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1 The Best of Australia by Marc Llewellyn & Lee Mylne

Maybe we’re biased because we live here, but Australia has a lot of bests—world bests, that is. It has some of the best natural scenery, the weirdest wildlife, the most brilliant scuba diving and snorkeling, the best beaches (shut up, California), the old- est rainforest (110 million years and counting), the oldest human civilization (some archaeologists say 40,000 years, some say 120,000; whatever—it’s old), the best wines (come see what we mean), the best weather (give or take the odd Wet season in the north), the most innovative East-meets-West-meets-someplace-else cuisine—all bathed in sunlight that brings everything up in Technicolor. “Best” means different things to different people, but scarcely a visitor lands on these shores without having the Great Barrier Reef at the top of the “Things to See” list. So they should, because it really is a glorious natural masterpiece. Also high on most folks’ lists is Ayers Rock. This monolith must have some kind of magnet inside it designed to attract planeloads of tourists. We’re not saying the Rock isn’t special, but we think the vast Australian desert all around it is even more so. The third attraction on most visitors’ lists is Sydney, the Emerald City that glitters in the antipodean sun- shine on—here we go with the “bests” again—the best harbor, spanned by the best bridge in the world (yes it is, San Francisco). But as planes zoom overhead delivering visitors to the big three attractions, Aussies in charming country towns, on far-flung beaches, on rustic sheep stations, in rainfor- est villages, and in mountain lodges shake their heads and say sadly, “They don’t know what they’re missin’.” Well, that’s the aim of this chapter—to show you what you’re missin’. Read on, and consider taking the road less traveled.

1 The Top Travel Experiences • Hitting the Rails on the Indian just do a section. See “Getting Pacific Train: This 3-day journey Around Australia” in chapter 2. across the Outback regularly makes it • Experiencing Sydney (NSW): Sydney onto travelCOPYRIGHTED magazines’ “Top Rail Jour- is moreMATERIAL than just the magnificent Har- neys in the World” lists. The desert bour Bridge and Opera House. No scenery ain’t all that magnificent—it’s other city has beaches in such abun- the unspoiled, empty vastness that dance, and few have such a magnifi- passengers appreciate. It includes the cently scenic harbor. Our advice is to longest straight stretch of track in the board a ferry, walk from one side of the world, 478km (296 miles) across the bridge to the other, and try to spend a treeless Nullarbor Plain. Start in Syd- week here, because you’re going to ney and end in Perth, or vice versa, or need it. See chapter 4, “Sydney.” 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA Australia

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To Tasmania (see inset) 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 7

THE TOP TRAVEL EXPERIENCES 7

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TToo TasmaniaTasmania (see(see inset)inset) 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA

Tips A Note on Abbreviations In the listings below, NSW stands for New South Wales, QLD for Queensland, NT for the Northern Territory, WA for Western Australia, SA for South Australia, VIC for Victoria, TAS for Tasmania, and ACT for the Australian Capital Territory.

• Seeing the Great Barrier Reef • Exploring Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) & (QLD): It’s a glorious 2,000km-long Uluru (Ayers Rock) (NT): Just why (1,240-mile) underwater coral fairy- everyone comes thousands of miles to land with electric colors and bizarre see the big red stone of Ayers Rock is a fish life—and it comes complete with mystery, and that’s probably why they warm water and year-round sun- come—because the Rock is a mystery. shine. This is what you came to Aus- Just 50km (31 miles) from Ayers Rock tralia to see. When you’re not are the round red heads of the Olgas, a snorkeling over coral and giant clams second rock formation more signifi- almost as big as you, scuba diving, cant to Aborigines and more intrigu- calling at tropical towns, or lying on ing to many visitors. See “Uluru–Kata deserted island beaches, you’ll be try- Tjuta National Park (Ayers Rock/The ing out the sun lounges or enjoying Olgas)” in chapter 8. the first-rate food. See chapter 7, • Taking an Aboriginal Culture Tour “Queensland & the Great Barrier (Alice Springs, NT): Eating female Reef.” wasps, contemplating a hill as a giant • Exploring the Wet Tropics Rainfor- resting caterpillar, and imagining that est (QLD): Folks who come from the stars are your grandmother smil- skyscraper cities like Manhattan and ing down at you will give you a new Los Angeles can’t get over the mois- perspective on Aboriginal culture. See ture-dripping ferns, the neon-blue what we mean on a half-day tour butterflies, and the primeval peace of from the Aboriginal Art & Culture this World Heritage rainforest Centre. See p. 385. stretching north, south, and west • Discovering the Kimberley (WA): from Cairns. Hike it, four-wheel- Australia’s last frontier, the Kimberley drive it, or glide over the treetops in is a romantic cocktail of South Sea the Skyrail gondola. See “Cairns” in pearls, red mountain ranges, aqua chapter 7. seas, deadly crocodiles, Aboriginal • Bareboat Sailing in the Whitsun- rock art, and million-acre farms in a days (QLD): Bareboat means never-ending wilderness. Cross it by unskippered—that’s right, even if you four-wheel-drive, stay in safari tents think port is an after-dinner drink, on a cattle ranch, swim under water- you can charter a yacht, pay for a falls, ride a camel along the beach in day’s instruction from a skipper, and Broome, and more. See chapter 9, then take over the helm yourself and “The Top End.” explore these 74 island gems. It’s easy. • Rolling in Wildflowers (WA): Imag- Anchor in deserted bays, snorkel over ine Texas three times over and cov- dazzling reefs, fish for coral trout, and ered in wildflowers. That’s what feel the wind in your sails. See “The much of Western Australia looks like Whitsunday Coast & Islands” in every spring, from around August chapter 7. through October, when pink, mauve, 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 9

THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES 9 red, white, yellow, and blue wildflow- Outback to visit remote pubs and set- ers bloom. Aussies flock here for this tlements, the craggy ridges of the spectacle, so book ahead. See the box Flinders Ranges, dry salt lakes, and “Tiptoeing through the Wildflowers” deserts. See chapter 11, “Adelaide & in chapter 10. South Australia.” • Drinking in the Barossa Valley • Seeing the Sights along the Great (SA): One of Australia’s four largest Ocean Road (VIC): This 106km wine-producing areas, this German- (66-mile) coastal road carries you speaking region less than an hour’s past wild and stunning beaches, drive from Adelaide is also the pretti- forests, and dramatic cliff-top est. Adelaide’s restaurants happen to scenery—including the Twelve Apos- be some of the country’s best, too, so tles, a dozen pillars of red rock stand- test out your wine purchases with the ing in isolation in the foaming city’s terrific food. See “Side Trips Southern Ocean. See “The Great from Adelaide” in chapter 11. Ocean Road: One of the World’s • Getting Dusty in the Desert (SA): Most Scenic Drives” in chapter 13. Head inland from Adelaide to the

