INSIDE: NEW DISCOVERIES & OLD FAVORITES IN FRANCE’S REGION + LOS ANGELES BOUTIQUE HOTELS

JUNE 2019 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

Junior Suite terrace at the new Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Champillon

TOURING CHAMPAGNE PROVINCE Sumptuous hotels, stellar restaurants, idyllic countryside, unspoiled towns, cellar tours and tastings

he pop of a Champagne cork signals and several of the country’s best hotels — softened it by adding honey. It wasn’t Tcelebration and promises pleasure. including a superb new one — Champagne until the Benedictine monk Dom Pierre The world’s most joyous drink was born today is a more alluring destination for Pérignon began working with the wines around 350 years ago on the wind-swept oenophiles, gourmets and history buffs of Champagne in 1668 that the drink chalk plains of eastern France. Just than ever before. so prized today was invented. He was 45 minutes east of Paris by high-speed The region first acquired its wine­ the first winemaker to understand that train, the Champagne region has long making vocation when the Romans grapes grown on different plots of land been popular with travelers fascinated by planted vineyards on the rolling slopes could have very different characters, the history and taste of this elegant wine between Durocortorum — the city now a seminal idea that led to the cuvée, or with its signature effervescence. Endowed known as — and Épernay. Their the carefully studied blending of grapes. with a constellation of great restaurants pale-pink wine was highly acidic, so they He also perfected the best technique for

Hideaway Report editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries, please email [email protected]. RIAL: MICHEL JOLYOT MICHEL RIAL: AE

lounge on the first floor, where the high- Sacy is a quiet, friendly and intimate place ceilinged space is furnished with plum in which to relax. Our only misgiving is velvet armchairs, bronze overstuffed that while the young staff members are sofas, potted palms, antique étagères and friendly and eager to please, their service crystal sconces. can be lacking in polish. Our Sun King Suite, and exterior, Château de Sacy, Sacy All rooms at the Château de Sacy are Following an excellent breakfast, we XTERIOR: MICHAËL BOUDOT E 6˚W 3˚W individually decorated. Our spacious0˚ Sun drove to Reims, a charming3˚E and walkable THION ANNE-EMMANUELLE RESTAURANT: AND ROOM 6˚E the méthode champenoise, the second King Suite came with a chandelier, parquet city that lies 20 minutes to the northeast. fermentation that occurs inside the bottle floors, a mirrored writing desk, armchairs, Its cathedral, Notre-Dame de Reims, one on the addition of yeast. an antique armoire and a canopy bed. of the great gothic masterpieces of France, We were in the mood for a flute of The bath provided a large round tub is often known as the royal cathedral, as

6˚W bubbly by the time we arrived at the with a hand-held shower attachment and more than 30 French kings were crowned 12-room Château de Sacy in the charming two sinks set into basalt-topped wooden there. Having visited the cathedral and village of Sacy, which is a five-minute cabinets. (Some other accommodations admired its magnificent stained glass, we drive from the Champagne-Ardenne have walk-in showers.) walked to the adjacent Palais du Tau, the train station. This handsome four-story The hotel’s restaurant, Les Vignes, former home of the archbishops of Reims, 51˚N limestone villa with a steep slate roof and has become popular with locals, which is which has a rich collection of medieval art ROOM PHOTOS: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR fretted wooden eaves is set on a hillside invariably a good sign. There, we enjoyed and surrounded by vineyards. It was an excellent chicken-and-foie-gras pâté built in 1850 for the wealthy Monnesson en croûte with cabbage-and-lentil salad family, textile merchants in Reims, and in white miso sauce, followed by yellow FRANCE 48˚N after extensive renovations, it opened as pollock with caramelized endives with BELGIUM a hotel in June 2017. orange essence and Champagne sauce, and veal with celery root gratin and REIMS The château is part of the Bordeaux- PARIS SACY based Millésime Collection, a new hotel romanesco (green cauliflower) purée. CHAMPILLON ÉPERNAY and restaurant group that specializes in Other amenities at the château include R. small, distinctive properties catering to a small gym, a spa cabin and two wine- CHAMPAGNE independent travelers. Like many of the barrel hot tubs on a terrace overlooking the -ARDENNE company’s hotels, this one was decorated vineyards. Electric bicycles are available SEINE R. by Marie-Christine Meloen, an interior to rent for anyone wanting to visit some designer based in southwestern France. of the local Champagne producers on Her approach is to study the history of a two wheels. building and then use it for inspiration. At Overall, we enjoyed our brief stay. A 0 40 MI stylish country-house hotel rather than the Château de Sacy, Meloen reinvented the 0 40 KM 48˚N plush Napoleon III style in the restaurant- a true luxury property, the Château de

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0˚ 3˚E 6˚E 9˚E and tapestries. We then headed to Racine. shower, double vanities and Hermès the creativity and freshness of our lunch The city’s most talked-about restaurant products. As we settled in, I couldn’t help at Racine, and aside from the charming holds one Michelin star and has an open but reflect that Domaine Les Crayères is sommelier, Martin Jean, formerly of kitchen where Japanese chef Kazuyuki like a genteel time capsule, since it has three-star Maison Troisgros near Roanne Tanaka prepares wonderfully inventive changed so little from our first visit 30 in the Loire, the staff members were not contemporary French dishes with a years ago. In many ways, this sense of always as attentive as one would expect Japanese sensibility. continuity is refreshing in a world driven at a restaurant of this caliber. After lunch, we made our way to by evanescent trends. Here, the old-school Les Crayères is a lovely hotel that offers Domaine Les Crayères, set in a 17-acre codes still prevail, including a cordial but an increasingly rare dose of traditional park on the city’s southern outskirts. An formal style of hospitality. French luxury, but the property needs elegant limestone mansion, it was the However, there can be a downside some fine-tuning and updating, both RIAL: MICHEL JOLYOT MICHEL RIAL:

AE home of the Polignac family until becoming to this. The rigidity of the service we in terms of its hospitality style and the

a 20-room hotel in 1983. Having stayed at experienced during our stay made it interior of the hotel itself. the property many times before, it was hard to actually relax and enjoy the From Les Crayères it was a five-minute a pleasure to pull up once again at the place at times. And the black-and-white drive to Ruinart, which was founded head of the long lawn framed by cedars photographs in the elevator of famous in 1729 and today offers one of the best of Lebanon. Oddly, however, there was chefs in 1980s France were also rather cellar tours in Reims. Everything about no bellhop on duty, so we unloaded our telling, as several of these luminaries are this experience (which must be booked in bags and then parked our car ourselves. deceased and many are now of retirement advance online) was elegant and gracious, Inside, we received a theatrical greeting age. The hotel has stood still in other ways, from the refreshments served while we from the woman at the front desk, who too, with amenities that have come to be waited for everyone in our group of 10 to then propelled us upstairs to our Deluxe standard elsewhere being nowhere to be arrive to the well-spoken young guide who Room. This came with a separate sitting found (an in-room espresso machine, for began the tour with an excellent primer room with wall-to-wall cream carpeting, example). The hotel also has no pool, spa on the history of Champagne, including XTERIOR: MICHAËL BOUDOT E ROOM AND RESTAURANT: ANNE-EMMANUELLE THION ANNE-EMMANUELLE RESTAURANT: AND ROOM an area rug, a writing desk and a sofa. The or gym. The last major innovation at Les an explanation of how its popularity at bedroom contained a baldachin bed and Crayères was the opening of Brasserie Le the French court in Versailles first made a built-in wardrobe. A spacious, well-lit Jardin, the hotel’s second restaurant, in it fashionable. bath provided a separate tub and walk-in an outbuilding on the property in 2009. From Reims it was a 30-minute drive On our way to dinner downstairs at to Champillon, a village on a hillside Clockwise from top: Le Parc restaurant, aerial view, and room, Domaine Les Crayères, Reims chef Philippe Mille’s Michelin two-star overlooking Épernay and the location Le Parc restaurant, we also noticed that of the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, in the long corridor leading to the elevator which was once a coaching inn where the the Brussels carpet was worn. We had a kings of France would stay en route to very good meal at Le Parc, but it lacked their coronation in Reims. ROOM PHOTOS: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR

JUNE 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 The breathtaking views over the floors. A huge glass wall allows views of bream with artichokes. At Le Royal, the vineyards surrounding Épernay were the vineyards. Michelin one-star gastronomic table, we what convinced an American couple, Paris-based designer Sybille de opted for the five-course Signature Menu, Denise Dupré and her husband, Mark Margerie’s look for the accommodations which began with crabmeat dressed with Nunnelly, founders of the Boston-based is contemporary but cozy, with lots of blond makrut lime and garnished with caviar, Champagne Hospitality Group, to acquire oak and a mostly taupe and Champagne followed by turbot with seaweed butter, the 49-room Royal Champagne in 2014. color scheme punctuated by a few splashes artichokes and baby carrots, and veal The couple already had a deep knowledge of color. All rooms come with built-in sweetbreads with chorizo and a fricassee of the region as owners of the Leclerc oak wardrobes. Baths are limestone- and of girolle mushrooms. Our meal was Briant Champagne house, and they saw oak-paneled, with double vanities sculpted delicious, and we very much enjoyed the that this historic property could become from a single block of limestone, and wine suggestions of the amiable sommelier, truly spectacular with investment and a provide soaking tubs, separate showers Daniel Pires, especially a white 2016 total renovation. They hired Reims-based and Hermès products. We felt immediately Domaine de Trévallon from the Alpilles architect Giovanni Pace, who had recently at home, noting with pleasure the high in . designed a much-praised new winery for ceiling, the raw oak parquet floor, the The next day we availed ourselves of Moët & Chandon in the nearby village of perfect wall-mounted reading lights and the hotel’s electric bicycles and went for Oiry, to re-create the Royal Champagne. the high-quality cotton sheets. A glass a spin through the surrounding vine- Pace’s design has retained only part of the wall with sliding doors led to a spacious yards. Afterward, we enjoyed a leisurely existing hotel and added a limestone-faced balcony with two upholstered tub chairs afternoon at the excellent spa, which crescent-shaped building. It was a bold and a table. has nine treatment rooms, a hammam, move in a place that reveres tradition, Perhaps the hotel’s most distinctive a sauna, a fitness room, a yoga studio but it has worked beautifully. amenity is its Champagne bar with more and a juice bar. Facials use Biologique Our arrival was seamless. The valet than 200 vintages on offer. In good Recherche products. immediately dealt with our car and a weather, drinks are also served on a Throughout our stay the service was bellman escorted us to the dramatic lobby. huge outdoor terrace with overstuffed thoughtful, friendly and professional, and This is dominated by an equally striking loungers and sofas. Chef Jean-Denis we left with real regret. This superb hotel glass-and-gold-leaf sculpture suspended Rieubland, who formerly worked at is now the best address in Champagne in an atrium between the first and second Michelin two-star Le Chantecler in Nice, and is also a fascinating example of how oversees the hotel’s two restaurants. Le French hospitality is reinventing itself Clockwise from top: Indoor pool, Le Royal dining room, Bellevue, a contemporary bistro with a in the 21st century, with less formality and terrace, Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Champillon seasonal menu, offers dishes like roasted and more of the creature comforts that REPORT EDITOR HIDEAWAY SUITE: asparagus and Parmesan-crusted sea modern travelers now require.

