Food in Tolkien's ‘The Lord of the Rings’

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Food in Tolkien's ‘The Lord of the Rings’ ‘What'S Taters, PRECIOUS?’: FOOD IN TOLKIEN'S ‘THE LORD OF THE RINGS’ PAUL FREEDMAN AND MARK ANDERSON YALE UNIVERSITY AND CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY AT SAN BERNARDINO USA Date of reception: 8th of October, 2010 Final date of acceptance: 18th of May, 2011 ABSTRACT “The Lord of the Rings” by J. R. R. Tolkien offers a magnificent panorama of imagined worlds, yet this epic story has very little description of meals. The prosaic but, as it turns out, heroic hobbits are oriented to comfort, which includes frequent dining, but once beyond the pleasant confines of the Shire, the narrative and descriptions involve beings who are either too evil, too grand or too preoccupied to eat. An exceptional moment, from which the article takes its title, is a debate over raw versus cooked food between two principle and otherwise opposed characters, Sam and Gollum. KEY WORDS J. R. R. Tolkien, “Lord of the Rings”, Fantasy Literature, Food. CAPITALIA VERBA J. R. R. Tolkien, “Dominus Anulorum”, Litterae ad phantasiam, Epulae. IMAGO TEMPORIS. MEDIUM AEVUM, VI (2012): 339-350. ISSN 1888-3931 339 340 PAUL FREEDMAN AND MARK ANDERSON J. R. R. Tolkien, author of what is arguably the most popular work of serious fiction written in the twentieth century, was an eminent scholar of medieval philology and literature.1 It is obvious that the culture, diction and word-forms of the northern Middle Ages infuse “The Lord of the Rings” and its allied works, and so, logically, attempts have been made to interest students in medieval literature via Tolkien's imagination.2 Yet medieval cookery plays no role in creating the atmosphere of Middle-earth in Tolkien's grand narrative.3 There are banquets, minstrels, singing, poetry and generally all manner of medieval ceremonial, but the gastronomic content of the great feasts is invisible since they are provided by elves and the most high-born men of Middle-earth whose interest in the consuming body is minimal. In fact not very much food of any sort is on offer in the “Lord of the Rings”. What meals there are consist of rather basic items such as bread, cheese, bacon and fruit and the only group interested in the pleasures of the table are the hobbits of the Shire. To be sure, a number of feasts are celebrated in the course of “The Lord of the Rings”, but scant account is given of any specific foods included on these occasions. This is in part due to Tolkien's mastery at evoking vivid scenes without obtrusive or burdensome detail. Part of the magic of imagined worlds is that the mundane aspects of life, such as the constant need for sustenance, don’t have to be meticulously accounted for. In “The Hobbit”, a predecessor to “The Lord of the Rings”, the marvelous is encountered by relatively prosaic hobbits and dwarves and because hobbits are fussy about regular and tasty meals, there is much more to say about dining (or the misfortunes of not dining) than in the more grandiose epic. The members of this first quest (undertaken for treasure and not to save the world), are often famished. In “The Hobbit”, sinister and supernatural characters (elves, trolls, even the wizard Gandalf) are depicted as eating ordinary food. In the three books of “Lord of the Rings”, however, the meals become scarce and there is little mention of food at all as the perilous journey moves far from the Shire. If a concern with food is one of the chief characteristics of hobbits and an emblem of their likeable ordinariness, it is also part of their early twentieth century Englishness whose contrast with the tropes of epic and romance are a central conceit of Tolkien's 1. Among the most useful general studies of Tolkien's works and their enduring popularity are: White, Michael. Tolkien: A Biography. London: Penguin, 2001; Shippey, Tom. J. R. R. Tolkien: Author of the Century. New York: Houghton Mifflin, 2000; Rosebury, Brian.Tolkien: A Cultural Phenomenon. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2003; Curry, Patrick. Defending Middle-earth: Tolkien, Myth and Modernity. Edinburgh: Floris Books, 1997. 2. Lee, Stuart D.; Solopova, Elizabeth. The Keys of Middle-earth: Discovering Medieval Literature through the Fiction of J. R. R. Tolkien. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2005. 3. The absence of sophisticated cooking in Tolkien's works also reflects his personal tastes. He once wrote of himself, “I am in fact a ‘Hobbit’ (in all but size). I like gardens, trees and unmechanized farmlands; I smoke a pipe, and like good plain food (unrefrigerated), but detest French cooking...”, The Letters of J. R. R. Tolkien, Humphrey Carpenter, J. R. R. Tolkien, Christopher Tolkien, eds. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1981: 288-289. For a further discussion of Tolkien's personal tastes see the entry on Food and Drink in: The J. R. R. Tolkien Companion and Guide, Christina Scull, Wayne G. Hammond, eds. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2006: I, 320-321. IMAGO TEMPORIS. MEDIUM AEVUM, VI (2012): 339-350. ISSN 1888-3931 ‘WHAT’S TATERS, PRECIOUS?’: FOOD IN TOLKIEN’S 341 Middle-earth and part of the appeal of his books. It isn’t appropiate do for hobbits to express their love of dining by doing so on medieval food, because they function as characters who have modern sensibilities (or at least those contemporary with Tolkien's preferences) who are thus an effective means of interpretation of a fantastic world tinged by medieval literature, but not slavishly based on it. Landscape, memory, and weather are more important in “The Lord of the Rings” than the minutiae of everyday life. The familiar must be balanced with the fantastic and the fantastic can’t be too literally medieval. It won’t do to have banquets that involve dishes that are too familiar as that spoils the sense of distance and otherness, but at the same time, having already invented languages, geographies and creatures, too much attention to a wholly unfamiliar cuisine would make Middle-earth an excessively mapped-out world. Yet if the food is too consistently medieval, the uncanny and evocative but unpredictable appeal of Tolkien's world would be in danger of having an archaic rather than an imaginative atmosphere. Tolkien was adept at rationing out his medieval inspiration so that although broken swords, subterranean miner-dwarves and herb-lore are taken from the literature of the Middle Ages, the imagined Middle-earth is considerably more than a neo- medieval fancy.4 If the food of Middle-earth were to seem too much like that of medieval Europe (swans, game, spices) this might look like excessively literal borrowing from the Middle Ages. On the other hand, if the food were too fanciful, the story would take on the coloration of science fiction: making it part of an alternate and hence possibly irrelevant universe.5 “The Lord of the Rings” is a fantasy, but an erudite, controlled, complex and compelling one created through selective yet vivid details and atmosphere. Scenes involving meals in “Lord of the Rings” highlight the hobbits’ affinity with cultivated and pleasantly scenic nature over and against the supernatural realm, exemplified by the elves and other beneficent fantastic creatures such as the Ents as well as the anti-natural force of the Dark Lord, Sauron. Each of the three tiers in Tolkien's cosmology (immortal elves, humans and hobbits, and the evil beings controlled by Sauron) has a mode of food consumption specific to it and changes in character arcs are signified in part by changes in what and how they eat as they move up or down within the system. Frodo loses his hobbit's preoccupation with food as he approaches Mordor and Mount Doom; Gollum has fallen from a hobbit- like state of normal appetite to an eagerness for disgusting food; Saruman's descent is marked by an appetite for physical sustenance inappropriate for a wizard in good standing. Throughout the epic, however, different sorts of beings are associated with different levels of interest in food. The major contrast is between the hobbits, through whose eyes the story is told, and almost everyone else. The hobbits enjoy and think 4. On Tolkien and the Middle Ages see the essays edited in: Chance, Jane. Tolkien the Medievalist. London: Routledge, 2003. 5. See Tolkien's comments on the first feature films ofThe Lord of the Rings for an explanation of his dislike of “scientification” in stories,The Letters of J. R. R. Tolkien...: 270-277. IMAGO TEMPORIS. MEDIUM AEVUM, VI (2012): 339-350. ISSN 1888-3931 342 PAUL FREEDMAN AND MARK ANDERSON about food (although not in great detail) while everyone else either doesn’t require physical nourishment because of their supernatural power, or merely subsists. There is some food and actually quite a lot of drink in the story, but not consistently. Bread, cheese, fruit, smoked or salted pork, honey, milk, wine and beer are the most frequently mentioned fare, simple items plausible in both a medieval and a modern setting. There are some exceptions and we will discuss the anomaly of the only significant cooked meal in “Lord of the Rings”: the rabbit stew Sam prepares on the border of Mordor. As we’ve said, the story is not bogged down by meticulous description of accoutrements or consumption. The beauty and horror of Middle-earth are vividly depicted but not its economy or the details of its material culture. One should not inquire too closely about how agriculture, land-tenure or the supply and distribution of goods function in Middle-earth. There are whole regions and many episodes in which the logistics of food are ignored completely.6 How, for example, do the hosts of evil land of Mordor survive? While Mordor as seen by the hobbits is almost completely desolate, Tolkien tells his readers in an aside that there were agricultural territories around Mordor's inland sea of Núrnen worked by slaves to feed the armies of orcs as well as tributary lands to the south and east7.
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