Sonam Kinga, the Chairperson of 42 Dawn of a New 72 Last Word the National Council, Talks to the Raven on Orange King Challenges Pertaining to the House of Review

MAY-JUNE /2013

COVER STORY 01 10 NOTHING IS PURE, NOTHING IS STAINED - heart sutra

16 Article 47 What’s Your Is Information Quirk? Technology an Chef Harka Man PHOTO ESSAY Enabler? Subba, popularly known as Rigden 26 Happenings Private firm in Bhutan 48 Know Your Food 20 bhutan at night and gets recognized in black & white internationally 50 Restaurant Review 28 Feature Kados LIVING WITH Electing a candidate 52 Movie Review 32 Travel Zhideyi Tsawa Kolkata - The Eternal 62 LIVING WITH GARBAGE City 54 Book Review

36 Feature Escapades Improving the INTERVIEW Investment Climate 60 Leisure

40 Column 66 Most Discussed Will it boil down to a 56 tÊtE Á tÊtE car? 68 Art Page Dasho Sonam Kinga, the Chairperson of 42 Dawn of a New 72 Last Word the National Council, talks to The Raven on Orange King challenges pertaining to the house of review.

46 What’s New? Trends

The Raven May / June, 2013 1 letters to the editor

Sir/Madam,

As always, it was a pleasure to read the last issue While I must admit that your team is doing a of The Raven. The cover story, Meet the New wonderful job, I must also admit that it was disap- Political Parties, was very informative to me as a pointing to not find PDP and DPT featured in the voter. Firstly, it introduces the new parties to the interview The Raven carried in its last edition featur- readers and secondly, it covers a wide range of is- ing the three new political parties. sues and the parties take on them thus enabling voters to make informed choices. Keep it up! Also, I am sad that after subscribing to a yearly pack- age, you have decided to publish only once in two Tshering Choden, Thimphu months. I understand it may be financially viable to do so, but please do keep your dedicated readers in The Raven, of late, has been bringing out issues mind when you decide on things like these. that have been overlooked for quite a while now. It is a wonderful magazine and I am sure the readers When other mediums only seem to focus on the would want it twice a month instead of the other way elections The Raven, while providing information round. Good Luck! on the political parties, along with the Election Commission’s views, continues bringing out Dawa Dradul, Thimphu. other issues that are equally important too. I offer my congratulations to the team. It is good to know that we have some dedicated journalists in our midst.

Palden Tashi, Phuentsholing. NOTIFICATION FROM THE RAVEN

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW DASHO KUNZANG WANGDI LIVING WITH HIV ZEN & THE ART OF ABLAZE IN THE LAND Starting April, The Raven has gone bi-monthly (publishing WEAVING OF SNOW p.64 p.14 p.36 one issue every two months).

Your To our clients who have paid for annual subscriptions, your Monthly MAHAKALA Guardian Tours & Travels NU 100 subscription will not run out at the end of 2013, but after all APRIL 2013 ISSUE 6 VOLUME 1 www.theravenmag.com 12 issues you have paid for have been delivered to you. We have made the decision to go bi-monthly owing to the nature of the articles that we publish. The Raven focuses on providing in-depth stories on burning social issues of our times. We have thus determined that our mission is best served when we have the time that allows us to meet the quality standards we want to achieve. The challenges of publishing within Bhutan have been immense and we hope that you will continue to provide us your goodwill and support. Thank you for your understanding. For all your travel needs to Bhutan: [email protected] Sincerely, MAY THE BEST PARTY WIN! Team Raven

Letters to the Editor or to The Raven will be edited for clarity and space and can be published, unless specifically asked not to. letter from the editor

KUZUZANGPO!

pril was a busy month (on the political front), but May proves to be even busier, what with all the political campaigning going on. June will be no less so when Bhutan heads Ato the polls for a second time. Congratulations to all the NC elects and good luck to all those contending in the upcoming elections. Our hope is that those who are elected to office will not lose perspective of the need for social reform in our society There are many deep-seated social issues that need to be addressed. Instead of adding to these problems through ill-thought and un-researched policies it can only be hoped that officials will open up their minds and hearts to issues that affect certain sections of the population more than others. We also hope that they realize that education, awareness, and understanding are important to counter these problems in the correct ways. As a Developing country, there are many areas that demand the focus of the government, but when there is special emphasis made on the social sector, especially in Education and Health, we think it helps uplift the wellbeing of the people in ways that other sectors cannot. Post Letters to the Editor This month The Raven’s focus on another social issue in Bhutanese society is that of sexual ‘The Raven’ P.O.Box:1047, abuse of minors in the monk body. Kuensel’s revealing article on the plight of the monks last Thimphu, month gave us some insight into what is happening, but this needs to be addressed and inves- Bhutan tigated further by all organizations, including the media, that are responsible and beholden to these vulnerable groups. It is not an easy task when the institution is powerful and has the support of many. We need not look anywhere else for examples – the Catholic Church, Penn State University, and now Mail [email protected] BBC. These are just few examples in the world of how officials/people have abused the power of their institutions to abuse minors. It tells us that these problems are universal, and not confined to Bhutan.

Facebook On another note we have great articles by staff writers as well as strong analytical pieces from facebook.com/ theravenmagazine our contributors on Information Technology and on problems with Foreign Direct Investment in Bhutan. These are much-needed studies of how the inconsistency of laws and implement- ing strategies takes away from the end result. Twitter We hope you will write to us and let us know how we are doing and give us constructive feed- twitter.com/ bhutanraven back on how The Raven can continue to keep the discussion on various issues alive. Have a great summer and election season. We sincerely hope that together we can bring a write to us government in place that will put the basic needs of disadvantaged Bhutanese above their own.

Sonam Ongmo Editor-at-Large

The Raven May / June, 2013 3 TEAM & contributOrs

Randall Krantz is a Strategic Advisor for the Druk Holding & Investments on Private Sector Development. He maintains a blog at www.bhutanchronicles.com. Publisher: Dechen Ongmo Executive Director: Kesang P. Dorji Email: [email protected] Editor at Large: Sonam Ongmo Feature Editor: Mitra Raj Dhital Email: [email protected] [email protected] Senior Reporter: Tshering Dorji Thinlay Nono Wangchuk holds a MSc in IT from the Univer- Email: [email protected] sity of Liverpool, UK. He is currently working with UNFPA in Bhutan. Designer: Tashi Palden Email: [email protected] Photographer: Lhendup AFD: Karma Wangchuk & Tshewang Dem Email: [email protected]

Phone # Office: 02-337711 Ariel Lebowitz is a Canadian Librarian living in Thimphu. Fax: 02-337722 For Asia orders contact: 77111171 For International orders contact our agent Nima Lhamo in New York Address: 42-20 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria, NY 11105 Email: [email protected]

Printed at: Kuensel Corp. Thimphu. Jurmi Chhowing is a freelance journalist. He maintains a blog at iamdrukpa.blogspot.com

The Raven is a bi-monthly publication ( Registration no 302000004) Content Copyright © The Raven. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form. The Raven is not responsible for statements expressed by non-staff contributors or advertising claims. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss or damage of unsolicited material. Subscription enquiries and change of address should be sent to The Raven PO Box 1047, Thimphu. Email [email protected].

4 The Raven May / June, 2013 news in brief MAY

thimphu lhuentse Dratshang opens childcare & protection office 154-ft tall Guru statue Publisher: Dechen Ongmo is Holiness the Je Khenpo inaugurated and consecrated the childcare and nearing completion Executive Director: Kesang P. Dorji protection office opened by the Zhung Dratshang on May 26. The office Email: [email protected] H is set up to address issues related to the rights of the monks and nuns aged 18 onstruction of the enormous Editor at Large: Sonam Ongmo years and below. The office will examine whether monastic institutions are pro- Cbronze statue of Guru Rinpoche, Feature Editor: Mitra Raj Dhital viding quality education and hygienic accommodation facilities to the monks. in the form of Guru Nangsey Zilneon Email: [email protected] The office will also give legal protection to the monks and nuns who have in Takila, Lhuentse, is expected to be [email protected] been deprived of their rights. The construction of the office was carried out complete this year. The 154-ft tall stat- with funds from the NCWC, while the equipment for the office was provided ue is seated on a 38-ft high lotus-base, Senior Reporter: Tshering Dorji by UNICEF. on a hilltop, overlooking the Tang- Email: [email protected] machu village in Menbi gewog. More thimphu Designer: Tashi Palden than 35 skilled workers are working Email: [email protected] NC gets new chair both inside and on the statue in order to meet the deadline. Photographer: Lhendup rashigang council member Dasho Dr. Sonam Kinga was elected as the AFD: Karma Wangchuk & Tnew National Council chairperson. He secured a total of 15 votes of the paro Tshewang Dem 25 cast. Two former councilors, who competed for the post, Gasa’s Sangay Email: [email protected] Khandu and Pemagatshel’s Jigme Rinzin won eight and two votes each. Tractors & power Council member from Haa, Tshering Dorji, who was the lone candidate tillers available on hire Phone # Office: 02-337711 for the deputy chairperson, was elected unanimously with 25 yes votes. Fax: 02-337722 armers in Paro have welcomed the For Asia orders contact: 77111171 Thimphu Fgovernment’s machinery hiring For International orders Army Worm invasion service scheme. They say this move contact our agent Nima Lhamo in New York by the government that allows them rmyworm or Spodoptera frugiperda infestation has so far spread across to hire tractors and power tillers has Address: 42-20 Ditmars Blvd, A14 dzongkhags within a few weeks of the first incident being reported. sorted out their labor shortage woes. Astoria, NY 11105 Damaging paddy saplings and other crops, Punakha was the hardest hit by Some farmers even feel that it might Email: [email protected] the worms with 100 percent damage in all 11 gewogs. Ministry of agricul- be the answer to rural-urban migra- ture officials said there was no need to panic as the crops would grow back tion, as it will employ the youth to op- Printed at: Kuensel Corp. Thimphu. again. The ministry has been distributing pesticides, and advising farmers erate this machinery. But, whether, it to carry out top dressing of urea after paddy transplantation. is the answer or not, the service was introduced by the Agriculture Ma- sipsoo chinery Centre in Paro to increase The gola bazaar quandary utilization of fallow lands, generate esidents of Gola Bazaar in Sipsoo, Samtse, want to continue living in income through crop intensification, Rtheir old, small, compact town instead of moving to a new township and to commercialize agriculture. Ac- area, chosen by the government, in Balbotay. The residents, mostly shop- cording to the ministry officials, they keepers, after a consultative meeting, had submitted a plea to the dungkhag hope such services will encourage office in Sibsoo and to the Ministry of Works and Human Settlement re- people to farm. questing that their case be looked into.

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I hand over this kasho to you with the hope that our elections will be carried out in His majesty accordance to the Constitution, with all THE KING while issuing the the people taking equal responsibility Royal decree, an- nouncing the poll and working in harmony to ensure that it day, to the Election AROUND Commission. is as successful as our first elections. On elections The time has come where the religious As common forum draws lekey wangdi to [an] end, I am of the opinion institutions in Bhutan [should be] involved works at the GNHC. that CF with all parties are [an] in social service work for the benefit of the excellent idea. Thanks ECB. poor, beyond prayers. Lamakheno on twitter. On MPs I feel there’s a small cancer cell growing In the beginning MP’s seem Dr. Lotay Tshering in our five-year democratic child, and if after resigning to be promising policies from the civil benefiting [the] poor, but finally I didn’t join now, the damage would be service to contest the upcoming [they] end up with pro-rich policies done, and that cancer cell would have elections as a Druk with changes in their [own] income Nyamrup Tshogpa grown too much that it would be too late. candidate. bracket Lekey Wangdi on twitter. On Dratshangs

I translate my personal dreams into Passang Does the Dratshang have a school teacher age-based sections like schools? spaces in school. Now the blue pond is from Bajothang who built a school Primary, secondary etc. [It is a] trav- done! Took my family there. pond. esty if all monks lodged together. Sangay_penjor on twitter. On benefits CHIMMY PEM, Now that was pretty fast! Got home to find hordes of worms going up TOURISM COUNCIL OF the walls of my house. Splashed water all BHUTAN, referring From revision of armed forces pay to the infestation scale it has now changed to retire- of the army worms around to deter them but I guess that is only in Thimphu. ment benefits. a temporary measure. LpTashi on twitter.

The Raven May / June, 2013 7 NOT JUST YOUR MONTHLY GUARDIAN... WE’RE MUCH MORE!

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leveraging cultural diversity NOT JUST YOUR MONTHLY GUARDIAN... JUNE 4-5 RTC CAMPUS, THIMPHU Organized by Helvetas Swiss intercooperation and the WE’RE MUCH MORE! Royal Thimphu College with the support of the European Union, the conference will explore, discuss, & celebrate distinctive cultures of marginalized communities in Bhutan. ELECTIONS

2nd Parliamentary Elections INAUGURATION MAY 31 & JULY 13 NATIONWIDE Opening of the Royal Textile Academy (RTA) Bhutan will vote for the second National Assembly elections. The primary round will be held first on May 31, and the two JUNE 5-6 parties with the majority of votes will proceed to the general THIMPHU elections that is scheduled to be held on July 13. A complex of 5 acres in the heart of Thimphu, dedicated to the conservation and preservation of Bhutanese textiles FESTIVAL will be inaugurated. The RTA will function as an education centre to teach and support the creation of Bhutanese textile arts. The center will also house a museum, introducing Kurjey Tshechu Bhutan’s ancient heritage to its visitors, while expanding JUNE 18 the country’s resource for cultural tourism. KURJEY LHAKHANG, BUMTHANG The prestigious Kurjey tshechu is not only an attraction for COURSE tourists but for locals as well. Considered a sacred festival, the tshechu attracts people from all walks of life in their finest costumes and jewelry. Along with the mask dances, this year Sixth Executive Forest Policy Course the festival has various folk dances lined up too.

MAY 27- JUNE 6 Haa Summer festival THIMPHU JULY 6-7 The sixth executive forest policy course titled “Forest poli- HAA cies for the 21st century” will commence on May 27. The course will focus on policy analysis, formulation, develop- Set among pristine lakes and high alpine valleys, the Haa sum- ment and implementation within the rapidly changing mer festival is a lively and uplifting celebration of traditional social, economical and environmental context affecting living-culture, nomadic lifestyles, unique Bhutanese cuisine, forests. Participants will also be introduced to international traditional sports and religious performances. It provides un- forest policy experiences and methodologies. paralleled insight into the lives and traditions of Bhutan’s nomadic herders.

The Raven May / June, 2013 9 cover story

NOTHING IS PURE, NOTHING IS STAINED - HEART SUTRA

Religion has the capacity to silence critical thinking and create blindness in entire groups of people. It can infect the minds of followers so completely as to allow the most egregious sexual acts against children and others to go unchallenged for centuries - darrel raY

A DREAM He arrived one February morning in 2012 from his village, alone, and with a small battered and torn suitcase secured with a rope. The few contents, untidily packed, were visible because the case couldn’t close. When I met him later that evening he was sitting alone in front of the Television enrap- tured by a cartoon. Thinley, eleven, stood up when I walked in. “So you want to become a monk?” I asked. “Yes la,” he replied. “Why?” I asked, “I heard you were in school. Don’t you like going to school?” “I like school la, but I want to become a monk,” he responded. “Why?” I asked again. “Because I want to learn the teachings of Sangay (the Buddha) and if I learn the teachings I will become learned and I will be able to help my parents and my village la.” A child con- sciously aware of etiquette, bold, and probably street smart too, I surmised. “But you can do that even if you go to school,” I said. “How will you help them?” I was curious. “I will be able to share the teachings, and I will be able to help with the rituals. Right now we don’t have anyone who is learned in the scriptures

10 The Raven May / June, 2013 in our village,” he said. He spoke like monk. It was moving. But was it because showed me when I had gone to the an adult. I was touched by his desire to he really wanted to study the scriptures, chamber with him one day.” benefit others, if that was truly his intent. or was it to escape the hard life in the Undetected the boys managed to Short of saying anything else I told him, village? Everything about this encounter sneak out of the monastery premises. “Do you know they are very strict in the was so Dickensian, it was hard to think The monastery is about half a day’s monasteries and punishment can be there was a different Bhutan out there. walk uphill from the main motor road harsh?” I was trying to see his reaction Whatever his reason, I was impressed by in Punakha. After running for what and let him know it was not going to be his conviction and I wished the best for seemed like forever, the boys rested. so easy. him. They said they heard voices calling “Well, they need to be because chil- out their names. A few monks had dren can be naughty. A little discipline AN ESCAPE FROM BROKEN DREAMS given chase. is always good,” he said, undeterred. He It was a beautiful June morning “They didn’t find us, but we were was only eleven, yet he seemed deter- at the monastery. The monks had just scared to move after that, so we spent mined to take difficulty on, even leave his finished their breakfast and Thinley was that night in the forest,” Thinley family of his own volition, to become a at the stream washing up when Penjore, said. “We didn’t have anything to eat, twelve, a year older, joined him. Together but we drank lots of water from a they washed their hands and bowls in stream.” The next morning at sunrise silence. It had been about four months they set out for the road. As they were since Thinley had come to the monas- walking along they saw a taxi and tery. The morning sun fell softly around flagged it. “The driver asked us where them and although the days couldn’t get we wanted to go and we told him to more beautiful than this, the nights had Thimphu. He said it was Nu. 1,000 been something else. Both Thinley and and we paid him,” said Thinley. “He Penjore had experienced sleepless and asked us where we were coming from terrifying nights at the monastery. Unable and we told him that we had gone to to take anymore of what seemed like a help our uncle on his farm and were nightmare to them, Thinley decided it returning to Thimphu.” was time to do something about it. He When they got to Wolakha the taxi asked Penjore if he would run away with stopped. The taxi-driver told them him. Although both boys deny being he couldn’t go any further. He gave the first one to come up with the plan, no reason. “He didn’t return our they both agree that it was decided at the money because he said he didn’t have stream that they would run away. Thinley change, but he found us a car that may be a year younger than Penjore, who was going to Thimphu and told the is shy and reserved, but he is taller and driver to drop us there,” said Penjore. leaner, confident and bold. The driver dropped them off at It was there that the boys colluded to the bus-station. It was raining when end their monastic life for good. They ran they walked into town and stopped a into the bathroom and hurriedly discard- man to ask him if he knew of a cheap ed their robes on the floor, changed into hotel where they could stay. “The man their home-clothes and made their big instead took us to the police. We were move. They snuck into the head Lama’s very scared. The policeman asked us chamber, stole Nu. 3,000, and made for where we were from. We told him the surrounding forests. the same story, that we came from “I knew we would need money if our uncle’s farm, but the policeman we wanted to get home,” said Thinley. “I somehow knew. Eventually we told knew where the money was kept because him where we were from, although another novice monk Tshering, who is we didn’t tell him that we had run eleven, and worked with the head Lama away. He called the village Tshogpa

The Raven May / June, 2013 11 cover story

“What happened? Why did you run between my thighs. Every time I tried to away? You confided in someone about scream or struggled, he pinned me with why you ran away. Will you tell me?” his body, put his hand over my mouth It was there Thinley looks away and remains and covered it tightly. He said he was that the boys silent. “Did they beat you?” going to beat me if I screamed or said “No,” he turns to answer me, and then anything to anyone. During the day if I colluded quickly looks away. mentioned anything of it in front of the “Then why did you run away? You were other boys, he would pinch and punch to end their very eager to go when I saw you the last me. When I told him I was going to tell monastic life time. Why? Did someone harm you?” I the head Lama, he said he was going to ask again. hit me so hard I would lose all my teeth, for good. They He nods. or make me unconscious.” According to “What did they do?” Thinley, he made these threats in front ran into the Thinley says that he and Penjore slept of the other little boys, none of whom bathroom and in one room with another monk who was dared report it to the head Lama. probably in his 20’s. Sometimes, the older Apart from Thinley and Penjore discarded monk demanded one of them into his there were also two other young monks bed. They had to sleep with him in turns. – Tshering, eleven, and Dorji, nine. their robes. “He didn’t put it inside me, but Dorji, according to Thinley, slept with a to inform my parents and Penjore’s grandmother. He told them that we were safe at the station in Thimphu.” “The policeman took us to a small restaurant where he bought us tea and momos,” the boys said. “A man who was sitting nearby and drinking bought us puri and aloo and even gave us Nu.100 each when we left.”