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2019 Courtyard, and our Suite, La Maison de Rhodes, Troyes

After several days spent visiting Returning to the hotel later in the asparagus, followed by oven-roasted cod Champagne caves, including a private tour afternoon after some sightseeing, we with Provençale vegetables, and a beef of Hautvillers, where Dom Pérignon is enjoyed the outdoor plunge pool in a fillet grilled with herbs. For dessert, the buried, we drove an hour and a half south second courtyard garden and then headed homemade tarte Tatin was exceptional. to Troyes, an unspoiled medieval city of to the sauna. La Maison de Rhodes also La Maison de Rhodes is not a luxury magnificent churches and half-timbered has a whirlpool tub and a spa cabin, hotel but a unique and intimate hideaway, houses that remains one of the best-kept where ayurvedic massages are available with comfortable accommodations and secrets in France. At the end of the ninth by reservation. an abundance of character in a relatively century, the counts of Champagne chose Since it was a warm night, we ate little-known destination. Troyes as their capital, and it remained dinner outside in a garden listening to Back in Paris, after a one-and-a-half- the capital of the province of Champagne the cooing of doves. At the hotel’s La hour train ride from Troyes, we ordered until the Revolution. Commanderie restaurant, we sat at a two flutes of Champagne and raised our We reached the 11-room La Maison de table dressed with a starched white cloth glasses to a magical 10-day tour and the Rhodes on a cobbled back street late on a to enjoy a tart filled with Chaource (a indelible memories that we would carry SUITE: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR HIDEAWAY SUITE: sunny afternoon. With its sister property, local soft cow’s milk cheese) and white with us back to the United States. H four-star 12-room Le Champ des Oiseaux, La Maison de Rhodes occupies several A half-timbered 12th-century houses that CHÂTEAU DE SACY 90 once belonged to the Knights Templar LIKE The intimate atmosphere; the beautiful vineyard setting. DISLIKE The service is well-meaning but can be a little amateurish. GOOD TO KNOW Request a room in the front of the hotel, with a view of and that were meticulously renovated to the village, vineyards and the skyline of Reims on the horizon. LOWEST RATE: CLASSIC ROOM, $240; EDITOR’S preserve their huge oak beams, wooden CHOICE: SUITE, $450. RUE DES CROISETTES, SACY. TEL. (33) 3-26-07-60-38. staircases, original stone floors and A red-clay tile roofs. DOMAINE LES CRAYÈRES 92 LIKE The very comfortable, traditionally furnished rooms; the sweeping lawns and well-tended gardens. A friendly receptionist escorted us DISLIKE Service can be haughty; the lack of a pool, spa or gym. GOOD TO KNOW Only book a room in the to our spacious Suite, where we found main château itself, and request a view of the park, not the driveway. Restaurant reservations should be chintz-upholstered armchairs, a large made in advance. LOWEST RATE: SUPERIOR COTTAGE ROOM, $590; EDITOR’S CHOICE: PRESTIGE CHÂTEAU ROOM, $880. 64 BOULEVARD HENRY VASNIER, REIMS. TEL. (33) 3-26-24-90-00. (nonworking) brick fireplace, a beamed ceiling and a limestone floor with a sisal A ROYAL CHAMPAGNE HOTEL & SPA 95 area rug edged with canvas. Large windows LIKE Exceptionally stylish and comfortable rooms; excellent service; beautiful setting; terrific spa; overlooked both the street and an immacu- very good restaurants. DISLIKE Nothing. GOOD TO KNOW Make spa and restaurant reservations when you book your room. LOWEST RATE: GARDEN JUNIOR SUITE, $580; EDITOR’S CHOICE: PANORAMIC SUITE, $760. lately tended courtyard garden. The bath 9 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE, CHAMPILLON. TEL. (33) 3-26-52-87-11. came with double vanities set into a white- A tile counter, and the tub included a hand- LA MAISON DE RHODES 91 held shower. Perhaps the best feature of LIKE The meticulously restored historic building; the timeless atmosphere; the charming small restaurant. the room was its palpable aura of history, DISLIKE The hotel deserves a proper bar serving a good selection of by the glass. GOOD TO KNOW The restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday nights; tables should be reserved when booking both of the medieval house itself and the your room, because it is very popular with locals. LOWEST RATE: TRADITION ROOM, $300; EDITOR’S CHOICE: atmospheric city of Troyes. SUITE, $450. 18 RUE LINARD GONTHIER, TROYES. TEL. (33) 3-25-43-11-11.