2 The Best Outdoor Adventures • Sea Kayaking: Kayaking is a great of eucalyptus in your nostrils is not way to explore Queensland’s Whit- everyone’s idea of fun, but you sure sunday Islands as well as Dunk Island know you’re alive. Several operators off Mission Beach in Queensland. welcome both novices and the more Rivergods (& 08/9259 0749; www. experienced. See “The Blue Moun- rivergods.com.au) in Perth even takes tains” in chapter 5. you on a sea-kayaking day trip to • White-Water Rafting on the Tully snorkel with wild sea lions and watch River (Mission Beach, QLD): The penguins feeding. This Western Aus- Class III to IV rapids of the Tully tralian company also runs multiday River swoosh between lush, rain- expeditions past whales, dolphins, forested banks. The guides are profes- and sharks in Shark Bay, and over sional, and the rapids are just hairy coral at Ningaloo Reef on the North- enough to be fun. It’s a good choice west Cape. For details on the Whit- for first-time rafters. See “The North sunday Islands and Dunk Island, see Coast: Mission Beach, Townsville & chapter 7. For information about the Islands” in chapter 7. Perth and Western Australia, see • Four-Wheel-Driving on Fraser chapter 10. Island (QLD): Burning down 75- • Horse Trekking in the Snowy mile Beach in a 4×4 on the biggest Mountains (NSW): Ride the ranges sand island in the world is liberating, like the man from Snowy River, stay- if not great for the environment. ing in bush lodges or camping Paradoxically, the island is ecologi- beneath the stars. See “In the Foot- cally important and popular with steps of the Man from Snowy River” nature lovers. Hike its eucalyptus in chapter 5. forests and rainforests, swim its clear • Abseiling (Rappelling) in the Blue lakes, and fish off the beach. See Mountains (NSW): Careering back- “Fraser Island: Ecoadventures & ward down a cliff face with the smell Four-Wheel-Drive Fun” in chapter 7. 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA • Game Fishing: Battle a black marlin Aboriginal communities, shower off Cairns and you might snare the under waterfalls, hike virgin bushland, world record; that’s how big they get and camp in swags on the banks. See down there. Marlin and other game “Katherine” in chapter 9. catches run around much of the Aus- • Surfing in Margaret River (WA): A tralian coastline—Exmouth on the 90-minute surf lesson with four-time Northwest Cape in Western Australia Western Australia surf champ Josh (see chapter 10), and Broome and Palmateer is a great introduction to Darwin in the Top End (see chapter the sport—if only to hear Josh’s 9) are two other hotspots. Aussie accent! In July and August, • Canoeing the Top End (NT): Pad- Josh shifts his classes to Cable Beach dling between the sun-drenched in Broome. See chapter 10. ocher walls of Katherine Gorge • Skiing in the Victorian Alps (VIC): sharpens the senses, especially when a Skiing in Australia? Sure. When (harmless) freshwater crocodile pops you’ve had enough coral and sand, up! Gecko Canoeing (& 1800/634 you can hit the slopes in Victoria. 319 in Australia, or 08/8972 2224; Where else can you swish down the www.geckocanoeing.com.au) will take mountain between gum trees? See you downriver to the rarely explored “The High Country” in chapter 13. Flora and Daly River systems to visit

3 The Best Places to View Wildlife • Pebbly Beach (NSW): The eastern to hundreds of bird species, including gray kangaroos that inhabit Murra- black cockatoos, as well as plenty of marang National Park, 20 minutes possums. See “South of Sydney along south of Ulladulla on the south coast the Princes Highway” in chapter 5. of New South Wales, tend to congre- • Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (Bris- gate along this beach and the adjoin- bane, QLD): Cuddle a koala (and ing dunes. See “South of Sydney have your photo taken doing it) at along the Princes Highway” in chap- this park, the world’s first and largest ter 5. koala sanctuary. Apart from some • Montague Island (Narooma, NSW): 130 koalas, lots of other Aussie This little island just offshore from wildlife—including wombats, Tas- the seaside town of Narooma, on the manian devils, ’roos (which you can south coast, is a haven for nesting hand-feed), and colorful parakeets— seabirds, but the water around it is are on show. See p. 254. home to the main attractions. Dol- • Hervey Bay (QLD): The warm phins are common; fairy penguins, waters off Hervey Bay, and in partic- too. In whale-watching season, you’re ular the lovely Platypus Bay, on the sure to spot southern right and Queensland coast, are where the humpback whales. See “South of humpback whales come each year Sydney along the Princes Highway” between June and October in increas- in chapter 5. ing numbers to give birth. The long • Jervis Bay (NSW): This is probably journey from Antarctica brings them the closest place to Sydney where up the coast to frolic with their young you’re certain to see kangaroos in the for several months before making the wild—and where you can pet them, return trip. Hervey Bay’s many too. The national park here is home cruises can bring you closer to these 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 11

THE BEST PLACES TO VIEW WILDLIFE 11 gentle giants than you’ll ever come • Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary elsewhere. See “Fraser Island: Ecoad- (The Gold Coast, QLD): Tens of ventures & Four-Wheel-Drive Fun” thousands of unbelievably pretty red, in chapter 7. blue, green, and yellow rainbow lori- • Australian Butterfly Sanctuary keets have been screeching into this (Kuranda, near Cairns, QLD): Walk park for generations to be hand-fed through the biggest butterfly “aviary” by delighted visitors every morning in Australia and see some of Aus- and afternoon. The sanctuary has tralia’s most gorgeous butterflies, ’roos and other Australian animals, including the electric-blue Ulysses. too, but the birds steal the show. See See many species of butterfly feed, lay p. 369. eggs, and mate, and inspect caterpil- • Kakadu National Park (NT): One- lars and pupae. Wearing pink, red, or third of Australia’s bird species live in white encourages the butterflies to Kakadu; so do lots of saltwater crocs. land on you. See p. 293. A cruise on the Yellow Water Bill- • Wait-a-While Rainforest Tours abong, or aboard the Original Jump- (QLD): Head into the World Her- ing Crocodiles cruise en route to the itage–listed Wet Tropics Rainforest park, are some of the best ways to see behind Cairns or Port Douglas with them in the wild. See “Kakadu this ecotour operator to spotlight National Park” in chapter 9. possums, lizards, pythons, even a • The Northwest Cape (WA): For the platypus, so shy that most Aussies thrill of a lifetime, go snorkeling with have never seen one in the wild. a whale shark. No one knows where About once a month, a group will they come from, but these mysterious spot the rare, bizarre Lumholtz’s tree monsters (up to 18m/60 ft. long) sur- kangaroo. See “Cairns” in chapter 7. face in the Outback waters off West- • Heron Island (off Gladstone, QLD): ern Australia every year from March There’s wonderful wildlife on this to early June. A mini-industry takes “jewel in the Reef” any time of year, snorkelers out to swim alongside the but the best time to visit is November sharks as they feed (on plankton, not to March, when the life cycle of giant snorkelers). See “The Midwest & the green loggerhead and hawksbill tur- Northwest: Where the Outback tles is in full swing. From November Meets the Sea” in chapter 10. to January, the turtles come ashore to • Tangalooma (QLD), Bunbury lay their eggs. From late January to (WA) & Monkey Mia (WA): In sev- March, the hatchlings emerge and eral places, you can see, hand-feed, or head for the water. You can see it all swim with wild dolphins. At Bun- by strolling down to the beach, or join bury, south of Perth, you can swim a university researcher to get the full with them or join cruises to see them story. See “The Capricorn Coast & (they come right up to the boat). If the Southern Reef Islands” in chapter you want an almost guaranteed dol- 7. Mon Repos Turtle Rookery, near phin sighting, head to Tangalooma Bundaberg in Queensland (see “Up Wild Dolphin Resort on Moreton Close & Personal with a Turtle,” p. Island, off Brisbane, where you can 348) and the Northwest Cape in hand-feed them, or to Monkey Mia Western Australia (see “The Midwest on the lonely Outback coast, where & the Northwest: Where the Out- they cruise past your legs. Even better back Meets the Sea” in chapter 10) are is a cruise on the Shotover catamaran two other good turtle-watching sites. to see some of the area’s 10,000 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA dugongs (manatees), plus turtles, sea lions—than anywhere else in the snakes, sharks—and more. See chap- country, apart from a wildlife park. ters 6 and 10. Another plus: The distances between • Kangaroo Island (SA): You’re sure to major points of interest are not great, see more native animals here— so you won’t spend half the day just including koalas, wallabies, birds, getting from place to place. See “Kan- echidnas, reptiles, seals, and sea garoo Island” in chapter 11.

