OCTOBER/2012 01 COVERSTORY

26 A unique 56 The movie that 10 Exclusive love story everyone’s talking about pedestrian day survey 29 A Bhutanese The first ever detailed scientific survey conducted in the country, which interviewed travels to Turkey 60 Living with a 1,000 households, shows that about 60.9 special needs percent of Bhutanese support the initiative but 35 Fiction brother only 34% want it to continue. Death of a Colonel, the first part of a 73 Thumbs up fiction series by and down INTERVIEW Karma Singye Dorji

40 A detailed look at the Domestic 62 In-depth interview with Violence Bill the central bank governor Many people say that these measures have 51 Actor Azha hurt many ‘mey nyamchus’ (common folk). Mey Namgay talks nyamchus cannot build houses, they will never about his quirk buy cars. It’s only some people who just make noise. 54 Restaurant Review DIPLOMACY

46 India, China and Bhutan “There were strong views among some prominent members of the then Bhutanese leadership that Bhutan should move closer to China rather than India, especially from ethnic and cultural points of view. These persons, who fortunately were in the small minority, failed to comprehend that when it comes to safeguarding a nation’s sovereignty and independence, ethnicity or racial policies and approaches may not prove to be in one’s true interests,”

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ur heart-felt felicitations to His Majesty the King, and Her Majesty the Queen, on the first anniversary of the Royal Marriage. The Raven is proud to launch on such an auspicious occasion. And a warm welcome to our readers, sponsors, and advertisers! Many have wondered why Bhutan would need another print publication in Othe market when the existing ones are struggling. It is only fair to think so given that it is not only in Bhutan, but the world over where print is struggling. The reasons vary, but nevertheless, these are challenges that those of us in the writing/journalism business will have to face and work with. In Bhutan we rely heavily on the government for the right policies to support the freedom and protection of those in this business. On the other hand, we will have to rely on the support of readers, sponsors, and advertisers to survive. Technology has revolutionized the way we get our information, the way we communicate, overcoming all kinds of physical barriers no matter where we are. In the course of this we come to realize that while we may not be culturally, ethnically, or religiously the same, or that we may not even share the same interests, there are some universal values and truths that we share. To name a few – we all want good leaders,

Post good government, transparency, social justice, basic human rights, and respect for civil Letters to the Editor liberties. We also come to learn of our differences and disagreements and that while ‘The Raven’ P.O.Box:1047, some may be tolerant of our views and thoughts, others may not. That in this world no Thimphu, Bhutan two people think alike and that while we agree on some, we can disagree on others. But the goal of The Raven is not to focus on our differences, because people have different tastes, preferences, likes and dislikes, as there are more than one way of looking at things. We will instead focus on the things we agree on; the universal values that bring us together as humans. We will try and see how we can work together Mail [email protected] through discussion, dialogue, education and awareness to improve the issues that confront us. By doing this we hope to improve the lives of those who live on the fringes of our society. There are many who don’t have the opportunities some of us have; such as opportunities to the basics things in life; an education, or the ability to Facebook facebook.com/ express themselves or speak out. theravenmagazine The Raven will bring to you the stories of the lives of the Bhutanese from all cross- sections of our society so that we come to a better understanding of our people, problems and issues that confront us. By doing that we hope that we strive for the Twitter socio-political changes that are necessary for making our society better. twitter.com/ bhutanraven Why The Raven? The Raven has deep significance in Bhutan. It is our guardian deity and national bird, and according to the Ten Amazing Facts about this bird, Ravens are considered the most intelligent of birds, displaying high learning ability and use of write to us logic for solving problems. We have many well wishers so we certainly will strive to meet their expectations. A great deal of hard work has gone into the production of our first issue and we look forward to the journey we will take with you; a process in which we will certainly learn a great deal ourselves. Stay with us.

Sonam Ongmo (Editor-at-Large)

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 3 TEAM & contributOrs

Publisher Dechen Ongmo Editor at Large Sonam Ongmo Managing Editor Karma Choden Correspondent: Tshering Dorji Business Director Kesang P Dorji Office Manager Karma Wangchuk

Tashi Wangmo has Peky Samal is a freelance worked previously journalist. Formerly the with Bhutan Today, news editor with ‘The Save the Children Bhutanese.’ and now works for UN Social Protection.

Chimmi Dolkar: A Karma Singye Dorji consultant by profes- organizes journeys and sion and presently adventures in Bhutan studying in The Neth- and is the author of erlands. ‘Dreaming of Prayer Flages: Stories & Images from Bhutan.

The Raven is a monthly publication ( Registration no 302000004) Content Copyright © The Raven. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form. The Raven is not responsible for statements expressed by non-staff contributors or advertising claims. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss or damage of unsolicited material. Subscription enquiries and change of address should be sent to The Raven PO Box 1047, Thimphu. For international orders outside Bhutan please contact Business Director at telephone no +975-2-338953 Email [email protected].

4 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 news in brief sept.

bumthang Caught for carrying blankets and mats from Chinese border n one of the few reported cases Iof illegally importing goods from the northern border, four men where caught by the Royal Bhutan Army at Kaktong army base early last month and was handed over to the police for carrying Chinese goods. The men along with eight horses where carrying blankets, mats and tea leaves from Thingkala where they kept their yaks.

MONGAR The Phallus Festival

trashigang ourists coming to Bhutan are Ttaken aback by the detailed A school caught between depiction of the male organ on walls and the phallus-wielding pigs and GNH atsara during festivals. But here is a surprise treat for even Bhuta- he Education ministry is faced with a strange Gross National Happi- nese - the annual phallus festival Tness test after the Khaling high school in Trashigang decided to give at Chali in Mongar. The villagers up rearing pigs as authorities there found it was against GNH values. carrying phalluses walked around The district education officer said the school did not want to rear a pig their cattle sheds and threw ash on and slaughter it later for food. But the School Agriculture, Feeding and the animals to ward off evil as part Environment (SAFE) division of the education ministry feels rearing of the three-day Kharam festival pigs is not against GNH. Moreover, the division is also unhappy with the last month. school decision. The pigsty costing at least Nu 300,000 is among other Tshewang, a farmer, joined his animal rearing program of the minister which where started to help with friends to the forest on the first the feeding program in schools. “They were built with great difficulties morning of the festival hunting and they decided to discontinue and dismantle them without informing for the right tree branches that can us,” the division head Chador Wangdi told Kuensel. The ministry has be carved as phalluses which are even issued a circular saying that rearing pigs or other animals is not later hung from roofs and erected against GNH values and should not be stopped. in fields.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 5 ADVT

The Raven wishes His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and Gyaltshuen Jetsun Pema a very auspicious first wedding anniversary. quotes

lyonchen jigmi y I used to admire her in my thinley On vet- eran Indian actor younger days and found Vaijayanthimala Bali while at the that she is as beautiful Indian state of Odisha early last as she used to be. month 'The constitution of Bhutan

mentions the word, Supreme court Chief justice ‘constitutional’ 15 times. It is lyonpo SOnam AROUND tobgye used as an adjective. On the making of Bhutan’s consti- It means that the government tution. is controlled or limited by the constitution. On private TV I am still stumped as to why english actor joanna lumley BICMA is not giving permis- Right up the hill side from On the best sion for the private TV stations: journey she has Paro in Bhutan on a pony ever taken. She Ugen Tsechup Dorji, Chairman, authored ‘Joanna Singye Group of Companies on Fa- towards a little Pagoda. It Lumley in the Kingdom of the cebook. paints a wonderful memory. Thunder Dragon’ Stuck in redtape Over and over again, as Had put up an official letter we struggled for words to Bobby ghosh to BICMA requesting for in- Editor at Large, describe what our eyes are Time Magazine formation on my application, one seeing, Nima Dorji, our guide, on his recent and a half months back. Till now, Bhutan trip. no reply: Tensin Dakpa, Promoter of smiles indulgently, “Nice, the private television station, Bhutan TV, on Twitter. no” he asks. Nice, yes. eric ripert French Chef and author, he is also a Buddhist. He PedDay Blues said this in Bhu- tan on the respect Walk! the PM says and the We must pay homage one should have to the souls. for animals killed nation walks. Welcome to for meat. democracy: National Council Lawmaker Sonam Kinga on Twitter.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 7 Bhutan Phoenix Tours and Treks

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INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON INTERPLAY SPORTS OF ECONOMICS POLITICS AND SOCIETY FOR boxing coaching INCLUSIVE GROWTH OCT 1ST WEEK OCT 15 CHODEN LHSS, YANGCHENPHUG ROYAL THIMPHU COLLEGE, THIMPHU HSS, PELKHIL HSS, THIMPHU Organized by the RTC and the Gross National The Bhutan Boxing Federation is conducting a Happiness Commission, the conference will basic boxing coaching for students. provide a space for discussions on the various thematic pillars for inclusive growth paths - policies, processes and institutions. The FESTIVAL conference theme is closely aligned to the overall goal of the eleventh five year plan of Bhutan -Self Jakar Tshechu Reliance and Inclusive Green Socio-Economic OCT 21 TO 25 Development. JAKAR DZONG, BUMTHANG Organized by the Dratsang Lhentshog, the prestigious Jakar Tshechu is a five-day festival BOOK LAUNCH attracting people from other dzongkhags too. The ROAR OF THE THUNDER DRAGON OCT CONFERENCE THIMPHU An excerpt of this book, written by the Druk A BHUTAN+10 Holding and Investments chairman, Lyonpo OCT 15 TO 19 Pradhan, is published in this issue of The Raven. THIMPHU The conference on gender and sustainable mountain development in a changing world, EXAMS organized by ICIMOD aims to bring together ROYAL CIVIL SERVICE COMMISSION EXAMS mountain women and men, researchers, policy OCT 12 TO 14 makers, and development practitioners from THIMPHU SCHOOLS the Hindu Kush-Himalayas region and around the world for a comprehensive update,and new About 1100 graduates in the country will sit for agenda setting after the Rio+20 meet. the Civil Service exam after making through the preliminary exam. There will be a briefing at the Nazhoen pelri hall on Oct 9.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 9 TEAM & contributers cover story Exclusive

Pedestrian Day Survey

In the first ever detailed scientific survey conducted in the country by the Centre for Research Initiative for The Raven, a 1,000 households were interviewed on the PedDay. The survey that used 40 enumerators on September 15 and 16 this year shows that about 60.9 percent of the Bhutanese support the initiative but only 34� want it to continue. 54� want it to be lifted altogether.

10 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 n a first ever detailed scientific survey to enforce this rule. It is clear that an constraints for civilians. conducted in the country by the Centre ill-thought rule implemented without How did Ped-day come about? Co- for Research Initiative for The Raven, good research on implementation is inciding with the World Environment a 1,000 households were interviewed. now causing a great divide in opinions Day on June 5 this year, the Government The survey that used 40 enumerators on who should and shouldn’t stay home. thinking it was acting in good faith and on September 15 and 16 this year shows On social media, one joked that making a sound environmental deci- that about 60.9 percent of the Bhuta- babies born on Tuesdays would grow sion passed an executive order declaring nese support the initiative but only 34% faster while another said that they Tuesdays as Pedestrian Day. What has want it to continue. 54% want it to be would sprout legs immediately after created controversy in this rule is that lifted altogether. These numbers show birth because they would have to walk it has to be observed in all 20 districts how some ideas may be great in con- on Tuesdays. as a measure to sensitize the public on Icept but harder to implement given the The Pedestrian Day was introduced environment and to reduce carbon foot- ground realities of people’s lives. with good intentions, nobody can deny print. From 8am to 6pm, the core town Of the Pedestrian Day supporters that. As prime minister Jigmi Y Thin- area including cities like Thimphu and 62.6% were male compared to 59.3% ley said, “Bhutanese all over will walk Phuentsholing have to be a pedestrian women. More women (56.2%) support- for their health and promote [the] joy zone. Only service vehicles such as ed the lifting of PD compared to men. of walking together with friends, family ambulances, fire brigades, armed force About a month ago, the government and colleagues, and thereby promote in- vehicles, buses, taxis (odd and even must have realized the inconveniences teraction and community vitality.” The numbers once a month) and bicycles this rule was causing some, particularly practicality of such a decision on the would be plying the city roads. working mothers who had young babies ground seems to have created a great The plan was shaped by five imple- at home. Bestowing its leniency it is- deal of confusion, inconvenience and menting agencies – the National Envi- sued a circular allowing breast-feeding mothers to stay and work from home. For Thimphu’s Rinchen Kuenphuen School which has seven breastfeeding PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS WANTING mothers this year this meant that school THE PED DAY TO BE DISCONTINUED was as good as “out” on Tuesdays. Prin- cipal Dema became a desperately wor- ried woman. She called the Thimphu Thromde after a government circular was issued. The final exams were near- ing and teachers taking off Tuesdays was going to affect the school in a big way. The Thromde replied that owing to the nature of their job teachers were expected to attend school. But while principal Dema is relieved the many teacher-mothers across the country are not. The exception is applicable to all civil-servant breast-feeding moth- ers creating confusion and making it rather tricky for the education ministry

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 11 cover story THE WALKERS Bhutanese people love walking but they do not want it to be forced on them

ronment Commission Secretariat, the without proper consultation but the im- Thimphu City Corporation, Road Safety plementors like the policemen have the and Transport Authority, Thimphu Traffic onus of trying to enforce something that Division and Bhutan Post. brings them into constant conflict with The Pedestrian Day is not a new idea, civilians. a similar initiative was introduced by the One person on social media said that agriculture ministry in August 2008 cu- he saw a mother with some kids in the riously called “the HEHE (Helping En- car fighting with a policeman on Ped- vironment, Health and Economy) walk”, day. “The mother,” he/she said, “was red expected to save 300 liters of fuel every in the face.” Another person said that Tuesday - yes the HEHE civil servants she had just arrived from the airport and had to walk on Tuesdays. The ‘no vehicle her house, which was one minute from day’ lasted only for a year after the en- the no car zone, was not even allowed to thusiasm dwindled and as Lyonpo Pema take her car there. She was stopped by Gyamtsho told a newspaper in February the cop a minute away and had to carry this year, “unsafe walk ways and traffic Luggage and all and walk to her house. do not inspire pedestrians.” “Thank god, my house wasnt five or ten Despite that, four months later the minutes away,” she said. cabinet, which included the agriculture The business community, mean- minister, passed the Pedestrian Day while, is planning to protest if the gov- rule, much to the chagrin of many ur- ernment doesn’t take appropriate action ban Bhutanese. People have pointed out to address the loss incurred to big and that not only was move implemented small businesses due to Pedestrian Day.

PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS SUPPORTING THE PED DAY

Shops in towns are forced to stay closed for lack of customers, trucks importing and exporting goods are stuck at bor- der towns causing huge losses, and construction materials cannot move on Tuesdays. Fifty-two unproductive days in a year is not a joke, they say. All in all, it seems that a not so well thought out good intent can actually turn out to seem bad in the end. Contrary to the benefits listed by the

12 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 government, the media cites immense questioned the validity of the BBS SMS are only English speaking who have a public dissatisfaction for the manner in voting. It was during this public debate strong opinion on the issue. Meanwhile which the initiative was implemented. that an official from the National Envi- the NEC survey in Thimphu said that of Ultimately, Bhutan Broadcasting Servic- ronment Commission (NEC) said that the 500 people interviewed 316 said ‘yes’ es (BBS) organized a live public debate. 70% of the people interviewed by the to the pedestrian day, and 94 said ‘no’ In the SMS and online poll organized as commission supported Ped-Day. and 90 where neutral. a part of the debate, an overwhelming It is apparent that People who partici- When a researcher for this survey ap- 2,847 votes where cast against the PD pate in an online or SMS poll are those proached the NEC for their study, only while only 1,315 supported it. who have access to the internet or a two MS Excel sheets that had the num- After this, Bhutan Information Com- mobile phone, and most likely to have ber of vehicles and people counted dur- munication Media Authority (BICMA) cars. Also it is likely that the respondents ing a pedestrian and non-pedestrian day

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 13 cover story

THE SURVEY BASICS

YES NO DON’T KNOW TOTAL

Supporting pedestrian day 60.9% (657) 32.6% (352) 6.5% (70) 100% (1079)

Discontinue pedestrian day 54% (573) 34% (361) 12.1% (128) 100% (1062)

Support mothers working from home 78.3% (817) 20% (209) 1.7% (18) 100% (1044)

were provided. The data had no detailed surveyed per cluster by a four member information on public opinion. But NEC team in a day. has counted a total of 3,419 cars at Chu- Random route procedures were used bachu Junction, 1,149 cars at Memorial to select sampled households. Unless Chorten, 3,368 cars at Vegetable Market an outright refusal occurred, interview- While the BBS poll and the Dzong stretch on a pedestrian ers made up to three attempts to survey day. It was random count without any the sampled household. To increase the was accused of methodology. probability of contact and completion, While the BBS poll was accused of be- attempts were made at different times being hijacked by ing hijacked by the anti-PD lot the NEC of the day, and on different days. If an the anti-PD lot the survey, critics said, could not be taken interview could not be obtained at the as the truth as the commission is part initial sampled household, a simple sub- NEC survey, critics of the Ped-Day initiative. stitution method was used. Considering the public interest for an All the 1,000 respondents were above said, could not be independent understanding of Ped-Day, the age of 18. Of the respondents 49% taken as the truth the Centre For Research Initiative con- (529) were male and 51% (550) female ducted the survey on September 15 and and only 15.5% were not educated. Within as the commission 16 in Thimphu. The primary sampling the educated level, 81% had a qualifica- units were clusters stratified by popula- tion higher than primary level. Of the is part of the tion size availed from the National Sta- total respondents 35.4% (383) were civil Ped-Day initiative tistic Bureau (NSB) and the household servants, 19.9% (215) were housewives, selection was administered through 21.2% (229) private employees, 12.8% simple random sampling. (139) business people, 0.9% (10) taxi driv- Of the 72 enumeration areas listed ers and 9.5% (103) others. 50.4% of the by NSB, 30 were selected by Probability respondents used their own car for daily Proportionate to Size (PPS) based on transportation, while 22.6% used taxi, assumption that 35 households will be 16% the city bus, 8.9% walked home,

14 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 while the remaining 2% took a lift. But even as good as it could get for cent civil servants and 48.9 percent of Without a doubt Ped-Day is some- them about 80 percent of the taxi driv- the business/shopkeepers wanted PD to thing good for taxi drivers and so their ers said Ped-Day should be lifted for the be discontinued. support to it was the highest at 70 per- primary reason that the imposition of In the wake of criticisms, the gov- cent. About 63.3 percent of private em- even/odd number-plying rule and insur- ernment has relaxed PD rules allowing ployees and 61 percent of civil servants gence of taxis from other district made vehicles carrying tourists, patients and and housewives also supported the idea. it competitive and affected their income. corpses to ply through the no vehicle The lowest support came from the busi- Also 58.3 percent of the housewives, 55 zone. ness sector at 50.4%. percent of private employees, 50.3 per- But none of these relaxations has

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 15 cover story

made it any convenient for the Royal the others. The Superintendent of Police thority has been monitoring the road Bhutan Police in enforcing the rule on for the Traffic Division, Major Passang to see that taxis do not over charge on Dorji said that it has created “extra work” pedestrian days. Yet, some taxis over- for them. “But it doesn’t mean we are charge. Parents with small school-go- not going to do the job. It is the decision ing children, sometimes in different For those with of the govt. and we will see that it is fol- schools, have complained that they lowed properly by the public.” spend about Nu 500 on taxis on Tues- disposable income The traffic division has had to arrange days. But RSTA Director Lam Dorji said taxi fares are for extra manpower on Tuesday’s, as the that is because “Bhutanese are not or- existing number of traffic police has not ganized. If they find out the bus routes, hardly something been enough. An additional of 25-30 they will save themselves the headache, police personnel were deployed by the time and money.” to worry about RBP to meet the Ped-Day demand. Po- For those with disposable income taxi and there is lice watching the entry and exit points fares are hardly something to worry about of no ply zones are kept on a six-hour and there is always a taxi. It is the lower- always a taxi. It is shift from 6 am to 12 pm and 12 pm to 6 income group that pays a steep price. pm. Though the police and armed forces If most are taking taxis, “who is re- the lower-income vehicles are allowed to move around, the ally doing the walking?,” asked Tshering group that pays a RBP has also imposed some self-restric- Yangzom who runs the Tiny Toes day tion on vehicle movement. care center. steep price. The Road Safety and Transport Au- The rule has health benefits, good

PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS BY GENDER

16 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 environmental implications; reduces list of things that were not taken into “I am 62 years old, and for me to learn fuel consumption and pollution. How- consideration cited in the survey were to ride a bicycle at this age is not conveni- ever, it has come down very poorly at the the lack of adequate public transport ser- ent, to ride from Babesa to my office is not implementation level because i) it was vices, unregulated taxi fares, business convenient, it’s physically challenging yet not done in proper consultation with the losses, inconvenience to parents with I have decided to go through it,” he then people or sought how effective it would small school going children, problems said. If that is the case then it seems that be ii) did not take into consideration the during illness and death, emergency everyone, including the Prime Minister, costs that it would incur through law en- and hampering inter-district travel. The agrees that it is an inconvenience - so why forcement, businesses, productivity in views from business respondents came do we continue to have it? work iii) nothing goes down well if it very strong with some of them saying is forced. that the nation’s economy freezes on (Study authors: Gyambo Sithey and It is now being viewed as a top down Tuesdays. Kesang Thinley of the Center for Research execution without any economic ben- During the monthly press meet in Initiatives, Changangkha, Thimphu efit to Bhutan for the average Bhutanese. July, the agriculture minister said what it [email protected]. www.cri.com.bt, Ped-day could’ve been implemented in was difficult to consult on the pedestrian additional reporting by Raven Team) many other ways. day, because one person’s convenience For one, certain streets in the main will be another person’s inconvenience. town could be cordoned off on a Sunday The prime minister backed the com- so that people are encouraged to walk ment saying that for him, who has through town. started cycling to office, the attempt is But as it is now, it seems that on the an inconvenience.

PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS BY CAR OWNERSHIP

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 17 photo essay

A tradtional house in Pongchaling, a village above Kagtong, Lower Kheng

kheng colours Students in the remote village of Kagtong explore and document life and culture in their village using modern digital photography.

18 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 Neighbour Kezang is grinding maize using her hand mill. Photo by Sangay Wangchuk, 13, student of Kagtong Community Primary School

Markus Wild, A Swiss photographer and teacher, has been regularly working in Bhutan since 2005. For HELVETAS Swiss Intercooperation Bhutan he is engaged in the fields of culture and education. For a project on cultural diversity in Bhutan he is conducting a participatory photo documenta- tion in four remote communities. Students and Non Formal Education (NFE) learners are taught in digital photography to explore and document life and culture of their village.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 19 he eyes of Tshering Wangmo, a 13-year-old student of Kagtong Com- munity Primary School begin to shine when she gets to hold the small black digital camera for the first time. A Tgroup of children is sitting in a circle around me and I’m impressed how carefully they listen when I tell them how to handle the camera and how to take good pictures. They are eagerly waiting to take their first photos. The arduous trek through the mountainous landscape of Zhemgang’s Lower Kheng have led me along rivers, through forests and passing by villages surrounded by fields and orchards. The natural environment reminds me of my home country Switzerland but there is a big difference: when I walk through these pristine forests with their incredible richness of species of plants and animals and with the lack of disturbance or de- struction by all the negative side effects of devel- opment I begin to realize what modern countries like Switzerland have lost. Bhutan is famous for its extraordinary biodi- versity. Less well known however is its cultural diversity. In fact there is a fascinating variety of languages, customs and traditions in the different regions of the country. They all together contrib- ute with their distinct and often unique local tradi- tions to the rich Bhutanese culture. From the end of the road in Pantang it takes Tshering Wangmo me two days to reach Kagtong. During a former sharing photos with visit at the Community Primary School the princi- teacher Prakash pal and the teachers agreed upon my proposal to Gurung conduct a participatory photo documentation on local culture at their school. This activity is part of a project on “Leveraging and Preserving Bhutan’s Cultural Diversity” (details see below). The local Primary Community School has 105 students from class PP till VI, all day scholars. Within two weeks some 25 children from classes IV to VI would be learning how to explore and document life and culture in their own village by using a photo camera. While working in remote villages with students on the topic of local culture I develop a growing respect towards the profound knowledge and experience the villagers have in order to live in harmony with their natural environment. Their

20 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 traditional houses, all the self made objects that Pema Dorji’s father people use in their everyday life, their spiritual is helping to make relation to the land and the beings living within a new roof. Photo reveal a deep knowledge and understanding by Ugyen Dema, 12, student of Kagtong about how to live respectfully with and from Community Primary nature. This knowledge has been developed and School handed down over generations. However, with the arrival of roads and elec- tricity and with modernisation many aspects of traditional culture are at risk of getting lost. The participatory photo project is connecting the school with the villagers as experts of their lo- cal culture. The assignments enable the students to learn about their own local culture, to see it in a new light and to better value and respect local specialists and knowledge keepers. At the same time the students learn how to use digital photography in a creative and benefit- ting way.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 21 photo essay

Everyday the students have other topics to cover and to explore: they have to take pictures and to get information from their relatives –as experts on their local traditions- on the construc- tion of traditional houses, the usage of plants, on rituals and ceremonies, stories and legends, sacred places and many other aspects of their local culture. Thinley Wangmo, after two weeks of intensive work has compiled an impressive amount of interesting and good photographs. With lively gestures she explained about all the details in the pictures she took. She – like all the other children- is still closely related to everything and everyone in the village, so she has a lot to share when talking about the content of each of her photos. I am busy writing down all the information that the students share with me. In return I Overview of Kagtong would give tips to each of the young photogra- Community Primary phers how they could further improve their newly School

22 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 A school class from Thimphu is visiting the Photo exhibition “Life in Ngangla Through the Children’s Eyes” at the Tarayana Centre, May 2011

Villagers are making a new roof using bamboo poles and banana leaves

acquired photographic skill. This is the agree- ment: I would share my knowledge on photogra- phy and the students, information local culture. Two weeks later Tshering Wangmo is among three other students from Kagtong Community Primary School who are chosen to accompany the photos to a big exhibition in Thimphu: “Life in Ngangla Through the Children’s Eyes”. For every- one of the group it is the first visit in the capital. At the opening event in the gallery of the Tarayana Centre, Sangay Dorji (12), one of the two boys in the group, delivered a speech in front of Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, ministers and many other dignitaries. The photos impress the visitors as the children explain about their work and life in their village. Later on, urban students also arrive to the life of far away Kheng.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 23 photo essay

Walking home after school

ith road access and penetra- tion of global forces like the W A farmer from Kagtong media and international markets, with freshly harvested many communities are in transi- cabbage tion and their distinctive cultural practices are in serious danger of being lost. Therefore, the project “Preserving and Leveraging Bhu- tan’s Cultural Diversity” (LCD) was planned with the overall goal to capitalize on Bhutan’s cultural diversity so that it can contribute to poverty alleviation, livelihood improvement and enhanced local ownership for cultural wealth, through capacity building, inter- cultural dialogue and preservation measures. The LCD project is run in four selected communities in remote places of Bhutan by HELVETAS Swiss Intercoopera- tion Bhutan and funded by the European Union.

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The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 25 relationship

Maggots had infested his wounds and even the street dogs sniffed him over, he said. Such was his condition. At Pune, he was kept at the Spi- nal Cord Injury Center for three It must years. When Devi Maya first heard of the tragedy, she was shocked and deeply aggrieved. But, she said, she pulled herself up together realiz- ing that strength was what was re- quired of her and waited patiently while her husband underwent be love treatment. When he finally returned home, As the United Nation observes the he was a ghost of his former image. He had lost so much weight it was International Day for Rural Women like he had shriveled up. Paralyzed on October 15, the story of a village from his waist-down he now need- ed attention like a baby. woman and her dedication to her Devi Maya took it upon herself paralyzed husband tells us what this to assume the role of mother and wife. “I could not leave him alone day is all about. Peky Samal writes when he needed me and had no one else,” she said. Kumar Ghalley says he is bless- ed to have her as his wife. “She’s evi Maya Ghalley from Kumar Ghalley was test-driving very hardworking and wise,” he Samtse was just 18 a vehicle he had repaired with two said with deep respect for the when she was engaged of his colleagues, when the vehi- woman by his side. to Kumar Ghalley 27. cle met with an accident. He was Sometimes family can be a He was from the same rushed to the Thimphu Hospital blessing in times of tragedies ral- Dvillage and was a robust man; full where the examining doctor told lying behind you to give you sup- of life. At that time Kumar Ghalley him that his spinal cord had been port and strength. But while some worked as a mechanic for the Royal dislocated and that his chances of are blessed with that, others like Bhutan Army while she, given her survival were slim. Kumar are faced with not just one lack of education, remained the tra- But Kumar Ghalley, a man with challenge but also the challenge ditional dependent housewife. But a fiesty and indomitable spirit, of having to accept relatives that life has its surprises and one never pleaded with the hospital to refer abandon you when you are at your knows when the roles of depend- him to India. He was first taken most vulnerable state. Apparently ency are reversed. In a relationship to Kolkata and then to Pune, his Kumar’s relatives did not want to it is all about supporting each other medical expenses borne by the gov- take it upon themselves to have to through the ups and downs of a ernment of Bhutan. bear this burden of taking care of married life but that doesn’t always He recalled the journey as “hur- a vegetative relative. It can be very happen. tling between life and death”. He trying and people who have no re- On June 28, 1994, one month traveled as a bundled up mass of sources at their disposal; people into her marriage with Kumar flesh in tarpaulin; he was bleeding who are ignorant and lack the un- Ghalley, tragedy struck. and pus had collected in his sores. derstanding that love and a kind

26 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 “I have to devote all my time to my husband, so where’s the time to wish for children?”

Kidu of Nu 1,000 a month. confident love Asked if she ever regrets her Devi Maya with decision to stay married to Ku- her husband, mar, Devi Maya says sometimes Kumar Ghalley she does feel sad about the state of affairs, but she steels herself and fights back the negative feelings. She obviously loves Kumar to dedi- cate her life and time to him, and she fortunately also has the sup- port of her family. Both say that their life, otherwise, is pretty much like any other couples. They have their share of disagreements and fights but the good thing is they always make up. Devi Maya feels that Kumar Ghalley is sometimes a tad too impatient when she has several chores to attend to at once, but she word is all that is needed at such ence moving around in his wheel says, “it is understandable”. times, are no where to be found. It chair. He exudes confidence and Asked if she ever nurtured the was Devi Maya who stood by him radiance and there is not a trace of wish to become a mother, she and nurtured and cared for him. self pity in him. smiles, “I have to devote all my Even today, she continues to Thanks to Devi Maya, Kumar time to my husband, so where’s feed and bathe him. She takes spends his time meaningfully; the time to wish for children?” to him to the toilet, dresses him, mas- praying, reading, watching televi- which Kumar responded with a big sages his limbs and makes sure sion, chatting with neighbors and smile, “sometimes she drops great that he is comfortable and not in enjoying the scenery outside his pearls of wisdom from her mouth.” pain. Perhaps because of the all home which is a small four-room Devi Maya is clearly a wise woman. the love he is receiving, Kumar is army quarter that was given him She knows that happiness, at the confident in Devi Maya’s love. He by the government. end of the day, comes from giving is outspoken and gregarious and He received his pension of Nu much of yourself in dedication to demonstrates some independ- 0.2 million and receives a Royal a loved one.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 27 MITSUBISHI MOTORS Drive@ earth

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A Bhutanese finds Norzin Lam in Istanbul

I will unashamedly admit, that while the un-abiding of traffic rules in Bhutan and India can drive me nuts sometimes, in Istanbul I found myself at home and realizing I had missed this craziness in Europe.CHIMMI DOLKAR writes

urkey has always been on for saying “If the earth was a single rope, with four great friends and my bucket list of travel state, Istanbul would be its capital.” the blue mosque loads of fun. destinations. So when I I was the only Bhutanese stu- is visited by Before the trip I went through got an Istanbul oppor- dent in the group and my only people of all several travel books on Turkey, hop- tunity from the Interna- Turkish connection has been religions ing to download as much informa- Ttional Institute of Social Studies in watching the ‘Turkish Spa’ display tion on Istanbul as I could. After the Hague where I study, I didn’t board while driving past Hong- all, it is a far cry from Bhutan, and want to miss being in the world’s kong Market in Thimphu. my knowledge of this place was only city that stands on two conti- Despite the looming threat of limited to knowing it as a member nents, Europe and Asia. And one assignments and exams, I decided of the European Union or a place can’t blame Napoleon Bonaparte to enjoy the seven days out of Eu- where “East meets West.”

