2019
UNIVERSAL REGISTRATION DOCUMENT Integrated Report Annual Financial Report CONTENTS INTEGRATED REPORT P.02
BUSINESS OVERVIEW 33 CORPORATE GOVERNANCE 97
1.1. Chargeurs Protective Films 34 4.1. Corporate governance framework 98 1.2. Chargeurs PCC Fashion 4.2. Governance structure and Technologies 38 Board committees 99 01 1.3. Chargeurs Museum Solutions 42 04 4.3. Executive Management, 1.4. Chargeurs Luxury Materials 46 Board of Directors and 1.5. Analysis of 2019 Board Committees 109 consolidated results 50 4.4. Directors’ compensation 116 1.6. A culture of manufacturing 4.5. Code of Conduct and excellence serving high-end, Ethics Committee 129 distinctive markets 54 FINANCIAL AND ACCOUNTING RISK FACTORS AND THE INFORMATION 131 CONTROL ENVIRONMENT 57 5.1. The Group’s 2019 consolidated 2.1. The main risks to which 05 financial statements 132 02 the Group believes it is exposed 58 5.2. 2019 Financial statements 2.2. Insurance 65 of the parent company 186 2.3. Internal control procedures 5.3. Statutory Auditors’ special and risk management 66 report on related-party agreements and commitments 204 5.4 Other financial and accounting NON-FINANCIAL information 206 PERFORMANCE STATEMENT 71
3.1. Our CSR approach 72 SHARE CAPITAL AND 03 3.2. Managing the CSR approach 73 OWNERSHIP STRUCTURE 209 3.3. Non-financial performance: the Gaïa Index 74 6.1. Stock market information 210 3.4. CSR risks and opportunities 75 06 6.2. Dividends paid 212 3.5. Customer testimonials 85 6.3. Ownership structure 212 3.6. Non-financial performance 6.4. Additional information statement cross-reference table 89 about the Company's capital 213 3.7 Summary table of human resources indicators 91 3.8 Report by the Independent Third Party on the consolidated human resources, environmental and social information included in the management report 92 20 INFORMATION REGARDING THE ORDINARY AND EXTRAORDINARY GENERAL 07 MEETING OF APRIL 28, 2020 221 19 7.1. Agenda 222 7.2. Report of the Board of Directors on the draft resolutions submitted to the Annual General Meeting of April 28, 2020 223 UNIVERSAL 7.3. Draft resolutions submitted to the Annual General Meeting REGISTRATION of April 28, 2020 245 DOCUMENT ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 261 INTEGRATED REPORT ANNUAL FINANCIAL REPORT 8.1. Relationships between Chargeurs and its subsidiaries 262 8.2. Main legal characteristics 262 08 8.3. Statement by the person responsible for the Universal Registration Document 263 8.4. Documents available to the public 264 8.5. Statutory Auditors 264 8.6. Cross-reference tables 265 8.7. Glossary of financial terms 271
he French language version of this Universal Registration Document was filed on TApril 6, 2020 with the AMF, as the competent authority under Regulation (EU) 2017/1129, without prior approval as allowed by Article 9 of the Regulation. The Universal Registration Document may be used as a prospectus for a public offer of financial instruments or the admission of financial instruments for trading on a regulated market, provided that it is accompanied by an information memorandum (or listing particulars) and, if necessary, summary and detailed descriptions of all the amendments made to the Universal Registration Document. In this case, the prospectus comprising the Universal Registration Document and the information memorandum or listing particulars is submitted to the AMF for approval in accordance with Regulation (EU) 2017/1129.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 1 Our integrated report
The purpose of the integrated report is to present the raison d'être of the Chargeurs Group and how it creates long-term value for all of its stakeholders – its customers, shareholders, employees and society at large. The report is designed to give readers a holistic vision of the Group’s challenges, while encouraging them to find out more as they read through the universal registration document. It was prepared as a collaborative project involving the entire Executive Committee and led by the Investor Relations Department. By combining both financial and non-financial data, it paints a well-rounded picture of our actions and our performance, giving a clear meaning to what we do.
2 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document A MESSAGE FROM “Making our MICHAËL FRIBOURG, 2019 businesses Chairman and INTEGRATED iconic Chief Executive Officer REPORT champions in high P.04 CONTENTS value‑added Message from the Chairman — 04 Financial highlights — 06 niches.” History of the Group — 07 Outstanding achievements — 08
OUR BUSINESSES OUR STRATEGY P.10 P.18 Chargeurs Protective Films — 12 Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies — 13 International expansion — 19 Chargeurs Museum Solutions — 14 Game Changer — 20 Chargeurs Luxury Materials — 15 The success of Chargeurs Business Standards — 21 Global challenges as new opportunities — 16 Innovating to push back boundaries — 22 Designer of Iconic Champions — 23 Selective acquisitions — 24 A sustainable transformation — 26 Creating shared value — 28
GOVERNANCE P.30 Robust, engaged governance — 30
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 3 Message from the Chairman
“In an uncertain environment, Chargeurs intends to leverage all of the benefits of the major transformations it has successfully completed in recent years to gain new business and drive sustained growth.”
Michaël Fribourg Chairman and Chief Executive Officer
2020 opens a new decade for your Group – a to shift its output to sanitary gel and protective decade of ambition, and also a decade of oppor‑ masks for healthcare professionals and other tunities that we intend to seize methodically and exposed professions. By repurposing part of with discipline and distinction, to strengthen our its manufacturing and logistics resources in competitive advantages, widen our leadership just a few hours, Chargeurs and its employees and deliver a profitable return on the strategic demonstrated their exceptional agility, reaffir‑ investments committed in past years. During this med our commitment to social responsibility decade, in 2022, we will celebrate the Group's and people, and deployed new operations to In October 2019, 150th anniversary. Few companies can boast temporarily replace the ones impacted by the for the second of such longevity and of having lived through lockdown. We will maintain these efforts for as year in a row both good and more uncertain times. We’ve long as necessary. Chargeurs was demonstrated remarkable resilience and all While this unprecedented situation is creating included our initiatives in recent years have dramatically enormous economic uncertainty, which will naturally in the Gaïa Index strengthened our resources. impact us, your Group also intends to capitalize – the benchmark This seasoned experience is proving to be on all the changes we have led in recent years. sustainable especially valuable as 2020 gets underway. As development In 2019, all of Chargeurs’ businesses clearly we write this report, we are in the midst of proved their growth potential and resilience. index for listed the COVID-19 health crisis, which emerged French mid-caps. Impelled by their dedication to excellence, they in Asia and has now spread around the world. fulfilled the ambitions inspired by our Game Apparently, lockdown, financial crisis, crisis of Changer competitiveness program. That pro‑ morale and recession are the ingredients of gram is supporting our strategy of distinctive, a new economic cycle. But let me make this targeted acquisitions that are making Chargeurs clear: we are not worried about a possible new a world champion in segments with very high cycle. On the contrary, it would open up new potential for value creation, such as protection opportunities that could potentially accelerate for premium homebuilding materials, fashion our transformation. and luxury goods, and experience. Under these conditions, your Group has not only In 2019, revenue rose by a robust 9.2% to €626.2 ensured the absolute safety of its employees million, and recurring operating profit hit an around the world, but has also assertively taken all-time high of €41.4 million. These results mean unparalleled measures to repurpose its produc‑ that I can once again reaffirm my confidence tion facilities to meet the new needs created in reaching our target of more than €1 billion by this crisis. In fact, among the leading global in full-year revenue in 2021, with a normative manufacturers, Chargeurs was one of the first operating margin of more than 10%.
4 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document 2019, a year of transition with pivotal achievements for the future of the Group In a challenging, volatile business environment, Chargeurs successfully focused its resources on stepping up the pace of transformation. In 2019, the peak of the Game Changer transformation program was reached with the implementation of major capital projects, such as the start-up of the new techno-smart production line in Italy, that have brought additional premium production capacity Protective mask on-stream to help us meet our future objectives. As and sanitizing hand part of its responsible approach, Chargeurs pursued gel manufactured its premiumization strategy by massively greening by Chargeurs its solutions in every business line, while securing an unprecedented improvement in its financial flexibility. Another milestone on the way These efforts were a necessary step towards further to €1 billion in revenue 2021 strengthening our lead in every market in 2020. With High Emotion Technology®, its new global marketing signature that expresses all the emotional Creation of a global champion in museum wisdom of its solutions, the Group is forging its own services: Chargeurs Museum Solutions future, shaped by continuous innovation, inimitable In 2019, Chargeurs impelled the development of a new expertise and a highly demanding culture of service. premium niche market, museum services, which stand All our employees are deeply committed to giving as a new category of luxury cultural goods. Attesting to their very best to every stakeholder, demonstrating the business unit’s transformation, Chargeurs Museum the core values that unite them: reliability, passion, Solutions now brings together the world’s broadest commitment and boldness. portfolio of integrated museum exhibit services, wor‑ Lastly, the new acquisitions have broadened and king closely with world-renowned institutions, curators, deepened our portfolio of high-potential businesses, architects and designers. In this fast-growing, very high products and services, while confirming the validity value-added experiential luxury market, our presence of our profitable growth strategy, which, barring any across the museum project value chain means that we unforeseen changes in the economic environment, can offer customers around the world synergies and will deliver more than €750 million in full-year revenue seamless solutions unmatched anywhere on the planet. in 2020. This new world champion will enable the Group to win market share in new territories with high growth potential, such as the Middle East.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 5 Financial highlights
Chargeurs is a global manufacturing and services Group that holds leading positions in high value-added niche businesses.
REVENUE(1) EBITDA(2) RECURRING Chargeurs, (in € millions) (in € millions and OPERATING PROFIT(3) an innovative % of revenue) (in € millions and % of revenue) Group
59.8 60.0 626.2 49.0 Present 54.6 10.4% 9.6% 573.3 44.4 8.5% 533.0 48.8 10.2% 41.4 in more 498.7 506.4 38.9 8.3% 9.6% 6.6% than 40.3 7.7% 8.1% 30.6 6.1% 90 countries
201 201 201 201 2019 201 201 201 201 2019 201 201 201 201 2019 4 +26% since 2015 +49% since 2015 +35% since 2015 businesses ATTRIBUTABLE CASH FLOW(5) DIVIDEND NET PROFIT(4) (in € millions) PER SHARE 16 (in € millions) (in €) production 26.6 0.67 25.2 38.7 plants 25.0 36.6 36.9 0.60 0.55 30.0
15.3 15.1 24.1 0.40 0.30 16 laboratories
201 201 201 201 2019 201 201 201 201 2019 201 201 201 201 2019
More than -1% since 2015 +61% since 2015 +33% since 2015
2,000 2019 REVENUE BY REGION employees (in € millions) EUROPE 44% €274.1m — ASIA 32% €626.2m €202.2m in revenue in 2019 — AMERICAS 24% €149.9m — (1) See note 2.6 to the 2019 consolidated financial statements. (2) See note 2.7 to the 2019 consolidated financial statements and the financial glossary on section 8.7. (3) See note 2.8 to the 2019 consolidated financial statements and the financial glossary on section 8.7. (4) See note 9 to the 2019 consolidated financial statements. (5) See the financial glossary on page section 8.7.