4 The Best Places to Experience the Outback • Broken Hill (NSW): There’s no bet- from the earth here. To the west of ter place to experience real Outback Alice Springs are dramatic gorges, idyl- life than in Broken Hill. There’s the lic (and bloody cold) water holes, and city itself, with its thriving art scene cute wallabies. To the east are Aborigi- and the Royal Flying Doctor service; nal rock carvings and the Ross River a historic ghost town on its outskirts; Homestead, where you can crack a cat- a national park with Aboriginal wall tle whip, throw a boomerang, feast on paintings; an opal mining town damper and billy tea, and ride a horse nearby; and plenty of kangaroos, or camel in the bush. See “Road Trips emus, and giant wedge-tailed eagles. from Alice Springs” in chapter 8. See “Outback New South Wales” in • Kings Canyon (NT): Anyone who chapter 5. saw the cult flick The Adventures of • Lightning Ridge (NSW): This opal- Priscilla, Queen of the Desert will mining town is as rough-and-ready as remember the scene in which the the stones the miners pull out of the transvestites climb a soaring orange ground. Meet amazing characters, cliff and survey the desert floor. That share in the eccentricity of the place, was Kings Canyon, about 320km and visit opal-rush areas with mole- (198 miles) from Alice Springs in one hill scenery made by the old sun- direction, with Ayers Rock in the bleached mine tailings. See “Outback other. Trek the dramatic rim or take New South Wales” in chapter 5. the easier shady route along the bot- • Uluru–Kata Tjuta National Park tom. Don’t forget your lipstick, guys. (Ayers Rock, NT): Sure, Ayers Rock See “Kings Canyon” in chapter 8. will enthrall you with its eerie beauty, • The Northwest Cape (WA): This but the nearby Olgas are more sooth- treeless moonscape of red anthills, ing, more interesting, and taller than spiky spinifex, and blazing heat seems the Rock, so make the time to wander to go on forever, so it’s all the more through them, too. Hike the Rock’s amazing to find a beautiful coral reef base, burn around it on a Harley- offshore. Drive the rugged hills in a Davidson, saunter up to it on a camel, four-wheel-drive vehicle, dodging climb it if you must. Don’t go home kangaroos on the way; swim with until you’ve felt the powerful heart- giant manta rays; snorkel right off the beat of the desert. See “Uluru–Kata beach; scuba dive coral outcroppings; Tjuta National Park (Ayers Rock/The and laze on blindingly white beaches. Olgas)” in chapter 8. This is where the Outback meets the • The MacDonnell Ranges (NT): The sea. See “The Midwest & the North- Aborigines say these red rocky hills west: Where the Outback Meets the were formed by the Aboriginal Sea” in chapter 10. “Caterpillar Dreaming” that wriggled 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 13

THE BEST BEACHES 13 • Coober Pedy (SA): It may be hot and stations (ranches). It’s a 12-hour, dusty, but you’ll get a true taste of the 600km (372-mile) journey along Outback when you tag along with sun-baked dirt roads. See “Outback the local mail carrier as he makes South Australia” in chapter 11. his rounds to the area’s remote cattle

5 The Best Beaches • Palm Beach (Sydney): At the end of through September to avoid marine a string of beaches stretching north stingers. See “The North Coast: Mis- from Sydney, Palm Beach is long and sion Beach, Townsville & the Islands” white, with good surfing and a golf in chapter 7. course. See chapter 4, “Sydney.” • Whitehaven Beach (Whitsunday • Hyams Beach (Jervis Bay, NSW): Island, QLD): It’s not a surf beach, 3 This beach in off-the-beaten-path but this 6km (3 ⁄4-mile) stretch of Jervis Bay is said to be the whitest in white silica sand on uninhabited the world. You need to wear sunblock Whitsunday Island is pristine and if you decide to stroll along it, peaceful. Bring a book, curl up under because the reflection from the sun, the rainforest lining its edge, and fan- even on a cloudy day, can give you a tasize that the cruise boat is going to nasty sunburn. The beach squeaks as leave without you. See “The Whit- you walk. See “South of Sydney along sunday Coast & Islands” in chapter 7. the Princes Highway” in chapter 5. • Surfers Paradise Beach (Gold Coast, • Four Mile Beach (Port Douglas, QLD): Actually, all 35 of the beaches QLD): The sea is turquoise, the sun is on the 30km (19-mile) Gold Coast warm, the palms sway, and the low- strip in south Queensland are worthy rise hotels starting to line this country of inclusion here. Every one has sand beach can’t spoil the feeling that it is a so clean it squeaks, great surf, and million miles from anywhere. But isn’t fresh breezes—ignore the tacky high- there always a serpent in paradise? In rises. Surfers will like Burleigh Heads. this case the “serpents” are north See “The Gold Coast” in chapter 7. Queensland’s seasonal, potentially • Cable Beach (Broome, WA): Is it the deadly marine stingers. Come from South Sea pearls pulled out of the June through September to avoid Indian Ocean, the camels loping them, or confine your swimming to along the sand, the sunsets, the surf, the stinger net the rest of the year. See or the red earth meeting the green sea “Port Douglas, Daintree & the Cape that gives this beach its exotic appeal? Tribulation Area” in chapter 7. Maybe it’s the 26km (16 miles) of • Mission Beach (QLD): Azure water, white sand. The only time to swim islands dotting the horizon, and white here is June through September, sand edged by vine forests make this when deadly marine stingers aren’t beach a real winner. The bonus is that around. See “The Kimberley: A Far- hardly anyone comes here. Cas- Flung Wilderness” in chapter 10. sowaries (giant emulike birds) hide in • Cottesloe Beach (Perth, WA): Perth the rainforest, and the tiny town of has 19 great beaches, but this petite Mission Beach makes itself invisible crescent is the prettiest. After you’ve behind the leaves. Visit from June checked out the scene, join the 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA fashionable set for brunch in the Indi- head to Scarborough and Trigg. ana Tea House, a mock-Edwardian See chapter 10, “Perth & Western bathhouse fronting the sea. Surfers Australia.”

