J. fash. bus. Vol. 20, No. 6:111-134, Dec. 2016 ISSN 1229-3350(Print) https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2016.20.6.111 ISSN 2288-1867(Online)

A Study on the Design Changes and the Acceptance of Identity on Luxury Brand -Focusing on the Fashion Collections of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel-

Jin­Hee Choi* · Mi­Suk Lee† Dept. of Clothing and , Chonnam National University* Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Chonnam National University, Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam Nationa University

Abstract

A luxury brand is a medium to symbolize brand identity and plays a role in enhancing brand value. A typical example is a designer signature bag such as Hermes , , and Lady Bag. The purpose of this study is to analyze the design changes and acceptance of identity of luxury brand bags and examine the design characteristics that succeed to the value of a luxury brand bag. The subjects of the study focused on Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel bags. Photos were collected from www.vogue.co. uk. based on the fashion collections from S/S 2007 to S/S 2016. The study methodology was to analyze the kinds, shapes, colors, materials, and the ornament of subject bags based on previous studies. The results of the study were summarized as follows. For the identity and design changes of each brand, Chanel has tried to combine functionality pursued in the past with constantly changing femininity by making bags in fantastic moods using various materials and free shapes. Gucci has constantly used Ornament elements holding the brand identity of classic bags and trend colors to keep tradition. Louis Vuitton holds fast to its functional shape to protect brand identity through design philosophy that started with a travel luggage and attempts to express modern emotion through Ornament changes. This study confirmed that luxury brands have accepted their unique design characteristics holding brand identity to improve their brand value and attempted to change constructive elements in many different ways for modern reinterpretation.

Keywords : brand identity, Chanel, Gucci, luxury brand bag, Louis Vuitton.

†Corresponding author: Mi-Suk Lee, Tel. +82-62-530-1349 E-mail: [email protected]

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Ⅰ. Introduction stories including a birth. They have been established as the representative item of fashion A luxury brand bag is a medium to symbolize brands. According to the recent research by brand identity and plays a role in enhancing ‘Millward Brown’, a global market research firm, brand value. A typical example is a designer the most valuable brand of luxury brands in signature bag such as Hermes Kelly Bag which 2015 was Louis Vuitton, followed by Hermes, symbolizes Grace Kelly, the Queen of Monaco, Gucci, and Chanel("In 2016, The Luxury You Birkin Bag which was made for Jane Birkin, an Choose", 2016). The most frequently mentioned English actress, and Bag which was luxury brands in Korean on-line have been named after Spencer, the Crown Princess Chanel, followed by Louis Vuitton, Gucci, of Great Britain who used the bag regularly. Hermes, and Burberry. The most frequently These luxury brand bags have been loved by searched brands during recent years has been fashionistas who take much of their sensibility Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel("In 2016, The as well as the specific upper classes. A Luxury You Choose", 2016). basically plays a practical role in According to Gallup Korea’s survey in 2015, storing things, as well as clearly conveys the Korean people’s most favorite luxury brand in organic unity and total image of a total fashion. off-line was Chanel, followed by Gucci, Louis In this regard, it established itself as a symbol Vuitton, and Prada(“Korean Men Like 'Gucci'”, of expressing original individuality and a social 2015). As shown in the survey, domestic, and status(Jang & Cho, 2008). Stone suggested that overseas consumers’ most preferred luxury bags “a handbag made the person dramatic or were Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel. The produced a personal image by the contrast to diffusion of a consumption pattern which seeks the whole clothing.” He took the cases of for a more emotional design has contributed to Hermes handbag, also called ‘Kelly bag’ with a establishing design as a key element of product graceful image, which was a favorite bag of competitiveness. It has also surfaced aesthetic Grace Kelly, the queen of Monaco, in 1956, elements such as materials and technique as a Princess Diana’s Ferragamo clutch, and 2.25 more important competitive element rather than Chanel handbag(Kim & Lee, 2011) which was traditional elements such as function and quality the first shoulder bag. He emphasized that a in design elements. As a handbag has a small handbag played an important role in showing technology gap between companies and strong personal identity. Women’s bag, which is an price competition, design is the most strong and important medium of expressing women’s effective differentiation(Park, Lee, & Yoon, 2013). identity, is a means to express a brand image In particular, luxury brands are proud of their most clearly. Silvia Venturini for Fendi says that long history and tradition and make the best since women’s bag greatly acts as an icon to products by the best craftsman. They have symbolize a brand, many fashion brands have succeeded to craftsmanship in the principle of spent a lot of time and money on making a the best materials, moderate design, quality bag(S. Kim, 2016). A bag is directly connected production process, and small production that with the value of fashion brands. In particular, has been long stuck and appropriately mixed various It Bags by luxury brands are the trends with brand identity in design(Jaejin Lee, birthplace of brand history with all kinds of 2008).

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Previous bag researches have mostly focused products in a dictionary meaning. It is ‘名品 ’ on the history of bags(Kim, 1998), written in Chinese characters, which means constructiveness(Kim & Chung, 2006; Jiyoung ‘excellent things with a long tradition’. It is Kim, 2009; Yang, Kim & Lee, 2007), material ‘luxury brand’ or ‘luxury goods’ in English, which development(Hong, 2002), the differentiation means ‘excellent products or things’. As shown strategy of luxury fashion brands(Jungyeon Kim, in ‘luxury brand’, it is closely associated with a 2003; Park, 2010), and collaboration with art(S. price(Choi & Kim, 2005). In this reason, luxury Kim, 2016). However, few detailed and in-depth goods are often regarded as very expensive researches have been reported on the articles or culture which can be enjoyed by a constructive characteristics and changes of few special classes rather than by many ordinary luxury brand bags which have maintained their people. However, the most common word about brand identity. The purpose of this study is to luxury goods that occurred to people was a high analyze the design changes and acceptance of price, followed by elegance, dream, valuables, identity of luxury brand bags and examine the fame, close difficulty, rarity, lightness, high design characteristics that succeed to the value quality, quality of life, eccentricity, ostentation, of a luxury brand bag. trend, gap, creativity, craftsmanship, and The subjects of the study were limited to originality. Luxury goods have gradually reflected Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel bags which their conditions such as fame, craftsmanship, were always included in top five brands based tradition, and the value of rarity. Many people on the rank selected as high value luxury brands consider them elegant valuables rather than have for resenting several years and presented for 10 negative recognition of costly goods(Choi, years from S/S 2007 collection to S/S 2016 2007). In other words, the stage of negative collection. The study methodology included a recognition that regards luxury goods as literature review and empirical study. The eccentricity or ostentation has already ended. literature review investigated the definition of It was Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMN to luxury goods and brand identity based on promote the concept of luxury goods to a very related books and previous studies in Korea and high state. He maintained the elaborate criteria examined the identity of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, of products and grandly led luxury goods to and Chanel bags. The empirical study sampled industry(Jeon Lee, 2006). Luxury goods are a 1,087 photos in the Pret-a-porter Close-Up at token to show what to buy and what a premium www.vogue.co.uk. and analyzed the kinds, product is to people. It can be common shapes, colors, materials, details, and the language accepted between consumers in the ornament of bags. world(D. Kim, 2004). Customers do not only buy clothes or bags themselves. They want to express their images and show their existence to Ⅱ. Theoretical Background others, which is a very important function of luxury goods. For example, Bvlgari jewelry gives 1. Concept of Luxury Goods emotional satisfaction for women buying and using it. Perhaps she can be happy in her life Luxury goods refer to excellent things or by herself seeking for beauty and elegance and

