Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique Free
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Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide better swing control; the longer axes are good for glacier travel. Technical and mixed, curve- shafted tools fall in the 45-to-55cm range; size there to preference. Ice Gear Shaft. The classic mountain tool has a straight shaft, for anchor/boot-axe belays or WIth Ice clImbIng, as aid, upward progress allow you to switch out mono and dual front- walking-stick use. For steep ice, curved shafts relies almost directly on gear. Accordingly, ice points, too. offer better swing ‘n’ stick, knuckle protection, gear is highly specialized and typically falls bindings. The basic styles are strap-on, and clearance over bulges. into one of three categories: mountain use/ hybrid, and step-in. For mountain travel, strap- grip. A straight tool sans rubber grip is prefer- AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO glacier travel, waterfall- and pure-ice climbing, ons typically suffice and work with all boots; able for mountain use, where you’ll be posthol- With all the super-specialized ice or mixed climbing/dry tooling. hybrids require a sturdier boot with a heel ing through snow. For technical ice and mixed tools these days, it’s unusual to find welt; and step-ins fit stiffer boots with both use, a molded-rubber grip delivers purchase one so multipurpose — the Austri- Crampons heel and toe welts. and insulation against the shaft. Technical ice There are crampons for all types of climb- tools typically have pinky catches, for even Alpin (austrialpin.net) HU.go ing, from getting purchase on slick slopes to Ice Tools better grip. For hardcore ice and mixed, the Gear breaks the mold with a vari- inverted heel hooking. -
White Mountain National Forest Pemigewasset Ranger District November 2015
RUMNEY ROCKS CLIMBING MANAGEMENT PLAN White Mountain National Forest Pemigewasset Ranger District November 2015 Introduction The Rumney Rocks Climbing Area encompasses approximately 150 acres on the south-facing slopes of Rattlesnake Mountain on the White Mountain National Forest (WMNF) in Rumney, New Hampshire. Scattered across these slopes are approximately 28 rock faces known by the climbing community as "crags." Rumney Rocks is a nationally renowned sport climbing area with a long and rich climbing history dating back to the 1960s. This unique area provides climbing opportunities for those new to the sport as well as for some of the best sport climbers in the country. The consistent and substantial involvement of the climbing community in protection and management of this area is a testament to the value and importance of Rumney Rocks. This area has seen a dramatic increase in use in the last twenty years; there were 48 published climbing routes at Rumney Rocks in Ed Webster's 1987 guidebook Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and are over 480 documented routes today. In 2014 an estimated 646 routes, 230 boulder problems and numerous ice routes have been documented at Rumney. The White Mountain National Forest Management Plan states that when climbing issues are "no longer effectively addressed" by application of Forest Plan standards and guidelines, "site specific climbing management plans should be developed." To address the issues and concerns regarding increased use in this area, the Forest Service developed the Rumney Rocks Climbing Management Plan (CMP) in 2008. Not only was this the first CMP on the White Mountain National Forest, it was the first standalone CMP for the US Forest Service. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
Ouray Ice Climbing Programs 2021 International Mountain Guides
Ouray Ice Climbing Programs 2021 International Mountain Guides The town of Ouray, located in heart of the San Juan Range of southwestern Colorado, is home to the Ouray Ice Park and is one of the best venues to learn and hone water-ice climbing techniques. Easy access to the Ice Park is only half of it—the local backcountry ice climbs offer a different challenge for those ready to test their skills on naturally formed ice. Enjoy a relaxed town, good restaurants, and natural hot-springs; a winter visit to climb in Ouray has become an annual habit for many. These programs are an excellent choice for those gearing up Ouray: Just The Facts for an expedition or subsequent climb that requires confident cramponing in icy conditions. Focusing on the balance and The Town: technique necessary for climbing steep water ice gives Ouray, Colorado, elevation 7,760', climbers a significant advantage in their technical ability. population 700, 9 blocks long, 6 blocks wide, mostly built in the 1800's, designated a National Historic District, A typical climbing day will start with breakfast at your hotel and and is in the Uncompahgre Gorge of the San Juan Mountains a morning meeting with your guide. Access to the Ice Park is right at the edge of town, a pleasant hike along the top of the The Park: box canyon. The Park is nearly a mile in length from the first Most climbing is within walking distance of town, and the park which is just over climb to the last (there are about 150 named climbs in the 3/4 miles long is divided into three Park formed over the edge of the canyon). -
2010 Metolius Climbing 2
2010 METOLIUS CLIMBING 2 It’s shocking to think that it’s been twenty-five years since we cranked up the Metolius Climbing machine, and 2010 marks our 25th consecutive year in business! Wow! Getting our start in Doug Phillips’ tiny garage near the headwaters of the Metolius River (from where we take our name), none of us could have envisioned where climbing would be in 25 years or that we would even still be in the business of making climbing gear. In the 1980s, the choices one had for climbing equipment were fairly limited & much of the gear then was un-tested, uncomfortable, inadequate or unavailable. Many solved this problem by making their own equipment, the Metolius crew included. 3 (1) Smith Rock, Oregon ~ 1985 Mad cranker Kim Carrigan seen here making Much has changed in the last 2 ½ decades since we rolled out our first products. The expansion we’ve seen has been mind-blowing the 2nd ascent of Latest Rage. Joined by fellow Aussie Geoff Wiegand & the British hardman Jonny Woodward, this was one of the first international crews to arrive at Smith and tear the and what a journey it’s been. The climbing life is so full of rich and rewarding experiences that it really becomes the perfect place up. The lads made many early repeats in the dihedrals that year. These were the days metaphor for life, with its triumphs and tragedies, hard-fought battles, whether won or lost, and continuous learning and growing. when 5.12 was considered cutting edge and many of these routes were projected and a few of Over time, we’ve come to figure out what our mission is and how we fit into the big picture. -