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 29 TRAVEL

We reached Istanbul around ning across the streets even when midnight after a tiring five-hour the lights turned green. It was so transit wait at Munich. It is a time un-European that in the beginning when most retire for the day leav- my European friends were fraz- ing the travelers of ungodly hours zled and disoriented by the blar- to the mercy of unpredictable cab- ing horns. But to me it seemed like bies. But in Istanbul, the taxi driv- the office hour rush along Norzin ers, it seems, weren’t done for the Lam had arrived. day. With no taxi-meters we hag- Eventually, my friends seemed to gled a good price to get to the city. ease in and move with the flow. They Since our time in Istanbul had back certainly seemed to learn that ‘when to back meetings and workshops in Rome...’ and so like the rest, they nearly every day, we planned our followed suit in breaking every traf- seven days meticulously, highlight- fic rule by jay-walking and even ing the places we could not miss; learning to negotiate their move- The Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Pal- ments with oncoming vehicles. I ace, the Ayasofya and the Grand particularly enjoyed the feeling of Bazaar topped the list. once again ‘owning the road’, as Although Turkey is a member some pedestrians do back in Bhu- of the EU, it is not like other Eu- tan, where the vehicles are com- ropean destinations. It has many pelled to stop to give way to pigeons, elements to it, which reminded dogs, the occasional stray cow, and me of how much more “Eastern” the unperturbed pedestrian. After it was, than “Western”. Europeans Den Haag- Dutch for Hague- I will don’t haggle, and they follow traf- unashamedly admit, that while the fic rules. The Istanbul traffic on un-abiding of traffic rules in Bhutan the other hand, had me thinking and India can drive me nuts some- of home - drivers with no respect times, in Istanbul I found myself at for traffic rules and people run- home and realizing I had missed

My European friends were frazzled and disoriented by the blaring horns. But to me it seemed like the office hour rush along Musicians at Taksim Square Norzin Lam had arrived

30 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 this craziness in Europe. For me many foreigners, what Taktsang is tanbul has many other mosques, Istanbul, to put it straight, was like to the world, its most prominent The gate small and big allowing you to eas- “Delhi, 50 years from now”- the peo- landmark that defines Bhutan. dividing two ily confuse yourself and have you ple looked the same and the traffic Given our limited leisure time it continents figuring out which is the real Blue behaved the same. The world is re- was nice that this monument was Mosque. We found ourselves pos- ally such a small place that people only a ten-minute-walk from our ing in front of a few thinking it was are the same everywhere. hotel. A part of the six minarets “The Blue Mosque” only to be told The Sultan Ahmed Mosque and eight domes could be seen that it was the wrong one. called Sultanahmet Camii, in Tur- partially from the hotel seeming The Blue Mosque was built key is more famously known as the to tease us with its partial view. In from 1609 to 1616 – probably Blue Mosque because of its blue the walk leading up to it we passed around the time Semtokha Dzong interior tiles. The Mosque is to several other smaller mosques; Is- was being built – by Sultan Ahmed

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 31 travel

With friends The writer (in the middle) with her classmates

What has made the Mosque such the view was absolutely breathtak- an attractive piece is probably be- ing, the walls were painted with a cause of its architectural features. myriad of colors and the ceilings It sees the coming together of dis- had motifs intricately designed tinct features from the centuries with ceramic tiles of which there old Ottoman and the Byzantine are 20,000, all handmade. The ceil- Church styles. ings of the prayer area and the main For students like us it was good dome were awe inspiring- it brought Our largely chatty to know that the entrance to this about an inner peace akin to what I magnificent monument was free. always experience when visiting our group became quiet At the entrance we were provided very own Punakha Dzong. as we walked by with a plastic bag to carry our shoes Our largely chatty group be- and since we were women we were came quiet as we walked by the told to cover our heads with a blue walls adorned by 50 different tulip shawl which they provided. Inside, designs. We walked around im-

32 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 mersing in the centuries old his- Circumcision Room. Built in the dom’ was not successful since we tory of each tulip. It felt good to be 15th century, the Palace was the delight had to wait a long time to get in, away from the traffic, the bustling residence for the Ottoman Empire One cannot miss which we could not afford given crowd and I found myself relishing for nearly 400 years. As a muse- the sweet stalls time constraints. It was a pity walk- the coolness and respite from cam- um today, the Palace attracts thou- ing away from the once basilica, era toting tourists; myself included. sands of visitors each day, all eager then a mosque and now a muse- Our second highlight was the to see the valuable collections of um without getting to explore its Topkapi Palace, which is a short jewelry , weapons, porcelain and beauty. But our spirits were lifted stroll away from the Blue Mosque. other treasures that are on display. as we entered the Grand Bazaar, The Palace is enormous and it It is also a UNESCO World Herit- one of the largest covered markets would have taken us the whole age Site and is being described as in the world. The Grand bazaar is day to just cover it; what with its one of the best examples of palaces like a miniature city in itself – bus- 4 courtyards, numerous Gates, of the Ottomon period. tling with people, lights, noise and Kiosks, Privy Chambers, Harems, The trip to Hagia Sofhia- Agaso- the huge choice of great buys one Audience Halls, Gardens, and a fya, in Turkish meaning ‘Holy Wis-

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 33 travel

Bosphorus River at night

Since my trip was organized by our institute, I was saved the trouble of booking flights or scouring for cheap can find. I wouldn’t call the goods the boat ride- a Bhutanese at the hotels. delights– those sweet dishes can be cheap since it depends on how cusp of two continents, giving travel a taste of heaven for people with well you negotiate with shopkeep- me a weird feeling of being eve- details a sweet tooth like me. We would ers. I loved this place and if given rywhere and nowhere at the same normally end the tiring day with a choice, I would have spent the time. Equally, my two Colombian a glass of raki – an alcoholic bev- whole day here. This to me, once friends, who had never been to erage that when mixed with water By Flight again showed how more Asian Asia, were absolutely thrilled hav- From The Hague turns milky white in color. to Istanbul, tran- than European, Turkey was. The ing set foot on the Asian continent sit at Munich What I took from Istanbul are need to haggle convinced me even for the first time, even more so – Air Lufthansa memories of streets laden with more. My companions seemed to without the hassle of immigration goods, aroma of spices, sticky enjoy watching me do my “Asian” or visa formalities! baklava and old men sitting lei- thing, bargaining for an intricately Although we could not visit all surely while hookahs inside dark Stay decorated blue coloured hookah; the historical sites and many other Grand Onos. tiny shops. With all the haggling Centrally located this, I am sure, is an art in itself places, one thing worth mention- 20 minutes from skills I displayed, I am now the Blue Mosque and that must have existed from even ing is the Turkish Cuisine. It is 15 minutes from happy owner of a beautiful blue before the days the Blue Mosque as important as its history. In our Grand Bazaar. hookah, even though it will never Price: € 200-300 came into existence. seven days there we made it a point per person per be put to use – after all I am back in The boat ride across Bosphorus to have something Turkish every night. the land of Tobacco ban. Although River is something one should day. We always started off with it sits on my mantelpiece, it still also take. It is not as tumultuous Turkish tea, served black with yu- serves a purpose, a reminder of a as our mountain rivers but more murtali ekmek or French toast, Climate wonderful trip with my friends to a meandering and serene. The river spicy Turkish sausage and bread. Best time to part of the world that I would have Travel - March & is hugely significant because it lit- The exciting array of dishes ranged April, October & otherwise never ventured over to November – since erally divides Turkey from Europe, from soups, pilafs, doner kebabs, the temperature on my own. making it the only country to reside with amazing mezze and breads is ideal – neither too hot or cold. on two continents. I felt special on followed by the ‘infamous’ Turkish

34 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 Fiction A Death

Karma Singye Dorji

There was a muffled curse, followed by the report of a gun

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 35 Fiction vv HE RAVEN shot across the sky like a tiny black missile. In the valley Yana Expeditions far below, the small military transport vehicle with the gold snowflake insignia of the Royal Guards careened in and out of the looping road in the mountains, spilling gravel as it went. When it came to a sudden skidding stop, the thick brown cloud of dust caught up with the open transport car, Tmaking the uniformed men cough and flail their arms about in front of them. There were four of them: A senior officer, a Colonel by rank, sitting in the backseat flanked by two junior officers on either side of him. The Colonel was unarmed but the other two officers wore standard-issue holstered handguns. The driver in the front was impassive in the way that military men are trained not to betray emotion. “You may step out of the car now, sir,” said the officer to the left of the Colonel as the man to the Colonel’s right hurriedly swung a leg over the side of the car and stepped out. The Colonel looked over at the man who had spoken, making a mental note of the insolence in his voice. Then, he reached over to the back of the car to grab his water canteen, and heaved over to the side of the vehicle and got out. The officer who had spoken wore the three small flowers of a captain’s rank on the shoulders of his uniform. He stepped out quickly as well, keeping his eyes on the Colonel’s back. Then, coming around the back of the open car he hissed something fiercely at the other officer. The Colonel, nearing the bushes, made out a few words carried on the wind. “…It’s in the orders Lieutenant.” “But, sir…” “…No if, and, or buts, Lieut…” Minutes later there were the splashing wet sounds of the kind that can only be made by a man who has held his bladder too long. The two officers exchanged a look. Then, the younger of the two officers drew his weapon out of its holstered case and walked with quick, decisive steps toward the bushes, parted the tall clump of ferns, and disappeared. There was a muffled curse, followed by the report of a gun. Overhead, the raven circled the sky and shrieked.

he Colonel never forgot the day when, so many years earlier, when he was still a Tboy, his father had taken him to see the Amazing Spider-Woman at the traveling fair. Her eyes were black and kohl-lined and, on the middle of her forehead, she wore the traditional vermilion dot. The rest of her body was a grotesquely flabby ball, like large black overripe fruit. The big burlesque men with their glistening handlebar mustaches and oily exposed torsos heaved tall wooden planks onto the stage and stood supporting them, their muscles heaving with the effort. The turbaned ringmaster strode about the stage in front of the audience with a loud speaker shouting: “Come out, come out, and meet your admirers!” Suddenly, as a shiver ran through the crowd, the bottom edge of the bright floral curtains closing off the back of the stage moved tremulously and the low, squat, ugly catastrophe of a living thing scurried across the dirty wood floor of the makeshift stage and, eyes averted, scampered quickly up the wooden walls supported by the men with the bicycle handlebar mustaches. At the top she, it, or whatever it was, turned around and, balancing unsteadily, stared at the crowd with large, liquid terrified eyes. Next to him the Colonel’s father shifted, spat at the ground, and snarled: “Nothing crueler than the cruelty of the low-born!” Address: P.O. Box # 1211, Lhaki After that, his father took him to see the two-wheeled riders who entered a tall cone- Lam 1-11, Thimphu: Bhutan. shaped tower, another rickety wooden structure held together only by ropes. Revving Phone: +975-233-2329 | +975- the engines of their machines, the riders roared off at a thunderous pace whipping 233-9779 | +975-233-9262aCell: round and round within the confines of the giant cone, spiraling up to the very top +975-1711-9779 until they were right under the noses of the gaping bystanders and screaming fans Fax: +975-233-1583 standing on the wide viewing platform. The riders never fell, as if the wheels had been

36 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 magnetized, as if, like the Spider Woman, they, too, had been cursed by the ability to “Oh, I felt like a defy gravity. trapped sparrow The Colonel’s father took him next to the Candy Man. The old man was frail and wore closed in by round wire-rimmed eyeglasses with nothing about him to impress a young boy of 11. But the thick dirty strap around the old man’s neck supported a square glass box those gray and of otherworldly delights. It was filled to the brim with pink, purple, white and green heavy walls” cotton candy puffs that looked like large indented magical fruit. To the end of his days the Colonel would remember the sweet musical sounds of the old man’s tiny brass bell, the calling card he used to announce himself to the townspeople. The Candy Man was appropriately reverent to the Colonel’s father. He dipped his head respectfully, joined palms at the chest and handed the boy many generous puffs of the multi- colored candy in paper cones deftly rolled from old newsprint. When the father tried to pay him for the treat, the Candy Man held out his hand, and palm facing out, shook it vigorously from side to side as if trying to shake his fingers off. “No, no, Excellency,” he said. “May the gods themselves protect you! This is a gift for the boy. May he too have a long and illustrious career, just like his father!” All about the fairground the people of the border regions—the plantation owners, tradesmen, factory managers, shopkeepers, woodcutters, workers and people of the surrounding colonies—milled about happily, excited by the colorful circus in their midst. They loved this new Governor, the Colonel’s father. He was so much more fun than the dour old man they had endured for several long decades in the past. That man was a religious fanatic, and each year his only contribution to the annual social calendar had been the commissioning of steadily droned Repentance Prayers blared over all the emergency loudspeakers so there could be no escape from the drudgery of self-flagellation.

s was the custom in those days, the Colonel’s father ripped him out from his Amother’s womb and cut the umbilical cord himself with a rough knife before hanging the birth sac from the drooping branches of a weeping willow tree—an offering to The Raven for sparing the newborn’s life. In those early years, the Governor and the Amateur Interpreter of Dreams—a name the Governor gave his wife for her habit of searching for hidden meanings in her dreams—lived in a heavy gray fortress of a house. It was a place reviled by the Amateur Interpreter of Dreams but the Governor loved it because it was a symbol of his status as a rising star in the Royal Government of the Colonies. “Oh, I felt like a trapped sparrow closed in by those gray and heavy walls,” she told the Colonel many years later. “The windows, though they let in the light, only served to heighten my loneliness.” This meant that when the Governor was off on official business, the Amateur Interpreter of Dreams, spent many long hours wishing she was back in her village, standing under the tall rafters of her ancestral home, beneath the sheltering roof of long sun-darkened shingles cut and laid by her great great grandfather’s hand, under the rough trusses hewn by other long dead forebears. She wanted to return home where, in the perfect stillness of a summer afternoon, she could sense the first stirrings of a breeze lifting off the cool, milk-white coil of the river roiling far below in the deepest part of valley. Closing her eyes within the confines of the gray life-negating fortress she could almost imagine herself back home, feeling the breeze rising playfully up the valley before moving through the emerald stalks of grain swooning and swaying as if to the music of unseen gamelans. She imagined the breeze rustling through the papery leaves of the wild Bagoo tree and entering her ancestral home like a whispering lover caressing her pale upturned face, teasing her silky black pageboy hair.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 37 Sangay Thinley Dorji is a member of the Executive Committee of the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa. He is currently dividing time between teaching at Royal Thimphu College and his own enterprise.

democracy why people should vote Sangay Thinley Dorji contested for the National Assembly Elections in 2008 from Gasa

ack in 2008 I was 26 years old and one of the youngest candidates to partake in the political transition of Bhutan. It was with much passion and dedication that I got involved in the process and I urged people I met both in urban and rural Bhutan to take an interest and get involved by learning about what was happening. BI was often met with a lackadaisical attitude; “politicking isn’t allowed in schools and institutions,” or “if you are a civil servant you need to be apolitical.” More often than not, the response in urban centers was straightforward - “we’re not interested in politics.” Their answers seemed to be based on the notion borrowed from their neighbors that political systems, political parties and politicians in general was something corrupt and dirty. In 2008, I spent much time talking particularly to the youth, focusing on the need to exercise their constitutional right and vote in order that we ensured a successful democracy. Five years later, and the second parliamentary elections are just around the corner. In all these years since 2008, my thoughts have revolved around the importance of people, particularly the youth, educating and making themselves aware of politics in Bhutan. One reason is that as a college lecturer teaching Law I have realized that people, both young and old, can be empowered to make the right choices and decisions in determining their future in this country. I tell my students, law governs pretty much everything we do in our lives. Every aspect of decisions we make under the notion of free will is actually a decision we make within the boundaries drawn and established by some form of law. If we are informed and educated in how this process works then we

38 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 can know when law and policy makers/ legislators are not doing a thorough job. We are in a position to question, point out their mistakes and seek answers.