6 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document History of the Group
Innovation and heritage since 1872 Since its founding in 1872, the Chargeurs Group has consistently stayed one step ahead of the major shifts in the French economy. Its current performance is led by a culture of constant innovation, backed by a sincere commitment to remaining true to its heritage. 2000 2014 1996 1872 1945 1970 1980 1990 CREATION CHARGEURS DIVERSIFICATION FRANCE’S REFOCUSING OF A GLOBAL RÉUNIS EXPANDS INTO TEXTILES, FIRST SPIN-OFF ON SPECIALTY GROUP ACROSS THE PLASTICS AND TRANSACTION MATERIALS French banker WORLD THE MEDIA Jérôme Seydoux Retaining its lead and businessman Chargeurs Réunis Jérôme Seydoux, separates the shareholders, Jérôme Jules Vignal creates creates the UTA airline a French captain manufacturing Seydoux and Eduardo Compagnie des and Causse-Walon, of industry who is the operations from Malone, Chargeurs Chargeurs Réunis a specialty overland largest shareholder the media empire strategically refocuses in 1872. transportation in Pricel, one in preparation for on high value-added The transatlantic company. The of Europe's leading what will be France’s technical businesses shipping line Group also diversifies textile groups, acquires first spin-off where it holds global operates the first by investing in a controlling stake transaction. leadership positions. regular services non-industrial in Chargeurs Réunis. The manufacturing In 2008, all of between France businesses, such He contributes Pricel’s empire is then the remaining and Latin America, as tourism, assets and makes refocused to form garment-making followed by services chemicals, finance Chargeurs the what is today the operations are between France and insurance. spearhead of a new Chargeurs Group. sold. After using and its empire Later, these interests industrial adventure the proceeds to in Africa and Asia. are gradually sold. for more than retire all of its debt, 30 years. Chargeurs Chargeurs steps up its acquires a controlling innovation strategy. interest in the Prouvost industrial empire and diversifies into media by taking over Pathé, investing in BSkyB, creating the La Cinq television station and purchasing Since the Libération newspaper. At the same time, Chargeurs 2015 disposes of its assets in maritime shipping, air transportation TRANSITION IN OWNERSHIP and overland AND CHANGE IN SCALE transportation. Jérôme Seydoux and Eduardo Malone sell their equity interest to Colombus Holding SAS, an investment company founded by Michaël Fribourg and dedicated to supporting the future of Chargeurs. Michaël Fribourg transitions the Group to a unique, distinctive excellence model, considerably strengthens the balance sheet, leads targeted acquisitions and deploys the Game Changer operational excellence plan. Chargeurs then successfully upscales its operations to become the global champion in high value-added niche markets.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 7 Outstanding achievements
Our outstanding achievements
The Game Changer operating performance acceleration plan has instilled discipline in our daily practices as we pursue our long-term vision. Since its launch in 2017, it has driven many outstanding achievements and initiated a number of highly promising new developments currently in the pipeline.
MANUFACTURING Optimization of supplier INNOVATION and customer logistics Disruptive innovations: across all businesses • Anti-moire effect for interlining • Re-engineering raw at CFT-PCC materials and • Launch of Sustainable Fifty logistics flows – the world’s largest range • Automating new of eco-responsible interlinings – production phases at CFT-PCC Investing in the industry • Commercial success of the future and of innovative Sublimis textile ranges game-changing • Anti-counterfeit protection for technologies: premium textile products at CTS, • Successful start-up using RFID chips of a new 4.0 production • The Hermès de l’Innovation line by CPF in Italy prize for excellence in the • Successful operation “Best creative synthesis” category, of the new high-tech honoring the Group's ability 40 gauge machine at CFT to create value • Mastering new Chargeurs Creative Collection: materials at CMS Launch of a new end-to-end • Sublimation printing offer of museum services solutions line at Leach • Managing high-tech projects in the museum heritage and conservation sector • Design and production of iconic decors and stagings that are revolutionizing the visitor experience • End-to-end design project solutions for all sectors
8 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document SALES AND MARKETING Developing bundled “products + services” solutions: • “Films + Machines” at CPF thanks to the acquisitions of Somerra, Omma and Walco in 2017 • “Textiles + Lightboxes” at CMS following the acquisition of Leach in 2018 Rollout of High Emotion Technology®, the global branding signature for all of the Group’s businesses Heightened visibility of our iconic B2B brands: • Novacel at CPF • Lainière de Picardie and Sustainable Fifty at CFT-PCC • Leach at CMS • Nativa Precious Fiber and Amédée Paris at CLM Working closely with our partners and expanding internationally: • Partnership with the Brooklyn Museum in New York for the landmark Pierre Cardin exhibition • Strengthening ties with major regional distributors in the United States for CMS • A new sales office in Abu Dhabi opened by CFT-PCC • A new sales office and services for North American customers of CMS
TALENT MANAGEMENT Development of new skills and operations: • Acquisition of MET Studio and Design PM at CMS: in-house development of new project-management businesses, creating a services arm dedicated to designing and fitting out museums Game Changer Plan: harmonizing our organizational structure focused on performance and talent development: • Agile organization: successful integration of PCC’s teams and adaptation of our structures • A more international management team: new hires with diverse profiles recruited across several continents to round out the team already in place • A more formal structure for our innovation operations • Implementation of a global Group system for HR management and skills monitoring And we pursued our cross-business projects (managerial training, shared best practices, mobility, etc.) that are creating a Group culture dedicated to excellence and shaped to support our overall corporate mission
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 9 OUR BUSINESS: CREATING ICONIC CHAMPIONS IN OUR HIGH VALUE-ADDED NICHE MARKETS
Chargeurs manufactures outstanding, innovative, reliable and bespoke products and services in global high-tech niche markets. All of our products share the same purpose: to contribute to our customers’ success by helping them improve their performance. Chargeurs’ four businesses leverage the synergies from engineers, marketers, textile specialists designers and chemists to deliver solutions seamlessly aligned with customer needs. With their proud heritage of expertise and innovation-driven culture, Chargeurs employees are united in their commitment to shared values.
10 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Protective Films PCC Fashion Technologies
Chargeurs Protective Films supplies Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies serves the construction, manufacturing the world's leading luxury and menswear and and electronics industries with womenswear brands. It designs interlinings, the only self-adhesive films for the temporary technical fabric used in garments, which keeps them protection of fragile surfaces. flexible and helps them to retain their shape.
TO FIND OUT MORE, PLEASE TURN TO PAGE 12 TO FIND OUT MORE, PLEASE TURN TO PAGE 13
CHARGEURS ×
Museum Solutions Luxury Materials
Chargeurs Museum Solutions – a leader in museum The world leader in high quality services – comprises a manufacturing arm made combed wool, Chargeurs Luxury up of Senfa, which specializes in technical textiles, Materials is strategically focusing and a services arm – Chargeurs Creative Collection – on outstanding, fully traceable high which is a global standard-setter for services value-added products for the global to cultural establishments. luxury and sportswear markets.
TO FIND OUT MORE, PLEASE TURN TO PAGE 14 TO FIND OUT MORE, PLEASE TURN TO PAGE 15
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 11 Our business
Chargeurs Protective Films
€278.1m €23.6m The world in revenue in 2019, in recurring operating profit in 2019 leader up 22.4% since 2015 in temporary surface protection For Chargeurs Protective Films, 2019 was marked by slowdowns in the German and Chinese markets, stemming from international trade talks on customs duties. However, the business continued to premiumize its products and expand its portfolio of bundled solutions, as well as announcing the successful start-up of its new Techno-Smart 4.0 production line one year ahead of schedule.
Chargeurs Protective Films manufactures of customer needs. Coating a film with self-adhesive films that protect fragile its specific adhesive and then applying 724 surfaces during production processes, it to the surface with a high-precision employees handling, transportation and fitting. laminator machine demand high-tech Any surface that must always look its expertise and seamless coordination best, such as sheets of plastic, stainless between the R&D and marketing teams. steel, aluminum or pre-coated metals, Chargeurs Protective Films demonstrated as well as PVC profiles, can be protected its innovation capabilities and commitment by a film engineered by Chargeurs to moving up the customer's needs chain Protective Films. The business serves more than by forming a new division, Chargeurs a very wide range of industries, from Protective Specialty Machines, to offer construction to electronics and appliances. bundled solutions. The innovative, 90% The protectable surfaces feature one-of-a-kind division has made the of revenue an infinite variety of physical and chemical business the global specialist in protective generated characteristics, which are constantly film application solutions, while sustainably in international changing as technology advances. lengthening its lead over the competition. markets Key factors in creating competitive differentiation include the outcomes from the business unit’s research and innovation laboratories and its in-depth understanding 4 production plants
4 R&D and quality laboratories
12 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Our business
Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies
€210.6m €17.5m The world leader in revenue in 2019, in recurring operating profit in 2019 in technical up 33.7% since 2015 textiles for the luxury In 2019, Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies delivered an excellent operating and fashion and financial performance, led by a strategy focused on customer experience, industries and it successfully integrated PCC Interlining. This transformative acquisition has strengthened the global market leadership of Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies by combining the two businesses’ robust, strategically related fundamentals.
Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies Technological innovation and agile is the world’s foremost expert in the responses to the latest fashion market production of interlinings for women’s trends are key to standing out from and men’s clothing. Interlinings are the the competition. Showrooms in Paris, 1,126 only technical fabric used in garments and Milan and New York position teams employees are essential for helping them retain their at the heart of global fashion and the shape and structure. They are generally latest collections. In this way, customers hot-fused between the outer fabric and can try out the interlinings on their lining in coats, jackets and shirts. prototypes and fabric samples to ensure that they deliver flawless performance. The increasingly technical nature of today’s more than garments is driving demand from the With the successful integration world's leading luxury and fashion brands, of PCC Interlining, Chargeurs PCC Fashion 90 % from ready-to-wear to fast fashion. Technologies has broadened its footprint of revenue Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies’ in the United States and Asia and has generated chemists and textile engineers are topped the €200 million revenue mark. in international constantly enhancing the value added The new amalgamation’s unprecedented markets of their interlinings by developing increasingly marketing clout and comprehensive higher performance innovations that offer range of products and services are customers opportunities to continuously strengthening its position as a world leader push back the boundaries of their creativity. and innovative champion in its markets. 7 production plants
7 R&D and quality laboratories
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 13 Our business
Chargeurs Museum Solutions
€37.3m €2.8m The world in revenue in 2019, in recurring operating profit in 2019 leader up 83.7% since 2015 in museum services Chargeurs Museum Solutions pursued its external growth in 2019 and created Chargeurs Creative Collection, a global standard-setter in museum services. Chargeurs Creative Collection – which is CMS’s second operating arm along with Senfa Technologies – is made up of Leach, Design PM and MET Studio, and constitutes a network of experts in the market for museum heritage management and visitor experience services. This network will be further reinforced in 2020 with the addition 189 of D&P and Hypsos. This strategic transformation will help Chargeurs Museum employees Solutions to top the €100 million revenue mark by end-2020.
