Bill Christman [email protected] www.abctravelpros.com 719-445-8698

SAINT JOHN, NB

OVERVIEW

Introduction

Saint John, New Brunswick, also known as "Port City," has some of the highest tides in the world. It's situated where the mouth of the mighty St. John River meets the Bay of Fundy. The funnel-shaped dip in the Atlantic coastline creates tides of up to 55 ft/17 m twice a day. At high tide, the water in the harbor rises an average of 28 ft/9 m and forces the St. John River to flow backward.

But Saint John has much more to offer than a simple maritime vacation. Rich in historic architecture, its Trinity Royal area boasts some of the best-preserved, ornate Victorian-era architecture anywhere. Intricately carved fruits and flowers festoon grand brick buildings, and stone gargoyles stare down from the windows of the historic business district.

The rich tapestry of the past unfolds in Saint John, the oldest incorporated city in Canada. Partridge Island in Saint John Harbour is Canada's Ellis Island, the first quarantine station for immigrants making their way into the country. As many as 2,000 people died there in the latter part of the 19th century. The site, although now closed to visitors, can be seen from shore.

Saint John is also a treasure trove of eco-attractions—from Hopewell Rocks, where you can actually walk on the ocean floor, to parks and beaches inhabited by hundreds of wildlife species. Saint John also boasts the Reversing Falls, a phenomenon created by the awesome force of the changing tide twice a day. Famous for its fog days, or "nature's air-conditioning," it's the perfect place to escape from the heat of summer.

As one of the largest cities in New Brunswick, Saint John is also an international port destination with a bustling marketplace. Boutiques, family-owned businesses and local artisans thrive there. We love the internal pedway system (called the Inside Connection) that connects the waterfront to the entire uptown core.

In recent years, Saint John has experienced an ecological awakening. A clean harbor, newly planted trees and pathways through parks comprise the first phase of a vast waterfront redevelopment that promises to put the Saint John harbor firmly on the cruising map.

Sights—The Reversing Falls at both high and low tide; the views from the Carleton Martello Tower; people-watching and summer gardens in King's Square; walking up to Fort Howe for a panoramic view of the city; the beautiful sandy shore of Mispec Park just 20 minutes from downtown.

Museums—The New Brunswick Museum to see both a mastodon and a rare Atlantic right whale; the vintage atmosphere at Barbour's General Store; Loyalist House, the oldest house in Saint John; the spiral staircase in the Old County Courthouse.

Memorable Meals—The Old City Market for its variety of lunch choices; breakfast at the Magnolia Cafe; a sunset dinner at the Reversing Falls Restaurant; chowder and scones at The Infusion Tea Room. Late Night—Cold, locally brewed Moosehead beer; Saint John Ale House in Market Square for a craft beer; a glass of wine at the petite basement-level Happinez Wine Bar.

Walks—Irving Nature Park for bird-watching and hiking one of the eight trails; walking the trails of the Harbour Passage; strolling the downtown waterfront; a walk around the beautiful squares, especially King's Square.

Especially for Kids—The Canada Games Aquatic Centre for its pools and waterslides; the endangered-animal zoo at Rockwood Park; Lily Lake Pavilion at Rockwood Park for a day of outdoor fun.

Saint John is located on the shore of the Bay of Fundy and at the mouth of the St. John River, which extends northward toward Quebec. The river meets the Bay of Fundy at the Reversing Falls, a phenomenon that forces the river to run backward twice a day.

Downtown Saint John can feel like a maze, with one-way, narrow streets that were laid out in the 1780s, but the indoor pedway system that allows you to walk from the waterfront to the entire uptown district is perfect for foul-weather days. The houses clinging to the hills often remind visitors of St. John's, Newfoundland.

The city is divided by a modern four-lane highway (Route 1) that connects the city to St. Stephen in the west and Moncton in the northeast. Another artery (Route 7) connects Saint John with Fredericton. The St. John River is passable at two points: one at the Reversing Falls for rail and vehicular traffic, and the other at the Harbour Bridge. To get a good view, take the Harbour Bridge, then drive up to the Carleton Martello Tower and return downtown across the bridge that crosses over the Reversing Falls and head along Douglas Avenue to Main Street.

The other major artery is Rothesay Avenue, which will take you out past the suburbs and to the airport.

The shores of the Bay of Fundy were home to Micmac (Mi'kmaq) and Maliseet (Wolastoqiyik) natives when French explorer Samuel de Champlain arrived on the nearby island of Saint Croix in 1604. It became a busy Indian trading post that French and English settlers battled over for years until the English finally prevailed by means of the Treaty of Paris in 1763.

During the American Revolution, Saint John served as sanctuary to American settlers loyal to the British crown. After the war, Loyalists fleeing the newly independent U.S. arrived in 1783 to claim grants of land—rewards for their allegiance—from the British monarch. They were a mixed lot—farmers, doctors, clergymen, carpenters—some illiterate, some Harvard-educated.

Among them was Benedict Arnold, denounced as a traitor during the American Revolution, whose questionable business practices made him just as unpopular in Saint John as he had been in the U.S. (His effigy was burned on King Street, and he eventually fled to England.)

Saint John was created as a city by Royal Charter in 1785, making it Canada's oldest incorporated city, and it still proudly displays a crown on its official crest.

New Brunswick's supply of timber ensured Saint John's success as a shipbuilding center, helping the town to grow rapidly. The first chartered bank in Canada opened there, and the population swelled even more when hundreds of thousands of Irish immigrants arrived in the 1840s.

In 1877, fire swept through the heart of the city, destroying 1,600 homes and businesses. Undaunted, the people of Saint John completely rebuilt their city within four years, competing with one another to construct the most ornate factories, churches and office buildings. Today, this city has the largest group of intact Victorian structures in Canada.

Although Saint John no longer builds ships, the port is still one of Canada's busiest—the harbor stays open year-round, even when other northeastern ports are covered with ice. Saint John is also home to Canada's largest oil refinery.

Location

Ships enter the Bay of Fundy, which separates Nova Scotia from New Brunswick and is home to the tall tides of Fundy. Now considered the gateway to New Brunswick—and the second-largest port in Atlantic Canada—Saint John welcomes about 70 cruise ships annually and more than 185,000 cruising tourists.

The majority of cruise ships dock in the heart of Saint John at the Marco Polo Cruise Terminal (formerly Pugsley A/B), while others may dock at Long Wharf. A vendors market operates outside during cruise season, and the terminals have Wi-Fi and phones available. The port also rents its facilities for special events. Phone 506-636-4869. http://www.sjport.com. The cruise lines offer dozens of shore excursions in Saint John (and many exclusive to the lines). For those who choose to explore on their own, choices are close by and easy to reach—much of Saint John's appeal is its easy access from waterfront to city.

Harbour Passage (a series of walking paths) connects the waterfront to heritage sites and downtown shops. The passage extends from the Boardwalk at Market Square "uptown" (as downtown is called in Saint John) to the food pavilions on Bentley Street and Chesley Drive. Another leg of the passage takes you from Fort LaTour through Hilyard Street near Fort Howe, and then out to Fallsview Park, the Reversing Falls and the west side of the city.

When a cruise ship is in port, taxis line the front of the docks, and a temporary greeting station is staffed with local volunteers. Businesses in the city schedule hours around the cruising schedule, especially in the winter months, and on those days you'll find extended hours of business to accommodate shore excursions.

The nearest tourist-information center is at the Shoppes of City Hall in the Inside Connection Pedway Mall level 2. Phone 506- 658-2990. Toll-free 866-463-8639. http://www.tourismsaintjohn.com.

For more information, contact Saint John Port Authority, Marco Polo Cruise Terminal, 111 Water St. Phone 506-636-4869. http://www.cruisesaintjohn.com.

Typical excursions may involve a tour of Saint John by bus or foot. Museums, quaint boutiques and exciting food choices are easily accessible by foot; Market Square is teeming with authentic Atlantic restaurants, and local artisans hawk their wares. If you're traveling during the summer months, you will likely land during one of the many summer festivals that celebrate the music, lifestyle and hospitality of the Maritimes.

Consider taking one of the historic walking tours (most are about 90 minutes in length) to sample the 400 years of rich Loyalist history. Prince William's Walk begins at Market Square, passes The Three Sisters Lamp and a number of historic buildings, and concludes at Saint John's first frame building. The Loyalist Trail traces the footsteps of settlers who fled there during the American Revolution, and the Victorian Stroll guides you past some of the grandest homes built after the great fire of 1877.

You'll need a car if you want to see the Reversing Falls, which we highly recommend. Alternatively, a jet boat tour will let you actually feel the calm waters suddenly lurch and churn as the mighty St. John River rises with the tide. It's safe for family members of most ages, but children younger than age 6, pregnant women and the elderly may want to exercise caution and watch from the shore, or take the milder sightseeing tour instead.

If you have more time, consider a trip to a fishing village, such as Grand Bay-Westfield, Rothesay, Quispamsis or St. Martins. If you travel east, St. Martins will provide plenty of photo-ops of lighthouses, covered bridges, fishing boats and sea caves. Consider parking your car and hiking the Fundy Trail for breathtaking views you won't find anywhere else in the world.

To the west you'll find the resort town of St. Andrews by-the-Sea, where you can explore the stately Algonquin Hotel. Beautiful sandy beaches, riverside campgrounds and peaceful drives along the coast await you there. Free cable-ferries criss-cross the river all along these routes, so take time to explore.

Potpourri

The St. John River was discovered on the feast day of St. John the Baptist in 1604 and was named accordingly. The river later lent its name to the city. In 1925, the city began an effort to be called Saint John—spelled out—to distinguish itself from St. John's, Newfoundland.

The foghorn and the tea bag both were invented in Saint John, with necessity fueling local invention. Robert Foulis's foghorn was first used on Partridge Island in 1859. The origin of the tea bag is a little trickier—it's a local claim to fame through Red Rose Tea, but not easily provable.

You'll see and hear the Irving name a lot: The Irvings are the industrial and financial first family of Saint John. In addition to a gas station on nearly every corner, two immaculate gifts came from the Irving family: the Irving Nature Park, on the west side of the city, and a complete restoration of the Loyalist Burial Ground in the heart of the city.

What's with all of the brick? Following the Great Fire of 1877, three building bylaws were put in place for 10 years to help prevent another fire. One of these stated that new buildings be constructed out of brick and stone. The Marco Polo, a three-masted clipper ship built at Saint John in 1851 and called the fastest ship in the world, set records for sailing between London and Australia (76 days one way, 171 days return). It foundered off the coast of Cavendish, Prince Edward Island, in 1883 and is now a protected National Historic site.