I have been trying to identify and see a clear path to how all of this relates to us and how it affects us. Simply put, politics is the system through which we, the people, elect in our representatives to enact and amend laws to govern and establish the parameters within which our society, our communities, our households and us individuals function. A big challenge for many of us - not only the youth - lies in overcoming our notion that engaging in politics and politicking is supporting one party and all its policies, because we know the people in that party or some members are friends. We need to strive for attaining a much wider scope for the term politics and politicking. We need to look at the character of the candidate, see whether his/her political ideology is in sync with ours; whether he/she is capable of leading and delivering on what is expected of him/ her. We need to see a situation as simple as two friends discussing how the current healthcare system/ education system etc. works, we have to educate ourselves on the law and policies that impact our lives, make a decision and take action Many people I have through the cast of votes to play our part in the process conversed with have of attempting to get who stated their doubts we feel or which party will represent our opinions and over returning to positions best at the national their villages to level. As difficult as it may cast their vote be to see one’s choice lose to another or in my case (because I contested) to lose to another, at the end of the day this is something we must accept with dignity because this is exactly how democracy operates. It does not mean that we turn against our opponent by ruining reputation or smearing public image. But, we continue to engage by ensuring that he/she does his/her job well as you would have. As much as one may want one’s choice of party or leader it eventually operates on the premise of the rule of majority, indicative of the fact that the majority apparently did not share your choice. As 2013 comes round the corner, my immediate concern is the voter turnout. Many people I have conversed with have stated their doubts over returning to their villages to cast their vote for the elections over the inconvenience and costs incurred. While I urge everyone to go and vote for their informed choice, I also hope that the Election Commission will see ways of ensuring convenience that every Bhutanese, no matter where they live, can cast their vote to make a difference. To each and every Bhutanese who will vote in 2013, I urge you to ask yourselves, what is my politics? What kind of future do I want for the next generation and for Bhutan? And with that I urge you to go and cast that vote no matter how far you have to travel or what sacrifices you have to make. For that one vote can make all the difference in determining the hopes and dreams you have for the future of your country.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 39 women & law

Does the 1,300 cases of domestic violence registered between 2005 to 2011 indicate that this may just be a tip of the iceberg? Tashi Wangmo asks

hen Aum Sonam mar- ried she never imagined that her days would be Wnumbered. She was es- sentially signing her own death sentence. As the years passed and she started a family with the man whom she had chosen, her life was confined to nothing but psychological and physical abuse. Yet, she couldn’t leave him. She had become a prisoner to her own life and often wondered if there The law of was ever a way out. She was too embarrassed to let her friends and relatives know of the horrors she endured. In November of last year, contention – Sonam finally saw the end to her godforsaken life: She was stabbed to death by the man whom she had loved and trusted enough to have Bhutan and her children with. For many women like Sonam, who suffered and succumbed to such abuses at the hands of the Domestic their husbands (and also men who may have at their hands of their wives) there was really no hope. There was no where or no Violence Bill one they could turn to for justice

40 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 for all the wrongs inflicted upon women said their husbands had them because this was not seen the ‘right’ to beat them. This as a crime and there were no came as an unpleasant shock laws in place for such violence to many Bhutanese who never inflicted in their homes by their imagined that their women, who own loved ones. have always had the freedom to Bimal Rai felt like Meanwhile Bimal Rai (name annul/divorce their husbands the unluckiest man changed) from Sarpang felt that with no stigmas attached, would he was the unluckiest man to be think this way. to be alive when he alive when he constantly suffered So does the 1,300 cases of beatings at the hands of his wife. domestic violence registered constantly suffered Many a time in the process between 2005 to 2011 indicate beatings at the of trying to defend himself he that this may just be a tip of the pushed and shoved her away iceberg? hands of his wife. causing her to get accidentally It was against this backdrop hurt. Before he knew it she had that when few male lawmakers complained to RENEW. “But thought Bhutanese women could nese lawmakers from the realities upon investigating the case, misuse the Domestic Violence of Bhutan’s social problems. They the staff at RENEW believed Prevention Bill, a public outcry, said that the Bill ignored the me when I told them that I was displayed through a Facebook protection of men as victims of beaten first and then I retali- signature campaign followed. violence; that there were already ated,” he said. When she filed Housewives, working women too many laws in the country; for divorce following the report, and officials filled up the other- and that if the Bill was passed he felt that his world had come wise empty visitors gallery of the it would increase divorce cases to an end. He clearly cared about National Assembly to witness the and family problems. What was her still. But Bimal Rai should final discussion on the Bill on even more astounding was the consider himself lucky that his June 6, after much lobbying on Health Minister Lyonpo Zangley fate didn’t wind up like the man social media. Dukpa’s comment in parliament who was murdered by his wife in Earlier, the Bill was intro- that having many laws would Hongtsho Thimphu. According duced by the Education Minister make it harder for implementa- to the WCPU she is still serving Lyonpo Thakur Singh Powdyel tion. Mongar MP Sonam Penjore her sentence for “involuntary who is also the chairperson of the supported the Health Minister manslaughter.” National Commission for Women saying implementation of the Bill But for the many victims and Children. Embarrassingly a would incur huge costs on the who are out there, or relatives of majority of MPs, who are men, government. What he failed to victims, the latest developments expressed their reservations and realize was the huge social costs in this area; the introduction of opposed the bill saying it was not Bhutan has had to bear and will a new Bill that makes Domestic gender sensitive and women- bear if such a bill was not intro- Violence a crime, there is now centric. duced. Many of Bhutan’s youth hope that come 2013 they can “Men are also victims of such problems,particularly violence prosecute such violators. violence, but non-governmental today could be a result of direct Bhutan’s biggest study on organizations aren’t protecting exposure to domestic violence in women and children released them,” the Trongsa MP Rinchen their childhoods. Officials can last year revealed that this was Dorji said, not understanding continue to blame television, it a shocking trend. Not only that, that a “Domestic” violence bill could be partially responsible for but from the 15,000 households served victims of both genders. it, but it would take much more surveyed by the National Sta- It was an astonishing revela- than television for young people tistical Bureau in 2010 68.4% tion of how far removed Bhuta-

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 41 women &law

to lash out simply because of that. as a huge relief to the women It is a result of much more pain when the Bill was unanimously and suffering inflicted upon their endorsed with forty members emotions as children – divorce, voting in favor of the Bill, one neglect and lack of acknowledge- against it and one abstaining. The ment from parents, physical Bill is to be further deliberated in In a male dominated abuse and exposure to domestic the National Council during the parliament it is tricky violence - that is perhaps a larger winter session and hopefully by cause. Scientifically conducted the beginning of 2013 it will be for women related issues research and studies have proven formally adopted as an Act in the that children who are exposed to Constitution of Bhutan. The gen- to be acknowledged, violence in early childhood are eral feeling is that the National accepted and approved. more prone to committing it. Council will pass the Bill without Not only that it impairs learning, any objection. development and destroys their chances of living in a safe and What does the secure environment. (https:// Bill mean? the victims endured their suf- www.srcd.org/documents/publi- fering in silence. They not only cations/SPR/spr9-3.pdf children Will it reduce instances of do- didn’t know that this was a crime who witness domestic violence mestic violence? No single Act – because it was not, at least in report) or a law exists in a vacuum. The our society – but there were also The few women MPs vehe- public and society at large must no support centers to help them mently defended the Bill citing work with the government and see a way out of it. They were that the Bill was gender neutral relevant organizations to advocate also afraid of the social stigma and in the interest of both men and change the attitudes and of going to the police for being and women. MP Karma Lhamo behaviors that has been commit- battered by a member of the said that the word ‘woman’ was ting and condoning domestic family. However, it was only after mentioned only once in the pre- violence in our society. As is the the establishment of such centers amble of the Bill whereas in the case everywhere, most people are that few of the victims of domes- other clauses it said ‘the victim’ not aware of their basic rights tic violence have started coming or ‘he/she’. MP Leela Pradhan and thus become victims. Not forward to seek counseling and reminded the House that the only that domestic violence also support. Bill is gender-neutral and for all has great psychological impact on victims of domestic violence, be the victim. Because of the con- Breaking the ‘sacred it man or woman. Such discus- tinued abuse they not only live in sions were revelatory of how fear, but they eventually succumb bond of marriage’ much education was indeed to the repeated accusations that Sonam Lhamo, a divorcee needed of educated male officials they deserve it. For instance, up from a remote village in Mongar who had been elected to office until a few years ago before the is one of the few who has raised based on their understanding to establishment of civil society her voice against domestic vio- make social changes in society organization RENEW (Respect, lence and stood up for women’s to understand this important Educate, Nurture and Empower rights in her village. Physically issue. It also showed that in a Women) and the NCWC (Nation- and verbally abused by her hus- male dominated parliament it is al Commission for Women and band for more than three years, difficult and tricky for women Children) and the Women and Sonam finally broke the ‘sacred related issues/bill to be acknowl- Child Protection Unit (WCPU) at bond of marriage’ as she puts it, edged, accepted and approved. the police stations, the incidences and filed for divorce at the district And so after much objection of domestic violence reported to court in Mongar. She says that from the male legislators it came the police was very low because wife battery is rampant in her vil-

42 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 lage with almost all women being and speak against crime. RENEW caution that these are only the beaten up by their husbands on a believes that gender-based vio- reported figures and that there regular basis. “Wife beating is a lence stands in the way of achiev- may actually be many more unre- normal and regular affair in the ing gender equality. It campaigns ported cases. houses,” said the 24-year-old. She to prevent and eradicate Gender The figures tell the story is one of the few who could not Based Violence (GBV) in pursuit It is very disturbing to note take the beatings and complained of its mission to better the lives women feel that the violence against her husband at the of victims and survivors of such inflicted on them is justified district police station. Instead of violence. They also help integrate in instances when they neglect applauding her decision, people the victims back into their com- the children (54.5%), or if they in the village now consider her munities as independent, socially demonstrate their autonomy, e.g. a ‘bad woman’ who cannot even and economically productive go out without informing their take the beatings of her own hus- members of society. RENEW husbands (39.7%) or argue with band and brought about shame provides shelter, counseling, legal them (39.5%). Moreover, one and disgrace not only upon her- counseling and reintegration fourth of the women believe that self but the entire village. services for victims. their partner has a right to hit or Born and brought up in the According to statistics from beat them if they refuse to have village with no education, Sonam RENEW and local police stations, sex with him or if they burn the represents the typical vulner- of the 1,300 odd cases of domes- food. Dr Menakshi of RENEW able village girl further exploited tic violence registered from 2005 said that there should be “zero by the violence inflicted on her. to 2011, 29 were related to the tolerance to domestic violence” It is imperative that education, victims. and that there should be no sensitization and awareness be Between 2008 and 2011, excuse for any kind of violence in created in all the villages and RENEW alone registered 1,007 the household. communities of Bhutan on do- victims with 836 constituting The study reveals that the mestic violence so that perpetra- new clients and 69 repeat clients. presence and acceptance of tors will refrain and victims will From January 2012 till July domestic violence existed mostly know their rights. However, for 2012, RENEW saw 213 cases of among those living in the rural Sonam, it was her awareness domestic violence and the WCPU areas with little or no education. of her constitutional rights that in Thimphu registered 119 cases. Officials from the RENEW and led her to understand this was However, both organizations the WCPU in Thimphu said wrong. She was just someone that didn’t deserve to be beaten by her husband. “I have the right to lead a happy and peaceful life,” she said. After the divorce and with a five-year-old son to take care of, Sonam trained for a few months at the Weaving Center in Mongar and is now back in her village making enough money to feed herself and her child from the sale of her weaving products.

Voicing out RENEW, etablished in 2004, was one of the leading organizations encouraging women to come out women &law

Seven men in 2011, and two men in 2012 complained of being abused by their wives

tions as to how to go about while dealing with domestic violence cases, even though it was nothing different from what they were previously doing. While the majority of the victims are women, there are also men who have complained to the RENEW and WCPU of being abused by their wives. At RE- NEW, between 2008 to 2011, 18 men registered with the center, however, only one complained of being physically abused by his wife. The WCPU reported that that educated women and those want to undergo the legal hassles seven men in 2011, and two men from affluent families were if forwarded to the district court. in 2012 complained of being reluctant to admit or confess to Most of the time, the WCPU abused by their wives. Their violence inflicted on them by counseled, negotiated/compro- other complaints were that their their partners/husbands because mised in between and warned the wives were alcoholic, neglecting of their reputation in the society perpetrators of the legal implica- household chores, gambling and and stigma and embarrassment tions for repeated complaints. having extra marital affairs. for exposing the darker side of If a person brought a complaint their lives to the public. Captain for the third time the case was Those who Wangdi of the WCPU said that directly forwarded to the court do not complain 90% of the domestic occurred without any negotiations. Chimmi Dolma from Paro has in the poorer sections of the Captain Wangdi said that been abused physically by her society with alcohol as the main prior to the Domestic Violence husband. He has neglected the cause for violence. He said that in Prevention Bill, WCPU was family and also had extramarital most cases husbands under the acting on their own risk without affairs. “But I will never go and influence of alcohol beat up their any directives when they compro- complain against my husband wives. However, again 90% of the mised and settled the case at the because he has threatened to kill cases registered were willing to Unit. However now that the Bill me and our children if I do so,” compromise as both the parties has come into existence he said she said. (victim and perpetrator did not that there were clear instruc-

44 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 Chimmi runs a small clothing aspect of their psychological and a person by another person with shop in the outskirts of Paro town physical wellbeing. whom that person is, or has been and has three school going chil- Dechen Om, a housewife, in a domestic relationship’, and, dren. Her husband is a graduate mother and a corporate employee in this context, ’violence means working in one of the travel agen- realized that whenever she quar- any act, omission, or behavior cies in Paro and earns a good sal- reled with her husband in front towards a person which results ary. However, for Chimmi and her of their daughter, the otherwise in physical, sexual, emotional or children, they go without seeing talkative and hyper active 6 year economic abuse’. Will abusers him for days on end. “He comes old girl would remain silent and now refrain from committing home as and when he wishes and withdrawn for the whole day. violent acts to their partners and when I ask him about where he ‘It happened a couple of times will victims know their rights has been or about his work he and initially I didn’t relate her and stand up to their abusers? will start the barrage of harsh and with-drawl to our quarrels, until However, one must take into obscene words, slapping and beat- I overheard her telling her friend consideration that behaviors and ing me in front of the children that she gets very scared when attitudes don’t change overnight, that I have now learnt to keep her parents shout at each other but hopefully the passing of the shut and never speak a word to and fears that they might kill her,’ Bill will most certainly and posi- him.” For Chimmi divorce is not said Dechen. She said that they tively make a potential perpetra- an option and her worst fear is he made sure they quarreled less tor think twice before hitting his/ might leave the family and marry and never in front their daughter. her partner. “Domestic violence his girlfriend. A study on drug abuse and cases are an everyday affair at the domestic violence in Bhutan, Unit and we have been receiving When children conducted by the vice-principal at least one case every day since become victims of Jigme Namgyel Lower Second- the establishment of the Unit in ary School in Thimphu, reports May, 2007,” said Captain Wangdi. Domestic violence in the home that 52.7 percent of high school As the Bill clearly states, it is impacts all members of the fam- students are exposed to drug with the government and con- ily, and while it is bad enough abuse and domestic violence. Out cerned civil society organizations for the person being abused, the of the 150 respondents, 79 stu- responsible to enact on the Bill children suffer equally. The in- dents were exposed to drug abuse and make it fully functional, effec- nocent bystanders who watch the and domestic violence, with, 51 tive and doable. Various sections destruction of love and security percent boys and 28 percent girls. of the society are now concerned in the only place that should be 61 percent of the families of the about the effective implementa- affording it to them are often selected students did not want to tion of programmes and activi- affected beyond repair. Interna- talk on the issues of drugs, alco- ties and preventive measures to tional studies have shown that hol and violence with their combat domestic violence. children witnessing domestic The study says that girls are With the introduction of this violence (they need not neces- exposed to drugs mostly because bill another legislation was born sarily be the direct victims) have of their abusing male friends in the country. Some laws, like their whole outlook on life and and family members. Some girls the DV Bill, are essential to the relationships change for the turned to alcohol or drugs as a overall wellbeing of our soci- worse. The trauma and pain of way to cope with violence in their ety. As the Education Minister witnessing violence may not be lives. The study, though conduct- Lyonpo Thakur Singh Powdyel visible. It affects every aspect of ed on a small scale revealed that rightly said while introducing the their social and emotional devel- there is a significant relationship Bill, the Bill would give legal teeth opment. It leads to problems in between drug abuse, domestic to all men, women and children school, problems in their own violence and educational attain- to protect themselves from such relationships and how they deal ment. As per the Bill, domestic violence. with others, and hampers every violence means “violence against

