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Home , Travnik, Tvrtko Jakovina, University of Banja Luka, University of Zadar, University of Zagreb

Cultures in Contact: and Memory in the former June 1-July 2, 2020 Instructors: Mary Neuburger and Masa Kolanovic This Maymester provides an in-depth exploration of the variety of political entities and cultural groups that have inhabited, interacted, coexisted, and/or engaged in conflict in the former Yugoslavia. Through lectures and discussions, readings, films, and an in-country portion in Slovenia, and students will learn about the complex history of the region and how it is remembered (or forgotten) in three of the seven successor states of the former Yugoslavia. Before visiting the region, students will be introduced to its history and culture in a one-credit spring course, taught by Dr. Mary Neuburger, with guest lectures by Dr. Vladislav Beronja, Dr. Maša Kolanović (who will co- leading the overseas portion of the course) and others. The in-country portion of the course will include lectures, guided tours, cultural events, meetings with local students, museum visits, and other sites in major cities like Ljubljana, , and . We will also visit smaller cities along the amazing Croatia coast (Pula, , Sibenik, ) and in Bosnia and Herzegovina (Pocitel, Travnik, ). The trip will also include a visit to the stunning Plitvička Jezera and Kornati National Parks, where students will see some of the unique natural features of the region. The study tour will bring students to a variety of sites that are important for understanding the rich (and at times brutal) history of the area, which continues to color (and haunt) the present. This includes the layered legacies of the Ottoman and Habsburg Empires and the Venetian Republic, as well as the two incarnations of Yugoslavia (Monarchist and Socialist). We will also delve into the events and collective memories of World War I (which began in Sarajevo), World War II, and the recent wars that followed the collapse of socialist Yugoslavia and resulted in genocide in Bosnia and Herzegovina in the 1990s. Students will participate in various onsite tasks: such as independent cultural scavenger hunts and social media journaling using a shared platform (such as Slack). Together we will document and analyze the disparate cultures and visible layers of the past through monuments, museum artifacts, and the arts--to be shared and discussed on and offline. Learning Objectives: 1) To gain a general knowledge about the people, cultures, and history of the former Yugoslavia, through readings, films, discussions, and direct exposure. 2) To and interact directly with people’s (of various generations) of the former Yugoslavia and formulate, ask, and enter into dialogue about critical issues in their past and present. 3) To reflect upon such issues critically, and in connection with US issues around tolerance and difference. 4) To learn how to talk (and write about), and conduct measured dialogues on difficult issues (cross-culturally). Grading: 40% participation in group activities; 30% journal entries; 30% short response papers.

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Short Readings on site TBD:

Itinerary: At least 5 days per week will begin with a one-hour session during which we will start with providing (or reviewing) some basic phrases in Croatian and then spend the rest of the time with a preparatory lecture that frames the activities of the day ahead. Each of these “work” days will include a 3-4 hours of excursion, museum visits, or meetings with local students (in select cities). FInally, a group meeting at the end of each of these days will provide a discussion of the day’s experiences where students will be asked to digest, process, and reflect on what they learned that day. In all 5-6 hours a day at least 5 days a week (over 4 weeks) will be spent in group lecture, discussion or educational excursions. Hence there will be at least 100 contact hours.

June 1-7: Zagreb (Croatia)

Zagreb is the political and cultural capital of Croatia, where students can deepen their understanding and explore a variety of perspectives on Croatian (as well as Habsburg and Yugoslav) history and culture through the range of activities below.

- Local orientation and “survival Croatian” session - Daily morning lectures by from the of Zagreb, including Maša Kolanović, Danijela Lugarić, , and Maroje Mrduljaš - Meeting with students of the - Meeting with one or more of the following writers Miljenko Jergović, Dubravka Ugrešić and/or - Film screening of Srbenka by Nebojša Slijepčević and conversation with the director - City walking and driving tours - Visits to the Following: National Archive; ; War Photography Museum; Museum of Contemporary Art; Dotršćina Memory Park - Visit Zagreb‘s biggest flea market, Hrelić - Excursion: Kumrovec (birthplace of Marshal Tito, Yugoslav president from 1945-80).

