and his- p. 131. toric monuments—including • The Aran Islands: John Milling- Lough Gill, Glencar Lake, Ben ton Synge set his play Riders to the Bulben Mountain, and Maeve’s Sea on Inishmaan, and wrote an tomb atop Moun- account of life on the islands, tain—appear in Yeats’s poetry. titled simply The Aran Islands. There are also several museums Liam O’Flaherty, known for his housing first editions, photo- novel Famine, is from the island of graphs, and other memorabilia, Inishmore. See “Side Trips from and Yeats’s grave is in Drumcliff. Galway City” in chapter 11. See chapter 13. • County Sligo: It seems at times that every hill, house, and lake in

7 The Best Gardens • Powerscourt Gardens (County town of Glengarriff to Garinish Wicklow): One of the most Island, the unlikely site of a fine grandiose of Irish gardens, set Italianate garden. The formal gar- amid the natural splendor of the den, with the Casita at its center, northern Wicklow Hills. Only is linked to a “wild garden” that 19km (12 miles) from Dublin, the showcases a collection of rhodo- gardens and nearby waterfall make dendrons, azaleas, and rare trees. a great day’s outing, and a wel- See p. 294. come respite from the noise and • Glenveagh National Park congestion of the city. See p. 178. (County Donegal): The gardens • Japanese Garden (County Kil- and castle are located in a barren, dare): On the grounds of the beautiful valley high in the hills of National Stud, this is considered Donegal, along the banks of Lough the only authentic Japanese gar- Veagh. The park contains a statu- den in Ireland, and one of the ary garden, a walled garden, and a finest in Europe. A Japanese spe- rhododendron-lined path that cialist planned the structure and leads to a stunning vista overlook- symbolism, and most of the plants ing castle and lake. See p. 460. and stones were imported from • Gardens Japan. See p. 192. (County Down): Built upon an • Creagh Gardens (County Cork): elaborate plan, the Mount Stewart Meandering paths lead the visitor House has several small gardens of past a sequence of exquisite vistas, distinctive character. The Ards with many hidden corners to Peninsula provides a climate con- explore. The garden is on a beau- ducive to cultivating many sub- tiful estuary. tropical species. The statuary, • Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferry topiary, and planting designs conveys visitors from a lovely, rho- reflect a touch of whimsy. See dodendron-rimmed bay in the p. 512. 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 13

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8 The Best Attractions for the Whole Family • The Ark: A Cultural Centre for • & Gardens Children (Dublin): The Ark pro- (Killarney, County Kerry): This vides a unique chance for kids to stunning Victorian mansion with have hands-on exposure to art, its exquisite gardens is also home music, and theater in workshop to skilled artisans at work. Nearby sessions with artists. There are also are a series of reconstructed tradi- excellent theater productions for tional farms, with animals and families. See p. 140. docents, providing a gateway to • Dublin’s Viking Adventure rural Ireland as it was for cen- (Dublin): This is a fun learning turies. See p. 323. experience. Kids travel back in • Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Din- time to be part of Viking life with gle, County Kerry): Every day, “real Vikings” working and inter- fishing boats ferry visitors out into acting in a model Norse town. It’s the nearby waters to see Fungie, on the site where the Vikings the friendliest dolphin you’re ever made their home in Dublin. See likely to meet. Fungie really does p. 141. swim up to the boat, and the boat- • Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park men stay out long enough for (Dublin): Kids love this nearly 24- ample sightings. You can also hectare (60-acre) zoo, with its arrange an early-morning dolphin array of creatures, animal-petting swim. See p. 336. corner, and train ride. The sur- • Bunratty Castle and Folk Park rounding park has room to run, (County Clare): Kids are picnic, and explore for hours (or enthralled by this great restored days!). See p. 142. medieval castle and re-created • Irish National Heritage Park 19th-century village. It’s complete (): Nearly 9,000 with a school and loaded with years of Irish history come alive active craftspeople. See p. 364. here in ways that will fascinate vis- • Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank, itors of all ages. The whole family County Fermanagh): Adventurous will be captivated by the story of families are guided by boat through ancient Ireland, from its first well-lit underground waterways to inhabitants to its Norman con- explore caves and view amazing querors. See p. 210. stone formations. See p. 550.