THE HARSH REALITY Thinley is back in his village. He is carrying his baby sister, strapped on his back with a kabney. He hasn’t re-joined school as he has missed the academic year. He has an older brother who is in school and another younger sister apart from the one on his back. He spends his time helping his parents with the baby. His parents are farmers, although his father had once also been a monk but had left to become a farmer. I tell his parents that I want to talk to Thinley. His mother takes the baby, and Thinley and I walk behind the house where we sit on a large rock. I ask him why he ran away from the monastery. “I didn’t like it,” he says. I ask him again.

12 The Raven May / June, 2013 60-year-old monk, whom he referred was only 9, cried, and Penjore didn’t want to as Agay. “Sometimes Penjore and to talk about it at all. “Penjore kept telling I took turns sleeping with the Agay us to shut-up. He didn’t want to talk about Dorji who was too, because he asked for us,” Thinley it, and he didn’t want us to either.” said. The 60-year old monk did the Thinley’s parents are sitting outside only 9, cried, same thing, according to Thinley. their house. Both of them suffer from “Some nights he put it between alcoholism. His father looks unwell, his and Penjore my thighs and asked me to clench face swollen. I tell them what had happened kept telling us them. Then during the course he to Thinley, hoping they will understand would yell out, ‘dhum, dhum’ (tight, why he had run away and not blame him to shut-up. He tight). I felt very dirty and sick, it was for doing so. “You were once a monk too, disgusting.” I heard. You probably know these things didn’t want to Thinley says that apart from happened?” I tell his father. The father talk about it, this, nothing else happened. But he nods in acknowledgement, but doesn’t say wonders if the other boys might have anything. He looks embarrassed or even and he didn’t experienced differently. According to ashamed – either of the subject or about him, when the boys talked amongst what has happened – and looks away indi- want us to themselves in the mornings about cating he doesn’t want to discuss it. either. these incidents at night, Dorji who

I am standing at the edge of the field than ten years of age because they are watching Penjore’s grandmother dig for either orphans, have no place to go to, some potatoes from the only piece of land or their parents or relatives are unable to she owns. She has sent someone to fetch care for them. Penjore who is with the cows. This grand- “In the absence of foster homes, mother has outlived her husband, and monastic centers function as homes to her only daughter who died while Penjore the orphans and the poor,” Tashi Geley, was at the monastery. Penjore’s father, her the Health and Religion coordinator told son-in-law, also died several years ago. The Kuensel. grandmother now looks after the children Penjore may come from a poor fam- – Penjore and his sister. She tells me that ily where a single grandmother could Penjore was in school, but she couldn’t hardly feed him well, yet when I ask afford to keep him there so she decided him why he ran away he tells me with to send him to the monastery for a “good some anger, “The food was bad. I didn’t Buddhist” education. “It was difficult for like it. I didn’t want to go in the first me to look after and feed two parent-less place, but my grandmother thought it children,” she says. The head Lama of the would be good for me. I missed my fam- monastery meant well when he took Pen- ily,” he says, tears in his eyes. jore and Thinley, two boys from this village He is obviously thinking about his in Chukha, to give them a home and a good mother, I think. I ask what else he didn’t religious education at the monastery. After like about life at the monastery and he all, both children come from backgrounds says they were too strict. When I ask where the families are struggling. And it him if they beat him, and if there was is often that most, if not all, who are in the anything else they did to him, he starts monastic community come from similar, or to cry. Did they sexually molest him? I even more destitute, backgrounds. Accord- ask – offering him an explanation of the ing to recent reports from Kuensel many term. He nods, says “yes,” and breaks monastic centers even have to bend admis- down sobbing bitterly. sion rules by accepting children younger

The Raven May / June, 2013 13 cover story

MAKING A CASE; SEEKING leave and we waited. My hope was that only disrobed? What message does it send JUSTICE after RENEW had established the truth to the community at large? I was torment- To avoid the boys from being and legitimacy of the case, they would ed and torn. I have a twelve-year old son. criminally charged for stealing money forward it to the police for a criminal I have brothers, who were once also little from their Lama and to prevent fur- investigation, just as they would if it had boys. Had our lives been any different, it ther traumatizing them through po- been a little girl. Instead, a month later, could have been them – either the abused, lice interrogations, I presented their a call from the Dratsang asked that the or the perpetrator. I also had an insight case to RENEW (Respect Educate boys be brought to their office for ques- into the lives of Penjore and Thinley and Nurture Empower Women) an or- tioning. They wanted to conduct their seen how they were traumatized by this ganization that has been dealing with own investigation. incident. Yes, Bhutanese children are Women and Children’s issues. It was When I asked RENEW how the case sturdy and they move on, are forced to, also hoped that some sort of therapy had reached the Dratsang and why, I and many do. But many also don’t. They or counseling would be provided for was told that the Executive Director had continue to suffer not just physically, the wellbeing of the children. Maybe forwarded the case to another NGO, the but also internally - living in shame with RENEW doesn’t have the capabilities NCWC (National Council for Women these horrible dark secrets of rape and for that yet, because all the counselor and Children) who in turn forwarded abuse, and suffer in anger and silence for did was ask that a written complaint it to the Dratsang. On further enquiry, the rest of their lives. Many suffer from be filed. It was the first case of its kind it was realized that social organiza- depression and turn to alcohol unable that they were dealing with. Mention tions, and the police, cooperate with to cope, and while some even take their of the two other boys who were still at the Dratsang and forward all such cases lives, others resort to crime or even molest the monastery, was also made. A few concerning monastic centers to them. other children when they get older. When days later the Counselor said that she I wondered how the boys, who had I think of these boys, I think of my son. wanted to interview the children and stolen money from the Lama, run away summoned them to Thimphu. Pen- from their monastery, and now brought THE IRONY jore refused to come, but Thinley did sexual abuse charges against some of the The irony about sexual abuse cases in and gave the interview. In his state- monks, would want to talk to the very Bhutan is that if a boy (a monk) is raped ments to the counselor, in the pres- institution they were accusing. Would or sexually molested, he will not find ence of a guardian, he gave her a full they agree to speak? Would they retract justice the way a little girl can. While it is account of being sexually molested at their story? good that our system is more favorable the monastery, not once but several Again Penjore refused to go, but to girls, why should justice for little boys times. Then there was silence. Our Thinley did. And again, accompanied by take a back seat, just because they are counselor, we were told, was away on the same guardian, Penjore recounted monks? Do they have to compromise their without any variation of what had dignity and their rights so that the Institu- happened at the monastery in front of tions name can be protected? Should a the investigative unit. A month passed girl be raped or molested she can go to the The irony about again. By October, the investigative unit police, or any social organization that will at the Dratsang established that the boy readily pounce on the case and investigate sexual abuse was indeed telling the truth. But they it. If the perpetrator is found, he will be only singled one monk out, the 20 year charged with statutory rape and impris- cases in Bhutan old. They asked how we wanted the oned, the media will report it, and people is that if a case dealt with; in essence what kind will be incensed that such things happen of outcome would be desirable. Ac- to little girls. Even men who have had monk is raped cording to their code of conduct, when consensual sex with their girlfriends, 16 a monk did something wrong he was or 18 year olds, are charged with statutory or sexually ex-communicated. They would disrobe rape and have to live with being labeled molested, he him, throw flour on him in front of the rapists for the rest of their lives. The age other monks, and chase him from the of consent for sex is 18 and above and the will not find monastery. law is “supposedly” strictly enforced in To what end, I asked? What purpose order to ensure protection of women and justice the way a does it serve this problem of sexual mo- children. Why then is it different for these lestation in the institution if the monk is boys? Cases of sodomy, sexual molesta-

little girl can. Photo Courtesy: LEON RUBTEN

14 The Raven May / June, 2013 tion, or rape that occur in the monastic a sexually violated child, be it a boy or and that institution. Bhutan or Buddhist community to monks, even if they are girl, it be reported to the authorities, or institutions don’t have to follow that path. below 18 years of age, are not reported have they also been asked to collaborate The first step on the road to better this is to the police. If cases are taken to the in the silence when it comes to monks? to acknowledge that it is a serious social WCPU (The Women and Child Protec- With social problems like alcohol- problem. Allowing transparency and mak- tion Unit) at the police station, the po- ism, substance abuse, and violence ing these transgressions to be recognized lice will simply forward the case to the increasing in Bhutanese society, it is as crimes and prosecutable in the civil Dratsang (the Monastic Center), which time to take a serious look at the root court of law, rather than outside of it, has its own internal investigative unit problems, some of which may be, will save us. Should this not happen, the that will look into the case. Although sadly, stemming in our monastic insti- future of the Buddhist Institutions image the police say they do not differentiate tutions. And this is nothing surprising could suffer the same fate as that of the cases because the Dratsang forwards or new. It also doesn’t indicate that this Catholic Church. And this will happen not the case back to them, we don’t know happens in all our monastic institu- because people like me make such cases because it has never happened. tions, that all our monks live miser- public, but because even without my do- According to reports, the govern- able lives, or that it will destroy the ing so, people will learn that this is wrong ment doesn’t intervene in the monastic image of the Dratsang. This happens and lose respect for the monastic order. order because they have their own in many institutionalized religions all I say this not out of anything against the courts, which operate outside the penal over the world, with all faiths, and it Monastic Center, but because it is bound system. But this argument is not has nothing to do with that particular to happen and people are already talking uniformly respected because if a monk religion. There is no better example about it in private conversations. loots a monastery or a chorten he is than the tragedy of events in the Catho- According to studies by experts in tried under civil law, the way he would lic Church. In the Catholic Church, this field, it is very clear that people who for any other crime and the Dratsang abuses might have been more exten- inflict sexual crimes against children have would not be consulted? Then why sive and rampant, and were deliber- very often themselves been victims. Why is it that only sexual crimes in the ately hidden for many decades doing do these monks think it is acceptable or monk body are not subject to civil law? irreparable damage to the victims normal to do this? Because when it While attempts are being made by the Dratsang to bring changes within the (Continued on page 70) institution to improve the lives and living conditions of monks – establish- ing a child protection unit funded by UNICEF – a Kuensel article (25 March) reveals they still have a long way to go. Kuensel states that Sexually Transmit- ted Infections, piles, skin diseases, hypertension and other mental health issues are the most common ailments in the monk body. There are also five HIV positive monks, one of whom is only 19. A doctor at the Thimphu hospital told The Raven, on condition of anonymity, that it is almost every other day that he sees a monk that has ailments related to psychological issues or to private parts, some showing signs of abuse. Should a little girl go see a Doctor about her private parts being violated would he/she be required to report this to the police? Shouldn’t it be an absolute requirement that if a health-official comes across a case of Photo Courtesy: LEON RUBTEN

The Raven May / June, 2013 15 ARTICLE

IS INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY AN ENABLER?

Many events in the past two decades show that Information Technology (IT) on its own is not the business differentiator that people once believed it was, writes Thinlay Nono Wangchuk

ot so long ago, with the survey was conducted across 154 organi- therefore remain a risk to IT projects maturity and integration zations in North America, UK, Germany through its development and post- of technology in business and France and it revealed no surprises implementation. processes, the popular since the rift between business and IT Nslogan “IT is an enabler” was born. will always be a challenge in articulating Is IT in Bhutan Underutilised? True to the slogan, IT is only an business requirements into intangible Recently, according to Kuensel Is IT an enabler?Is IT anIsIsIs enabler? ITITITIs Is enablerIT IT ananan an and enabler? itenabler? was enabler?realisedenabler? painfully software end-products. and The Bhutanese, International through the failure of numerous IT No such survey such as the distribu- Finance Corporation (IFC) published projects across the globe, primarily tion of success and faliure across project a report on “Ease of doing business” Many eventsMany in theeventsManyMany ManypastMany Manyduein toeventsevents eventstwo theeventsthe gap betweenin in the thedecadespast thepast past inbusiness inintwo two the decades twothedecadesthesize pastorshow analysisshowpastdecadespast that that(next twoInformation page)Information two thathavetwo beendecades Technologyshow Technology decadesdecadesInformationwhich ranked(IT) (IT)that on showBhutanon its its own148 own show Informationout showis of isthatnot 185not the theTechnology that Informationthat Information TechnologyInformation (IT) Technology on (IT)Technology itsTechnology on own(IT) its onis own itsnot(IT) (IT) own istheon not on isits notthe itsown theown is notis not the the business differentiatorbusiness businessbusinessdifferentiatorbusiness thatbusinessbusinessaspects anddifferentiatorpeople differentiator IT.differentiatordifferentiator Gartner, a thatglobalthat that oncepeople IT people peopleonce onceconducted believedbelieved believed that in thatBhutan.that it itwas,once was,people But writes givenwritespeople people the itThinlay believedThinlay small was, once Nonocountries, Nono onceWangchuk Wangchukonce orwritesbelieved second it last was, believed inbelieved South Thinlay itwrites was, it it was,writesThinlayNono was, writes Thinlay Wangchukwrites Nono Thinlay NonoWangchukThinlay Wangchuk Nono Nono Wangchuk Wangchuk research body, in its 2012 IT project size of the public and private sector, Asia. This particular survey was con- survey pointed to functionality issues, and the fact that business processes are ducted for business specifically, but Not so longNot ago, so withlongNotNotNot the Notago, Notsososubstantialso so so long longlongmaturitylong delays, withago, ago, qualitywith with ago, ago,ago,issues,the the maturity highmaturity with and maturitywithwith inand generaland integration integrationthe notintegration visible,thethe maturityofdocumented of technology and technologymaturitymaturity or integrationin in howbusiness business andofabout regular processes, technology andprocesses, andintegration public andthe theintegration private ofpopularintegration popular technology ofin technologybusiness of of technologyin technology business processes, in business processes,in inbusiness theprocesses,business popular the processes, popularprocesses,the popular the the popular popular cost variance, cancelation after launch, practiced, functional issues related to service processes that affect citizens in slogan “IT isslogan an enabler” “ITslogansloganslogan is anslogan sloganwasrejection enabler” “IT“IT“IT “IT oris isnonanborn. an enabler”isimplementationis enabler” an anan was was enabler” was enabler”forborn.enabler” born. time born. and costs was can wasbewas predicted born. toborn. affectborn. every walk of life? Visiting the hospi- other reasons as the causes of IT project IT projects. Business processes are ulti- tal, transferring land records, open- mately the single most critical factor for ing a bank account, acquiring a loan, TrueTrueTrueTrueTrue failure. tototo to to the thethethe slogan, slogan, slogan, ITslogan, IT is isonly only an an enabler enabler IT IT ITandis and itis onlyis itwas was only realisedonly realised an painfully painfully anenableran through enabler throughenabler the the failureand failure of ofand numerousit numerousand was it IT IT it realisedwas was realised realised painfully painfully painfully through through thethrough failure the theof failure numerous failure of ofnumerous IT numerous IT IT True to the Trueslogan, to theIT is slogan, only The Gartner an surveyIT enabler(below)is only segre- any an successful and enabler IT project it implementationwas and realised application it was and renewal painfully realisedof licenses et painfully through through the failure the failureof numerous of numerous IT IT projects acrossprojects the projectsprojectsacrossglobe,projectsprojectsprojectsgated ITthe across primarilyprojects across acrossacross thebased theglobe, globe, uponglobe, amount primarily the primarilythethe dueprimarily becausedueglobe, due globe,toglobe, it to providestheto the gap gap a theworkflowprimarilybetween between due primarilyprimarily and thegap sub-the businessto businessal. arebetweenduethe examplesaspects aspects due of duegaptoand businessand IT. IT. the Gartner, processes to Gartner,between tothe gapthe a athe business betweengap gap the between betweenbusiness theaspects business the aspects theand business business aspectsIT. and Gartner, IT.aspectsand aspects Gartner, IT. a Gartner, and and a IT. IT.aGartner, Gartner, a a global IT researchglobal ITbody, globalglobalresearchglobalglobal globalandin uncovered ITITIT IT researchits research researchbody,research that 2012 thebody, body, failure in inrate itsin its 2012IT 2012 body,its ITprocessesbody, body,projectIT project project2012 for survey IT insurvey systems in itsinpointed IT pointed to survey be its its2012 designedproject to to functionality 2012functionality2012 whereIT pointed IT project issues, surveycould issues,IT IT enable substantialproject substantialproject better functionsurveypointedto delays, delays,- functionality survey survey pointed to functionalitypointed pointed to issues,functionality to to functionality issues, substantialfunctionality issues, substantial substantial delays,issues, issues, delays, substantial delays,substantial delays, delays, for IT project exceeding USD 1 mil- and developed more easily. Without ality and services. quality issues,quality high issues, qualityqualitycostqualityquality qualitylion variance,high was issues, issues,issues,almostissues, high 50% highcost highercost cost thanvariance, high variance, cancelationhighhigh variance,for cancelation acancelationcost standard costcost business after variance,after cancelation variance,processlaunch, variance,launch, after in rejectionplace, rejection cancelation or or launch, non non For cancelation implementation instance,cancelation implementationafter a high numberrejectionlaunch, for forafter ofother other after launch,after rejection or launch, nonlaunch, rejection orimplementation rejectionnon rejection or implementation non orimplementation or non nonfor implementation other implementation for otherfor other for for other other reasons as thereasons causes asreasonsreasonsreasons theofreasons reasonsIT projectscauses projectas as asthe asbelow the causes causes USDthethe 350,000. ofof of ITcauses IT projectfailure.causesITcauses projectThe project failure. failure.functional of issuesof ofIT cannot failure. ITprojectIT beproject resolvedproject and failure.Bhutanese failure. failure. applying for scholarships abroad are required to obtain notarisa- tion of their educational certificates, Percentage of Respondents which is currently a cumbersome 100 8 6 7 business process. A visit to the public 90 12 11 notary office is redirected to the 17 80 11 Dzongkhag court, where one has to 12 70 Other reasons queue up for a court hearing just to be 16 24 Poor quality told that the covering letter needs to be 60 22 Canceled after launch readdressed and a copy of the national 50 14 High cost variance ID card must be attached. And, due to 40 23 24 28 Substantially late allocated time restriction at the hear- 30 Functionality issue ing bench, the resubmission is done 20 the following day. The waiting time is 22 24 long alongside marital, criminal and 10 22 other hearings. Then the clearance has 0 to be presented to the public notary Small IT projects Medium IT projects Large IT projects office at another location, where again Figure 1: WhyFigure project 1:Figure FigureWhyFigure fail?FigureFigure project 1:(Source:1:1: W1: Whyhy Why p rojeWhyWhy project cprojectts fail? fail? fail?(S ofail?uproject r cproject e:project(Source: G(Source:Gartnerartner (Source: 2012) Gartner Gartner fail? 2012) fail? 2012)fail? 2012) (Source:Gartner (Source:(Source: Gartner you2012) need Gartner toGartner have additional 2012) copies 2012) of 2012)

16 The Raven May / June, 2013 The GartnerThe survey Gartner ThesegregatedTheThe survey The GartnerGartnerTheGartner Gartner Gartner survey survey segregated IT segregatedsurvey segregatedsurveysurvey projects IT IT projects projectssegregated segregatedsegregated basedIT based based uponprojects upon amount amount IT uponand and projectsuncovered IT uncoveredbasedIT projects projectsamount that that the uponthe based failure failure rate basedrate amountandbased for forupon IT IT uncovered upon amountupon and amount uncovered amount and that uncovered and the and that uncoveredfailure uncovered the that failurerate the thatfailure for thatrate ITthe rateforthe failure IT forfailure IT rate rate for forIT IT project exceedingproject USDexceedingprojectprojectproject project1project million exceeding exceedingexceedingexceeding USD USD USD 1was 11million million million wasUSD was almostUSD USDalmost almost 150% 50% was 1million 1higher higher million50%million than almostthan for for wasIThigher IT projects projects was wasalmost50% below below almost thanUSD USDalmosthigher 350,000. 350,000.50% for The The 50% higher than 50%IT projectshigher for higherthan IT forprojectsthan belowthan IT projectsfor for belowUSD IT ITprojects below350,000.projects USD USD350,000. below Thebelow 350,000. USD The USD The350,000. 350,000. The The survey was surveyconducted wassurveysurveysurvey conductedsurveyacrosssurvey was waswas conducted conducted 154conductedconductedconducted across acrossacross organisations154 154 organisations organisations 154across acrossin acrossin North organisationsNorth America, America,154 in 154 154UK, UK,organisations NorthGermany Germany organisationsorganisations and andin France FranceAmerica, North and and it itin NorthAmerica, inUK, in North America,NorthGermany UK, America, America,Germany UK, and Germany UK,France andUK, Germany FranceandGermany and France it and and and and itFrance Franceit and and it it revealed norevealed surprisesrevealed revealednorevealed since revealedsurprisesrevealed no no the surprisesno nosurprises surprises riftsurprisessincesurprisessince since the thebetween rift rift betweenthe between since businessriftsince sincebusiness betweenandthebusiness and IT theIT thewill willrift always always rift riftbetween be be abusiness andachallenge betweenchallengebetween inIT in articulating articulatingbusiness will and business businessalways IT andwill IT bealwaysand willand a IT challengealways IT bewill will a alwayschallengebe always ain challenge articulating be be ina articulatingchallengea inchallenge articulating in inarticulating articulating business requirementsbusiness businessbusinessrequirementsbusiness intobusinessbusiness requirementsintangible requirements requirementsrequirements intointo into intangible intangible intangiblesoftware software software into end into intoend‐products. ‐products.intangible intangible endsoftwareintangible ‐products. software end software software‐products. end‐ products.end end ‐products.‐products.

