NAMIBIA & BOTSWANA BIRDING & ENIGMATIC WILDLIFE 7th - 22nd September 2019 [email protected] | (800) 348-5941 | +1-409-515-9110 | www.tropicalbirding.com ENIGMATIC WILDLIFE TOURS

Don’t let the company’s name fool you.

Here at Tropical Birding Tours, we are as obsessed with mammals as we are birds, herps and all other wildlife. Our new category of ‘Enigmatic Wildlife’ tours focusses on quality experiences with amazing animals that were once considered near- mythical, be they nocturnal critters of Borneo or the Kalahari, Mongolia’s Snow Leopards and Bactrian Camels, or Madagascar’s Perrier’s Sifaka and Fosa.

This custom tour scored an array of incredible charismatic and iconic wildlife, and we are well poised to run some of the best tours focussed on the rarest and most seldom seen wildlife in Namibia. For more details on any of the Enigmatic Wildlife products please e-mail [email protected] Namibia is an unforgettable, ancient land of incredible and stark contrast. From vast open deserts and rocky plains to sweeping savannah and rolling hills. By way of a perennially battered subantarctic coast, we made our way through the richest landscapes this underrated and under visited country has to offer.

Travelling our tried and tested itinerary, we began in the desert-surrounded demi-city of Windhoek where we travelled first through the heart of the Namib Desert to the storm-beaten and significantly cooler Atlantic coast. Heading inland we then spent an idyllic couple of nights in the Erongo Mountains. On a normal tour, our next stop would be regarded as the grand finale… Etosha National Park. Legendary in status, mythical in the whispers it generates, Etosha never fails to live up to its reputation. However for us, we pushed on even further, through the rustic Caprivi Strip and into the lush riverine landscapes of the Okavango Panhandle - Botswana.

African Fish Eagle on the Okavango No tour is ever the same as another, and that is especially true here in Namibia where water, or the lack thereof, often dictates where animals congregate, in what numbers and in what composition.

Birds in this landscape are mostly nomadic, some will be easy to find and abundant one year, and near- absent the next, so a journey here is always full of surprises. We did exceptionally well this year, seeming to be always on the up-side of any abnormality.

Lioness in Etosha NP It was hard to choose the tour highlights, but I tasked the group to give me their ‘ultimate moments’ of the tour. I asked for a mammal, a bird, a mammal encounter, and a bird encounter, from each of them, that they feel were the pinnacle of the tour.

The selections were varied, but shared some commonality. The ultimate moment of the tour was clearly an afternoon session spent watching a group of Lion deciding whether or not to hunt a young Elephant, only to be put firmly in their place by the rest of the herd. Bird highlights included the incomparable PEL’S FISHING OWL, bizarre Hamerkop, and often-underrated African Yellow White-eye, whilst mammals were dominated by Honey Badger and some of the best encounters with Black Rhino that I have ever had.

Guy rated a Black Rhino walking so close to us we could hear its footsteps as among the top moments, and Janet rated the bird feeding area at Erongo - no doubt because it included a coffee in hand!

Lilac-breasted Roller on the Okavango Connie reminded us of the moment we watched an African Fish Eagle attack a Lappet-faced Vulture on the Botswana border, by jumping on its back talons- first. Nas highlighted a beautiful African Spoonbill, swishing and swashing its way closer to us, and it was Gretchen that told us to look way back to the frigid coast and remember the “zillions” of flamingoes amongst the ochre-red dunes.

The birds had been many (over 300), the mammals likewise (over 50), but it was the encounters we experienced with these animals that really gripped us on this tour. It wasn’t a tick-and-run, or chase, through the desert, it was a full immersion and journey through one of the most beautiful areas of the planet.

What follows, is a photographic review of our adventure. Grab a coffee, beer, or glass of wine, and join us in the living desert and lush plains of Namibia & Botswana.

- Lisle Gwynn Tour Leader

Black Rhino in Etosha NP Namib Desert & Benguela Coast Our journey began by winding its way through the centre of the Namib Desert - the world’s oldest, and one of the driest. A night perched high upon the Spreetshoogte Pass gave us opportunity to find Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra in quantities I could only dream of before this tour, as well as starting our desert birding with the the likes of Ashy Tit, Chestnut-vented Warbler, Pririt Batis, Great Rufous Sparrow, our first Namaqua Sandgrouse and some beautifully contrasting Southern Pied Babblers. The views were breathtaking, and the birding equally so, as Rufous- eared Warbler stole our hearts as a contender for ‘cutest bird of the trip’ and Karoo Robin and Karoo Long-billed Lark whistled its way onto our list. We marvelled at the enormous Social Weaver colonies as we descended the pass, and enjoyed brilliant views of Rüppel’s Bustard before lunch, and Scaly Weaver during.