The chocolate-bar wrapper was invented not too far from Saint John in St. Stephen. Arthur Ganong liked to take chocolate with him on fishing trips but didn't like the mess it made in his pockets, so he started wrapping it in foil. The innovation became popular, and he started selling it packaged that way.

Saint John has the steepest main street in Canada. King Street has an 8% grade, meaning that in the distance of two blocks, the street rises 80 ft/25 m.

Benedict Arnold, called "the greatest rascal that ever was," made his home in Saint John in 1785-91 after he fled the fledgling U.S. as a traitor during the American Revolution.

In 1932, Amelia Earhart became the first woman to cross the Atlantic flying solo. She left from Saint John and flew to Harbour Grace, Newfoundland, where she then departed for Ireland. She carried a copy of the Telegraph Journal, the Saint John local newspaper, with her.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

Visitors to Saint John will have no problem exploring the downtown area on foot. If the weather is questionable, duck inside for a stroll through the pedway system, where you can walk from uptown right to the waterfront. After walking through the beautiful squares, you can climb Carleton Martello Tower for a great city view. Take time to explore the other two forts—Fort Howe and Fort Sainte Marie (better known as Fort LaTour)—to learn the city's early history.

Make the trip out to Reversing Falls, but remember that you'll want to see them twice. The St. John River changes direction throughout the day, and if you visit at slack tide, you'll be able to watch the water stop completely before it begins flowing the other way.

Museumgoers can visit the New Brunswick Museum for awe-inspiring local history and geology. The massive skeletal frame of a rare North Atlantic right whale (known as Delilah) is a hit with the kids. And along the Trinity Royal Heritage preservation area and CenterBeam Place, there is a historic 19th-century building complex, home to stores, restaurants and galleries.

City Market, Canada's longest-running market, provides local color and culinary surprises, especially on weekends when the vendors top up their stalls with local produce, meats and handmade crafts.

Historic Sites

Carleton Martello Tower 454 Whipple St. If you have time, pay a visit to this circular structure, the city's only Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada remaining fortress. It was built for the war of 1812 but wasn't finished until two years after the war was over. The top of the tower boasts a E2M 2R3 panoramic view of the Fundy coastline, the inner harbor and the two- Phone: 506-636-4011 river system flowing into it. You can see all this without paying to go into http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn- the tower, but it's worth the admission price to climb the stairway tunnel carved into 8-ft-/2.5-m-thick walls—claustrophobics and tall people, nhs/nb/carleton/index.aspx however, may want to skip the stairwell. Mid-June to August daily 10 am-5:30 pm; September to mid-October Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm. Can$3.90 adults. 454 Whipple St. (west side), Saint John. Phone 506- 636-4011. http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/nb/carleton/index.aspx.

Church of St. Andrew and St. David 164 Germain St. This congregation was formed with the union of the Presbyterian and Methodist churches in 1925. The sides of the church are constructed Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada with brick from the Victoria Hotel, which was destroyed in the Great Fire E2L 2G4 of 1877. When the two congregations merged to form one church, the Phone: 506-634-3092 stained-glass windows and other artifacts from each church were http://www.standrewstdavid.ca preserved. Hours often change without notice, so it's best to call ahead if you're making a special trip to see the church. 164 Germain St., Saint John. Phone 506-634-3092. http://www.standrewstdavid.ca.

Fort Howe Magazine Street Built by the British to fortify the city's defenses in 1777, Fort Howe sits Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada high on the hill and offers a perfect view of the city. The original blockhouse was lost to a fire but was rebuilt by the Imperial Order of the Phone: 506-658-2855 Daughters of the Empire in 1967 as a centennial project. Magazine Street, Saint John. Phone 506-658-2855.

Fort LaTour 10 Fort Latour Drive A polar opposite to Fort Howe, Fort LaTour (also known as Fort Sainte Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Marie) was built during the 1630s by the French and was integral to the growth of New France. Although the fort is now marked only by a Phone: 506-658-2855 plaque, its colorful (and tragic) history still entices tourists. To see the https://fortlatour.com plaque, follow Fort LaTour Drive underneath the Harbour Bridge. The site is marked with fencing, flags and the plaque; remains are believed to be under the "Green Mound." Some of the artifacts from Fort Sainte Marie can be seen at the New Brunswick Museum and at the naval reserve on Chesley Drive. 10 Fort Latour Drive, Saint John. Phone 506- 658-2855. https://fortlatour.com.

Harbour Passage Waterfront This interconnected system of walking and biking trails (which is fully wheelchair-accessible) is part of the Trans-Canada Trail. It follows the Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada inner harbor and is used year-round by residents and visitors alike. It's a E2L 4Z6 great spot to observe the working port from the north side of the city to Phone: 506-674-4278 downtown; it's currently 2.8 mi/4.5 km long. The interpretive panels http://www.sjwaterfront.com along the way explain the city's rich history. Waterfront, Saint John. Phone 506-674-4278. http://www.sjwaterfront.com.

Imperial Theatre 24 King Square S. Across the street from King's Square stands the refurbished 1913 Imperial Theatre. In its heyday, this majestic theater often appeared on Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada the same theater circuit as New York and London. Ethel Barrymore and E2L 5B8 Harry Houdini, among other luminaries, performed there. It's one of Phone: 506-674-4100 Canada's most striking theaters and definitely worth a visit to see the http://www.imperialtheatre.nb.ca fluted columns, plaster cherubs and glittering chandelier. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm. A 30- to 45-minute tour (Can$2 adults, Can$1 children) takes you backstage, to the sound booth and throughout the entire building. Tours are generally available Monday-Friday, but call ahead for reservations. 24 King Square S., Saint John. Phone 506-674-4100 for the box office, or 506-674-4111 for tours. Toll-free 800-323-7469. http://www.imperialtheatre.nb.ca.

King's Square 12 King Square South Latter-day Loyalists went all out when they designed this square in 1847 —the walkways are laid out like a Union Jack. In the center of the Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada square is an unusual two-tiered bandstand—one of only two in North E2L 5B8 America. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, 12 King Square South (flanked Phone: 506-674-4100 on all four sides by Charlotte, Sydney, King Square North and King Square South streets), Saint John. Phone 506-674-4100. Toll-free 800- 323-7469.

Loyalist Burial Grounds Sydney Street and King Street East The oldest tombstone there may be that of Coonradt Hendricks, dating Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada from 1784. Look for it in the southwest corner of the cemetery, across from the Old County Courthouse. If you watch closely, you'll see numerous beaver motifs throughout the grounds and a beaver fountain. Bricked walkways, Victorian benches and wrought-iron lampposts were installed when the Irving family funded restoration of the cemetery in 1995. The beaver, a Canadian mascot, also represents the hardworking spirit of the earliest settlers of Saint John, and of the Irving family patriarch. Sydney Street and King Street East (and Union and Carmarthen streets), Saint John.

Loyalist House 120 Union St. The white shingled Loyalist House is one of the city's oldest wooden Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada houses, dating from 1810. It's a fine specimen of the Georgian-style homes built by the first prosperous settlers and has a splendid collection E2L 1A3 of furniture dating from 1833 or earlier. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Admission Phone: 506-652-3590 Can$5 adults. 120 Union St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-3590. https://www.facebook.com/merritthome https://www.facebook.com/merritthome.

Old County Courthouse 22 Sydney St. The Old County Courthouse is one of the few buildings to have survived Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada the Great Fire of 1877. Built in 1829, the 49 steps in its three-story, unsupported spiral staircase were cut from solid blocks of stone in Phone: 506-658-2569 Scotland and fitted without a central supporting pillar. The curve and http://new- balance of each step give the staircase the support it needs to stand. brunswick.net/Saint_John/courthouse.html Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm, unless court is in session. Free. 22 Sydney St. (east side of King's Square), Saint John. Phone 506-658-2569. http://new-brunswick.net/Saint_John/courthouse.html.

St. George's Church 100 Watson St. The oldest church building in continuous use in Saint John was built in 1821 with lumber from adjacent King's Square. In 1871, Queen Victoria Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada was asked to settle a dispute over who should be rector. The church E2M 1G2 tower features the city's only mechanically driven pendulum clock. Call Phone: 506-635-8620 ahead for hours if you plan to make a special trip to the church. 100 http://hiswestsidestory.ca Watson St., Saint John. Phone 506-635-8620. http://hiswestsidestory.ca.

St. John's Stone Anglican Church 87 Carleton St. This church was built with stones brought to New Brunswick as ballast in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada the holds of ships and was originally the garrison church for local troops. It has been designated a Canadian National Historic site. It is one of the E2L 2Z2 few structures that survived the Great Fire of 1877. Monday-Friday 9 Phone: 506-634-1474 am-1 pm. 87 Carleton St., Saint John. Phone 506-634-1474. https://www.stonesj.org https://www.stonesj.org.

The Three Sisters Lamp Water and Prince William streets Since 1848, the light has been a navigation beacon for sailors bringing Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada their ships into harbor and is an iconic symbol of the city of Saint John. The original oil lamp was replaced with a gas one in 1847, and that was http://discoversaintjohn.com/places/three- completely refurbished in 1997. In 1967, a plaque was added to honor sisters-lamp sailors who had died 10 years earlier when their boat was sliced in two by another vessel in dense fog. The plaque is a constant reminder of the power of the sea. Water and Prince William streets (St. Patrick's Park South), Saint John. http://discoversaintjohn.com/places/three- sisters-lamp.

Trinity Church 115 Charlotte St. (main door faces You can easily spot Trinity Church—just look for the magnificent town clock and the nearly 6-ft/2-m Atlantic salmon weather vane, which floats Germain Street) more than 200 ft/60 m up the steeple. The Trinity was built as the Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada would-be cathedral for New Brunswick when Saint John had hopes of E2L 2J2 regaining its status as provincial capital. You can step inside and admire the royal coat of arms that Loyalists rescued from the city of Boston Phone: 506-693-8558 during the American Revolution. Monday-Friday 1:30-4:30 pm. 115 http://www.trinitysj.com Charlotte St. (main door faces Germain Street), Saint John. Phone 506- 693-8558. http://www.trinitysj.com.