JUNE 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 CHAMPAGNE NOTEBOOK

Beyond the Bubbly: GASTRONOMY AND RESTAURANTS

he Champagne region has recently emerged as one of the great Tgastronomic destinations in France, with an impressive constellation of some of the country’s best restaurants. Many of them also offer Champagne-pairing prix fixe menus. Since Champagne is made principally with three grape varieties — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — different producers create different cuvées (blends of grapes), plus mono-cépage (single-grape variety) wines, which pair well with a range of foods. The Champagne region also has a variety of regional gastronomic specialties. Chaource and , creamy cow’s milk cheeses, are produced here, and Reims is famous for its jambon de Reims, ham poached in an aromatic bouillon and usually served cold or chopped up in terrines. Troyes is well-known for its andouillette, a chitterling sausage, and Reims also produces mustard, which is made with marc de Champagne, a liqueur, and mustard seeds. Biscuits rose de Reims are pink ladyfinger-like cookies flavored with vanilla that are best nibbled with a flute of Champagne.

Here are the restaurants we most enjoyed on our recent trip (in addi- tion to Le Parc at Domaine Les Crayères and Le Royal at the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa).

L’ASSIETTE CHAMPENOISE BRASSERIE EXCELSIOR Chef Arnaud Lallement won his On a visit to Reims, not every meal third Michelin star in 2014 at this can be an haute cuisine experi- family-owned and -run restaurant ence, so this historic, recently in Tinqueux, a suburb of Reims. renovated art nouveau brasserie in Top row, from left: Jambon de Rennes at Brasserie Excelsior, and matcha tea cake with sorbet and fruit at Racine. Bottom row, from left: Sole with leeks, and asparagus Service is impeccable in dining the heart of town is a good choice with egg-yolk cartridge at L’Assiette Champenoise. rooms overlooking a pretty gar- for a simple relaxed lunch. We PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR den. The best way to enjoy a meal enjoyed some oysters, and then smoked salmon, or maybe some contemporary . here is to opt for one of the prix jambon de Rennes (ham terrine foie gras, and then tuck into the The $95 lunch menu represents fixe tasting menus. At a recent served with locally made mus- honey-lacquered lamb shank, or outstanding value and begins with Sunday lunch, the six-course tard and whipped cream spiked the tête de veau served with either four hors d’oeuvres; we particularly Saveur menu ($220 per person) with horseradish), followed by sauce gribiche (a mayonnaise-style enjoyed the finely grated beetroot was outstanding. It began with grilled cod with mushroom lasa- cold egg sauce) or sauce ravigote with smoked eel and smoked-eel green asparagus garnished with gna, and sole meunière. The ser- (seasoned with chives, parsley, bouillon. These were followed by egg yolk in pastry cartridges, vice was prompt and friendly. shallots and capers). There is an marinated salmon with kiwi and

baby peas in shellfish bouillon 96 PLACE DROUET D’ERLON, REIMS. excellent cheese plate of local rutabaga, and John Dory with a

with sumac, and roasted sole TEL. (33) 3-26-91-40-50. raw-milk cheeses. And the selec- trio of sauces; a dessert of white with baby leeks. These treats tion of regional wines is notable. chocolate, lime and meadowsweet; were followed by duckling with CHEZ FELIX 5 RUELLE DES CHATS, TROYES. TEL. (33) and mignardises (pastries) with 3-10-94-03-03. spring vegetables; a cheese Nestled away in an atmospheric coffee. The excellent selection PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR trolley from Philippe Olivier in lane of medieval half-timbered of wines by the glass included Boulogne-sur-Mer, one of the houses in the heart of Troyes, this RACINE a 2014 Chevreux-Bournazel La great cheesemongers of France; lively brasserie is a local favorite. Japanese chef Kazuyuki Tanaka Parcelle, a richly flavored still

and a variety of desserts. CLOSED The menu changes often, but the is the most celebrated chef in wine from vineyards just outside

TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY. 40 AVENUE owner is committed to working Champagne right now, thanks Reims. CLOSED TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY

PAUL VAILLANT-COUTURIER, TINQUEUX. with the best-quality seasonal to his exquisitely light, fresh and AND THURSDAY LUNCH. 6 PLACE GODINOT,

TEL. (33) 3-26-84-64-64. produce. Start with the house- inventive Japanese-influenced REIMS. TEL. (33) 3-26-35-16-95.

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2019 LOS ANGELES BOUTIQUE HOTELS Striking downtown properties, plus a reinvented beachfront inn

in the rapidly gentrifying Los Feliz neigh- borhood. Opened in 2015, the nine-room property stands atop a coffee house, a wine bar and a gourmet ice cream shop, a trinity that covers many of my primary consumption requirements. In fact, the hotel functions more as a set of small independent apartments, each with its own entrance. The only public space reserved for guests is a roof terrace, furnished with a couple of sofas and loungers. We texted the hotel when we arrived, as instructed. Kevin, a friendly manager, met us out front and directed us to the rear parking lot, accessible via an alley.