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others admitting and knowing herself. To her, place in top ten luxury brands selected by Bvlgari products is not an accessory but a Interbrand suggested that the value of luxury valuable symbol which reveals her character or brands was history and tradition(Choi & Lee, elegant image(D. Kim, 2004). It is the power of 2010). The history and tradition of luxury brands luxury goods and customers are delighted to are the unique value that they have not lost life buy them in spite of an expensive price because above the times and have constantly attracted of their image and value. women in the world. Therefore, this chapter will examine the constant and unique characteristics 2. Identity of Luxury Brand Bags of a bag which forms identity as a timeless core element through the history of Louis Vuitton, Also, brand identity is a unique set of brand Gucci, and Chanel. associations that the brand strategist aspires to create or maintain. These associations represent 1) Louis Vuitton what the brand stands for and imply a promise to customers from the brand owners(Choi, Lee,& Louis Vuitton founded a company in 1854, Cheong, 2006). David A. Aaker suggests that invented a wardrobe for a long carriage the structure of brand identity consists of a core travel, and developed the waterproofing gray identity and an extended identity. The core Trianon and the checked Damier canvas. identity contains the associations that are most Then, Georges Vuitton, his son, developed the likely to remain constant as the brand travels to LV monogram canvas which combined L and V new markets and products(Choi et al., 2006). that are his father’s initials with flowers and The extended identity is a brand identity element quatrefoils. He also made a monogram bag that complements the core identity(“Brend using synthetic leather(Chung & Kim, 2001). The Theory”, 2016). Today a brand provides Keepall bag introduced in 1924 and the Speedy magnificent value and information to consumers. bag with a flat bottom and a round top having Furthermore, it evokes strong royalty, constant much storage space introduced in 1930 was purchase desire and aspiration, pride, and made of synthetic leather(“Louis Vuitton", confidence in consumption and finally makes an n.d.-a)(Figure 1). The Noe bag, made in 1932, aura, a brand charisma. All luxury brands have was originally designed to store five bottles of an aura(“Brend Theory”, 2016). The higher brand champagne and held Louis Vuitton’s philosophy image, the higher brand value. If two luxury of a dignified travel. The Alma bag introduced in brands have no big difference in quality such 1934 was characterized by simple semilunar that consumers cannot distinguish, the grade of design and ample storage space with high the brands is decided according as which brand utility(Johnson, 2002). Since 1977, Louis Vuitton has a higher image(D. Kim, 2004). The image is has built a professional manager system to be the aura accumulated with long history. turned into a modern company. In 1997, it hired Customers buying luxury brands buy their long Marc Jacobs to change its fixed image. Then history and all histories with products. Bernard the Monogram Vernis Leather which modernized Arnault, CEO of LVMH which have managed the Monogram with enamel specially coated on reputation since 2008 when it won the first the cow leather was born. It was very colorful

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using light blue, pearl, red, green, violet, etc. celebrities’ favorite use including Grace Kelly rather than the conventional brown and gave a and Deborah Kerr(Joen, 2005)(Figure 4). The GG sporty and casual sense(“Louis Vuitton", canvas bag with the GRG web strap, which n.d.-b)(Figure 2). In 2001, LV designed made Gucci very famous in the world, was born fluorescent graffiti in collaboration with Stephen as Jackie bag because Jacqueline Kennedy Sprouse, which created a great sensation. In Onasis frequently used various versions of this S/S 2003, the Monogram Multi Color which was model in the 1960s(Figure 5). Then, Tom Ford, made of 36 different colors was offered in who has a fashion philosophy that ‘the first collaboration with Murakami Takashi, a Japanese elements to express every splendid things are graphic artist(Figure 3). ease and simplicity’ became Gucci’s creative director(1994-2004) and his camel canvas 2) Gucci Jackie bag(Choi & Kim, 2005) made a new image of luxury goods by grafting an original Gucci, founded by Guccio Gucci in 1923, concept into a modern and young image(Cho, began with leather products for horse riding and 2004). The travel luggage with Gucci’s signature made general leather products including a red and green trim colors was designed(Jaejin handbag(Yoo, 2004). Around the World War II, Lee, 2008)(Figure 6). his bags using canvas because of the lack of leather were appreciated as historical design and 3) Chanel Gucci was grown into a representative luxury brand in the 1950s-1970s. A "facing double G" Chanel originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Gucci logo used founder Guccio Gucci’s initials Chanel opened a millinery shop at 160 to image Gucci brand after the World War Boulevard Malesherbes in Paris. In 1913, she II(Joen, 2005). The Bamboo bag, Gucci’s opened the first boutique shop in Deauville, a signature product which was launched in 1947 resort town and offered sports clothes. In 1915, was made of pig leather and Japanese bamboo, she created sporty clothes using soft and which was only imported instead of general flexible jersey cloth which was used only for leather to replenish deficient resources because underwear to allow women’s free movement(M. of the World War II. It became famous by the Lee, 1998). Coco Chanel who frequently quoted

Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 3. Speedy 30 Bag Vernis Bag, 1998 Multicolor Speedy 30 Bag -http://kr.louisvuitton.com –Handbags, p.50 -http://kr.louisvuitton. com

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from Paul Valery's dictum that “a woman who shoulder strap. A chain strap was inspired from doesn't wear perfume has no future”(M. Lee, the sister’s key holder dangling from the 1998) launched No. 5, an artificial perfume for waste(Design Museum, 2011). The Chanel the first time in the world in 1921("Chanel", n.d.) Classic Bag which is Chanel’s traditional basic With the addition of the accessory line in 1934, style is called the Chanel 2.55. It has a square she offered a total look. In 1954, she designed lock and uses twisted metal shoulder chains like the Chanel suit using tweed from Scotland(Jeon, a chain. Since Karl Lagerfeld’s succession to 2005). It recreated sophistication by applying a the Chanel house, Chanel’s classic design braid in many different ways, such as a ribbon, became more daring and brighter. In particular, scallops, or a frayed edge. The quilted-leather a metal shoulder chain was transformed into ‘a handbag(Figure 7) with gold chains was gilt chain’ and a black quilted leather bag with presented in February 1955(M. Lee, 1998). The gilt chains has become a synonym for gold chain quilted-leather handbag(Figure 8) is Chanel(Figure 9). The design characteristics that an important item to complete a total look which have the identity of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and cannot be separated from a Chanel style. It has Chanel bags are shown in Table 1. been loved by women above the times. For women always carrying the handbag in hand, a Chanel shoulder bag had their hands free with a

Figure 4. Figure 5. Figure 6. Cane Bag, 1969 Gucci bag Web Embroidered Bag -, p.58 -Handbags, p.52 –www.gucci.com

Figure 7. Figure 8. Figure 9. Gabrielle Chanel Chanel 2.55 Bag Iconic Bag -http://inside.chanel.com -http://www.chanel.com -http://www.chanel.com

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Table 1. The Design Characteristics that Consist of the Bag Identity of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel Brand Design characteristics Images - Starting with making a travel luggage in 1854. - Pursuing the dignity, convenience, and practicality of a travel. - A checked Damier canvas. - Using a monogram with LV and flower patterns combined for Louis canvas, synthetic leather, and enamel(Vernis). Vuitton - Attaching a grip without a shoulder strap. - The Speedy bag with ample storage space - Using brown as main color. - Using many different colors by Marc Jacobs in 1997. - Collaboration with artists - Starting with making leather products for horse riding in 1923. - Pursuing strength and comfort for safety in horse riding. - Leather handbags Gucci - Making canvas bags using a GG logo. - Using beige as main color. - Launching the Bamboo bag using Japanese bamboo. - Using a GRG web strap by Tom Ford in the GG canvas. - Starting with making hats in 1909. - Pursuing functionality to have working women’s hands free. - First invention of a shoulder bag. - A metal shoulder chain strap twisted like a chain. - Using quilted leather. Chanel - Using black as main color. - Using the CC logo instead of the existing square buckle and a gilt chain strap with leather inserted in the metal chain by Karl Lagerfeld. - Providing a clue to be established as an important item element for the total fashion.

Ⅲ. The Design Analysis of Luxury to S/S 2016 collection. Photos were sampled in Brand Bags the Prêt-à-Porter Close-Up at www.vogue.co.uk. and finally 1,087 photos were selected except 1. Method of Analysis the ones overlapped or impossible for analysis. The methods to analyze the kinds, shapes, The subjects to analyze the design of luxury colors, materials, patterns, and the ornament of brand bags were Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and bags were as follows. The kinds and shapes of Chanel bags which were always included in top the bags were based on the classification by five brands based on the rank selected as high Jeon(2005). The kinds of bags were divided into value luxury brands for resenting several years grip bag, , clutch bag, shoulder bag, and presented for 10 years from S/S 2007 collection boston bag, evening bag, , messenger