Barbour's General Store 10 Market Square This authentic 19th-century general store from a rural village was floated down the St. John River by barge (in two pieces) to Saint John Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada and restored in 1967 by the G.E. Barbour Company as a centennial E2L 1E8 project. It's now the starting point for historic walking tours. 10 Market Phone: 506-658-2990 Square, Saint John. Phone 506-658-2990. http://discoversaintjohn.com/places/barbours- http://discoversaintjohn.com/places/barbours-general-store. general-store

New Brunswick Museum Market Square This modern and appealing museum has a wide variety of exhibits that Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada range from natural history to cultural artifacts. It has numerous marine and shipbuilding exhibits, as well as lots of interactive displays for E2L 4Z6 children. You can also see the "tide tower" there: It helps explain the Phone: 506-643-2300 Fundy tides through a series of transparent pipes that mimic the actual http://www.nbm-mnb.ca rise and fall of the harbor. Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday 9 am-5 pm, Thursday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Can$10 adults. Market Square (at the foot of King Street), Saint John. Phone 506-643-2300. Toll-free 888-268-9595. http://www.nbm-mnb.ca.

Saint John Firefighters Museum 24 Sydney St. This museum is located in the No. 2 Engine House, built in 1840, which Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada was one of the fire stations that responded to the Great Fire of 1877. The first floor of this two-level museum features an exhibit of old E2L 2L3 firefighting equipment, along with working examples of the pull-box bell Phone: 506-633-1840 system that was used in Saint John until 911 emergency service was https://www.facebook.com/saint-john- implemented. In the "junior firefighters' room," children can dress up in firefighters-museum- firefighter clothes and slide down a miniature brass pole. The second level contains a moving exhibit about the Great Fire, including before- 200785483768250 and-after pictures and a few items that were salvaged from the ruins. June-September Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm, October-May by appointment only. Suggested donation Can$1 per person, Can$4 per family. 24 Sydney St. (next to the Old County Courthouse), Saint John. Phone 506-633-1840. https://www.facebook.com/saint-john-firefighters- museum-200785483768250.

Saint John Jewish Historical Museum 91 Leinster St. This small museum is dedicated to preserving the history of Saint John's Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Jewish community, which began in 1858, as well as promoting the awareness of the Jewish faith and culture to others. It is the only Jewish E2L 1J2 museum in Atlantic Canada. There is a variety of exhibits, but the Phone: 506-633-1833 Holocaust Commemoration that features student submissions is one http://jewishmuseumsj.com you won't want to miss. Mid-May to October Monday 10 am-3:30 pm, Tuesday-Friday 10 am-4 pm. Can$5 adults. 91 Leinster St., Saint John. Phone 506-633-1833. http://jewishmuseumsj.com.

The Bay of Fundy is Saint John's claim to fame, but what causes the incredible tides is still up for debate. One story, from ancient Micmac legends, tells of a god, Glooscap, who wanted to take a bath in the bay. He had a beaver build a dam across the mouth, but a whale became upset at the restricted ocean water. The whale started to break down the dam with its tail, creating a slosh of water that still moves in and out of the bay. Another revolves around the giant baby Paul Bunyan. His parents placed him in a cradle in the Bay of Fundy, and when he awoke he rocked the cradle so hard that the water is still sloshing back and forth today. A less imaginative explanation (but a more likely one) is that as the bay becomes narrower, the water is forced higher and higher (up to 55 ft/17 m).

Whichever story you choose to believe, you can witness the phenomenon by taking a trip to Reversing Falls. When the tide in the Bay of Fundy is high, it forces the St. John River to run upstream. Depending on when you visit, the river runs upstream or downstream—or it can be as quiet as a millpond. We recommend viewing the falls at two different points of the day—at high tide and low tide—for the full effect. If you wish to see the actual reversal take place, then slack tide (either high or low) is the time to be there. Plan to arrive about 20 minutes before slack and then stay about an hour. The water is slow-moving, but you will actually see it stop completely, then it will start flowing in the opposite direction. Call the Visitor Information Centre at 506-658- 2855 for tide times.

The falls can be seen from several vantage points on land. Fallsview Park, on the upriver side of the bridge, and The Falls Restaurant, immediately adjacent to the bridge on the downriver side, are two particularly good spots. Fallsview Park, a small, green area, offers an up-close view of the rapids, as well as harbor seals. The Falls Restaurant features a gift shop and offers a video presentation about the falls. The restaurant maintains a branch of the Visitor Information Centre.

Irving Nature Park Sand Cove Road You can hike the woodsy cliff trails in this park on the Bay of Fundy (a Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada taxi ride there costs about Can$10 each way). This coastal park with eight diverse trails is home to more than 240 species of birds—and you E2L 4M3 might even see harbor seals on the rock outcroppings. Also, pay Phone: 506-653-7367 attention to the water and you may see some whales. If you explore the http://www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca/Products/I/Irving- tidal pools, look for starfish, barnacles and perhaps some shrimp (you'll Nature-Park.aspx definitely see lots of Irish moss and rockweed). However, the tidal pools are wet and slippery, so you might want to stick to the boardwalk. In winter, the park is open for cross-country skiing, hiking and snowshoeing. Daily 8 am-8 pm. Free. Sand Cove Road, Saint John. Phone 506-653-7367 for more information. http://www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca/Products/I/Irving-Nature-Park.aspx.

Mispec Park 3266 Mispec Road This park overlooks the Bay of Fundy. There's a large natural beach Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada adjacent to playing fields, picnic sites, 3 mi/5 km of hiking trails and a 1,000-ft/305-m sandy beach perfect for swimming. Because the sandbar E2J 4W7 is so long, the tides aren't a concern for swimmers, but the water is still Phone: 506-658-2908 chilly. Facilities for volleyball, field hockey, basketball and badminton http://discoversaintjohn.com/places/hail- also are available, along with a canteen and restrooms. Daily year- yourself-a-tour-guide round for walk-in visitors, May-October for vehicular traffic. Free admission and parking. 3266 Mispec Road, Simonds (20 minutes east of the city center), Saint John. Phone 506-658-2908 for general information. http://discoversaintjohn.com/places/hail-yourself-a-tour- guide.

Rockwood Park 10 Fisher Lakes Drive This 2,200-acre/870-hectare park offers something for almost everyone. It's one of the largest urban parks in North America. There's a Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada campground, golf course (with an aquatic driving range), endangered- E2K 5S2 animal zoo, horseback riding, rock climbing, hiking and jogging, plus Phone: 506-658-2883 mountain biking and trail rides—all in an incredible natural setting. The http://rockwoodpark.ca Interpretation Centre offers maps of the park's many trails, some of which lead to caves or underground streams; others go through blueberry fields and deep into dark spruce forests. The best views are from the hills near the water tower, from the lookout behind Lily Lake Pavilion and from Hemlock Hill (behind the pavilion and near a waterfall). The park also has an arboretum. 10 Fisher Lakes Drive, Saint John. Phone 506-658-2883. http://rockwoodpark.ca. Stonehammer Geopark 1 Market Square Named after the tool geologists use to explore the landscape, this "park" Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada actually covers the entire Saint John region. The geology there is more than 1 billion years old, forged by continents colliding against one E2L 4Z6 another. This truly is a remarkable area and it's worth seeking out the Phone: 506-643-2300 experiences that encompass this UNESCO-recognized site, including http://stonehammergeopark.com experiencing the Reversing Falls, walking the nature trails in Irving Park and driving along the Fundy Trail Parkway. 1 Market Square (administrative office at the New Brunswick Museum), Saint John. Phone 506-643-2300. Toll-free 888-268-9595. http://stonehammergeopark.com.

Recreation

A thriving history-rich port city, Saint John is a great launch-pad for adventure and sightseeing. Onlookers munching at The Reversing Falls Restaurant have the ideal vantage point from which to observe the Reversing Falls in action. For adventure seekers, jet boats whisk by the churning waters during the summer. A recreational trail, Harbour Passage, connects people to green patches, the waterfront and historic sites, and provides magnificent views of the working harbor.

Minutes from the city center, Rockwood Park is an outdoor haven for birders, golfers, walkers, botanists and nature lovers. In the summer, swimmers flock to the sandy beachfront; in winter, cross-country skiers discover that the snow-covered landscape holds its own magical beauty. For more bird-watching, whale-watching, hiking and walking, visit the Irving Nature Park.

Beaches

New River Beach 78 New River Beach Road At 25 mi/40 km from the city, this area is cottage country for a lot of New Brunswickers. There is a provincial park located in the community that Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada features unsupervised swimming, camping, picnic facilities, a volleyball E5J 1G7 court, playground, hiking trails, kayaking and canoeing. Be forewarned Phone: 506-755-4042 that bad-weather systems routinely stall over this area of the province; http://www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca/Products/N/New- don't be surprised if you wake up to dismal skies but find beautiful River-Beach-Provincial-Park.aspx sunshine in the city. Mid-May to mid-October. Admission Can$8 per vehicle, Can$28 for camping with an electrical hook-up. 78 New River Beach Road, Saint John. Phone 506-755-4042. http://www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca/Products/N/New-River-Beach- Provincial-Park.aspx.

There are two public golf courses in the Saint John area, the course at Rockwood Park and the Hampton Golf and Country Club. For additional golf information, contact Golf New Brunswick. Phone 506-451-1349. Toll-free 877-833-4662. http://www.golfnb.ca. Hampton Golf and Country Club 68 William Bell Drive This course is 20 mi/32 km east of the city. Tee times vary depending on the season but can be reserved one day in advance. 68 William Bell Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Drive, Saint John. Phone 506-832-3407. http://www.hamptongolf.ca. E5N 6B3 Phone: 506-832-3407 http://www.hamptongolf.ca

Rockwood Park 1255 Sandy Point Road This course is less than 10 minutes away from downtown Saint John. Tee times can be booked a day in advance; rates vary seasonally. 1255 Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Sandy Point Road, Saint John. Phone 506-634-0090 or 506-631-1877. E2K 5E3 http://rockwoodgolf.ca. Phone: 506-634-0090 http://rockwoodgolf.ca Rockwood Park Stables Mount Pleasant Avenue A good way to see the surrounding area is to go horseback riding. The many scenic trails will take you over hilly terrain in softwood forests past Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada several lakes. You'll enjoy good views of the city and see deer and other E2L 4A5 wildlife, as well as patches of wild blueberries, bogs and birches growing Phone: 506-633-7659 out of the rocky outcroppings. Suitable for adults and children age 10 http://www.horsesinsaintjohn.com and older. Can$30. Mount Pleasant Avenue (Rockwood Park), Saint John. Phone 506-633-7659. http://www.horsesinsaintjohn.com.

