TAIWAN Formosan Endemics
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TAIWAN Formosan Endemics A Tropical Birding Custom Tour June 14 – 22, 2019 Guides: Ken Behrens & Kuan Chieh Hung/貫捷洪 Report and photos by Ken Behrens TOUR SUMMARY Taiwan is a gem of a country that lies off the coast of East Asia. Although its mention evokes huge urban areas and massive populations in the minds of most, Taiwan actually boasts rugged mountains and vast wilderness areas. These support a rich array of wildlife, including dozens of endemic bird species and even more endemic subspecies, many of which are potential future splits. Taiwan is a comfortable place to travel, with modern hotels, world-class roads, and excellent food. Whether you’re an experienced Asia-phile birder seeking out the island’s endemic birds, or a newcomer to this part of the world, Taiwan is an excellent place to visit. This short trip was a bit unusual in a couple respects. For one, it was during the summer, whereas most birding tours run during the spring season. Although in June, the winter and passage birds were gone, it was if anything better for the endemic birds. This custom trip was also somewhat unusual in its hybrid approach, as we tried to see all the endemic birds, photograph as many birds as possible (as on a “Birding with a Camera” tour), plus to see as much other wildlife as we could manage. We were highly successful on all fronts. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 With the endemic birds, we saw all 28 endemic species recognized on the current Clements list, plus several highly likely future splits, and dozens more endemic subspecies, some of which may be elevated to full endemic species in the future. Some of the highlights were stunning views of a pair of Mikado Pheasants at (literally) arm’s length, intimate encounters with Flamecrest, Black-necklaced We had ridiculously great views of the elusive endemic Black- Scimitar-Babbler, and all the necklaced Scimitar-Babbler at Dasyeushan. laughingthrushes, and several excellent sightings of the island’s most elusive endemic: Taiwan Thrush. Taiwan Bamboo Partridge was actually the endemic that gave us the most trouble, but our persistence eventually paid off with great views. One of the outstanding things about Taiwan is that although it has only one or two representatives of many major Asian groups of birds, an unusually high proportion of these are the coolest member of the group! A few examples that I’d argue are Taiwan Yuhina, Firecrest, White- eared Sibia, Steere’s Liocichla, Taiwan Blue-Magpie, and Taiwan Barwing. Taiwan might not have a vast set of endemics, but all of its endemics are very cool birds. Even the drab-looking Taiwan Bush-Warbler It’s not an endemic, but Taiwan is the best place on Earth to see Malayan Night-Heron, which is very tricky elsewhere. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 boasts one of the coolest songs among Asian birds! Although the endemics were the avian focus, there were plenty of cool non-endemic birds. Chief among these was the increasingly rare Fairy Pitta, which we manage to see due to the efforts of our excellent local guide Kuan Chieh, a.k.a. “Chuck”. This was also one of the very few birding tours that managed to see all three of Taiwan’s woodpeckers, the scarcest of which is Gray-headed. A couple of nocturnal excursions produced many prizes, including Mountain Scops-Owl, Northern Boobook, several species of frogs, a Red-and-white Flying-Squirrel, and a beautiful Taiwanese Habu snake. The weather throughout our tour was ideal, with clear blue skies and very little rain. This allowed us to enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery. Despite being on a relatively small island, it is easy in Taiwan to forget that you’re not somewhere in the heart of the mighty Himalayas! This trip was a lot like Taiwan itself: a great deal packed into a small space. When it was over, it was hard to believe that it had only been 8 days long! Chestnut-bellied Tit is one of Taiwan’s more elusive endemics. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 ITINERARY June 14 Arrival in Taiwan. Night in Taoyuan. June 15 Taoyuan to Shimen Dam to Daxueshan. June 16-17 Daxueshan. June 18 Dongshi to Qingjing. June 19 Wuling Pass / Hehuanshan to Toroko Gorge NP to Hualien, and back. June 20 Qingjing to Yushan NP to Alishan. June 21 Alishan to Tainan area to Douliu. June 22 Douliu to Taoyuan. Departure. Collared Finchbill is an odd bulbul that is quite common in lower-elevation forest and scrub. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 PHOTO GALLERY On our final full day, we searched for waterbirds around Tainan. One of the highlights was many Pheasant-tailed Jacanas in breeding plumage. Taroko Gorge has some spectacular scenery, and lots of red bridges. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Taiwan Whistling-Thrush (left) and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (right). Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler has an endemic Taiwanese subspecies. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 A couple of elusive endemics: Taiwan Cupwing (left) and Taiwan Thrush (right). Rufous-faced Warbler is astoundingly common in Taiwan. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 We visited a couple of beautiful temples. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Golden-headed Cisticola in full breeding plumage near Puli. Not bad for a cisticola! The taxon of Vivid Niltava in Taiwan is likely to be split as an additional endemic. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 It took some nerve-wracking patience, but we eventually came face-to-face with Mikado Pheasant. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Taiwan Fulvetta (left) and “Owston’s” Gray-headed Bullfinch (right) are specialties of the highest elevations. Golden Parrotbill has a distinctive Taiwanese subspecies that is another likely future split. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Taiwan Blue-Magpie: what a fabulous bird! When you’re in the middle of them, Taiwan’s rugged mountains seem endless. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 It was an unusual treat to see a female Swinhoe’s Pheasant high in a tree! Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Black Bulbul, yet another distinctive Taiwanese subspecies: “Velvety Bulbul”. Immature Malayan Night-Heron is perhaps even cooler than the adult bird! Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Flamecrest is a Taiwanese endemic that is easily the coolest member of its family. Taiwanese Rosefinch (left) and Striated Prinia (right). Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Taiwan Barwing… yup, it’s the coolest barwing. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Brown Dipper is one of the wonderful widespread Asian birds found in Taiwan. Steere’s Liocichla. Is it the coolest liocichla? Yup. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 White-whiskered Laughingthrush is common and tame in the high mountains. You guessed it… some more endemics: Collared Bush-Robin (left) and Formosan Odd-scaled Snake (right). Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Formosan Rock Macaque, a sturdy monkey with lots of character. Yellow Tit singing away on Hehuanshan. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 White-eared Sibia, a glorious endemic bird. Taiwan Hwamei is being genetically swamped by introduced Chinese Hwameis. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Taiwan Bush-Warbler (left) and Taiwan Yuhina (right). Taiwan Partridge is a beauty, like all the members of its genus. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Female Mikado Pheasant is a beauty in her own right. Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 BIRD LIST Taxonomy and nomenclature follow The eBird-Clements Checklist of the Birds of the World v2018 (including updates through August 2018). Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl (Anatidae) Eastern Spot-billed Duck Anas zonorhyncha Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies (Phasianidae) E NT Taiwan Partridge Arborophila crudigularis E Taiwan Bamboo-Partridge Bambusicola sonorivox E NT Mikado Pheasant Syrmaticus mikado E NT Swinhoe's Pheasant Lophura swinhoii Grebes (Podicipedidae) Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Pigeons and Doves (Columbidae) I Rock Pigeon Columba livia Ashy Wood-Pigeon Columba pulchricollis Essp Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis orii Red Collared-Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Asian Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica White-bellied Pigeon Treron sieboldii Cuckoos (Cuculidae) Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides H Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus optatus Nightjars and Allies (Caprimulgidae) Essp Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis stictomus Swifts (Apodidae) Hirundapus cochinchinensis Essp Silver-backed (Formosan) Needletail formosanus BM Pacific Swift Apus pacificus Essp House Swift Apus nipalensis kuntzi Rails, Gallinules, and Coots (Rallidae) Eurasian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Stilts and Avocets (Recurvirostridae) Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Plovers and Lapwings (Charadriidae) Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Painted-Snipes (Rostratulidae) Greater Painted-Snipe Rostratula benghalensis Jacanas (Jacanidae) Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus Pratincoles and Coursers (Glareolidae) BM Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers (Laridae) Little Tern Sternula albifrons Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Taiwan: Formosan Endemics June 14-22, 2019 Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana BM Great Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii Cormorants (Phalacrocoracidae) Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns (Ardeidae) Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis NBM Gray Heron Ardea cinerea NBM Great Egret Ardea