Senfa functionalizes technical textiles and shoppers in the world’s leading used in the advertising, decoration, apparel chains. Additionally, the new interior design, home furnishings and acquisitions carried out in 2019 mean that building markets. Coating adds specific Chargeurs has the most comprehensive more than properties to a textile base, enabling museum heritage offer in the market, it, for example, to shade or diffuse covering all aspects of installations for 70% light, filter electromagnetic waves, visitor areas, museums and exhibits. dampen noise or fireproof a panel. of revenue Together, Senfa's technological expertise generated Forming part of Chargeurs Creative and the new Chargeurs Creative in international Collection, Leach is highly proficient Collection network are giving CMS markets in the art of creating disruptive and the artillery to enter new high-potential immersive visual experiences. Its segments in the museums market. lightboxes featuring printed and backlit CMS offers end-to-end integrated technical textiles offer an innovative, and bespoke solutions to the world's 2 unrivaled experience for museum visitors current and future leading museums. production plants: in Alsace (Senfa Technologies) and the United Kingdom (Leach Visual Solutions)
1 R&D and quality laboratory
14 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Our business
Chargeurs Luxury Materials
€100.2m €2.7m The world in revenue in 2019, in recurring operating profit in 2019 leader up 6.9% since 2015 in premium, certified and traceable In 2019, Chargeurs Luxury Materials topped the €100 million revenue mark. wool fibers It achieved this performance by pursuing its strategy of premiumizing its product range and successfully deploying its Nativa Precious Fiber label, the world’s leading label for certified, traceable premium-grade fibers designed for the most prestigious global luxury and sportswear brands. In addition, the launch of the online Amédée Paris brand of scarves and squares made of premium-grade fibers strengthened the business’ positioning in the luxury industry.
32 Chargeurs Luxury Materials’ expertise the world’s most demanding wool label, employees consists in selecting the finest, softest, which uses blockchain technology most resistant greasy wool tops from to ensure that the fibers are seamlessly producers worldwide. An optimized traceable “from the sheep to the shop”. business model based on firm contracts It provides the stand-out quality and enables the unit to produce, deliver and sustainable supply required by the world's track solutions for its customers, who rank most prestigious luxury and sportswear among the world’s most prestigious brands. 100% brands, while addressing their deep of revenue The only trader capable of offering concerns for animal welfare, resource generated customers wool from every producing management and land development. region, Chargeurs Luxury Materials in international This sustainable approach is now is increasingly engaged in the wool markets embodied in the online Amédée production process, working closely Paris brand, the Group's first with ranchers and stakeholders across B-to-C brand, whose promising the value chain. The high point of this launch attests to the growing interest commitment is Nativa Precious Fiber, 4 in high-quality, meaningful products. partner combing mills in the United States, Uruguay, Argentina and China
4 R&D and quality laboratories
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 15 Megatrends as seen by Chargeurs
Global challenges as new opportunities Chargeurs’ strategy reflects a complex, volatile world that is being reshaped by profound economic, technological, social and environmental change.
1 2 GLOBAL PREMIUMIZATION MOVING UP CONTINUES TO GAIN THE VALUE CHALLENGES MOMENTUM CHAIN 5 • • Premium markets are widening The perceived utility value their Non-recurring income of a manufactured product with commodities. Purchasing is enhanced when it is supported behavior is increasingly by services. In this case, determined by total cost the supplier is no longer of ownership analyses, which a manufacturer, but a provider tend to heighten the appeal of turnkey solutions. of branded products.
• • Chargeurs brands Customers want products that are recognized for their reliability inspire complete confidence and and quality. They set the standard make their lives easier. To position CHARGEURS’ of excellence in their businesses. itself further and further up the This premiumization strategy value chain, Chargeurs is targeting is helping to drive continuous acquisitions capable of bringing STRENGTHS improvement in our manufacturing it closer to end-customers. capabilities. The new “iconic” It is also developing solutions marketing approach is further built alongside customers and strengthening the positioning asserting its commitment to being of our products and services. a top-level technical partner.
16 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document not onlysupportshighlyresponsive Chargeurs hasdeployedaglobal, teams onthefront lines,listening manufacturing butalsopositions deliveries isbecomingmore and and marketingorganization that carefully tocustomerneedsand fragmentation ofmanufacturing regionally basedmanufacturing THE SUPPLY CHAIN more ofanissueascustomers and supplychains.Managing MORE COMPLEX capturing emerging trends. opt forjust-intimesystems Globalization iscausing IS BECOMING to optimizeinventory. 3 • • CHARGEURS has positionedtheProtective Films Techno-Smart 4.0production line of innovation,wecanproactively products isleadingcompanies of globalindustrialinnovation. customer needswithbundled, the emergence ofconnected business onthecuttingedge Thanks toChargeurs' culture successful launchofthenew respond totheseemerging ALL BUSINESSES
to completelyrevamp their OUR MISSION production processes and, Digital transformationand more generally, alloftheir end-to solutions.The business processes. ARE GOING Changer inourecosystem. Commitment andBoldness–toactasaGame our fourcore values–Reliability, Passion, andsuccess.Weperformance are leveraging and servicesthatimprove ourcustomers' We develophighvalue-addednicheproducts –2019Universal registration document DIGITAL 4 • • to resources, climatechangeandthe concerns, whichare influencinghow and isanintegralpartofourculture term impactsonbusinesses.Access products andservicesare designed society are havingshort-andlong allocation ofskillsare allconstant of opportunitiesandinnovations, of excellenceoverthelongterm. Responsibility isadeepreservoir Changes intheenvironment and and thewaytheyare marketed. At Chargeurs, CorporateSocial CSR ISEMBEDDED IN CORPORATE STRATEGY 5 • •
— 17 OUR STRATEGY
Since 2015, Operational excellence plans 2015: Performance, Discipline, Ambition program Chargeurs has pursued 2016: Chargeurs Business Standards a strategy designed 2017: Game Changer plan 2018: Iconic brand strategy to drive long-term, 2019: High Emotion Technology® structurally profitable growth, with the Premiumizing our solutions • Capital expenditure for very high value-added goal of delivering production capacity €1 billion in full-year • Disruptive innovations • Bundled “Films + Machines” and revenue in 2021 with “Textiles+ Lightboxes” solutions an operating margin • CSR as a continuous improvement driver of more than 10%. Transforming our corporate culture • A spirit of aggressive growth instilled in every business • Globalizing executive teams and organizations • Investing in distinctive talents
A targeted, accretive acquisition strategy • Moving up the value chain • Creating global champions in niche markets
18 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document International expansion
MORE THAN 93% Chargeurs generates 93% of its revenue in the global marketplace, with over 2,000 employees based in 35 countries on all five continents.
EUROPE 44% REVENUE €274.1m CREATION OF CHARGEURS CREATIVE PRODUCTION COLLECTION AT CMS PLANTS through the acquisition 7 of global champions in the DISTRIBUTION museum services market UNITS 17 OFFICES PARIS 13 NEW YORK EMPLOYEES 995 A NEW SALES OFFICE HONG KONG IN ABU DHABI FOR CFT-PCC AMERICAS New markets served ASIA 24% 32% REVENUE REVENUE €149.9m €202.2m PRODUCTION PRODUCTION PLANTS PLANTS 5 4 DISTRIBUTION DISTRIBUTION UNITS UNITS 13 12 OFFICES OFFICES 10 8 EMPLOYEES EMPLOYEES 322 778
* To find out more, please turn to pages 42 to 45.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 19 The Group's strategic vision
Game Changer, our operational excellence plan
Launched in September 2017, the Game Changer plan was MANUFACTURING designed in collaboration > Improving the performance with all of Chargeurs' teams of our production assets > Rationalizing our worldwide. It is giving production costs Chargeurs the resources > Reducing our non-quality costs to be a Game Changer TALENT in its niche industrial markets, MANAGEMENT
by leveraging the Chargeurs SALES > Implementing the new Business Standards. AND Excellence Training program MARKETING > Accelerating our Young Talents & Seasoned Managers program > Optimizing our >Developing the “soft skills” of our sales teams organizational structure > Improving customer intimacy > Developing new marketing tools
INNOVATION
> Reviewing our addressable adjacent markets > Accelerating the development of break-through innovations > Upscaling our innovation capabilities, footprint and network
4 DRIVERS FOR FASTER GROWTH AND HIGHER MARGINS:
• optimizing production processes • enhancing the sophistication of our sales and cost structures, to continuously and marketing methods, to make them improve productivity in each business; customer-focused and service-oriented;
• developing talents and • developing innovation capabilities, diversifying skills, to support in particular by identifying inter-business the premiumization of our synergies to increase the number products and services; of game-changing innovations.
20 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document The ongoing success of the Chargeurs Business Standards
THE CHARGEURS BUSINESS STANDARDS Chargeurs’ management model is adapted to its global presence on international markets and decentralized by business. The Group shares its clear vision and encourages the careful, continuous implementation of a strategy of excellence through the Chargeurs Business Standards. Thanks to meticulous management practices and specifically tailored systems, the Group fosters operational discipline and employee engagement in every aspect of its businesses across the globe.
SECURE THE GROUP’S SELL MORE AND BETTER LASTING SUCCESS • Micro-segment currently • A targeted, accretive acquisition served markets and enter and diversification strategy new niches • Low net debt and long-term • Focus on large accounts financial resources and high-potential emerging customers • A stable, methodical reference shareholder, committed to the • Encourage customers very long term to specify our products, gain market share ONGOING OPTIMIZATION • OF CHARGEURS • BUSINESS STANDARDS INNOVATE AND IMPROVE PRODUCTION MAKE A DIFFERENCE AND CUSTOMER SERVICE IN EVERYTHING WE DO • Extend our sales, manufacturing • A unique culture of innovation and logistics presence worldwide for a new generation of products • Re-engineer and premiumize and services our production plants and • Continuous deployment of the distribution units Chargeurs Business Standards • Systematically deploy productivity • An unrivaled strategy of sustainable and cost reduction programs competitiveness
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 21 The Group's strategic vision
Innovating FOCUS ON to push back INNOVATION Chargeurs PCC boundaries Fashion Technologies/ Sustainable Fifty Through its innovations, Launch of a new range of eco-responsible interlinings Chargeurs is driving the under the Sustainable Fifty transformation of its markets brand – a highly-innovated and constantly redefining and offering for the division’s customers. Sustainable Fifty pushing back its own boundaries. includes products made from 16 recycled or sustainable fibers, R&D centers Operating in global high-tech markets, certified by organizations such worldwide Chargeurs ensures that innovation is deeply as the Better Cotton Initiative rooted in its strategy. Whether incremental, or the Global Recycled Standard. disruptive, embodied in a product or embedded in a production process, innovation is a culture that informs everything we do.
Rather than an end in itself, Chargeurs believes that innovation is a way to keep pace with changing times, respond proactively to the expectations of its ecosystems and boldly imagine tomorrow’s solutions today. Because innovating also means knowing how to start with a blank slate, how to explore the road less traveled, while constantly capitalizing on our strengths. Chargeurs Protective Films That’s why we consistently listen to our environment, 2019 saw the successful with a clear focus on our customers. We nurture these relationships every day, eliminating the start-up of CPF’s new obstacles to thoroughly understanding how Techno-Smart 4.0 production their products are made and used, so that line. Thanks to its embedded we can design solutions that further improve intelligence, it offers their performance. a compelling example In this way, we can identify future bestsellers of the disruptive industrial and Game Changers, because our businesses management features being are so specific that innovation does not spring ushered in by Industry 4.0, just from the lab bench, but from the passion including 3D modeling, and pioneering spirit that inspire every one of our teams. process automation and big data management.