Is IT an enabler? Is IT anIs IT anenabler? enabler?

Many events in the pastMany two decadeseventsMany events inshow the thepast two that pastdecades showInformationtwo that Informationdecades Technology Technology show (IT) on its ownthat is not(IT) theInformation on its own Technology is not the (IT) on its own is not the business differentiator thatbusiness peoplebusiness differentiatoronce differentiator believed that people itthat once was, believed people itwrites was, writes once Thinlay Thinlay Nono believed Wangchuk Nono it Wangchuk was, writes Thinlay Nono Wangchuk

Not so long ago, with theNot maturity so longNot so andlong ago, ago, integrationwith withthe maturity the and integration ofmaturity technology of technology and in business integrationin processes, business the popular ofprocesses, technology the inpopular business processes, the popular slogan “IT is an enabler” wasslogan born. “ITslogan is “IT anis an enabler” enabler” was born. was born.

True to the slogan, IT is Isonly ITTrue an enabler?an to Isenabler ITtheTrue an to enabler? theslogan, slogan, and IT is onlyit IT anwas enableris only realised and it was an realised enabler painfully painfully through and the through failure it ofwas numerous therealised IT failure painfully of numerous through IT the failure of numerous IT projects across the globe, projects primarily projectsacross due across the tothe globe, the primarilyglobe, gap due to primarilythebetween gap between the theduebusiness businessaspectsto theand IT. Gartner,gap aspects a between and IT.the Gartner, business a aspects and IT. Gartner, a global IT research body,Many inglobal events its in2012 the ManyIT pastglobal eventsresearch two IT IT decades research inproject the pastshow body, two that body,in decadesits surveyInformation 2012 ITshow projectin Technologythat itspointed survey Information 2012 pointed(IT) on Technology toits to functionalityITown functionalityprojectis (IT)not on theissues, its own substantial surveyis not the delays, issues, pointed substantial to functionality delays, issues, substantial delays, quality issues, high costbusiness variance,quality differentiatorbusiness issues, thatquality cancelation differentiatorpeople issues, once highhigh believed that cost people variance, it was,cost afteronce writes cancelation believed variance,Thinlay launch, it was, afterNono writes launch, Wangchuk Thinlay rejectioncancelation Nono or Wangchuk non implementation or nonafter for otherimplementation launch, rejection for orother non implementation for other reasons as the causes of ITreasons project reasonsas failure. the as the causescauses of IT project of failure. IT project failure. Not so long ago, withNot sothe long maturity ago, withand integrationthe maturity of and technology integration in businessof technology processes, in business the popular processes, the popular slogan “IT is an enabler”slogan was “IT isborn. an enabler” was born.

True to the slogan,True IT is toonly the an slogan, enabler IT isand only it wasan enabler realised and painfully it was through realised thepainfully failure through of numerous the failure IT of numerous IT projects across theprojects globe, acrossprimarily the due globe, to theprimarily gap between due to the gapbusiness between aspects the andbusiness IT. Gartner, aspects a and IT. Gartner, a global IT research globalbody, inIT itsresearch 2012 IT body, project in itssurvey 2012 pointed IT project to surveyfunctionality pointed issues, to functionality substantial issues,delays, substantial delays, quality issues, highquality cost variance, issues, high cancelation cost variance, after launch,cancelation rejection after orlaunch, non implementation rejection or non for implementation other for other reasons as the causesreasons of IT asproject the causes failure. of IT project failure.

Figure 1: Why project fail?Figure (Source: 1:Figure WhyGartner 1: Why project fail?2012) (Source: fail? Gartner (Source: 2012) Gartner 2012)

The Gartner survey segregatedThe Gartner IT projectsThe Gartner survey survey basedsegregated segregated IT projectsupon based amount upon IT amount projects and and uncovered uncovered thatbased the failure rateupon for that IT amount the failure and rate uncovered for IT that the failure rate for IT project exceeding USD 1 projectmillion wasexceedingproject exceeding almost USD 1USD million50% was 1 almosthigher million 50% higher than thanwas for forIT almostprojects IT below projects USD50% 350,000. higher Thebelow thanUSD for350,000. IT projects The below USD 350,000. The survey was conducted acrosssurvey 154 wassurvey organisations was conducted conducted across 154 organisationsacrossin North in North154 America,America, organisations UK, Germany UK, and France Germany andin it North and America, France andUK, Germanyit and France and it revealed no surprises sincerevealed the riftrevealed no between nosurprises surprises since businessthe riftsince between business theand andrift IT IT will willbetween always bealways a challenge business inbe articulating a challenge and IT willin articulating always be a challenge in articulating business requirements intobusiness intangiblebusiness requirements requirementssoftware into intangible end into software‐products. intangible end‐products. software end‐products.

the certificate as well as a copy of the Large IT projects 72 28 Figure 1: Why projectFigure fail?(Cost 1: over(Source: Why $1M) project Gartner fail? 2012) (Source: Gartner 2012) IS INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY AN ENABLER? national ID card before the notary is is- sued. Besides this tedious bureaucratic process, there is no actual check for authenticity,The it seems Gartner these surveyprocessesThe segregated MidsizeGartner IT projects surveyIT projects segregated based upon IT 75projects amount based and uponuncovered amount25 that and the uncovered failure rate that for the IT failure rate for IT ($350,000 to $1M) are there merelyproject for formalitiesexceeding sake. projectUSD 1 millionexceeding was USD almost 1 million 50% higher was almost than for50% IT higherprojects than below for ITUSD projects 350,000. below The USD 350,000. The Another example is the process to obtain a taxsurvey exemption was clearance conducted forsurvey across was conducted154 organisations across 154in Northorganisations America, in UK, North Germany America, and UK, France Germany and itand France and it a hotel constructorrevealed that noinvolves surprises six revealed Smallsince IT noprojectsthe surprises rift between since business the rift80 betweenand IT will business always andbe20 aIT challenge will always in articulatingbe a challenge in articulating major steps that takes about two weeks ($350,000) to complete.business From obtaining requirements the taxbusiness into requirementsintangible software into intangible end‐products. software end‐products. exemption form from the Department 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 of Revenue and Customs and verifying Percentage of Respondents the hotel list from the Tourism Coun- % Success % Failure cil, to obtaining the tax code manual from Kuensel and filling the form and manually searching for each item code, tem dictates it be otherwise. The lessons multiple authorities and the end users. the process can be tiresome. Add to learnt from the implementation of nu- To cite an example, in Denmark, that obtaining TCB approval and then merous Enterprise Resource Planning something similar to Bhutan’s national finally submitting it to the Revenue and (ERP) systems globally and most re- ID number is called Centralised Civil Customs for tax exemption. In most cently in Bhutan by Druk Holding and Registry (CCR) number consisting of procedures the National ID card serves Investment (DHI) , Druk Green Power a ten-digit number with a DDMMYY- only as an attendance formality, whilst Corporation (DGPC) and Bhutan Power SSSS format, where the first six consist a photocopy must always be attached Corporation (BPC) clearly demonstrates of the date of birth and the latter four increasing paper trails and consump- that all existing manual, administrative a sequence number with the last digits and legal system processes need to be representing even numbers for females tion. There are many more examples captured and reengineered before even and odd numbers for males. This num- of lengthy, unclear and some clearly attempting an ERP implementation. A ber and ID card serve as personal iden- redundant business procedures that robust business process is at the heart tification in all public, and even some should be reviewed to make the system of IT projects, and any organisation private matters, and no further authen- more efficient. If this is seen to be intending to computerise its business tication or photocopies are required. tedious for a businessman living in processes and services must first have The central registration system contains Thimphu or in the vicinity of the capi- a fully functional and clearly defined basic personal details of every citizen tal, imagine what it is like for people paper-based business process in place. and there is an Act guiding the system who come from the districts and far Standards such as ISO 9001 Quality to avoid conflicts, privacy and misuse. flung areas. Distance, connectivity, Management System can ensure neces- communication and general literacy sary support, provided it is adopted in make processes more daunting. These real and not just on paper. Any organisation bureaucratic processes may have been set up to curb fraud and provide audit A comprehensive IT plan should take intending to trails from the governance perspective, into consideration the end-users computerise its but confined in silos with each author- Looking abroad, many govern- ity imposing own requirements makes ments and corporates conduct analysis business processes it a cumbersome process, that eats regularly to understand the ground must first have away at efficiency and productivity. And reality and improve business processes. with such a system, what use then is The processes are discussed, communi- a functional and IT, when it should be there to act as an cated, implemented and documented, defined paper- enabler and computerise the workflow often in cooperation with public and based business because of the complexities and siloed private sectors and end users, to put in processes, but cannot because the sys- place business processes and related IT process in place. systems that satisfy the requirements of

The Raven May / June, 2013 17 ARTICLE

The central registration is at the rootFEA TandURE advanced systems, it is because of of Denmark’s citizen Information how technology is used to enable a fair System and with strict data security and efficient process that takes away only certain relevant data required from all the red tape and bureaucratic The aspiration of by health, financial institutions, tax, procedures. Bhutan to be a BPO police, education et al is shared. In the long run, Bhutan could destination can The benefit of such a system is benefit from having similar systems in that from one data source several or- place to improve workflow and servic- only be realized if ganisations reap the benefit of a struc- es. The National ID database must, in the government tured business process and closely that case, be governed by an act to en- associated IT system. For instance, if a sure security and so specific data from and corporates citizen moves within the country, the the national ID database can be shared can successfully person is required to inform the new with relevant authorities and registered local authority or update their address organisations to avoid data duplica- reengineer online, which automatically triggers tion, increase accuracy, reduce data business processes. the postal address to be changed so all entry, and improve services. Adopting mail to the old address is automatical- a BPM can then potentially increase ly redirected, all public service such as Return on Investment through shared the police system, bank, tax authority, services by standardising financial, payroll and health care system are also human resource and accounting across productivity on all fronts. updated at the back-end automatically. the government. Similarly, citizens The aspiration of Bhutan to In another instance, if an accident can benefit from simpler and shorter be a Business Process Outsourcing occurs and the citizen is unconscious processes and one-stop-shop services (BPO) destination can only be real- the moment the ambulance person- that is attempted by the G2C Govern- ized if the government and corporates nel gets hold of the CPR number, the ment to Citizen (G2C)service more can successfully reengineer business emergency health service is able to effectively. processes, and then computerise and know the person’s medical history, When designing business pro- outsource its own processes to special- medical allergies, relatives, etc. Fur- cesses, three types of process models ized agencies within the country. It ther, the number is also used for sub- for management, operational and isn’t late for Bhutan since the govern- scription to a number of public and support processes are generally used ment has not implemented any tier-1 private services such as telephone and and adopted. According to a Busi- ERP system as of date, and it will be internet, insurance, library and sports ness Process Management life-cycle wise to establish a cross-functional clubs. The list of benefits of integrated process design, modelling, execution, strategic team to study the public and systems is long, spanning all areas of monitoring and optimization are private sectors, produce a strategy for public services because cross-sectional steps required to move away from the a short and long action plan to imple- business processes foster IT systems traditional hierarchical management, ment BPM. In the South Asian region to integrate seamlessly. This automa- reducing bottlenecks and producing Bhutan’s civil service is well reputed tion does not happen effortlessly, but leaner processes. From an IT perspec- for the highest percentage of post-grad- is the result of strategic cooperation tive, policies and procedures with fewer uates, therefore it is only obvious that and planning across ministries and ambiguities allow easier cross-minis- a strong team can be formed nationally sectors so that processes are designed terial or cross-sectoral collaboration with external advisors. It is achievable with the end goal and meet multiple which ensures easier implementation but it requires cross ministry and cross requirements. of projects, with higher project success, sector agreements if we truly want “IT Such systems should be in place lower cost and timeliness in the long to be an enabler”. to improve overall efficiency of work run. For a small country with limited processes benefiting both employees resources, optimizing the use of IT who are engaged in providing these to enable efficiency and productivity The writer holds a MSc in IT from the University of Liverpool, UK. He is currently services as well as private citizens. could have huge advantages in terms of working with UNFPA in Bhutan. When people talk about efficiency cost-reduction, improved efficiency and

18 The Raven May / June, 2013 “Our handlooms have evolved over the centuries and reflect the ountry’c s distinctive identity. Most of the designs and patterns of weave are unique to the country. Bhutanese weavers have been very innovative in their designs while maintaining the traditional character of the art.” Her Majesty the Queen Mother Sangay Choden Wangchuck EXHIBITION Opening on 5 June 2013 THAGZO hutan has adopted Gross National Happiness (GNH) as a development philosophy since Bthe 1970s when the concept was introduced. The preservation of culture has been regarded as one of its pillars. As such Bhutan considers safeguarding THAGZO and promoting its cultural heritage to be of vital importance. Our culture, apart from informing the world about who we are, also deﬁnes our way of life, the diversity, the expressions and the way it contributes to the growth of the country.

Weaving is one of the core components of our culture. “Thagzo: The Textile Weaves of Bhutan” A cultural hub such as the Royal Textile Academy – published to commemorate the inauguration of the has been initiated by Her Majesty Gyalyum Sangay Royal Textile Academy – presents the ﬁnest hand- Choden Wangchuck to preserve and promote the woven weaves from Bhutan. Ranging from pieces living art of weaving, thagzo. The Academy will not woven on traditional looms to textiles that have been only highlight the importance of this art but also revive carefully cut and sewn together, it includes, for the ﬁrst and propagate the traditional techniques in dyeing The TextileThe WeavesBhutan of time, the Royal Wedding attires of Their Majesties and weaving by providing trainings and studies to all the King Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck and the interested individuals. This no doubt will go a long Queen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck. way in sustaining our tradition in this globalizing era.

All items in this exhibition catalogue have been selected DORJI TSHERING based on their quality, workmanship, and provenance Director General, Department of Culture record in consultation with master weavers, textile Ministry of Home & Cultural Affairs experts and learned Buddhist scholars. HISTORY ON TAPESTRY Bhutanese textiles seem to have served another purpose, besides being used as clothing In addition to the brilliant photographic displays, the and objects of adornment. Careful observation of some of the motifs woven into the catalogue also includes an article that will enhance the body of the textiles reveal images of birds and animals that we did not know existed reader’s understanding of our weaving heritage and its “Thagzo: The Textile Weaves of Bhutan” provides a in Bhutan during the times when these textiles were woven. One such motif is that of evolution over the years. A detailed write-up on the glimpse into the diverse textile and adornment culture Royal Textile Academy will shed light on its role in the image of a bird depicted on one of the Chagsi Pangkheps (exhibit #2003.09.004 of the Bhutanese. The palette ranges from the regal royal preserving and protecting the living heritage of thagzo RTA) that has a striking resemblance to the world’s rarest heron found in Bhutan. ceremonial ghos and kiras to the humble utilitarian – the art of weaving. It is generally accepted that the critically endangered White-bellied Heron (Ardea everyday tunics of the yak herding nomads. Each item It is our sincere hope that the publication of this insignis) was first discovered in Punakha in 1974. But now it becomes apparent that has been given its designated place within Bhutan’s th exhibition catalogue will help generate interest and the birds existed in Bhutan way before the 19 Century. Also, for the Bhutanese sophisticated material culture in this publication. support for the priceless weaving traditions of our weavers of those days to have been able to replicate the physical features of the bird The book addresses not only the un-initiated into the kingdom. with such exactness, their numbers must have been pretty abundant. Bhutanese textile arts but also satisfies the thirst of academics and textile professionals alike, with detailed RINZIN O. DORJI YESHEY DORJI, Photographer technical notes on each of the items. Executive Director, Royal Textile Academy The goal of the RTA is to preserve and promote weaving in Bhutan in an ever-changing socio-economic and cultural landscape. Laudable within the national context, yet, the impact and the significance of such objectives transcend time, space, cultures and national Sponsors boundaries; the preservation and promotion of Bhutanese weaving is an essential and vital universal expression of the essence of humanity itself. The Textile Weaves of Bhutan JOSEPH LO UN Consultant on Culture and Development http://www.royaltextileacademy.org RTA 2013 & long time student of Bhutan’s weaving tradition

Thagzo_FJkct_pap.indd 1 Royal Textile Academy of Bhutan 26/03/13 5:24 PM www.royaltextileacademy.org photo essay

freelance photographer leon rubten captures various images at night and in black & white from various settings in this photo essay. his works can be viewed at his studio - photography bhutan, thimphu.