9 The Best Active Vacations • Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: riding holiday at Bansha House, a Spectacular coastal scenery, inter- commodious B&B with access to esting harbor towns, and an abun- an excellent nearby equestrian dance of islands make the West program. See p. 243. Coast a delight for cruising sailors. • Sea Kayaking in West Cork: In See “Sailing” in chapter 3. Castletownbere on the dramatic • Horseback Riding in the Galtee and rugged , Beara Mountains: The gentle contours Outdoor Pursuits specializes in of Tipperary’s Galty Mountains accompanied trips out and around offer the perfect scenic backdrop Bere Island and as far as Glengar- for trail riding. You’ll be provided iff. You can play it as safe or as with all you need for a horse- rough as you want. See p. 299. 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 14

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• Bicycling in the Southwest: The • Walking the Donegal Coast: The peninsulas and islands of Cork cliff-rimmed headlands of Donegal and Kerry are perfect for cycling, are the most spectacular in Ireland, with light traffic and an abun- and the best way to explore them is dance of beautiful places to visit. on foot. Among the finest walks are Roycroft’s Stores in Skibbereen, Slieve League, Glen Head, and County Cork, rent bikes that are a Horn Head. See “The Donegal notch above the usual rental Bay Coast” in chapter 13. equipment. See the “Sports & Outdoor Pursuits” sections in chapters 8 and 9.

10 The Best Luxury Accommodations • The Morrison (Dublin; & 01/ where the River Sheen meets the 887-2400): This stunning mini- Kenmare Bay estuary. Of the malist hotel is the best thing to hit graceful public rooms, don’t miss the central Northside in years. the wonderful 1,000-volume John Rocha’s design uses clean library, whose green leather sofas lines and quality, natural elements and floor-to-ceiling tomes evoke a to evoke a very sensuous, luxuri- fine gentlemen’s club. Each guest ous feeling of space and relax- room overlooks the falls (stunning ation. Halo, the atrium-style main when floodlit at night) or the bay. restaurant, is one of the most See p. 316. talked-about, exciting eateries in • (County Mayo; town. See p. 110. & 800/346-7007 in the U.S., or • Marlfield House (County Wex- 092/46003): Accommodation is an ford; & 800/323-5463 in the understatement for the degree of U.S., or 055/21124): This grand luxury and elegance you’ll find at 1820 house, amid mature gardens this castle on the north shore of and woods, is one of Ireland’s Lough Corrib—just ask Pierce most elegant and comfortable Brosnan, who held his wedding guest mansions. Equally renowned reception there in 2001. Its mag- is the cuisine, served in the dining nificent grounds comprise 140 room or the conservatory. Ameni- hectares (350 acres) of park and ties abound. See p. 219. woods and a golf course. Its two • (County restaurants, the Connaught Room Waterford; & 051/878203): An and the George V Room, will oasis of elegance and tranquillity likely leave you unmotivated to circled by the River Suir, this leave the grounds. See p. 427. island retreat offers both grandeur • Delphi Lodge (County Galway; and informality, along with shore- & 095/42222): This was once the line walks, a championship golf country hideaway for the marquis course, exquisite cuisine, and of Sligo, and now it can be yours, warm genuine hospitality. See too. Inside, the emphasis is on p. 231. clean, bright simplicity in perfect • Sheen Falls Lodge (County Kerry; taste; the grounds and environs & 800/537-8483 in the U.S., or are among the most beautiful in 064/41600): This salubrious Ireland. Tranquillity, comfort, and resort sits beside a natural water- fishing are the operative words fall on 120 hectares (300 acres) of here. You will want to stay longer lawns and semitropical gardens 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 15

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 15

than you’d planned—and by rent- cream coir carpet. Armoires, shut- ing one of the cottages for a week ters, and double doors are all or more, you can make the indul- inlaid with white opal glass. The gence more affordable. See p. 416. overall feel is one of luxurious, ele- • TENsq (County Antrim; & 028/ gant minimalism. Don’t miss a 9024-1001): This funky boutique meal at Porcelain, the hotel’s hotel overflows with Asian luxury. excellent, cutting-edge Asian Low-level beds with white com- fusion restaurant. See p. 505. forters and dark headboards lie on

