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I G Herita E Cul Nary Top Hospitals: Highest ranking hospitals in Louisiana EMBRACE THE CULTURE july/august 2017 CULI NARYHERITAG E Chef Melissa Martin’s Classic Cajun Stuffed HOME: Crabs A New Orleans Lakefront midcentury modern gem is returned to its former glory P. 20 LOUISIANALIFE.COM 1 july/august VOLUME 37 NUMBER 6 4 44 FROM THE EDITOR TRAVELER A Night at the Historically Passionate: Old Mansion A Creole dynasty where slaves have names 6 PHOTO CONTEST 48 Shine A Light On Me: FARTHER FLUNG An American Saddle Alabama Coasting: Bred horse from David 26 Beaches, Gulf seafood, McCoy Stables in Lake wildlife and history abound Charles is illuminated in sweet home Alabama by natural light. 50 8 ROADSIDE DINING ALONG THE WAY LA Guns: Pops & Rockets Ardent Spirits: Tippling, takes its sticky, sweet, scribbling and road ‘80s inspired treats on tripping through the South tour throughout Acadiana 10 52 STATE OF LOUISIANA GREAT LOUISIANA CHEF Pelican Briefs: Dogs, From the Soul: drinks, fests, fun and Shreveport Chef Eleazar a call to artists Mondragon adds a heavy dose of love to 11 dishes at Ki’ Mexico HEALTH Happy (Healthy) Trails: 54 The five best hike and KITCHEN GOURMET bike trails in Louisiana Summer Favorites: Make an easy meal out 12 of soft-shell crab with LITERARY LOUISIANA ice cream for dessert A Mother’s Love: Southern fiction about a 62 mother with secrets and CALENDAR a daughter with a ruthless July and August: will to find answers Events and festivals around the state 14 MADE IN LOUISIANA 64 Savoir Fair: Ruston 26 39 A LOUISIANA LIFE woodworker Joshua Tribal Legacy: Mitchell works to bring CULINARY HERITAGE TOP HOSPITALS Marksville native together creatives as well works to keep Tunica- as the larger community Louisiana’s rich food traditions and Medicade’s highest Biloxi tribe’s language its masters, keepers and champions ranking hospitals and traditions alive around the state 16 BY JYL BENSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY DENNY CULBERT ARTIST COMPILED BY SARAH RAVITS Michel Varisco: Photographing the shifting and fragile Louisiana landscape 20 HOME Sometimes, a dish is so can see the “during” and enticing photo of the Lakefront Legacy: Maury attractive at every stage and “after” images on stuffed crab shells prior Strong and Ron Caron ON THE of creation, it’s impossible page 35 and 36 in our to pan-frying. Those bits revive a midcentury not to snap it throughout “Culinary Heritage,” of shrimp and white lumb modern home designed COVER its transformation. Chef feature, but for the crab meat and scallions by Curtis & Davis Melissa Martin’s Classic cover, we couldn’t help peeking out from the Cajun Stuffed Crabs but share photographer shells is a temptation are such a dish. You Denny Culbert’s moody we’re unable to resist. 2 Louisiana Life JULY/AUGUST 2017 AWARDS EDITORIAL IRMA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Errol Laborde 2016 MANAGING EDITOR Melanie Warner Spencer Silver ASSOCIATE EDITOR Ashley McLellan Art Direction of a Single Story COPY EDITOR Amanda Orr Sarah George WEB EDITOR Kelly Massicot Bronze TRAVEL EDITOR Paul F. Stahls Jr. Column Melissa FOOD EDITOR Stanley Dry Bienvenue HOME EDITOR Lee Cutrone Bronze Food Feature ART Award of Merit ART DIRECTOR Sarah George Reader Service LEAD PHOTOGRAPHER Danley Romero Article SALES 2012 VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Colleen Monaghan Gold Companion [email protected] Website (504) 830-7215 2011 MARKETING Silver DIRECTOR OF MARKETING & EVENTS Cheryl Lemoine Overall Art Direction EVENT COORDINATOR Whitney Weathers Tiffani Reding DIGITAL MEDIA ASSOCIATE Mallary Matherne Amedeo For event information call (504) 830-7264 PRODUCTION PRESS CLUB PRODUCTION MANAGER Jessica DeBold OF NEW ORLEANS PRODUCTION DESIGNERS Monique Di Pietro, 2016 Demi Schaffer, Molly Tullier Lifetime TRAFFIC COORDINATOR Terra Durio Achievement Award Errol Laborde ADMINISTRATION CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Todd Matherne 1st Place Best Magazine PRESIDENT Alan Campell 1st Place EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Errol Laborde Layout/Design OFFICE MANAGER Mallary Matherne Sarah George DISTRIBUTION MANAGER John Holzer 2nd Place Best Magazine SUBSCRIPTION MANAGER Brittanie Bryant 2nd Place For subscriptions call (504) 830-7231 Layout/Design Sarah George 2nd Place Best Portrait Danley Romero 2nd Place Governmental/ 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123 Political Writing Metairie, LA 70005 Jeremy Alford (504) 828-1380 • LouisianaLife.com 3rd Place Column Louisiana Life (ISSN 1042-9980) is published bimonthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) Melissa 828-1380. Subscription rate: One year $10; Mexico and Canada $48. Bienvenu Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional mailing entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Louisiana Life, 110 3rd Place Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2017 Louisiana Medical/Health Life. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark Louisiana Life is registered. Louisiana Writing Life is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork, Amanda Wicks even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in Louisiana Life are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine or owner. LOUISIANALIFE.COM 3 FROM THE EDITOR A NIGHT AT THE OLD MANSION BY Errol Laborde much bigger than the previous mansions. Like laws and budgets, mansions and capitols are ever-expanding. At the microphone in the old governor’s mansion this past April 12 was the new governor, John Bel Edwards. He was there to participate in a party hosted by Louisiana Life to celebrate Baton Rouge’s Bicentennial. Lt. Governor B²ly Nungesser was also there as was Baton Rouge Mayor-President Sharon Weston Broome and a gathering of contem- porary lawmakers and guests. Nowadays the bu²ding is used as a reception hall. There are few big decisions IT IS OFTEN SAID OF OLD HISTORIC being made on the veranda unless it is buildings, “If these walls could talk...” between having wine or champagne. In the case of the bu²ding commonly Nevertheless, that evening Edwards did play known as The Old Governor’s Mansion, an important non-legislative chief executive much of that talk might have been in role, that of cheerleader. Baton Rouge had a whispers as power wielders from Huey tough year in 2016. Edwards’ remarks were Long to Jimmie Davis negotiated the state’s at first solemn as he mentioned the tragic future, perhaps over biscuits on the veranda. k²lings and then the rage of high waters, On the evening of June 27, 1930 legislators but he also expressed the confidence that attended the opening reception of the stucco the city would rebound and have bright mansion Long had built. No doubt, many days ahead. Both Broome and Nungesser lawmakers thought the bu²ding might be a expressed similar themes, but Edwards’ good place for them to live one day. remarks made the optimism seem official. It was the second gubernatorial home; Legislators looked on knowing that many the first was a frame house that had battles were ahead between them and the originally been bu²t for a local businessman. governor. For the moment though the old As the governor’s residence it lasted mansion was working its charm. The hors from 1887 to 1929. Long’s mansion was d’oeuvres were hot; the wine was chilled; located down the street from the bu²ding and the flower of an adjacent magnolia tree commonly known as the “old state capitol.” opened to the veranda. The house had come That to, did not satisfy Long’s longing for to order. grandeur. He also started the construction of the rocket ship-like state capitol where his life, by then he was a U.S. Senator, would end in 1935 with the echo of gunfire. The so-called “new” Governor’s mansion that Davis bu²t in 1961 is nearby and is 4 Louisiana Life JULY/AUGUST 2017 PHOTO CONTEST Shine A Light ON ME An American Saddlebred Horse from David McCoy Stables in Lake Charles is illuminated by natural light. PHOTO BY Timothy Fontenot, Lake Charles Submit your photos by visiting louisianalife.com 6 Louisiana Life JUJULY/AUGUST 2017 ALONG THE WAY Ardent SPrits Tippling, scribbling and road tripping through the South WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY Melanie Warner Spencer on July 18 and draws hospitality industry professionals and intoxicant aficionados from all over the world. It’s a lot like the South by Southwest Music Festival held in Austin, Texas each year, but for liquor. Actually, it’s just like SXSW, without the music part getting in the way of the drinking. My husband Mark and I, frequent imbibers, were both born and raised in Kentucky, which means we are partial to bourbon. It also means we have consumed drinks during interstate moves or wh²e on road trips (not wh²e driving, of course) at bars in every state and commonwealth between the Bluegrass and the Pelican State. As well as in Texas, Arkansas, Georgia and Florida, leaving eight Southern states to go, but we’ll settle for conquering those we have left in the Southeastern Conference. Once on a road trip to Shreveport I had a mighty terrible cold and laryngitis. Let me tell you, there is no care and comfort greater than a hot toddy delivered by a compassionate bartender or server when you are traveling in a strange city. As much as I love having a drink at SOUTHERNERS, ESPECIALLY SOUTHERN makes you a better writer. I’ve only lived here Sloppy’s Downtown in Lake Charles; writers, are passionate about many a little over three years, but my own prose has Flying Heart Brewing in Bossier City; things including, but not limited to, telling improved exponentially. Or, I’m too sauced and The Chimes in Baton Rouge, to stories, food, football and hooch — and to know one way or another, but we don’t name a few, one of our favorite places to telling stories about food, football and have to figure that out right now.
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