20 The Raven May / June, 2013 photo essay photo essay

24 The Raven May / June, 2013 The Raven May / June, 2013 25 HAPPENINGS

Private firm in Bhutan gets recognized internationally

private company in Bhutan, Jigme Industries Private Limited (JIPL) has been internationally Arecognized and awarded for its efficient service delivery and environmental concerns. The company which was established in 2005 as a subsidiary company of Jigme Mining Corporation Limited (JMCL) and operates under the chairmanship of Dasho Ugen Dorji of the Lhaki Group, is based in Pagli. Last month, it was bestowed winner of the Business Initiative Directions International Arch of Europe award which saw particiaption from 72

countries around the world. The receiving the award, sonam tobgay dorji (Vice chairman) and ugyen kesang (ceo) ceremony was held in Frankfurt, Germany. According to the Business is based on the criteria of the QC100 model, leaders presented their compa- Initative Directionts, “recognition implemented in over 100 countries. Business nies for an international audience and participated in conferences regarding quality case studies in companies in search of quality and excellence.” Jigme Industries Private Limited processes and markets Low Silica dolomite. A press release from the company stated, it was JIPL’s “ability to maintain quality as per international standards as well as customer satisfaction for overseas markets by continually improving effectiveness of the overall management system,” that allowed them to compete internationally. Sonam Tobgay Dorji, Vice Chairman, and the company’s CEO Ugyen Kesang were in Frankfurt to receive the Award from the Presi- dent of B.I.D., Jose E. Prieto.

lhaki ceo ugyen kesang

26 The Raven May / June, 2013 Lhaki Enterprises humbly wishes Her Majesty Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck an everlasting peace, properity and happiness on Her Majesty’s 22nd birth anniversary, June 4, 2012

Lhaki Steels & Rolling Pvt. Ltd. Jigme Mining Corporation Ltd. Jigme Industries Pvt. Ltd. Corporate Office – Phuentsholing, Chhukha, BHUTAN. Corporate & Mines Office, Corporate & Mines Office , Telephone : 00975-5-251640, Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Fax : 00975-5-252909, Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Email: [email protected]. India Office Fax #: 00975-77992090, Fax #: 00975-77992090, Factory – Pasakha, Chhukha, BHUTAN. PCM Tower, Sevoke Road, Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Telephone : 00975-5-261317, Siliguri- 734001, West Bengal Fax : 00975-5-261210,LhakiTel: +91-90020-08900, Head Office Email: [email protected] Fax: +91-353-2540734

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For requirement of steelbars,cement, dolomite chips & powders please contact the respective industries/companies or Mr.Namgay (Manager) Lhaki Cement Lhaki Head Office, CorporateLhaki & Factory Cement Office Quality Approval Certificates Gomtu, Samtse, BHUTAN. TelephoneCorporate : 00975-5-371042, & Factory 2nd floor City Mall, Bhutan Standards Bureau Bureau of Indian Standards Fax : 00975-5-371020, 1. Cement(OPC-33 and OPC43 1. Cement-IS 269:1989, IS 8112:1989 and IS 455:1989 Email:Office, [email protected] Gomtu, Samtse,Bhutan, Chubachu, Thimphu. 2. Reinforcement Bars(Fe-500) 2. Reinforcement Bars- IS 1786:2008 [email protected] : 00975-5-371042, Tele #- 00975-2-322570, Fax : 00975-5-371020, Fax #- 00975-2-323916, Email : [email protected], Mobile #- 00975-17115233 [email protected]

JIGME INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD Lhaki EnterprisesCorporate & Mines Office, humbly wishes Her MajestyPugli,Samtse,Bhutan. Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck an nd everlasting peace, properityTelephone and # happiness00975-1760158, on Her Majesty’s 22 birthFax# anniversary, 00975-77992090, June 4, 2012 LhakiEmail Enterprises : [email protected] humbly wishes Her Majesty Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck an everlasting peace, properity and happiness on Her Majesty’s 22nd JIGMEbirth anniversary, MINING June CORPORATION 4, 2012 LTD Corporate & Mines Office, Pugli,Samtse,Bhutan. Telephone # 00975-1760158, Fax# 00975-77992090, Email: [email protected]

Lhaki Steels & Rolling Pvt. Ltd. JigmeQUALITY Mining Corporation APPROVAL Ltd. CERTIFICATESJigme Industries Pvt. Ltd. Corporate Office – Phuentsholing, Chhukha, BHUTAN. Corporate & Mines Office, Corporate & Mines Office , Lhaki Steels & RollingTelephone Pvt. Ltd. : 00975-5-251640, BhutanPugli, Samtse, StandardsJigme BHUTAN. Mining Bureau Corporation Ltd. Bureau of IndianJigmePugli, IndustriesStandards Samtse, Pvt.BHUTAN. Ltd. Corporate Office – Phuentsholing,Fax : 00975-5-252909, Chhukha, BHUTAN. Lhaki Enterprises Telephone #:Corporate 00975-17160158, & Mines Office, CorporateTelephone & Mines #: Office00975-17160158, , Telephone : 00975-5-251640,Email: [email protected]. India Office Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Fax : 00975-5-252909, Fax #: 00975-77992090, 1.Cement-IS 269:1989,isFax #: 00975-77992090, 8112:1989 Factory – Pasakha, Chhukha, BHUTAN. PCM Tower, Sevoke Road, 1.Cement(OPC-33Telephone and #: 00975-17160158, opc-43) Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Email: [email protected]. India Office Lhaki Enterprises humbly wishes Her Majesty Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck an and is 455:1089 Email: [email protected] #: 00975-77992090, FaxEmail: #: 00975-77992090, [email protected] Factory – Pasakha, Chhukha,Telephone BHUTAN. : 00975-5-261317,PCM Tower, Sevoke Road, Siliguri- 734001, West Bengal nd everlasting peace, properity and happiness on Her Majesty’s 22 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Telephone : 00975-5-261317, Siliguri- 734001, West Bengal humbly wishes Her Majesty Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck an 2.Reinforcement Bars (Fe-500) 2.Reinforcement Bars –IS 1786:2008 Fax : 00975-5-261210, Tel: +91-90020-08900, Fax : 00975-5-261210, Email: [email protected]: +91-90020-08900, Fax: +91-353-2540734 birth anniversary, June 4, 2012 Email: [email protected] Fax: +91-353-2540734 everlasting peace, properity and happiness on Her Majesty’s 22nd Gold categoeryGold ESQRGold categoery Award categoery ESQR Trophy- Award ESQR 2011 Trophy- Award 2011 Trophy-2011 ISOISO Certifications CertificationsISO certifications Lhakibirth anniversary, Enterprises June 4, 2012 humbly wishes Her Majesty Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck an everlasting peace, properity and happiness on Her Majesty’s 22nd birth anniversary, June 4, 2012 Lhaki Cement Corporate & Factory Office Quality Approval Certificates Gomtu, Samtse, BHUTAN. Telephone : 00975-5-371042,Lhaki Cement Bhutan Standards Bureau Bureau of Indian Standards Fax : 00975-5-371020,Corporate & Factory Office Lhaki Steels & Rolling Pvt. Ltd. 1. Cement(OPC-33Quality and OPC43 Approval1. Cement-IS Certificates 269:1989, IS 8112:1989 and IS 455:1989 Email: [email protected], Samtse, BHUTAN. Jigme Mining Corporation Ltd. Jigme Industries Pvt. Ltd. 2. ReinforcementCorporate Bars(Fe-500)Lhaki Office Steels – Phuentsholing,2. Reinforcement& Rolling Bars-Chhukha, IS Pvt.Ltd 1786:2008 BHUTAN. [email protected] Telephone : 00975-5-371042, Corporate & Mines Office, Corporate & Mines Office , Telephone : 00975-5-251640, Bhutan Standards Bureau Bureau of Indian Standards Fax : 00975-5-371020, Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. FaxCorporate : 00975-5-252909, Office – Phuentsholing, Chhukha, Bhutan. Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Telephone #: 00975-17160158, 1. Cement(OPC-33 and OPC43Email:Telephone: [email protected]. Cement-IS 00975-5-251640, 269:1989, IS 8112:1989India Office and IS 455:1989 Email: [email protected] Fax #: 00975-77992090, Fax #: 00975-77992090, 2. Reinforcement Bars(Fe-500)Factory – Pasakha,2. Reinforcement Chhukha, BHUTAN. Bars- IS 1786:2008PCM Tower, Sevoke Road, [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] TelephoneFax: :00975-5-252909, 00975-5-261317, Email:Siliguri- 734001, steel@lhakigroup. West Bengal Lhaki Steels & Rolling Pvt. Ltd. Faxcom. : 00975-5-261210, Factory– Pasakha,Chhukha,Tel: +91-90020-08900, Bhutan Jigme Mining Corporation Ltd. Jigme Industries Pvt. Ltd. Corporate Office – Phuentsholing, Chhukha, BHUTAN. Email: [email protected] Fax: +91-353-2540734 Corporate & Mines Office, Corporate & Mines Office , Telephone:00975-5-261317, Fax:00975-5-261210, Gold categoery ESQR Award Trophy-Telephone 2011 : 00975-5-251640, ISO Certifications Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Fax : 00975-5-252909, Email: [email protected] Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Email: [email protected]. India Office Fax #: 00975-77992090, Fax #: 00975-77992090, Factory – Pasakha,Lhaki Chhukha, Steels BHUTAN. & Rolling Pvt.PCM Ltd. Tower, Sevoke Road, India Office, PCM Tower, Sevoke Road, Email: [email protected] Mining Corporation Ltd. Email: [email protected] Industries Pvt. Ltd. Telephone : 00975-5-261317,Corporate Office – Phuentsholing,Siliguri- 734001,Chhukha, West BHUTAN. Bengal Siliguri-734001,West Bengal, Corporate & Mines Office, Corporate & Mines Office , Fax : 00975-5-261210,Telephone : 00975-5-251640,Tel: +91-90020-08900, Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Pugli, Samtse, BHUTAN. Email: [email protected] : 00975-5-252909, Fax: +91-353-2540734 Tel:+91900208900, Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Telephone #: 00975-17160158, Email: [email protected]. India Office Fax:+91-353-2540734 Gold categoery ESQR Award Trophy-Fax 2011#: 00975-77992090, ISO Certifications Fax #: 00975-77992090, Factory – Pasakha, Chhukha, BHUTAN. PCM Tower, SevokeLhaki Road, Cement Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Telephone : 00975-5-261317, Siliguri- 734001,Corporate West Bengal & Factory Office Quality ApprovalFax Certificates : 00975-5-261210, Tel: +91-90020-08900,Gomtu, Samtse, BHUTAN. Email: [email protected] Fax: +91-353-2540734Telephone : 00975-5-371042, Bhutan Standards Bureau Bureau of Indian Standards Fax : 00975-5-371020, 1. Cement(OPC-33 and OPC43 1. Cement-IS 269:1989, IS 8112:1989 and IS 455:1989 Email: [email protected] Gold categoery ESQR Award Trophy- 2011 ISO Certifications 2. Reinforcement Bars(Fe-500) 2. Reinforcement Bars- IS 1786:2008 [email protected]

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Electing a Candidate By ARIEL LEBOWITZ

hoosing who is going to lead So with all this information flying their parliamentary work.”Most legisla- your country is a difficult around, I was curious as to how the Bhu- tions will emanate from the National yet important choice. And tanese people, in only the second national Assembly, which will be elected over the how you make that decision election, would choose for whom to vote next few months; however, the National Cdepends on who you are and what is for the National Council, the apolitical Council is also able to introduce legisla- significant for you. In their attempts Upper House of the bicameral Parliament. tion, except money bills and financial to sway voters’ opinions, political The National Council of Bhutan consists bills. The NC as a whole is there to act candidates make promises about of 25 members, one from each of the 20 as the house of sober second thought, as the role they will fulfill and the laws Dzongkhags and five members nominated they say in Canada, with the mission “To they will pass, and make speeches by the Druk Gyalpo, the King. The elected fulfill the needs and aspirations of the about what they believe in and who NC candidates are not, and should not be, people through review of public policies, they are. They spend a lot of money affiliated with any party and are elected legislations and scrutiny of state affairs; touring the country and meeting to represent their regions. It is written and render advice to the King, the Prime people. In some countries, with all the explicitly in the National Council act that Minister and the National Assembly on rhetoric and promises flying about, the NC has an independent mandate: matters of national importance.” the impassioned speeches and photo “The National Council shall not be bound In a country that is guided by the vi- opportunities, the real messages can by the voters or interest groups and shall sionary principles of Their Majesties the get lost and the electorate confused. function in a non-partisan manner in Fourth and Fifth Kings, and in a House

Terton art gallery, thimphu Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL

28 The Raven May / June, 2013 that has no party affiliations, how are By the time my friend and I sat the voters to choose their candidates? down on Saturday afternoon, she had I began writing this article about how already looked on the internet and people seek information because a started doing her own research. She well-educated friend of mine admit- had hoped there would be more infor- Those who are ted that she had no idea who she mation on the manifestos. However, was going to vote for days before the despite the lack of detailed histories, elected by the election and assumed that she would the decision for her came down to go in blind. “Have you looked on the local representation. One candidate people have a internet?” I asked. “…um no, I forgot I was from the same area as she is and responsibility could do that!” was her honest reply. I so her mother told her to vote for him. suggested we meet on the weekend to When I asked if there were issues she to make their do the research together. I am a librar- was interested in, she named many ian; I am interested in how people - including infrastructure, education constituents’ do their research, how they evaluate and governance- but at the end of voices and issues information and then how they use the day she was voting for whom her it to make a decision. For National family wanted and who was from her heard. Council members, what were people village. looking for in a candidate? How could I also spoke to Sonam Rinzin, a people tell the difference between college graduate from Mongar, who candidates? Were people only voting was taking a week’s leave to return were choosing their candidates and where for who they knew or who their family home to cast his vote. He had watched they were getting their information. Some told them to? the BBS common forum and had were voting based on personality. The can- I was pleasantly surprised by the made his decision based on what he didate had come by their house and they incredible job done by both the Elec- saw and heard from the candidates. had felt an affinity for them. And others tion Commission of Bhutan (ECB) One candidate in particular impressed were voting for the people they knew. If and Bhutan Broadcasting Service him because of how he spoke and his they did not know the candidate person- (BBS) in providing extensive coverage focus on improving education. In the ally, they would ask someone who did of the NC candidates. The live stream end, part of his decision was based on and ask them if they were voting for that of the candidate debates were of good the fact that the other candidates were candidate. For them, the most important quality and made available to all those not as fluent in Dzongkha. He felt that aspects of the candidate were their history who had internet (and who could all representatives should be fluent in and their integrity. I spoke to one man speak Dzongkha). ECB posted the the national language as it would help who had watched the common forum on manifestos from all the candidates, them to do their job in the National BBS but felt that the debate wasn’t enough and though there was not a great Council. But also, due to their lack of to choose a candidate. According to him, deal of information in the manifestos Dzongkha, the other candidates were anyone can talk, but it is their actions that themselves, there was enough for less able to express themselves and are relevant. He also mentioned that he voters to get a sense of the differences explain their opinions. During the last was unwilling to vote for someone who between candidates. Some candidates election in 2008, he had not done his did not come across as confident during were discussed in the newspapers research and was influenced by his the forum. and there was much speculation as relatives. This time around, Sonam Unfortunately, when I asked peo- whether incumbents would be ree- Rinzin’s brothers asked for his help in ple about their research methods, the lected and whether the voters would deciding who to vote for. Sonam said response I met with most commonly was vote for candidates simply because that although he would go home and that they were not voting. I asked people they were women. In the first NC help them with the voting process, ranging all ages and backgrounds and the elections, four female candidates were who one votes for is a personal deci- reasons given for not exercising their civic elected. The Druk Gyalpo appointed sion; he would explain the manifestos duties were many. Some were not from another two for a total of six women to them and debate the issues but was Thimphu and would have had to travel for out 25 NC members, making up 24% not going tell them who to vote for. days to vote, which would take up consid- erable time and incur personal expense.

Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL of the membership. I began asking others how they

The Raven May / June, 2013 29 Thimphu wore a deserted look on the day of the election

Others simply admitted that they not to vote. cle/0,9171,2123809-2,00.html). were lazy and hadn’t taken the time to However, despite the disappoint- Democracy is new in Bhutan and while fill out the postal ballots or the voter ment at the lack of enthused voters, there has been much information on the registration forms. Many said they following the elections on April 23, procedures and the regulations – how to didn’t like politics and steered away 2013, ECB announced that 45% of the cast your vote, how to register, etc., there from it, and for me, that was the most registered voters did cast a vote. And has been much less on what it means to be disheartening answer! The problem almost everyone I spoke to said that a democracy – the rights you get and the is that life is politics. The politicians they would be voting in the upcoming duties you have. Organizations such as elected by the people are responsible National Assembly elections. Perhaps BCMD (Bhutan Centre for Media and De- for drafting the laws that will affect it’s the political parties, the debate, mocracy) are helping to promote “a culture nearly every aspect of our lives; they or the fact that the Prime Minister is of democracy” and that begins by under- are responsible for the regulations drawn from the National Assembly standing how Bhutan’s political institutions that provide roads, schools and drink- that has spurred the imagination of affect everyday lives. Those who are elected ing water, and for those legislations the electorate. Whatever the reason by the people have a responsibility to make that protect the pillars of GNH. Two I look forward to an exciting cam- their constituents’ voices and issues heard. recent class 12 graduates, who had paign! For all the people who do not It is up to the National Council and the just turned 18 and could have voted understand how politics affects their National Assembly to show the people of in their first election, chose not to lives, the blame is not on them. In the Bhutan that they are represented and that because they find politics “dirty” and US, there are still ongoing debates their participation in the political process do not see how it relates to them. It about the role of government. It is not only important but essential to the was interesting to note that they were prompted a recent article in Time future of Bhutan. bright girls who are engaged in society magazine by Michael Grunwald that and could be forces in the future of demonstrated just how intercon- The writer is a Canadian Librarian living in Bhutan - they are trying to start a nected the lives of everyday citizens Thimphu. magazine and want to start a youth and government really are (http://

advocacy group - and yet they chose www.time.com/time/magazine/arti- Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL

30 The Raven May / June, 2013 Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL rafting tripin thePunakhaValley Experience thewildersideof Bhutan withafun andsafe To addaday raft trip to your itinerary, contact yourlocal agent [email protected] There’s moretoBhutan than youimagine… Phone:+975-2-335672or+975-17654464 TRAVEL

KOLKATA -THE ETERNAL CITY

f all the Indian me- it is also part of India’s cultural at first, but like the Bengalis say tropolises, few are bedrock having produced some of – the city grows on you. And it as misconstrued as India’s greatest writers, thinkers, certainly did. Kolkata. To many, artists and filmmakers. It is difficult to find a descrip- it is synonymous On a recent trip, the city Kolkata is a city of tion that would do justice to a amiable contrasts, with bleakness, associated with welcomed my curiosity. Its grim city built along the banks of the O Simultaneously beggars and slums, congested overcrowded look, incessant gracious and river Hooghly. But, it is a city of traffic, diehard communists, and yellow Ambassador Taxi horns, nasty amiable contrasts. Simultane- drained out rickshaw walas. But and unpleasant odors tested me ously gracious and nasty, cultured

