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Newfoundland & Labrador 12. Newfoundland & Labrador Caribou Country SLEDDING ADVENTURES IN WESTERN LABRADOR Psssst. Wanna know a secret? Where do you think the best-groomed trails in North America may be? Think Western Labrador — an untamed frontier that most map- makers box off in a corner like an afterthought. A sub-arctic wilderness that shares its land borders with the Province of Québec and its heritage with Newfoundland. An unspoiled destination that’s only the same driving distance from Toronto as Tampa, Florida. And yes, it is accessible by road, north on the Trans Québec-Labrador Highway (#389) from Baie Comeau, Québec. So who would ever want to go snowmobiling in Labrador? My bet is that you will, sooner than later. Especially if I can convince you that Labrador West is an outstand- ing snowmobiling destination for the “Been There, Done That” crowd. And that it has snow, especially when no one else does. Let’s start with those magnificent trails. How good are they? Flat as a board. Hard- packed. Minimum sixteen and up to twenty-five feet wide. Well-signed and staked. 78 C a n a d a ’ s B e s t S N O W M O B I L I N G YOUR ULTIMATE RIDE GUIDE C a n a d a ’ s B e s t S N O W M O B I L I N G 79 GETTING THERE Lots of variety, including old roads, utili- longer, than any other trails in Canada. hunting and ice fishing (speckled and into Wabush. I must have looked bizarre ty corridors, lakes, and hilly, forested ter- lake trout, white fish, arctic char, north- at the Toronto airport, with spring in full However you choose to get to Labrador, I highly recommend that you make contact well in advance rain through the Wapuskatto Mountains. But there were only 500 kilometres of ern pike and landlocked salmon). bloom. After one unfortunate experi- And a season that runs from Christmas them, you say — hardly worth so long a Labrador is truly an outdoorsman’s para- ence several years ago, when my snow- to arrange your tour, including a guide and gas if you intend to travel further away than the White into May! journey! And if that’s all that Labrador dise — especially in winter! mobile gear failed to fly with me to my Wolf trail system. This is truly the Great White North, so don’t take anything for granted. Miraculously, as recently as 1997, there had to offer, you might be right. destination, I wasn’t taking any chances By Road: Labrador West is 581 kilometres north of Baie Comeau, Québec via Trans Québec- were no groomed snowmobile trails in Fortunately, there were numerous other The Labrador West region is known as with having to snowmobile Labrador in Labrador Highway 389. About two thirds of this corridor was paved while the remainder was a Labrador. Today, Labrador West (as attractions for the avid snowmobiler. the Iron Ore Capital of North America. my skivvies! So I checked in wearing my hard-pack, gravel surface. During the winter, it was regularly maintained and ploughed by the Labrador City and Wabush are now col- First, the Labrador West trails connect to Incorporated in the sixties, the twin irreplaceable snowmobile suit and boots, Québec Ministry of Transportation into a very serviceable road that normally allows an 8.5-hour and carrying my helmet. But I felt right drive to Labrador West. Services, including gas, were available at Manic 5 (a large hydro dam well at home climbing off that plane in win- worth viewing) and near Gagnon, but given the wilderness locale, it’s wise to carry survival gear, tery Labrador. food and water for several days in case of problems. As spring thaw sets in, a few parts of the After checking into the grand old Wabush Hotel, just steps from the air- road can turn muddy, making driving a challenge. If you are trailering from the Atlantic Provinces, port, we headed to the office of Baie Comeau is best accessed by regular ferry service from Matane, Québec. (Update: a large bus Northern Lights Fishing Lodge where we and trailer combo out of Labrador City can be booked to transport groups.) were set up for the week with two new By Rail: It may be possible to ship sleds north from Sept Isles on the Québec North Shore and Ski-Doo touring sleds from their rental Labrador Railway. Contact Labrador tourism for more information. fleet. By Sled: If you have the time and are prepared for a real backwoods adventure, you can snow- Our first two days, we rode trails around Labrador West groomed by the mobile to Labrador West. There was an ungroomed wilderness trail north from Sept Isles, but it White Wolf Snowmobile Club and sam- requires a savvy guide, not only to navigate the way, but also to arrange a gas stash en route pled the Fermont system too. The tem- (there are no stations). Be