11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • Lorum Old Rectory (County 18th-century farmhouse, restored Carlow; & 0503/75282): Hospi- with impeccable taste, has many tality is one of those intangibles charms, including award-winning that no one is able to define in gardens and a stable of Con- advance but which everyone nemara ponies. Spacious, welcom- knows when they’ve found it. A ing, and comfortable, Bruckless venerably warm and gracious House feels like home (or better) home, exquisite meals, a lovely after only a very short time. See setting, and a style that puts its p. 456. guests in rare form and humor • Rhu-Gorse (County Donegal; make this place one of Ireland’s & 073/21685): The views of best. See p. 186. from this eminently • Buggy’s Glencairn Inn (County comfortable modern guesthouse Waterford; & 058/56232): Ken are not to be believed. If you have and Cathleen Buggy have an the makings of a convert to Done- incredible talent for getting the gal, it will happen here. See p. 449. details right. Their guest rooms • Glencarne House (County are chock-full of covetable auction Leitrim; & 079/67013): This finds, the beds are like something attentively restored late-Georgian out of a fairy tale, and the restau- house on a 40-hectare (100-acre) rant is a foodie’s destination in working farm offers a rare quality itself. See p. 232. of hospitality and charm to mid- • Barnabrow Country House land lake region visitors. Lovely, (County Cork; & 021/465- spacious rooms, chiropractic beds, 2534): This completely original, gracious hosts, and award-winning highly romantic, and incredibly breakfasts are yours for surpris- stylish place to stay lies in the ingly affordable rates. Dinners are rolling hills of East Cork. Guest a high point, so there’s no need to rooms are exceptionally beautiful venture out once you’ve settled in. and feature a wonderful collection • Rosturk Woods (County Mayo; of African furniture and crafts. & 098/36264): Though it’s well- Kids are able to roam freely, and located on the road between New- there are plenty of tame animals to port and Achill Island, you won’t meet and pet—donkeys, ducks, realize how close it is to the sea hens, geese, sheep, goats—plus a until you reach the end of the long playground for letting off steam. driveway. Rooms are spacious, See p. 291. prettily decorated, and very com- • Bruckless House (County Done- fortable, with king-size beds and gal; & 073/37071): This mid- 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 16

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power showers in the bathrooms. home in a self-catering cottage or At under $100 per night, it’s a just spend a night in a magically super value. See p. 430. stunning landscape, it doesn’t get • and House (County much better than this perfectly Cavan; & 049/854-0237): A tasteful hideaway in the magical tower room in a centrally heated Mournes. See p. 529. haunted castle—with the longest • The Saddlers House and the bathtub I’ve ever seen—awaits Merchant’s House (County you at Ross Castle. It won’t take Derry; & 028/7126-9691 for too big a bite out of your wallet, Saddlers House, 028/7126-4223 either. It might not be elegance, for Old Rectory): Compared to the but it is unquestionably memo- Merchant’s House, the Saddlers rable. Warm, comfortable Ross House is modest. Its rooms are Castle and nearby Ross House are clean and spare, decorated with the great places to relax beside Lough simplicity that its merchant origins Sheelin, a noteworthy source of seem to demand. The Merchant trout and pike. See p. 489. House is more elegant, and beauti- • Slieve Croob Inn (County fully restored. Both houses, run by Down; & 028/4377-1412): the inimitable Joan Pyne, are a Whether you want to drop anchor brief stroll from the center of and set up a home away from Derry. See p. 539.

12 The Best Restaurants • One Pico (County Dublin; the freshest ingredients obtain- & 01/676-0300): Eamonn able. See p. 291. O’Reilly’s flagship venture is a • The Chart House (County sophisticated, grown-up, classy Kerry; & 066/915-2255): In this place, with excellent service and inviting bistro, everyone comes fantastic food. Expect surprising for Laura Boyce’s confident, sim- combinations of tastes and tex- ple cooking. Think wonderful tures, and a very memorable meal. comfort food with a flair—the See p. 116. kind of food you never tire of. • Coast (County Waterford; And the service is, as the Irish & 051/393646): For food lovers, would say, “spot on.” See p. 342. this is the great address to know • The Wild Geese (County Limer- about in Waterford. The dining ick; & 061/396451). After room is as chic and understated as spending years making other peo- you’d hope to find in New York or ple’s restaurants absolutely fabu- London, with modern, smart food lous, owner-chef David Foley that really makes you take notice. created a gem in one of the pretti- From start to finish, the meal est towns in Ireland. The cooking delivers just the right balance of is complex, flavorful, and refined, zing and restraint. See p. 233. yet always restrained. See p. 361. • Grapefruit Moon (County Cork; • Nimmo’s (County Galway; & 021/464-6646): Here’s an ele- & 091/561114): This is Galway’s gant, pared down little place in coolest, smartest tables—the place the middle of Ballycotton, an in town to see and be seen that appealing little village in East manages to serve up fantastic food Cork. Run by members of the and still be fun. It’s ideal for a fes- Allen family, of Ballymaloe fame, tive, romantic meal out, particu- the key to everything is using only larly on a starry night when you 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 17

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can see through the skylights. treat. The nettle soup, roast lamb, Desserts are brought in by Goya’s, and desserts of Noreen Lynch and the best bakery in Galway. See Brid McCartney warrant a detour p. 389. to the town of Carndonagh, • Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; where the living room of a small & 071/65155): In this lovely row house has been transformed country house with panoramic into an extraordinary restaurant. views of Lough Arrow and envi- See p. 468. rons, Christy and Moira Tighe • The Narrows (County Down; have created a culinary destination & 028/4272-8148). Who’d have with few peers. The menu, Irish in thought that the sleepy little focus, changes daily and never waterside hamlet of Portaferry fails to delight. The eight-course would have a restaurant like this? gourmet menu is the ultimate Danny Millar is one of the hottest indulgence. See p. 439. young chefs on this island—just • The Corncrake (County Done- ask Food & Wine magazine—and gal; & 077/74534): Such a judi- his complex-yet-earthy cooking is cious blend of fresh ingredients worth going out of your way for. and culinary imagination is a rare See p. 514.