22 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Designer of Iconic Champions to create long-term value
Each of the Group’s brands In 2019, as part of the Game Changer A world leader − such as Novacel, Boston Tapes, plan, Chargeurs undertook to consolidate in all its businesses, Lainière de Picardie, PCC, DHJ, its brand portfolio, in each business, Senfa, Leach, Nativa Precious Fiber by rolling out a new, enhanced “ Chargeurs offers, and Amédée Paris − enjoys a strong iconic brands” strategy. This strategy reputation for innovation, reliability, was launched in 2018 and was stepped in each one, high quality, commitment and services. up in 2019 with the rollout of High Emotion Technology®, the Group’s value-added B2B In addition, all of our employees new global branding signature. High brands, with forefront demonstrate a culture of technical Emotion Technology® is helping all sophistication, which makes all of our of Chargeurs’ businesses to reinforce positions in their products and services absolute standards their brand identity with their customers of excellence and must-have components and strengthen their premium positioning, manufacturing niches. in our customers’ value chains. with a view to gaining market share.
Lastly, as part of its drive in recent years to intensify its green innovation – which has led to Deep Blue at CPF, Alterra at CMS, and Nativa Precious Fiber at CLM – the Group further stepped up its efforts in this domain in 2019, with the launch of the Sustainable Fifty brand, the world’s largest range of eco-responsible interlinings. This new offering has reinforced the Group’s ICONIC environmental leadership and is another CHAMPIONS key contributor to continuously improving New markets its sustainability. • A stronger, streamlined Greater market marketing offer opportunities • An exceptional, constantly enriched experience • Strategic customer • Cross-selling partnerships among the businesses • Wider customer • Digitizing every brand & product portfolios New • Exceptional products opportunities and services
Game Changer plan GLOBAL CHAMPIONS • Competitive edge
Chargeurs Business • Leadership & efficiency Standards • Greater market share • Revenue growth • Improved margins
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 23 The Group's strategic vision
A selective acquisition strategy
Since 2015, Chargeurs has carried out targeted acquisitions, creating champions in high value-added niche markets.
PROTECTIVE FILMS
£10m €9m in revenue in revenue • Disruptive vertical $27m integration in revenue • Moved up the value chain • Ability to offer • Strengthening leadership • Ability to offer end-to-end solutions in the United States bundled solutions • Adding production capacity in the USD zone
24 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Our criteria for acquisitions
Consolidate Move vertically Add new businesses current businesses up the value chain with high growth potential
Financial criteria • Profitable company, no turnarounds • Potential for improved performance • Value accretive price • Reasonable debt structure for the Group
A sustained acquisition strategy ** that creates value FASHION TECHNOLOGIES *
*
Still to come: • Game-changing bolt-on €65m acquisitions in revenue • Acquisitions to move up $82m • Pioneering the value chain in revenue international growth • An exhaustive offer • Created in museum heritage an innovative and visitor experience global champion • Strengthened service capabilities
* Acquisitions completed at the start of 2020. ** Acquisition in the process of being finalized.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 25 The Group's strategic vision
CSR at the heart of our performance
Our CSR policies are designed to drive inclusive, transparent growth, based SINCE JUNE 2017 on the highest standards of environmental Chargeurs is a signatory of the United Nations stewardship, working conditions, health, Global Compact safety and social equality. They are an integral part of our Chargers Business Standards and each of our businesses now have specific CSR objectives. 3 full-time CSR A CSR commitment officers, and over 30 CSR built on six pillars correspondents across Chargeurs' business units GOVERNANCE THE ENVIRONMENT • • Responsible corporate Protecting the environment governance to ensure means limiting our footprint the consistency of Chargeurs’ by diligently managing strategic vision our resources and supporting over the long term the circular economy
JUNE 2019 INNOVATION DIGITAL Chargeurs’ Executive • TECHNOLOGY Committee met Innovating to meet global • with its CSR officers challenges and add more value Investing in digital technology and correspondents to our customers’ products to secure the ties between to draw up a Sustainable Chargeurs and its ecosystem Development roadmap, which now includes TALENT Sustainable MANAGEMENT COMMUNITY Development Goals • ENGAGEMENT (SDGs) set by each Investing in our people of the business units • to sustain the Group’s and shared by them all. Supporting community growth and support initiatives that have a sustainably its future success positive impact on society
The SDGs are an integral part of the Group’s CSR strategy:
26 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Recognized ESG performance Chargeurs included in the Gaïa Index – the benchmark sustainable development index for listed French mid-caps – OUR PERFORMANCE for the second year in a row, INDICATORS IN 2019 with a score of 71/100(1)
(1) Versus an average 54/100 for the 230 companies in the Gaïa database.
GENDER EQUALITY SAFETY FOCUS ON TWO RESPONSIBLE 34% 10.17% SOLUTIONS of women in the frequency rate for Chargeurs Top 50 occupational accidents (on par with 2018) (vs.11.72% in 2018)
WATER CO2 Sustainable Fifty A range of 50 products -2% -2% designed to offer sustainable water consumption CO2 emissions interlining solutions to major in cubic meters per in metric tons fashion players million sq. meters per million sq. meters of production (Mm²) of production (Mm²)
A zero-emission 7% coating line of revenue generated Chargeurs Protective Films from green products has a new offering for its global customers – high-tech films produced by a new 4.0 production line that generates zero atmospheric emissions
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 27 Our business model
Our model for creating shared value
Global leadership positions in B-to-B manufacturing niches, offering distinctive products and services designed to become Iconic Champions.
NON-FINANCIAL DRIVERS OF OUR CORPORATE PERFORMANCE OUR RESOURCES
Chargeurs Chargeurs Protective PCC Fashion PEOPLE VALUE Films Technologies R&D 2,095 employees 32% women No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide 40 nationalities
• Innovation FINANCIAL AND MANUFACTURING Governance Talent RESOURCES management €25m in capital expenditure €9.6m in acquisitions €377.4m in purchasing (suppliers and sub-contractors)
• SALES AND DESIGN DISTRIBUTION CUSTOMER- ENVIRONMENTAL CENTRIC PERFORMANCE 239,748 MWh of energy used 650,420 cu.m of water used
• Community The engagement environment INTELLECTUAL CAPITAL Digital 16 R&D laboratories technology 1.89% of payroll invested in training Chargeurs Chargeurs Luxury Museum • Materials MANUFACTURING Solutions
SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY VALUE No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide • A demonstrated, assertive CSR commitment • An engaged foundation STRATEGIC AMBITION: (Chargeurs Philanthropies) To pioneer a manufacturing model that supports the circular economy €1 billion profitable in annual revenue end-2021
28 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document OUR STRATEGIC AMBITION On track towards €1 billion in revenue OUR CREATION OF VALUE
Our strategic ambition
1,000 PEOPLE VALUE 23 people hired in 2019 94% under permanent work contracts Revenue (in €m) 34% of women in the Top 50 626.2 573.3 • 506.4 533.0 498.7 FINANCIAL AND MANUFACTURING RESOURCES €626.2m in revenue €60.0m in EBITDA 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 93% of revenue generated outside France 1,000 million sq.m of films growth
By 2021 and interlinings produced Targeted Targeted
Like-for-like Like-for-like • acquisitions ENVIRONMENTAL PERFORMANCE
CO2 emissions per unit of production: -2% Sustained improvement in margins, led Water use per unit of production: -2% by the product mix and economies of scale Hazardous waste produced per unit of production -7% • Premiumization of the product INTELLECTUAL CAPITAL ranges and higher 24 Executives trained in the margins Game Changer plan in partnership with ESMT Berlin Blockchain innovation in securing a textile label 626.2 1,000 19 hours of training per employee • SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY VALUE
2019 2021 Closer partnership with the Brooklyn Museum Partnership with the FIT FROM WORLD CHAMPIONS in New York and the Louvre Museum Success of the Nativa Precious Fiber TO ICONIC CHAMPIONS consumer label
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 29 Governance A robust, engaged governance structure, supporting a long-term strategy
Board of Directors PERCENTAGE MEMBERS OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS AT DECEMBER 31, 2019 OF WOMEN ON THE BOARD Age Audit Compensation Acquisitions Date first Current term Committee Committee Committee elected/ expires 50% appointed at Dec. 31, 2019 Michaël Fribourg 37 Chairman 2021 AGM Director Oct. 30, 2021 Board Chairman and 2015 meeting Chief Executive Officer PERCENTAGE Board meeting (Chairman) OF INDEPENDENT 2023 Board DIRECTORS meeting (CEO)
Colombus 59 Member Member 2015 2022 AGM 50% Holding SAS, Board meeting at Dec. 31, 2019 represented by Emmanuel Coquoin
Isabelle Guichot 55 Chair 2016 AGM 2022 AGM Independent NON-VOTING director DIRECTOR Cécilia Ragueneau 46 Chair 2017 AGM 2020 AGM Independent 1 director Maria Varciu 47 Member 2019 AGM 2022 AGM Independent director MEETINGS Nicolas Urbain 58 Member Member 2015 2020 AGM Director* Board meeting
5 Georges Ralli 71 Non-voting 2016 AGM 2022 AGM Non-voting director director
* Nicolas Urbain was appointed director by the Annual General Meeting of May 6, 2019. ATTENDANCE RATE AUDIT COMPENSATION ACQUISITIONS 94% COMMITTEE COMMITTEE COMMITTEE • • • The Audit Committee has The Compensation Committee The Acquisitions Committee three members. Meetings are has two members. has three members. also attended by the Board’s non-voting director.
Committee deliberations are described in section 4, “Corporate Governance.”
30 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document OWNERSHIP STRUCTURE (% of shares outstanding at February 14, 2020)
Executive Committee EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE MEMBERS
MICHAËL FRIBOURG Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Chargeurs
OLIVIER JOËLLE BUQUEN* FABRE-HOFFMEISTER* Chief Financial Group Secretary Officer General and Chief Compliance Officer COLOMBUS LAURENT ANGELA SAMPIERO FEDERICO HOLDING SAS DEROLEZ CHAN LANFRANCHI* PAULLIER 27.5% Chief Executive Officer, Chief Executive Officer, Chief Executive Officer, Chief Executive Chargeurs Protective Chargeurs PCC Chargeurs Museum Officer, — Films Fashion Technologies Solutions and Advisor Chargeurs SYCOMORE ASSET to the Chairman Luxury Materials MANAGEMENT 10.4% — PHILIPPE CARINE TREASURY STOCK DENOIX* DE KOENIGSWARTER* Executive Vice President, Global Head 4.9% Industrial Performance of Communication, — & Supply Chain Head of the office OTHER of the Chairman and CEO SHAREHOLDERS 57.2%
* Member of the Select Executive Committee
The membership of the Executive Committee reflects Chargeurs’ decentralized operational structure, with the presence of a separate Chief Executive Officer for each of the four business units.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 31
01
BUSINESS OVERVIEW
1.1. CHARGEURS 1.4. CHARGEURS PROTECTIVE FILMS 34 LUXURY MATERIALS 46
1.2. CHARGEURS 1.5. ANALYSIS OF 2019 PCC FASHION CONSOLIDATED RESULTS 50 TECHNOLOGIES 38 1.6. A CULTURE OF 1.3. CHARGEURS MANUFACTURING MUSEUM SOLUTIONS 42 EXCELLENCE SERVING HIGH-END, DISTINCTIVE MARKETS 54 1.1. CHARGEURS PROTECTIVE FILMS
Business overview Chargeurs Protective Films .1.1 01
Chargeurs Protective Films
Chargeurs Protective Films is the global leader in its niche market, offering highly technical films that protect the quality of fragile surfaces at every stage in the manufacturing process (bending, stamping, profiling, etc.), as well as during handling, transportation and fitting. Its films are specifically used to protect surfaces that must always look perfect regardless of how they have been handled, such as glass, stainless steel, aluminum, pre-coated metals, PVC profiles and more.