32 The Raven May / June, 2013 of Joy (1985). The book takes you to the pulse of what life is like on KOLKATA -THE ETERNAL CITY the streets of Kolkata. If you haven’t read the book, the complexity of India’s second biggest city might be hard to comprehend, and one simply Even today, the city has conjures up images of human suffering. But to people who live an alluring old world there or know the City well, it is the raw poverty which can lead charm and a frantic, yet to not only a depraved living, but tranquil, pace of life that also a humane one, and this is what makes Kolkata very differ- no other Indian metro ent from other cities in the world. Perhaps this is the reason why can boast of. Kolkata has produced some of the greatest works of India art and is considered the cultural and intellectual capital of India. The the city has an alluring old-world stark, in-your-face poverty, and charm and a frantic, yet tranquil the plight of human condition in pace, of life that no other Indian this city, obviously has something metro can boast of. to do with it. Influences of the Raj can be Most of India’s 19th and 20th found in every nook and cleft century philosophers, freedom of the city. From slow rambling fighters, poets and artists were trams – introduced in 1902, to Kolkatans. To name a few, Guru grand Victorian-era buildings, Ramakrishna (one of his famed Kolkata has managed, over the disciples being Swami Vive- years, to retain its British past. kananda), Nobel Prize laureate The city may have ceased to be Rabindranath Tagore, and the the capital of British India way much acclaimed film director and back in 1912, but it continues to Oscar winner Satyajit Ray. be a center of cultural creativity. Kolkata’s association with Venues all over the city showcase the British Empire began in Bengali art, music, film, thea- By MITRA RAJ 1690, when an agent of the East tre, poetry and dance. Poverty India Company - Job Charnok, certainly remains in-your-face By MITRA RAJ DHITAL chose Calcutta (as it was for- but the elegant Bengali nobles merly known) for a British trade continue to frequent the city’s settlement. Soon, the East India impressive old club houses, ride and uncouth, Kolkata is a daily Company moved in and started horses at the Kolkata Racetrack, celebration of human existence. developing it as a Presidency city and play golf at some of India’s And it is all played out before and over time turned it into a finest courses. your eyes on crowded streets fortified mercantile base. Like the Bengalis, it is a city where every inch of space is put And thus, as a trading hub of many moods. The name itself, to good use. No one, i feel, has of British India in the east, Kol- I was told, is derived from the captured the plight and beauty of kata went on to become the most Bengali word Kalikshetra, mean- Kolkata better than Dominique important city of the British Raj ing ‘ground of the goddess Kali.’ Lapierre in his famed novel City outside of England. Even today, Legend goes that the swirling

The Raven May / June, 2013 33 TRAVEL

wheel of Lord Vishnu had sliced off the corpse of Sati - when Lord Shiva was performing his menac- ing dance (Pralay) with her on his shoulders - in a fit of tremendous rage. The body parts of the Hindu goddess fell at different places which later turned into pilgrim- age centers for devout Hindus. Kalighat, built for Kolkata’s patron deity Kali, is one such sacred spot where a toe of Sati’s is believed to have dropped. For those beguiled by history, Kolkata is a city that is worth every paisa. For starters, visitors can im- merse themselves in the ancient attractions of the Indian Museum. Built in 1874, it is the oldest museum in India and houses, among a host of artifacts, an- tiques, fossils, Mughal paintings, and a 4,000-year-old Egyptian Mummy, supposedly one of the oldest mummies in the world. But if armour, skeletons or mummies are not your thing, and you prefer Flury’s – the classic confection- being outdoors, then head to the ary, or Moulin Rouge, you can Like the Bengalis, Kolkata Botanical gardens situated in always find a range and variety is a city of many moods Shibpur, Howrah. The best known of culinary delights. Remember, landmark of the garden founded especially, not to miss the Kati in 1786 is the great Banyan tree Roll shop along the street. that is reckoned to be the largest The Hogg Market better tree in the world, at more than 330 known today as New Market is meters in circumference. arguably one of Kolkata’s best For those who’re not interest- shopping centers. And it is less In terms of elements, ed in History but prefer shopping than a mile from Park Street. The and sampling the local cuisine, the confectionary Nahum’s inside the the city has it all and city is choc-a-bloc with sprawling market is a landmark by itself, you can get from one malls, all new, and all boasting the but the best cakes come during latest in global brands. But first, the Christmas season and during place to another pretty take a trip around the city to get a New Year. quickly. But, the trick feel of its exclusivity. For connoisseurs of good Start by getting on to the food, the Nizams on Corporation lies in knowing which metro and visiting Park Street, Road, Sher-e-Punjab near Dum- direction you want to where a chain of restaurants and dum Airport, Jimmy’s Kitchen bars are located. Be it Olypub – on AJC Bose Road, Azad Hind go in. the average man’s watering hole, and Thai Tonight on Ballygunge Photo Courtesy: google

34 The Raven May / June, 2013 in Kolkata, for some, could prove difficult to characterize and explain. In terms of elements, the city has it all and you can get from one place to another pretty quickly. But, the trick lies in knowing which direction you want to go in. The name of lanes like Lenin and Shakespeare Sarani might intrigue you too and the sheer sight of the city is intimidating. But, bear in mind, the city is a little bit from and for everybody. If you get used to the bandhs, the heat and the poverty around, Kolkata is quite laid back and vivid. It is truly a city you ‘feel’ more than you see. But if you’re there between May and Septem- ber, be prepared for some serious drenching. As my trip had come to an end, I was sad to leave Kolkata. travel Charmed by Bengali hospitality details and the city’s bond with the life of the mind, I was sure I’d miss

Circular Road and Mainland Kolkata’s cultural history and is By Flight the long conversations with talka- From Paro it tive strangers in overcrowded China on Gurusaday Road are an known as the hub of intellectual is a 45-minute absolute must. debates. If the debates don’t en- flight to bars; feasting on brain rolls on Traveling further north, tice you, I am sure, the makeshift Kolkata. the streets of Park Circus; and you could visit Waterloo Street bookstalls, on either side of the the simple pleasures of lighting a for some custom made shoes, street, definitely will. cigarette the local way – with the followed by a glimpse of the As the sun goes down and By Train slow burning butt of a coconut Trains are avail- Lal Bazaar Police Headquarters you distinctly begin to crave a able daily from rope nailed to the wall of a corner Hashimara, an pan shop. But, I know, I will while moving onto BB Ganguly sense of quiet and peace, visit hour’s drive from Street where you could find the the Outram Ghat. Here, you can Phuentsholing. return again to splurge on the cheapest furniture and handi- spend the evening watching simple pleasures of life. After all, crafts in Kolkata. And since you the sunset over the Hooghly it isn’t called the City of Joy for are already there, don’t miss the River with a traditional chai in an nothing. Accomodation Kolkata Medical College and Col- earthen pot, and admire the new Bhutanese travelers can It is through art and art only that lege Street. Vidyasagar Setu stretching over book a room at College Street is a narrow lane the breadth of the water mass. Or, the Tashi Guest we can shield ourselves from the House, situated between Bowbazar and Mahatma you could walk straight into the next to Forum. sordid perils of actual existence - Gandhi Road, and has been for lawns of the Victoria Memorial Oscar Wilde. a long time a regular hangout and seat yourself besides lovers and a renowned meeting place enjoying each other’s company as Climate Best time to for intellectuals and students. It darkness sets in. travel (October - has played an important part in But remember, getting around April). Photo Courtesy: google

The Raven May / June, 2013 35 feature

Improving the Investment Climate By RANDALL KRANTZ

he reputation of private sector will be a critical catalyst and spiritually sensitive, promotion Bhutan is justifiably for economic diversification, jobs and of ‘Brand Bhutan’ and creation of a immaculate in many growth. Already last year, 2/3 of the new knowledge society. However, having international circles. Its jobs in Bhutan came from the private examined the FDI Policy closely, it stable democracy, low sector, and this ratio will only increase in seems to be more about protecting the corruption, abundant supplies of clean the coming years. Currently, however, the interests of Bhutan than it is about en- Tenergy and high levels of education number of these jobs generated through couraging cash flows into the country make it a target for many foreign foreign investment is minimal, though for the creation of jobs and economic investors. In addition, Bhutan has the trend is increasing. growth. That foreign investors are not unfettered access to one of the largest being tempted is evidenced by the markets in the world, unhindered small number of investments - fewer by the bureaucracy, corruption and than 60 over nearly a decade. The political sloth that plague many of At a time when figures are not very encouraging. our neighbors. The charm of Gross there is growing Bhutan can become an easy place National Happiness is just icing on to do business, with easy access to the cake. concern over youth talented employees, the right tax There is enormous potential in incentives and simple repatriation selling “Brand Bhutan” to India, the unemployment, of investments and dividends. Small world’s second largest market, as creating a match countries like Singapore do not rely well as to upscale markets in Europe on their domestic market for invest- and North America. The invest- between the supply ments, Switzerland has nearly as ments to make this happen have the and demand should many mountains as Bhutan, and Ire- potential to bring with them private land is an island that has used its local sector jobs, social stability and a be at the top of talent and business friendly taxation to more diversified economy, but will the government’s encourage some of the world’s leading require the right set of policies to companies to invest. make them happen. agenda. Where to start On Jobs, Growth and FDI Three areas of focus can help As Bhutan continues its rapid Bhutan to attract more foreign inves- pace of development, the private The 2010 FDI policy published by tors: creating a better enabling envi- sector will play a critical role. Ac- the Ministry of Economic Affairs high- ronment for business, both domestic cording to the International Finance lights priority focus areas and sectors and foreign; matching the talent Corporation (IFC), 90% of jobs in for foreign investment. With its usual requirements of the private sector with emerging economies come from foresight, the Government is encourag- the skills and attitudes of graduates; the private sector. With a rupee ing investment in areas that contribute to and making financial structures and crunch that is not disappearing any the country’s long-term well-being. These regulations that are both simple and3 time soon, and the next Five Year include contributions to green growth, transparent for investors to under- Plan calling for 122,000 new jobs, industries that are environmentally and stand.

foreign direct investment into the socially responsible as well as culturally Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL

36 The Raven May / June, 2013 An Enabling Environment will incorporate the experience of foreign Government-to-Business website The rules and regulations that investors, family businesses as well as state are making it easier to find out the define the environment in which owned enterprise. By looking at the policies, facts on setting up and operating a business operates are one of the institutions, and infrastructure that enable business. Enabling such portals to be most critical factors to the suc- a business, this report will provide apolitical transactional will accelerate and sim- cess or failure of the private sector insight into the enablers and barriers that plify the processes to start and run as a whole. The procedures and are helping and hindering the private sector a business for domestic and foreign processes to acquire land, set up a as a whole. investors alike. business, hire employees, and pay Combined with the ambitions of the taxes will make or break any busi- 11th Five Year Plan, this analysis can help Tempting Talent: ness, especially a foreign one new to map out exactly how the enabling environ- At a time when there is growing the country. Unfortunately, Bhutan ment can be made more friendly to foreign concern over youth unemployment, lags behind its neighbors on many (and domestic) investors, and where the especially in the towns, creating a of these indicators, according to the 122,000 jobs will come from. The experi- match between the supply of talent IFC’s annual Ease of Doing Business ence of long time delays, obscure permit- and demand of jobs should be at the report, in which Bhutan ranks 148 ting processes and redundant permissions top of the government’s agenda, for out of 185 countries. from several ministries and local authorities the benefit of both potential employ- While this ranking is not entirely can become a thing of the past. ees and employers. comprehensive, as many of the num- Several trends in Bhutan point to After speaking with over 100 bers reported are not reflections of changes in the right direction. Already, the business leaders in seven dzong- the actual time and effort required to Government-to-Citizen portal and the newer khags, one of the most concerning perform many of these steps critical to setting up and operating a business, most investors agree that doing business in Bhutan is not easy. One shortcoming of the IFC’s assessment is that it does not take into account the opinions and experiences of foreign investors. To complement studies such as this, I have been going through the list of foreign investments made in Bhutan, about half of them in the hospitality industry, and interviewing senior management to understand their experience. The examples that follow, gathered with interviews with foreign investors and their domestic counterparts, tell a story of complications and cultural barriers. Another assessment of the business landscape is being undertaken this year for the first time, through collaboration between the World Economic Forum and the Bhutan Chamber of Commerce & Industry (BCCI). Looking at the experience of a wider range of business opera- most investors agree that doing business in Bhutan is not easy tions, this World Economic Forum 4

Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL Global Competitiveness Report

The Raven May / June, 2013 37 vocational skills is actually the lowest. offered are not enough to make a meaning- This difference means that almost all ful difference to any of the business leaders technical jobs must be outsourced to with whom I spoke. Investors who spoke expatriate workers while graduates to me were mainly investing in Bhutan be- One of the most with expertise in liberal arts are simply cause they had been charmed by its beauty not attractive to employers. Overcom- or serenity, but none were convinced that critical areas ing this mismatch will require long they would be generating profits any time for foreign term coordination between Ministries soon. of Education, Labour and Economic While there are tax exemptions de- investors is the Affairs, alongside real-time input from signed to promote the construction of ability to make the business community on the skills luxury establishments, many hotel owners and talent they are looking for. complain about the complexity of benefit- money off their The second fix is regulatory, by ting from these. For example, it was pointed investments. making it easier to hire workers, espe- out that furniture destined for hotel lobbies cially foreign ones to fill the gaps that is exempt from taxes, but that which will cannot (yet) be met domestically. I am furnish hotel rooms is not. For the import conscious that I do not want to be an of fixtures in bathrooms, commodes are expatriate worker promoting more ex- tax exempt, but the cisterns are not, and patriates as a solution to employment showerheads are tax-exempt, while the issues facing business leaders - both gaps, however one of the most promi- piping is not. Piecemeal regulation like this foreign and domestic - is access to nent complaints by foreign investors adds complexity and headaches for foreign employable talent. This appears to be is the difficulty of bringing in and investors and local partners alike. particularly tricky in service indus- retaining foreign workers to fill senior One of the most critical areas for for- tries such as hotels, where graduat- and technical roles for which there is eign investors is the ability to make money ing youth show a reluctance to apply a short supply of domestic experience. off their investments. In the event that a themselves. It was also highlighted as While the FDI Policy allows a ratio of company is able to overcome the above a challenge in technical jobs, where “one expatriate permit for every five obstacles and turn a profit, repatriation of employers I spoke with have had a Bhutanese employed in the business”, this money is an additional step requiring hard time hiring Bhutanese with the managers I spoke with complain that computer and IT skills they require for this is not often honored, and that more technical jobs. In addition, the after multiple rejected applications, highly desirable skills of master elec- they often give up and leave critical tricians, plumbers, and builders tend senior positions vacant. On top of to be shunned by both the education this, the difficulty for expatriate work- system and youth alike. ers to move about the country and Two other fiscal The fix for talent can only take complexities of extending contracts challenges not place at two levels. The first fix for beyond three years are another hurdle talent requires taking a long-term view to foreign investors. addressed in the to ensure that the skills of the nation’s FDI Policy are youth match the demand from busi- Fiscal Fixes nesses. This will involve shifting the On top of burdensome regulations access to finance skills being developed in the nation’s and a difficulty to find the right talent, and external education and training systems as financial hurdles add to this problem. well as the culture that dictates what Speaking to hoteliers at a selection commercial jobs are desirable to youth. In addi- of five star hotels, one hears of a very borrowing. tion, while secondary and tertiary complicated and arduous taxation sys- education levels in Bhutan are the tem that is not favorable to investors. In particular, the meager tax holidays

highest in the region, the teaching of Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL

38 The Raven May / June, 2013 further paperwork and processes. cannot be used for investment in capi- While the FDI policy offers investors tal markets, on-lending or purchase of the right to repatriate dividends in real estate. That the State should define the currency of earnings, there is no how a private company uses a loan is Making Bhutan a mention of how this actually works in surprising and certainly not a catalyst practice, in particular for an industrial for a more dynamic private sector. better place for or manufacturing investment. foreign investors Additional hurdles imposed by Enabling Improvement the Royal Monetary Authority since In conclusion, each of these three will also make it the publication of the FDI Policy areas: doing business, talent develop- a better place for make this even more complicated. ment, and fiscal policy, will require For example, in the 2012 Foreign conscientious attention from across local businesses Exchange Regulations, The FDI Policy the Government. None can be over- and all of the does state that for ‘service activities in hauled by a single ministry, but can be the priority list’, the investor is allowed addressed with careful coordination country’s future to purchase up to USD 5 million in across several government ministries, employees and convertible currency per annum for as well as incorporation of structured repatriation of dividends. What does and systematic input from the private employers. this mean for service activities outside sector. Additionally, despite research of the priority list, or for industrial ac- and many deep conversations, I was tivities? Why is there a USD 5 million unable to locate conclusive numbers cap, and is the amount of allowable around the actual amounts for foreign focused solely on protecting the domes- currency conversion not dependent investment or number of jobs cre- tic market will not provide temptation on the amount of profits made? These ated by these investments – it appears to lure in desperately needed foreign questions are certainly not going to be that the exact numbers have been lost funds that will create the jobs, skills, encouraging more and larger invest- somewhere along the way between the and diversity of economic growth that ments to be flowing into the country Ministries of Economic Affairs, Finance is waiting for Bhutan to shift from an any time soon. In one example, it is and Labor, and the Royal Monetary economy based on resource use, to one publicly known that the G4S security Authority. based on efficiency and innovation. company had trouble repatriating prof- One of the conclusions coming out The proven ability of the government to its, as its activities do not fall under of a conference on sustainable econom- overcome its inherent silos (for example the Government’s priority list, despite ic development hosted by Royal Thim- in the GNHC’s Environment Climate being the largest foreign employer in phu College last year was that “Bhutan Change and Poverty Reference Group) Bhutan. is a great place for foreign investors should now be applied to foreign invest- Two other fiscal challenges not – unless you want to make money”. ment and private sector development addressed in the FDI Policy are access The cynical statement starkly highlights more broadly. to finance and external commercial room for improvement on the policies Ultimately, the policies and regula- borrowing. Access to foreign invest- and practicalities of investing in Bhutan tions that allow foreign investment in ment is only allowed if a company is and points to the difference between Bhutan need to clearly show the ben- expanding or is declared to be ‘sick’ the views of the Bhutanese government efits for investors, and make it simple a subjective measure decided by the and the perspective of potential inves- for them to invest, create jobs, build Government. It is not currently possi- tors scrutinizing the country as a place infrastructure and, of course, make ble to sell a piece of a local company to to put their money. profits. a foreign investor to bring them in as Making Bhutan a better place for a partner. Similarly, despite revisions foreign investors will also make it a The writer is a Strategic Advisor for the in December of the external commer- better place for local businesses and Druk Holding & Investments on Private cial borrowing guidelines, borrowed all of the country’s future employees Sector Development. He maintains a blog money is still heavily restricted and and employers. An FDI Policy that is at www.bhutanchronicles.com. Photo Courtesy: UPASNA DAHAL

The Raven May / June, 2013 39 MITRA RAJ DHITAL is the editor of The Raven. He can be contacted at [email protected] WILL IT BOIL DOWN TO A CAR?

t is being speculated on by many that DPT might possibly score another sweeping victory this election in July. But, gauging public opinion largely in Thimphu, the cranes may not get to return and rule the roost again. I A historic win in 2008 presented the DPT with a historic opportunity. Some opportunities they seized, some they wasted, the Toyota Prado being one such opportunity they did seize. Not lit- erally, of course. But, who would have imagined that a Japanese vehicle of all the things in the wide world would rev up a controversy in Bhutan? When news broke that the former Prime Minister, Cabinet Ministers, Speaker of the National Assembly, Chairman of the National Council and the Opposition Leader would be allowed to keep their government duty Toyota Prado Land Cruisers, public reaction ranged from sheer disbelief to outrage. At a time when the country has been seeing officials like members of the parliament constantly put their benefits before those of the public, and when people are looking for leadership in setting standards in public service, this came as yet another disappointment. This outrage was further compounded when it was learned that the ruling government had possibly asked to keep the vehicles as kidu from His Majesty the King, who graciously granted the request. While most were quick to point out that this was a display of sheer greed by the DPT officials, others stood divided on whether the party shouldn’t be judged by their last action. If one group pointed to the DPT’s ability to turn things around for themselves, the other said the party had time and again been tested and often been found wanting. There are moments when even the most trenchant of the DPT’s critics have to believe that there is more to the party than its love of entitlements. And these are the moments when, like a profes- sional athlete, the party has to outmaneuver its opponent and critics at the last minute and dash to victory at the finish line. Instead, it was the Opposition Leader (OL) who showed enough strategic flair. In the early days of his political career, former OL Tshering Tobgay had a tendency to go on a bit, seemingly opposing for the sake of opposing. While there were times when his arguments against the government were weak, he did question many pertinent issues that got the public thinking and allowing them a different point of view. His advantage is that he is from a younger generation than most DPT ministers, is politically savvy and knows when to cash in. While his returning of the Prado is being seen as an extremely political move, he did what was right and that seems to sit well with the generation that is becoming extremely restless at the blatant misuse of office by some. On the day the cabinet was dissolved, he returned his blue Prado to the government. Although he denied any political motivation despite having invited the press to cover the event, he seemed determined to have the last word as the country’s first opposition. And he did. His argument was simple. He said it was morally wrong. Simply7 because His Majesty was