6 The Best Diving & Snorkeling Sites • Port Douglas (QLD): Among the • Yongala wreck (QLD): Sunk by a fabulous dive sites off Port Douglas, cyclone in 1911, the 120m (394-ft.) north of Cairns, are Split-Bommie, SS Yongala lies in the Coral Sea off with its delicate fan corals and Townsville. Schools of trevally, king- schools of fusiliers; Barracuda Pass, fish, barracuda, and batfish surround with its coral gardens and giant the wreckage; giant Queensland clams; and the swim-through coral grouper live under the bow, lionfish spires of the Cathedrals. Snorkelers hide under the stern, turtles graze can glide over the coral and reef fish on the hull, and hard and soft corals life of Agincourt Reef. See “Port make their home on it. It’s too far Douglas, Daintree & the Cape Tribu- for a day trip; live-aboard trips lation Area” in chapter 7. run from Townsville and Cairns. See • Lizard Island (QLD): Snorkel over “The North Coast: Mission Beach, 150-year-old giant clams—as well as Townsville & the Islands” in chapter 7. gorgeous underwater coral—in the • The Whitsunday Islands (QLD): As Clam Garden, off this exclusive resort well as Blue Pearl Bay, these 74 island northeast of Cairns. Nearby is breathtaking islands offer countless the famous Cod Hole, where divers dive sites both among the islands and can hand-feed giant potato cod. See on the Outer Great Barrier Reef, 90 p. 299. minutes away. Bait Reef on the Outer • Cairns (QLD): Moore, Norman, Reef is popular for its drop-offs. Hardy, Saxon, and Arlington reefs Snorkelers can explore not just the and Michaelmas and Upolu cays—all Outer Reef, but also patch reefs about 90 minutes off Cairns—offer among the islands and rarely visited great snorkeling and endless dive fringing reefs around many islands. sites. Explore on a day trip from See “The Whitsunday Coast & Cairns or join a live-aboard adven- Islands” in chapter 7. ture. See “Cairns” in chapter 7. • Heron Island (QLD): Easily the • Coral Sea (QLD): In this sea east of number-one snorkel and dive site in the Great Barrier Reef off north Australia. If you stayed in the water Queensland, you’ll see sharks feeding for a week, you couldn’t snorkel all at Predator’s Playground; 1,000m the acres of coral stretching from (3,280 ft.) drop-offs in the Abyss; shore. Take your pick of 22 dive sites: reefs covering hundreds of square the Coral Cascades, with football miles; and tropical species not found trout and anemones; the Blue Pools, on the Great Barrier Reef. This is not favored by octopus, turtles, and a day-trip destination; many dive sharks; Heron Bommie, with its rays, operators run multiday trips on live- eels, and Spanish dancers; and more. aboard vessels. Visibility is excellent— Absolute magic. See “The Capricorn up to 100m (328 ft.). See “The North Coast & the Southern Reef Islands” Coast: Mission Beach, Townsville & in chapter 7. the Islands” in chapter 7. 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 15

THE BEST PLACES TO BUSHWALK (HIKE) 15 • Lady Elliot Island (QLD): Gor- suggested snorkel trails, and head off geous coral lagoons, perfect for snor- to find their own private coral gar- keling, line this coral cay island off den. The sunken grotto of Fishhook the town of Bundaberg. Boats take Bay is great for fish life. See “Side you farther out to snorkel above Trips from Perth” in chapter 10. manta rays, plate coral, and big fish. • Ningaloo Reef (WA): A well-kept Divers can swim through the blow- secret is how we’d describe Australia’s hole, 16m (52 ft.) down, and see gor- second great barrier reef, stretching gonian fans, soft and hard corals, 260km (161 miles) along the North- sharks, barracudas, and reef fish. See west Cape halfway up Western Aus- “The Capricorn Coast & the South- tralia. Coral starts right on shore, not ern Reef Islands” in chapter 7. 90 minutes out to sea as at the Great • Rottnest Island (WA): Just 19km Barrier Reef. You can snorkel or dive (12 miles) off Perth, this former with manta rays, and dive to see prison island has excellent snorkeling sharks, angelfish, turtles, eels, grouper, and more than 100 dive sites. potato cod, and much more. Snorkel Wrecks, limestone overhangs, and with whale sharks up to 18m (59 ft.) myriad fish will keep divers enter- long from March to early June. See tained. There are no cars, so snorkel- “The Midwest & the Northwest: ers should rent a bike and snorkel Where the Outback Meets the Sea” in gear, buy a visitor-center map of chapter 10.

7 The Best Places to Bushwalk (Hike) • Blue Mountains (NSW): Many rainforest, marvel at mossy 2,000- bushwalks in the Blue Mountains year-old Antarctic beech trees, delight National Park offer awesome views of in the prolific wallabies and birds, valleys, waterfalls, cliffs, and forest. and soak up the cool mountain air. All are easy to reach from Sydney. See See “The Gold Coast Hinterland: “The Blue Mountains” in chapter 5. Back to Nature” in chapter 7. • Whitsunday Islands (QLD): Most • Larapinta Trail (The Red Centre, people think of snorkeling and water- NT): You can start from Alice sports when they come to these sub- Springs and walk the entire 250km tropical national-park islands clad in (155-mile) semidesert trail, which dense rainforest and bush, but every winds through the stark crimson resort island we recommend has hik- McDonnell Ranges. You don’t have ing trails. Some are flat, some hilly. to walk the entire length—plenty of Wallabies and butterflies are common day-length and multiday sections are sights. South Molle has the best net- possible. This one’s for the cooler work of trails and 360-degree island months only (Apr–Oct). See “Alice views from its peak. See “The Whit- Springs” in chapter 8. sunday Coast & Islands” in chapter 7. • Kakadu National Park (NT): • Lamington National Park (QLD): Whether a wetlands stroll or an Few other national parks in Australia overnight hike in virgin bushland, have such a well-marked network of you can find it in this World Her- trails (160km/99 miles in all) as this itage–listed park. You’ll see red cliffs, one, just 90 minutes from the Gold cycads, waterfalls, lily-filled lagoons Coast. Revel in dense subtropical hiding man-eating crocodiles, what 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA sometimes looks like Australia’s entire • Cradle Mountain & Lake St. Clair bird population, and Aboriginal rock National Park (TAS): The 80km art. See “Kakadu National Park” in (50-mile) Overland Track is the best chapter 9. hike in Australia. The trek, from Cra- • Cape-to-Cape (WA): Rugged sea dle Mountain to Lake St. Clair, takes cliffs, a china-blue sea, eucalyptus 5 to 10 days, depending on your fit- forest, white beaches, and coastal ness level. Shorter walks, some lasting heath are what you will find as you just half an hour, are also accessible. hike between Cape Naturaliste and See “Cradle Mountain & Lake St. Cape Leeuwin, in the southwest cor- Clair National Park” in chapter 15. ner of Western Australia. In season, • The Great Ocean Walk (VIC): This you’ll see whales and wildflowers. See is a newly opened 91km (56-mile) “Margaret River & the Southwest: trail from Apollo Bay to Glenample Wine Tasting in the Forests” in chap- Homestead (near the Twelve Apostles) ter 10. on Victoria’s Great Ocean Road. The • Freycinet National Park (TAS): The trail is designed so walkers can “step trek to Wine Glass Bay passes pink- on–step off” at a number of places, granite outcrops, with views over completing short walks of around 2 an ocean sliced by a crescent of icy hours, or day or overnight hikes. And sand. It’s prehistorically beautiful. the views are to die for. See “Great See “Freycinet National Park” in chap- Ocean Walk” in chapter 13. ter 15.