The Canada Games Aquatic Centre 50 Union St. This large downtown complex features a 164-ft/50-m, eight-lane Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada competition pool, and other swimming pools, including one for children. There are also waterslides and hot tubs. With an exercise room, sauna E2L 1A1 and plenty of space, it's a good destination on a drizzly day. Monday- Phone: 506-658-4715 Friday 6 am-9 pm, Saturday 6 am-4 pm, Sunday 8 am-4 pm. A public http://aquatics.nb.ca swim pass is Can$7.50 adults, Can$5 seniors and children, Can$20 families. Must be age 17 or older to use the weight room. 50 Union St., Saint John. Phone 506-658-4715. http://aquatics.nb.ca.

YMCA of Greater Saint John 191 Churchill Blvd. At this Y, conveniently located in the uptown core, you'll find weight Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada training (with a fully loaded gym) and a wide variety of classes. Monday- Friday 5 am-10:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7 am-8:30 pm. E2K 3E2 Can$10.50. 191 Churchill Blvd., Saint John. Phone 506-693-9622 or Phone: 506-693-9622 506-693-9622. https://saintjohny.ymca.ca. https://saintjohny.ymca.ca The Bay of Fundy is cold and therefore isn't favored for swimming. If you want to see the huge expanse of rocky beach created by the change in tides, however, visit Saints Rest Beach in Irving Nature Park, west of the city. No public transportation is available to this beach. Taxi fare is about Can$10 each way.

Rockwood Park has lakes that are great for swimming. Lily Lake and Fisher Lake have sandy beaches and are most popular, although swimming may not be supervised as in past years. A fully inclusive playground, basketball courts, picnic sites and fishing are close by. It's a five-minute drive from downtown and is operated by the city of Saint John. Open May-September 8 am-10 pm, September-May 8 am-8 pm. No charge for park entrance, parking or use of the facilities. 506-658-2883. http://www.rockwoodpark.ca

Nightlife

Most Saint John nightclubs cater to a young crowd, but some are also suitable for the 30-and-older set. Popular pubs are found in the Princess Street neighborhood, and you can usually count on several to be open until dawn.

During the summer (July and August), there are regular performances on the Market Square Boardwalk. You'll find nightly entertainment featuring everything from live music to classic cars. For information and a schedule, call 506-658-3600 or visit http://www.marketsquaresj.com.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

3Mile Entertainment Complex 5 Golden Grove Road For a diversity of options, head out to the 3Mile Entertainment Complex. Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada In one location you will find 3Mile Steakhouse and Pub, 3Mile Harley Saloon, Tonic nightclub, and Legends Bar and Grille. 5 Golden Grove E2H 1W4 Road, Saint John. Phone 506-657-8325. http://www.3mile.com. Phone: 506-657-8325 http://www.3mile.com

Britt's Pub & Eatery 42 Princess St. An English-style pub, Britt's is named after Miller Brittain (1912-1968), a Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Saint John artist who had a studio two floors above the pub. The pub's E2L 1K2 art is styled after Brittain's iconic depictions of Saint John longshoremen. Phone: 506-214-5335 Fresh, home-style food includes traditional British pub fare, all-day breakfast and local seafood. Monday-Friday 11 am-1 am, Saturday 9 http://www.brittspub.ca am-1 am, Sunday 9 am-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 42 Princess St., Saint John. Phone 506-214-5335. http://www.brittspub.ca.

Churchill's Bar and Pub 8 Grannan St. Patrons of this pub are greeted at the doorway by a mannequin of Sir Winston Churchill, cigar and all. There are 24 drafts on tap, specialty Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada martinis and good pub grub. First come, first served. Monday- E2L 1H7 Wednesday 11:30 am-1 am, Thursday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 am, Phone: 506-648-2372 Sunday 11:30 pm-midnight. 8 Grannan St., Saint John. Phone 506-648- http://grannangroup.com 2372. http://grannangroup.com.

Happinez Wine Bar 42 Princess St. A subterranean lounge, Happinez serves wines by the glass and bottle, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada as well as a selection of charcuterie platters. Wednesday and Thursday 4 pm-midnight, Friday 4 pm-1 am, Saturday 5 pm-1 am. 42 Princess St., E2L 1K2 Saint John. Phone 506-634-7340. http://www.happinezwinebar.com. Phone: 506-634-7340 http://www.happinezwinebar.com

O'Learys Pub 46 Princess St. This old favorite among locals hosts great live music featuring East Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Coast artists. Monday and Tuesday 11:30 am-11 pm, Wednesday- Friday 11:30 am-2 am, Saturday 3 pm-2 am. 46 Princess St., Saint E2L 1K2 John. Phone 506-634-7135. http://www.olearyspub.com. Phone: 506-634-7135 http://www.olearyspub.com

Rocky's Sports Bar 7 Market Square This pub is decorated with an abundance of hockey mementos and Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada more than two dozen flat-screen TVs. Rocky's also serves breakfast and an inexpensive lunch special. Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-1 am, Sunday E2L 5C8 7:30 am-midnight. 7 Market Square, Saint John. Phone 506-652-5452. Phone: 506-652-5452 http://www.rockyssportsbar.com. http://www.rockyssportsbar.com

Saint John Ale House 1 Market Square This place has the largest selection of draft beers on tap in Saint John. Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada The pub food has a gourmet flair and, in summer, the boardwalk patio is one of the best in the city. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-midnight, Friday E2L 4Z6 and Saturday 11 am-2 am. $$-$$$. 1 Market Square, Saint John. Phone Phone: 506-657-2337 506-657-2337. http://www.saintjohnalehouse.com. http://www.saintjohnalehouse.com

The Canterbury Lounge 47 Canterbury St. Casual lounge meets dance club, The Canterbury is busiest on Friday Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada night. A slick design mixes the building's heritage with a nouveau-chic style. Thursday and Friday 4 pm-2 am, Saturday 6 pm-2 am. Cover E2L 2C6 Can$5. 47 Canterbury St., Saint John. Phone 506-646-1811. Phone: 506-646-1811 http://www.thecanterburylounge.com. http://www.thecanterburylounge.com

Performing Arts

A variety of theaters operate in Saint John, each offering its individual take on local affairs and events. Choices range from symphony performances to dinner theater to various visiting artists and sporting events. Music

Early Music Studio 310 Woodward Ave., Suite 806 An homage to early Canada, this musical group performs Renaissance, baroque and classical music from the period of Canada's early history, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada dating from the first voyage of Jacques Cartier in 1534 to the arrival of E2K 2L1 the Loyalists in 1783. 310 Woodward Ave., Suite 806, Suite 806, Saint Phone: 506-634-8442 John. Phone 506-634-8442. http://www.earlymusicstudio.ca. http://www.earlymusicstudio.ca

Symphony New Brunswick 39 King St., Level 3 New Brunswick's only full-scale symphony orchestra produces two main Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada concert series each season. 39 King St., Level 3 (performs at the Imperial Theatre), Saint John. Phone 506-634-8379 for the box office. E2L 4W3 Phone 506-634-8379 for administration. http://www.symphonynb.com. Phone: 506-634-8379 http://www.symphonynb.com

Imperial Theatre 12 King Square S. This impeccably restored 1913 theater hosts maritime-flavored productions. Whether it's the New Brunswick symphony meeting its Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada country counterparts or the Polyjesters (you really have to see this to E2L 5B8 believe it) or a ballet performance, you'll have an evening you won't Phone: 506-674-4100 forget. Ticket prices vary according to performance. 12 King Square S., http://www.imperialtheatre.nb.ca Saint John. Phone 506-674-4100. Toll-free 800-323-7469. http://www.imperialtheatre.nb.ca.

Saint John Theatre Company 112 Princess St. The province's largest community-based theater production for more Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada than two decades continues to showcase regional and local talent in a variety of theater genres, including Broadway hits. Some recent E2L 1K4 productions have included Chicago, One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest Phone: 506-652-7582 and The Diary of Anne Frank. It performs mainstage shows at the http://www.saintjohntheatrecompany.com Imperial Theatre on King Square South. 112 Princess St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-7582. http://www.saintjohntheatrecompany.com.

TD Station 99 Station St. TD Station hosts visiting artists throughout the year. From monster Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada trucks and Il Divo to Cirque du Soleil, you'll be entertained for however long you choose to spend there. 99 Station St., Saint John. Phone 506- E2L 4X4 632-6103. http://www.harbourstation.ca. Phone: 506-632-6103 http://www.harbourstation.ca

The Phoenix 68 Exmouth St. This dinner theater can host up to 217 people in its classic 1848 Greek Revival building. Dates and performances vary, but usually include a Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada combination of a three-act play and a three-course meal for Can$44.95. E2L 3R8 Showtime 7:15 pm. 68 Exmouth St., Saint John. Phone 506-693-8720. Phone: 506-693-8720 http://www.phoenixdinnertheatre.com. http://www.phoenixdinnertheatre.com

Water Street Dinner Theatre 110 Water St. This theater features main courses such as salmon or prime rib along Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada with a cheeky look at the characters who have shaped the province's past. Daily 6:30-10 pm. Can$44.25. 110 Water St. (above Steamers E2L 0B1 Lobster Co.), Saint John. Phone 506-648-2325. Phone: 506-648-2325 http://www.waterstreetdinnertheatre.com. http://www.waterstreetdinnertheatre.com Spectator Sports

Saint John has no major-league sports franchises but certainly boasts its share of hockey stars and curlers as well as rowing champions. In 1867, the same year Canada became a country, four oarsmen from Saint John won the World Championship in Paris, becoming Canada's first World Champions, and earning them the nickname the "Paris Crew."

As in most Canadian cities, winter is when sports fans pack the pubs for hockey and curling coverage and hit the local arenas and clubs for more hockey and curling action. In addition, the city has the Saint John Sea Dogs, a team with ties to the Quebec Major Junior Hockey League.

Saint John's Exhibition Park Raceway sometimes hosts live harness racing and simulcast races. Sulky's Lounge is the place to catch the excitement there.