The highlight here in the desert though was the wildly intimate encounter with two inquisitive Herero Chats. They took a little while to co- operate, but boy was it worth it!

Herero Chat Chestnut-banded & White-fronted Plover

Moving down to the misty, salty and significantly cooler Benguela-cooled coast of Walvis Bay we had a change in pace - from desert larks, to salty shorebirds. Both present ID challenges, so we headed to the salt pans for a class in Palearctic shorebird identification.

Chestnut-banded and White-fronted Plovers strutted their stuff in good numbers, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint roved by the thousand, and the sea of shorebirds was peppered with Common Greenshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Black- bellied Plover, Ruff and Sanderling to name but a few. Great White Pelicans drifted overhead, sometimes a little too close for comfort, but it was the evening spent watching the most glorious sunset over hundreds of Greater and Lesser Flamingoes that will never leave my memory. Nor will our session on the beach which gave us unsatisfactory views of Damara Tern, only to find one fishing within arms reach shortly after - mega! Damara Tern (left) is a tiny and rare southern African endemic. We thought we were going to have to walk away with unsatisfactory views until this one decided to give us a show.

Dune Lark (right) is the only bird found ONLY within Namibia’s borders. Other near-endemics share their range with tiny parts of South Africa, Botswana or Angola. That makes this Namibia’s only Geopolitical endemic bird. No views of the Southern Ocean would be complete without some seabirds, so Wilson’s Storm Petrel, Northern Giant Petrel and AFRICAN PENGUIN were all very welcome amongst the numerous Cape Fur Seals and tricky Heaviside’s Dolphins.

Back to Southern Africa’s speciality - larks - we made our way inland a few miles to a set of beautifully red dunes to look for Namibia’s only Geopolitical endemic - the Dune Lark. Amazing looks were had by all as it scurried between vegetation patches. To finish off our time here we sought out more sunset flamingoes amongst red dunes to finish the iconography of this gorgeous coastline. A vehicle breakdown was a bit of an imposition for us as we headed toward Erongo, but a little sweet-talking and charm from Lisle saw us driving off in a borrowed vehicle rather rapidly. We were confined to the coast for a while longer than anticipated so we headed into the dunes and moonscapes near Swakopmund to see what we could find. As it turned out, lots.

Bradfield’s Namib Day Gecko kept us entertained for a while, but only as it darted between some of the biggest Welwitschia plants on Earth. These living fossils, some 2000+ years old, were a major target of the group so it was great to see them like this. Bird highlights included ample Mountain Wheatear, Tractrac Chat and South African Swallow, as well as a picnic lunch with views of Verraux’s Eagle. Diademed Sifaka in Mantadia NP ERONGO MOUNTAINS With a replacement vehicle in hand it was time to head to Erongo. We spent two nights in this area, seeking out as many of the area’s specialities as possible. We began softly with Blue Waxbill and Green- winged Pytilia, but soon ramped up to gleaming Damara Hornbills and showy Brubru. Not to be outdone by the Damara, we were soon enjoying Monteiro’s Hornbill at close range, whilst a brief Black Mongoose teased us. Our luck shifted with incredible views of a pair of endemic White-tailed Shrike - a giant batis of sorts, before we entered the idyllic Erongo Wilderness Lodge.

From our lunchtime and afternoon perch we had close views and great photo opportunities with Cape Bunting, Pale-winged Starling, Red-billed Spurfowl, Black-throated Canary, Dassie Rat, Rock Hyrax and brief views of Rockrunner. The coffee-in-hand aspect was well appreciated before the group departed for an excursion to see the famous Bushman rock paintings nearby. By the time they returned, Lisle was waiting with calling Freckled Nightjars, and one tee’d up in the flashlight from the dinner table was admired by our group, and the lodge staff, alike.