8 The Best Places to Learn about Aboriginal Culture • Umbarra Aboriginal Cultural Cen- of this Aborigine-owned center in tre (Wallaga Lake, near Narooma, Alice Springs. Be sure to hang around NSW): This center offers boomerang- for the 1-hour didgeridoo lesson at and spear-throwing instruction, paint- the end. See p. 385. ing with natural ochers, discussions on • Anangu Tours (Ayers Rock, NT): Aboriginal culture, and guided walk- The Anangu are the owners of Ayers ing tours of Aboriginal sacred sites. See Rock or, in their native tongue, p. 228. Uluru. Join them for walks around • Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park the Rock as you learn about the poi- (Cairns, QLD): This multimillion- sonous “snake men” who fought bat- dollar center showcases the history of tles here, pick bush food off the trees, the Tjapukai people—their Dream- throw spears, visit rock paintings, and time creation history and their often- watch the sun set over the monolith. harrowing experiences since the white Their Cultural Centre near the base of man arrived—using a film, superb the Rock has displays about the Abo- theatrical work, and a dance perform- riginal Dreamtime. See “Uluru–Kata ance. Its Aboriginal art and crafts gift Tjuta National Park (Ayers Rock/The shop is one of the country’s best. See Olgas)” in chapter 8. p. 287. • Manyallaluk: The Dreaming Place • Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre (Katherine, NT): This Aboriginal (Alice Springs, NT): You’ll taste bush community welcomes visitors and food, see a dance, throw boomerangs teaches them to paint, weave, throw and spears, and learn about Aborigi- boomerangs, and perform other tasks nal family values in one half-day tour of daily life. A low-key day and the 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 17

THE BEST OF SMALL-TOWN AUSTRALIA 17 chance to chat one-on-one with Abo- Aboriginal way in the bush, takes you riginal people in their bush home. out to track emus, forage for bush See “Katherine” in chapter 9. food, and maybe even hunt a ’roo for • Mangarrayi People (Katherine, dinner (with a gun, not a boomerang!). NT): Mike Keighley of Far Out Explore the bush, learn about Aborigi- Adventures (& 0427/152 288; www. nal Dreamtime creation myths, and farout.com.au) takes tours to beauti- find out more about his childhood. See ful Elsey Station (a ranch) near “The Goldfields” in chapter 10. Katherine, where you visit with the • Tandanya Aboriginal Cultural children of the local Mangarrayi peo- Institute (Adelaide, SA): This is a ple. Sample bush tucker, learn a little great place to experience life through bush medicine, and swim in a natural Aboriginal eyes. You might catch one “spa-pool” in the Roper River. See of the dances or other performances, “Katherine” in chapter 9. and you’ll have plenty of other • Yamatji Bitja Aboriginal Bush opportunities to find out more about Tours (Kalgoorlie, WA): Geoffrey Aboriginal culture. See p. 516. Stokes (& 08/9021 5862 or 0407/ 378 602), brought up the traditional

9 The Best of Small-Town Australia • Central Tilba (NSW): Just inland village in tropical north Queensland? from Narooma on the south coast, Come to Port Douglas and find out. this historic hamlet is one of the A strip of groovy restaurants and a cutest you’ll see, complete with black- championship golf course have not smiths and leatherwork outlets. The diminished “Port’s” old-fashioned air. ABC Cheese Factory offers free tast- Four Mile Beach is at the end of the ings, and you can spend hours brows- street, and boats depart daily for the ing antiques stalls or admiring the Great Barrier Reef. See “Port Dou- period buildings. See “South of Syd- glas, Daintree & the Cape Tribula- ney along the Princes Highway” in tion Area” in chapter 7. chapter 5. • Mission Beach (QLD): You’d never • Broken Hill (NSW): Known for its know this tidy village existed (it’s hid- silver mines, the quirky town of Bro- den in lush rainforest off the highway) ken Hill has more pubs per capita if you weren’t well informed. Aussies than just about anywhere else. It’s the know it’s here, but few bother to home of the School of the Air—a patronize its dazzling beach, offshore “classroom” that transmits lessons by islands, and rainforest trails, so you’ll radio to communities spread over have the place to yourself. There’s great thousands of miles of Outback. Here white-water rafting on the nearby you’ll also find the Palace Hotel, Tully River, too. See “The North made famous in The Adventures of Coast: Mission Beach, Townsville & Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, as well the Islands” in chapter 7. as plenty of colonial mansions and • Broome (WA): This romantic pearling heritage homes. See “Outback New port on the far-flung Kimberley coast South Wales” in chapter 5. on the Indian Ocean blends Aussie • Port Douglas (QLD): What happens corrugated-iron architecture with red when Sydneysiders and Melbourni- pagoda roofs left by Chinese pearl ans discover a one-street fishing divers. The town fuses a sophisticated 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA international ambience with Outback delicious German food at the local attitude. Play on Cable Beach (see cafes, restaurants, and bakeries. See “The Best Beaches,” earlier in this “Side Trips from Adelaide” in chap- chapter) and stay at glamorous Cable ter 11. Beach Club Resort. This is the place • Coober Pedy (SA): For an Outback to add to your South Sea pearl collec- experience that’s fair-dinkum (gen- tion. See “The Kimberley: A Far- uine), few places are as weird and Flung Wilderness” in chapter 10. wonderful as this opal-mining town • Kalgoorlie (WA): This is it, the in the middle of nowhere. Visit iconic Australian country town. mines, see wacky museums, and stay Vibrant Kalgoorlie sits on what used in a hotel underground—not all that to be the richest square mile of gold- unusual, considering that the locals bearing earth ever. It still pumps live like moles anyway. See “Outback around 2,000 ounces a day out of the South Australia” in chapter 11. ground. Have a beer in one of the • Launceston (TAS): Tasmania’s sec- gracious 19th-century pubs, peer into ond city is not much larger than your the world’s biggest open-cut gold average European or American small mine, and wander the ghost-town town, but it’s packed with Victorian streets of its sister town, Coolgardie. and Georgian architecture and rem- See “The Goldfields” in chapter 10. nants of Australia’s convict past. • Hahndorf (SA): A group of Lutheran Spend a few days and discover the settlers founded this German-style scenery; splurge a little on a stay in a town in the Adelaide Hills in the historic hotel. See “Launceston” in 1830s. You’ll love the churches, the chapter 15. wool factory and crafts shops, and the

