CREATIVITY in the TIME of C19 FBS C19 Issue 2: 11.05.20 ! ! ! ! "##$%!&!! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

! ! ! ! CREATIVITY IN THE TIME OF C19 FBS C19 Issue 2: 11.05.20 ! ! ! ! "##$%!&!! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Ronald Van Der Kemp, Amsterdam Show 28.04.20 ! In this second issue, alongside all the news, we also focus on two key fashion topics from before COVID 19 hit; Gender and Sustainability. The planet under lockdown has been transformed in so many ways, from travel to pollution, can we simply return to our old methods? Local as opposed to global, easy access and fast turn around, on the spot rather than air lifted in, culturally appropriate and understandable. Crafts and traditions transcend generations and time.

It’s also about how we can work within the current situation for imagery and fashion as a business. Ideas of teams scattered but communicating, ideas being tried out, shoots transformed in examples of personal expression, inspiration rather than just selling the product.

Tony Glenville Fashion Commentator! Imagination Breaks The Rules, But Safely:

We continue to look at how live events are re imagined for ‘socially distanced’ society, under lock down, and how fashion business globally, is looking at ways to adapt to make money during lockdown. Profits which enable businesses to grow or evolve, are essential for a company to function, even if this is at the most basic level.

Events: New Thinking

Although both Men’s Fashion Week and Haute Couture in Paris were cancelled due to the ongoing COVID pandemic, here is news of the digital menswear week in Paris. https://fhcm.paris/en/2020/05/06/paris-fashion-week-online-mode-masculine/ Events:

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What are we going to do about fashion and trade shows? Read a conversation with Lutz Huelle @ lutz_huelle_official on Instagram.

Artisan, Craft, Heritage Skills: Upcycling fashion apparel and Emotional Durability: ! !

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‘Make Do and Mend’ originally came about when clothes rationing was introduced during the Second World War. The Ministry of Information published a pamphlet encouraging people to do whatever they could to extend the life of their clothes, from darning socks to washing nylons more carefully.’

Winifred Barber https://www.bbc.co.uk/history/ww2peopleswar/stories/26/a7527026.shtml

Turning household linens into clothes, turning a simple t shirt into an interesting draped top. Old crafts revived or new versions of old ideas reinterpreted for 2020.. You decide if it’s ancient or modern. One thing is for sure, it’s everywhere.

Emotional Durability: Sustainable thinking as we renegotiate our future and values.

‘The perceived value of most products peaks the moment that we buy them. As soon as the product leaves the store and is unwrapped, value starts a steep decline. The first little scratch, the first wear, the first wash makes the product seem less 'perfect' and too soon we start to desire a shiny new product again. If we are to create sustainable fashion, we must design products that celebrate the process of ageing, and the accumulation of grime and wear and tear.’ Jonathan Chapman

The idea of crafts, and the concept of handmade has suddenly assumed a new importance through a 21st century lens. There is a new respect for skills and techniques of craft especially since many people have been forced through lockdown and stretch household income to try and reproduce professional results with limited skill sets and resources from our respective lockdown localities.

Hairdressers and makeup artists, and those who use their hands to create creative outcomes are offering on-line advice whilst slowly returning to their ‘socially distanced’ workplaces. This is not the same as the bloggers and You-tubers who were already using these channels to great effect. Instead these are established professionals and brands that are shifting their focus from the usual physical salon, studio or retail environment to a virtual online environment whilst locked down at home; exploring crafts, ideas, workshops and online tutorials to inspire their loyal consumer base, sustaining brand awareness and positioning and using lock-down as innovative new opportunities to explore how digital transformation is driving new forms of consumer engagement and experience simultaneously extending the brand influence in new directions.

Hairdressers such as Darren Fowler Hair on Facebook are constantly discussing and communicating with their target ‘digital’ audience employing dynamic Public Relations [PR] to maintain brand presence; in Darren’s case a Central London salon, Fowler35, has engaged his target audience during these unstable times through a vibrant on-line presence ensuring survival until the salon reopens.