Rosy-faced Lovebird Rockrunner at Erongo Wilderness Lodge Morning dawned early for us the following day. Insisting we meet in the dark, we had a target in mind. The nightjars were still calling as we sauntered down to an area of rocky scree, just as the sun broke the horizon. Through bleary eyes and tired minds, the day exploded into action with the heart-stopping cacophony of a group of Hartlaub’s Spurfowl. There were no distant scope views for us, no, this group were mere feet away and calling in plain view. Of course Lisle had left his camera behind, but the group got incredible photos and video footage of this often tricky and very missable endemic.

Breakfast was soon served in the outcrop-top restaurant where we were joined by dozens upon dozens of Rosy- faced Lovebirds and some of the best views I have ever had of the endemic and curious Rockrunner. How could the day get any better?! Oh, that’s right… we were headed to Etosha… Birds of the Erongo feeding station & surrounds: White-tailed Shrike, Green- winged Pytilia, Mountain Wheatear, Red-eyed Bulbul, Cape Bunting (clockwise). ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK Etosha isn’t a commonplace household name, or iconic like the Masai Mara or the Serengeti. Etosha is comparatively little-known, under-visited, and in a total league of its own. I, for one, am glad that it doesn’t compare to those other reserves - it is a photographer’s paradise, with little other traffic at even the busiest sightings, and it is a unique landscape that once you recognise, is INSTANTLY recognisable in any photograph.

Here, large mammals roam abundant. Big cats aren’t rare, elephants are dusty and white, and the ‘common’ rhino isn’t White, it’s Black. This makes Etosha very special indeed.

Birding our way through the park with 3 nights inside we racked up an impressive list of desert-adapted birds and beasts. Highlights included Bare-cheeked Babblers beside our lunch spot, a group of Violet Woodhoopoes swinging from the branches inside camp, and thousands of larks including Stark’s, Pink- billed, and surprise Eastern Clapper and even some presumably-displaced Gray’s which was not on our radar for this part of the tour.

A large male Lion saunters back to the shade Large birds were abundant. Ostrich by the ton, nesting White-backed Vultures, Kori Bustards dominating waterholes and even a co-operative Ludwig’s Bustard. Smaller ground birds included several encounters with beautiful Burchell’s and Double-banded Coursers.

With a group primarily interested in ALL natural history, we spent a huge amount of time seeking mammals, which in Etosha is not hard to do. We saw upwards of 20 Lions, including the most amazing scene of 2 females and a male contemplating hunting an elephant, only for the entire herd to flush their 3 tiny cubs from the scrub and chase them down. The cubs escaped, thankfully, but the drama was top notch. Black Rhino were encountered right in the open, for perfect photography at sunset, Spotted Hyena bathed in a waterhole at eye-level for us, and we even managed to find a Honey Badger rummaging through the earth looking for scorpions. Giraffe were abundant, and Elephant were majestic. Etosha is hard to put into words, so I’ll let the photographs do the talking.

Eland is rarely seen in Etosha

An afternoon spent with tiny Lion cubs, females at their prime, and a large maned male - does life get any better? Our time spent with Black Rhino on this tour was just mind-blowing. So many great encounters, so many great photo opportunities. Life revolves around water in this dry, dusty land. Predator and prey alike have to find somewhere to drink, or perish.

Impala, Plains Zebra and Spotted Hyena (clockwise) all finding peace at the water’s edge. Black-backed Jackal, Spotted Hyena, and Honey Badger.

Who’s the big dawg now? Honey Badger. Always Honey Badger. Bird weren’t exactly in short supply, either. Kori Bustard, White-quilled Bustard, Burchell’s Courser and Namaqua Sandgrouse (clockwise). CAPRIVI & THE OKAVANGO We were lucky to spend four nights in this corner of Namibia and Botswana on this tour. It was the first time we had seen significant water since the Atlantic, and the birdlife had changed to a composition more typical of the bushveld than the desert. The new birds rolled in.

We arrived late to the Caprivi, with the sun setting as we took our table for dinner. 6 White-backed Night Herons cruised down the river, and our first Hippo wallowed. A great introduction.

Dawn on the river and we were cruising the calm waters on a boat trip. Grey-headed Parrots flew over briefly, and Meyer’s even briefer still, but our first ‘wow’ moment came with the closest views I have ever had of Rufous-bellied Heron. Grey-rumped Swallows hawked over the water, two African Skimmer lazed on the shore, dozens of Collared Pratincole gave stupendous views, and our first Little, White-fronted and Southern Carmine Bee-eaters gave a thrill.