10 The Best Museums • Australian National Maritime • Australian Aviation Heritage Cen- Museum (Sydney, NSW): The best tre (Darwin, NT): The pride of this things about this museum are the hangar is a B-52 bomber on perma- ships and submarines often docked in nent loan from the U.S. But there’s the harbor out front. You can climb loads more, and not just planes, aboard and experience what it’s like to engines, and other aviation parapher- be a sailor. Inside are some fascinating nalia—there are stories, jokes, and displays relating to Australia’s depend- anecdotes associated with the exhibits ence on the oceans. See p. 157. that will appeal even if you don’t have • Alice Springs Telegraph Station avgas (aviation fuel) running in your Historical Reserve (NT): It’s not veins. See “Darwin” in chapter 9. called a museum, but that’s what this • Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural restored telegraph-repeater station Centre (NT): “Memorable and mov- out in the picturesque hills by a ing” were the words used by one spring—Alice Springs—really is. reader to describe her visit to this From the hot biscuits turned out of small, stylish museum in Kakadu the wood-fired oven to the old tele- National Park. Learn about Dream- graph equipment, this 1870s settle- time myths and daily life of Aborigi- ment is as real as history can get. See nal people in Kakadu. See “Kakadu p. 386. National Park” in chapter 9. 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 19

THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS 19 • Western Australian Maritime Mu- insight into the people who came to seum and the adjacent Shipwreck Australia, how and where they set- Galleries (Perth, WA): Housed in the tled, and how many suffered getting historic port precinct of Fremantle, here. Don’t expect a lot of musty dis- Perth, this museum tells tales of the plays—this museum is full of hands- harsh Western Australian coastline on activities. See p. 515. since the Dutch first bumped into • Australian War Memorial (Can- it and abandoned it as useless in the berra, ACT): Given its name, you 1600s. Anyone who ever dreamed might think this museum is a bleak of finding a shipwreck laden with place, but you’d be wrong. It gives pieces of eight will relish the displays important insight into the Anzac of treasure recovered from the deep. (Australian and New Zealand Army See p. 457. Corps) spirit, including an exhibit on • New Norcia Museum and Art the tragic battle of Gallipoli. There’s Gallery (New Norcia, WA): This tiny also a pretty good art collection. See museum in the Spanish Benedictine p. 625. monastery town of New Norcia holds • National Museum of Australia a mind-boggling collection of Euro- (ACT): Using state-of-the-art tech- pean Renaissance art. The museum nology and hands-on exhibits, Aus- has all kinds of memorabilia: the tralia’s newest and most impressive monks’ manuscripts, clothing, instru- museum concentrates on Australian ments, and gifts from Queen Isabella society and its history since 1788, the of Spain. See “Side Trips from Perth” interaction of people with the Aus- in chapter 10. tralian environment, and Aboriginal • The Migration Museum (Adelaide, and Torres Strait Islander cultures SA): This museum gives visitors and histories. See p. 626.

11 The Best Luxury Accommodations • Park Hyatt Sydney (NSW; & 800/ minute to finish their gin-and-tonics 633-7313 in the U.S. and Canada, or in the Brigadier Bar. Idyllic Palm 02/9241 1234 in Australia): You’ll Cove Beach is just across the road. have to book well in advance to snag See p. 297. a room at Sydney’s best-situated prop- • Lizard Island (off Cairns, QLD; erty, at the edge of the city’s historic & 1300/134 044 in Australia, or Rocks district. Many rooms have fab- 02/8296 8010): Lizard Island has ulous views across the harbor to the long been popular with Americans Sydney Opera House. See p. 120. for its game fishing, wonderful coral • The Sebel Reef House & Spa Palm and diving, smart food, and simple Cove (Cairns, QLD; & 1800/079 upscale lodge accommodations. See 052 in Australia, or 07/4055 3633): p. 299. Everyone who stays here says the • Bedarra Island (off Mission Beach, same thing: “It feels like home.” Airy QLD; & 1300/134 044 in Australia, rooms look into tropical gardens, or 02/8296 8010): Presidents and waterfalls cascade into the pools, princesses in need of a little time out mosquito nets drape over the beds, come to this small rainforest island and you could swear pith-helmeted ringed by beaches. The timber villas colonial officers will be back any are cozy, and the discreet staff assures 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 20

20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA privacy. Best of all, though, is the U.K., 0800/44 4422 in New Zealand, extravagant 24-hour open bar. See or 08/9169 1777): Charming country p. 319. decor spiced up with Indonesian • Orpheus Island Resort (off Towns- antiques, good cooking, and a dra- ville or Cairns, QLD; & 07/4777 matic gorge location make this glam- 7377 in Australia): Beloved of film orous homestead on a million-acre stars and others who relish privacy, cattle station popular with jet-setters. this resort has simple, attractive Cruise wild gorges, heli-fish for barra- rooms; good food; a marvelous sense mundi, and hike to Aboriginal rock of seclusion; and a beautiful location art while you’re here. See p. 491. in the curve of a palm-lined bay. The • Cable Beach Club Resort Broome only way in is by seaplane. See p. 326. (Broome, WA; & 1800/099 199 • Hayman (Whitsunday Islands, QLD; in Australia, or 08/9192 0400): Chi- & 1800/075 175 in Australia, or natown meets the Outback at this Leading Hotels of the World, elegant corrugated-iron-and-pagoda- 800/745-8883 in the U.S. and studded resort lying low along glori- Canada, 0800/1010-1111 in the ous Cable Beach in the romantic U.K. and Ireland, or 0800/44 1016 pearling port of Broome. Three in New Zealand): On Hayman Island to-die-for suites are decorated with in the Whitsundays, this is Australia’s superb Asian antiques and paintings most glamorous resort. It has classy by luminaries of the Australian art rooms, excellent restaurants, a staff world. See p. 497. that’s keen to please, a superb hexag- • The Como Melbourne (Melbourne, onal swimming pool, and a fleet of VIC; & 1800/033 400 in Australia, charter boats waiting to spirit you off or 03/9825 2222): Great service, nice to the Reef or your own deserted isle. rooms, and free plastic ducks make See p. 338. this one of our favorite top-flight • Longitude 131 (Uluru/Ayers Rock, Australian hotels. See p. 560. Red Centre, NT; & 08/8957 7888): • Hyatt Hotel Canberra (Canberra, A newcomer to the Ayers Rock resort ACT; & 800/233-1234 in the U.S. scene, Longitude 131 is an African- and Canada, or 02/6270 1234): Vis- style luxury safari camp set in the iting heads of state and pop stars sand dunes, with great views of Uluru make this their residence when stay- (Ayers Rock). It’s very exclusive and ing in Canberra. It’s a 2-minute drive very expensive, but you experience from the central shopping district, the Outback in style. See p. 405. and a stone’s throw from Lake Burley • El Questro Homestead (The Kim- Griffin and the Parliamentary Trian- berley, WA; & 1300/656 565 in gle. See p. 620. Australia, 800/221-4542 in the U.S. and Canada, 020/8283 4500 in the