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 45 exclusive book excerpt

oubtful claims to sover- eignty or suzerainty by neighbors India, China Till the 1960s, the official, economic and DmilitaryH capacitiesow of the Bhuta- social media nese leadership to enhance the and Bhutan kingdom’s international relations were severely limited by the coun- try’s geographical isolation, lack Those who wanted Bhutan to move closer to of modernhelps, communications and hurts us? China where a minority, exclusive excerpts general economic backwardness. As it is, Bhutan being a landlocked from Lyonpo Om Pradhan’s new book. country, with enormous moun- tainous barriers, was far away “There were strong views among some prominent members of from mainstream international the then Bhutanese leadership that Bhutan should move closer commercial and political activities. to China rather than India, especially from ethnic and cultural Its leadership and officials may points of view. These persons, who fortunately were in the small also have been unaware or uncon- minority, failed to comprehend that when it comes to safeguarding cerned with the world beyond the a nation’s sovereignty and independence, ethnicity or racial policies immediate border regions. They and approaches may not prove to be in one’s true interests,” seem to have had no need to ven- In exclusive excerpts from his upcoming book ‘Roar of the by ture beyond relations with border- the Thunder Dragon’ Druk Holding and Investments Chairman ing countries, and that too, only Lyonpo Om Pradhan, who as a senior diplomat led Bhutan’s when its own interests mattered. first border talks with China in the summer of 1984. He tells There was almost a complete about how Bhutan cautiously shaped its foreign policy. absence of all forms of communi- cations starting with motor roads, telephones and news media. Even for communications within the country this was possible to some extent only from 1956-57 onwards when wireless sets powered by The first was the fear generators run on imported petro- leum carried on human or animal of China and the backs to various centers, began to replace mail runners. possibility of this giant Motor roads were constructed neighbor compromising into the interior areas of Bhutan from the Indian border from 1961 Bhutanese sovereignty onwards. Nationwide and viable telephone services were possible only when the Japanese assisted Bhutan with satellite and digital hardly be termed functional or Cover jacket communications as late as the modern, and even then not avail- The Roar of the able for private use. Up to 1985, 1980s. The earlier system set up Thunder Dragon, in a tardy fashion was only to meet 256 pages the Bhutan embassy in Delhi had basic official needs after develop- to communicate with Thimphu by ment plans were begun and could wireless, and this communication

46 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 After the 1962 Sino-Indian war lyonpo om over their boundaries, China may They will have ten thousand pradhan have become much more amena- representing pounds divided amongst them. Bhutan at the ble and enthusiastic in giving rec- Un ognition to Bhutanese sovereignty How social media To be sure it indeed, they will if only to compromise the 1949 be sure of doing well. Indo-Bhutan Treaty and India’s foothold in the kingdom. At the Tharshi Dorji writes same time, India may also have been more forthcoming in recog- helps, hurts us? nizing and giving more substance in its relations to Bhutanese sover- eignty. There was therefore some advantage in Bhutan’s geopolitical situation in strengthening its sov- ereignty. A more substantive relationship with the Chinese at the time would was extended to the Permanent even absurd today, could not be have been inconceivable for Bhu- Mission of Bhutan to the United easily ruled out and had to figure tan. Given the Chinese threats and Nations in New York through “tel- in the strategies followed by Bhu- its announced views of the Hima- ex” by the Delhi embassy. As the tan’s leaders. layan kingdoms, the absorption of Bhutanese Ambassador in New The first was the fear of China Bhutan into Tibet, and therefore, Delhi in 1985, the author recalls and the possibility of this giant China, loomed as a fearful possi- informing Thimphu about Mrs. neighbor compromising Bhuta- bility. The Cultural Revolution of Indira Gandhi’s tragic assassina- nese sovereignty. In 1910, when Chairman Mao Zedong would have tion through the embassy’s wire- China intervened in Tibet it de- destroyed all of Bhutan’s traditions less facility as phone calls were not clared that the Himalayan region and the young monarchy. Bhutan possible. including Bhutan, Sikkim, Nepal would have no longer existed as a Radio broadcasting began in and Ladakh were parts of China. distinct cultural and political en- the country in 1973 as a “youth This fear of China could be said to tity. While considering this pos- broadcasting” service through the have manifested in the Treaty of sible relation with China in the personal initiative of Karma Ten- Sinchula with the British, which early 1960s it should be remem- zing, a graduate from the United essentially made Bhutan a “pro- bered that this was not mere con- States and an officer of the Minis- tectorate” of Britain. Henceforth, jecture. There were strong views try of Trade, Industries and Forests Bhutan’s relations with the outside among some prominent members who seemed to do it out of sheer world would be conducted on the of the then Bhutanese leadership nationalistic and patriotic feelings. “advice” of Britain, and after the that Bhutan should move closer to A few years later the government 1949 treaty, by independent India. China rather than India, especially converted this service to a national The concerns over Chinese inten- from ethnic and cultural points of one and named it Bhutan Broad- tions were again enhanced after the view. These persons, who fortu- casting Service (BBS). Bhutan also Chinese army intervention of Tibet nately were in the small minority, did away with its own restrictions in 1951 and the violent suppression failed to comprehend that when it on satellite television and the In- of the Tibetan revolt in 1959 after comes to safeguarding a nation’s ternet as late as 1999. which Bhutanese-Tibetan relations sovereignty and independence, During and prior to the rule of of the past effectively came to an ethnicity or racial policies and ap- the third King there were certain end. Bhutan closed its borders and proaches may not prove to be in historical legacies and threats, avoided doing anything to antago- one’s true interests. One needs to though considered distant and nize China. simply look at the histories of Asia,

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 47 violent and ominous character re- sulting in the fleeing of the Dalai Lama and thousands of Tibetans into India. The Chinese commu- nists of the times seemed to be in no mood to make any compro- mises on their claims over Tibet. At the same time they were bent upon integrating the Tibetan re- gion into the “motherland” by all means, including militarily. The Cultural Revolution in China at- tempted to achieve this through the destruction, and if this was not possible, the dilution of Tibet- an religion, culture, language, ge- ographical boundaries and demo- graphics. Thousands of Tibetans fled their homeland and scattered all over the Indian subcontinent and beyond to Europe, the United States and Canada. The Cultural Revolution resulted in the tragic destruction of Tibet’s ancient civilization that had for centuries Africa and Europe. The Indians and leaders and people with such influenced Bhutan and the Hima- and the Pakistanis, the Japanese notions should be simply ignored his majesty layan region including Mongolia and the Koreans, the Chinese and and not permitted to play any sig- the third druk and parts of China. The “it looks the Japanese, the Chinese and the nificant national role. A nation has gyalpo and her like me” revered statue of Guru Tibetans, the Chinese and the Tai- to base its international politics on majesty the Rimpoche in Samye, Tibet, was queen with j b also destroyed during this period. wanese, the Kuwaitis and the Ira- safeguarding its vital interests of pradhan, the qis, don’t really get along politically sovereignty, independence and se- author’s father The Tibetans expected support despite racial and cultural similari- curity–no matter with which entity from an international commu- ties. In the 21st century, Africa has or race or ethnicity its leadership nity that knew or cared very little faced history’s most serious prob- may have to deal with. In Bhutan’s about them or their struggle. The lems in Rwanda, Sudan, Nigeria, case this has been glaring. India, United States, through its Central Uganda and elsewhere. Again, if rather than Tibet or China, has Intelligence Agency (CIA), made Bhutanese consider themselves served Bhutan’s interest the best. some half-hearted attempts to closer to Tibetans, it should be provide training and arms to the remembered that the latter have Setting the stage Tibetan resistance movement but demonstrated attitudes of conde- for Indo-Bhutan as soon as they felt that their in- scension towards Bhutanese. So a terests were not threatened and one-sided approach will not suc- relations Tibet was of little importance to ceed. Therefore in national politics, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck as- them politically and economically, the urge to reach out to other peo- cended the throne in 1952 when they dropped even the token as- ples based on preconceived notions Bhutan, Tibet and the region as a sistance being provided. In fact, that ethnicity and race will better whole were going through trying the resistance put up by Tibetans serve one’s interests may not be times. In the north, the Chinese in- with CIA assistance may have the best of politics for a nation, tervention in Tibet had acquired a only helped to make the Chinese

48 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 reactions harsher. When US aid was so carried away by the idea of was abruptly cut off, the Tibetans friendship and cooperation that suffered more as a result. the term “Hindi Chini Bhai Bhai” Neither was Nehru’s India was coined. Nehru’s expectations in any mood to aid the Tibet- were shattered in 1962 when the Despite the 1949 Treaty ans militarily or in the United Chinese invaded parts of northern with Bhutan, the Nations. In fact, India initially India and disputed India’s concept inherited the British view that of the borders with China as inher- Government of India Tibet was an autonomous region ited from the British. under Chinese “suzerainty” as India, Bhutan and Nepal have to was unclear on how it opposed to “sovereignty”–a legal be nevertheless given the credit for should deal with Bhutan. position that British diplomats the help provided and the generos- had devised to avoid Chinese ity shown to the waves of Tibetan wrath but seemingly to show refugees. India has given a lot of some sympathy for Tibet’s cause. space for Tibetan refugees to sus- its territories like the North East India, of course, now fully recog- tain their religion and culture in Frontier Agency (NEFA)–later nizes the sovereignty of China Dharamshala and other parts of renamed Arunachal Pradesh by over Tibet, as does China regard- India. In the case of Bhutan, those Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of ing India’s Sikkim. From the Tibetans who wanted to integrate India, and Aksai Chin. The Indi- Indian perspective, Indian dip- into Bhutanese society found it an army which had just emerged lomats seemed to have had this easy in view of the ethnic and cul- from the partition of their coun- concept that India’s sphere of tural similarities. Officially Bhutan try and the grant of independence influence should be paramount could not afford to antagonize the by the British, was still not well south of the Himalayan range Chinese, and hence, had to curb all trained and equipped to meet a and that of China in the north. political activities of the Tibetans threat like that of Mao Zedong’s This was a colonial concept, but that were directed towards China. revolutionary China. the hangover may persist in New Internationally, Bhutan could say In the case of India’s relations Delhi. nothing about Tibet’s status even with Bhutan, Pandit Jawaharlal Prime Minister Jawaharlal if it wanted to, and politically it be- Nehru provided an unambigu- Nehru’s government in India came expedient to accept Chinese ous interpretation in his public after 1947 was in a dilemma on claims over Tibet. After all, where speech in Paro on September 23, how to react to the developments did Bhutan stand when powers like 1958. He declared: taking place on the yet-to-be de- the United States, the erstwhile “Some may think that since marcated borders of the Hima- Soviet Union, the United King- India is a great and powerful layas with China. Nehru seemed dom, India and all major nations country and Bhutan a small one, basically an idealist who believed acquiesced to the fait accompli in the former might wish to exercise that the Indians and Chinese, the face of China’s evolving global pressure on Bhutan. It is, there- the two great civilizations and economic and political clout. fore, essential that I make it clear peoples of Asia, and who had Despite the 1949 Treaty with to you that our only wish is that both emerged from the yoke of Bhutan, the Government of In- you should remain an independ- colonialism, could not afford any dia was unclear on how it should ent country, choosing your own rivalry. Now, as independent de- deal with Bhutan under the cir- way of life and taking the path of veloping countries he expected cumstances, especially with the progress according to your will. that both would concentrate on Chinese takeover of Tibet and At the same time, we two should socioeconomic development claims over the Himalayan re- live as friendly neighbors help- and deal with neighbors and gion. Besides Bhutan and Nepal ing each other. Freedom of both other countries on the basis of being a consideration, what was Bhutan and India should be safe- respect for each other’s sover- more important were the Chinese guarded so that none from out- eignty and national pride. He claims of what India considered side can do harm to it.”

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 49 book excerpt

This statement of Nehru’s has emphasizing when it could that proved to be enduring for Indo- this was an international right of Bhutan relations, and was quoted landlocked countries. At the same by Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan time, Nepal from time to time at- Singh during his visit to Bhutan in tempts to play off India and China Nepal has always May 2008. to its advantage, and which some- An outsider’s assessment of the times has backfired. It also refused tried to resist or thinking within the Indian leader- to accept any defense arrange- minimize India’s ship at least till now shows that ments with India vis-à-vis China India decided to accept Chinese and instead made attempts to im- influence claims north of the Himalayas, port Chinese weaponry including that is, in Tibet. As for Bhutan, ground to air missiles, which India Nepal and Sikkim, India felt that felt was not in keeping with the these should be under its sphere treaty relationship between the two of influence both in international countries. This attitude of Nepal relations and security considera- has resulted in constant friction in tions. The problem for India was Indo-Nepal relations, and at times and still seems to be, is that China has reached seritous proportions has not conceded to this view of when at one time Prime Minister the region, and neither have these Rajiv Gandhi even decided to close up by colonial surveyors as in the Himalayan entities all gone the down all transit routes and trade case of most boundaries in the sub- way India wanted. Indira Gan- between the two countries–report- continent. On the other hand, the dhi’s government managed to an- edly “to teach Nepal a lesson.” border discussions and the period- nex Sikkim by taking advantage of The most recent attempt by ic outcomes between Bhutan and the political upheaval in that coun- Nepal to play off India and Chi- China have rightly been subjected try begun by Kazi Lhendup Dorji na came when the newly elected to lengthy debates in the National Khangsarpa. Nevertheless, China Prime Minister, Pushpa Kamal Da- Assembly with displays of large de- put off recognizing this annexation hal, or more popularly known by tailed maps and sand models at the for a long time but has now given his revolutionary name, Prachan- Royal Bhutan Army headquarters in to the fait accompli in exchange da, snubbed New Delhi and made in Lungtenphu, Thimphu. For the of India’s consistent stand recog- his maiden visit to Beijing in Au- sake of mentioning it, the author nizing China’s sovereignty over gust 2008. When undertaking the had been made responsible by the Tibet. India avoided dealings with boundary negotiations with China, fourth King to lead the border ne- Taiwan and supported mainland these same principles seemed to gotiations with China for the first China’s seat at the United Nations find no place in negotiations with time in Bhutan’s history in the just as trade and economic links the Government of India. The summer of 1984. between the two giants grew, and Bhutanese cabinet in the 1970s the enhanced position and role of frequently questioned the Survey (Lyonpo Om Pradhan, who China on the world stage. This was Department as to how the bounda- served in the Royal Government of formally done during Prime Min- ries with India had been finalized Bhutan for 34 years, presently heads ister Vajpayee’s visit to China in without explicit cabinet consent let Druk Holding & Investments, as its 2003 and further confirmed when alone through deliberations and Chairman and lives in Thimphu, the Chinese presented India with approval in the National Assembly. Bhutan. The book was edited by revised maps showing Sikkim as a This discussion in the cabinet nev- Tashi P Wangdi of KMedia) part of India. er resulted in a satisfactory conclu- Nepal has always tried to resist sion except to be informed that the or minimize India’s influence basis would be the boundary line while still expecting all the trade finalized with the British, which and transit advantages in India, were most likely unilaterally drawn