View of the restaurant terrace Kevin helped bring our luggage up a flight from our room, Malibu Beach Inn of stairs to our sunny suite, Chapter 9. At first glance, I liked the wood-floored or many inhabitants of rival cities numerous galleries and stylish shops in room’s spacious layout, with a large off- Flike New York and Chicago, dispar- converted warehouses, and some luxury white sectional sofa, a wet bar stocked with aging Los Angeles is a popular pastime. hotels have now opened. The NoMad Hotel, dishes and glasses, a full-size refrigerator L.A. may have gorgeous weather and occupying a grand former bank building, and a king bed on a 1970s-inspired plat- gorgeous movie stars, they concede, but is the most stylish of these, but with 241 form covered in -toned carpet. the ethos is shallow, the smog is thick, and rooms, it is clearly no hideaway. That décor choice doubtless won’t please the traffic is insufferable. Such thoughts In fact, all three of our current hotels everyone, nor will the compact bath with comfort those obliged to slog through the in Los Angeles have more than 100 rooms. limited counter space and one small sink. slush each winter. Alas, they are largely So I decided to see if I could find any I also felt let down by the “incredible view untrue. In fact, as we found on a recent boutique properties, ideally somewhere of the Griffith Park Observatory” promised visit, Los Angeles can be a delight, with more convenient to the city’s resurgent on the hotel’s website. The only incredible PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR friendly people, a thriving art scene, downtown than Beverly Hills. I sought thing was that I could find the tiny distant sensational restaurants and, yes, the smaller hideaways to the east. observatory at all, amid the visual barrage occasional movie star sighting. And the Of the three hotels I reviewed, the of tacky billboards and unsightly rooftop traffic is not much worse than in other Hotel Covell was the closest to downtown, air conditioners. large conurbations. Indeed, I challenge Our Chapter 9 suite, Hotel Covell anyone to rent a late-model convertible and not enjoy driving in L.A. Our suggested hotels cluster together in Beverly Hills and Bel Air, and those neighborhoods are still fine places in which to stay. They are at least half an hour from downtown, however, and downtown Los

PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR Angeles has seen a major (if incomplete) renaissance in recent years. In spite of some remaining grit, it is now home to many of the city’s best restaurants and bars, as well as major cultural institutions like The Broad museum and the neigh- boring Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall. The Arts District houses

JUNE 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR

faced a king bed, and a complimentary minibar offered an assortment of snacks. The beverage selection was rather less impressive: a can of cola, a can of diet cola and a reusable glass bottle of (tap?) water. Guests can congregate on the bright and inviting roof terrace or in the homey Living Room. Small continental breakfast buffets are served there each morning, with pastries, fruit and coffee (savory items and proteins are available via room service). We also came down to the Living Room one evening before dinner, hoping to sit on the sofa by the fireplace and enjoy a drink from the honor bar, as described on the hotel’s website. But we learned that the honor bar had been removed shortly after the 850’s debut. Guests seeking an aperitif must now go elsewhere. In all other respects, we had a splen- did time at the Hotel 850. The staff were wel ­coming, the housekeepers were con- scientious, and our accommodations

were sunny and stylish. The Hotel 850 XTERIOR: LAURE JOLIET E is not a grand luxury hotel like our

other properties in town; instead, it’s a charming and comfortable guesthouse. I wouldn’t hesitate to return. Klein has a second and more famous

Exterior, and our One Bedroom Suite, Hotel 850 hotel in Los Angeles, the historic Sunset Tower Hotel. This striking art deco PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR On the plus side, Kevin responded decorated by Rita Konig. A smartly dressed structure opened in 1931 as a luxury quickly to requests, such as when we asked man at the front desk checked us in and apartment building, and it was home to him to send up some trouser hangers. And informed us that we had been upgraded numerous famous and infamous people,

we enjoyed breakfasting each morning on from a Grand Room to the One Bedroom including Errol Flynn, Marilyn Monroe, ROOM PHOTOS: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR the patio below our room. The Go Get Em Suite, the best accommodation in the John Wayne, Truman Capote and Bugsy Tiger coffee shop served all-too-tempting hotel. He summoned a valet to retrieve Siegel (his former apartment is now The pastries, yeasted waffles and flawless the luggage from our car and asked him to Tower Bar). Barely saved from demolition scrambled eggs. I also recommend stop- accompany us in the elevator to our airy in the early 1980s, the building became ping by the cozy and friendly Bar Covell. fourth-floor suite. a hotel, which Klein purchased in 2004 Overall, I enjoyed our stay, the uninspiring The bright living room came with wood and renovated. He completed a “refresh” views aside, but the property will appeal floors and sisal-covered walls, windows of the 81-room hotel last year, and I was only to more-self-sufficient travelers. on two sides and glass doors leading to a curious if the plaudits the press have We checked out and drove to West terrace. From its cushioned loungers and lavished on the property and its restaurant Hollywood, a lively neighborhood just love seat, we could see some of the Century were deserved. east of Beverly Hills, where hotelier City skyline beyond the West Hollywood My initial impression was unfavor- Jeff Klein opened the Hotel 850 in rooftops. On the other side of the living able. After leaving the car in the care 2018. Within a short walk of the center room, the spacious bath also had plenty of of the valet, we entered a compact and of West Hollywood’s nightlife on Santa light, enhanced by a white-marble counter surprisingly hectic lobby. The young man Monica Boulevard, the 23-room property on the dual vanities and a roomy white- at the front desk seemed harried, and his combines a century-old bungalow with a marble walk-in shower. Brass fixtures welcome was laconic. When he asked if we new building tucked discreetly behind it, and botanical prints added touches of needed help with our luggage, in a tone designed by architect Marc Appleton and warmth. In the bedroom, a gas fireplace indicating that he expected us to decline,