hargeurs Protective Films’ By preserving a product’s surface comprehensive range of appearance throughout the products and services provide manufacturing process, Chargeurs impeccable protection for the Protective Films also helps customers Cmost fragile surfaces against smudging significantly lower their production Chargeurs Protective and scratching, while improving their costs. heat and stress resistance during Specialty Machines production and surface priming The surface protection market before final painting. The surface quality protection market is structurally growing, in step with world A precursor in its business, economic development. in 2017 Chargeurs Protective Protective solutions are in demand Films became the world’s for an extremely broad range of leading expert in laminators surfaces in a wide variety of sectors, from construction to electronics and by acquiring three companies, electronic appliances. They are also Somerra, Walco and Omma, needed for an increasingly diverse array and folding their capabilities Laurent Derolez of materials, including glass, copper, into a new division, Chargeurs Managing Director, zinc and rough or irregular surfaces that Chargeurs require a very high level of expertise. Protective Specialty Machines. Protective Films Leveraging its expertise in bespoke Today, the unit offers the surface protection solutions and world’s first range of bundled “Launched a year ahead of customer support services, Chargeurs solutions combining film, schedule in 2019, the new Protective Films is demonstrating its machines and services, powerful ability to drive continuous techno-smart production line innovation by deploying a enabling customers to apply dedicated to premiumization is differentiation strategy to push back protective films to their being ramped up as planned the boundaries of the business. Today, products directly on-site. its markets are being broadened and will be a powerful growth to include new uses, new types of driver for the business in 2020.” protectable surfaces and new and
34 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs Protective Films 01 .1.1
1 The world leader in temporary surface protection
724 employees 278.1 million euros in revenue in 2019 up 22.4% since 2015 unique features (low-noise unwinding, Protective Specialty Machines line of compatibility with laser cutting and laminators and the start-up in 2019 deep drawing manufacturing processes of the new techno-smart coating line, and recyclability). While the commodity which represents a truly game‑changing end of the market is very crowded, very innovation at the leading edge of the few producers can match Chargeurs fourth industrial revolution. Protective Films’ technical expertise, Chargeurs Protective Films’ global which guarantees incomparable production and distribution network reliability everywhere around the world. is a strategic asset for the business, 23.6 positioning it close to customers million euros Chargeurs Protective Films’ in each region and enabling it to in recurring competitive strengths meet their needs with fast local operating profit service. This proximity gives the As the global market leader, Chargeurs in 2019 offers a comprehensive range of business a competitive headstart and highly engineered self-adhesive unprecedented flexibility, not only to films, whose efficient adhesion to innovate with customers, but also to each material plays a critical role in proactively adapt to new requirements. preserving the quality of the finished Lastly, its successful strategy of product. The adhesive must be disruptive innovations gives deposited in a very thin, even layer, Chargeurs Protective Films an unrivaled ensuring that the film is absolutely technological lead in the surface quality flat and distortion free, so as not to protection market, making it the go-to damage the protected surface. partner for its customers. Novacel's In addition, Chargeurs Protective Films best-selling fiber laser cutting film, is constantly improving its industrial for example, was developed thanks competitiveness by opening up new to the unwavering dedication of the horizons, led by embedded intelligence marketing and R&D teams to meeting systems. Recent examples include the technical challenges of a new laser the roll-out in 2018 of its Chargeurs steel-cutting process.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 35 Business overview 01 1.1. Chargeurs Protective Films
Beyond-state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities Cutting-edge technology.
3 • PROCESS ENGINEERING Chargeurs Protective Films is highly proficient in coating and extrusion technologies. Coating 5 consists of depositing 1 a calibrated layer of 5 • QUALITY CONTROLS adhesive on film media Chargeurs Protective 1 • SURFACE produced by partners Films' products comply ANALYSIS on dedicated machines, with the REACH Working with the sales based on proprietary Regulation and other teams, the marketing Chargeurs formulas. applicable standards. department identifies 2 Extrusion consists of All of the production and analyzes the needs producing multi-layer machinery is inspected of the various temporary films from thermo-plastic regularly, in particular to surface protection markets polymers, including one ensure compliance with (stainless steel, pre-coated layer that is self-adhesive. environmental standards. metals, plastics, glass, etc.). After defining the critical issues, the related technical and financial 6 • WAREHOUSING data are sent to the AND SUPPLY CHAIN technical department. 3 The rolls of film are inspected, labeled and wrapped before being 2 • FORMULA shipped around the world. DEVELOPMENT Drawing on the specifications, the R&D 4 department defines the exclusive formula for each film and adhesive, 4 • TRANSFORMATION carefully aligned with The surface protection market expectations, the films are then re-rolled features of each surface or cut to size depending and the specific uses of the on the end-customer's 6 resulting self-adhesive film. applications.
36 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs Protective Films 01 .1.1
1
Breakdown of revenue by region
17%
50% 2019 Business review Illustrating its expertise in the 33% and Outlook management and oversight of Chargeurs Protective Films posted industrial transformation projects, €278.1 million in revenue in 2019, Chargeurs Protective Films stepped down 1.8% on the previous year. The up its premiumization strategy in 2019, year was marked by slowdowns in the committing capital expenditure that German and Chinese markets, which will yield high returns over the medium were impacted by international trade term and instilling the competitive 17% negotiations on customs duties. Since advantages that will sustain its growth 2015, however, revenue has increased momentum in 2020. Asia by a very robust 22.4%. Additional production capacity is being freed up for the division via the new 33% techno-smart production line that was Americas launched in Italy in mid-2019, a year FOCUS ON ahead of schedule. This new line – THE CONTINUING SUCCESS 50% which is dedicated to premiumization Europe – is being ramped up on schedule and OF INNOVATIVE, SUSTAINABLE will boost like-for-like growth going PRODUCT LINES forward. The extra capacity is forecast By constantly listening to its customers, to generate over €20 million in annual Chargeurs Protective Films brings revenue in 2020 and is therefore a disruptive new innovations to market every major organic growth driver for the year, to ensure consistently flawless quality division, while having a significant of service and anticipate and address accretive effect on operating margin. their needs and expectations. The Low 7 plants Recurring operating profit stood at Noise range, which significantly improves €23.6 million in 2019, for an 8.5% employee well-being by considerably margin in an especially volatile business dampening production line noise levels, environment. It was impacted by the continued to be a best-seller in 2019. additional costs related to the start-up In addition, in a further milestone in its of the new production line in Italy and commitment to sustainable growth, the the high point reached in the Game business unit has developed products Changer program. and solutions with smaller environmental footprints. One example is Deep Blue technology, which offers a more environmentally friendly alternative to conventional PVC for protecting surfaces during deep drawing processes. New innovations using biosourced, compostable and recyclable materials have already been brought to market.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 37 1.2. CHARGEURS PCC FASHION TECHNOLOGIES Business overview
CHARGEURS 01 1.2. Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies .1.2 PCC FASHION TECHNOLOGIES
Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies
Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies is the global leader in interlinings and other technical textiles for the luxury and fashion industries, providing comprehensive solutions to best-selling menswear and womenswear brands around the world. Interlinings are generally hot‑fused between the outer fabric and lining in coats, jackets, shirts and blouses to help them to retain their shape and stay sharp.
his niche business, which The interlinings market numerous achievements that allowed demands a combination of Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies speed, technical aptitude, serves customers in the luxury, to effectively execute its strategy aimed differentiation and expertise, ready‑to-wear and fast-fashion at becoming an iconic brand. The most Tleverages the capabilities of experts compelling example was the global industries, where market growth is in textiles (for knit interlinings) and driven by increasingly sophisticated market launch of the Sustainable Fifty chemicals (for the coatings) to create clothing and global supply chains. line of particularly environmentally interlinings suitable for the constantly Leading fashion brands work in friendly products. The division’s changing array of fabrics used by the “nomination” mode whereby a given customer service culture is what world’s leading luxury and fashion product is “nominated” for use in sets it apart from its peers, driving brands. Chargeurs PCC Fashion making their garments, so that their it towards increasingly upscale Technologies’ light, supple interlinings (mainly Asian) apparel-makers and niches in the interlinings market. The ensure that the future garments other stakeholders then source that showrooms in Paris, New York and will perfectly retain their shape and product from the nominated supplier. Milan enable customers, guided by flexibility. inhouse experts, to test selected In this type of luxury business, Chargeurs PCC Fashion new interlining solutions and save close relationships with customers Technologies’ competitive valuable time through more flexible are a game-changing competitive strengths production methods and supply chain opportunity to recommend informed Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies optimization. and bespoke solutions and optimize markets a comprehensive range With the acquisition of PCC Interlining quality and speed of service in a market of highly engineered interlinings in August 2018, this commitment to where collections are rolled out at an that is constantly renewed by the customer service was taken to the next increasingly faster pace. This customer development of new fabrics. The level. In addition to broadening the intimacy is also a source of market business has acquired or developed global geographical footprint in the intelligence, which is why the business tools and technologies that enable United States and Asia, the alliance is present in the global luxury nerve it to knit the thinnest interlinings on has driven the emergence of extensive centers of Paris, New York and Milan, the market, in particular thanks to the sales and marketing synergies. PCC but also in the emerging international recently developed 40-gauge machine. has a leading position in the areas trendsetting capitals of Asia. All of the product and service lines are of technical interlinings for fashion capable of technically outperforming brands and emerging global fashion the competition. 2019 was a retailers, areas in which flexibility and particularly dynamic year, featuring responsiveness are major assets.
38 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies 01 .1.2
The world leader 1 in technical textiles for the luxury and fashion industries 1,126 employees 210.6 million euros in 2019 Business Review steps have enabled Chargeurs PCC and Outlook Fashion Technologies to extend its revenue in 2019 Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies footprint in each of its geographic up 33.7% since 2015 delivered another excellent regions, especially in Asia. performance, with revenue surging Buoyed by its position as a global +30.7% to €210.6 million, powered leader in technical textiles for the luxury by the successful integration of PCC and fashion industries, Chargeurs PCC Interlining. The business also turned in Fashion Technologies has the solid an outstanding operating performance, fundamentals it needs to drive faster with recurring operating profit of growth in value creation. €17.5 million. This represented an increase of 18.2%, led by the successful 17.5 integration of PCC and the creation of million euros a global sourcing organization, even as growth-related operating expenditure Angela Chan in recurring continued to be committed to move Managing Director, operating profit the business further upmarket. Chargeurs PCC Fashion in 2019 2019 was a particularly dynamic year, Technologies featuring numerous achievements that allowed Chargeurs PCC Fashion "2019 was a very eventful year Technologies to effectively execute its strategy aimed at becoming an iconic of further progress and new brand. For example, the division made achievements, including the optimal use of its product development successful integration of PCC. center to design state-of-the-art "smart" and high-performing products. We’ve entered 2020 with the It also launched "Sustainable Fifty” objective of strengthening – a full range of interlinings made of our market positioning as the eco-responsible materials – and set up new training programs and strategic world's leading manufacturer partnerships across the world. These of interlinings.”