prepared to spend at least one night in a bush camp, longer if it snows perature in this sub-arctic climate ranged during the journey. I wouldn’t recommend this option without at least four able-bodied men, from -30 degrees Celsius in early morn- preferably on long track sleds. ing to a very ridable -10 by afternoon. If By Air: The easiest way is to fly into Wabush on the daily Air Canada flights originating from either that sounds too chilly, remember that Montreal or Québec City. You can rent a machine from Northern Lights Fishing Lodge. Remember Labrador’s dry cold is nowhere near as to label all checked luggage with the address/phone number of your Labrador destination and the uncomfortable as the humidity-laden dates you will be there, as well as your home address and phone number. There are car rentals deep freezes of central Canada. As I’ve lectively known) boasts over 500 kilome- several hundred kilometres of groomed towns of Labrador City and Wabush serv- already indicated, the trail riding was at the Wabush airport, but everything is so close and trail accessible that once you get your sleds, tres of area trails. Essentially, they have snowmobile trails around nearby iced the open pit mines owned by the superb, with many scenic lookouts over my guess is that you won’t need one. leapfrogged from goat paths to snow Fermont, Québec. Next, the 1,500 kilo- Iron Ore Company of Canada and the the expansive panorama of Labrador highways almost overnight. metre Labrador Winter Snowmobile Wabush Iron Company Ltd. Together mountains. One indicator of the snowmobiling Trail is complete, enabling riders to with the Québec Cartier Mine in nearby We soon learned that snowmobiles are acceptance level in this northern snowmobile from Labrador West Fermont, Québec, these mines produce as endemic to Labradorians as trucks. community was evident at in-town snow- through Churchill Falls to Happy an astounding 30 million tonnes of qual- For years, wide track machines such as mobile road crossings. The hard pack Valley/Goose Bay, and then down the ity iron ore products annually, that are the Bombardier Skandic had seen tradi- laid down by the groomer across the east coast to L’Ans au Clair at the shipped around the world through Sept tional use by the local hunters and fisher- asphalt was often left intact — and cars Québec border. Finally, and in my opin- Isles, Québec. men who frequently travel to their camps slowed down to pass over these snowy ion the real bonus for adventure-seeking With good wages, low unemployment, and cottages north of town. Not only are speed bumps! snowmobilers, the Labrador experience cheap hydro and modest property taxes, these excellent back country sleds, they Best of all, Labrador has oodles of also includes virtually limitless backcoun- Labrador West boasts an average family are also capable of pulling the ubiqui- snow, temperatures that quickly set a try riding opportunities through those income considerably higher than our tous qamutiks (“ka-moo-teeks”) — large, fresh grooming into a virtually indestruc- beautiful Wapuskatto Mountains, rugged national average. This frontier centre high-sided toboggans — that haul gas tible base, and comparatively minimal terrain laced with hidden lakes. There has a combined population of about and supplies in, and caribou carcasses sled traffic — all factors integral to supe- are even play areas where hardcore rid- 10,000, and offers a wide range of servic- and other bounty out. Groomed trails rior trail quality. Moreover, every trail was ers can hill-climb and side hill to their es and conveniences, including have brought change and challenge to a main one, receiving priority treatment; heart’s content! Labrador’s only 18-hole golf course. Labrador. Some traditional users still there were no under-served secondary or By March, the snow cover had settled When the Trans Québec-Labrador have not succumbed to peer pressure to local trails as can be found in most other sufficiently that one could ride almost Highway opened in 1992, Labrador West join the club by paying the annual user provinces. So kilometre for kilometre, it anywhere with ease. I should also note became the main hub for movement of fee. But many locals not only anteed up is arguable that during March and April, that snowmobilers who are hunters and goods and products across the region. gladly, they also bought new sleds specif- these Labrador West snowmobile trails anglers can combine their riding with ically for trail riding, thus opening up a were consistently better, and better for some of the continent’s best caribou In mid-March, Jean Leroux and I flew new market for snowmobile sales.
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