People are looking at craft revival and cultural traditions such as patchwork, dying, weaving, sewing, hand embroidery, darning, beading, and knitting etc. These are often local to specific regions and or countries, although now globally accessible via WWW and IoT enabling cultural traditions to achieve global reach i.e The Japanese craft of Boro. https://www.selvedge.org/blogs/selvedge/boro

The Internet of Things (IoT) is transforming the UK:

‘The number of devices connected to the internet now exceeds the number of people on the planet. According to analyst firm Gartner there were 8.4 billion devices – or “things” – connected to the internet in 2017. By 2020 it predicts the number of internet-of-things (IoT) devices will rise to 20.4 billion worldwide.

And this growth is not only in the home, with devices such as smart TVs, smart fridges and security cameras. Increasingly businesses are connecting devices to the internet and turning them into intelligent assets that can help drive greater efficiencies, increase competitiveness, develop new business models and provide solutions to problems.’ https://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/future-technologies/internet-of-things/!! ! This follows on from the cooking trend which had started to focus on regional traditions and sustaining heritage within our increasingly globalised world. Have a look at Mathew Boudreaux Instagram @misterdomestic Those who can make clothes are showing their lockdown ideas – as examples see on Instagram @Maison Rabin Kayrouz and @LUTZ and those that can draw are demonstrating/showcasing their skills online; such examples as seen on Instagram @danielroseberry, @elietop and @schiaparelli

Schiaparelli Illustrations The New York Times

Second World War ‘Make Do and Mend’ meets the fashion page 2020 https://www.nytimes.com/2020/05/05/style/how-to-make-a-blanket-cape-with-clare- waight-keller.html

Ideas need to be forthcoming all the time based around lockdown and staying in the home. Below is a press release from Karl Lagerfeld this week:

Karl at Home:

Dear Tony, I hope that you are well.

Please find below this week program for #stayhomewithkarl:

Wednesday May 6th : Lauren Michelle Pires, Nail Tutorial 7pm (post, not instalive) https://instagram.com/laurenmichellepires

Friday May 8th : DJ Bliss, DJ Set, 7pm https://instagram.com/djblissdubai

Saturday May 9th : Caroline Lebar (Karl Lagerfeld long-time collaborator, communication and image director of the brand) , Apple Tart Tutorial, 7pm (post, not instalive)

Sunday May 10th: Sebastian Jondeau, Work Out, 5pm

I stay at your disposal if you have questions

Have a nice day and take care!

Jonathan Moscatelli Press Manager [email protected] Phone: +33 (0) 144 50 22 19 Mobile: +33 (0) 6 33 17 35 54 KARL LAGERFELD 21 Rue Saint Guillaume 75007 Paris France www.karl.com #KARLLAGERFELD Image Making: Fashion Illustration & Drawing:

Online life drawing with Sue Tilley featuring Daniel Lismore

•! https://www.isolationstationhastings.co.uk/catch-up/life-drawing-with-sue-tilley •! https://www.instagram.com/suedraylcf/?hl=en

If you can’t put on a shoot, and the budget and the practicalities of engaging a huge support team is currently ridiculous; one person drawing at home makes perfect sense. For example, Bil Donovan, David Downton, Piet Paris, Cecilia Carlstedt and many others.

• https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/9050/the-water-and-ink-world-of-illustrator- bil-donovan • http://www.daviddownton.com/clients/ • https://agentandartists.com/artists/piet-paris/ • http://www.ceciliacarlstedt.com Investigate fashion illustrators and their current work. Big advertising campaigns will be looking at image creation from new sources and through other mediums. A vast amount of inspiration and sources are available through YouTube, Instagram, Facebook and WWW etc

Watch the illustrator Clym Evernden on Instagram to see how one mans talent turns packaging or a carrier bag, or really anything, into a work of art @clymdraws https://clymdraws.com High profile Brands are offering ‘colouring in’ book experiences created by artists for those who don’t feel confident enough to draw. Jon Burgerman's first colouring book is out in July. Burgerman's is the world's most popular doodle artist but the book is more than just a canny publisher being aware of his large fan base and the popularity of colouring books for adults. This emerging trend stretches back to before Johanna Basford's Secret Garden which kickstarted the colouring books for grownups. https://www.jonburgerman.com

Asked why he thinks colouring books for adults have been so popular recently, Burgerman's mentions some of the usual factors; Creativity, Fun but also notes the satisfaction that people get from completing a drawing. As with more traditional forms of creativity, drawing, painting, even knitting there’s an emotional need being satisfied not only while working on the task but that continues when completed.