12 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • Explorers Inn Hotel (& 1800/ QLD: These two hotels around the 623 288 in Australia, or 07/3211 corner from each other are shining 3488) and Hotel George Williams examples of what affordable hotels (& 1800/064 858 in Australia, or should be—trendy, clean, and bright, 07/3308 0700), both in Brisbane, with useful facilities like a 24-hour 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 21

THE BEST ALTERNATIVE ACCOMMODATIONS 21 front desk, hair dryers, helpful staff, major redecoration job. You’re right and a pleasant, inexpensive restaurant in the heart of Perth, and the friendly attached. See p. 250. staff and huge buffet breakfasts • The Reef Retreat (Cairns, QLD; (included in the room rate) complete & 07/4059 1744): It’s not often you the picture. See p. 446. find so much decorating taste— • North Adelaide Heritage Group wooden blinds, teak furniture, and (Adelaide, SA; & 08/8272 1355): colorful upholstery—at a price you These accommodations consist of 18 want to pay, but that’s what you get at fabulous properties in North Ade- the apartments in trendy Palm Cove, laide and Eastwood. The former one of Cairns’s most desirable beach- Friendly Meeting Chapel Hall resem- front suburbs. There’s a pool on the bles a small church stocked with Vic- lovely landscaped grounds, but the torian antiques. Another memorable beach is just a block away. See p. 298. place is the George Lowe Esq. Apart- • Archipelago Studio Apartments ment, done in the style of a 19th-cen- (Port Douglas, QLD; & 07/4099 tury gentleman’s bachelor pad. See 5387): They may be tiny, but these p. 511. pretty apartments have a homey • York Mansions (Launceston, TAS; atmosphere and are seconds from & 03/6334 2933): If you feel that Four Mile Beach. Some units have sea where you stay is as important to views. The solicitous proprietor is a your visit as what you see, then don’t font of advice on things to see and miss on a night or two here. This do. See p. 309. National Trust–classified building has • Miss Maud Swedish Hotel (Perth, five spacious apartments, each with a WA; & 1800/998 022 in Australia): distinct character. It’s like living the Staying here is like staying at high life in the Victorian age. See Grandma’s—just as she’s finished a p. 653.

13 The Best Alternative Accommodations • Underground Motel (White Cliffs, yacht. Considering you’ll only shell NSW; & 1800/021 154 in Australia, out for wine and maybe a seaplane or 08/8091 6677): All but two of this trip to the Reef, this is a great value motel’s rooms are underground. for its exclusivity. See p. 339. Rooms are reached by a maze of spa- • Kingfisher Bay Resort (Fraser cious tunnels dug out of the rock Island, QLD; & 1800/072 555 in beneath this opal-mining town. See Australia, or 07/4120 3333): If it p. 236. weren’t for the ranger station and nat- • South Long Island Nature Lodge ural-history videos in the lobby, the (The Whitsunday Islands, QLD; wildlife walks, the guided four-wheel- & 07/4946 9777): You’ll be one of drive safaris, and the other ecoactivi- only a maximum of 14 guests staying ties, you’d hardly know that this in the 10 comfy and recently refur- comfortable, modern hotel is an bished beachfront cabins at this ecoresort. See p. 354. island ecoretreat. Sea kayak, snorkel, • Binna Burra Mountain Lodge swim, hike rainforest trails, dine with (& 1800/074 260 in Australia, or other guests outside under the Milky 07/5533 3622) & O’Reilly’s Rain- Way, and take sailing trips—every forest Guesthouse (& 1800/688 day if you like—on the lodge’s own 722 in Australia, or 07/5502 4911), 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 22

22 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA both in the Gold Coast Hinterland, tin-roofed, stone-walled Outback QLD: Tucked almost 1,000m (3,280 pub in the Flinders Ranges has quaint ft.) up on rainforested ridges, these rooms, a great bar out front where cozy retreats offer fresh mountain air, you can meet the locals, and some of activities, and instant access to the the best food in Australia. See p. 539. hiking trails of Lamington National • Freycinet Lodge (Freycinet National Park. At O’Reilly’s you can hand-feed Park, Coles Bay, TAS; & 03/6257 brilliantly colored rainforest birds 0101): These ecofriendly bush cabins every morning. See p. 376–377. are right next to one of the nation’s • Emma Gorge Resort (The Kimber- best walking trails. The ocean views ley, WA; & 800/221-4542 in the from the magnificent restaurant and U.S. and Canada, or 08/9169 1777): the surrounding balconies are spec- At this spick-and-span little safari tacular. See p. 649. camp on the 400,000-hectare (1-mil- • Cradle Mountain Lodge (Cradle lion-acre) El Questro cattle station, Mountain, TAS; & 13 24 69 in Aus- guests stay in cute tents with wooden tralia, or 03/6492 1303): Just min- floors and electric lights, eat at a rus- utes from your comfortable cabin are tic gourmet restaurant, and join in 1,500-year-old trees, moss forests, the many hikes, bird-watching tours, craggy mountain ridges, limpid pools river cruises, and more. See p. 491. and lakes, and hordes of scampering • Prairie Hotel (Flinders Ranges, SA; marsupials. See p. 656. & 08/8648 4844): This remarkable

14 The Best Bed & Breakfasts & Guesthouses • The Russell (The Rocks, Sydney; • Ulladulla Guest House (Ulladulla, & 02/9241 3543): This B&B, won- NSW; & 02/4455 1796): Works of derfully positioned in the city’s old art on the walls, fabulous food, and a quarter, is the coziest place to stay in lagoonlike pool among the palm Sydney. It has creaky floorboards, a trees—all this and lovely rooms, with ramshackle feel, brightly painted cor- hosts who can’t do enough for you. ridors, and rooms with immense See p. 226. character. See p. 122. • Waverley (Brisbane, QLD; & 07/ • Echoes Hotel & Restaurant, Blue 3369 8973): This gorgeous old tim- Mountains (Katoomba, NSW; & 02/ ber Queenslander house has pretty 4782 1966): Echoes is right on the rooms and a cool deck within earshot edge of a dramatic drop into the Jami- of rainbow lorikeets chirping in the son Valley. The views from the bal- mango trees. And the cute shops and conies are breathtaking. See p. 196. galleries of fashionable Paddington • Barrington Guest House (Barring- are right outside your door. See ton Tops National Park, The Hunter, p. 250. NSW; & 02/4995 3212): Nestled in • Lilybank Bed & Breakfast (Cairns, a valley just outside the Barrington QLD; & 07/4055 1123): This ram- Tops National Park, this charming bling 1890s homestead used to be the guesthouse and luxury cabin property Cairns mayor’s residence. Today, offers magnificent rainforest walks, owners Pat and Mike Woolford wel- plenty of native animals, and excel- come guests to its comfy rooms, wide lent activities, such as horseback rid- verandas, and blooming gardens. You ing through the bush. See p. 208. 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 23

THE BEST RESTAURANTS 23 can also stay in the renovated gar- • Heritage Trail Lodge (Margaret dener’s cottage. See p. 296. River, WA; & 08/9757 9595): How • Marae (near Port Douglas, QLD; many B&Bs do you know that pro- & 07/4098 4900): Lush bushland vide a double Jacuzzi in every room? full of butterflies and birds is the set- These salmon-pink cabins abut tall ting for this gorgeous contemporary karri forest where parrots flit. ‘Roos Queenslander house with hip rooms hop into the parking lot on occasion, and an outdoor plunge pool. Owners and the fabulous Margaret River John and Pam Burden promise a wineries surround you. See p. 473. warm welcome and a wonderful • Collingrove Homestead (Angaston, breakfast. See p. 310. the Barossa Valley, SA; & 08/8564 • Hansons Swan Valley (near Perth, 2061): This country house, built in WA; & 08/9296 3366): Goodbye 1856, has an air of colonial manor faded lace, hello Art Deco—here is a farm living, with hunting trophies, B&B with cutting-edge style for rifles, and oil paintings festooning the young sophisticates. Jon and Selina walls, and plenty of oak paneling and Hanson have created a stylish retreat antiques scattered about. See p. 523. nestled among the Swan Valley vine- yards, an easy drive from Perth. See p. 465.