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bag, travel bag and other types. The shapes 2. The Results of the Analysis and Discussion were divided into square, cylinder, round, triangle, trapezoid, sack, polygon, and others 1) Kinds of Luxury Brand Bags according to bag’s front silhouette. The colors were classified into achromatic and chromatic The results of analyzing the kinds of bags by color. The chromatic color included 10 colors of brand are shown in Table 2. In Chanel, shoulder the Munsell Color Order System such as R(red), bag(39.5%) was the most common, followed by YR(yellow red), Y(yellow), GY(green yellow), evening bag(27.2%), clutch bag(11.0%), tote G(green), BG(blue green), B(blue), PB(purple bag(7.8%), backpack(4.2%), others(4.2%), grip blue), P(purple), and PR(purple red). The bag(3.6%), (1.3%), travel achromatic color included Wh(white), Gr(gray), bag(0.9%), boston bag(0.3%). In Gucci, a and Bk(black) and the item of ‘transparent color’ shoulder bag(37.9%) was the most common, was added to subdivide the use of a transparent followed by clutch bag(16.5%), grip bag(16.0%), . Materials were divided into texture tote bag(9.2%), boston bag(7.3%), evening and fabric. The texture included leather, patent, bag(5.3%), messenger bag(3.4%), fur, PVC, beads and others based on the backpack(2.4%), others(2.0%). In Louis Vuitton, classification by Jeon(2005) and Jang(2008). a shoulder bag(26.5%) was found most Fabrics were subdivided into velvet, tweed, and commonly, followed by tote bag(24.7%), grip canvas. The patterns were divided into plain and bag(13.7%), boston bag(13.5%), clutch pattern based on the classification by Lee & bag(8.5%), evening bag(6.7%), messenger Park(2014) and Park et al. (2013). The patterns bag(3.0%), travel bag(2.6%), back pack(0.8%). included natural, geometric, symbol, and Based on the above results, while a shoulder abstract patterns. The natural patterns included bag was the most common in Chanel, Gucci, flower and animal and the geometric patterns and Louis Vuitton. The most frequent use of a included stripe, dot, and figure. The symbolic shoulder bag is perhaps associated with patterns included logo and letters(Jang, 2008). Chanel’s first offering of a shoulder bag to have The ornaments were classified into metal, plain, working women’s hands free. In Louis Vuitton, handicraft, and multiple based on the not only the shoulder bag, but also the tote bag classification by Jang(2008). and the Boston bag appeared more than other brands, which is considered to be connected

Table 2. Kinds of Luxury Brand Bags N(%) Grip Clutch Shoulder Boston Evening Back Messenger Travel Brand Tote Bag Others Total Bag Bag Bag Bag Bag pack bag Bag

Chanel 11(3.6) 24(7.8) 34(11.0) 122(39.5) 1(0.3) 84(27.2) 13(4.2) 4(1.3) 3(0.9) 13(4.2) 309(100.0)

Gucci 33(16.0) 19(9.2) 34(16.5) 78(37.9) 15(7.3) 11(5.3) 5(2.4) 7(3.4) 0(0.0) 4(2.0) 206(100.0)

LV 79(13.7) 142(24.7) 46(8.5) 152(26.5) 78(13.5) 38(6.7) 5(0.8) 17(3.0) 15(2.6) 0(0.0) 572(100.0)

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with the design philosophy of the brand that As shown in Table 4, Gucci has continuously originated from the travel luggage. shown the shoulder bag every year. In particular, The changes in the kinds of bags were high frequency was shown from 2011 to examined by year. As shown in Table 3, Chanel 2012(Figure 13) and from 2014 to 2015. During presented a shoulder bag(Figure 10), (Figure 11) the years except the above periods, many most commonly every year except 2009. The different kinds of bags appeared each time: the frequency was decreased from 2008 but boston bag(Figure 14) in 2007, the tote bag in decreased from 2012, which was symmetrical 2008, the messenger bag in 2009, the grip with the change curve of a evening bag(Figure bag(Figure 15) in 2010 and 2016, and the clutch 12). A evening bag commonly appeared in 2012 bag in 2013. This is because the Gucci brand is and 2014 in modern and minimal design under considered to be sensitive to trends according the influence of the fashion trends of boyish to the fashion season and to change the shape and casual look. It suggests that a shoulder bag of bags in various ways. which was born by practicality and a minimal evening bag are used to express Chanel’s femininity.

Table 3. Kinds of Chanel Bags by Years N(%) Grip Clutch Shoulder Boston Evening Back Messenger Travel Year Tote Bag Others Total Bag Bag Bag Bag Bag pack bag Bag 2007 0(0.0) 2(6.9) 1(3.5) 15(51.6) 0(0.0) 9(40.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(6.9) 29(100.0) 2008 0(0.0) 1(6.7) 1(6.7) 7(46.6) 0(0.0) 6(40.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 15(100.0) 2009 0(0.0) 7(38.9) 2(11.1) 6(33.3) 0(0.0) 2(11.1) 1(5.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 18(100.0) 2010 1(2.9) 5(14.7) 2(5.9) 14(41.2) 0(0.0) 8(23.5) 2(5.9) 0(0.0) 1(2.9) 1(2.9) 34(100.0) 2011 0(0.0) 1(3.3) 5(16.7) 12(40.0) 0(0.0) 8(26.6) 0(0.0) 4(13.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 30(100.0) 2012 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 6(15.8) 8(20.1) 0(0.0) 20(52.6) 4(10.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 38(100.0) 2013 4(10.8) 1(2.7) 8(21.6) 10(27.0) 0(0.0) 9(24.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(2.7) 4(10.8) 37(100.0) 2014 2(4.7) 7(16.3) 2(4.7) 12(27.9) 0(0.0) 12(27.9) 6(14.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(4.7) 43(100.0) 2015 2(4.3) 0(0.0) 7(15.2) 25(54.3) 1(2.2) 9(19.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(4.3) 46(100.0) 2016 2(10.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 13(68.4) 0(0.0) 1(5.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.3) 2(10.5) 19(100.0)

Figure 10. Figure 11. Figure 12. 2007 S/S Shoulder Bag 2016 S/S Shoulder Bag 2012 S/S Evening Bag -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com

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Table 4. Kinds of Gucci Bags by Years N(%) Grip Clutch Shoulder Boston Evening Back Messenger Travel Year Tote Bag Others Total Bag Bag Bag Bag Bag pack bag Bag 2007 7(26.9) 2(7.7) 3(11.5) 4(15.4) 10(38.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 26(100.0) 2008 0(0.0) 8(47.1) 3(17.7) 2(11.8) 0(0.0) 4(23.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 17(100.0) 2009 1(5.6) 0(0.0) 2(11.1) 5(27.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(22.2) 6(33.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 18(100.0) 2010 5(33.3) 2(13.3) 4(26.7) 4(26.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 15(100.0) 2011 2(5.1) 3(7.6) 6(15.4) 20(51.2) 5(12.9) 1(2.6) 1(2.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(2.6) 39(100.0) 2012 3(16.7) 0(0.0) 3(16.7) 8(44.4) 0(0.0) 4(22.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 18(100.0) 2013 5(25.0) 1(5.0) 8(40.0) 4(20.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.0) 20(100.0) 2014 0(0.0) 3(13.6) 5(22.7) 12(54.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(4.6) 0(0.0) 1(4.6) 22(100.0) 2015 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 14(100) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 14(100.0) 2016 10(58.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 5(29.4) 0(0.0) 1(5.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.9) 17(100.0)

Figure 13. Figure 14. Figure 15. 2011/12 F/W Shoulder Bag 2007/08 F/W Boston Bag 2016 S/S Grip Bag –www.vogue.com –www.vogue.com –www.vogue.com

As shown in Table 5, in Louis Vuitton, the Taken together, the shoulder bag was the shoulder bag accounted for a high percentage most common in Chanel, Gucci, and Louis from 2008 to 2009, and 2015(Figure 16) and the Vuitton bags. Chanel showed a lot more tote bag(Figure 17) did in 2007, 2010, 2013, shoulder bags than various types of bags, and 2014. In 2010, however, not only the tote showing that the Chanel brand continues to bag, but also the messenger bag, which had inherit the value of Chanel's femininity, which not appeared in the past, appeared striking, was the first to develop a shoulder bag. Gucci probably due to the influence of the retro look. presented a variety of bags for each collection In 2012, the boston bag(Figure 18) showed a each season, which reflects trends through high frequency and the travel luggage that was changes in form. In the case of Louis Vuitton, not seen in other years first appeared. These there were some types of the travel luggage and characteristics are recognized as the efforts to the messenger bag that were rarely seen in enhance the brand identity by reinterpreting Chanel and Gucci, which seemed to reinterpret values such as elegance, convenience, and the brand history of the Louis Vuitton brand practicality of trips aimed at the Louis Vuitton from the travel luggage. In Chanel, a variety of brand. bags were decorated with quilting, a patchwork