40 The Raven May / June, 2013 requested by no other than the former Prime Minister himself, and that it was tantamount to disrespecting those who struggled to meet daily sustenance. In response, the DPT sent out a press release expressing their ‘deep sadness’ that Soelra from His Maj- esty the King was being made an issue before the elections. And that ‘some people’, obviously referring to Tshering Tobgay and his supporters, were stooping to the lowest common denominator to sow discord and bring about discontentment. Without statistical research that can define or question a custom, ideas become clichés and arguments become sound bites. And soon, the sound bite becomes an infectious form of communication among the masses, who are then led by this enforced wisdom. What if one was to ask about the DPT’S motive behind such a statement? Somehow, their justification fell flat. It is like the saying, if the only tool in your kit is a hammer, every issue will appear to be a nail. In the context of the DPT, it seems, their only measure of defense lies in spinning the issue and nailing it down with a hammering approach. At times, even labeling shocking aberrations as customs while, at other times, coming across as inflexible, pompous and very pleased with themselves. Sadly, what DPT failed to realize through their actions and short-sightedness was that there were many things that worked against them in asking for the vehicles. The country, of late, has not been doing well economically. The national debt is more than Nu 83 billion (which translates to 82% of GDP) and projected to grow exponentially in the next few years. Short term Indian rupee borrowings has already crossed Rs 21 billion, creating an Indian rupee crisis of sorts, the brunt of which must be borne by the common man. In such a scenario, if Tshering Tobgay doesn’t accept the vehicle saying it would contribute to the The Prado has problem further because the next government will have to import new vehicles for the new batch of now become elected leaders, wasn’t it (returning the vehicle) the a national right thing to do? It is estimated that over Nu 50 million will have discussion to be spent to procure the 14 duty vehicles gifted, but no one quite that is only if the same make vehicles are purchased. Add to that sales and green tax and the figure will knows how to reach upward of Nu 80 million. Of course, here one hang up on. could argue that vehicles imported for ministers are exempt of tax. Yet Nu 50 million is a big amount for a country that relies on aid. DPT, during its tenure, imposed a ban on import of all types of vehicles, discontinued vehicle quotas for civil servants, and stopped banks from giving loans for vehicle purchases. The result was that ordinary folks and car businesses suffered. Against such a backdrop, isn’t it morally wrong, like Tshering Tobgay pointed out, to take official vehicles and compel the next government to import new ones with taxpayer money? Or is pointing out a folly, sowing discord? Yes, it is understandable if you reason that the Prados were well deserved as the elected members had served the country for the past five years. It is also understandable if you reason that Members of Parliament are given Nu 700,000 and a duty free quota to purchase a vehicle at the beginning of their terms, while the Prime Minister, Cabinet Ministers, Speaker, NC Chairman, and the Opposition Leader are not. But, whatever your reasoning, or mine, the Prado has now become a national discussion no one quite knows how to hang up on. The issue seems to have spawned a joke factory that churns out innovative ways to provide answers. Like, yes, if I become a minister, and I serve the country for five years, I might probably ask to keep my bungalow in the ministers’ enclave. But it is, unfortunately, no joking matter. This question was in fact asked to the new political party’s on a social media forum, but much to the dis- may of the questioner, there was no answer. Sadly, it seems that Bhutanese who are seeking office can’t seem to take a stand on what is wrong or right on such a simply issue when most voters seem to know the answer. The irony of it all struck me when a chilip friend of mine remarked: “Everybody in Bhutan wants to ride a big, sturdy SUV, but nobody wants to drive it on a rough, dirty road.”

The Raven May / June, 2013 41 FEATURE

The Dawn of a New Orange King

By JURMI CHHOWING (reporting from Amsterdam)

ometimes there is no the Royal Family. It was visible citizens were already partying the such thing as a befitting and audible in the air, the streets night before even as last minute introduction. Words and canals of Amsterdam and arrangements and security were fail to convey what the the city’s beautifully decorated being looked into; orange was the heart feels, the eyes see squares. color- including garbage cans, the Sand the ears hear. So one must The bright colors of the House trash in it, and every imaginable submit to one’s inadequacy and of Orange where the Dutch Royal his majesty the paraphernalia that the world Family hail from was what draped king with the has been privy to whenever the write on. This in short was what dutch royal Dutch Football team makes it to April 30 in The Kingdom of The the city of Amsterdam and all its couple during Netherlands felt like-ecstasy, mazes, passages, alleys, houses their visit to the European or the World Cups festivity, hope, melancholy, and buildings. bhutan were in ample display around the togetherness, unity and above The city’s party-loving, opin- picturesque city of canals- recent- all, the Dutch people’s love for ioned and somewhat eccentric ly honored as a UNESCO World

42 The Raven May / June, 2013 Photo Courtesy: Google that particulardaybeingher tion inhonoroftheirmonarchs, morning ofthebiggestcelebra- Members ofParliament onthe the Royal Family, Senate, and Alexander inthepresenceof the investitureofhersonWillem- Queen signedtheabdicationand no handingoverofacrown.The UnlikeBhutan, therewas day’s crowningchange. emotions leadinguptothenext then thatfurtheraddedtothe night beforethecoronation.But bid anemotionalfarewellthe reigned overthethreedecades, and respectedforthewayshehas beloved queen,highlyrevered leading uptotheabdication.The had threesuccessivequeens Alexander. TheNetherlands has of theCrown PrinceWillem- Queen Beatrixabdicatedinfavor day. After thirtythreeyears, Itwasoneheckofan‘Orange’ Heritage site. Queen signedthe the investiture of her son Willem-

of acrown. The abdication and

Unlike Bhutan, handing over there was no Alexander Dam andother publicavenuesall giant screensinstalledatThe historic transitiontakeplaceon at theDamSquare,watching an number ofvisitorsandthepress the country, togetherwithalarge people flockedinfromallover dam. Hundreds ofthousands the DamincenterofAmster- were heldinthehistoricPalace at and theswearinginceremonies Thesigning,oathsofloyalty princess. mother. Shenowtakes thetitleof tion ofhermotherandgrand- the role,followingintradi- 75, whoretiredafter 33yearsin you yournewKing,”saidBeatrix, happy andthankfultopresent I abdicatedfromthethrone.am monarch. ““Some momentsago for anewgenerationunder decision wasmadetomakeway died in2002.Sheaddedthatthe her husband,PrinceClaus.He she hadevermade,marrying people” andthebestdecision the “loveandsupportofher tional asthequeendescribed Theformalitieswereemo- Maxima isnowtheQueen. His Argentinewife,Princess Dutch people. symbolic significance forthe but stillinvestedwithenormous largely strippedofpoliticalpower on Tuesday, ascendingathrone of TheNetherlands since1890 Alexander becamethefirst king birthday. Thatwasit.Willem- ing toApril 27th,thenewking’s familiar dateofApril 30thchang- becomes theKing’sDaywith From hereontheQueen’s Day mark theirmonarchs’birthdays. last Queen’s Day, celebratedto der. Willem- Crown Prince f abdicated in Queen Beatrix avorof the A lexan- would givethe country muchofan Willem-Alexander’s investiture Jorge Bosman,saidhedoubted but lax.AnAmsterdamresident, But Dutchpeopleareanything high. Hopes forthenewmonarchare the publicinterest.” maintain ourdemocracyandserve the peopleandtheirgovernment bond ofmutualtrustbetween “As king,Icanstrengthen the Parliament. combined housesoftheDutch old New Church,heldbeforethe emony inAmsterdam’s 600-year- nationally televisedinvestiturecer- the freshlymintedkingsaidata unites us,theDutchpeople,” connections andexemplifywhat “I wanttoestablishties,make the north-eastofcountry. just arrivedinAmsterdamfrom ily,” saidSusanne Kuiken, whohad looking personwithalovelyfam- forward toaking.He isanice had onlyqueenssoIamlooking Kok, anAmsterdammer. “We have thirty threeyears,”saidTom De set soconsistentlyoverthelast live uptothestandardshehas example. Ihopeournewkingwill Beatrix hasbeenanoutstanding were ofajoyousreflection.“Queen Opinions fromyoungandoldalike princesses andotherdignitaries. attended bycrownprincesand Alexander saidathisinauguration, immediate environment,”Willem- tain abouttheirincomeor their joborinhealth,uncer- able oruncertain.Vulnerable in many inthekingdomfeelvulner- “Itakeoffice inaperiodwhen the country. across thecanalcityandrestof The Raven

May /June, 2013 43 FEATURE

employment boost. family in that most typical of Dutch day as almost everyone seems to “Well, at least he is employed,” ways by donning outrageous cos- walk around either with orange he said. “I think he is just like his tumes with Orange the dominant crowns, hats, cowboy-hats and mum, he is honest, casual and color exhibits what is also very seri- the like. wants to do a lot for his people ously felt deep in their hearts. It’s a The bright To conclude, it was a coronation I and out of the country,” said time of extreme economic reces- colors of the without any untoward incident. Donny Julian, attired in orange sion where more Dutch people are House of And a celebration of a carnival dungarees and walking hurriedly out of work, jobless, unemployed Orange where nature that only the Dutch can towards the Dam. and on welfare than ever in recent the Dutch demonstrate in that most unique The general feeling as I memory. But on April 30th, as Royal Family of ways which sets apart this little spoke to different people was popular slogans screamed from hail from was kingdom in Europe’s southern one of hope, change and renewal everywhere, it was the day “we cel- what draped flatlands. in their new king and a feeling ebrate the crowning of a new King; the city of If you go by the color, the future of reminiscence as the subject god bless the new King.” Not to be Amsterdam seems bright; the future seems would invariably shift over to his outdone, local entrepreneurs sell- orange. mother, Queen Beatrix. The one ing orange paraphernalia, such as As I end this, the setting constant and consistent opinion the ubiquitous orange crowns had Amsterdam sun has more than a was the natural beauty of his this tantalizing tag: “buy a crow hint and a hue of that color- it’s wife, Queen Maxima and her and become a king for a day.” completely orange. easy going and attractive nature. The day was indeed a king’s When they met, she was Maxima Zorreguieta, an economist. “Al- though she comes from Argen- tina, she has integrated well into Dutch culture. She has mastered the language, is extremely social, carries herself beautifully and does a lot of philanthropy and it feels good to know we’ll have such a beautiful and likeable queen representing the Dutch,” said Sasha, a young apprentice helping foreign press personnel with logistics. Queen Maxima has been on the front pages of the media back in her native land. An Argentine paper had this telling headline: “We now have the Pope, Messi and Queen Maxima.” Having had some Dutch connection in the form of an eleven year-old boy whose mother is Dutch, it was a moment that got to me. That is what mass-joy is capable of. The fact that they show their love for their royal

44 The Raven May / June, 2013 The Butch (Bhutanese-Dutch) Connection

Queen of Bhutan: The Tulip The newest Dutch tulip to be named ‘Queen of Bhutan’: a tulip with deep red petals edged with golden yellow. The tulip symbolizes the friendship and longstanding relation between the Netherlands and Bhutan, and reflects besides the national colors of Bhutan, Her Majesty’s personality: “warm and kind in heart and mind”.

The tulip was revealed at the Florida World Stage Theatre in the presence of the Prime Minister of Bhutan, Ly- onpo Dago Tshering, the Ambassador of Bhutan to the EU in Brussels, His Excellency Sonam Tshong, the Florida 2012 General Director, Mr. Paul Beck and many other distinguished guests, and friends of Bhutan.

Mrs. Erica Terpstra explained that the tulip selected by Her Majesty the Queen of Bhutan, Ashi Jetsun Pema Wangchuck, also reflects her character as expressed by his Majesty the King of Bhutan: ‘warm and kind in heart and mind’. The Queen of Bhutan tulip will soon be launched in Bhutan and will be available at the Gardeners’ shop of Mrs. Tshering Yanki at the Centenary Market in Thimphu. Bhutan + Partners ‘Keeping in touch with Bhutan seemed natural’ is the slogan behind this organization.

Bhutan+partners was founded in 2002 by Henk de Jong, after his term as SNV country director in Bhutan. Henk experienced his years working and living in Bhutan as inspiring and valuable. The respectful and open attitude of his colleagues and partners at work and the natural approach to daily life encouraged him to remain in touch with Bhutan and its people.

It has connected many people and organizations to partners in Bhutan and vice versa since 2002. Bhutan+partners facilitate and generate new and unusual programs driven by creative people searching for innovative and lasting connections. Founded in 2002, and based in the Netherlands, Bhutan+partners inspire people and organizations from Bhutan and Europe to connect in the fields of business, culture and sports. The programs are inspired by the principles of Gross National Happiness.

Some of the key areas in which Bhutan+Partners have been playing a major role are business, the film industry, culture, and sports where it coordinated the Sport Coalitions in Action Program in Bhutan for the Dutch ministry of Public Health, Welfare and Sports from 2009 to mid 2012. 86 Centimeters Bhutan+Partners produced the documentary 86 Centimeters about the threats of a glacial lake outburst flooding in Bhutan. 86 Centimeters is a co-production with TGMI Media – Bhutan, and Enlightenment Films. The well known documentary chronicling the 2002 World Cup, The Other Final between Bhutan and Montserrat was the forbearer. Crown Prince Willem-Alexander and Princess Maxima’s visit to Bhutan At the invitation of His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, the Royal Couple made an official visit to the Kingdom Bhutan on October 10, 2007. The visit further cemented the warm and friendly relationship between the two countries.

They visited the National Museum in Paro, an educational institute showcasing the history and culture of Bhutan and Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Bhutan.

On the second day, the couple were officially welcomed at Tashichhodzong, where the Royal Couple were granted and audience and received by the His Majesty the King.

They also visited the National Institute of Traditional Medicine and the Bhutan Archery Foundation which received the 2004 Prince Claus Award for the role they played in preserving the traditional sport and making it accessible to women.

The couple also spoke about ‘Gross National Happiness’, developed by Bhutan as a ‘yardstick’ for sustainable socio-economic growth, good governance and the preservation and promotion of cultural values. The visit was concluded with a cultural evening.

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46 The Raven May / June, 2013 what ‘S your quirk?

Chef Harka Man Subba, popularly known as Rigden

Age. I’m 23. Where are you from? I was born and bred in Tsirang but I live and work in Thimphu. How would you define life? Life is all about finding the right balance while having fun. What are you eating now? As I’m a chef, I love experimenting with food, and I’ve recently discovered the secret to making excellent chicken Quesadillas. What do you hope to achieve? I hope to become the best chef in Bhutan. Entertainment to you? Dancing and having fun with freinds. How do you define love? Love is free yet it binds us. Your interests? Making new friends. Where did you train to be a Chef? I trained in Thailand. One thing you’d like to change about yourself? I’d like to cut down on my smoking. Your favorite celebrity? Park Ji-Sung (South Korean Footballer). Like? Going on dates. Dislike? I hate ignorance in people and people with smug attitutes. Quirks? I check the gas ten times before locking the kitchen door.

The Raven May / June, 2013 47 story

know your FOOD NAKEY (Fiddlehead Ferns)

Minerals nutritional information Calcium 32 mg Nutritional value per (100g) Copper 0.320 mg Energy 34 kcal Macronutrients Carbohydrates 5.54 g Fiddlehead ferns are made up mostly of water, but they also Protein 4.55 g provide protein and carbohydrates. A 100-gram serving of Total Fat 0.40 g raw fiddlehead ferns has 4.55 grams of protein, 0.4 grams of fat and 5.54 grams of carbohydrates. Cholesterol 0 mg Vitamins Vitamins Niacin 4.980 mg Nakeys are very high in vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin Riboflavin 0.210 mg essential for healthy vision, immune system function and Thiamin 0.020 mg regulation of gene expression. It is also an excellent source of niacin and vitamin C and a good source of riboflavin. Vitamin A 3617 IU Vitamin C 26.6 mg Minerals Electrolytes Good source of phosphorus, a mineral that is an important Sodium 1 mg structural component of cell membranes and bone. Potassium 370 mg Fiddlehead ferns also provide iron. Photo Courtesy: Google

48 The Raven May / June, 2013 lytes, especially potassium, iron, manganese and copper. Potassi- um is a heart friendly electrolyte, which helps reduces blood pres- sure and heart rate by countering sodium effects. Further, they contain small to moderate levels of some of the valuable B-complex group of vitamins such as niacin, riboflavin, and thiamin. Bhutan is very lucky that this vitamin rich content vegetable is widely available and reasonably priced. But like fungi, it should be known that only some fens are edible and some (like the bracken fern) can be carcinogenic. While mongst the many Canada, NorCliffFarms forages, Because of its choosing fiddleheads, look for nutritious and edibles that the wild produces, packs and ships fid- deep or bright green, firm, tightly has bountifully given dleheads all over North America. fleshy contents, fiddlehead coiled ferns. The scales are bitter to the Bhutanese, one They have been doing this since ferns have and need to be removed before A the 70’s. is the fiddlehead fern, a foraged now become being cooked. delicacy. Fresh fronds are very high a delicacy the Fiddlehead ferns should be Locally known as Nakey, in antioxidant vitamin-A, and world over. cooked fresh, otherwise stored Fiddleheads are available almost carotenes. Vitamin A is a power- in wrapped plastic and place in everywhere in Bhutan where it is ful natural anti-oxidant and is a refrigerator set at high relative wet and warm, and so in spring required by the body for main- humidity where they stay fresh it is found abundantly along riv- taining the integrity of skin and for 2-3 days. Another alternative erbanks and streams. The fronds mucus membranes. It is also an is to prepare and blanch the fid- erupt along the length of rhizome essential vitamin for vision. dlehead for about 2 minutes in spreads of big fern plants. Their Research studies suggest that boiling water. harvesting season is very short natural foods rich in vitamin A Before cooking remove any and should be done before the help the body protects against brown scales, trim the stem up to fronds unfurl. The ferns are lung and oral cavity cancers. Agri- the base, and wash in cold water unique in their appearance, taste, culture Canada Research states thoroughly. Then boil in salted and nutrition profile. that it has twice the anti-oxidants water for 1-2 minutes. Drain and Their high-quality plant-nu- of blueberries. It is good for discard the water. Most common trition profile consists of health vegetarians because it is rich in recipe in Bhutan is mixing with benefits because of the antioxi- heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. cheese and chilies usually called dants, vitamins, and omega-3 and Their unique sweet taste Nakey Datshi. omega-6 essential fatty acids it comes from their richness in vi- Aside from boiling and contains. tamin C. Together with flavonoid steaming, fiddlehead can be sau- Because of its nutritious and compound like carotenes, it helps téed in butter or olive oil and is fleshy contents, fiddlehead ferns scavenge harmful free radi- very good with a little garlic and have now become a delicacy the cals, and offer protection from parsley. world over. Wholefoods, a U.S. cancers, inflammation, and viral food chain, supplies farmed cough and cold. fiddlehead ferns charging about Fern shoots are a very good By TSHERING DORJI

Photo Courtesy: Google $10 to $15 a pound. In Ontario source of minerals and electro-

The Raven May / June, 2013 49 The high fiber content in red rice is said to help regulate weight

REVIEW restaurant

Kados

ados for lunch, is something I’ve heard many nine to fivers say for years now. On enquiring, Kados was described to me as a little canteen tucked away in a little cor- Kner just off the Chang Lam - a jugular vein of a street running through the heart of Thimphu. It opened almost 15 years ago as a little canteen cater- ing to Thimphu’s office lunch crowd and it hasn’t looked back since. I always wondered where exactly it was and if the food was even that great for it to be so popular. I knew it was cheap and quick, canteen food after all, something that young office-goers ***** desire if they are to eat out regularly. But when I eventually made that purposeful Where trip to Kados one day with my family, I realized Chang Lam - next to the UNDP roundabout why that name was uttered by every office goer. special However, it wasn’t easy finding “Kados” because Traditional Bhutanese Cuisine it is no longer off the main street nor is it known TIMING as Kados, and it certainly wasn’t a canteen. Kados 8:30 am – 10:00 pm has undergone a major facelift. CONTACT Much to my pleasant surprise I found that 17673727 it is special for more than just quick service and low prices. It was famous for its traditional, heavy, rich, delicious, homemade food. And I say

50 The Raven May / June, 2013 homemade because Kados, now – meat optional - with cheese) are The menu is simple known as ‘Yangkhil Restaurant’, stable items because of the de- is a family run business where mand. If you, like me, prefer your and changes slightly the food is lovingly cooked by the Sikam spicy, well done and crispy seasonally. The mother (Kado’s wife) and served - it’s probably the best you’ll ever by their children. Ap Kado him- have, and if you like your Tshoem to food is typically self is the manager, cashier and have just the right amount of soup, Bhutanese and the in charge of taking orders. cheese and oil, you won’t be disap- The menu is simple and pointed with that either. menu of the day is changes slightly seasonally. The Ap Kado tells us some of his written on a white food is typically Bhutanese and customers come mainly for their the menu of the day is written special Ezzay (a combination of board on display. on a white board on display. The mainly dried red chilies, tomatoes, most popular dishes such as the onions, coriander, oil and salt to Sikam (Chill Dried Pork with taste), a Bhutanese take on a salad/ Radish and Red Chilies), Shakam salsa if you will, which is an ac- (Dried Beef with seasonal Veg- companiment to almost everything etables), Pork Ribs and Datshi in Bhutanese cuisine. The staple Tshoem (dried or fresh veggies Red and White rice are Nu 50 for each helping, but most people can barely get through the first because it comes in a heap! All other veg- gie dishes are Nu. 50 and meat items all Nu. 90 each. So for about Nu.300 to 400 (less than under USD $5) you can have a grand traditional Bhutanese meal. Kado’s has been in business for over a decade, I am told and moved location three times, but it has not veered away from Chang Lam street. The restaurant has dedicated customers who have followed Kado wherever he goes over the years. That alone tells you that this once little canteen has done well for itself, building a steady clientele of Bhutanese, who love Bhutanese food.