15 The Best Restaurants • Rockpool (Sydney, NSW; & 02/ are imaginative enough to guarantee 9252 1888): With the chefs on view that this hip eatery is a constant num- and designer chairs to sit on, Rock- ber one in Australia. See p. 143. pool is a consistent favorite, not least • e’cco bistro (Brisbane, QLD; & 07/ for its fabulous, inventive food. See 3831 8344): Simple food, elegantly p. 139. done, has won this small but elegant • Mezzaluna (Sydney, NSW; & 02/ bistro a stack of awards, and you’ll 9357 1988): Come here for exquisite soon see why. Not least among its food, flawless service, and a great titles is Australia’s top restaurant view across the city’s western skyline. award, the Remy Martin Cognac/ The main dining room opens onto an Gourmet Traveller Restaurant of the all-weather terrace kept warm in win- Year. Booking ahead is essential. See ter by giant, overhead fan heaters. p. 251. Don’t miss it. See p. 145. • Fishlips Bar & Bistro (Cairns, • Quay (Sydney, NSW; & 02/9251 QLD; & 07/4041 1700): Clever 5600): Sydney’s best seafood restau- ways with fresh seafood and other rant offers perhaps the loveliest view Aussie ingredients—think croco- in town. Gaze through the large win- dile—make this cheerful blue beach dows toward the Opera House, the house a real winner, the pick of the city skyline, the North Shore sub- bunch in Cairns. See p. 300. urbs, and the Harbour Bridge. See • Fraser’s (Perth, WA; & 08/9481 p. 138. 7100): The city center and Swan • Tetsuya’s (Sydney, NSW; & 02/ River sparkling in the sunshine seem 9267 2900): Chef Tetsuya Wakuda is so close that you can almost reach out arguably Sydney’s most famous chef, and touch them from the terrace of and his nouveau Japanese creations this parkland restaurant. Come here 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 24

24 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF AUSTRALIA for sensationally good Modern Aus- soup and a mixed grill of emu tralian food turned out with flair sausages, camel steak, and kangaroo, and flavor; seafood is a specialty. See is remarkable. See p. 539. p. 449. • Flower Drum (Melbourne, VIC; • Newtown House (Vasse, near Mar- & 03/9662 3655): Praise pours in garet River, WA; & 08/9755 4485): for this upscale eatery serving Can- Chef Stephen Reagan makes intelli- tonese food. The food is exquisite gent, flavorsome food that beautifully and the service impeccable. See partners with premium Margaret p. 562. River wines. Stay in his homestead • The Tryst (Canberra, ACT; & 02/ B&B overnight and explore the 6239 4422): Canberra has far wineries the next day. See p. 474. grander and more expensive restau- • Prairie Hotel (Flinders Ranges, SA; rants, but this place has found a spot & 08/8648 4844): Chef Darren in our hearts for its constantly deli- (“Bart”) Brooks serves high-class cui- cious food. It’s also relaxed, feeling sine in the middle of nowhere. His almost communal on busy nights. “feral” food, such as kangaroo tail See p. 624.

16 The Best Reasonably Priced Restaurants • Phillip’s Foote (Sydney, NSW; belie the quality of the Modern Aus- & 02/9241 1485): In the heart of tralian food at this 14th-floor estab- the historic neighborhood known as lishment. The husband-and-wife The Rocks, this barbecue restaurant team of Mark and Eleni Edwards serves fish, meat, and poultry. Pick (he’s the chef) presides over one of your own protein and throw it on the the best restaurants in the country. “barbie” in the courtyard behind a See p. 323. historic pub. See p. 140. • Season (Sunshine Coast, QLD; • Green Papaya (East Brisbane, QLD; & 07/5447 3747): A great location & 07/3217 3599): Owner and chef right on the beach, a chef who made Lien Yeoman offers flavorful North a name for himself in Sydney, and fla- Vietnamese cuisine in a cheerful set- vorful Modern Australian cuisine ting—a simple formula that draws combine to make Season one of the enthusiastic crowds. If you need area’s most popular restaurants. See advice as you contemplate the menu, p. 362. the helpful staff will offer as much • Red Ochre Grill (Alice Springs, NT; guidance as you need. See p. 253. & 08/8950 6666): “Gourmet bush • Salsa Bar & Grill (Port Douglas, tucker” might sound like a contradic- QLD; & 07/4099 4922): The ani- tion, but this restaurant (part of an mated atmosphere and attractive sur- upscale chain) pulls it off. The roundings set the scene for an kitchen combines native ingredients excellent dining experience. Appetiz- and international techniques to ers and main courses run the gamut exceptionally good effect. See p. 393. from simple fare to sophisticated • Hansons (Henley Brook, WA; & 08/ tropical creations; desserts are fantas- 9296 3366): In the wine country just tic. See p. 312. outside Perth, Hansons serves Mod- • Zouí Alto (Townsville, QLD; & 07/ ern Australian dishes indoors and 4721 4700): The reasonable prices outdoors. The elegant restaurant is 05_040769 ch01.qxp 10/27/06 10:24 AM Page 25

THE BEST REASONABLY PRICED RESTAURANTS 25 part of Hansons Swan Valley, a sleek, desserts. The menu relies heavily on contemporary B&B. See p. 466. the catch that comes in on the restau- • Bamboo House (Melbourne, VIC; rant’s own fishing boat. Lower Deck, & 03/9662 1565): A favorite with in the same complex, is a reasonably both local businesspeople and the priced self-service family restaurant. Chinese community, Bamboo House See p. 643. offers superb service as well as excel- • Spirit House (Sunshine Coast, lent Cantonese and northern Chinese QLD; & 07/5446 8994): Winding cuisine. Top choices on the extensive jungle paths lead to tables set around menu include duck in plum sauce, a lagoon, illuminated at night by chicken with shallot sauce, and the torches and discreet lighting. The fla- signature Szechuan smoked duck. See vors from the kitchen are mainly Thai p. 564. but with other Asian influences, and • Mures Upper Deck (Hobart, TAS; there’s nowhere else quite like this in & 03/6231 2121): Views of the Queensland for atmosphere and ter- water make a perfect backdrop for rific food. See p. 363. ultrafresh seafood and scrumptious