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 39 Business overview Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies .1.2 01
Technologies and expertise representing high entry barriers A management model based on a culture of excellence across all core processes.
6. SYSTEMATIC INSPECTION Each meter of fabric on the roll is inspected as it leaves 1 • WARPING the production line. The The first stage in the cutting and packaging/ production process. labeling processes are The yarn is wound onto 3 fully computerized. All the warping beam for of the interlining rolls are transfer to the knitting unit. 3 • FINISHING inspected meter by meter. AND DYEING The substrates are stabilized using a chemical or thermal process, retaining the degree of suppleness needed for its application to the most difficult fabrics. The dyeing 4 unit is used to produce 1 the interlining in the most 6 on-trend colors. More than 5 60% of our products are dyed. 7. GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN OPERATIONS 4 • COATING AND PERFORMANCE Small drops of Once the interlining rolls thermo‑adhesive resin are have been inspected, applied to the fabric using labeled and packaged, a perforated cylinder. 2 they are cataloged by Infrared readers check 5 • TOTAL stock-keeping unit in the that the resin is properly QUALITY CONTROL 2 • KNITTING warehouse before being applied. The one-of-a-kind Quality controls are shipped around the world. Each knitting machine is Global Molecular Point performed on each connected to a computer (GMP) coating process, production batch at various that checks production which was developed and stages in the process, and quality in real time. patented by Chargeurs covering the products' 40 gauge means that the PCC Fashion Technologies, quality, stability, bond weft comprises 40 stitches helps to prevent seepage strength, suppleness and per inch. and significantly increases feel. bond strength when the interlining is hot-fused between the garment 7 fabric and the lining.
40 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies 01 .1.2
1
Breakdown of revenue by region
27%
11% 62%
11% Americas 27% Europe
62% Asia
FOCUS ON INNOVATION IN INTERLININGS, TO PUSH BACK THE BOUNDARIES OF THE BUSINESS 7 Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies supports the creative plants vision of the global fashion industry with technological exploits that are increasingly setting it apart from the competition. The anti-moire effect interlinings, which prevent this undesirable effect in light and thin womenswear fabrics, have been hugely popular since their introduction in 2017. In addition, the business has pushed innovation towards new features, such as moisture management, seamless fabrics and elasticity. After the faster development of sustainable and environmentally friendly products in 2018, led by the extension of the "Eco In" range of interlinings made from recycled polyester yarn, Chargeurs stepped up its green offensive in 2019. In particular, it strengthened its environmental leadership by launching the world’s broadest range of eco-responsible interlinings under the Sustainable Fifty brand. Its lineup includes products made from recycled or sustainable fibers, certified by such global reference organizations as the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) or the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 41 1.3. CHARGEURS MUSEUM SOLUTIONS Business overview
CHARGEURS 01 1.3. Chargeurs Museum Solutions .1.3 MUSEUM SOLUTIONS
Chargeurs Museum Solutions
Chargeurs Museum Solutions is the world leader in museum services. It comprises a manufacturing division, Senfa Technologies, whose plant which opened in Sélestat in the Alsace region of France 40 years ago, produces printed and functionalized textiles for the advertising, decoration, home improvement and building markets. Its new services division, Chargeurs Creative Collections, sets the global market standard in services for cultural institutions.
oating technology, which is multi-talented, multi-disciplined teams a core competency shared proficient in every aspect of visitor by three of Chargeurs’ four space, museum and exhibit installations Sampiero business units, enables Senfa and graphic displays. Lanfranchi CTechnologies to functionalize textiles Managing Director, for specific applications, such as the The museum heritage and the Chargeurs Museum shading or uniform diffusion of light, visitor experience market Solutions and soundproofing or electromagnetic The new Chargeurs Creative Adviser to the wave (GSM, WiFi) filtering. These Collection business unit offers Chairman functionalities can also be combined customers a comprehensive array to create large advertising displays on of museum heritage management “After a year of transformative which the fabric can diffuse light, be and visitor experience solutions, acquisitions for Chargeurs fireproofed and printed in very high ranging from project planning to the resolutions. turnkey delivery of exhibitions and Museum Solutions in 2019, Following the acquisition in 2018 innovative environments. Its teams’ 2020 will be a year of growth of Leach, the UK leader in large solid expertise, underpinned by for our global museum format graphic displays, the latest sophisticated logistics and long-term acquisitions of very high value-added customer relationships, represents exhibit services business, international champions in 2019 a major competitive advantage that consolidating our position enabled the creation of a new business Chargeurs has successfully created in as the world leader in this unit, Chargeurs Creative Collection, recent years. with capabilities across the museum Positioned in the downstream value new market.” heritage management and visitor chain, Leach is a forefront partner, experience value chain. Perfectly widely recognized for its distinctive, design are driving market growth. positioned in a new fast-growing, very very high quality capabilities. Backlit The recent acquisitions of international high value-added experiential luxury lightboxes are marketed to retail chains champions have also moved the Group market, it offers a portfolio of solutions and museums, and visual marketing, up the value chain by offering not unmatched anywhere in the world, premium interior decoration, and only project management capabilities supported by an organization of high‑impact and disruptive exhibition but also a range of creative and
42 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs Museum Solutions 01 .1.3
1
The world leader in museum services
189 employees 37.3 technical solutions across the project services, working with world-renowned million euros in timeline, including final installation. institutions, curators, architects and revenue in 2019 The European, American, Asian designers. In recent years, the sales and Middle Eastern markets are network has been strengthened to up 83.7% experiencing strong growth, particularly enable the business to deploy these since 2015 in the experience, technology and solutions around the world. In 2019, services segments. Around the world, the unit stepped up its growth in the museums are becoming new temples, high-potential North American market celebrating nature, history and human by opening a new sales and services creativity. office in the United States and forging By resolutely positioning itself in new partnerships with large accounts high‑end solutions, Chargeurs Museum and regional retailers. By leveraging Solutions stands out in markets that are its continuous innovation strategy, 2.8 more difficult for smaller companies to Chargeurs Museum Solutions is able million euros in penetrate, emerging as a new world to deliver exceptional, increasingly recurring operating leader in a segment at the crossroads high‑quality services and offer ever profit in 2019 between luxury and culture. more innovative, holistic solutions, while eliminating agents and go- Chargeurs Museum Solutions’ betweens. This is enhancing market competitive strengths visibility, while transforming the Chargeurs Museum Solutions business unit into a source of solutions offers a comprehensive range co-built with customers. of functionalized fabrics aligned with today’s expectations, such as 2019 Business review sound‑absorbing interior decoration and Outlook fabrics or the new possibilities offered Chargeurs Museum Solutions delivered by curved, two-sided or four-sided very strong growth in 2019, with lightboxes. In addition, the Group revenue up +21.5% year on year to now offers the world’s broadest €37.3 million. The unit underwent range of integrated museum exhibit radical and strategic transformation
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 43 Business overview Chargeurs Museum Solutions .1.3 01
The management of excellence in core processes An integrated, carefully controlled production process.
3 • COATING Fabrics are coated with resin-based foam. Unique production resources mean textiles can be 5 1 coated in widths of up to 5 meters. 5 • CONTINUOUS 1 • TEXTILES QUALITY CONTROLS The fabrics have clear Tests are conducted characteristics and at each stage in the innovative materials have production process to been developed. ensure that the textiles' technical characteristics comply with the highest health and safety 3 standards. 6 • BUILDING LIGHTBOXES Teams of craftsmen, 2 electronics engineers and optics specialists build the 2 • FORMULA frame on which the printed DEVELOPMENT AND fabrics are stitched. PASTE COATING FORMULATION The R&D teams develop and engineer 4 coating formulations, in compliance with the 4 • INSPECTION technical specifications Each roll of coated textile and quality standards of is inspected as it leaves our markets. the production line 6 to guarantee that the product’s performance is in line with the customer's specifications.
44 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs Museum Solutions 01 .1.3
1
Breakdown of revenue by region
6%
18%
76%
during the year, enabling it to position The systematic transformation of this itself as the global market leader business since 2018, combined with in museum heritage and visitor the acquisition of D&P, will enable 6% experience services for museums Chargeurs Museum Solutions to top Americas around the world. The acquisition in the €100 million full-year revenue mark first-quarter 2020 of D&P, the largest and deliver more than €10 million in US provider of integrated museum recurring operating profit by end-2020. 18% solutions, has cemented its position as Asia a global champion in museum services and strengthened the Group’s portfolio of high-potential businesses. Sales 76% growth in 2019 was primarily driven by FOCUS ON Europe Leach and the acquisitions of Design AN INDUSTRIAL ASSET PM and MET Studio. These companies, THAT NURTURES INNOVATION along with D&P, whose acquisition was Outstanding examples of Chargeurs completed in the first quarter of 2020, Museum Solutions’ ability to drive Hypsos, whose acquisition is in the continuous innovation include the Pearl process of completion, and Leach, now coated substrate, which ideally diffuses make up Chargeurs Creative Collection, light thanks to a micro-bubble process, 2 the services arm of Chargeurs Museum the Estompe range of electromagnetic plants Solutions. A solutions provider in wave filtering substrates, and the museum services market with an the eco‑designed Alterra fabric. offering that is the only one of its kind Today, research is moving forward to in the world, it manages projects from improve the products’ environmental start to finish, from the planning to performance. For example, the the final delivery of exhibitions and business has narrowed its offering innovative environments. around Sublimis, which was voted The division’s recurring operating product of the year at the SGIA Expo profit of €2.8 million in 2019 reflects a printing technology trade show in technical decline linked to the increase Las Vegas in 2018. Because it can be in capital expenditure and new hires to printed with aqueous inks, which are prepare for the new acquisitions. more environmentally friendly than UV inks, Sublimis has become the benchmark in the American market, where it offers a more effective response to the needs of local printers and retailers.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 45 1.4. CHARGEURS LUXURY MATERIALS Business overview
CHARGEURS 01 1.4. Chargeurs Luxury Materials .1.4 LUXURY MATERIALS
Chargeurs Luxury Materials
Chargeurs Luxury Materials supplies the world's finest, softest wool fibers to the most prestigious global brands. The world leader in premium combed wool trading, the business unit is strategically focused on outstanding, extremely high value-added products.
hargeurs Luxury Materials is Nativa has certified Amédée Paris, specialized in the procurement the first digital B-to-C luxury brand of the finest greasy wool from of premium scarves and squares sold carefully vetted producers exclusively online, which was launched Cworldwide. The business model is in 2018. In 2019, the brand opened optimized, with contracts hedged with several sales outlets, including one in forward sale contracts. a leading Paris luxury hotel on Place The greasy wool is washed, carded and Vendôme. combed in partner combing mills to form the tops – broad ribbons of fine, The premium wool market Federico pure wool marketed to spinning mills. In the luxury wool market, procurement Paullier The Chargeurs Luxury Materials sales cycles are long and stable, with two Managing Director, teams then track and deliver the right or three-year contracts guaranteeing Chargeurs Luxury solution to each customer, taking care customer loyalty as long as quality Materials to match supply and demand. remains the same. Commodity wool, Blockchain technology ensures that on the other hand, is purchased from “Chargeurs Luxury the wool is seamlessly traceable “from traders, leaving customers with little Materials delivered a robust the sheep to the shop.” As part of its visibility across the production chain. constant commitment to sustainable Demand is steadily rising for performance in 2019, shaped sheep farming, Chargeurs Luxury exceptionally high-quality, by the sustained deployment Materials developed Nativa Precious game‑changing fibers with processes of the premiumization strategy Fiber, the world's most demanding that respect the entire chain of eco-responsible quality label. Today, stakeholders involved in their and the roll-out of its luxury it is the leading label for certified, production. Obviously, these features brand, Amédée Paris.” traceable premium-grade fibers are becoming an important buying designed for the most prestigious criterion for a large number of global global luxury and sportswear brands. brands and shoppers.