Basketball

Saint John Riptide Saint John's Harbour Station, 99 This team is part of an independent professional National Basketball League of Canada. The season runs November-early March, with Station St. playoffs in late March. The team moved to Saint John in 2011 after Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada three years in Manchester, New Hampshire. Games are played at TD E2L 2B5 Station. Saint John's Harbour Station, 99 Station St., Saint John. Phone Phone: 506-657-1234 506-657-1234. http://www.millratsbasketball.ca. http://www.millratsbasketball.ca

Lord Beaverbrook Rink 536 Main St. If you're interested in minor-league hockey, this is the place to catch the next Wayne Gretzky. It seats 2,000 spectators. Monday-Friday 9 am-4 Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada pm. 536 Main St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-6710. E2K 1J4 http://www.lbrink.com. Phone: 506-652-6710 http://www.lbrink.com

Saint John Sea Dogs 99 Station St., Suite 200 The Saint John Sea Dogs are part of the Quebec Major Junior Hockey Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada League and play their games at TD Station. Locals go to see future NHL stars in action. 99 Station St., Suite 200, Saint John. Phone 506-657- E2L 4X4 3647 for tickets. http://sjseadogs.com. Phone: 506-657-3647 http://sjseadogs.com

Exhibition Park Raceway 37 McAllister Drive Need some armchair excitement? Harness racing, a favorite for more than 100 years, offers more bang for your buck than you'd expect. The Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada track, formerly known as Moosepath Park, is open year-round, seven E2L 3Y2 days a week. In summer, there are live races some Saturdays, but track Phone: 506-633-2020 schedules vary, so check before you go. Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm. http://www.exhibitionparksj.com 37 McAllister Drive, Saint John. Phone 506-633-2020. http://www.exhibitionparksj.com.

Saint John Labatt Trojans Rugby 538 Sandy Point Road Hazen White School is the chosen field for this local rugby club, which has both men's and women's teams and minirugby. 538 Sandy Point Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Road, Saint John. http://www.trojansrfc.com. E2K 4R7 http://www.trojansrfc.com

Thistle Saint Andrews Curling Club 49 Dufferin Ave. This is arguably the city's most loved winter sport, and curling lovers Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada gather there to watch skips and rocks and teammates yell "Hurry, hurry." The club, which has been around since 1874, is truly a Canadian E2K 2T7 gem, and some of the province's best curlers are members. Monday- Phone: 506-634-7656 Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday from 10 am, Sunday 1-9 pm. 49 Dufferin http://www.tsacurlingclub.com Ave., Saint John. Phone 506-634-7656. http://www.tsacurlingclub.com.

Shopping

From big-box stores to eclectic shops to a thriving city market, Saint John has a collection of shopping areas where you can find handmade crafts and one-of-a-kind antiques. In Uptown Saint John, favorite spots include Prince William Street for unique gift shops, antiques and galleries, and King Street for jewelry and handicrafts.

One of the most widely used areas for shop seekers is the city's internal pedway system, a climate-controlled walkway sprawling with shops and restaurants, open year-round.

Besides specialty shops, Saint John has a number of fine galleries located throughout the city. Several times throughout the year, they offer gallery hops where you can visit a number of galleries in one night. The Saint John Arts Centre features ongoing exhibits and workshops. http://www.saintjohnartscentre.com.

Shopping Hours: Generally, stores in the uptown area are open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm (until 8 pm on Thursday and Friday). Stores open on Sunday around Christmas and on most cruise-ship days.

Antique Stores

Tim Isaac Antiques and Auctions 213 Wentworth St. This shop arguably carries the best selection of antiques in southern Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada New Brunswick, including Depression glass, fine English bone china, figurines and tableware. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-4 pm. 213 E2L 2T4 Wentworth St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-3222. http://timisaac.com. Phone: 506-652-3222 http://timisaac.com

Inprint, UNBSJ Book Store 100 Tucker Park Road This is a great store for browsing general interest books about everything from local history to craft ideas. We love the varsity sweaters Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada that are made to keep you warm during chilly Canadian winters. E2L4L5 Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4 pm. 100 Tucker Park Road, Saint John. Phone: 506-648-5540 Phone 506-648-5540. https://www.bkstr.com/newbrunswickstjohnstore. https://www.bkstr.com/newbrunswickstjohnstore

The New Brunswick Museum & Book Shop 1 Market Square This is a bibliophile's paradise with an excellent selection of local books, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada including the hot picks of the local independent booksellers' association. Open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday 9 am-5 pm; Thursday 9 am-9 E2L 4Z6 pm; Saturday 10 am-5 pm; Sunday noon-5 pm. Open Monday during Phone: 506-643-2300 the summer and in December. 1 Market Square, Saint John. Phone http://www.nbm-mnb.ca 506-643-2300. Toll-free 888-268-9595. http://www.nbm-mnb.ca.

Handworks Gallery 12 King St. You can easily recognize this shop by its colorful window displays. Handworks is the maritime artisan's ambassador to the rest of the world. Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada The gallery sells original works, 90% of which are made in New E2L 1G2 Brunswick, including jewelry, blown glass, silk, woodturning, painting, Phone: 506-652-9787 sculpture and much more. Shows are held on a regular basis and give http://www.handworks.ca artisans a chance to mingle with those interested in purchasing their work. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-4 pm. 12 King St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-9787. http://www.handworks.ca.

Hayward and Warwick 85 Princess St. This venerable shop, housed in a heritage building and boasting uninterrupted business since 1855, is the place to find collectibles, fine Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada china and even charming trinkets for friends back home. The staff is E2L 1K5 extremely knowledgeable, and there's a fun, free china museum just Phone: 506-653-9066 inside the doors. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5 pm. 85 Princess St., http://www.haywardandwarwick.com Saint John. Phone 506-653-9066. http://www.haywardandwarwick.com.

Trinity Galleries 128 Germain St. Located in an elegantly restored 1800s property, this gallery features maritime fine artists on both of its two floors and two shop fronts. You'll Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada also enjoy an interesting sampling from fine-craft artists as well. Artists E2L 2E7 are often on-site, but it's best to check ahead if you're counting on Phone: 506-634-1611 meeting a celebrity. Tuesday-Friday 10 am-3 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 http://www.trinitygalleries.ca pm. 128 Germain St., Saint John. Phone 506-634-1611. http://www.trinitygalleries.ca.

Old City Market 47 Charlotte St. This National Historic site is covered with what appears to be the Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada upside-down hull of a huge ship. Designed in an architectural competition in 1874, it is a tribute to the city's shipbuilding past. It is E2L-2H8 Canada's oldest charter market and is usually teeming with a vast Phone: 506-658-2820 assortment of merchants hawking their wares—fishmongers, butchers, http://www.sjcitymarket.ca sausage-makers, dulse vendors and more. It's the place to buy a historic streetscape etching or watercolor painting from a local artist. You'll also find purveyors of locally produced honey and foodstuffs as well as craftspeople working with leather, painters dabbling in oils and— in the middle of it all—buskers performing for tips. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-6 pm, Saturday-7:30 am-5 pm. 47 Charlotte St. (one block north of King Street, between Germain and Charlotte streets), Saint John. Phone 506-658-2820. http://www.sjcitymarket.ca.

Saint John offers an eclectic mix of traditional retail shopping, unique local businesses and, of course, the wonderful city market. Germain, Canterbury and King streets are populated by distinct stores that offer an exciting variety of fresh food (baked goods, produce and just-caught fish), locally made crafts and unusual items you won't find anywhere else. Across the street, Brunswick Square Mall caters to those who want to shop at national chains.

Saint John has eight commercial shopping centers. Brunswick Square and Market Square are both uptown and linked to the outside shops via the pedway system. Lansdowne Place is in the north end of the city, Lancaster Mall is on the west side, and McAllister Place is in the east side with Parkway Mall.

Brunswick Square 39 King St. This three-level shopping complex boasts a large selection of stores under one roof. You can find everything from books and CDs to Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada educational toys and kayaks. About half the stores are locally owned E2L 4W3 and operated, and half are national stores. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 Phone: 506-658-1000 pm. 39 King St. (on the corner of Germain Street), Saint John. Phone http://www.brunswicksquare.ca 506-658-1000. http://www.brunswicksquare.ca.

East Point Shopping 11 E. Point Way When a mall is surrounded by streets named Retail Drive, Fashion Drive and Depot Court, you know you have hit the shopper's jackpot. This is Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada big-box with big names—Indigo Books, clothing retail chain Le Chateau E2J 0H6 and more. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. 11 E. Phone: 506-634-5711 Point Way, Saint John. Phone 506-634-5711. http://www.eastpointshopping.ca http://www.eastpointshopping.ca.

Market Square 1 Market Square This giant facility houses the New Brunswick Museum, the Saint John Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Free Public Library and the Visitor Information Centre. Market Square also boasts a food court and a few unique shops, including restaurants, E2L 4Z6 clothing stores, a magazine store, crafts, the museum gift store and home decorating stores. Daily 6 am-2 am. 1 Market Square, Saint John. Phone: 506-658-3600 Phone 506-658-3600. http://www.marketsquaresj.com. http://www.marketsquaresj.com

McAllister Place 519 Westmorland Road With more than 110 stores and services, this mall is one of the largest in Atlantic Canada. Find Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, Sears, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Sobeys, Bluenotes and more. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday Phone: 506-649-4949 noon-5 pm. 519 Westmorland Road, Saint John. Phone 506-649-4949. http://www.mcallisterplace.ca http://www.mcallisterplace.ca.

Alcool N.B. Liquor Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada In New Brunswick, liquor, beer and wine can be purchased only in government-accredited stores. The legal drinking age is 19. There are E3B 5B8 four liquor stores in Saint John: Parkway Mall, Saint John East; Fairville Phone: 506-452-6826 Boulevard, Saint John West; Lansdowne Place, Saint John North; Prince https://www.anbl.com Edward Square and King Street, Saint John Centre. For more information on individual hours and directions, visit the website. Phone 506-452-6826. https://www.anbl.com.

Backstreet Records 124 Germain St. Looking for rare or vintage recordings? Regardless of what you're Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada looking for, Backstreet Records will either have it or will go the extra mile to help you find it. We love that it puts as much stock in vintage as it E2L 2E7 does new and indie music. Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm, Thursday Phone: 506-693-9425 and Friday 10:30 am-6 pm. 124 Germain St., Saint John. Phone 506- http://backstreetrecords.blogspot.com 693-9425. http://backstreetrecords.blogspot.com.

Freak Lunchbox 18 King St. You will feel like a grown-up kid in a candy store at this colorful King Street shop. It stocks pop-culture gifts and a mix of unique edible sweets Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada from around the world. Walk in just to see the colorful displays. Monday- E2L 1G2 Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm in summer; Monday- Phone: 506-632-0014 Thursday 10 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon- http://www.freaklunchbox.com 5 pm in winter. 18 King St., Saint John. Phone 506-632-0014. http://www.freaklunchbox.com.