13 The Best Pubs • Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): taken from an ocean liner, barmen A short distance from Dublin cen- in white butcher’s coats, and a ter, the Abbey Tavern is the perfect selection of delectable sandwiches. place to recover and refuel after A little slice of heaven. See p. 277. exploring , Ireland’s • McGann’s (County Clare): Eye, and the attractive fishing and Doolin, a dot of a town on the yachting village of Howth on the Clare Coast, is a magnet for tradi- northern tip of Dublin Bay. The tional Irish musicians—and is Abbey is known far and wide for consequently a wonderful spot to its ballads as well as its brew. See hear impromptu sessions of Irish p. 159. music. Gus O’Connor’s, down the • Brazen Head (County Dublin): road, is more famous (but also Nearly qualifying as one of Ire- thicker with tourists); McGann’s land’s ancient sites, the Brazen remains the genuine article with- Head, commissioned by Charles out the hype. See p. 380. II, is more than 300 years old, but • Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County its stout is as fresh as it comes. Galway): Famed for its seafood, Among its illustrious alumni are this centuries-old thatched-cot- Wolfe Tone, Daniel O’Connell, tage pub on the weir also draws a and Robert Emmet, who planned perfect pint. This may well be the the Dublin rising of 1803 under oyster capital of Ireland. It’s 19km the Head’s low timbers. In fact, he (12 miles) out of Galway and well was hanged not far from here worth the drive—or the walk, for when everything went wrong. See that matter. See p. 401. p. 155. • Smuggler’s Creek (County • The Long Valley (County Cork): Donegal): This place is worth a For anyone who knows and loves stop if only for its spectacular cliff- Cork, this is a place of pilgrimage. top views of Donegal Bay. Stone One endless, low-slung room with walls, beamed ceilings, open fires, a bar running its full length, doors excellent fare, and the brew that’s 03 542168 Ch01.qxd 12/12/03 8:50 AM Page 18

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true are among the charms propri- House in Belfast, is a Victorian etor Conor Britton has on tap. See gem. Your mouth will drop open p. 453. at its antique publican splendor • Crown Liquor Saloon (County even before you lift your first pint. Antrim): This National Trust pub, See p. 508. across from the Grand Opera

14 The Best Websites • Irelandhotels.com (www.ireland the database to avoid motorways hotels.com): What catapults this and toll roads, if you so desire. accommodations database ahead • Entertainment Ireland (www. of the raft of hotel-finding sites is entertainment.ie): This handy, its “search by facility” function. exhaustive, searchable database Gotta have a gym? Need to find a includes just about every event babysitter? Want an in-room going on in Ireland, from museum modem dataport for checking exhibitions to rock concerts to hot your e-mail? No problem. Just new plays to nightclub theme plug in your requirements and it nights. And there are well-written will spit out a list of hotels and reviews of them all, to boot. guesthouses that fit the bill. • Irish Family History Founda- • Ireland Consolidated (www. tion (www.irishroots.net): This irelandconsolidated.com): One of brand-new, comprehensive geneal- the best bucket shops specializing ogy resource contains documenta- in Ireland, it offers unsold tickets tion from all 32 counties on the on major airlines at well below island. Much of the archived published rates. information is free for your • Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland. perusal, and you can also avail of travel.ie): Bord Failte’s site is both researchers to do the work for you. easy to navigate and extremely • Newshound (www.nuzhound. informative. An excellent place to com): Hands down, the best sin- start gathering ideas for your trip. gular resource for keeping up to • AA Roadwatch (www.aaroad date on Northern Ireland. It’s a watch.ie): Planning on driving in searchable library of news articles Ireland? The route-planning fea- about developments in the North, ture of the Irish Automobile Asso- including a terrific timeline of key ciation’s site is brilliantly simple. events in “the Troubles.” In addi- Plug in your starting point and tion, there’s a vast array of articles destination, and you’ll get a very on the Republic, including travel detailed set of directions on how to and dining reviews. get from A to B. You can even tell