June 8-10: Ljubljana (Slovenia)

Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia, which has a shared, and many respects distinct, history from Croatia--before during and after Yugoslavia. This short trip to the Slonvenian capital will allow students to see the deep imprint of Austro-Habsburg culture on th Western edge of the South Slavic lands. It will allow students another (variety) of perspectives on the legacies and memories of the past in this region.

- City walking and driving tours

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- Lecture by Tanja Petrović at the Institute of Culture and Memory Studies - Visit relevant local museums

June 11-13: Pula (Croatia) Returning to Croatia, students will make their first stop on the beautiful Adraitic coast in a city on the Istrian Peninsula. There they will encounter a different set of configuration of historical influence, including remnants of ancient civilizations from before the Bronze age, an intact Roman coliseum, and medieval and early modern Venetian architecture. They will learn about the interactions of Slavs and Italians in the history of this region from Early Modern times to the 20th century and how Istria came to be part of Yugoslavia and later Croatia. - Lecture by local historian, Igor Duda - Walking tour of the old town. - Visit Archaeological Museum and the Center for cultural and historical research of socialism - Excursion: Daytrip to Brijuni Island, summer residence of socialist political elites where Tito has a summer residence (and zoo). Tour the island, visit the Tito Museum and swim with underground roman ruins

June 14: Plitvička Jezera (Croatia) One night in (or near) the Plitvička Jezera national park, a mere hour from the coast and on the way to the next seaside destination. This natural wonder will allow students a brain break, but also a day of hiking and relaxing in one of the most beautiful natural wonders in (if not the world).

June 15-17: Zadar (Croatia) Returning to the coast, Zadar will be the base for the next three days of exploring the Dalmatian (central and Southern) coast of Croatia. We will continue to examine and discuss the complex past of this region from its ancient past to the present. This will include a discussion of under and after socialism as a central component of the regions economy and reality. - Visit to the . Lecture by literary historian Adriana Vidić - Walking tour of the old city. Visits to relevant museums. - Excursions: 1) Kornati national park (a relaxing boat excursion to a nearby uninhabited island chain); 2) Halfday trip to adjacent small town of Nin

June 18-19: Sibenik (Croatia)

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Continuing south down the Croatian (Dalmatian) Coast, the group will alight in Sibenik, a town replete which shares many Italian/Slavic features of other Dalmatian coastal cities, but with a distinct cultural heritage. - Walking tour of the old city. - Visit to the Victory Museum. - Excursion to nearby smaller towns of Trogir and Primosten June 20-24: Dubrovnik (Croatia) For our last stop in Croatia we will visit the jewel in the crown of the Dalmatian coast, Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik has ample cultural monuments and museums in the extensive old core of this walled city, but also can serve as a base for side trips. - City sightseeing: Walking tour of the old town - Cable car to Srđ viewpoint and Homeland War Museum. - Visit the War Photo Limited exhibition and Museum of Red History, - Visit ruins of the socialist hotel Kupari - Excursions: Lokrum island; Elafiti islands, and the town of Cavtat

June 25-26: Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina) The Next stop on the trip will be Mostar, the most important city in Herzegovina. There we will see the world famous Mostar bridge, an array of mosques and churches, museums and other sites. We will also begin to explore how the distant and recent past are remembered and memorialized within Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is a contested and complex topic.

- Walking tour of the old city. - Museum of War and Genocide Victims. - Excursion: Nearby town of Pocitel.

June 27-July 1: Sarajevo (Bosnia) Our final stop will be in Sarejevo, the political and cultural of Bosnia and Herzegvoina. There we will experience a wide array of museums, monuments and cultural practices. We will see the visible layers and remnants of history around the city, as will continue to explore the contested process of representation and preservation of the past.

- Lecture and guided tour by Emir Muhić, University of - Visits to the following museums, War Childhood museum, Genocide Museum, Sarajevo freedom tunnel (War tour), Sarajevo Museum (WWI) / Bridge - History Museum (and Tito cafe), Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Tour Gazi-Husrev-Beg Mosque complex, as well as a Catholic Church, an Orthodox Church, and a synagogue - Take Cable Car to view point - Excursion: To town of Travnik

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July 2: Depart Sarajevo

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