By KESANG P. DORJI

The Raven May / June, 2013 51 REVIEW movie Review Centering around five different families,Zhideyi Tsawa explores a wide rangemovie of legal issues confronted by ordinary citizens in their daily lives. The series, broadcast in BBS, also highlights the importance of cultural beliefs and values in the Bhutanese legal system et another commercially successful movie by award winning director Tshering Wangyel, ‘Say You Love Me’ has been screening for more than a month in theaters and is still running - creating a record of Ysorts in the Bhutanese movie industry. The plot of the movie fluctuates from the modern era to olden times and then back again. The movie is just right for the Bhutanese audience, in that it contains all the right ingredients a moviegoer here would want in a feature film - romance, suspense, humor, action, and some good dance numbers mingled with peppy songs.

say You love The movie is just right for the Bhutanese Me audience, in that ***** it contains all the right ingredientsThe cast a and crew DIRECTOR Palden Dorji moviegoer here would CdirecAST TOr Tshering Wangyel want in a feature film. Lhaki Dolma, Lhakpa Dendup, Dechen Dorji, Khandu casT Tandin Sonam, Tandin Bidha, Phurba Thinley 52 The Raven May / June, 2013 syNOpsis Say You Love Me is a romantic drama with multiple themes conveying varied messages. The story revolves around the life of a young man and his love for a beautiful lady.

54 The Raven january, 2013 hidheyi Tsawa, a new le- providing information of the judi- Shot with a budget of Nu 1.3 gal series, comprising of cial system that exists in Bhutan. million, Zhidheyi Tsawa is a must 25 episodes, was concep- Produced by the Bhutan Na- watch not only to get a better tualized by the president tional Legal Institute (BNLI) with understanding of the law but also Zof the Bhutan Legal Institute, Her financial assistance from UNDP because it conveys powerful so- Royal Highness Princess Sonam and UNICEF, the series boasts cial messages regarding violence, Stills from the an impressive cast of over 150 unemployment and substance Dechan Wangchuck, to foster bet- legal series ter understanding and awareness seasoned artists of the Bhutanese abuse that plague the Bhutanese of the Bhutanese legal system film fraternity. youth and in turn Bhutanese among the general public. The plot revolves around five society. Apart from depicting real families that are confronted with Zhidheyi Tsawa entertains, in- issues faced by Bhutanese society legal issues both civil and crimi- forms and educates the public on and by the people as they come nal in nature. And, as the law the rule of law while also serving in contact or in conflict with the takes its course, the families land as an invaluable legal resource. laws of the Kingdom, the series themselves in situations they had also delves into the cultural val- failed to anticipate earlier for lack By TSHERING DORJI ues and beliefs of people whilst of knowledge of the law.

The Raven May / June, 2013 53 REVIEW book

ESCAPADES Awakenings

he Bhutanese media has, over the years, been covering the many social issues that plague Bhutanese society. It has been instrumental in getting Bhutanese society to think about Tsome of the things that we have considered normal and traditional, even when we know that they result in numerous problems lasting generations. But, newspapers and mainstream media can only do so much. It doesn’t necessarily have the impact that a novel can. Of late we have many Bhutanese novels, but none tackles head on the issue of Night Hunting and abuse of rural women by local officials the way this new book does. It is therefore refreshing to see that for the first ***** time, we have a writer, that too a Bhutanese man who presents in great detail how these abuses occur and price the generational impact it has on women and children Nu. 600 in Bhutan. In some respects the book is a shocker Available at because it really moves beyond the clichéd descriptions DSB Book Store, Thimphu and traditional tales of the beautiful rural life in Bhu- tan, lifting the veil of misty romanticism and delves

54 The Raven May / June, 2013 instead into the heart of an ugly dark A strong theme in the story is Of late we have truth that many women and children the indomitable spirit of survival and in the villages have had to live with. inner strength, of rural Bhutanese many Bhutanese For a first time author, Doji women who tolerated these crimes novels, but none Dhratyul, who has worked in the pub- because there was no way of seeking lic sector, has done a pretty good job of justice from people who are powerful tackles head developing strong characters span- and influential. As the main charac- on the issue of ning three generations. At the heart ter struggles to overcome the bitter of the novel is Chechay who conceives conditions that make them suscep- Night Hunting a child out of wedlock after being tible to exploitation, she also learns and abuse of abused by an official from Thimphu. to use it to her advantage. The tale of It depicts in great detail the character’s how Thruebaab, a simple fatherless rural women by life and how she tries to cope with village girl, overcomes her humble local officials such a misfortune while officials who beginnings to reach the highest rung are guilty of such terrible crimes go of political power and corporate suc- the way this new on with their lives without being made cess is indeed mesmerizing, as is book does. accountable for what amounts to rape the ultimate sacrifice of her daugh- under today’s laws. ter Choedron who leaves behind all The story comes alive though the trappings of material success to the simple but hard-hitting details of embrace spiritualism guided by her Chechey’s life and the villagers of Ma- mentor Chencho. mung, who are caught in the mesh of For a first time author Doji to get away with rape and being ac- deceit, exploitation and back-breaking Dhratyul has delivered one of the first countable for their offspring simply labour as porters to arrogant, self- Bhutanese novels that hits home. It is because these women and girls are righteous, over-indulged, and abusive a story that should really get many of- dependent on these officials for devel- officials from Thimphu who come to ficials, who have indulged in practices opment needs in their villages. They the villages “supposedly” to help them like night-hunting by seeking out also fail to report these cases because out. The novel is introspective, ably innocent village girls, thinking about they do not know how or where to aided by the descriptions of Bhutanese the grave sins they have committed. begin. life, culture, traditions and religion. Many have gotten away and continue By TSHERING DORJI

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The Raven May / June, 2013 55 tÊtE Á tÊtE

]

Dasho Dr. Sonam Kinga, the Chairperson of the National Council, talks to The Raven on challenges pertaining to the house of review.

Q. Congratulations on your win! employment policies so that the lower this year compared to the How do you feel being elected to the issue of unemployment particularly first Council election in 2008. Has National Council for a second term? youth unemployment can be better the low turnout got to do with the addressed by the government. As in general perception that people give A. Winning the trust of voters for the last five years, I commit myself less importance to the National the second time from the country’s to address the so-called small issues Council as opposed to the National largest constituency is a big honour which may not have much to do with Assembly? and even bigger a responsibility. I my legislative and review mandate think we are looking forward to an but which may have direct and more A. It is possible that the perception exciting five-year in the course of meaningful impact on the everyday of National Council as less deepening our young democracy. lives of our people. important an institution may be a As a member and as Chairperson of cause for low voter turnout. But it the National Council, I feel that my Q.Most voters, even after five years of is not the only reason. First, I chose commitments should be to make democracy, are still unclear about the to contest for National Council this institution very relevant to the role of the National Council. What, when the prevailing view is that everyday needs and aspirations of our according to you, is the role of the competent people should contest for people. NC? National Assembly seats. I do this

Q.Can you talk our readers through A. I do not think there is a need to some of the issues that you’d like to pretend that we do not know what table this time around in parliament? the mandate of National Council is. The people generally understand its In Trashigang, A. My election commitments are to law-making, review and check and some people with uphold and protect the Constitution balance functions. We have used political affiliation so that those in power do not seek the last five years to continually and to amend it to remain in power or repeatedly inform people about the attempted benefit a few people. I intend to call roles and responsibilities of NC. I to influence for an exhaustive review of agriculture think the lack of clarity stems from elections. But the policy so that we move beyond the fact that these functions have been people are far supporting subsistence farming made to perceive like the work of that and begin to think of agriculture of an opposition. It is important to more informed not just as the realm of illiterate reflect on how and who projected this and experienced peasants but as a vibrant sector of image of NC as that of an opposition this time owing to a modern Bhutanese economy. I and created ‘confusion’. voter education. also intend to call for a review of Q. The voter turnout was much

56 The Raven May / June, 2013 to emphasize the fact that the National were re-elected this time. Why, in Council is no less in importance and your opinion, did the others fare badly relevance. In fact, more mature and at the polls, despite the legislative experienced people should contest for experience they could have brought to Certainly the National Council elections. Second, the Council? presence of low voter turnout is largely an urban phenomenon. People in villages do A. The reasons for electoral outcomes women members come and vote. In fact, rural turnout concerning former members in Parliament would be comparatively much higher. would differ across constituencies. brings along its Third, costs associated with urban folks They range from anti-incumbency own dynamics of to go to villages and vote is quite high. factor to assessment of candidates’ It is not just about going home to vote performances, candidates’ touch gender perspective but about visiting family members with their constituencies, availability on issues and other and relatives. That has lots of social of more choices, demographic considerations. and familial obligations. Fourth, many strength of constituencies from which However, we Tashigangpas thought that I would candidates were nominated and many anyway win since there were no other others. cannot question the contestants. I think this is true of single electorate’s choice candidate constituency like Dagana as Q. There are rumors that political but respect it. well. Fifth, NC candidates do not have parties influenced the National networks like party machineries to Council elections in some of the mobilize and rally voters to vote. constituencies, including your own. How true are these rumors true? Q. Even with more women voters, not a single woman candidate was elected. A. Although I think rumours are A.The re-election of six old members What could have led to such a trend rumours, they do not happen just and His Majesty’s gracious and and how will this impact the National like that. There would be basis for well-considered re-appointment of Council? rumours to take a life of their own. the five eminent members strike a However, I am not in a position to fine balance with the educational A. Certainly the presence of women comment about this issue in other background and work experience of members in Parliament brings constituencies. In Trashigang, some fourteen new members. I think the along its own dynamics of gender people with political affiliation continuity of the National Council in perspective on issues and other attempted to influence elections. But terms of institutional experience and considerations. This is good and the people are far more informed memory of eleven former members desirable. However, we cannot question and experienced this time owing to and injection of fresh perspectives, the electorate’s choice but respect voter education conducted by election knowledge and energy by the new it. His Majesty’s gracious and well- officials as well as my own efforts members make this National Council considered reappointment of five during campaign period. The people an exciting and strong team. I feel eminent members consisting of two largely did not give in to attempts of very confident about the members. women is a great contribution and influence of such people and ensured support to the composition of National that the elections were successful by Q. Trashigang is the biggest Council. I am confident that they and choosing to vote independently. Dzongkhag in the country, with a the men members will be sensitive huge proportion of highly qualified to the presence of fewer women and Q. A lot of young candidates have individuals. Yet, no one stood to represent women’s concerns well. been elected to the National Council contest the NC election with you. Did this year. Are you worried that most your receiving the red scarf last year Q. Only six former Council members members, in the house of review, are dissuade potential candidates? inexperienced? And, how will it bode for the Nation? A. Tashigang indeed has a pool

The Raven May / June, 2013 57 INTERVIEW Bhutan Kuen-Nyam Party’s Tshewang Tashi LEARNING TO LOVE FIVE YEARS ON: LIVING WITH THE WORK A REVIEW OF THE CONSEQUENCES BHUTAN YUDA TOURS & TREKS p.26 RULING PARTY p.10 OF TEENAGE PREGNANCY p.58 “Your gateway to Bhutan for a unique experience with your loved ones” Your Monthly Guardian NU 100 JANUARY 2013 ISSUE 3 VOLUME 1 www.ravenmag.com

Dasho sonam kinga interacting with students of kangpar of highly qualified people serving employees, private employees are while postal ballot opportunities in different agencies. There were left with no choice but to go to their need to be continued, alternatives indications earlier that people were designated polling stations to cast such as opening 20 polling stations going to contest along with me, and their votes. And this translates into during National Council elections I welcomed them. Some even came a lot of expenses. If the Election and 47 during National Assembly and talked to me about their interest. Commission had allowed people to elections in larger towns like Besides, Radhi Gewog formally vote from their station of residence, Thimphu, Phuntsholing, Gelephu nominated a candidate in a gewog would it have resulted in a bigger and Samdrup Jongkhar and zomdue although he withdrew later. voter turnout? How can elections be settlements with large population of More people however, were interested made more accessible to the people? armed forces and students should in joining political parties than be considered. Let alone private contesting for National Council. The A. I think we need to re-think how and corporate employees and their honour of red scarf should not have to expand voting opportunities. family members, even civil servants deterred anyone from contesting. Even though postal ballots are made may choose to come and vote rather In fact, it should be a motivation for available to some group of voters, than send postal ballots. Voting can people to stand as candidates and my own experience finds that many also be spread over a few days rather serve our country. postal ballots are not counted due than confining them to one day. For to mistakes made by applicants. eligible voters in other countries, Q. As postal ballots are only meant Postal ballots are costly. So we need e-votes could be considered. It is not Contact Ph 00975-2-324667(O) 00975-2-327699(F), 00975-17600023(M) for civil servants and corporate to explore alternatives. I feel that impossible. P.O Box- 916, Thimphu, Bhutan E-mail : [email protected] [email protected] www.bhutanyudatours.com

58 The Raven May / June, 2013 INTERVIEW Bhutan Kuen-Nyam Party’s Tshewang Tashi LEARNING TO LOVE FIVE YEARS ON: LIVING WITH THE WORK A REVIEW OF THE CONSEQUENCES BHUTAN YUDA TOURS & TREKS p.26 RULING PARTY p.10 OF TEENAGE PREGNANCY p.58 “Your gateway to Bhutan for a unique experience with your loved ones” Your Monthly Guardian NU 100 JANUARY 2013 ISSUE 3 VOLUME 1 www.ravenmag.com

Contact Ph 00975-2-324667(O) 00975-2-327699(F), 00975-17600023(M) P.O Box- 916, Thimphu, Bhutan E-mail : [email protected] [email protected] www.bhutanyudatours.com

The Raven May / June, 2013 59 leisure

Calvin & Hobbes

Beau Peep

Beetle Bailey

60 The Raven May / June, 2013 QUICK CROSSWORD

1 2 3 4

5 6

7 8

Last Month’s Solution

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 9 10 11 H E R E B Y A G R E E D O A A A X O 8 9 12 A X I O M B O L L A R D R N B I I C G 10 11 S I B L I N G L I T H E 13 14 E O C E D 14 12W O 13R T H L E S S 15 15U I E E 16H 17N E 18W T S 19E N 20G R A V E 17 I A I S A W Y 16 21 22 Q U I B B L E F I E N D U S L F E A 23E S T E E M 24D E A D L Y

Solution Next Month

Across Down

5 Promotion (11) 1 Half a dozen deliveries (4) 7 Rend (4) 2 Smarty-pants (4-3) 8 Miserable (8) 3 Number of Deadly Sins (5) 9 Once and for all (7) 4 Trader (8) 11 Fox’s lair (5) 5 Yachting prize (8,3) 13 Stinging insects (5) 6 Not long ago (3,5,3) 14 Break into many bits (7) 10 Draw near (8) 16 Cadge (8) 12 Fastest land animal (7) 17 Commanded (4) 15 Male relative (5) 18 Unusual characteristic (11) 17 French cheese (4) Courtesy: Guardian UK Guardian Courtesy:

The Raven May / June, 2013 61 LIVING WITH GARBAGE

The household scrap collector has been part of Bhutan’s recycling machinery for decades now. They pay people for their waste and then sell it to the recyclers for a profit. Changa, however, collects things that have been thrown directly into the trash can. By MITRA RAJ DHITAL

ne chilly May day the sky is dark and overcast, about to give way any moment to a downpour. OChanga, his chin nuzzled into his chest, in an effort to escape the strong wind, takes shelter beneath the low roof that is protruding out of his small shack. He isn’t quick enough though. A swirl of gritty dust envelopes him as he sticks to the tin wall of his home. Just next to him, under the open CHANGA sky, the passageway smells of waste and decay. At one end of it, close to the entrance of his home, is a huge worn out sack - half full, yet too large for indoor display - flapping furiously in the wind. The 62-year-old father of six, just before the dust storm and now the rain, had been sorting through the trash he had collected that morning from around the suburbs of Thimphu. Cardboard box, yes. In the border town of Jaigaon, it will sell for Nu. 2 a kilogram. Tin, yes, Nu. 2.5 per kilo. Scraps of paper, Nu. 1.75. Empty bags of potato chips, no. Not everything he has collected will fetch him money. Changa’s 29-year-old wife, Tshering Yuden, just prior to the wind and rain, had pulled out a black computer keyboard and hand- ed it to her husband. Holding it still, he emerges from his shelter and looks at it with a hint of fascination. Then, he shoves it into the half-full sack of recyclables. It will sell - he has no other use for it. About 15 others like Changa