46 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs Luxury Materials 01 .1.4
1 The world leader in premium, certified, traceable wool fibers 32 employees 100.2 million euros in revenue in 2019 A number of global labels have could have been created and the only up 6.9% since 2015 been created to certify compliance way to guarantee customer loyalty. with these very high quality and Being positioned both globally and sustainability standards: ZQ Merino locally enables the business to offer (developed by New Zealand Merino), a broad range of wool fibers, sourced Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) from six countries with a proud heritage and Global Organic Textile Standard of sheep raising and wool production. (GOTS). The Nativa label meets all At the same time, its deep local roots their criteria and extends compliance enable it to carefully monitor conditions by including every stakeholder across on sheep farms and in its partner the entire value chain, from buyers to combing mills, as part of a holistic 2.7 sheep farmers. value chain approach. million euros in The Nativa Precious Fiber label is recurring operating Chargeurs Luxury Materials’ designed to become a “must have” profit in 2019 competitive strengths that triggers the end customer’s Chargeurs Luxury Materials is decision to buy. Its guarantees positioned in highly distinctive could become an effective source of premium wool markets, served by a differentiation for leading luxury brands small number of suppliers and growing and later, by extension, for premium faster than commodity wool markets. brands. A key source of differentiation are the very long-term relationships nurtured with sheep ranchers and combing mills, sometimes over decades. These close partnerships are the only way that a label as strict as Nativa Precious Fiber
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 47 Business overview Chargeurs Luxury Materials .1.4 01
"From the sheep to the shop" Blockchain technology Global and local expertise with a strict policy of transparent communication with suppliers and customers.
standard that certifies 2 • ORGANIC WOOL 3 • PARTNERING that sheep are treated CERTIFIED TO GLOBAL WITH NEW ZEALAND with respect to their Five ORGANIC TEXTILE MERINO TO OFFER Freedoms (Freedom STANDARDS (GOTS) ZQ WOOL, AN from Hunger and Thirst, Recognized as the world's EXCEPTIONALLY Freedom from Discomfort, leading processing HIGH QUALITY, Freedom from Pain, Injury standard for textiles made TRACEABLE FIBER or Disease, Freedom to from organic fibers, GOTS ZQ Wool is a line of 1 Express Normal Behavior is based on stringent exceptionally high quality, and Freedom from environmental criteria traceable wool launched by The New Zealand 1 • RESPONSIBLE WOOL Fear and Distress). It throughout the entire Merino Company to guide STANDARD (RWS) also ensures that sheep organic textiles supply farmers comply with best chain, as well as requiring consumers in their clothing CERTIFICATION practices in managing compliance with social choices with the slogan Traceability is a core and protecting their criteria. "You are what you wear". component in the land. Today, Chargeurs Chargeurs model. Luxury Materials is In recognition of its stepping up its strategic exceptional traceability focus on premium, and sustainability high value-added performance, Chargeurs products. By combining Luxury Materials’ premium unrivaled expertise and wool label, Nativa Precious discernment, it offers a Fiber, has been certified compelling response to RWS since 2018. RWS is growing demand from 2 an independent, voluntary leading global brands for certified, traceable fibers. 4
4 • USE OF NON-MULESING PRACTICES Chargeurs Luxury Materials is committed to using 3 non‑mulesing practices both in Latin America and in Australia and New Zealand.
48 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview Chargeurs Luxury Materials 01 .1.4
1
Breakdown of revenue by region
17%
50% 33%
17% Asia
33% Americas
50% Europe 2019 Business review FOCUS ON and Outlook AMÉDÉE PARIS, In 2019, Chargeurs Luxury Materials AN INNOVATIVE exceeded €100 million in revenue and AND DISTINCTIVE BRAND successfully deployed its Nativa Precious IN THE PREMIUM SQUARES Fiber label. Recurring operating profit MARKET ended the year at €2.7 million, stable The Amédée Paris brand vividly 4 compared with 2018. partner illustrates Chargeurs' ability to Until the middle of the year, wool prices combing mills held firm and drove sales growth but in position itself in an iconic way. It the second half they fell sharply, which demonstrates both exceptional led to a slowdown in business for both expertise and a commitment to wool spinners and producers, which revitalizing luxury design with a explains the weaker performance. collection of scarves and squares made from premium Nativa The business nevertheless pursued its Precious Fiber certified Merino strategy of premiumizing its product wool. The accessories are marketed range, in particular by launching its predominantly online, to both Amédée Paris digital brand, specialized consumers and prestigious B to B in scarves and squares made of partners. In this way, Chargeurs premium fibers, and strengthening Luxury Materials is moving up the its positioning in the luxury goods wool value chain by offering products industry. to end customers. Building on a strong start in 2018, the business stepped up its marketing drive in 2019 with prestigious new partners in leading hotels, museums and other exclusive venues.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 49 1.5. ANALYSIS OF 2019 CONSOLIDATED RESULTS
1.5. ANALYSIS OF 2019 CONSOLIDATED RESULTS Business overview 01 1.5. Analysis of 2019 consolidated results Analysis of 2019 consolidated results
1.5.1. REVIEW OF THE CONSOLIDATED RESULTS FOR THE YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 2019
CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS 2019
Twelve months Change 19/18 Change (in euro millions) 2019 2018 2015 gross like-for-like 19/15 Revenue 626.2 573.3 498.7 +9.2% -1.2% +25.6% EBITDA 60.0 59.8 40.3 +0.3% +48.8% as a % of revenue 9.6% 10.4% 8.1% Amortization (18.6) (10.8) (9.7) Recurring operating profit 41.4 49.0 30.6 -15.5% +35.3% as a % of revenue 6.6% 8.5% 6.1% ATTRIBUTABLE NET PROFIT 15.1 26.6 15.3 -43.2% -1.3%
Revenue for 2019 came to €626.2 million, up 9.2% on 2018 and 25.6% Leach, Design PM and MET, offset by the increase in growth-related on 2015. This robust growth was driven by the successful integration operating expenditure. of PCC Interlining and the acquisitions carried out by Chargeurs Museum Solutions (formerly Chargeurs Technical Substrates). Recurring operating profit came to €41.4 million, or 6.6% of revenue, reflecting the more volatile business conditions in Germany and Consolidated EBITDA amounted to €60.0 million, representing China and the increase in growth-related operating expenditure. 9.6% of revenue. It included gains from the annual productivity plan (€6.4 million), the application of the new IFRS 16 standard Net profit stood at €15.1 million for the year, after €2.5 million since January 1, 2019 (€7.0 million) and the consolidation of PCC, in amortization of intangible assets linked to acquisitions and €7.0 million in non-recurring expenses, primarily related to acquisitions completed or still in progress.
50 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview 1.5. Analysis of 2019 consolidated results 01
1.5.2. FINANCIAL STRUCTURE
(in euro millions) 2019 2018 EBITDA 60.0 59.8 Other operating income and expense (7.0) (7.7) Cost of net debt and interest on leases (10.8) (8.9) 1 Income tax paid (3.3) (6.0) Other (0.2) (0.3) CASH GENERATED BY OPERATIONS 38.7 36.9 Dividends from equity-accounted investees 0.1 - Change in operating working capital (13.3) (22.5) OPERATING CASH FLOWS 25.5 14.4 Transfer linked to IFRS 16 8.7 - Acquisition of PPE and intangible assets, net of disposals (24.4) (23.7) Acquisitions of subsidiaries, net of cash acquired (9.6) (65.3) Other investing cash flows (0.7) (1.6) Share buybacks (9.8) (10.2) Cash dividends paid to owners of the parent (8.6) (10.8) Repayment of lease liabilities (9.7) - Other (0.1) (0.4) Currency effect (1.5) (3.5) CHANGE IN NET CASH/(NET DEBT) (30.2) (101.1) Opening net cash/(net debt) (92.2) 8.9 CLOSING NET CASH/(NET DEBT) (122.4) (92.2)
Chargeurs’ financial position remained robust in 2019, with equity In addition, the Group augmented its financial headroom during the attributable to owners of the parent totaling €232.4 million at year-end. year. First, it successfully renegotiated the indenture for its Euro PP notes issued in 2016 and 2017, enabling it to remove the leverage At December 31, 2019, Chargeurs showed net debt of €122.4 million, covenant, lower the gearing requirement to 1.2x, and extend by an increase from €92.2 million a year earlier that was primarily three years the maturities of the Euro PP notes originally scheduled attributable to the acquisitions carried out during the year. to mature in 2023 (thereby increasing average debt maturity and staggering repayments). Second, the Group extended the maturity At year-end, the Group had €162.0 million in undrawn confirmed of its syndicated credit facility's revolving credit line for an additional credit facilities. year, to December 2024.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 51 Business overview 01 1.5. Analysis of 2019 consolidated results
1.5.3. CAPITAL EXPENDITURE IN 2017-2019
The Group makes investments to encourage growth.
The tables below present the capital expenditure committed in 2017, 2018 and 2019:
(in euro millions) 2019 2018 2017 Property, plant and equipment 23.2 23.1 13.4 Intangible assets 1.7 1.5 0.6 TOTAL 24.9 24.6 14.0
(in euro millions) 2019 2018 2017 Europe 17.3 21.9 10.8 Asia-Oceania-Pacific and Africa 1.3 1.3 2.5 Americas 6.3 1.4 0.7 TOTAL 24.9 24.6 14.0
In 2019, a year ahead of schedule, Chargeurs commissioned the world’s only techno-smart 4.0 production line in Italy, in what was a major, game-changing investment for the Chargeurs Protective Films business. This structural internal investment represents over €20 million.