How brands are using colour and colour psychology to both influence and reinforce their brand identity, purchase decisions and change perceptions As well as being a brand shorthand for consumers colour communicates at a more subliminal level and can even impact the bottom line if used correctly.

A brand’s choice of colour is a fundamental element that reinforces both its personality and the qualities of the products and/or services it offers.

Some brands are so iconic that it is possible to identify them from just a single pantone colour without an accompanying logo. Others, including Cadbury, Barbie and UPS, have even gone so far as to trademark their defining shades. So why do brands place such importance on colour and what impact does it have on the way consumers perceive them?

Colour Psychology:

Research suggests that consumers ‘make a subconscious judgment about a person, environment, or product within 90 seconds of initial viewing and that between 62% and 90% of that assessment is based on colour alone.’

Further research indicates that brand recognition can be increased by up to 80% by effective use of colour throughout marketing, packaging and logo design. Whilst other marketing elements including the targeting of advertising and effective product copy are of importance to a brand’s voice, its core individuality and memorability could lie within its carefully selected colour palette. https://www.colorcom.com/research/why-color-matters

Of course, there are always exceptions to every rule, with several potential factors affecting an individual’s perception of colour. Let’s take cultural upbringing as an example: the colour red is commonly associated with luck and prosperity throughout Asia, whereas it can represent love, passion or even danger in western societies. These differences are important to consider when targeting specific geographical or ethnic audiences as part of a marketing strategy. Sabayasachi: Indian fashion designer

The Indian couturier speaks about his thoughts through his amazing Instagram account. His philosophical and thoughtful words point towards the possible future for many designers. Watch his world come alive through his stories and history. Read more on his account @sabyasachiofficiel https://www.sabyasachi.com • Couture and local ateliers are easier than global production. • Small quantities rather than huge deliveries. • Quality not quantity and investment not instant trends. • Emotional durability over throwaway fast fashion.

Sara Maino: Deputy Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Italia

She has been at the Italian fashion magazine for over two decades and has a penchant for scouting young design talent.

As deputy director of Vogue Italia and head of Vogue Talents, Sara Maino oversees this important international project created with Franca Sozzani in 2009. Vogue Talents is both an editorial and online project; a network that scouts and supports the best emerging creative talents around the world.

A platform that creates connections across the fashion industry, for a decade Vogue Talents has supported the growth of opportunities and new collaborations between the industry and the new generation of talent around the globe.

‘Fashion won’t be about quantity anymore, but quality.’

Sara Maino: Deputy Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Italia

Gender:

There are many links, articles and brands using the genderless concept and idea. The underlying theme is also about creating and incorporating simple luxury pieces into the wardrobe. It is also about the continuing idea of playing with fashion. Working from home, street wear and tailoring; each claiming its own fashion territory not as ‘trends’ but as wardrobe concepts for the consumer. Genderless and Artisan Fashion: https://www.nowfashion.com/meet-alanui-italy-s-arts-and-crafts-trendsetters-2973

In Carine Roitfeld’s YouTube amFAR show MissFameNYC simply appeared amongst the supermodels.? Drag is no longer a separate entity in fashion terms

Miss Fame is the stage name of Kurtis Dam-Mikkelsen, an American model, makeup artist, drag queen, recording artist and reality television personality best known as a contestant on season 7 of RuPaul's Drag Race.

Maison Margiela Catwalk 2019.

Personally, I believe MissFame is beyond drag! Tony Glenville

Magazines:

The latest editions of Vogue Italia and L’Uomo Vogue are paired and matched through all the visuals. Plus, both issues feature discussions and articles on gender split between the issue including Giorgio Armani. Keeping up to date, buying magazines or simply requiring visual stimulation.

There’s plenty around in the online world, here’s just a few suggestions. All initial contacts to be found on Instagram, some of these are both print and digital or have integrated digital content.