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Table 5. Kinds of Louis Vuitton Bags by Years N(%) Grip Clutch Shoulder Boston Evening Back Messenger Travel Year Tote Bag Others Total Bag Bag Bag Bag Bag pack bag Bag 2007 5(10.9) 17(37.0) 8(17.4) 10(21.7) 5(10.8) 1(2.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 46(100.0) 2008 9(14.3) 11(17.5) 0(0.0) 31(49.2) 10(15.9) 2(11.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 63(100.0) 2009 6(10.0) 6(10.0) 11(18.3) 28(46.7) 1(1.7) 8(13.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 60(100.0) 2010 5(6.8) 30(41.1) 6(8.2) 9(12.3) 1(1.4) 1(1.4) 5(6.8) 16(21.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 73(100.0) 2011 1(2.2) 8(17.4) 12(26.1) 6(13.0) 3(6.5) 16(34.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 46(100.0) 2012 6(7.0) 9(10.6) 1(1.2) 5(5.9) 56(65.9) 1(1.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 7(8.2) 0(0.0) 85(100.0) 2013 5(7.7) 33(50.8) 3(4.6) 21(32.3) 0(0.0) 2(3.1) 0(0.0) 1(1.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 65(100.0) 2014 10(34.5) 10(34.5) 0(0.0) 5(17.2) 2(6.9) 2(6.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 29(100.0) 2015 12(17.2) 11(15.7) 5(7.1) 32(45.7) 0(0.0) 2(2.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 8(11.5) 0(0.0) 70(100.0) 2016 20(57.1) 7(20.0) 0(0.0) 5(14.3) 0(0.0) 3(8.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 35(100.0)

Figure 16. Figure 17. Figure 18. 2015 S/S Shoulder Bag 2013 S/S Tote Bag 2012 F/W Boston Bag –www.vogue.com –www.vogue.com –www.vogue.com

Table 6. Shapes of Luxury Brand Bags N(%) Square Cylinder Round Triangle Trapezoid Sack Polygon Others Total Chanel 232(75.1) 2(0.6) 9(3.0) 5(1.6) 1(0.3) 14(4.5) 3(1.0) 43(13.9) 309(100.0) Gucci 150(72.8) 2(1.0) 1(0.5) 2(1.0) 5(2.4) 19(9.2) 0(0.0) 27(13.1) 206(100.0) LV 412(72.0) 2(0.4) 20(3.5) 2(0.4) 59(10.3) 21(3.6) 48(8.4) 8(1.4) 572(100.0) using a logo, and a metal chain. In case of The results of analyzing the bag shapes by Gucci, the bag was decorated with a unique brand were shown in Table 6. Chanel’s most metal signature closure. Louis Vuitton also common shapes were square(75.1%)(Figure 19), frequently used metal decoration including others(13.9%), and sack(4.5%) and Gucci’s most symbolic tumbler locks, followed by a lot of common shapes were square(72.8%)(Figure 20) complex decorations. and others(13.1%). Louis Vuitton commonly used square(72.0%)(Figure 21), trapezoid(10.3%), and 2) Shapes of Luxury Brand Bags polygon(8.4%). The results suggest that a

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square shape was used most commonly. Given used achromatic color(57.9%) but chromatic that the next common shapes were other shapes color accounted for 61.3% and 60.0% in Chanel and Gucci and trapezoid in Louis respectively in Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Bk was Vuitton, Chanel and Gucci may pursue a freer the most common in Chanel and Gucci(24.3% shape than Louis Vuitton. and 22.2% respectively). While Chanel commonly The changes of shapes by year were used Wh(17.1%), Gr(16.5%), and Y(12.6%), examined. As shown in Table 7, Chanel Gucci frequently used Y(15.1%), YR(14.1%), and presented many square shapes in most Gr(12.6%) and Wh only accounted for 3.9%. collections except in 2008 and 2012. The most Louis Vuitton commonly used YR(18.5%) and various shapes of the bags were included in Bk(17.1%), followed by Wh(14.2%) and others in 2008(66.7%) and 2012(42.1%). Gucci Y(12.0%). The use of color agrees to each also offered a square bag most commonly. The brand’s symbolic color. In other words, Chanel’s next common shape, others were decreased frequent use of Bk and Wh implies its after 2011. A sack type was also decreased connection with Chanel’s symbolic color(Figure after 2012, suggesting that the Gucci bags 22) that started with a little black dress and become simple to square shapes. Louis Vuitton white camellia trimming presented in 1926. used a square shape most frequently every year. Gucci’s frequent use of Bk(Figure 23), Y, and The next frequent shapes were trapezoid and YR indicates the characteristics of brand color polygon, except in 2013 and 2016 when square design to emphasize a classical image using shapes appeared a lot. The results are very black together with the Jackie bag image(Choi, different from those of Chanel and Gucci bags 2005) made of camel canvas appearing in 1999 and indicate the important design feature of by Tom Ford. Louis Vuitton’s frequent use of Louis Vuitton bags. YR(Figure 24), Bk, and Wh may reflect design characteristics to succeed to the symbolic color 3) Colors of Luxury Brand Bags of the Speedy bag presented in 1930 and aim at brand identity with a new image. The color of the bags were examined by brand. As shown in Table 8, Chanel commonly

Figure 19. Figure 20. Figure 21. Chanel, 2014 S/S Gucci, 2016 S/S LV, 2015/16 F/W -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com

122 Jin­Hee Choi · Mi­Suk Lee / A Study on the Design Changes and the Acceptance of Identity on Luxury Brand Bags

Table 7. Shapes of Luxury Brand Bags by Years N(%)

Brand Year Square Cylinder Round Triangle Trapezoid Sack Polygon Others Total 2007 18(62.0) 1(3.5) 1(3.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(10.3) 0(0.0) 6(20.7) 29(100.0) 2008 3(20.0) 0(0.0) 1(6.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(6.7) 10(66.7) 15(100.0) 2009 17(94.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.6) 18(100.0) 2010 32(84.2) 1(2.6) 1(2.6) 0(0.0) 1(2.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(7.9) 38(100.0) 2011 23(88.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(3.8) 0(0.0) 2(7.7) 26(100.0) Chanel 2012 15(39.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(10.5) 0(0.0) 3(7.9) 0(0.0) 16(42.1) 38(100.0) 2013 33(89.2) 0(0.0) 3(8.1) 1(2.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 37(100.0) 2014 33(76.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(7.0) 2(4.7) 5(11.6) 43(100.0) 2015 41(89.1) 0(0.0) 1(2.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(8.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 46(100.0) 2016 17(89.5) 0(0.0) 2(10.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 19(100.0) 2007 14(53.9) 2(7.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 5(19.2) 0(0.0) 5(19.2) 26(100.0) 2008 11(64.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 6(35.3) 17(100.0) 2009 9(50.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.6) 2(11.1) 0(0.0) 2(11.1) 0(0.0) 4(22.2) 18(100.0) 2010 14(93.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(6.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 15(100.0) 2011 26(66.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(7.7) 0(0.0) 10(25.6) 39(100.0) Gucci 2012 12(66.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 5(27.8) 0(0.0) 1(5.5) 18(100.0) 2013 20(100) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 20(100.0) 2014 19(86.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(13.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 22(100.0) 2015 9(64.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 5(35.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 14(100.0) 2016 16(94.1) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.9) 17(100.0) 2007 41(89.1) 0(0.0) 1(2.3) 0(0.0) 2(4.3) 2(4.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 46(100.0) 2008 37(58.7) 1(1.6) 1(1.6) 1(1.6) 19(30.2) 1(1.6) 3(4.8) 0(0.0) 63(100.0) 2009 30(50.0) 0(0.0) 7(11.7) 1(1.7) 10(16.7) 8(13.3) 3(5.0) 1(6.8) 60(100.0) 2010 54(74.0) 0(0.0) 3(4.1) 0(0.0) 5(6.9) 6(8.2) 0(0.0) 5(6.9) 73(100.0) 2011 22(47.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 10(21.7) 0(0.0) 14(30.4) 0(0.0) 46(100.0) LV 2012 53(62.4) 0(0.0) 3(3.5) 0(0.0) 6(1.0) 0(0.0) 23(27.1) 0(0.0) 85(100.0) 2013 64(100.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 64(100.0) 2014 20(66.7) 0(0.0) 1(3.3) 0(0.0) 2(6.7) 0(0.0) 5(16.7) 2(6.7) 30(100.0) 2015 61(87.1) 0(0.0) 4(5.7) 0(0.0) 5(7.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 70(100.0) 2016 30(85.7) 1(2.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(11.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 35(100.0)

Table 8. Colors of Luxury Brand Bags N(%)