52 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview 1.5. Analysis of 2019 consolidated results 01
1.5.4. OUTLOOK
Now that the customs duties situation has been clarified, the Group Since 2015, the Group has successfully expanded its footprint on five should be able to capitalize on the investments it has made under the continents and diversified around its four niche businesses. This strategy Game Changer program and reap the benefits of deferred demand is now helping to attenuate the impact of the crisis on its operations, in the United States and stronger momentum in 2020. Thanks to which has so far tracked the pace of the epidemic’s spread. However, the return on the Game Changer investments and acquisitions, and it is very likely that Chargeurs’ activities will be adversely affected by 1 provided that economic conditions remain the same as in 2019, the crisis for as long as it persists, to varying degrees of intensity and the Group expects to see a sharp increase in recurring operating duration depending on the business and the geography. In addition, margin and cash generation in 2020. from the outset, the Group has taken measures to maintain ample liquidity, supported by the strategy to enhance its financial flexibility Thanks to our achievements under the Game Changer plan and the that was implemented back in 2015 and stepped up throughout 2019, recently-announced changes for Chargeurs Creative Collection, we which provides a degree of resilience. are more confident than ever that we have got our profitable growth strategy right. A strategy that, barring any unforeseen changes in Lastly, in response to the shortages of protective masks and the economic environment, will allow us to exceed €750 million hydroalcoholic gel encountered in France and several other in annual revenue for 2020, and top the €1 billion annual revenue countries, the Group has directed its teams to repurpose part of mark by end-2021, with recurring operating margin of over 10%. its production capacity to manufacture protective equipment, in particular for use by healthcare and other exposed professionals. In response to the COVID-19 health crisis, the Group has organized Moreover, capitalizing on its expertise and in-depth knowledge of its operations to provide greater flexibility and resilience in a shifting, the worldwide textile industry, Chargeurs has commissioned the uncertain environment. Chargeurs’ two priorities are now to protect production of masks, under its supervision and strict control, for all its employees through the deployment of a contingency plan public and private-sector customers. in every production facility and office, and to continue serving its customers by doing everything possible to ensure continuity of supply. This mobilization, in record time, attests to the responsiveness and commitment of Chargeurs, which has always supported the public interest in every circumstance since its founding in 1872.
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 53 1.6. A CULTURE OF MANUFACTURING EXCELLENCE SERVING HIGH-END, Business overview DISTINCTIVE MARKETS 01 1.6. A culture of manufacturing excellence serving high-end, distinctive markets 1.6. A CULTURE OF MANUFACTURING EXCELLENCE SERVING HIGH-END, DISTINCTIVE MARKETS A culture of manufacturing excellence serving high-end, distinctive markets
CHARGEURS CHARGEURS CHARGEURS CHARGEURS THE CHARGEURS MODEL PROTECTIVE FILMS PCC FASHION TECHNOLOGIES MUSEUM SOLUTIONS LUXURY MATERIALS
Use of cutting-edge ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ technologies A policy of continuous A commitment to continuous Creation of the world's Development of innovative products 13% of products less than 5 years old Total traceability of wool sold technological innovation technological innovation thinnest interlining recognized by their peers embraced by all 4 business units Operation of the first Pioneering development with the Leading-edge equipment Start-up of a techno-smart 4.0 Investment in more environmentally friendly Disruptive innovations ultra-thin (40-gauge) launch of a blockchain system in key plants production line in Italy printing technologies, such as dye sublimation in every business unit A CULTURE technical knitting machine involving all stakeholders OF EXCELLENCE 7 plants in Europe, Asia-Pacific, 16 manufacturing units, ACROSS ALL A globally balanced 7 sites in Europe 4 industrial partnerships in North America, South America 2 plants in Europe 4 industrial partnerships, CORE manufacturing footprint and North America North America, South America, Asia PROCESSES and Africa 5 continents Development of integrated visual communication Development of innovations that are solutions made from recycled and recyclable Deployment of the Nativa Precious Green innovation and Launch of the Sustainable Fifty line A Corporate Social Responsibility recyclable, compostable or made from raw materials and of services that reduce the Fiber label for certified, traceable production policies of eco-responsible interlinings culture instilled into customer solutions recycled materials + waste treatment environmental impact of both our own and our premium-grade fibers customers’ solutions Number of R&D and 4 7 1 4 More than 10 R&D centers Quality laboratories Technical substrates 4 Key niche market Surface quality protection films Museum services High-quality combed wool for fashion and luxury goods Global niche markets 10 6 4 5 Number of market Construction, household Digital printing, architecture, home furnishings, OVERVIEW Luxury goods, apparel, Luxury goods, apparel, sportswear, More than 20 global niche market segments served appliances, electronics individual protection, commercial signage fast-fashion, sportswear footwear, etc. segments (metals, glass, plastics, etc.) and visitor experience A global leader in high value-added Global market position(1) No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide niche markets % of revenue generated > 90% > 90% > 70% 100% > 90% outside France GLOBAL Number of countries covered > 80 countries > 75 countries > 30 countries > 40 countries 90 countries covered across 5 continents INTEGRATION Number of countries where Chargeurs has marketing > 60 countries > 30 countries > 30 countries > 10 countries Extensive global footprint operations Functionalized technical textiles High-quality customer Industrial materials Technical linings and reinforcements High-quality wool Providing not just products but integrated Integrated services and solutions for cultural solutions and surface protection for apparel reinforcements solutions to all customers institutions and the visitor experience A tight-knit > 10 > 20 Sales offices and close partnerships with > 10 before- and after-sales A 100% customer-centric service culture HIGH service centers around the world marketing subsidiaries key market players on 5 continents marketing subsidiaries customer service network BARRIERS TO ENTRY Degree of product specificity ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ High level of quality ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Level of customer loyalty ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Degree of customer portfolio > 7,000 industrial clients ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ diversification served worldwide
(1) This Universal Registration Document contains information about the Group’s markets and its competitive positions. The Group’s statements are based on data taken from Group estimates.
54 — CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document Business overview 1.6. A culture of manufacturing excellence serving high-end, distinctive markets 01
In serving its global high-tech niche markets, Chargeurs is supported by a robust and distinctive business model that nurtures a pioneering spirit: • the model is robust thanks to a combination of powerful innovation capabilities, a selective marketing strategy and a very long-term core shareholder; • distinctive because, leveraging all the benefits of operating across diverse global economic cycles, Chargeurs deploys standards of excellence that enable it to constantly co-develop solutions with customers. 1 The following table summarizes, for each business unit, the features that make it distinctive and how it has demonstrated the Group's culture of manufacturing excellence:
CHARGEURS CHARGEURS CHARGEURS CHARGEURS THE CHARGEURS MODEL PROTECTIVE FILMS PCC FASHION TECHNOLOGIES MUSEUM SOLUTIONS LUXURY MATERIALS
Use of cutting-edge ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ technologies A policy of continuous A commitment to continuous Creation of the world's Development of innovative products 13% of products less than 5 years old Total traceability of wool sold technological innovation technological innovation thinnest interlining recognized by their peers embraced by all 4 business units Operation of the first Pioneering development with the Leading-edge equipment Start-up of a techno-smart 4.0 Investment in more environmentally friendly Disruptive innovations ultra-thin (40-gauge) launch of a blockchain system in key plants production line in Italy printing technologies, such as dye sublimation in every business unit A CULTURE technical knitting machine involving all stakeholders OF EXCELLENCE 7 plants in Europe, Asia-Pacific, 16 manufacturing units, ACROSS ALL A globally balanced 7 sites in Europe 4 industrial partnerships in North America, South America 2 plants in Europe 4 industrial partnerships, CORE manufacturing footprint and North America North America, South America, Asia PROCESSES and Africa 5 continents Development of integrated visual communication Development of innovations that are solutions made from recycled and recyclable Deployment of the Nativa Precious Green innovation and Launch of the Sustainable Fifty line A Corporate Social Responsibility recyclable, compostable or made from raw materials and of services that reduce the Fiber label for certified, traceable production policies of eco-responsible interlinings culture instilled into customer solutions recycled materials + waste treatment environmental impact of both our own and our premium-grade fibers customers’ solutions Number of R&D and 4 7 1 4 More than 10 R&D centers Quality laboratories Technical substrates 4 Key niche market Surface quality protection films Museum services High-quality combed wool for fashion and luxury goods Global niche markets 10 6 4 5 Number of market Construction, household Digital printing, architecture, home furnishings, OVERVIEW Luxury goods, apparel, Luxury goods, apparel, sportswear, More than 20 global niche market segments served appliances, electronics individual protection, commercial signage fast-fashion, sportswear footwear, etc. segments (metals, glass, plastics, etc.) and visitor experience A global leader in high value-added Global market position(1) No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide No. 1 worldwide niche markets % of revenue generated > 90% > 90% > 70% 100% > 90% outside France GLOBAL Number of countries covered > 80 countries > 75 countries > 30 countries > 40 countries 90 countries covered across 5 continents INTEGRATION Number of countries where Chargeurs has marketing > 60 countries > 30 countries > 30 countries > 10 countries Extensive global footprint operations Functionalized technical textiles High-quality customer Industrial materials Technical linings and reinforcements High-quality wool Providing not just products but integrated Integrated services and solutions for cultural solutions and surface protection for apparel reinforcements solutions to all customers institutions and the visitor experience A tight-knit > 10 > 20 Sales offices and close partnerships with > 10 before- and after-sales A 100% customer-centric service culture HIGH service centers around the world marketing subsidiaries key market players on 5 continents marketing subsidiaries customer service network BARRIERS TO ENTRY Degree of product specificity ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ High level of quality ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Level of customer loyalty ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Degree of customer portfolio > 7,000 industrial clients ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ diversification served worldwide
CHARGEURS – 2019 Universal registration document — 55
02
RISK FACTORS AND THE CONTROL ENVIRONMENT
2.1. THE MAIN RISKS TO WHICH 2.3. INTERNAL CONTROL THE GROUP BELIEVES IT IS PROCEDURES AND RISK EXPOSED 58 MANAGEMENT 66 2.1.1. Strategic risks 59 2.3.1. Definition and objectives 2.1.2. Operational risks 62 of internal control 66 2.1.3. Financial risks 64 2.3.2. Scope of internal control 66 2.3.3. Internal control participants 66 2.2. INSURANCE 65 2.3.4. Internal control structure 67 2.2.1. Insurance strategy 65 2.3.5. Operational structure 67 2.2.2. Information about the main 2.3.6. Information and internal control insurance programs 65 systems relating to accounting and financial reporting 67 2.3.7. A system to map, analyze and address the main identifiable risks 68 2.3.8. Continuous improvement 69 Risk factors and the control environment 02 The main risks to which the Group believes it is exposed
Chargeurs operates in a constantly changing environment. It is However, Chargeurs cannot provide absolute assurance that all of therefore exposed to risks which, if they were to occur, could its risk management objectives will be met and that it will be able negatively impact its business, results of operations, financial to totally eliminate the risks described below. Moreover, other position, image and/or outlook. risks and uncertainties of which the Group is unaware or which it does not consider to be material at the date of this document, This chapter describes the material strategic, operational and could negatively impact its business, results of operations, financial financial risks to which Chargeurs believes it is exposed. It also position, image and/or outlook in the future. sets out the Group’s insurance programs and the internal control system in place for identifying and assessing risks and reducing To address these risks, the Group strives, whenever possible, their probability and potential impact on the Group. to proactively prevent them by training employees to deal with contingencies and unforeseen events.
2.1. THE MAIN RISKS TO WHICH THE GROUP BELIEVES IT IS EXPOSED
In accordance with AMF recommendation 2014-14: • the Company carried out a specific review of its liquidity, based on which it considers that it is in a position to meet its upcoming • the Company reviewed the risks it believed to have a significant adverse effect on its operations, its financial situation or its results repayment obligations. (including its ability to achieve its objectives). Aside from the The following matrix summarizes the risks to which the Group is risks presented, Chargeurs does not believe there to be any exposed and classifies them according to their impact and the other significant risks; probability that they will occur.
IMPACT ON THE GROUP