Little Bee-eater Not to be outdone, the mammals upped the ante. First, a huge group of rowdy Hippo gave us some gnarly looks, only to be followed by some of the best views possible of giant Cape Clawless Otters, and some close views of the smaller and slinkier Spot-necked Otter. Two otters on one boat trip - no complaints here!

On our way back down river we made a brief stop on the Angolan side of the river, stepping onto the land for a quick country tick, and two bird ticks - Plain-backed Pipit, and the demure Brown Firefinch. Shelley’s Sunbird showed well but briefly, repeatedly, giving frustrating views on the Namibian side.

Back on land, our afternoon foray into the surrounding area proved unsuccessful for Souza’s Shrike - a bird that has become increasingly difficult recently - but struck gold with a couple of sightings of Sharp-tailed Starling. We once again had sunset by the river, and slept until awoken by African Barred Owlet and African Scops Owl, the former of which gave amazing views the next morning.

African Barred Owlet right outside our rooms! Cape Clawless Otter views do not get better than this! Awaking to another red dawn the lawns of the lodge were already adorned with birds. Bradfield’s Hornbills, Magpie Shrikes, Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starlings, Crimson-breasted Gonoleks, Swamp Boubous, Hartlaub’s and Arrow-marked Babblers, and reports from the group of Cape Clawless Otters frolicking in the water beyond our breakfast table.

Soon it was time to move on to Botswana though. A brief stop in Mahango Game Reserve to chase up a recent sighting of African Wild Dog saw us find no canines, but came up trumps for the rare and striking Roan antelope, as well as our first good looks at Emerald-spotted Wood Dove. On to Botswana and we were met in the shady camp beside the river by Tom, our guide for the next couple of days, to be transferred by river to the stunning Xaro Lodge. Along the way we visited roosting White-backed Night Heron, only to make it in time for our first Botswana birds. A couple of sessions over two days here gave us great looks at Mariqua, White-bellied and Purple- banded Sunbirds, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Green- capped Eremomela, Yellow-billed and Red-billed Oxpecker, Terrestrial Brownbul and a bounty of others.

African Skimmer on the Okavango in Botswana You show me somebody who is bored with skimmers, and I’ll show you a liar. More river highlights - White- fronted Bee-eater, Lilac-breasted Roller, Rufous-bellied Heron & White-backed Night Heron (clockwise) We had come here primarily for some riverine birding, though. Tom was prepared, and already had our main target staked out. Gathering beneath a shady stand of mature trees, we ogled one of the world’s BEST birds - Pel’s Fishing Owl. Trips down the river could only serve as by catch to this amazing encounter, but the likes of African Skimmer, Greater Swamp Warbler, Chirping and Luapula Cisticolas were enjoyed by all. Black-winged Kites and African Marsh Harriers served in the raptor stakes, only to be outdone by African Fish Eagle, whilst Marabou Storks gave fantastic views on a sandy spit. Highlight of the river excursions though was probably some time spent with Elephants trying to cross the river. To go from dust-bathing to swimming in just a couple of days was brilliant for our Elephant portfolio.

Coming back from Xaro, into Namibia, we spent more time in Mahango with a lazy lunch with a cooling breeze. No-one could complain with a bevy of new beasts - Wattled Crane was a highlight, as were ample Cape Buffalo, Red Lechwe, Oribi, African Spoonbill, Long-toed Lapwing and a surprise adult White-headed Vulture!

Marabou Stork on the Okavango Storming back to Windhoek we made a couple of brief stops. One, to overnight at Roy’s Camp where we found fantastic views of Golden-breasted Bunting, Violet-eared Waxbill, Carp’s Tit and an obliging Duiker. The other was at the world’s largest visible meteorite - the Hoba Meteorite. Here we added stonking views of Ashy Tit, Red-backed Scrub-Robin and even Cape Vulture. Obviously, this enormous 80 ton meteorite was the stand-out highlight, and came as a specially requested visit by the group.

Ending the tour in Windhoek, the diminutive capital city, we celebrated a successful adventure and shared personal highlights. Lisle even had his only beer of the trip, much to the group’s delight.

What an adventure.

Voted bird of the tour, Pel’s Fishing Owl - how could it not be ?! Easily one of the world’s top birds. BIRDS ENCOUNTERED We encountered a huge amount of wildlife over our 15 day adventure. The following lists detail the species that we encountered.

MAMMALS ENCOUNTERED [email protected] | (800) 348-5941 | +1-409-515-9110 | www.tropicalbirding.com