50 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 what is your quirk Actor Namgay Tshering popularly known as Azha Namgay

age Entertainment

I am 55 and life is good. I love watching wrestling on television and Hindi movies. Most of the time I listen to Place Bhutanese music. I come from Punakha, it is much warmer there. But now I am based in Thimphu. First Movie Seday was my first movie and I have many fond memo- Life ries associated with it.. Life is a pendulum of joy and sorrow. But we have to find the right path, the middle path. Philosophy Prefer to walk alone, and walk tall. Career I am an artist, I like to paint and draw. But I would rather Style focus on my acting career now. Bhutanese fashion has come a long way, it is a part of one’s per- sonality. It is good that Bhutanese Food love wearing our traditional dress. As a Bhutanese I love ema datshi and rice. I dislike non vegetarian food. Quirk Small school children irritate me sometimes. They pass com- ments on how short I am.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 51 story

The Raven takes a look at the underdog of mushrooms

know your FOOD JILLI NAMCHU

Packed with anti-oxidants, the Jilli Namchu may not be what it seems from its slimy facade

Carbohydrates nutritional information Got a good source of energy. Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz) Proteins Nutritional composition, dried. Great source of fiber for digestion

Calories Vitamins Energy 293.1 kcal (1,226 kJ) Provide thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, vitamin B-6, folate and ascorbic acid. Fat 0.2 g Protein 10.6 g Minerals Calcium 375 mg (38%) Provide minerals like iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, zinc, copper, manganese Iron 185 mg (1423%) and selenium. Phosphorus 201 mg (29%)

52 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 adverse effects when taken in excess). Due to its gelatinous consistency, it was traditionally mixed with eye medicine and used as a salve to treat eye infec- tions. Some believe if boiled in milk or vinegar it can be used to treat throat ailments. It also acts as an astringent. However, due to its anti-fer- tility properties, women who are pregnant, lactating or intend- ing to conceive should avoid it. Though there is no extensive empirical study done, it is advised people taking prescribed medi- cine should not consume the mushroom as it might cause undesired drug interactions. Jilli Namchu is pale brown in colour, and grows about 6 cm across. It is best eaten young when it is gelatinous and pliant. As it grows older, the mushroom grows black and hard. However, it does not have a poisonous orget your sangay shamu, used against gastrointestinal dis- doppelganger like other mush- sisi shamu, or your jichu tress. Some believe Jilli Namchu, Good and room species. It is known to kangru, make way for the scientifically known as Auricular- affordable grow singly as well as in groups jilli namchu. It maybe ia, to be good for lung infections The mushroom is on old wood. Probably because it F good for cleans- slimy, rubbery and kind of taste- as they remove irritations and is abundantly available, it is not less, but if prepared in the right soothe the lung surface, as well ing the stomach and intestines valued by the Bhutanese mass. way - one way is with chilies and as used for treating conditions The nutritional value is the same cheese - it can be delicious. like hemoptysis (spitting blood) whether fresh or dry. Though the But that is not the only reason and diarrhea. It is a rich source mushroom lacks strong taste, it is why we recommend you should of antioxidant that has anticancer a perfect combination/accompa- be eating this fungi. It is be- and anti-inflammatory actions, niment for any vegetable or meat cause there is one thing you can which may help in many types of item as it absorbs the flavors of probably count on and didn’t chronic maladies. other foods. know about this underdog of Modern medicine is mak- mushrooms. The jilli namchu is ing further discoveries in its packed with significant me- properties. It has been shown to Popular names for dicinal properties that would do inhibit blood clots by obstruct- Auricularia every Bhutanese a load of good. ing the platelets. Ingesting small • Jews Ears - because of its Jilli Namchu, directly translates doses regularly has shown to be texture and size. as Cat’s Ears for its thin rub- therapeutic in preventing cardiac • Judas’ Ear - for the apostle bery texture, and is abundantly arrests and strokes. It has been who betrayed Jesus for 30 available in Bhutan most of the found to have anti-tumor, anti- pieces of silver. He hanged year. Known for its resilience to viral, anti-bacterial and anti-par- himself on an elder tree, the withstand temperatures below asitic effects and has also shown origin of the name (auricu- freezing point, this ‘wallflower’ some results in treating diabetes lar-judae means ‘the ear of of mushrooms is traditionally and jaundice. Although it can Judas’) recommended for hemorrhoids/ be quite bland, this mushroom • Black Fungus- described as piles in Chinese medicine. It also has therapeutic properties ‘an Indian with bones in has properties that cleanses both to lower cholesterol and triglyc- it’. stomach and intestines, and is erides (natural fat in tissue- has

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 53 REVIEW restaurant

himphu has more Momo joints, Indian restaurants, supposedly Chinese and local fast food restaurants than it can handle. On the other hand there are also higher-end restaurants that specialize in one, or a melange of world class (read expensive) cuisine but Tcosts what it does, mainly because they have the upper hand of being scarce. This is when discovering UPSTAIRS comes as, not only a relief but as a most sumptuously pleasant surprise. First thing you notice as you go UPSTAIRS is the lobby-lounge at the entrance, right next to the Illy coffee stand. The res- taurant inside has a warm and inviting atmosphere despite the large area the floor covers (seats approx. 180-200). The interior, decorated by a friend of the owners from Sikkim, is neither traditionally Bhutanese nor western but does make an impression. The space is immediately stylish but casual, and the music just loud enough to lift the spirits and low enough to have a conversation over. During the day the natural light streaming in through the wall to ceiling sliding doors (that open onto a long breezy deck) lends just the right amount of sunlight to brighten the inside of the restaurant. There is Upstairs also a large private or VIP dining room in the back available ***** for reservations. UPSTAIRS is the quarter portion of a grand, 2

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54 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 The Insalata Pasgaling, a very simple green and fresh salad, boiled eggs dressed in extra virgin olive oil, salt, and vinegar was perfection.

illy coffee floor venture (approx 30,000 sq. ft – carpet area of 23,000 sq. ft - dedicated to a supermarket, a food court, retail shops) The owner Thinley Dorji, is a young, experienced entrepreneur. It appears that UPSTAIRS may have initially started out as an attempt to add more variety to the budding restaurant culture in Thimphu. But, as it turns out, the Italian part of an unnecessarily ambitious menu - especially the large variety of Pizza - seems to be the star of UPSTAIRS. Perhaps UPSTAIRS should have been an Italian restaurant? But the proprietor paesana insalata pasgaling probably knows what he’s doing - he may not have wanted to pigeon-hole himself and limit customers looking for other things to eat. Nevertheless the pizzas are worth climb- ing up the stairs for. My pizza, the Paesana, with a fairly light tomato sauce base, Moz- fresh and flavourful. The Insalata Pasgaling, a very simple zarella, Bacon, Spinach, Zucchini, Garlic green and fresh salad, boiled eggs dressed in extra virgin and Parmesan came to us straight out of olive oil, salt, and vinegar was perfection. You can also be the oven; the pie had a perfect crust – just thankful for the very generous portions. My excited com- the right amount of crisp without being panion from The Raven, chose the Amatriciana, a classic no- burnt or brittle – tasted even better than it fuss spaghetti in a tomato, bacon, onion and parsley looked. The silence after our first bite, sauce, which was too bland for my taste. I would interrupted only by a few moans of say then that the pasta took a back seat to the pleasure, said enough. Our starter, rock-star pizza.For dessert I had the Tiramisu the only Antipasto on the menu of & Chocolate Crêpe which was not the most el- hard-boiled eggs, pickled egg- egant in presentation, but it tasted better than plant, brochette olives, and fresh it looked.What must be appreciated is that this tomato slices was as expected; restaurant uses local produce largely. You can tell that the food at UPSTAIRS wasn’t created to impress culinary greats with fancy presentations or to win awards, but more to promote a hearty meal in cas- ually stylish surroundings at reasonable prices. Judging by the feedback from the growing no. of regulars, UPSTAIRS seems to have achieved that.(By Kesang. P. Dorji)

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 55 REVIEW movie

lthough the title Gyalsey, suggests that the movie may be about the legacy of a prince, the story is neither that of a prince or a reincarnate. It is really the story of a young man, Jamyang and his dedi- Acation to love and friendship and to the people around him. The movie, which is perhaps one of the few Bhutanese movies that has attempted to develop its characters profession- ally, opened to rave reviews when it was released last month. Gyalsey is without a doubt a refreshing getaway from the over verbalized scripts in popular Bhutanese cinema. Instead of relying on dialogue the effort put into the development of scenes and focusing on building the characters makes the story line stronger. The 2 hour 35 minute movie, is a first attempt by newcomer director Jamyang Jamtsho. With Gyalsey he can be assured he has secured himself a firm position in the rankings of a good Gyalsey filmmaker in Bhutan’s burgeoning film industry. Although it may be his first time, film making and the film industry The Legacy is nothing new to Jamyang. He starred as the young Dalai of a Prince ***** In most Bhutanese movies a recurring director theme has been Jamyang Jamtsho Wangchuk about the war of cast Jamyang Jamtsho Wangchuk, Sonam Choden Tenzin, Sonam Wangyel the classes. Gyalsey, synopsis Gyalsey is the story of how romantic love transforms into love and meanwhile, has moved compassion for all sentient beings away from this.

56 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 sangay and jamyang taking a joyous mountain scooter ride

Lama in Seven Years in Tibet with Brad Pitt, one of the biggest In most Bhutanese movies a recurring theme has been names in Hollywood. It is no wonder then that he was already about the war of the classes. Gyalsey, meanwhile, has familiar with the art of acting and film-making. moved away from this and focuses more on the virtuosity Jamyang as the lead actor is a breath of fresh air. The and the ability of two good people, no matter what class character is naïve but focused, young but sensitive, loves his of society they come from. It is really a love story between thukpa over spaghetti, takes regular morning jogs, and is two classes of society and how dedication and love can prone to rendering random acts of kindness. His genuinely override classes and boundaries set by people. With Gyal- good nature secures him the girl of his dreams Sangay, played sey’s release Director Jamyang has indeed raised the bar by Sangay Choden Tenzin. for creative and good film production in Bhutan.

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The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 57 REVIEW book

nother Bhutanese, Ugyen Gyeltshen, tries his hand at writing with his new book, Dear Seday, out in the market. Dear Seday, a novel based in eastern Bhutan Awhere Ugyen is originally from tells the story of a boy raised in humble village settings coming of age. Nadola, the protagonist in the story, has been raised on the farms in the heartlands of rural Bhutan. Although he is the only child his upbringing has not been one of privilege. Through Nadola’s story he depicts the hard life and upbring- ing that is typical of most Bhutanese children on Bhutanese farms. He successfully portrays how families in rural Bhutan have difficulty sending children to school even though educa- tion is free. There are scenes and incidents in the book which may resonate with the lives of most children who may have grown up in villages outside of Thimphu. In one when Nadola first goes to school his father buys him a pair of black leather school shoes popularly known as the “naughty boy’s shoes” in Bhutan. Although he is excited at owning his first pair of

Dear Seday There are scenes and ...letter from the mountains incidents in the book which may resonate ***** with the lives of most Author Ugyen Gyeltshen children who may have publisher grown up in villages DSB Publications outside of Thimphu.

58 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 formal shoes, he is also aware that his father will have to work The book, as is evident, is not so much about Seday, but hard at paying off the loan to the shopkeeper from where the what she means to him. Seday serves as a line that still con- shoes were availed on credit. nects him to his past, which he is desperately holding on to- The book is peppered with familiar stories of most village perhaps she depicts hope. Yet, we wonder why Nadola finds boys; the tireless routine of having to help out in the fields with it difficult to move on after 15 years. backbreaking labor - ploughing fields, herding cows and other Finally at 32, he meets her again. Does he tell her or use household chores - from a tender age. But it is also a story of his letter to convey what he feels? You feel that twinge of how, with the sacrifices that his parents make to send him to uncertainty, ever present at the cusp of change, life and love. school, Nadola’s life turns around with education. Though the book evokes long lost memories of prayers The book is a collection of letters written on a cold rainy before meals and eating simple food, the reader wishes that night after Nadola sees the girl of his dreams, Seday, in a red the author had paid more attention to language. The handling Maruti Esteem car at the Lathongla Pass. He frantically begins of characters is immature and the importance rendered to to write down 15 years of his life to his high school crush- find- Seday does not come through. However, Ugyen is honest in ing courage in the pen to finally jot down his emotions, while his depiction of rural life and his own insecurities. his shy self could not all those years.

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The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 59

Tel# 02-338953 , 00975-77111171 PO.Box # 1047 email at - [email protected] living with special needs

My brother With barely a few years between them you would think they siblings are ‘thick as thieves’, but Deki Zam and her younger brother, Yeshey share a slightly different relationship.

eki Zam and her younger the 50-70 range, which is one or brother do not have a wide two standards below average who age gap between them. have MLD have difficulty retaining They are not only close in anything in their memory. It was age but also close friends. after many unsuccessful attempts, DBut given Yeshey’s mild Learning poor performances at school early Disability (MLD), which sets him on, his inattentiveness to learning back mentally by several years, the because of his inability to compre- few years of age difference, however, hend and reason basic concepts or appear generational even. instructions that Yeshey’s mother Deki is not only an older sister, pulled him out of school. Instead, but a protector and nurturer to this she decided that she would focus 5’7’’ man whose mental condition on teaching him some alternate is still that of a 10-year-old. life-skills that might prove valuable Over a cup of coffee one even- and help him later on in life. This ing, Deki recalls growing up with was how she started teaching him her brother at Draktsho, a center cooking and tailoring and later ex- for special needs children and panding these basic skills to other youth that her mother started from children who suffered from disa- her garage with the help of a Thai bilities. All Deki remembers when woman living in Bhutan. At that they were children was that her time Deki herself was young and brother was slow to learn and that didn’t really know what was wrong he was poor in his studies. But her with her brother. To Deki, Yeshey time with him as a child was not All I know is he was a normal child but her mother without fun. She recalled all the was bad in studies kept impressing it on her that her times they went fishing together, brother was a ‘special’ child. enjoying watching horror movies “Teaching him was very difficult, together while huddled under the her to say it - frame the Q as: how almost impossible. I used to teach same blanket. How is one expected could you have known right, when him mathematics and moments to understand that he is any dif- you laughed at the same things etc. later, he would have forgotten eve- ferent from you when he enjoyed and when she admits it, she has rything. I used to get so frustrated the same things that I did. That agreed to it) that I ended up crying,” she said. he laughed and cried at the same There were times when Deki’s But Children like Yeshey with a things I did, she said. (You can con- mother - single and working, had typical verbal and IQ performance firm that quote with her by getting to leave the country for work Dur-