•! @Airmail Weekly Founded by Graydon Carter ex Editor Vanity Fair •! @Schon Magazine •! @Blanc Magazine •! @Feroce Magazine •! @Reserved Magazine •! @CAP 74024 •! @Hunger Magazine •! @Institute Magazine •! @Luncheon Magazine •! @Amagazinecuratedby •! @Version.mag created by London based Foxall Associates ! French Fashion Magazine Slate asks below ‘Fashion in a time of Crisis.’ http://www.slate.fr/story/190188/mode-crise-covid-19-pandemie-chine-luxe-fashion- weeks-reprise-consommation-calendrier-collections-fast-fashion-rapport-temps ! Can the Covid19 crisis offer a fashionable new start? Antigone Schilling May 7, 2020, 10:08 a.m. The pandemic invites the ready-to-wear and luxury sectors to question their frantic race for novelty.

At Givenchy's fall-winter 2020-2021 fashion show on March 1, 2020 in Paris | Lucas

‘Difficult to imagine the future of fashion, as the shock waves caused by the Covid-19 pandemic disrupt every link in the chain, from the textile worker in Bangladesh to the luxury store on Avenue Montaigne. Uncertainties surrounding the hypothetical resolution of the health crisis have already suspended many orders from buyers who are now cautious, unable to predict autumn-winter when the spring-summer models are confined.’ Slate FR Ethical & Sustainable:

New studios @lacaserneparis on Instagram opening 2021 Ethical denim with @prosperitytextiles

Ronald Van Der Kemp:

The designer whose sustainable couture has moved up the couture schedule since its launch just had an an extraordinary and both time and location specific event in Amsterdam.

Please see coverage below.

• https://youtu.be/bH1pUFNXp7A • https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/ronald-van-der-kemp-army-of-love-amsterdam • https://wfc.tv/en/articles/about-fashion/raise-the-flags-ronald-van-der-kemp- presented-his-new-revolutionary-collection

Research & Access:

Research and discussions continue with key fashion figures and players who are happy to look forward, and plan for the future exploring the next stage of creative thinking. London College of Fashion UAL has a key part to play in such future forward approaches. LCF Fashion Business School [FBS]:

‘London College of Fashion, UAL is a world-leader in fashion business, design and media education. In boundary-pushing research: where fashion intersects with science, engineering, technology. And in enterprise: where we partner with brands and help launch new businesses.

By leading the way in fashion business, design and media, we influence culture, economics, and society. We give our students the skills, opportunities, and freedom to influence the world of fashion and through fashion, influence the world. Through fashion, we shape lives.’

Fashion Institute of Technology New York [FIT]: A different viewpoint and access to some of their archive. An example of the kind of online event being hosted by FIT https://news.fitnyc.edu/2020/05/04/explore-thousands-of-years-of-fashion-history-online/

Norma Kamali:

Hue Live Online Event: Invention, Design, and Function: A Conversation with Legendary Designer Norma Kamali May 12 at 5:30 pm - 6:30 pm

Norma Kamali is an American fashion designer best known for the ‘sleeping bag’ coat, garments made from silk parachutes, and versatile multi-use pieces.

There is surprising research access for online magazines, auction catalogues, etc. In the smartest of areas.

Great auction houses like Sotheby’s and Christie’s offer both fund raising at the moment but online magazines, regular posts on a huge range of topics. It’s easy to register. Online auctions have increased and global access via www.invaluable.com offers everything from vintage fashion to film stills. This site offers the chance to be altered to your specific searches from any auctions anywhere in the world.

The Met Gala Has Been Postponed! The Metropolitan Museum New York - Costume Institute.

Dame Anna Wintour DBE:

Dame Anna Wintour DBE is a British-American journalist and editor who has been editor- in-chief of Vogue since 1988 and artistic director for Condé Nast, Vogue's publisher, since 2013 MET Gala Goes Online:

The First Monday in May 2020, the huge fund raiser and event, called the MET Ball was cancelled! However, Dame Anna Wintour MET Gala founder and host can be seen online introducing a history of the event and a replacement two-part virtual Gala of the physical event via YouTube The exhibition itself titled ‘Fashion & Duration’ has been postponed, further details to follow.