Chromatic Color Achromatic Color Transp Brand Total R YR Y GY G BG B PB P RP Wh Gr Bk arent 13 13 39 5 3 6 11 11 11 16 53 51 75 2 309 Chanel (4.2) (4.2) (12.6) (1.6) (1.0) (1.9) (3.6) (3.6) (3.6) (5.2) (17.1) (16.5) (24.3) (0.6) (100.0) 17 29 31 8 3 6 7 8 3 14 8 26 46 0 206 Gucci (8.2) (14.1) (15.1) (3.9) (1.5) (2.9) (3.4) (3.9) (1.5) (6.8) (3.9) (12.6) (22.2) (0.0) (100.0) 34 106 69 5 13 6 35 28 13 34 81 47 98 3 572 LV (6.0) (18.5) (12.0) (0.9) (2.3) (1.0) (6.1) (5.0) (2.3) (5.9) (14.2) (8.2) (17.1) (0.5) (100.0)

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Figure 22. Figure 23. Figure 24. Chanel, 2009/10 F/W Gucci, 2007/08 F/W LV, 2014/15 F/W -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com

Table 9. Colors of Chanel Bags by Years N(%) Chromatic Color Achromatic Color Transp Year Total R YR Y GY G BG B PB P RP Wh Gr Bk arent 0 0 4 0 1 0 1 0 2 0 4 3 13 1 29 2007 (0.0) (0.0) (13.9) (0.0) (3.4) (0.0) (3.4) (0.0) (6.9) (0.0) (13.9) (10.3) (44.8) (3.4) (100.0) 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 3 7 0 15 2008 (6.7) (0.0) (6.7) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (20.0) (20.0) (46.6) (0.0) (100.0) 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 4 3 7 0 18 2009 (5.6) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (16.7) (22.2) (16.7) (38.8) (0.0) (100.0) 0 3 12 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 9 5 6 0 38 2010 (0.0) (7.9) (31.6) (0.0) (0.0) (2.6) (2.6) (0.0) (0.0) (2.6) (23.7) (13.2) (15.8) (0.0) (100.0) 0 0 5 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 8 5 5 0 26 2011 (0.0) (0.0) (19.2) (3.8) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (3.8) (3.8) (30.8) (19.2) (19.2) (0.0) (100.0) 1 1 6 1 0 4 0 1 6 2 4 10 2 0 38 2012 (2.6) (2.6) (15.8) (2.6) (0.0) (10.5) (0.0) (2.6) (15.8) (5.3) (10.5) (26.3) (5.3) (0.0) (100.0) 6 0 2 0 0 0 3 3 0 3 4 3 12 1 37 2013 (16.2) (0.0) (5.4) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (8.1) (8.1) (0.0) (8.1) (10.8) (8.1) (32.4) (2.7) (100.0) 1 7 3 0 0 1 3 2 1 6 5 10 4 0 43 2014 (2.3) (16.3) (7.0) (0.0) (0.0) (2.3) (7.0) (4.7) (2.3) (14.0) (11.6) (23.2) (9.3) (0.0) (100.0) 2 2 6 3 2 0 3 1 1 0 8 3 15 0 46 2015 (4.3) (4.3) (13.0) (6.5) (4.3) (0.0) (6.5) (2.2) (2.2) (0.0) (17.4 (6.5) (32.6) (0.0) (100.0) 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 4 6 4 0 19 2016 (5.1) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (21.1) (0.0) (0.0) (21.1) (31.6) (21.1) (0.0) (100.0)

The changes of colors by year were examined. Wh(symbolic colors) and Gr(achromatic color). As shown in Table 9, Chanel used Bk most As shown in Table 10, Gucci used Bk most commonly in 2007-2009, 2013, and 2015; frequently in 2007, 2008, 2012, and 2013. In Y(31.6%) in 2010; Wh(30.8%) in 2011; and 2007, Bk(26.8%) was commonly used for the Gr(26.3%) in 2012. Since 2010, it has used Boston bag which reflected sportism in the various colors with Bk. The most important 1980s. In 2008 when a gladiator sandal came characteristic of Chanel bag is to enhance a into vogue, a large Bk tote bag accounted for neutral and new bourgeois image using Bk and 58.8%. Unlike Chanel bags using achromatic

124 Jin­Hee Choi · Mi­Suk Lee / A Study on the Design Changes and the Acceptance of Identity on Luxury Brand Bags

colors such as Bk, Wh, and Gr, Gucci applied The changes of materials by year were YR, Y, RP, and R as well as Bk to express examined. As shown in Table 13, Chanel used various images. leather and patent most commonly except in As shown in Table 11, Louis Vuitton used YR 2008 and 2016. Plastic which appeared most most commonly in 2007 and 2010-2013 and Bk commonly in 2008 was constantly used every in 2014-2016. Louis Vuitton applied brown in the year except in 2007, 2011, and 2016. In 2016, monogram bag with a ‘LV’ logo until 2013 but tweed accounted for 52.6%. Tweed is the Nicolas Ghesquière, a new designer of Louis important keyword of Chanel house’s identity Vuitton, designed many Bk bags. It indicates and its frequent use can be interpreted as a being released from the use of symbolic colors. part of the total fashion in the collection based on a tweed suit. 4) Materials of Luxury Brand Bags As shown in Table 14, Gucci used leather in most collections. In 2008 and 2009, The materials of the bags were analyzed by patent(41.2% and 61.1%, respectively) was used brand. As shown in Table 12, Chanel commonly more frequently than leather under the influence used leather(31.0%)(Figure 25), patent(23.9%), of a trend that emphasized sexiness and fabric(15.2%), plastic(12.0%) and others(9.8%). splendor. It is interpreted as a design strategy Gucci commonly used leather(62.6%)(Figure 26), to represent Gucci’s identity that first made a patent(26.2%), and PVC(6.8%). Louis Vuitton leather handbag and pursue modern design preferred patent(41.4%) (Figure 27) to leather applying a modern image of patent. (31.1%) and often used PVC(13.7%).

Table 10. Colors of Gucci Bags by Years N(%) Chromatic Color Achromatic Color Transp Year Total R YR Y GY G BG B PB P RP Wh Gr Bk arent 1 5 1 0 0 0 0 2 1 1 2 6 7 0 26 2007 (3.9) (19.2) (3.9) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (7.7) (3.9) (3.9) (7.7) (23.0) (26.8) (0.0) (100.0) 0 3 3 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 10 0 17 2008 (0.0) (17.6) (17.6) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (5.9) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (58.8) (0.0) (100.0) 1 1 2 0 1 0 2 0 0 0 1 6 4 0 18 2009 (5.6) (5.6) (11.1) (0.0) (5.6) (0.0) (11.1) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (5.6) (33.3) (22.1) (0.0) (100.0) 0 1 2 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 5 2 0 15 2010 (0.0) (6.7) (13.3) (13.3) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (20.0) (33.4) (13.3) (0.0) (100.0) 2 10 10 3 1 1 1 0 0 4 0 0 7 0 39 2011 (5.1) (25.6) (25.6) (7.7) (2.6) (2.6) (2.6) (0.0) (0.0) (10.3) (0.0) (0.0) (17.9) (0.0) (100.0) 0 0 2 0 1 0 0( 3 0 0 1 1 10 0 18 2012 (0.0) (0.0) (11.1) (0.0) (5.6) (0.0) 0.0) (16.6) (0.0) (0.0) (5.6) (5.6) (55.5) (0.0) (100.0) 3 3 2 1 0 0 2 2 0 3 0 0 4 0 20 2013 (15.0) (15.0) (10.0) (5.0) (0.0) (0.0) (10.0) (10.0) (0.0) (15.0) (0.0) (0.0) (20.0) (0.0) (100.0) 6 0 3 1 0 0 1 0 2 6 1 0 2 0 22 2014 (27.4) (0.0) (13.7) (4.5) (0.0) (0.0) (4.5) (0.0) (9.0) (27.4) (4.5) (0.0) (9.0) (0.0) (100.0) 1 5 3 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 14 2015 (7.1) (35.7) (21.5) (7.1) (0.0) (0.0) (7.1) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (21.5) (0.0) (0.0) (100.0) 3 1 3 0 0 1 0 4 0 0 0 5 0 0 17 2016 (17.6) (5.9) (17.6) (0.0) (0.0) (5.9) (0.0) (23.5) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (29.5) (0.0) (0.0) (100.0)