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2019 I replied that some assistance would be spinach — ranked as good comfort food, After reviewing these hotels in the lovely. I had no intention of going up to undeserving of their price tags. congested heart of Los Angeles, a little an $850-per-night room unaccompa- But of course, the hotel promotes The time along the coast seemed like just nied. A gregarious bellman salvaged the Tower Bar for its celebrity sightings and the thing. We put our convertible’s top situation somewhat; he actually seemed exclusive ambiance, presided over by the down, turned the radio up and headed pleased to see us. celebrated maitre d’ Gabé Doppelt, not the west. Malibu entered the luxury hotel Located on the 14th floor, one floor food. Since I have poor star-spotting skills, spotlight in 2017 with the opening of below the penthouse, our accommoda- I invited a local friend who works in the the 16-room Nobu Ryokan, a hotel about tions had memorable views of Sunset industry to dinner. He assured me that no which I couldn’t muster any enthusiasm. Boulevard and the mansion-cluttered one in the restaurant that night ranked Rooms start at about $2,000 a night with Hollywood Hills. I quite liked the art deco as a celebrity. Doppelt also failed to make a minimum two-night stay, and that price décor done in pink, white and chocolate. an appearance during our two-night stay. doesn’t even purchase a sea view. In the small living room, black-and-white Several minor problems arose during A few doors down, the Malibu Beach movie stills hung above a white-linen sofa. our visit. We didn’t have enough hangers Inn has quietly reinvented itself. After The bedroom occupied a corner of the in our wardrobe, for example, and it took owning the property for 10 years, media building, rounded by a floor-to-ceiling arc two phone calls and four hours to have magnate David Geffen sold the 47-room of windows. Midcentury modern-inspired more delivered. The beautiful windows hotel to the Mani Brothers Real Estate gold wallpaper embellished the bath, provided poor soundproofing; we went Group, which put its own stamp on the which came with a deep tub and a walk-in to sleep to the sounds of a DJ across the hotel. Now the rooms and restaurant shower with a window. At turndown our street calling out drink specials. And most have been refreshed, and rates are less first night, we received a chocolate model important, the hotel lacked the sense of than half the Nobu Ryokan’s. We booked of the Sunset Tower, in addition to the being a hideaway, in spite of its zealous a two-night stay, hoping for a relaxing chocolate chip and oatmeal-raisin cookies protection of celebrity guests’ privacy. spell of low-key beachside chic.

XTERIOR: LAURE JOLIET normally provided each evening. Staying at the Sunset Tower felt very “L.A.,” The drive along the Pacific Coast E During our stay we enjoyed break- but like many Hollywood blockbusters Highway to the hotel is, alas, uninspiring. fasting on the pool terrace — actor Josh nowadays, it has been overhyped. The main Malibu thoroughfare functions Brolin sat across from us one morning, Details of our suite, and exterior, Sunset Tower Hotel at a table gratifyingly inferior to ours. A ruinously expensive spa ensures that guests who can afford it look their best — it focuses on beauty treatments more PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR than massages — and one floor below, a dramatic gym provides intimidatingly good-looking personal trainers. But I

ROOM PHOTOS: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR didn’t feel up to a workout, and the pool terrace was closed for private events by the time we arrived back at the hotel each afternoon. The vaunted Tower Bar also proved something of a disappointment. I liked its welcoming staff and cozy décor, complete with a fireplace and wood paneling. But style triumphed over substance here. The by-the-glass wine selection was uninspiring, and there’s nothing special about a list of “Specialty Cocktails” that includes a basic Aperol spritz and Moscow Mule. The throwback food menu proved similarly banal. The deviled eggs topped with a few crumbs of paddlefish caviar were especially unimpressive. Other dishes — including oysters Rockefeller and an immense pork chop with apple sauce and

JUNE 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 View of the Malibu Beach Inn from the pier, and bedroom with a view of the Pacific

as an alley for the mansions sandwiched on the oceanfront terrace, warmed by Malibu Beach Inn does have its own set between it and the beach. Beneath peri- umbrella-shaped heaters. I also appre- of loungers. Since the law also forbids odic utility poles are the garage doors and ciated the wine list, which included the hotel to serve alcohol on the beach, trash bins of homes pressed together like adventurous selections as well as trophy we ordered some spicy ginger beers from marshmallows on a string. The Malibu wines like Grand Cru Aloxe-Corton by the the attendant and settled in with our Beach Inn stands at the end of such a glass. Breakfasts felt just as indulgent. I novels. I’m glad we took time to do some string. The next major structure, about 500 ordered a lump-crab omelet one morning hikes nearby and visit the Getty Villa’s feet away, is the picturesque Malibu Pier. and truffled scrambled eggs the next. magnificent ancient art collection. But Our third-floor King Premier Ocean The hotel’s other principal amenity I could have very happily never left the Front room had a splendid view of distant is its spa suite, a converted guest room, hotel. Relaxation is a vital activity that’s Catalina Island from a glass-fronted where I enjoyed an expensive but super- increasingly absent from ever-more- balcony. We had espresso there each lative massage. And, of course, there purposeful American vacations, and the morning as the sun turned the sea to gold. is the beach. California law doesn’t Malibu Beach Inn is an ideal place to do Inside, the spacious room mixed beachy allow for beaches to be private, but the just that. H and Danish modern styles, with wood floors, wood paneling, a gas fireplace and HOTEL COVELL 87 ROMEREIN EDROOM: LISA B PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR a vaulted wood-beamed ceiling, hung with LIKE The appealing neighborhood close to downtown; the warm and helpful manager; the charming wine