Je Suis Prest Brunswick Square, Second Floor This women's clothing store is a local option for casual and pretty Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada fashions and accessories. The young owner stocks only a few pieces of each item, so there's a lovely variety of fresh styles. Monday- E2L4W3 Wednesday and Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday 9:30 am-8 Phone: 506-632-0400 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Brunswick Square, Second Floor, Brunswick http://jesuisprest.ca Square, Level 2, Saint John. Phone 506-632-0400. http://jesuisprest.ca.

L'il Shop of Science 39 King St. For those looking to add some education to their visit to Saint John, this is the perfect store. It's locally owned and operated and features many Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada different toys designed to encourage learning and exploration. The E2L 4W3 owners work right in the store and are happy to offer advice. Open Phone: 506-632-1127 Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday and Friday till 8 pm. 39 King https://www.facebook.com/LilShopOfScience St., Brunswick Square, Saint John. Phone 506-632-1127. https://www.facebook.com/LilShopOfScience.

Secondspin Saint John 535 Westmorland Road You could spend hours there, thanks to its fantastic selection of new and Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada used vinyl, and not-so-organized filing system. But that's the fun of a music store, right? CDs, 45s and collectibles, such as posters, action e2j 3t3 figures and comic books. Monday-Friday 11 am-8 pm, Saturday 11 am- Phone: 506-636-9886 6 pm. 535 Westmorland Road, Saint John. Phone 506-636-9886. https://www.facebook.com/secondspin- https://www.facebook.com/secondspin-saint-john-142078072508064. saint-john-142078072508064

The Feel Good Store 89 Germain St. This quirky wellness store pampers both body and soul. Scented Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada candles, handmade soaps, yoga mats, herbal teas and even hammocks are available for purchase. The herbal tea bar, with a relaxing seating Phone: 506-657-6249 area in the rear of the store, is one of the uptown area's hidden http://thefeelgoodstore.wordpress.com pleasures. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-5:15 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. 89 Germain St., Saint John. Phone 506-657-6249. http://thefeelgoodstore.wordpress.com.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To St. Martins. Several sea captains' large homes have been converted into inns in this pretty seaside village on the Bay of Fundy, an easy 35-mi/56-km trip from Saint John. Drive to the highest point in the village (just past the St. Martins Inn) for a view of Quaco Bay, Old Pejepscot Wharf, the lighthouse and two covered bridges. (St. Martins is the only place in the province where you can take a photo of two covered bridges in one shot.) It also has a huge cave alleged to hold pirates' treasure. An hour north of St. Martins, just beyond Sussex, you can drive through 16 covered bridges in one day.

Also near St. Martins is the Fundy Trail Parkway, which runs along one of the last truly remote stretches of Atlantic coastline. It includes sheer forested cliffs and wave-swept stone beaches along a 10-mi/16-km trail. Make sure to cross the suspension footbridge over the waters of the Big Salmon River. There's no public transportation to the area, so if you want to go, you'll need to rent a car or contact one of the local tour companies.

To Gagetown. The village of Gagetown and the surrounding area, about 38 mi/60 km from Saint John, were settled in the 1760s. Villagers were known for their support of the American colonies against the British crown. One local resident, Jonathan Hartt, was tried for treason in Gagetown for uttering threats against the king of England. Today Gagetown is a peaceful place, known for its large military base, its scenic country inns, the Queen's County Museum and its talented artisans. Stop by the Gagetown Cider Company, where owners Blair and Brenda Stirling (a descendant of Jonathan Hartt) serve up their homemade cider. Return by taking the Gagetown-Jemseg Cable Ferry.

To Deer Island or Campobello. Just an hour from Saint John are the East Coast Ferries to Deer Island. From Deer Island you can travel to Campobello, where President Roosevelt and his wife Eleanor used to vacation. Or explore the unique communities on Deer Island, a small island of 1,000 people focused on fishing and seafood. Great opportunities for photos await at every turn. Check out the lobster pounds and salmon aquaculture pens, or try fishing for yourself. It's a great spot for hiking or bike riding.

For solo walking tours, be sure to pick up one of the self-guided tour brochures from the Visitor Information Centre at Market Square. The four tours (Prince William's Walk, the Loyalist Trail, the West Side Walk and Drive, and the Victorian Stroll) will give you a real sense of the history and character of the city. Bay Ferries Ltd. 170 Digby Ferry Road Take a trip to Digby, Nova Scotia, on the Princess of Acadia—a car ferry. While you are onboard, you'll learn about the marine mammals, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada sea birds and tides of the Bay of Fundy. You can even use your laptop. E2M 0B2 Sails once daily during winter months and one to two times daily during Phone: 506-649-7777 high season. Trip lasts three hours. Fares vary depending on whether http://www.ferries.ca you're walking on board or transporting your car, but high-season walk- on traffic (round-trip) is Can$63 adults, Can$43 children ages 6-13, Can$10 children younger than 6. 170 Digby Ferry Road, Saint John. Phone 506-649-7777. Toll-free 888-762-7245. http://www.ferries.ca.

Freedom Tours 80 Charlotte St. Based in Saint John, this company specializes in highlighting the beauty of specific areas of the province. If you want to explore historic St. Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Andrews or discover the arts-and-crafts community near Saint John, it's E2L 2J3 available to show you around. Fundy Coast to Fundy Shore is its most popular tour, providing a photographer's dream of quaint scenery, Phone: 506-632-1012 lighthouses, covered bridges and a chance to walk on the ocean floor. http://www.freedomtours.com 80 Charlotte St., Saint John. Phone 506-632-1012. Toll-free 800-561- 2324. http://www.freedomtours.com.

Go Fundy Events 712 Dominion Park Road From a lobster cookout and kayaking to a sunset paddle pub crawl, Go Fundy Events is the outfitter you're looking for. We love that its Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada programs are diverse, challenging and full of good old-fashioned E2M 4Y8 maritime fun. It also offers group getaway vacations. Prices depend Phone: 506-672-0770 upon the season and the event. 712 Dominion Park Road, Saint John. http://insideoutnaturecentre.com/go- Phone 506-672-0770. Toll-free 866-672-0770. http://insideoutnaturecentre.com/go-fundy-events-1. fundy-events-1

MV Voyageur II 2050 Westfield Road Travel the historic St. John and Kennebecasis rivers on the MV Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Voyageur II riverboat—a vessel with two decks. You'll need at least 30 people to rent this boat, and the price per person decreases with the E2M 6H2 number of passengers onboard. Or join a public cruise on the third Phone: 506-738-8484 Sunday of the month during the summer. Can$30-$32 adults. 2050 http://www.grand-isle- Westfield Road, Saint John. Phone 506-738-8484. http://www.grand- isle-royale.com/vessels.asp. royale.com/vessels.asp

Rockwood Carriages Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada This company arranges city tours by horse-drawn carriage. The horses are brought from Rockwood Park to meet you at the city center, or you E2L 4A5 can tour the park. Reservations are highly recommended. Carriage Phone: 506-633-7659 rides for up to four passengers last one hour, and the fee is Can$80. http://www.horsesinsaintjohn.com City tour trolley rides for up to 14 passengers are available for Can$226, and Wagon Rides in Rockwood Park are Can$105 for 14 people. Phone 506-633-7659. http://www.horsesinsaintjohn.com.

Saint John Adventures 50 Fallsview Ave. This outdoor-adventure company offers the experience of ziplining along the St. John River and past the Reversing Falls. There are five zip Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada lines in total, and a full tour lasts one to two hours. Participants must E2K 0G8 weigh 70-270 lb/32-122 kg. Can$60 adults, Can$50 children and Phone: 506-634-9477 seniors. 50 Fallsview Ave., Saint John. Phone 506-634-9477. Toll-free http://www.saintjohnadventures.ca 877-634-9477. http://www.saintjohnadventures.ca.

Saint John Transit Tours Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Two-hour citywide bus tours with commentary depart twice daily (only on cruise ship days June-October), with various pickup times and E2J 0C7 locations available. Reservations are not available, and the driver can Phone: 506-658-4700 only take cash. Can$20 adults, Can$10 children ages 6-15, free for children age 5 and younger. Phone 506-658-4700.

To help you make the most of your time in Saint John, we've designed two different itineraries. PLAN A

Historic Shop and Stroll

This walking-and-shopping trek will take you past many of the beautiful buildings constructed after the fire of 1877. Start at the foot of Prince William Street (the far south). There you'll see a unique iron lamp called The Three Sisters—it has guided sailors since 1848. Walk north to 124 Prince William St. and look for a carving of a demon (at the top right of the entrance). You could duck into a nearby pub for a quick Moosehead beer—and say the devil made you do it—or walk farther north to 111 Prince William St., where you'll find more intriguing carvings above the third-floor windows. (The man in the hat is Henry Chubb, who once owned the building. Next to him is Sylvester Z. Earle, who was mayor while the city was rebuilding after the 1877 fire.)

Then turn west toward Market Square. Peruse the imported china at Hayward and Warwick in the square—if you find something you can't live without, they'll ship it for you.

Enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the restaurants in Market Square, or on the waterfront boardwalk. If it's a fine-weather day, stroll up King Street to Germain Street. Turn right, and you'll find yourself on Quality Block, so-named because it was the place to find the highest-quality goods at the end of the 19th century. One of the original landmarks, Bustin's Fine Furniture, operates in its original location after nearly 100 years in business. You'll pass the exclusive Union Club at 123 Germain St. (where women had to petition to gain admittance) on your way to some of the most elegant homes built after the 1877 fire.

Be sure to look for the colored doors at the corner of Germain and Duke streets. This "language of the doors" tradition came from Irish immigrants in the 1840s. Different colors have different meanings. For instance, red means "welcome," black means the family is in mourning, and blue means there is a daughter of a suitable age for marriage. Notice the elaborate doorplates and knobs at numbers 179 and 211 Germain St. Check out the brick residence at 210-212 Germain St., which displays intricately worked doors and railings, as well as stone gargoyles (they aren't just decorative—their open mouths drain water from the roof).

PLAN B

Exploring the Fundy Coast

Pick up a rental car, then stop by the City Market to gather provisions for a grand picnic. (Don't forget to pick up a package of dulse.) Head east from Saint John toward the village of St. Martins, about an hour's drive. Spend some time exploring the village by walking around the harbor, strolling on Mac's Beach and photographing the covered bridges.

Continue east, and you'll come to the Fundy Trail Parkway. Drive the road along the clifftops, and stretch your legs on one of the many hiking trails. Camping is available if you want to spend more time exploring the scenic area.

