Crazy About the Catlins in Which MARK GARRISON, a Canadian, Journeys Where Few Kiwis Seem to Have Journeyed Before
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The city’s aflood And our love turns to rust We’re beaten and blown by the wind Trampled in dust I’ll show you a place High on a desert plain Where the streets have no name U2 crazy about the catlins in which MARK GARRISON, a Canadian, journeys where few Kiwis seem to have journeyed before. And in the process he almost stumbles over a couple of sea lions that he’s mistaken for boulders. Which anyone can do ... not just Canadians. When I first mentioned to friends I was off on a trip to the Catlins This remains the worst civilian shipping disaster in NZ history. Just The logs, closely related to Kauri and Norfolk pine, were buried can make a stop at Jack’s Blowhole, a 55m deep hole located I was met with blank stares and furrowed brows. Even native down from the lighthouse, in a lonely sheep pasture, lies the final in volcanic mud over 180 million years ago. This petrified wood, 200m from the sea, formed by the collapse of a subterranean cave. Kiwis were stumped. resting place of 55 of those unfortunate souls, in a section of land which feels like stone, is best seen during low tide. While the turgid sea churns at the bottom of the hole, winds I cannot blame them for their quizzical looks however, as the known as Tararua Acre. Accommodation in the Catlins is sparse, but Curio Bay does offer are forced upwards from the force of the water erupting Catlins lies outside the usual tourist haunts of the South Island. The Waipapa Point is also a perfect place to see sea lions up close. a handful of bed and breakfasts and backpacker style rooms. In through the underground tunnels leading to the sea. If by now holy trinity of Queenstown, Wanaka and Milford Sound sadly have Caution is required while walking along the broad beach here as addition there is a popular campsite located on the headlands reaching Dunedin seems too strenuous of a task, plan to stop a monopoly over all of the tourist glory for the region. sea lions are often strangely hard-to-spot as their enormous girth above the bay. Food and gas and other amenities are also limited overnight at Surat Bay where you will find a limited selection of Lying quietly wedged in among the hills, bays, and wind-battered makes them resemble boulders washed up on the sand. so make sure you stock up on essentials before heading out. accommodation. coastline of the south-east coast, the Catlins is a region worth Once I almost walked over a couple of lions who were gelled After Curio Bay, your next stop should be McLean Falls, on the The final must-see stop of the journey is Nugget Point, and its visiting, if only because you truly get to escape the maddening together in deep slumber, their slowly-rising bellies being the only Tautuku River, where the 22m falls spill over various steps into the stunning lighthouse, built in 1870. Located at the far end of a crowds that constantly invade Queenstown and its environs. indication that this boulder was in fact two living beasts of the sea. lush forest below. The falls are a 10 minute drive from the main barren windswept point, the lighthouse commands a towering Tucked in on the bottom of the South Island, the Catlins crams an Rousing one of these giants from a pleasant sun-induced slumber highway, followed by a delightful and relaxed 2km stroll. position 76m above the jagged, merciless rocks below. From the incredibly diverse selection of flora and fauna into its compact would most certainly be tantamount to playing chicken with a train. Cathedral Caves is next on the list of natural wonders you will get deck surrounding the lighthouse, you have a terrific view of a 1900 sqkm area, and some of the most jaw-dropping scenery to Continuing onwards, your next point of interest is the desolate to revel in as you wander through the region. These caverns reach group of tiny rocky islands known as the Nuggets. be found in the country. The lack of sizable communities only adds Slope Point, which is 70km east of Invercargill. The southernmost as high as 30m, and are a major tourist draw. These inhospitable rocks are home to gannett and spoonbill to the area’s remote feel, and its gentle, laid-back pace. point of the South Island is only accessible outside of lambing It is important to note that the caves are only accessible one hour colonies. As you walk out towards the lighthouse, the shoreline It is an easy two-hour drive from Queenstown to Invercargill, the season, and is marked by a sign showing the distances to the before and one hour after low tide, so plan your trip accordingly. far below is home to penguins, sea lions and seals. Even in surprisingly delightful gateway to the Catlins, where you begin to Equator and the South Pole. The parking for the caves is also privately owned so be prepared poor weather the walk to the lighthouse is worthwhile as the follow the Southern Scenic Route which languorously winds its way The wind sweeps over the land with such force it is a wonder it to pay the attendants. The path to the beach is well maintained but combination of the pounding sea, the roaring winds, driving rain towards Dunedin. doesn’t pull the wool directly off the resident sheep. not appropriate for those with mobility issues. and the sheer rock falls and cliffs make for a spectacular show of Heading east through the placid pastures of the Southlands A perfect place to stop and rest your weary head comes at Curio As you continue along towards Dunedin, there are a number of nature. you enter the Catlins region passing through the small town of Bay, which is a naturalist’s dream. It is home to a yellow-eyed stops which you can choose to make. Lake Wilkie, Matai Falls, and You feel slightly vulnerable and insignificant as you stare out to the Fortrose. It is at this point the grasslands slowly cede to the sharp penguin colony which draws delighted spectators who thrill to the the Catlins River Walk are all possible places to break your trip, but never-ending stretches of dark-blue ocean. twisted cliffs which fall precipitously to the ocean far below. if you are planning to make Dunedin before nightfall, your next sight of the penguins returning to their families after a day foraging From Nugget Point it is just a short drive to Balclutha, and then stop should be Purakaunui Falls. Long stretches of near-deserted beach make this an ideal stop for at sea. The penguins hop over the rocks, as their anxious partners another 80km onto Dunedin, which is also a terrific city in which to a romantic stroll or an invigorating dip. call to them from the safety of their nests hidden in the brush. The 20m high waterfall flows over a multi-tiered drop, and the spend a few days. The trip through this region is truly remarkable, The first major stop on this route comes at Waipapa Point, the Curio Bay is also a prime spot to see Hector’s dolphins swimming idyllic setting of the falls has made it a favourite photo stop for and is accessible year-round. It is recommended that you book location of one of the last two wooden lighthouses built in NZ. The just offshore, as well as the more reticent southern right whales. In visitors. The dense foliage encloses the falls on all sides, creating a accommodation in advance. In rain, or sunshine, the stunning Waipapa Point lighthouse was built in 1884 following the sinking of addition the penguin colony is located at the sight of the Jurassic mystical other-worldly essence to the scene. scenery, abundant wildlife, and the empty beaches make it a place the SS Tararua off Otara Point in which 131 people lost their lives. Petrified Forest, one of the foremost fossilised forests in the world. Passing through Owaka, the largest community in the Catlins, you that will never be forgotten. 40 / The Gardens Travel / 41 .