surprisingly attractive track lighting. The bar. DISLIKE The oversold view; the lack of turndown service; the poor soundproofing. GOOD TO KNOW Room service from the wine bar (from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.) and from a nearby breakfast taco restaurant (from 8 a.m. room’s one closet felt tight for two people, to 3 p.m.) is available for an $18 service fee. LOWEST RATE: CHAPTER 2, $360; EDITOR’S CHOICE: CHAPTER 4, $680. however, and the bath felt even tighter. 4626 HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD, LOS ANGELES. TEL. (323) 660-4300. It had all we needed — a tile shower, a A double trough sink — but the elements HOTEL 850 91 LIKE The location close to West Hollywood restaurants and nightlife; the stylish décor; the commendable barely fit in the space. Soundproofing, housekeeping staff; the sunny roof terrace. DISLIKE The complimentary continental breakfast buffet had as at so many of the hotels in the Los few savory items; the sad beverage selection in the complimentary minibar. GOOD TO KNOW The honor bar Angeles area, was also a problem. We had mentioned (as of this writing) on the hotel’s website no longer exists, which means you must go outside the hotel for an alcoholic beverage; hot breakfast dishes are available via room service. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD no trouble hearing the whoosh of cars on QUEEN, $320; EDITOR’S CHOICE: ONE BEDROOM SUITE, $990. 850 NORTH SAN VICENTE BOULEVARD, WEST HOLLYWOOD. REPORT EDITOR EXTERIOR: HIDEAWAY the Pacific Coast Highway. TEL. (424) 313-8650. Still, such was the beauty of our view, the comfort of our room and the thought- SUNSET TOWER HOTEL 89 LIKE The art deco architecture; the memorable views; the glamorous pool terrace. DISLIKE Our tepid fulness of the staff, it felt difficult to welcome; the hectic lobby; the closure of the pool terrace in the late afternoon both days of our stay; the inad- summon any lasting feelings of irritation. equate soundproofing. GOOD TO KNOW Although the hotel strongly forbids photography in any public spaces, In addition to a complimentary bottle of if you want a picture of yourself, waiters seem happy to oblige. LOWEST RATE: MODERATE QUEEN, $510; EDITOR’S CHOICE: DELUXE KING SUITE, $950. 8358 SUNSET BOULEVARD, WEST HOLLYWOOD. TEL. (323) 654-7100. wine, we received a selection of macarons A one evening, as well as nightly chocolate MALIBU BEACH INN 92 truffles at turndown. LIKE The friendly and efficient staff; our airy room and its Pacific-view balcony; the fine restaurant and its Downstairs, the Carbon Beach Club sublime waterfront terrace. DISLIKE Sound from the Pacific Coast Highway penetrated our room; our petite bath. GOOD TO KNOW Because there is only one spa treatment room, book services well in advance. LOWEST Restaurant was a delight. We had a deli- RATE: KING PIER VIEW, $570; EDITOR’S CHOICE: KING OCEAN FRONT JUNIOR SUITE, $960. 22878 PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, cious Mediterranean-inspired dinner MALIBU. TEL. (310) 651-7777.

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT JUNE 2019 L.A. NOTEBOOK

Favorite New LOS ANGELES RESTAURANTS

It’s been 10 years since Michelin published a guide to the restaurants of the L. A. dining scene has been heading, we focused on restaurants that America’s second-largest city, but 2019 sees its return. The timing could opened in 2018 or later. But even within that limited period of time there not be better. As my recent visit confirmed, Los Angeles now ranks among were several tempting new establishments that our schedule forced us the great dining destinations of the United States. To get a sense for where to skip, most notably Bavel downtown.

NIGHTSHADE — One of down- confit and subtle mentaiko (spicy arrived with a description and a TESSE — This West Hollywood town Los Angeles’ newest eater- cod roe), as well as my main course flourish. With few exceptions, the restaurant has a menu drawn from ies is also one of its best. Hidden of delicate rock cod with a light small courses packed big flavor the cuisines of Italy, France, Spain on a side street in the Arts Dis- glaze of kabosu (a Japanese citrus) punches. A super-savory slice of and Morocco and an atmosphere trict, this chic restaurant has a and sansho pepper, accompanied “Pizza Margherita” had a crust of that is at once romantic and a little bright industrial-luxe décor and by herbaceous mizuna (mustard clarified tomato water meringue, boisterous. After considering the superlative food influenced by a green) pesto and dashi broth. 631 and bright and fresh “guacamole” 37 options of wines by the glass or wide range of Asian cuisines. An NORTH LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD, WEST came with ice cream-like avocado half-glass, I ended up with a white appetizer of hand-chopped beef HOLLYWOOD. TEL. (310) 359-0788. purée spiked with habanero chile Gros Manseng from Arsac, north- tartare had a complex interplay of liqueur, tequila, mint and basil. I west of Bordeaux. It cut through flavors and textures, with sesame SOMNI — Star chef José Andrés, relished the textures of a course the richness of the Blue Crab oil, black garlic, slightly spicy together with acclaimed chef de of tempura shiso leaf topped with Simplissime appetizer of crabmeat, gochugaru (Korean red pepper cuisine Aitor Zabala, opened this dry-aged strip loin tartare and lobster-cognac bisque and silky powder), creamy egg yolk “jam” 10-seat restaurant last year in the blue borage flowers. A simple whipped potatoes. Charred cau- and crunchy crackers made from SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills, and it but sublimely fresh peel-and-eat liflower with tangy pomegranate tapioca pearls. I also loved the al ranks among L.A.’s most expensive. spot prawn took me right back to provided a healthy counterpoint, dente squid ink bucatini with subtly Tickets (reservations are prepaid) a memorable seafood meal I had reversed by a plate of bucatini with

spicy cuttlefish “Bolognese.”CLOSED cost $265.50 per person, including along Barcelona’s waterfront. And duck prosciutto, shallots and bone