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Table 11. Colors of Louis Vuitton Bags by Years N(%) Chromatic Color Achromatic Color Transp Year Total R YR Y GY G BG B PB P RP Wh Gr Bk arent 4 9 3 0 0 0 3 4 0 1 5 9 8 0 46 2007 (8.7) (19.6) (6.5) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (6.5) (8.7) (0.0) (2.2) (10.9) (19.6) (17.4) (0.0) (100.0) 3 10 4 0 1 0 3 3 0 5 14 8 11 1 63 2008 (4.8) (15.9) (6.3) (0.0) (1.6) (0.0) (4.8) (4.8) (0.0) (7.9) (22.2) (12.7) (17.5) (1.6) (100.0) 2 7 16 1 4 0 6 3 0 4 1 4 12 0 60 2009 (3.3) (11.7) (26.7) (1.7) (6.7) (0.0) (10.0) (5.0) (0.0) (6.7) (1.7) (6.7) (20.0) (0.0) (100.0) 3 18 8 3 3 1 8 1 0 9 10 4 5 0 73 2010 (4.1) (24.7) (10.9) (4.1) (4.1) (1.4) (10.9) (4.1) (0.0) (12.3) (13.7) (5.5) (6.8) (0.0) (100.0) 6 11 7 0 0 1 4 2 3 2 3 3 4 0 46 2011 (13.0) (23.9) (15.2) (0.0) (0.0) (2.2) (8.7) (4.4) (6.5) (4.4) (6.5) (6.5) (8.7) (0.0) (100.0) 8 15 10 0 1 0 4 4 6 5 14 5 11 2 85 2012 (9.4) (17.6) (11.8) (0.0) (1.2) (0.0) (4.7) (4.7) (7.1) (5.9) (16.5) (5.9) (12.8) (2.4) (100.0) 0 13 11 1 2 2 2 6 3 2 13 4 5 0 64 2013 (0.0) (20.3) (17.2) (1.6) (3.1) (3.1) (3.1) (9.4) (4.7) (3.1) (20.3) (6.2) (7.8) (0.0) (100.0) 2 7 2 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 5 1 11 0 30 2014 (6.7) (23.3) (6.7) (0.0) (0.0) (0.0) (3.3) (3.3) (0.0) (0.0) (16.7) (3.3) (36.7) (0.0) (100.0) 4 13 8 0 1 2 3 2 1 3 13 6 14 0 70 2015 (5.7) (18.6) (11.4) (0.0) (1.4) (2.9) (4.3) (2.9) (1.4) (4.3) (18.6) (8.6) (20.0) (0.0) (100.0) 2 3 0 0 1 0 1 2 0 3 3 3 17 0 35 2016 (5.6) (8.6) (0.0) (0.0) (2.9) (0.0) (2.9) (5.6) (0.0) (8.6) (8.6) (8.6) (48.6) (0.0) (100.0)

Table 12. Materials of Luxury Brand Bags N(%) Fabrics Brand Leather Patent Fur PVC Beads Canton Plastic Others Total Velvet Tweed Canvas Chanel 96(31.0) 74(23.9) 7(2.3) 10(3.2) 4(1.3) 4(1.3) 37(12.0) 7(2.3) 22(7.1) 18(5.8) 30(9.8) 309(100.0) Gucci 129(62.6) 54(26.2) 0(0.0) 14(6.8) 8(3.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(0.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 206(100.0) LV 178(31.1) 237(41.4) 22(3.8)78(13.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(0.2) 12(2.1) 0(0.0) 35(6.1) 9(1.6) 572(100.0)

Figure 25. Figure 26. Figure 27. Chanel, 2015/16 F/W Gucci, 2016 S/S LV, 2007 S/S -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com

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Table 13. Material of Chanel Bags by Years N(%) Fabrics Year Leather Patent Fur PVC Beads Canton Plastic Others Total Velvet Tweed Canvas 2007 7(24.2) 12(41.5) 0(0.0) 4(13.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(3.5) 0(0.0) 1(3.5) 4(13.8) 29(100.0) 2008 1(6.7) 2(13.3) 0(0.0) 1(6.7) 1(6.7) 0(0.0) 7(46.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(20.0) 15(100.0) 2009 3(16.7) 5(27.8) 0(0.0) 2(11.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(16.7) 0(0.0) 2(11.8) 0(0.0) 3(16.7) 18(100.0) 2010 10(29.4) 5(14.7) 7(20.6) 1(2.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(8.8) 0(0.0) 1(2.9) 3(8.8) 4(11.8) 34(100.0) 2011 9(34.6) 9(34.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(7.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(7.7) 0(0.0) 4(15.4) 26(100.0) 2012 3(8.3) 15(39.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 6(15.8) 5(13.2) 1(2.6) 3(8.3) 5(13.2) 38(100.0) 2013 26(63.4) 1(2.4) 0(0.0) 1(2.4) 0(0.0) 4(9.8) 4(9.8) 0(0.0) 1(2.4) 2(4.9) 2(4.9) 41(100.0) 2014 16(37.2) 13(30.2) 0(0.0) 1(2.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 6(14.0) 1(2.3) 0(0.0) 5(13.2) 1(2.3) 43(100.0) 2015 18(39.1) 7(15.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(2.2) 0(0.0) 8(17.4) 0(0.0) 5(10.9) 4(9.0) 3(6.5) 46(100.0) 2016 3(15.8) 5(26.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 10(52.6) 0(0) 1(5.3) 19(100.0)

Table 14. Material of Gucci Bags by Years N(%) Fabrics Year Leather Patent Fur PVC Beads Canton Plastic Others Total Velvet Tweed Canvas 2007 11(42.3) 9(34.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 6(23.1) 26(100.0) 2008 5(29.4) 7(41.2) 0(0.0) 4(23.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.9) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 17(100.0) 2009 3(16.7) 1(61.1) 0(0.0) 3(16.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.5) 8(100.0) 2010 10(66.7) 4(26.7) 0(0.0) 1(6.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 15(100.0) 2011 9(74.4) 9(23.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(2.6) 39(100.0) 2012 3(72.2) 5(27.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 18(100.0) 2013 9(95.0) 1(5.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 20(100.0) 2014 1(95.4) 1(4.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 22(100.0) 2015 0(71.4) 2(14.3) 0(0.0) 2(14.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 14(100.0) 2016 8(47.1) 5(29.4) 0(0.0) 4(23.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 17(100.0)

As shown in Table 15, Louis Vuitton commonly preferred a pattern. Chanel used plain used patent in 2009 and 2013-2016, leather in (56.0%)(Figure 28) most commonly, followed by 2008, 2011, and 2012, and PVC in 2007 and logo(17.8%), stripe(12.9%), abstract(7.1%), 2010. Fabric materials were increased in 2007 figure(3.9%) and flower(2.3%). Gucci commonly and decreased in 2013 when PVC was increased used plain(74.8%)(Figure 29), logo(9.2%), again under the influence of classical and abstract(5.3%) animal(4.8%), and figure(1.5%). minimal trends. Louis Vuitton frequently used logo(40.7%)(Figure 30), plain(39.7%), stripe(10.1%), animal(2.6%), 5) Patterns of Luxury Brand Bags abstract(2.5%) and letter(2.1%). The pattern analysis applied for luxury brand bags suggests The patterns of bags were analyzed by brand. that Chanel’s quilted bag, Gucci’s Jackie bag, As shown in Table 16, while Chanel and Gucci and Louis Vuitton’s logo bag reflect their identity commonly used a plain pattern, Louis Vuitton and design characteristics.