Return to Saint John the way you came. If time and tides permit (and you haven't already been there at least twice to see the different directions), visit the Reversing Falls.

DINING

Dining Overview

Some of the tastiest lobster in the world comes from the ice-cold waters of the Bay of Fundy. Fresh clams, scallops, haddock and salmon are also plentiful. Choose from one of many restaurants in the area and wash all that seafood down with a Moosehead beer, brewed locally. Early in the spring, also try fiddleheads (ferns picked before they've unfurled). They're usually served steamed, with melted butter and cider vinegar.

Dulse is a seaweed picked off the rocks in the Bay of Fundy at extreme low tide. Dried and eaten as a snack, it provides vitamins and minerals, although its crispy texture soon turns gelatinous—definitely an acquired taste. Give it a try, but don't overdo it—it's a natural laxative.

One of the best culinary experiences in Saint John is wandering the three food aisles of the City Market on Charlotte Street. You can choose from fish and lobster chowders, fish-and-chips, country soups, freshly baked rolls, locally cured cheese, fresh pasta and German sausages. When you've got just the right combination, retreat to the atrium to enjoy your meal. Watch out for the park pigeons—when the doors open, they sneak in and jump on the tables for their share of good eating.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than Can$15; $$ = Can$15-$25; $$$ = Can$26-$40; and $$$$ = more than Can$40.

Lily's Bistro 55 Lake Drive S. Located on Lily Lake, this place offers tremendous views. If you visit in the summer, be sure to get a table on the patio. There's a roaring fire Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada inside to make your meal a cozy experience in cold weather, too. E2K 5S3 Burgers, sandwiches, lobster rolls and potpies are surefire bets. Phone: 506-693-5033 Monday-Thursday 11 am-9 pm, Friday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday and http://www.lilylake.ca/lilyscafe.html Sunday 9 am-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 55 Lake Drive S., Saint John. Phone 506-693-5033. http://www.lilylake.ca/lilyscafe.html.

Urban Deli 68 King St. Old-fashioned and sophisticated, this deli features home-style food, including meats smoked in-house. Find all your deli favorites including Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Montreal smoked meat and Reubens, but also indulge in fresh soup, E2L 1G4 veggie sandwiches, ribs, pasta and salads. Or go on Saturday morning Phone: 506-652-3354 for a wide range of breakfast offerings, and on select evenings for Italian http://www.urbandeli.ca specialties. Take advantage of free Wi-Fi while you dine. Monday- Saturday 11:45 am-3 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 68 King St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-3354. http://www.urbandeli.ca.

American

Bourbon Quarters 112 Prince William St. A taste of New Orleans in Saint John. This place features southern favorites such as ribs, gumbo and jambalaya. Tuesday-Thursday 8 am- Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada 11 pm, Friday 8 am-midnight, Saturday 9 am-midnight, Sunday 9 am-8 E2L 2B3 pm. Reservations available. $$-$$$. 112 Prince William St., Saint John. Phone: 506-642-1885 Phone 506-642-1885. http://www.bourbonquartersj.com. http://www.bourbonquartersj.com

Lemongrass 1 Market Square This popular Thai spot is located on the Historic Saint John Boardwalk. Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada A heated patio keeps the cool breezes at bay. Lots of vegetarian options —the pad thai is highly recommended. Monday-Wednesday 11:30 am- E2L 4Z6 midnight, Thursday-Sunday 11:30 am-2 am. Reservations available. $- Phone: 506-657-8424 $$. 1 Market Square, Saint John. Phone 506-657-8424. http://lemongrasssaintjohn.com http://lemongrasssaintjohn.com.

Splash Thai Cuisine 419 Rothesay Ave. Perhaps a more fitting moniker is spice Thai cuisine—we couldn't get enough of the heat in our eggplant curry, made with coconut milk and Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada chicken, shrimp or beef. If you're not a heat seeker, try your choice of E2J 2C4 meat in the sweet noodle stir fry, made with broccoli and rice noodles. Phone: 506-214-6555 Tuesday-Thursday 4-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 4-10 pm, Sunday 4- http://www.splashthaicuisine.com 8 pm. Reservations available. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 419 Rothesay Ave., Saint John. Phone 506-214-6555. http://www.splashthaicuisine.com.

Thandi 33 Canterbury St. This modern dining room in an 1878 heritage building serves made-to- order helpings of Indian curries, Thai noodles and Atlantic seafood. It's Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada also one of the few late-night dining rooms in the city. Sit at the central, E2L 2C6 copper-topped communal table that's great for meeting your neighbors. Phone: 506-648-2377 Monday-Wednesday 11 am-10 pm, Thursday 11 am-11 pm, Friday 11 http://www.singhdining.com am-midnight, Saturday 4 pm-midnight, Sunday 4-10 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$-$$$. 33 Canterbury St., Saint John. Phone 506-648-2377. http://www.singhdining.com.

Decimal 81 81 Princess St. This French restaurant features five- and seven-course tasting menus crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. Decorated with warm Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada buttery tones, heritage wood and historic prints, the dining room is at E2L 1K5 once casual and romantic. Besides a select wine menu, there's also a Phone: 506-642-8181 good selection of premium cocktails. Daily 5-10 pm. Reservations http://www.decimal81.ca available. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 81 Princess St., Saint John. Phone 506-642-8181. http://www.decimal81.ca.

Vito's 2 Peel Plaza Pizza, pasta and the trademark Caesar chicken salad—these are just a few items this Saint John institution offers on its varied menu. See for Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada yourself why this restaurant is a favorite among locals and visitors. Phone: 506-634-3900 There are other locations at 324 Rothesay Ave. (Saint John East) and http://www.vitos.ca 111 Hampton Road (Rothesay). Monday-Wednesday 11 am-9:30 pm, Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11:30 pm, Sunday 4-9 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 2 Peel Plaza (uptown), Saint John. Phone 506-634-3900. http://www.vitos.ca.

Taco Pica 96 Germain St. This Saint John favorite was started by several immigrants from Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Guatemala and features authentic Mexican and Latin American food. Expect a relaxed atmosphere, super food, great value and terrific live E2L 2E7 music on Friday and Saturday nights. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm. Phone: 506-633-8492 Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 96 Germain http://www.tacopica.ca St., Saint John. Phone 506-633-8492. http://www.tacopica.ca.

Mediterranean Restaurant 419 Rothesay Ave. This is a place to put up your feet, stay a while and have some fun. Try Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada the house specials including grilled liver, moussaka and souvlaki. Monday 11 am-8 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-8 E2J 1C3 pm. Reservations available. $-$$. 419 Rothesay Ave., Saint John. Phone: 506-634-3183 Phone 506-634-3183. http://www.medrestaurant.com. http://www.medrestaurant.com

Cafes & Tearooms

The Infusion Tea Room 41 Charlotte St. You'll find savory chowders, mouthwatering scones, sweet desserts and, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada of course, the most flavors of tea this side of China. By reservation, it also offers a high tea with all the trimmings: fine bone china, proper E2L 2H7 linens and delicate sweets. Monday-Saturday from 8 am. $-$$$. 41 Phone: 506-693-8327 Charlotte St. (top of the City Market), Saint John. Phone 506-693-8327. https://www.facebook.com/infusiontearoom https://www.facebook.com/infusiontearoom.

Java Moose 84 Prince William St. Chocolate peanut butter coffee? If you like a flavored cup of Joe, this is Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada the place for you. It sources green Arabica beans and roasts them in small batches. Pick from three dozen flavored syrups—or you can enjoy Phone: 506-657-7283 an unsweetened brew, too. Monday-Friday 7 am-5 pm, Saturday 8 am- http://www.javamoose.com 3 pm, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. 84 Prince William St., Saint John. Phone 506- 657-7283. http://www.javamoose.com.

Billy's Seafood Co. 49-51 Charlotte St. No visit to the city would be complete without a stop at this seafood joint. This restaurant features an oyster bar as well as a fish market for those Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada who would rather cook their own dinner. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 E2L 2H7 pm, Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday 9 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major Phone: 506-672-3474 credit cards. 49-51 Charlotte St. (at the head of the City Market), Saint http://www.billysseafood.com John. Phone 506-672-3474. Toll-free 888-933-3474. http://www.billysseafood.com. Church Street Steakhouse 10 Grannan St. Expect some of the best premium aged beef in the city. Try one of the Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada dry rubs. Sunday-Tuesday 4-10 pm, Wednesday 11:30 am-10 pm, Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-1:30 pm and NB E2L 4 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$$. Most major credit Phone: 506-648-2373 cards. 10 Grannan St., Saint John. Phone 506-648-2373. http://grannangroup.com http://grannangroup.com.

SECURITY

Personal Safety

Saint John is a safe, walkable city, but like all cities, it has some petty crime. Visitors should use common sense to prevent any potential problems: Be aware of your surroundings, leave your valuables at home and keep an eye on your handbag or wallet. Always lock your vehicle or hotel room, and don't venture into poorly lit streets or parking lots unaccompanied. Always carry a cell phone with you. Medical attention can be obtained at St. Joseph's Medical/Surgical Hospital Services at 130 Bayard Drive. The urgent care center is open daily 9 am-9 pm. Phone 506-632-5555.

Saint John is home to a major tertiary care and teaching hospital, the Saint John Regional Hospital, which also offers a fully staffed emergency department 24 hours a day. The hospital is located at 400 University Ave. Phone 506-648-6000.

In case of an emergency, dial 911.

Most of Saint John's venues, such as the airport, museum and government buildings across the city, are barrier-free with the exception of some of the older, privately run buildings. The Saint John Ability Advisory Committee is available for accessibility inquiries. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Phone 506-658-4709.

HANDI-BUS is an accessible transit system serving people with mobility impairments or special needs, and seniors unable to utilize the regular public-transit system. It covers the Saint John city limits. The service operates Monday-Friday 7 am-7 pm (Tuesday and Thursday until 10 pm), Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Weekend service available for contract rates. Reservations requested 48 hours in advance if possible.

Priority is given to passengers in wheelchairs and for employment, educational purposes, medical appointments and day programs. Individual one-way trips within city limits Can$5. Phone 506-648-0609.

Many city buses have a low entry allowing wheelchairs to board. Call to check if your bus will have that feature. Phone 506-658- 4700.

Do take one of the little ferries operated by the New Brunswick government. The few minutes they take to cross the river hearken back to an earlier time. Also look for one of the many covered—or kissing—bridges located between Saint John and Sussex. There are 61 scattered throughout the province.