60 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 ing these periods the three of them he did have a difficult birth and hide behind a smile. She gets her were left in the care of relatives. at 3 months of age he underwent inspiration from her mother, who But while Deki would stay with rel- a major surgery . But Yeshey has as a single woman with three small atives in Thimphu, Yeshey would his own life. He has friends from children- one a special needs one - be sent off to the village to be with the Draktsho Center and enjoys managed to provide for all of them. grandparents. “It was already a his Hindi Television serials. He She was previously in the hospital- burden for my relatives to look af- apparently wakes up by 6:30 am, ity industry which she quit to sup- ter two children, so to add my spe- prepares breakfast with some port her mother in bringing greater cial brother would have been unfair help and feeds his granny first. awareness on special needs care. to even the kindest relatives”,Deki He seems to enjoy it that every- With society changing fast Deki said. “But understanding the ill- body sits together for breakfast. says that she is fiercely protective ness and what he was suffering After breakfast Mother, daughter of him now because she can see from makes it unbearable to think and son leave for work next door. him changing. “I am worried he of leaving him with anyone for a Yeshey follows a routined schedule will get hurt. As he is getting older, night, we miss him too much, he which seems to be good for him. It he is more emotional and easily af- is the gel that binds our family.” gives him a sense of security and fected when people label him. Just But while Deki and her other stability. He goes about his work a few days ago, a salesgirl called brother have grown up, Yeshey has at the tailoring cell with other chil- him ‘tsagay’ which upset him for been left behind. He will remain dren with disabilities. There they days.” However, Deki is quick to the young ten year old for the rest make souvenirs and other items point out that people generally of his life. Growing up with a spe- like bags. After work, he goes off say good things about her brother, cial needs sibling is hard and while to meet his friends who live in the but what goes on behind is some- Deki did everything she could to same area. He is usually home for thing they will never know.With support him at home, she kept his dinner, and lies on the couch curl- her youngest brother married, she life away from her friends know- ing up with their cat Candy till his knows she will have to be the main ing too well that many people were favorite television show (the Hindi source of support for Yeshey after ignorant of understanding this dis- Serials) comes on. This has been their mother. Deki is clearly ridden ability. While Yeshey stayed under his schedule for as long as Deki by worries how her brother will the protective eye of his mother can remember. Yeshey, Deki says, deal with life if she marries and and siblings, Yeshey tried to live loves to cook and make a mean gu- starts a family of her own. Right her life as normally as she could. lab jamun. He loves Indian food now, Yeshey has no concept of what “when I was younger I partied and Nepali cuisine and is fantastic marriage is, but he has begun to - that is perhaps the one thing I at mimicking people and animals. understand the importance of ‘hav- never could do with my brother,” He does a real good mouse im- ing’ someone. Deki is deeply reli- she said regretfully. She has also personation. “Meet him once and gious and she has tried to under- never been able to take him out for soon after you leave, he will mimic stand why her brother is the way coffee with friends worrying how you exactly”, Deki laughs, with a he is. Buddhism attributes people he could make a fool of himself in hint of pride in her voice. born with disabilities to be serving front of people who may not have Few years ago, Deki began vol- out their karma. “It is a challenge the ability to understand his handi- unteering for Draktsho as a coun- to take care of a child with special cap. “I did not talk about him so selor. Her mother taught her to needs or disability, but it is not a much to other people - thinking be patient with the students. “In curse. Life would have been empty they would not understand It was the beginning it got very frustrat- without Yeshey. If it was not for a private thing for me. I craved the ing almost to the point of losing him, Draktsho would never have support of someone who was in the my temper, now I am better at it. been born through which many same boat as me. It’s not the easiest job in the world families are getting help. There are many reasons for but I am doing it and I am happy “To us, he is a blessing,” Deki learning disabilities. For Yeshey, to continue”, Deki says, her eyes says choking and fighting back the real reason is not known but tearing slightly which she tries to tears.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 61 tÊtE Á tÊtE

n the last couple of available.” months Daw Tenzin, the first Governor of the The Government has been “Bhutanese Royal Monetary Authority saying that it’s the Bhutanese of Bhutan has come who caused the rupee crisis. Iunder fire for his handling Doesn’t people become or comments on the Rupee consumerist when government merry- Issue. He has been widely policy allows it? criticized for closing the It is a combination. Now in non-resident accounts and Bhutan there is so much suspending housing and growth in the middle-income making vehicle loans. In these past group and they tend to bor- few months he has come to row to enhance their income. represent many things to So this group triggers import many people. To some, he is by borrowing from banks for the harbinger of bad economic housing, personal loans and should times for Bhutan. To others vehicle purchase. Anything he is the man who could above 30% in calculating take tough decisions. Seen to the household-to-debt ratio be fighting fire with fire, he is considered high. For Bhu- end” has publicly antagonized the tan it may be well over 150% National Council, refusing to meaning we are a highly in- submit to their instructions. debted. But we cannot blame The Raven’s Karma He has stuck to his guns the banks for lending - it’s Choden talks to the for what he claims to be the us the people who make the benefit of the country. He banks lend. Of course, the dis- RMA Governor blames the careless borrowing cipline of responsible lending culture of the affluent and the was not there. middle class for “sleepwalking On the other hand, the with the rupee into disaster”, government has town plans yet he seems to be willing to for all 20 dzongkhags- if be the one guy to take the there were no plans, there onus of putting the measures wouldn’t be any housing, and in place for the overall benefit there wouldn’t be any need for of the economy, even if it transport infrastructure and meant causing momentary vehicle purchase. But, these pain to all. In this exclusive are normal in any growing interview with The Raven’s economy. Because when you Karma Choden, Governor are growing, you cannot see Daw Tenzin said that the the limit. rupee is not “air that is freely

62 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 What do you mean when you say the discipline of responsible lending was not there?

The present situation emerged because of the af- fluent and the middle-income groups, both grew their in- come through borrowing, so the borrowing culture is very strong in Bhutan. Many peo- ple also thought that rupee was a legal tender and that it is theirs without earning. Since Bhutanese were getting used to getting rupee easily, we had to put few measures in place; we had to calibrate everything now and then, in- cluding bank credit growth curbing, and import meas- ures. We had to put in place many things and discipline People still say you are our spending. Now, rupee is Q unfit for the job - what treated as a foreign currency and it will no longer be issued do you have to say? from bank counters for circu- lation. Rupee will follow the foreign exchange guidelines and will be exchanged from the foreign exchange window. Changes had to be made, and 10 year grace period. ment crisis, it is a structural and yes, rupee is available, For hydropower it’s 10% but imbalance crisis. Growth is but they will have to breathe pegged to the earning when still going to be there. As the in harder, since it is like any the project is launched. The Governor, my main worry is foreign currency. most short-term debt is over- the debt and growth dynam- draft. The interest is quite ics. We perpetually do not en- How much have we spent so far high, so anytime we are ready courage the govt. to grow by and how much are we in debt? with the money we have to liq- borrowing. The public debt, the money uidate. The greatest danger is But how do you stop an average that the government bor- the credit from the banking Bhutanese from borrowing rowed for projects including sector for private consump- to grow - considering every hydropower, schools and hos- tion. Today if you take a loan Bhutanese dreams of owning a pitals, come close to Nu 60 of Rs 3 lakhs, immediately it home? billion. But these are all long Bhutan is an calls for rupee for import. So term debt borrowed from the import led this is the key concern now for But there is a limit. Until now, country, with Asian Development Bank and over 75% of our us. The recent IMF and World banks were highly exposed to the World Bank on low inter- merchandise Bank mission stated that Bhu- industries and housing. In est with a 30 year repayment from India tan is not in a balance of pay- the name of home ownership,

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 63 interview

individuals were getting into They may be top commercial buildings. Just A now, there is no liquidity, so economists, but they are they cannot borrow. It’s as simple as that. We will have not central bankers to put more policy measures through interest rates, raise the rates higher so that they are not encouraged to borrow the rupee outflow is not nec- tors related to hydropower, for so much. essarily through hydropower. e.g. a town like Gaeddu, grew Many people say that these The rupee outflow is through because of hydropower. This measures have hurt many our collective consumption fast pace of urbanization is the ‘mey nyamchus’ (common through the banking system main cause of rupee outflow, folk). Mey nyamchus cannot without any rules and proce- that has increased demand build houses, they will never dures. for housing, vehicle, grocery, buy cars. It’s only some clothing, etc. So when there But there has been reports people who just make noise. was free access to bank credit, that RMA has accelerated and when there was unlimited (chuckling) the problem by withholding convertibility of ngultrum into Still there are complaints that the dollars for hydropower Indian rupee- that slipped the our hydropower projects are development and releasing the whole thing actually. growing too fast - that it is equivalent in ngultrum to the the biggest reason behind the government. Following the rupee crunch, rupee outflow. What do you we have been hearing that have to say? Just to be clear, the reserve Bhutanese business houses are that RMA has built is through depositing money in Indian I am a true believer of hy- grant, aid, and concessional banks. It is not only illegal but dropower potential because borrowings, not through ex- also a drain on the economy? this is the only potential [the] port performance - meaning Bhutanese can reap. Yes, the we didn’t build up the reserve Where will the Bhutanese take pace of the hydropower de- by selling. For hydropower the ngultrum to deposit? Who velopment maybe faster than there is money, through grant will take ngultrum in the first what we could take [on]. But as well as loan. Axillary sec- place? Bhutanese currency is

64 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 What was the deal between you not yet convertible…so, they into a debate, which I didn’t and National Council. Why did share. Internal documents cannot take the ngultrum and want to. Dr. Joseph Stiglitz is you refuse to go to the Council, cannot be shared externally deposit it elsewhere. Even if a renowned man and I didn’t when most institutions and and made public. they have converted the local want to pull him down with an officials have? They said ‘he refused to currency into rupee, making argument in a public forum. come’ and that’s why they a bank deposit in India is very They may be the apex law could not finish their job. If But shouldn’t you have done tough. The regulation by the making body in the country, they can’t complete their job, that in the interest of the but that is their responsibility. maybe it is due to the lack of Central Bank of India is so country? Because they said tough that foreigners cannot Bhutan doesn’t have a crisis. Both the Privy Council and professional capacity rather open bank accounts easily. National Assembly financial than my refusal to come. The issue of Bhutanese de- Well, they were talking about committees came to RMA to First time they summoned, positors taking money and the management reserve, study the rupee situation. We I was out of the country, so flying away across the border which they do not understand. showed them the figures and the deputy governor went is not true at all. They were advising the gov- briefed them for two hours. before the NC. In that sense, ernment and the people to But the NC committee never the deputy governor was I want to talk about the sell the foreign exchange to set foot in RMA. Being the the governor during my economic forum where Dr. buy rupee. Yes, over 75% of apex body they wanted all absence. The second time, I Joseph Stiglitz and Dr. Hamid Rashid from UN-DESA spoke. our import is from India, but the information to be given was again on leave, and the Your absence there was widely we cannot sell the convertible to them and they wanted deputy governor yet again discussed, especially when it currency reserve - that should my board meeting files from represented me. Yes, they concerned our country’s rupee be our last line of defense for 2007 till now. Board meeting have the right to summon problem? us. They may be top econo- files do not necessarily talk me, but does it necessarily mists, but they are not cen- about rupee, and there are have to be Daw Tenzin as the First of all, that economic fo- tral bankers. Central bankers many things the central bank Governor? We opened the rum was my idea. I wanted know what we need to do. normally does files and they can look at it. to gather all the stakeholders not But they focused on the fact So you do not agree to and put an economic forum that I refused to come. In the Joseph Stiglitz’s idea beginning they said they were in Bhutan, but with Dr. Joseph of selling our dollar Stiglitz and Dr. Rashid - their reserves and trying to do a review, later it views are different from mine, maintaining it seemed to me that they were and I did not have interest to in rupees? trying to investigate me. If that attend. They do not have the is the case, send the case to the native intelligence as I do; I No. Even the court and the court will issue am a Bhutanese, I am born recent IMF an order and then I will go. here and I am the governor- I and World You have earlier said that gossips know the situation. Bank mission and informal talk at bars doesn’t advised us But still, wasn’t it still important sum up to expert analysis. not to sell our to be there to provide a counter Do you think there has been dollar reserve. argument, especially as the too much unwanted media governor? That should be attention on this issue? the last line of It was not necessary, because defense. Yes, vested interests were the best reaction is no reaction trying to play up the media. What (chuckling)…many times when For example, in Kuensel it they talk things that do not was written the ngultrum is make sense to me per- meaningless. We have the sonally I don’t want king, we have the flag…we to go. You un- are a sovereign nation, that is necessarily get why we printed the ngultrum,

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 65 “In celebration of the International Day for Disaster Reduction on 13th Oct 2012.”

The Department of Disaster Management, MoHCA, as the National Co-coordinating Agency for all types of Disasters and Risk Management in Bhutan, takes this opportunity to express our deepest gratitude to His Majesty the King for providing the magnanimous Royal Relief and Kidu support to the affected families of the recent disaster events.

Bhutan is highly vulnerable to various natural hazards Disaster Risk Reduction and Management is Every Body’s and disasters, some of the past disaster events are: Business !

- Glacial Lake Outburst Flood of 1994 Disaster Management is not only about ad-hoc response but 17 lives lost it is all about Pro-active planning and preparing for all the Caused huge damage to infrastructure and cycles of Disaster Management – viz:, Awareness, Prevention, agricultural properties Mitigation, Preparedness and Response - for which each and every individual/Agency shall be fully responsible and - Cyclone Aila precipitated flood of 2009 accountable. 13 lives lost Damage worth Nu. 722 Million

- Mongar Earthquake of 2009 The Department of Disaster Management, in our sincere Magnitude – 6.3 efforts towards effective and efficient disaster awareness, 12 lives lost mitigation, preparedness and response seeks for wholehearted Damage worth Nu. 2501 Million collaboration, support and cooperation from all the relevant Stakeholders and the General public in reducing disaster - Windstorm of 2010 & 2011 risks in the Country of Gross National Happiness. Damage approx. Nu. 40 Million Let us strive towards building Safer and Happier - Sikkim Earthquake of 2011 Bhutan ! Magnitude 6.9 1 life lost, 14 injured Damage worth Nu. 1198 Million

- Major Structural Fires of Wamrong & Chamkhar towns and Wangduephodrang Dzong

The Department of Disaster Management joins the nation to celebrate the 1st anniversy of the Royal Wed- ding on 13th October. We offer our prayers for peace, prosperity and happiness to the Royal Couple.

For more Information: Log in: www.ddm.gov.bt or, call 334944, 321004, 327319, 326910, 322945, or Hotline No. 233. interview

for good reason. Now, many people talk about the cur- Do you think the vegetable rency value, that ngultrum is Q a valueless currency and that import ban was the right we should de-peg from the rupee… the central bank and move by the Govt.? the monetary policy operates under the international mon- etary system…we are a signa- tory to the IMF articles of agreement, we are a member You have said that earning INR is not their lending rate. We also introduced RMA’s responsibility, but isn’t it RMA’s of the IMF, we follow the IMF the base rate, which gives transparency responsibility to frame policies that leads to arrangement and exchange to the bank to set the lending rate- below prudent earning or spending of INR? restitutions. which they cannot lend. We also intro- See, RMA is a custodian of the national duced the last resort of lenders- when People still say you are unfit treasury. Our job is not to generate ru- the banks are in trouble- they can come for the job- what do you have pee. Rupee generation and expenditure and borrow from us through that win- to say? is done by the government and the pri- dow. Of course, the heat was too much, Is it? Good, maybe there are vate sector. RMA’s job is to manage. Just but it gave the central bank to act pro- people who are fit for the job. now we are doing an overdraft, which is fessionally and in a manner a Central I have done the best that I not the job of the RMA, but the govern- Bank does. can. Even the IMF and World ment did not have much space to handle RMA has been pushing Bhutan towards Bank fully share the meas- it, so we had to do it temporarily. Also we cashless transactions. How does it help ures I have taken. If I am not put the measures and systems in place, Bhutan? fit for the job, yes they have so that in future when the fiscal action the choice to bring someone comes through taxation, broadening Yes. As an importing country, we have else…(chuckles)… I did not bar- the tax base and other quantitative limit to import, but import transaction in gain for it. Even in the media, comes into place, we will withdraw the cash has a risk, has a cost, and a tax they ask me that being the restrictions. Even the overdraft of rupee loophole. Until this year, most of the Governor, on moral grounds from State Bank of India and Punjab import transactions were done through I should resign….I said yes. I National Bank- nowhere in the world cash, drawing huge sacks of cash…now never thought Bhutanese had does the Central Bank borrow from when we make transaction through the any morals…if Bhutanese had commercial banks to bail out private banking system, stop the cash…we can morals, let us exercise moral consumption. trace the import and export figure, we responsibility collectively, can trace the cash outflow. Even printing Then why did we do this in Bhutan? isn’t it? ngultrum has a cost on the RMA, it is We had to do it. During such a crisis, risky for people to carry large amounts of So if time comes, you wouldn’t you have to do the unprecedented thing. cash, and there is a tax loophole…people hesitate to take up moral evade tax through cash. responsibility and resign? Would you say that this was one precedent However, no society can make you have set in RMA, after it became its economy fully cashless. But now Yes, why not? The current cri- autonomous- besides your other systems sis was not made by me as the precedence? with electronic fund transfer, mobile Governor, it was the collective banking, internet banking, point of sale merrymaking of all the Bhu- See, the crisis gave an opportunity to the (even at fuel stations), there will not be tanese…so why should I take RMA to act as a central bank. Initially the any cash leakage and mishandling of the responsibility, we say let central bank had only one instrument cash. For businesses, why collect cash us all take the responsibility called the CRR- Cash Reserve Ratio. by selling and next day deposit in the collectively. Now during the crisis, we introduced the bank? If you use point of sale, money policy rates on which the banks will peg jumps from account to account. You just