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Table 15. Material of Louis Vuitton Bags by Years N(%) Fabrics Year Leather Patent Fur PVC Beads Canton Plastic Others Total Velvet Tweed Canvas 2007 5(10.9) 17(37.0) 0(0.0) 18(39.1) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(8.7) 2(4.3) 46(100.0) 2008 24(38.1) 22(34.9) 0(0.0) 10(15.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 7(11.1) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 63(100.0) 2009 14(23.3) 32(53.3) 0(0.0) 4(6.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(6.7) 0(0.0) 6(10.0) 0(0.0) 60(100.0) 2010 17(23.3) 14(19.2) 3(4.1) 25(34.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 13(17.8) 1(1.4) 73(100.0) 2011 25(54.3) 13(28.3) 0(0.0) 7(15.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(2.2) 46(100.0) 2012 36(42.4) 27(31.8) 10(8.5) 3(3.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 9(10.6) 0(0.0) 85(100.0) 2013 19(29.7) 32(50.0) 6(9.4) 4(6.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(1.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(3.1) 0(0.0) 64(100.0) 2014 5(16.7) 19(63.3) 0(0.0) 2(6.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(3.3) 0(0.0) 1(3.3) 2(6.7) 30(100.0) 2015 18(25.7) 43(61.4) 3(4.3) 3(4.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(4.3) 70(100.0) 2016 15(42.9) 18(51.4) 0(0.0) 2(5.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 35(100.0)

Table 16. Patterns of Luxury Brand Bags N(%) Patterns Brand Plain Natural Geometric Symbol Total Abstract Flower Animal Stripe Dot Figure Logo Letters Chanel 173(56.0) 7(2.3) 0(0.0) 40(12.9) 0(0.0) 12(3.9) 55(17.8) 0(0.0) 22(7.1) 309(100.0) Gucci 154(74.8) 6(2.9) 10(4.8) 3(1.5) 0(0.0) 3(1.5) 19(9.2) 0(0.0) 11(5.3) 206(100.0) LV 227(39.7) 5(0.9) 15(2.6) 58(10.1) 3(0.5) 5(0.9) 233(40.7) 12(2.1) 14(2.5) 572(100.0)

Figure 28. Figure 29. Figure 30. Chanel, 2011 S/S Gucci, 2013/14 F/W LV, 2011/12 F/W -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com

The changes of patterns by year were pattern most commonly from 2007 to 2015 but examined. As shown in Table 17, Chanel bags logo(41.2%) was applied most commonly in commonly used a plain pattern from 2007 to 2016. It is very different from Chanel bags that 2013 but logo accounted for 46.5% in 2014 and used a logo most frequently in 2014. It may stripe accounted for 37.0% and 47.4% suggest that the handle and logo pattern of the respectively in 2015 and 2016. Bamboo bag in the 1950s are reinterpreted in As shown in Table 18, Gucci used a plain Gucci’s simple square shape.

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Table 17. Patterns of Chanel Bags by Years N(%) Patterns Year Plain Natural Geometric Symbol Total Abstract Flower Animal Strip Dot Figure Logo Letters 2007 21(72.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(3.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(13.8) 0(0.0) 3(10.3) 29(100.0) 2008 12(80.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(13.3) 0(0.0) 1(6.7) 15(100.0) 2009 12(66.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(16.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(16.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 18(100.0) 2010 25(65.8) 2(5.3) 0(0.0) 5(13.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 5(13.2) 0(0.0) 1(2.6) 38(100.0) 2011 17(65.5) 1(3.8) 0(0.0) 3(11.5) 0(0.0) 3(11.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(7.7) 26(100.0) 2012 33(86.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(2.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(10.5) 38(100.0) 2013 19(51.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 15(40.5) 0(0.0) 3(8.1) 37(100.0) 2014 15(34.9) 1(2.3) 0(0.0) 1(2.3) 0(0.0) 4(9.3) 20(46.5) 0(0.0) 2(4.7) 43(100.0) 2015 14(30.4) 3(1.5) 0(0.0) 17(37.0) 0(0.0) 2(4.3) 6(13.0) 0(0.0) 4(8.7) 46(100.0) 2016 5(26.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 9(47.4) 0(0.0) 3(15.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(10.5) 19(100.0)

Table 18. Patterns of Gucci Bags by Years N(%) Patterns Year Plain Natural Geometric Symbol Total Abstract Flower Animal Strip Dot Figure Logo Letters 2007 21(80.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(11.5) 0(0.0) 2(7.7) 26(100.0) 2008 11(64.8) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(17.6) 3(17.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 17(100.0) 2009 13(72.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(16.6) 0(0.0) 2(11.1) 18(100.0) 2010 12(80.0) 0(0.0) 1(6.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 2(13.4) 15(100.0) 2011 36(92.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(7.7) 39(100.0) 2012 13(72.3) 2(11.1) 2(11.1) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 1(5.5) 18(100.0) 2013 17(85.0) 0(0.0) 3(15.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 20(100.0) 2014 18(81.8) 0(0.0) 4(18.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 22(100.0) 2015 11(78.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 3(21.5) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 14(100.0) 2016 2(11.7) 4(23.6) 0(0.0) 3(17.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 7(41.2) 0(0.0) 1(5.9) 17(100.0)

As shown in Table 19, Louis Vuitton frequently used complex(37.9%) (Figure 31), handicraft used patterns repeatedly using a monogram (34.6%), metal(18.8%) and plain(8.7%) pattern from 2007 to 2011. However, since Ornaments. Gucci commonly used metal(66.0%) 2012, design has been changed by emphasizing (Figure 32), complex(19.9%), plain(7.8%) and a tumbler lock with a plain pattern or using handicraft(6.3%) Ornaments. Louis Vuitton stripes. Damier check applying in 2013 is the commonly used metal(29.2%)(Figure 33), pattern which represents Louis Vuitton’s identity. handicraft(25.9%), plain(23.7%) and complex It suggests the modern reinterpretation of Louis (21.2%) Ornaments. Chanel bags were trimmed in Vuitton’s unique symbolic element. various ways by combining quilting and patchwork using the logo with metal chains. Gucci bags 6) Ornament of Luxury Brand Bags were trimmed using its unique metal signature closure. Louis Vuitton also used its symbolic The Ornament of the bags were analyzed by tumbler lock and metal Ornament was used most brand. As shown in Table 20, Chanel commonly commonly, followed by complex Ornament.

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Table 19 Patterns of Louis Vuitton Bags by Years N(%) Patterns Year Plain Natural Geometric Symbol Total Abstract Flower Animal Strip Dot Figure Logo Letters 2007 14(30.4) 1(2.2) 0(0.0) 4(8.7) 3(6.5) 0(0.0) 18(39.2) 2(4.3) 4(8.7) 46(100.0) 2008 1(1.6) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 54(85.7) 8(12.7) 0(0.0) 63(100.0) 2009 5(8.3) 0(0.0) 1(1.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 52(86.7) 0(0.0) 2(3.3) 60(100.0) 2010 20(27.4) 0(0.0) 1(1.4) 6(8.2) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 45(61.6) 1(1.4) 0(0.0) 73(100.0) 2011 15(32.6) 3(6.5) 0(0.0) 8(17.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 17(37.0) 0(0.0) 3(6.5) 46(100.0) 2012 53(62.3) 0(0.0) 1(1.2) 1(1.2) 0(0.0) 1(1.2) 29(34.1) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 85(100.0) 2013 29(45.3) 0(0.0) 6(9.3) 29(45.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 64(100.0) 2014 16(53.3) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 4(13.3) 0(0.0) 3(10.0) 7(23.4) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 30(100.0) 2015 54(77.1) 1(1.4) 2(2.9) 4(5.7) 0(0.0) 1(1.4) 4(5.7) 1(1.4) 3(42.8) 70(100.0) 2016 20(57.2) 0(0.0) 4(11.4) 2(5.7) 0(0.0) 0(0.0) 7(20.0) 0(0.0) 2(5.7) 35(100.0)

Table 20. Ornament of Luxury Brand Bags N(%) Brand Metal Handicraft Complex Plain Total Chanel 58(18.8) 107(34.6) 117(37.9) 27(8.7) 309(100.0) Gucci 136(66.0) 13(6.3) 41(19.9) 16(7.8) 206(100.0) LV 167(29.2) 148(25.9) 121(21.2) 136(23.7) 572(100.0)

Figure 31. Figure 32. Figure 33. Chanel, 2008/09 F/W Gucci 2013 S/S LV, 2012/13 F/W -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com -www.vogue.com

The changes of Ornaments by year were tassels and metal chains. In 2014 when a casual examined. As shown in Table 21, Chanel trend came into vogue, plastic Ornament was commonly used complex Ornament in 2008, frequently used for and it contributed 2010-2012, and 2015, handicraft Ornament in to the high rate of handicraft Ornament. To sum 2013-2015, and metal Ornament in 2007, 2009, up, Chanel bags are mainly trimmed with quilting and 2016. Complex Ornament included combined and metal chains.