MONDAY. 923 EAST THIRD STREET, SUITE a $50 service charge and $28.50 bone-in Spanish turbot, paired marrow scraped tableside into

109, LOS ANGELES. TEL. (213) 626-8888. in taxes, but not beverages. A with some aromatic turbot-bone the mix. I wondered why the bone nonalcoholic drink pairing costs an tea, was great fun to eat in the remained on the table as I ate my PACIFIQUE — Although it had additional $85, and wine pairings manner of a chicken wing. Since main of John Dory with coriander, EDROOM: LISA ROMEREIN EDROOM: LISA B PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR been open less than a month when range between $175 and $500 per the restaurant was so small, many carrot, parsnip strips and saffron we visited, Pacifique already had its person, not including service or tax. of us ended up chatting with one broth. Our waiter had left it there act together. A salad of bitter radic- If those numbers aren’t daunting, another, giving the meal the feel in case we wanted to do a “bone chio and sweet pink lady apples a dinner at Somni is a sensational of an extraordinary dinner party. luge,” which involves the sommelier came with savory soy nuts, yuzu experience. We started in a lounge If you can afford to dine at Somni, pouring five-year Madeira down the kosho (fermented chiles and citrus) area outside the restaurant for you won’t find that your money trough of the bone straight into a and cinnamon-date purée. I also canapés (crunchy potato “paper” has been wasted. CLOSED SUNDAY patron’s mouth. Even in college, I enjoyed some al dente agnolotti dipped in manteca colorá, for AND MONDAY. 465 SOUTH LA CIENEGA didn’t do anything so ridiculous.

filled with creamy potato purée and example) before heading inside BOULEVARD, BEVERLY HILLS. TEL. (310) 8500 WEST SUNSET BOULEVARD, SUITE B,

topped with beurre blanc, garlic to sit at the counter. Each course 246-5543. WEST HOLLYWOOD. TEL. (310) 360-3866. EXTERIOR: HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR EXTERIOR: HIDEAWAY

From left: Hand-chopped beef tartare at Nightshade, peel-and-eat spot prawn at Somni, and Blue Crab Simplissime at Tesse

JUNE 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 NEW & NOTEWORTHY FIND MORE ON HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM

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Vicuñas and the Misti volcano (19,101 feet) near Arequipa, Peru

NEW ANDEAN HIDEAWAY either a spectacular seven- accommodations.) Then, in Arequipa, Peru’s second city, hour drive through the Andes January 2018, a flash flood has a spectacular situation or a 50-minute flight. caused by torrential rainfall beneath 19,101-foot Misti, in areas deforested by recent a perfectly symmetrical, SAN YSIDRO REBORN fires broke the banks of San seasonally snowcapped Set on a 500-acre estate, Ysidro Creek, and an ensuing volcano. The imposing 6 miles northeast of Santa mudslide badly damaged 21 of baroque buildings of its Barbara, San Ysidro Ranch the 41 cottages and destroyed historic center — a UNESCO is one of the most legendary 3 entirely. Now, after an World Heritage site — were retreats in the United States extensive renovation, the constructed from white (with a Hideaway Report property is open for business volcanic stone. The one thing rating of 98). Vivien Leigh once more, complete with HIDEAWAY REPORT that Arequipa has lacked is and Laurence Olivier were a new wine cellar. Every HOTEL RATINGS a notable hotel. This should married at the ranch, and effort was made to return A99-100 — A truly great hotel, among

John and Jackie Kennedy San Ysidro to its original AREQUIPA: KSENIYA RAGOZINA / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES be about to change, with the the finest of its kind in the world opening in June of Cirqa, an spent part of their honeymoon appearance, and mature trees A96-98 — An exceptional hotel of great 11-room hideaway, housed there. (The 2,000-square- and vines were planted to individuality and distinction within a former parador, the foot, two-bedroom Kennedy replace those that were felled A93-95 — An outstanding hotel of foundations of which go back Cottage, with its private deck by the storm. Despite the genuine sophistication to 1540. The property is the overlooking the Channel devastation, returning guests A90-92 — A fine hotel with consider- brainchild of Ignacio Masias, Islands, remains one of the are unlikely to notice any able charm about which we have minor whose first hotel venture, resort’s most sought-after significant change. reservations Titilaka, on Peru’s Lake Titi- 89 & Below — A hotel that did not meet the San Ysidro Ranch, California required standard caca, has long been a favorite of Hideaway Report members. Find all of our recommended hotels at HideawayReport.com. Cirqa is located close to Are-­ quipa’s main Plaza de Armas Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published and will offer two atmo- monthly by Andrew Harper, LLC at 4214 Medical Parkway, Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals spheric colonial courtyards, Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mail- ing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes a rooftop restaurant with a to: Hideaway Report, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax menu featuring reinterpreta- (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts tions of local specialties and us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a a spa. Its sister property on corrected address within one year. Copyright 2019. Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; Lake Titicaca lies 220 miles WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is pro- to the east and is reached by hibited without written permission from the publisher.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING IS AVAILABLE TO MEMBERS AT (800) 375-4685 OR [email protected].