Don't feel shy about asking any local to assist you. Residents take delight in sharing their city and often will lead you to some quaint shop, special restaurant or little-known garden. (Never offer a tip.)

Don't be surprised if Canadian beer is stronger than you expect.

Do buckle up—provincial law requires it. You are also required by law to keep children who weigh less than 79 lb/36 kg, are shorter than 57 in/145 cm and are younger than age 9 in a certified safety restraint while traveling by car. Visitors traveling through the province are not exempt, so be prepared.

Don't be quick on the trigger. Canada has very strict gun-control laws: No revolvers, pistols or fully automatic firearms are allowed. It's strict, too, about having the proper licenses in hand before you go hunting or fishing.

Do eat the daily catch at Billy's; it's the local favorite and locals don't lie. Don't be surprised if you experience extremes of weather in a short period. Be careful driving in the winter—roads can become ice-packed and hazardous, and you should carry extra warm clothing with you. Call ahead for local road conditions. In summer, plan to dress in warm layers and take both sun protection and insect repellent—West Nile virus is an unpleasant reality in the Atlantic Provinces.

Do consult local newspapers and radio stations for tide information. To see the full effect of slack tide at the Reversing Falls, remember to arrive a half-hour before the tide changes.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. To enter Canada, U.S. citizens can also present passport cards or NEXUS cards as documentation. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Population: 70,063.

Languages: English, some French.

Predominant Religions: Predominantly Christian (Protestant and Roman Catholic), although other major religions are represented.

Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 506, area code;

Currency Exchange

There are branches of most major Canadian banks along King Street in the center of the city, and all of them have ATMs. Most major credit cards, traveler's checks and U.S. dollars are accepted at shops and restaurants. Change is always given in Canadian dollars, and the current exchange rate is usually applied, although some take U.S. dollars at par.

Bank hours vary by bank and branch. Most are open daily except Sunday, with extended hours at least a couple days a week.

The HST (Harmonized Sales Tax), which includes the GST (Goods and Services Tax), is 13% and is applied to purchases. In addition, the Saint John Hotel Association taxes hotel rooms 2%; the revenue generated is used to improve tourism-related venues and activities and for destination marketing. Tip 15% in restaurants, unless superior service warrants more. An easy way to calculate the tip is to use the tax as your amount (go to 20% if the service was outstanding). Round up taxi fares. Service providers (bellhops, hairdressers, taxi drivers) also expect a 15% gratuity. Customary tip for tour guides and motor-coach drivers is Can$1-$2 per day, per person.

Weather

Saint John is located on the Bay of Fundy, so days can be surprisingly brisk, even in summer (54-70 F/12-21 C). Many travelers are surprised by how cool the wind feels, even though the temperature is warm. Occasional fog lends the city some atmosphere and makes it even cooler. Fog moves in fast and can take you by surprise in any season, although it happens most often in spring and summer. Expect cool temperatures in the summer and always, always pack rain gear. Autumn usually brings pleasant weather until about mid-October, when things become chilly and damp. It isn't likely to snow until late December, but spring doesn't return until May.

Casual wear is welcome in Saint John year-round, but it's still customary to wear a jacket or traditional business attire for first-time business meetings.

Because of Saint John's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, a small change in wind direction can bring fog and cool winds. For touring, good sneakers will serve you well on the brick sidewalks, which can be rough in places and slippery when wet. Dress in layers. A sweater or pullover is always a good addition, and a rainproof jacket is likely to come in handy.

Although the thermometer may call for short sleeves, cool Atlantic breezes can make the air feel colder. Fall weather is cool but often pleasant. In winter, be prepared for freezing rain and icy sidewalks.

On the streets, you'll see a wide range of attire from stiletto heels to punk rock, but most people keep it casual in New Brunswick. Leather is a wardrobe staple in the Atlantic provinces, and boots are a fashion (and survival) necessity during the winter months. No matter what season, think layers when packing for Saint John. Even at the peak of humidity in summer, nights often cool off enough to warrant a sweater or light jacket.

Sweaters are often worn in place of a sportcoat, but a tie should still be visible at the neck when visiting upscale establishments. Some places still have a "no running shoes, no jeans" policy in effect, so call ahead if that's a concern. Very few restaurants have formal dress codes, but social convention mandates at least a collared dress shirt in fine-dining establishments.

If you're traveling in the winter, be sure to pack a toque and mittens to go with your boots. Don't have any? Pick up a Canadian- made toque when you arrive—they're the warmest in the world.

Telephone

Depending on your service provider and your coverage, cell phone service is widely available across the city. Roaming charges are likely to apply, depending on your plan. Contact your cell phone company for options—most will offer a fairly economical add- on for international or national calling minutes. Most importantly, don't wait until you arrive back home to check the policies: the cell phone provider will have already applied roaming charges.

To call anywhere within New Brunswick, you must dial 10 digits (an area code and a seven-digit number). Toll-free numbers begin with 800, 866, 888 or 877. Directory assistance is 411; emergency is 911.

The city has installed Wi-Fi hot spots in the downtown area between King's Square and Market Square. Saint John has free Wi-Fi in many areas of the Inside Connection Pedway and uptown Saint John. Cruise ship visitors often sit in Brunswick Square Shopping Centre, the Marco Polo Cruise Terminal or Market Square Mall to access the Internet.

Java Moose is a local Internet cafe with three Saint John locations that brew locally roasted coffee (http://www.javamoose.com). There are also a few Starbucks locations in Brunswick Square and at the East Point Shopping Centre. For lunch with your Wi-Fi, try Opera Bistro or Magnolia Cafe.

Most of the downtown hotels offer both in-room high-speed Internet access and fully equipped business centers with computer access. Many restaurants and bed-and-breakfasts also have Internet access.

Saint John Free Public Library 1 Market Square The library has long held a reputation as one of the finest around. There are books and other reference materials for all ages, specialized Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada children's programming, and some beautiful stained-glass windows and E2L 4Z6 artwork on display. The library offers free Internet access. Friday- Phone: 506-643-7220 Tuesday 10 am-5 pm; Wednesday and Thursday 10 am-9 pm. 1 Market http://www.saintjohnlibrary.com Square, Saint John. Phone 506-643-7220. http://www.saintjohnlibrary.com.

Post Office 39 King St. The uptown post office is at Brunswick Square inside Lawtons Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada Drugstore. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm. 39 King St., Saint John. Phone 506-652-4956. http://www.canadapost.ca. E2L 4W0 Phone: 506-652-4956 http://www.canadapost.ca The local newspaper is the Saint John Telegraph-Journal, which is owned by J.K. Irving. Tourism Saint John publishes a handy Official Visitor's Guide (free), which has a listing of year-round events in the city.

For a calendar of events, visit http://www.tourismsaintjohn.com.

Also check out Here, a free newspaper available in all urban centers; it includes nightlife, restaurant and entertainment listings.

Transportation

Although you can walk everywhere in central Saint John (if you can manage the hills), you'll need transportation to reach attractions elsewhere. Major rental-car companies maintain branches downtown and at the airport. Cabdrivers charge about Can$10-$15 for rides to the most popular attractions—Reversing Falls, Martello Tower, the Irving Nature Park and Rockwood Park.

City buses also run through town and to many tourist attractions. Fares are Can$2.75 for adults age 15 and older, Can$2.50 for seniors and children ages 6-14. One child younger than 5 may ride free per adult. Pass cards worth 10 or 20 rides may also be purchased at a discounted rate. The Saint John Transit Authority also provides tours and transportation for groups. Phone 506- 658-4700. http://www.saintjohntransit.com.

The Inside Connection—also called the pedway—is one way to negotiate downtown. You can travel from the Hilton Hotel all the way to the Canada Games Aquatic Centre and TD Station without having to go outside. It connects you to the Brunswick Square Mall, the City Market, the Free Public Library, Delta Brunswick Hotel and points in between.

Note that licensed individuals can drive a car in New Brunswick at age 16; however, you must be 21 years of age to rent a car there. All motorists must carry owner registration and proof of insurance coverage. (The Canadian Non-Resident Inter-Provincial Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card, available from any U.S. insurance company, is accepted as the latter.)

Additional Resources

New Brunswick Book of Everything by Martha Walls.

Along the St. John River by George Fischer.

Scenic Driving Atlantic Canada by Chloe Ernst (Globe Pequot Press).

Tourism Saint John 15 Market Square There are four locations for this service, which provides tourist Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada information, maps and activity brochures. The City Hall location (15 Market Square) is open year-round, and Barbour's General Store, E2L 4L1 Reversing Rapids Restaurant and Highway 1 West centers all operate Phone: 506-658-2990 seasonally. 15 Market Square, Saint John. Phone 506-658-2990. Toll- https://www.discoversaintjohn.com free 866-463-8639. https://www.discoversaintjohn.com.

EVENTS

Calendar

Summertime is festival time in Saint John, with some kind of outdoor event nearly every weekend. The city celebrates Loyalist Day every 18 May with wreath laying, flag raising, tree plantings and parades. Saint John also celebrates the birth of Canada (Canada Day, 1 July), with a waterfront fireworks display.

Other summer favorites include the Sand Sculpture Contest at New River Beach and St. Martins' Old Home Week. The Salty Jam Saint John Festival of Music and Buskers on the Boardwalk Festival are also in July. New Brunswick Day is marked on the first Monday of August as a province-wide holiday. The province's Acadians mark 15 August as Acadian National Day. Summer in Saint John comes to a close with the Atlantic National Exhibition over the Labor Day weekend. Then in fall, there's the Saint John Shakespeare Festival and the Atlantic International Balloon Fiesta in Sussex—a colorful gathering of hot-air balloons.

Christmas is another festive time in the city, with the annual parade through downtown (fourth Saturday in November), the Pioneer Christmas Craft Festival (the oldest of the many pre-Christmas craft fairs in the region, when amateur artisans sell their goods in Brunswick Square) and the mayor's tree-lighting ceremony (late November).

Winterfest, held in mid-February, is a good chance to celebrate the snowy weather with lots of activities for families including snowshoeing, dance parties and a pet fashion show.

As the self-proclaimed "Most Irish City in Canada," Saint John dutifully celebrates St. Patrick's Day (17 March) with a weeklong series of dances, suppers, ceremonies and parades.

For more information on events in Saint John, contact Tourism Saint John. Phone 506-658-2990. Toll-free 866-463-8639. http://www.tourismsaintjohn.com.