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 67 TEAM & contributers

There has been speculation that own life and what sort of crisis have to pick up things and give if we de-value our currency Vegetable ban was necessary, have you faced personally after to the buyer. and un-peg it from the rupee, because Bhutan could grow all the crisis began? We also had to look at our that Bhutan might experience kinds of vegetable, yet we were own demography; the median an economic boom. Your not growing, so the ban will My earning is in ngultrum, age in Bhutan is say 22 years comments. trigger some interest in the my children’s earning is in old and is around 42% of the farming community to grow ngultrum, and we have every- Bhutanese population. This You de-value your currency if and increase their income. thing here in Bhutan. There group is mobile, and techno- your economy is export-based. This is the only way to ride on are importers who bring the savvy. All young people drive The logic is that if your cur- the sustainability path. goods here, so we buy with and they wouldn’t like to carry rency is low, your export will the local currency. There are Even with all these measures in cash, so we put a point of sale at rise. But when we have a huge shops selling whatever we place, we are on a slippery slope need. If my family has to go fuel stations, it is also safer for debt, huge import and we de- and the rupee crisis will not the fuel depositor and owners. value our currency, then we abate in the next few months? for a medical checkup or a The payment gateway is a are gone (chuckles). What should we expect? treatment in India we can wonderful thing- we designed transfer any amount to the So it’s not a good move for that to give comfort, facility, We are an import-led country, hospital account. Any Bhuta- Bhutan? service to all the Bhutanese so with over 75% of our merchan- nese student in India can open that you reduce your risk, and No, not at all. In 2004, Argen- dise from India. Only earning an account in India and mon- saves the central bank the cost tina de-pegged [its currency] of rupee is from hydropower ey can be transferred to their of printing. Already the life of from the dollar. When they and some industrial export. account by family members a currency is hardly five to six unhooked from the dollar, But, unlike in the past, it is from Bhutan. So I am telling months. The way Bhutanese they first had to devalue their no more enough. Now with my family there is no crisis. handle cash shortens the life currency and by that much, the growth in the popula- Any tips from the RMA Governor to barely two to three months. the Argentineans were poorer. tion, growth in the business to improve this situation? So printing and reprinting is They had to re-designate the volume, rupee is going to be done by RMA, which is quite asset and liability into their a challenge in the future, say Being a Bhutanese citizen, our high. Any transaction done currency and re-introduce until 5 to 10 years, until the economy is import and aid through cash is no longer a their currency. Many people full hydropower potentials are driven. Many countries come virtue. talk about devaluation and reaped. However, we may not and give us help here and it un-pegging without under- get into the critical situation is their tax money. The best The average Bhutanese has been standing it properly. For e.g. like we did in 2011. thing I can ask the Bhutanese enjoying life as it is- with nature America was blaming China is that if you are a true Bhu- as well as with development. Does that mean that importers for manipulating currency val- tanese and if you want to see How long can we expect to have will face undue problems with this nation grow- pay tax, dis- this? ue. China is a huge exporter. importing from here on? That is why they de-value their cipline yourself not to get into Bhutanese merrymaking currency as much as they do. The only restriction is on new unnecessary consumption. should come to an end. When If you are an exporter, it makes housing loans and purchase of Would you say that we should we say we are in a happiness sense. If you are a net import- vehicles. The rest is all given follow the GNH way of life? country, we should also watch er, then you kill yourself. through the banking channel. the balance sheet. As long as Apart from items like alcohol GNH means happiness, but Do you think the vegetable your balance sheet is red, we and luxury good everything as a banker you are happy import ban was the right move is allowed for import. Any with reason- with your book. cannot continually be green by the government. What would and happy. This kind of situ- you have suggested otherwise? amount the importer wanted, Well, if you want to be happy ation also gives most of the they just need to submit the but you are a highly indebted Bhutanese to rationalize now- Bhutan is a wonderful land. invoice and we give it through individual- happiness will just can we ever live a lifestyle of Leaving the farms barren and the banking channel. melt away. So consumption a consumer-based economy? just jumping across the bor- led, debt driven wealth- DO How does the RMA Governor No, we have to produce, gener- der buying things we can grow NOT jump into it. As a citizen, manage the rupee issue in his ate and earn our income. ourselves in not a good idea. pay tax, follow rules, discipline

68 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 yourself. Be prudent. Even Rupee is going to be a the housewives are not prudent anymore. During A challenge in the future, my mother’s time, the housewives controlled the say for 5 to 10 years money flow through them. Of course the job of the husband/father is to make money and bring, but her job is to manage the money. Now each dzongkhag has urban concessional borrowing, we the housewives- their purse development plans. Do we do not have our own potential is open 24 hours- so when want to develop all that in the to generate and earn. So this you lose that prudence, you 11th FYP? If yes, then the ru- is the upside risk. really get into trouble. Even in pee slide is definite. We need Last couple months must have villages, when we were young to cut areas where rupee out- been very difficult for you. If - forget fish and chicken - flow is involved. you could give us some idea of even pork and beef was very I also suggest the what it was like. limited. So let us be prudent government relook and for the time being so that our discuss in parliament on I was fortunate because Ly- future is safe. broadening the tax base. onchen and the Cabinet were Anyone who had not seen When Tala was launched, our quite open to my ideas. As a a 500 note before are now per capita GDP grew from US central bank, we follow data rolling in money because $600 to $2,000. Already most point, trends, and we analyze of profit made from land of our development partners them, use good judgment and speculation and sale. True are saying Bhutan should then run. The closing of the democracy comes by paying graduate from LDC status. non-resident accounts, people tax, if you want your voice When Punatshangchu is thought I did not give them to be heard. If you don’t launched, our per capita GDP time- I CANNOT. We had to pay tax, just vote and select will jump over $4000- then be rational and then to take a guy and ask him to bring we wouldn’t get any grant aid, a decision on the temporary water, road, school, house- we will have limited access to suspension of housing and it is unreasonable. Pay your vehicle loan. Many people tax, look for the person who wouldn’t have done it, but I can manage that tax properly. chose to do it because it was Without paying tax, it is not necessary. sustainable at all. And Now the public we must cut on the understands fully. I have consumption. comfort, because my main worry more than the rupee What would you issue was how best to have suggest to the a system in place; how do government? we coordinate between the The govt. should Customs, bank and the RMA- re-look at their because the game is played development there. Now all the major plans. There systems are launched- things are 20 dzong- are falling into place, the dust khags and is settling down.

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 69 most discussed news last month

The Gyelpozhing roundup

he scenic town of Gyel- the home minister. A one acre pozhing is becoming a plot was given to Lyonpo Yeshey potential eastern hub Zimba, the then finance minister. following the 60MW A 50 decimal plot was given to Kurichu Hydropower, the then communication minis- Tthe Dungsam Cement Project, the ter, Lyonpo Leki Dorji. The plots Nganglam-Gyelpozhing highway, were allotted to them at a rate of and the 1,800MW Kuri Gongri Nu 5 per square feet or Nu 2,178 project planned downstream. That a decimal. is why the illegal land transactions In the commercial and resi- around 10 years back are under dential area in Gyelpozhing town, scrutiny. In 2001-02, when the cur- land was also allotted to a host of rent speaker Jigme Tshultrim, was influential people directly or to the Mongar Dzongda and the ex their spouses and other family officio chairman of the dzongkhag members. land allotment committee, land in In the second allotment of Gyelpozhing town and nearby ar- commercial plots at Gyelpozhing, eas were illegally allotted to several none of the influential beneficiar- influential people and their rela- ies had a business license, a req- tives including ministers, judges, uisite at the time of allotments. dzongdas and senior Kurichu Pro- The land allotment in Gyel- ject staff. pozhing was part of a larger The land allotments, it was re- allotment done in two phases. ported, were in violation of Royal In the first phase in 1999, 19 Kashos on land allotment and the commercial plots were allotted Land Act 1979. to business people who had valid Apart from not following the business licenses. The second established procedures on allot- allotment was in June, 2001. ting plots in Gyelpozhing town About 25 plots were allotted proper the dzongda, had also from commercial area and about acquired additional government 46 plots from residential area land across the Kurichu river during the second phase. The six which was not part of the town or seven plots allotted to different plan area and gave away large individuals on the other side of chunks of it to the influential the Kurichhu River totaling 8.10 beneficiaries. acres of land were categorized as Across the river, a 50 deci- “high command plots.” mal plot was given to Lyonchen There were four committees Jigmi Y. Thinley who was then that allotted commercial and

70 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 residential plots in Gyalpoizhing, most Mongar between 1999 and 2006. Headed by the dzongda as the discussed committee chairman and dzongr- news in sept ab as the member secretary, two committees were formed to allot Most findings were commercial plots and the other substantiated by two to allot residential plots. Both committees comprised of the ACC, which 12 members each and included conducted a separate almost all the dzongkhag sector 3.3 heads like the land record officer, investigation. billion ngultrum worth of district engineer, district agri- software was exported from cultural officer, district livestock Bhutan last year. officer, Mongar gup, Saling gup, Mongar town chimi, Gyalpoizh- ing town thueme, and Mongar Jigmi Y Thinley had requested municipal committee member. ACC to do so on August 26 last Five plots in the commercial year, froze transactions of 75 plots area and the other side of the belonging to both individuals and 447 river were allotted when the institutions last month. black necked cranes visited present home minister Minjur Land records today indicate Bhutan in 2011-2012. The Dorji was the Mongar dzongda in that 81.89 acres of private land world has only around 2005 and 2006. He also formed was acquired which means more 11,000 cranes. a 12-member committee in 2005 private land may have been and another one in 2006, accord- acquired after Dasho Lhakpa ing to sources. Of the five plots, Dorji’s tenure as dzongda. two plot sizes of 10.67 decimals Four committees were formed each were allotted to Drametse between 1999 and 2006 at the dratshang in Mongar and Khar- district level to specifically allot 50 chu dratshang in Bumthang in commercial and residential plots. the commercial area. Most findings were substanti- The country has 50 A gist of the investigation find- ated by the ACC, which con- freshwater fish species. ings on the Gyalpoizhing land ducted a separate investigation. case posted on the ACC website, ACC pronounced that of the 99 said the plot allotment committee plots allotted, 67 (14.12 acres) had undermined the rule of law were illegal. After the case was and the principle of due dili- forwarded to the OAG, interest- gence, fairness, equity, transpar- ingly they found no legal basis to ency and check and balance. Its pursue the case to court. findings, which is now with the But this is not the end, the Attorney General, stated that of case will only become tenser as the 99 plots allotted in both com- the ACC can now move the case mercial and residential areas, 67 to court. The Gyelpozhing land plots or 14.12 acres were illegal. case will also be major campaign 10 Anti Corruption Commission, point in the 2013 elections. cases of child labor was which began investigations into recorded in the last four the Gyalpoizhing case on Septem- years. ber 20, 2011 after Prime Minister

The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 71 art

‘Ishness’ by Karma Wangchuk Karma Wangchuk learnt the basics of painting while at school at Dr. Graham’s Homes in Kalimpong, India. He is an obsessive ‘sky-gazer; hopeless at using gadgets. Has an irrational fear that Bhutan in a 100 years will turn into a mere cultural museum. He is currently painting a portrait of His Majesty the King and making a documentary on HIV status in Bhutan. Contact Karma Wangchuk at [email protected]

72 The Raven OCTOBER, 2012 eat prices have gone Mup. Beef with bones will be at Nu 140 a kilo- gram, and boneless beef will be Nu 200. Sonam Tobgay DashoKunzang Wangdii n the run up to the Looks like Bhutan Kuen-Ngyam Chief Election Commissioner IUN Security Council Party really wants to prove it’s Dasho Kunzang Wangdi has non-permanent seat bid, an out-of-the-box party. And it come to grips with social media Bhutan forged diplomatic went too far this time when Party being quite active on Facebook relations with four spokesperson Sonam Tobgay an- and Twitter. Perhaps other senior countries in September: nounced they will offer a minister officials who run away from be- UAE, Slovenia, , post to the opposition leader if ing on social media could take Armenia,Turkey and Slovak they come to power. some lessons from him. Republic

he Bhutan lemon grass Toil, popular among tourists as a gift to their loved ones, is becoming unpopular with farmers who produce it. While the Lemongrass Cooperative Group comprising of 170 farmers from four eastern dzongkhags produced 10 tons of lemongrass oil in 2007, this year, the num- ber of members dwindled to 45 and only three tons Tshewang R Wangchuk Thinley Gyamtsho can be produced. Respected Conservationist and Druk Phunsum Tshogpa secre- Bhutan Foundation Executive tary Thinley Gyamtsho talking angay Tshering from Director Tshewang R Wangchuk, to BBS said the party has not SLaithang Goenpa in was recently nominated as the approached anyone to join them. Mongar is a lucky man. National Geographic explorer But what about this quote from An unwelcome visitor, an of the week on September 5 to the same story, “Thinley Gyamt- adult leopard entered his focusing on his work on snow sho also said the party is looking house on September 21 and leopards. for more women candidates.” attacked him, but Sangay Tshering escaped with minor injuries.

73 last word

s October rolls in we are reminded of things that are bound to change along with the coming of cold drafts, the migratory birds and chirping crickets in the afternoon autumn sun. The seeds of Athe past year will finally bear fruits, and rewards will abound. The gift of grains, the chilies and Sichuan peppers out on rooftops creates a feast for woodpigeons, who knows the good days are ending. Perhaps, at this cusp, we should also be reminded that Bhutan is in the thick of things which are grounds for resonating change. Like the seasons, this process may seem mundane, but it is integral to what the Bhutanese society will eventually stand for. What will be a Bhutanese society if it does not encompass every small thing that identifies us, even though seemingly inconsequential? Maybe as we snuggle the cold out, it will be necessary to fathom what could take our Bhutanese society forward as a civilization. What are the qualities we want to be known for? What philosophy besides Gross National Happiness do we want to be identified for? As a people, Bhutanese are idealists but how much of our ideals are we willing to plant for our future generation? We have been at the crux of many contradictory ideals and practices. The pedestrian day comes to mind: though the rationale behind upholding pedestrian day was lauded, not many of us wanted to actually walk to put to practice the same ideals we held. So what does this mean?? Does it mean that we do not have what it takes to ‘walk the talk’? That we are lazy? How many of us have strolled the streets and did not bother to pick up debris to throw in the bin nearby but complained of it all the same?? For an environmentally conscious society, it would seem the most natural thing to do. A recent editorial in The Bhutanese about the shadowy world of civil service put forward many issues, but what struck out that was atypical to the service is the lack of priority given to mentoring in the system. Being a boss and being a mentor are two different things, and in a system where the ‘boss’ is the law, mentoring will invariably be absent. How does this generation of civil service begin to teach the next? We may have to remind ourselves that though the system might serve some of us now, there might come a time when it does not. The expose of scams the past few months left the population chagrined not so much because the system allowed it, but that it might keep allowing. This October 13th is the first Royal Wedding Anniversary of King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck to Gyaltshuen Jetsun Pema. So keeping aside the scams and the apprehension of upcoming elections, we may well be making a small conscientious move to better ourselves as the coming months will be not just cold but hard. When the nation celebrates the anniversary, as a token of felicitation we may take small footsteps of change; say no to calls while talking to somebody sitting across you and excuse yourself if you must, pick that paper strewn near your bin, avoid cutting lines and follow queues. As Van Gogh said, “great things are done by a series of small things brought together”, and the hope here is that it pays forward, and we, the Bhutanese, will come out of it better.

Karma Choden (Managing Editor)

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