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Table 21. Ornament of Chanel Bags by Years N(%) Year Metal Handicraft Complex Plain Total 2007 11 (38.0) 9 (31.0) 7 (24.1) 2 (6.9) 29 (100.0) 2008 2 (13.4) 4 (26.8) 5 (33.3) 4 (26.8) 15 (100.0) 2009 7 (38.9) 5 (27.8) 6 (33.3) 0 (0.0) 18 (100.0) 2010 6 (15.8) 8 (21.1) 20 (52.6) 4 (10.5) 38 (100.0) 2011 7 (26.9) 3 (11.5) 16 (61.6) 0 (0.0) 26 (100.0) 2012 8 (21.1) 6 (15.8) 18 (47.3) 6(15.8) 38 (100.0) 2013 2 (5.4) 21 (56.8) 13 (35.1) 1 (2.7) 37 (100.0) 2014 1 (2.3) 29 (67.4) 9 (20.9) 4 (9.3) 43 (100.0) 2015 5 (10.9) 17 (37.0) 17 (37.0) 7 (15.1) 46 (100.0) 2016 8 (42.1) 5 (26.3) 5 (26.3) 1 (5.3) 19 (100.0)

Table 22. Ornament of Gucci Bags by Years N(%) Year Metal Handicraft Complex Plain Total 2007 20(77.0) 0(0.0) 3(1.5) 3(1.5) 26 (100.0) 2008 13(76.5) 1(5.9) 0(0.0) 3(17.6) 17 (100.0) 2009 9(50.0) 0(0.0) 4(22.2) 5(27.8) 18 (100.0) 2010 11(73.3) 1(6.7) 2(13.3) 1(6.7) 15 (100.0) 2011 24(61.5) 0(0.0) 12(30.8) 3(7.7) 39 (100.0) 2012 11(61.1) 0(0.0) 7(38.9) 0(0.0) 18 (100.0) 2013 15(75.0) 0(0.0) 5(25.0) 0(0.0) 20 (100.0) 2014 13(59.1) 4(18.2) 4(18.2) 1(4.5) 22 (100.0) 2015 12(85.7) 0(0.0) 2(14.3) 0(0.0) 14 (100.0) 2016 8(47.1) 7(41.2) 2(11.7) 0(0.0) 17 (100.0)

As shown in Table 22, Gucci bags used metal metal chains and closure in 2009 and 2010, and Ornament most commonly except in 2010 and plain Ornament on 2011. However, in 2012 and 2014. Complex Ornament was increased to 2012 2013, metal chains and closures commonly but decreased after then. Handicraft Ornament appeared again. Plain Ornament was common in commonly appeared in 2010 and 2016 after 2004 and handicraft Ornament such as quilting Alessandro Michele became Gucci’s new creative was common in 2015 and 2006. In other words, director. He reinterpreted Gucci bags using the traditional Louis Vuitton’s Ornaments such as GRG strap. The Ornament of Gucci bags was metal tumbler closure and chain, Ornaments, focused on a metal signature closure. and logo appeared in line with a trend. It As shown in Table 23, Louis Vuitton commonly suggests Louis Vuitton’s design feature that aims used metal chains and handicraft Ornament at changes within tradition rather use new reflecting an emotional trend in 2007 and 2008, Ornament.

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Table 23. Ornament of Louis Vuitton Bags by Years N(%) Metal Handicraft Complex Plain Total 2007 7(15.2) 13(28.3) 14(30.4) 12(26.1) 46(100.0) 2008 18(28.6) 3(4.8) 36(57.1) 6(9.5) 63(100.0) 2009 22(36.7) 14(23.3) 5(8.3) 19(31.7) 60(100.0) 2010 32(43.8) 14(19.2) 16(21.9) 11(15.1) 73(100.0) 2011 4(8.7) 15(32.6) 0(0.0) 27(58.7) 46(100.0) 2012 34(40.0) 16(18.8) 8(9.4) 27(31.8) 85(100.0) 2013 35(54.7) 21(32.8) 6(9.4) 2(3.1) 64(100.0) 2014 1(3.3) 5(16.7) 8(26.7) 16(53.3) 30(100.0) 2015 11(15.7) 28(40.0) 23(32.9) 8(11.4) 70(100.0) 2016 3(8.6) 19(54.3) 5(14.3) 8(22.9) 35(100.0)

Ⅳ. Conclusion leather. Gucci and Louis Vuitton commonly applied leather and patent. For pattern and A luxury brand bag is an essential item to trimming, Chanel frequently used the logo and complete consumers in broad classes and stripe patterns + quilting besides plain pattern + fashion. With market expansion and the quilting. Gucci commonly used plain pattern + possibility to project the luxury image of each metal signature closure and GRG strap design brand into wearers, it has been long loved by on the traditional GG canvas. Louis Vuitton women. Therefore, this study attempted to commonly used metal tumbler on the logo examine the constructive characteristics of luxury pattern along with plain pattern + quilting. brand bags which constantly change their design Second, for the changes of bags, Chanel but improve their brand value. This study applied various kinds and materials under the selected Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton bags influence of a trend. Gucci attempted various which had highest preference in luxury brands changes in color. Louis Vuitton changed design and analyzed the kind, shape, color, material, using Ornaments. For example, Chanel presented pattern, and Ornaments of their design. The a backpack under the influence of a casual look results were summarized as follows. in 2014 and a cyber bag with a computer First, for the kind and shape of constructive monitor trimmed in the exterior in 2015. Gucci characteristics, Chanel presented square quilting used black color to express sexy and elegant bags with geometric shoulder bags. Gucci had moods in 2008 and boyish moods in 2012. square shoulder bags and many various Using gray in 2016, yellow in 2011, blue in sack-style grip bags. Louis Vuitton showed 2012, and red in 2014, Gucci made more trapezoid or polygonal tote bags and shoulder various color changes than Chanel and Louis bags. For color, Chanel has mainly used black Vuitton. Louis Vuitton often used metal Ornament and white but gradually increased gray. Gucci under the influence of a classic trend in 2013, used various colors in addition to its symbolic rarely used it in 2014 under the influence of a color, brown. Louis Vuitton commonly used casual look, and frequently used handicraft traditional camel color, black, and white. For Ornament such as quilting from 2015. material, Chanel used plastic and tweed besides Third, for the identity and design changes of

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each brand, Chanel has tried to combine Symbolic Color Shown from the Luxury Brand functionality pursued in the past with constantly Products. Journal of the Design Research changing femininity by making bags in fantastic Institute of Kyunghee Unversity, 8(2), 7-13. moods using various materials and free shapes. Choi, S., & Lee, M. (2010). I Love Brand. Seoul: Gucci has constantly used Ornament elements Samsung Economics Research Institute holding the brand identity of classic bags and Chung, H., & Kim, E. (2001). A Study on the trend colors to keep tradition. Louis Vuitton History of Hand-bag. Chung-Ang Journal of holds fast to its functional shape to protect Human Ecology, 14, 187-207. brand identity through design philosophy that Design Museum (2011). 50 Bags That Changed started with a travel luggage and attempts to the World. Seoul: HongC Communication. express modern emotion through Ornament Hong, E. (2002). The study about developing changes. on material of bag (Unpublished This study confirmed that luxury brands have master’s thesis). Ewha Woman’s University, accepted their unique design characteristics Seoul, Korea. holding brand identity to improve their brand In 2016, the luxury you choose. (2016, February value and attempted to change constructive 5). Tapacross Blog. Retrieved February 30, elements in many different ways for modern 2016, from http://tapacross.tistory.com/744 reinterpretation. In conclusion, this study Jang, J., & Cho, K. (2008). A Study on the suggests the need of the further prospective Plastic Characteristics of Louis Vuitton Bags. study on luxury brand bags other than three The Korean Society of Desegn Culture brands analyzed in this study to add depth to Journal, 14(4), 827-837. the study results. Joen, K. (2005). A Study of Bag Design (Unpublished master’s thesis). Hongik University, Seoul, Korea. References Johnson, A. (2002). Handbags. New York: Workman Publishing Company. Brand Theory. (n.d.). Korea Brand Management Kim, D. (2004). Luxury Marketing. Seoul: Association. Retrieved February 30, 2016, Meraebook. from http://brands.or.kr/board/view Kim, J. [Jiyoung], & Chung, S. (2006). A Study Chanel. (n.d.). World Brand Encyclopedia. on Fashion Bag in Contemporary Fashion Retrieved January 2, 2016, from Culture. The Research Journal of the Costume http://terms.naver.com Culture, 14(2), 334-351. Cho, M. (2004). Luxury Goods. Seoul: Sizirak. Kim, J. [Jiyoung]. (2009). Bag Design Appeared Choi, H. (2007). Story Telling. Seoul: Dahal in Fashion Collection after 2000s. Journal of Media. the Korea Society of Design Culture, 15(3), Choi, I., Lee, S., & Cheong, S. (2006). A Study 79-92. on Brand Identity in TV Commercial. The Kim, J. [Jungyeon]. (2003). The Study of Design Korean journal of advertising and public Value Factors in Luxury Brand (Unpublished relations, 8(2), 230-274. master’s thesis). Kun-Kuk University, Seoul, Choi, M., & Kim, K. (2005). A Study on Korea.

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