• https://youtu.be/a3IYgT1ZjGQ • https://youtu.be/HptQEYkMrVQ • https://time.com/5831987/met-gala-2020/ • https://youtu.be/wVHyyjvBvaI

Two brilliant fashion historians offer fascinating insights and ideas via their Instagram accounts:

Rebecca Arnold @documenting_fashion Caroline Rennolds Milbank @jupeculotte

Entertainment:

Ballet, opera and theatre continue to attract audiences in a huge range of digital, and online ideas. The world of the classical, once seen as “old fashioned” uses the personal and individual skills of each performer, just as fashion does. The ability to sing and play the piano as accompaniment is perfect for a single screen. The combining of various instruments also works well with Zoom, or other technology. Technology and solo performance obviously, but also with a musical director or conductor is something performers are used to. This mirrors the role of the creative director role in fashion.

The Swans: https://youtu.be/PT14o5Wq7gE Classical Gala for the Gramophone Magazine Awards: https://youtu.be/8ne6bjbi9O8

Entertainment Plus Information:

Netflix and others have many fashion documentaries. Some good, some boring and some amazing. McQueen, Franca Sozzani, etc.

Loic Prigent:

Using what we have from previous seasons has become important for now. This wonderful film on Balmain, for example is below. The archive of Loic’s work is amazing. If you’re not following him, you’re missing some amazing access. Check out also his films on DVD, including a brilliant Chanel ateliers documentary. https://youtu.be/7644e28HIDc Loic Prigent access is also available through both YouTube and Instagram. Loic Prigent, Film Director

His off-beat styled coverage joyfully displays what happens backstage on Fashion shows and his documentaries capture the very essence of Maison’s de Haute Couture. Almost Paris Fashion Week's official Twitter thread, this talented journalist and documentary maker has now become a key figure of the Fashion world. Come behind the scenes with Loïc Prigent. Robin Givhan:

Great writing and journalism is always scarce, but in the current times The Washington Post writer Robin Givhan stands out. Fashion, politics, fashion AND politics, lifestyle and thoughtful analysis are all part of her repertoire. Below some recent pieces to give you a flavour if you’re unfamiliar with her work. B%-,#!C,:5'#!,*!'!2'*5,%#!/&,$%1!'#&!D+.,$E/1!D1,E/!0,##,#3!01,$/1

• https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2020/04/14/trump-mask-briefing- mcconnell-melania/ • https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/masks-fashion-style- designs/2020/05/04/6a1b77a6-8a2c-11ea-ac8a-fe9b8088e101_story.html • https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2020/04/24/vogue-photos-medical- worker-doctor-nurse/

Updates:

Suzy Menkes Condé Nast Interviews updated now with Alber Elbaz and Olivier Rousteing of Balmain.

Another Update 5th of May on the actions of Premier Vision, the important Paris fabric event https://www.premierevision.com/en/news/spotlight-on/news-fabrics/premierevision-mobilises-on-behalf-of-the-industry/

Stop The Presses… NEWS Vetements Has Launched A New Uncensored Provocative New Account on Instagram

In the wake of the brands that best managed their communication strategy on Instagram during the pandemic, Vetements has opened a new ‘uncensored’ Instagram account. Its nickname leaves no doubts: @vetements_uncensored.

It's still not clear what kind of contents or utility this profile could have in the strategy of Vetements, if not that it's a private account and what we can read on its bio: “What you are about to witness will disturb you. Even shock you. There is a dark side of humanity the censors won't let you see… but we will”. The bio is then followed by a +18 emoji, indicating that the page is going to post sensitive contents. Led by Guram Gvasalia, the brand has always acted as a sort of fun house mirror held up to our world, using celebrity doppelgängers and its runways to turn garments as basic as socks into evocative political statements. A very well-timed project

‘What you are about to witness will disturb you. Even shock you. There is a dark side of humanity the censors won’t you see... but we will’ VETEMENTS Gossip:

During lockdown Givenchy released the news that Claire Waight Keller was leaving the house. Is this what is referred to as “burying the news”?

Alexandra Schulman is still talking about her Vogue departure in June 2017, it’s been three years since she left, time to get over it.

Would Dame Judi Dench, have been the Vogue cover choice if we were in a different time and global situation? The oldest person to ever grace any edition of Vogue, at 85, Dame Judi answers questions. https://youtu.be/618YE3XmIQI

Who is your guess for the next Vogue cover?

Enjoy! Coming up in the next issue of C19 Paris and Italy fashion industries reawaken.

!T.G. !