62 The Raven May / June, 2013 work throughout Thimphu and ter,” he says. “Back then, a beer its surrounding areas collecting bottle would fetch me Nu. 3.25, Changa is second from waste and scrap. They constitute Today, I’d be happy if I got Nu. the bottom in Thimphu’s not even one percent of the capi- 2 for it.” tal’s population, yet they recycle These days, Changa collects recycling chain. Below almost 20 percent of the mate- waste and scrap from people’s him are the landfill waste- rial the city discards, saving the homes and from the many Municipality of Thimphu a lot of restaurants around town. When pickers; above him are money and work. he has money he even buys the specialized door-to- Poverty forces people into what he thinks will sell. And this line of work – scrap collec- on days his collection doesn’t door scrap collectors. tion. And although these waste- amount to much, he heads for pickers don’t face any discrimina- the Memelakha landfill, a few truckload every other month to tion in Bhutan, they still undergo kilometers away from Thim- sell in Jaigaon. Now, all that has a great deal of hardship trying to phu, where he will spend the changed! eke out a living from it. day rummaging through the Hiring a DCM truck to carry This year, making a living unwanted filth. the waste to the bordering town has been tougher than usual, ac- Changa is second from the of India is also beginning to cording to Changa. bottom in Thimphu’s recycling prove cumbersome for Changa. “A few years ago, for a chain. Below him are the land- What would cost him Nu. 7, truckload of scrap that I’d take fill waste-pickers; above him tHIMPHU, EACH 000 for a one way trip a year or YEAR, PRO- to Jaigaon every second month, are the specialized door-to-door DUCES MORE two back, now costs him Nu. 10, I’d make a profit of almost Nu. scrap collectors who get the THAN 20,000 000, and with dealers/recyclers 7, 000,” says the soft spoken ‘cream of the crop’ – corrugated TONNES OF WASTE not paying as much as they did man from Kurtoe, getting into cardboard, paper, and beverage AMOUNTING TO in the past, his profit margins his thick, dirty, jacket to shield containers from homes and 50,000 KG OF have decreased drastically. Add WASTE EVERYDAY himself from the wind. “Today, offices. to that the house rent of Nu. it is difficult to make even Nu. The household scrap col- 2, 500 he has to dish out every 3,500 every three months. Every- lector has been part of Bhutan’s tHE THIMPHU month, along with the household thing, from waste to money, has recycling machinery for decades CITY CORPORATION expenses. become scarce.” now. They pay people for their SPENDS ALMOST “It is tough to make a living,” nU 10 MILLION A Surprisingly, the ongoing collection and then sell it to YEAR ON WASTE he says with a grim look on his rupee issue in the country affects the recyclers for a good profit. COLLECTION face. what scrap is available and what Changa collects things that have His children don’t visit him money they can get for it. Fur- been thrown directly into the anymore after he separated from ther, the waste collecting trucks, trash can. But now, he has no their mother, his first wife, four donated by the Japanese govern- choice but to keep aside some years ago. ment, doing its rounds around money he makes from his trips “As long as they can look the capital every day in order to Jaigon in order to purchase after themselves it doesn’t matter to create a cleaner city – means bottles – both glass and plastic – whether they visit me or not. At scrap and waste collection is out and metals. least I’ve educated all of them of sight and out of mind. The “Competition is stiff,” and they now have decent jobs,” City Corporations efforts that is he smiles. “Even after going he says. “But to be honest, I think succeeding in cutting of the sup- around every day for three they are ashamed of what I do, ply of scrap only translates into months at a stretch, it is dif- and are embarrassed to visit me.” waste-pickers losing their source ficult to collect one truckload of Changa, before he got the title of income and, in most cases, waste.” of ‘Scrap Dealer’, was a constable their homes. For them, scrap is About two years back, when with the Royal Bhutan Police. survival. there were not many people In 1990, he resigned, and with “When I started collecting waste in his line of work, Changa whatever money he had made in 2008, business was much bet- could manage to collect one as a policeman, he opened up a

The Raven May / June, 2013 63 bar. But there are one too many gienic surroundings. They are into this trade, Changa says. bars in Thimphu competing also prone to fever and nausea “I have to send her to with each other and soon his which probably results from the school. This year, I haven’t business went bust. Changa various environments they are fallen ill at all, and if my good was then compelled to take up exposed to. health continues, I can carry the job of a security guard at the Changa was no exception. on for another 10 to 12 years Wood Craft Centre in Thimphu. Throughout 2012, he was collecting waste. I know I still And though his meager salary bedridden with chest pain and have it in me,” he says, as he wasn’t enough to look after his fever. The result – he had no pets a stray dog who seems wife and children, he guarded income whatsoever for the to have found a home with the Centre’s premises for 12 entire year. Changa. years. In 2009, after his retire- “My credit had accumulated. Finally, the dust settles, ment, without any savings, he But, once I was well, I worked the rain stops, and there is was left with no choice but to hard and I’ve managed to clear silence again as the pounding get into dealing with scrap. it all,” he says. on the tin roof ceases. As the According to a doctor at the Nothing else seems to both- CHANGA SORTS moments pass, the discarded Jigme Dorji National Referral er him, not even the upcoming OUT THE WASTE fragments of people’s lives OUTSIDE HIS Hospital in Thimphu, a lot of elections. All he is interested in are shoved back into Changa’s SMALL SHACK IN men, women and children who is collecting enough waste that HEJO, THIMPHU burlap sack. A brown purse, work as waste-pickers are se- will pull his family – his wife a broken toilet seat, stacks of verely anemic. Most of them are and her young child from her newspapers and books, things prone to respiratory illnesses previous marriage – through. that once meant something to caused by exposure to dust and Inside his one-room home, someone. One man’s waste is gastrointestinal diseases caused on the lap of his wife, lies her truly another’s treasure. by eating in unclean and unhy- young child. She will not get

64 The Raven May / June, 2013 Photo Courtesy: “http://abhijit-suryawanshi.blogspot.com/ farm4.staticflickr.com and soonweare ontheroad.The pulls outoftownwithagroan acrid, sharp,familiar. Thebus betelnut haveasimilarnose— betelnut, orboth.Vomit and faintly ofvomitormaybe strongly ofadirtydiaperand Theairinsidethebussmells For having limitedornoaccesstothe internet. Only36percentofgovern - ment inabriberycase. Phuentsholing forhisallegedinvolve- An Officer In-chargeoftraffic in Despite beingdisqualified fromcon- hard andstayonasapoliticalparty. testing theNational Assemblyelec- tions, BKNPwillcontinueworking ment schoolshaveaccesstothe Bhutan Kuen-Nyam party Government Schools Police Officer internet.

the UnitedStates,whoareon exchange program attheRoyal Thimphucollege, Eleven studentsofWheatonCollege Students ofWheaton College spent threedaysinthecountry tohelp in thereconstructionofKonchosum A 21-year-old former monk For impregnatinga15-year-oldgirl. He wassentencedtonineyearsin For sweeping11awardsforhisfilm Thank You Sir attheNational Film lhakhang inBumthang. Tshering Gyeltshen prison bythecourt. Award.

1 H D T T year. percent forthesameperiodlast year was8.3percent.It9.5 rently. ings standat50billioncur- balloon until2017.Theborrow- 2012 comparedwith2011. ministry recently. ings releasedbytheeducation the schoolperformancerank- schools in2012,accordingto in thelistoftop40performing the year. the Rs20.5Batbeginning of pee borrowingstoRs17Bfrom months havebroughtdownru- maintained theirrankings 5 schoolsinthecountryhave The Raven from January toMarch this he annualinflationrate borrowings willcontinueto he short-termIndianrupee dropped by37percentin rukair’s profit after tax earnings inthelastfew ydropower grantsand

May /June, 2013 65 most discussed news

Interim government takes over The RCSC smack Two teachers involved with the People’s Democratic Party (PDP) and the Druk Chir- wang Tshogpa (DCT) have been asked to compulsory retire by the Royal Civil Service Commission for breaching the civil service code of conduct. They had declared in the media to contest the upcoming elections as candidates for PDP and DCT prior to putting up their resignations. Although, the parties have submitted the details of the candidates, the election commission will begin scrutinizing all the candidates only before the general elections.

The dissolving of the parliament and cabinet saw the interim govern- DHI Stands firm ment headed by the chief justice taking over the task to govern the country. against rupee crisis Some of the interim government’s responsibilities will be to complete the 10th Five Year Plan, develop the 11th, and mobilise aid and other financial assistance from foreign entities. The date for the general election has been fixed at July 13, and the interim government will continue heading the government until a new one has been sworn in.

Sarpang Kidnap case gets closure

After a spate of kidnappings that rocked Sarpang last year, people are While the economic sectors like the con- finally relieved that the perpetrators have been brought to justice. struction and transport sectors have been hit Five men, three from the bordering Indian state of Assam and two the hardest by the shortage of Indian rupees, Bhutanese nationals from Sarpang, were arrested by the police. According to DHI-owned companies have managed to police officials, two non-nationals were directly involved in the kidnapping avoid the impact. while the third is alleged to have aided and abetted in the abduction. Officials of DHI-owned companies, A 35-year-old Bhutanese, involved in kidnapping two people, was also during their annual press conference, said arrested along with a 69-year-old man. the liquidity crunch had no direct impact on Three people, a taxi driver, an astrologer, and the son of a shopkeeper them. This, they said, is because most of the had been kidnapped and held for ransom. All three were released after the DHI-owned companies earn their share of kidnappers demands had been met by their family members. rupee to spend.

66 The Raven May / June, 2013 DPT president to give back his land most discussed 20 percent of the richest Bhutanese population consumed, on an average, 6.7 times more than the poorest 20 percent of the population. 12 percent is the current rate of poverty in Bhutan. Druk Phuensum Tshogpa president, Jigmi Y.Thinley, said he would like to give back his land in Gyalpoizhing, while meeting with the people there during his campaign. The land that racked up quite a controversy over its allotment, the president said did not benefit him at all. “Irrespective of what the court says, I don’t want to keep the land but give it to the 11,049 people,” he said. of Bhutanese households are poor and 2,322 extremely poor. There are 127,942 The National Council election sees less voters households in Bhutan. The National Council election in April saw an overall turnout of less than half the registered voters in the country. In the Dzongkhags, voter participation varied from 33 to 73 percent, the highest turnout being in Gasa. 52.5 percent of those who cast their votes were women while 47.5 percent were 45 men. And of the 16 former council members who had resigned, forgoing their benefits, percent of the Bhutanese to re-contest, only 6 were re-elected. electorate voted during the National Council election. 76 Thimphu has the highest adult literacy rate at 76 percent.

The Raven May / June, 2013 67 art

Title: Maidens This form by Artist Tashio excels in its tribute to Bhutanese textiles and contemporary designs. Artist: Tashio The mixed media techinuque used by the artist is appealing and under-statedly sensual. Medium: Mix Media This and other artworks are available at Terton Art Gallery in Thimphu.

68 The Raven May / June, 2013 TERTON gallery

BY KELLY DORJI

+975 77 88 99 99 Hotel Druk [email protected] Clock Tower 5th floor, Zimchu apartments, Square Wongzin Lam, PO Box 354, Thimphu, Bhutan Wongzin Lam Bhutan Punjab Bank The Raven April, 2013 69 cover story

(Continued from page 15) happened to them nobody, including acknowledged he knew it did happen. ing condoms in the monasteries (as Kuensel society, pointed out that it was wrong; But to them, it was just an unfortunate reported) or setting up an investigative unit, that it is a heinous crime, one that incident. The monastery had been which sees no cases because no one dares should be punishable by law. Why is kind enough to take the boys in and report them (ours was the first case brought it that society, including the media, they knew the head Lama, whom the to the Dratsang from outside the monastery), knows and does nothing? Where does boys had wronged by stealing from, so becomes a futile attempt at change. Nothing this apathy come from? Is it out of how could they now hold both Lama will change. fear, out of “supposed” respect for and Dratsang to task? They would be Child molesters and rapists are often Buddhism/the monks/the religious seen as ungrateful after all that had people known to the victim and someone institution, or is it because they just been done for them. When I raised they are familiar with. That is why it makes don’t see it as being wrong? One the case with educated colleagues their it even more difficult for these children and reason offered is that it is pointless. reaction baffled me equally. They were for families to report these cases or for some Pursuing such a case is not only sympathetic, but didn’t seem to want people to see their perpetrators as evil. exhaustive, it takes a toll on your psy- me to make an “issue” out of it. One che, and it is extremely stressful. Be- even said that I should seek compensa- SHIRKING RESPONSIBILITY cause many of the monks come from tion for the boys, like a school scholar- The Dratsang itself seemed to be unsure similar backgrounds like Penjore ship, so that they would at least benefit of how to move forward. Instead of suggest- and Thinley, there is really no one from it. After all, it was presumed that ing a course of action it asked for a written who has the will, energy, resource or justice – the way I sought it – would be response to what was expected by filing this connections to stay the course. And, hard to come by, if at all it did. While case, I responded: when your case winds up at the very this was all said in good faith, it sur- “The issue is simple – either the inci- institution that you want to hold ac- prised me that very few seemed to see dents alleged and supported by testimony countable, how do you expect not to why it was important to hold the Insti- and inquiry are a crime or they are not. If it feel intimidated? tution accountable for something that is a crime, then the law should apply regard- Also, even after knowing what happens to these children, destitute or less of who these people are, (monks), or had happened, both families seemed not. This was not just about Penjore where they come from (the Dratsang)....The to have no interest in righting the and Thinley, but that of many other Dratsang is being given an opportunity to wrongs. When Penjore’s Uncle, also monks like them out there. show leadership and set an example. It is at an ex-monk, heard that he had been Although these reactions were dif- times of trouble and stress that true leader- molested, he told him not to make ficult to comprehend at first, it became ship shows moral fortitude. People feel that incredulous remarks. Yet when I told clearer that it was the general mindset by hiding these social ills we will prevent an the Uncle that this might have hap- that made this acceptable. Domestic institution from disgrace. It is submitted, pened and there was another boy who violence is a close enough example. however, to the contrary. If the Dratsang puts could corroborate his statement, he For the longest time Bhutanese society the interests of the victims and treats this as did not see it as something wrong a crime, it will earn respect from the com- or even as a crime. Even today many munity and society for setting moral stand- don’t see it as such, but only by pass- ards and leading the way. By downplaying ing legislations and prosecuting it can such an incident and claiming the privilege Domestic violence we make it a crime and teach society of excusing itself and its members from civil is a close example. that it is wrong. It is the same for law that applies to those it asks to follow it, sexual abuse, especially that of monks. risks losing credibility and respect. For the longest But unlike domestic violence where Buddhism is a religion that may be toler- legislations were passed only recently, ant, but it is also a religion of compassion time Bhutanese sexual abuse penalties are very clearly and empathy for the weak, the underprivi- society did not see spelled out in the penal code. However, leged, and those that are suffering. If anyone it doesn’t seem to apply to the monks should know more about this, it should be it as something because they are beyond the reach of the Dratsang. I am simply asking for your the civil courts. Sadly, despite knowing understanding of this problem; that it is wrong or even as these dark truths nobody has ques- wrong, and that it is a crime. If the Dratsang a crime. tioned it. Meanwhile, the Dratsang cannot treat it as one then, as I said before, trying to bring in change by distribut- disrobing a scapegoat doesn’t do much. Photo Courtesy: LEON RUBTEN

70 The Raven May / June, 2013 The appropriate handling of this case persistence in wanting them to make to be a monk at the monastery. The situa- gives the Dratsang every opportunity a criminal case out of it? According to tion of the two other boys was also not fol- to show leadership and prove to our a message conveyed from the Monas- lowed up on by the Dratsang, RENEW, or society and the world that it is differ- tic Center, I was now free to pursue NCWC. Everything is back to functioning ent from those institutions that have a criminal case against this monk in the way it does, except maybe for the boys. condoned and hidden such cases. the civil court. They would not report Although both Penjore and Thinley are You are asking me to make a sub- the crime or pursue a criminal case back in school, one with the help of rela- mission on the handling of this case. It on behalf of the boys while he was in tives, the other through a sponsor, things is, however, not my role to determine the monk body. This way, the Dratsang will never be the same. They have lost the outcome. It happened in one of prevented itself from being implicated, their innocence and live in shame of what your monasteries, under your supervi- washed its hands of the case, and happened to them. Penjore still has anger sion, and by some of your members. avoided moral responsibility and legal that he lost his mother while he was going The Dratsang has the moral and civic accountability for what happened. They through this horrible ordeal, and Thinley responsibility to society to act appro- were essentially leaving it up to these lost his father who succumbed to alcohol, priately for the sake of little children two boys, to pursue their case or it was six months after they ran away. that were entrusted to your care.” taken for granted that somebody would By the end of October the Drat- help them. By SONAM ONGMO sang did take action. The 20-year old Meanwhile, no broader inquiry was (The names of all the boys have been changed monk was disrobed and had left the made into the events, and nothing hap- to protect their identities and the name of the monastery. But was that because of my pened to the 60-year old. He continues monastery has been deliberately left out). Photo Courtesy: LEON RUBTEN LAST WORD

bjectivity in politics is a rare thing. Any time someone sets out to report political events, analyze a O political situation or, yes, evaluate a politician, elements of subjectivity will creep in. To begin with, we use words to communicate and words (whether or not one’s good with it) have denota- tive as well as connotative meanings. While communicating their primary meaning, they also signal other messages. Say, for example, I want to tell you that a certain candidate, although a good speaker, is incapable of putting forward his points. The impression you’ll get of the politician will vary consider- ably depending on whether I call him ‘verbose’ or ‘eloquent.’ And thus, such subjectivity can so spin the objective meaning.

Obviously, there’s more to it than just the choice of words. You see, political reporters aren’t just disinter- ested observers. In fact, they – at least the ones I know and I’ve worked with – feel pretty passionately about their beat. They’re all political enthusiasts, if one can call them that. They have points of view and they like good and interesting politicians. The standards, however, of ‘good’ and ‘interesting’ are to a certain degree quite personal; more so now, as most politicians are trying hard to come across as presentable and appealing – both subjective qualities.

Good political writers want good, interesting, and promising candidates and political activity that they will enjoy writing and telling you about. So, in a sense, you could say, they’re agents for politicians and political parties. When a politician or a political party deserves credit, writers will often tell you, just as they tell you about the disappointments they feel. Having said that, however, success in political writing requires pains- taking fairness and impartiality. That doesn’t mean that it is the same thing as objectivity. Simply, because it shouldn’t be about personal likes and dislikes of the writer. If a politician is criticized, it should be explained why and the justifications for the criticism should be supported by facts. Yet political writers/journalists are unapologetic about being subjective in their evaluation of politics. Perhaps that’s what the job requires.

Some of you, in the Presidential Debates of political parties, saw some of former Opposition Leader Tsher- ing Tobgay’s remarks as unwarranted but what would you have the political writers/journalists do? The fact is, they appreciate eloquence mingled with valid arguments and, as long as those qualities are visible, they’ll write about it.

And on the subject of bias, that most politicians accuse the media of, politicians have to understand that in a free press, journalists and even citizens are free to express themselves whether they are biased or not. We can complain about biases, no doubt. But to take action against free speech or the practice of free press is another story, one that then undermines a democratic institution – something that a good politician should instead be leading the struggle for. Credibility is the one thing any good politician, media house, or for that matter anybody who wants respect, has to offer. Compromise it, and everything comes tumbling down. We don’t need organizations or politicians to curb speech or criticism, just because we worry that lies are being spread. Credibility, at the end of the day, will take care of that, as it always has.

Politicians in particular always seem to disagree about what’s written about them or their party, and that is perfectly fine. But if they want to prove their maturity, proficiency and aptitude as a politician or a leader of a democratic nation, they should have the ability to weather such criticism without whining.

At the end of the day, journalists have a greater duty towards their readers/viewers/listeners, and above all to themselves. And hopefully they understand that. As a journalist, I know that many are in this line of profes- sion to bring their version of truth to the people. So, that leaves us with the final question: Do journalists operate with true objectivity? Now, isn’t that a subjective question?

Mitra Raj Dhital