2016 Annual Mountaineering Summary
2016 Annual Mountaineering Summary Photo courlesy of Menno Boermans 2016 Statistical Year in Review Each season's !!!~~D.~~.iD.~.~- ~!~~ . !:~':!.!~ . ~!~!!~!!~~ · including total attempts and total summits for Denali and Foraker, are now compiled into one spreadsheet spanning from 1979 to 2016. For a more detailed look at 2016, you can find the day to-day statistics, weather, and conditions reports discussed in the !?.~.':1.~.1.i __ g!~P.~!~~~~ blog. Quick Facts-Denali • Climbers from the USA: 677 (60% of total) Top states represented were Alaska (122), Washington (103), Colorado (95), and California (64) • International climbers: 449 (40% of total) Foreign countries with the most climbers were the United Kingdom (52) Japan (39), France (28). In a three-way tie for fouth position were the Czech Republic, Korea, and Poland, each with 23 climbers. Nepal was close behind with 22. Of the less-represented countries, we welcomed just one climber each from Montenegro, Iceland, Mongolia, and Croatia. • Average trip length Overall average was 16.5 days, start to finish. • Average age 39 years old • Women climbers Comprised 12% of total (132 women). The summit rate for women was 59%. • Summits by month • May: 112 • June:514 • July: 44 • Busiest Summit Days • June 16: 83 summits • June 23: 71 summits • June 1: 66 summits • May 31: 35 summits 2016 Search and Rescue Summary Avalanche Hazard A winter climber departed Talkeetna on January 21, 2016 for a planned 65-day solo expedition on the West Ridge of Mount Hunter. On April 3 (Day 72 of the expedition), the uninjured soloist was evacuated from 8,600 feet via short-haul rescue basket after becoming stranded with inadequate food and fuel due to persistent avalanche conditions. -
Climbing Wall Facilities Position Statement for the Period 2015-21
The Mountaineering Council of Scotland Climbing Wall Facilities 2015-2021 POSITION STATEMENT AMENDED VERSION 05.16 0 The Mountaineering Council of Scotland Climbing Wall Facilities Position Statement [2015-2021] Approved by the MCofS Board, 18 September 2014 CONTENTS Section Page 1. Executive Summary 2 1.1. Purpose and Background 2 1.2. Aims 2 1.3. Scope 3 1.4. Wall Development Summary 3 1.5. List of Appendices 3 1.6. Appendix: Climbing Wall Facility Position Statement Summary 4 2. Introduction 5 3. Key Aims 5 4. Player Pathways 5 5. Key Drivers for Facility Development 6 6. Desired Outcomes 7 7. Facility Development and Delivery 8 8. Facility Requirements 8 9. Scale of Facility 9 9.1. Boulder Parks 9 9.2. School Walls 10 9.3. Small Walls 10 9.4. Regional Hubs 10 9.5. Regional Hubs Designation 11 9.6. The National Performance Centre 13 9.7. The International Climbing Centre 13 9.8. The National Outdoor Training Centre 14 10. Improving Facility Provision 15 11. Conclusions and Recommendations 16 Appendices A: Player Pathway [Climber to Mountaineer - Recreational] 17 B: Player Pathway [Youth Climbing & Facility Requirements] 18 C: Player Pathway [Youth Starter Climber to Elite] 19 D: Climbing Walls Position Statement: Specifications 20 E: Climbing Walls Position Statement: 2014 Facility Review (see update Strategy) F: Climbing Walls Position Statement: Regional Hub Designation Assessment Criteria 27 1 1. Executive Summary 1.1. Purpose and Background This position statement describes how MCofS will seek to influence the development of an integrated framework of facilities for sport climbing across Scotland, which will meet MCofS aims for both sport development and the ClimbScotland club development initiative over the period 2015-2021. -
Waypoint Namibia
Majka enjoys a perfect crack on Southern Crossing. Big wall Waypoint Namibia What makes a climb impassable? I’m 215-meters up a first ascent of a granite crack climb in the heart of Namibia, and all I have to hold onto is a bush. Lots of bushes. Trees, too. In order to get where I’m going - the summit - I need what’s behind the bushes, the thing these bushes are choking, the thing that I have travelled 15,400 kilometers by plane, truck, and foot for: a perfect crack. amibia is not known for its climbing, which is exactly why I wanted to go there. It’s better known as Africa’s newest Nindependent country, the source of the continent’s largest stores of uranium and diamonds, the Namib Desert, the Skeleton Coast, and its tribal peoples. Previously known as Southwest Africa, this former German colony and South African protectorate holds some of the most coveted, and least visited, natural sites in Africa. In the middle of all of these lies Spitzkoppe, a 500-meter granite plug with over eighty established climbs. When I learned about Spitzkoppe in December 2007, I automatically started wondering what else might be possible to climb in Namibia. I pick unlikely climbing destinations because I want to learn what happens on the margins of adventure. War, apartheid, and remoteness have all combined to keep many of Namibia’s vertical landscapes relatively unexplored. When I found an out-of-focus photo of a 1,000-meter granite prow with a mud Himba hut in the foreground, I knew I had found my objective. -
Baffin Big Walls Expedition Report
Baffin Big Walls Expedition Report “Arctic Monkeys” V1 A4 1400m Baffin Island Canada Contents Expedition name and dates……………………………………………………. 2 Expedition members and contact details…………………………………….. 2 Aim of Expedition……………………………………………………………….. 3 Expedition Summary……………………………………………………………. 4 Expedition logistics and trip planning…………………………………………. 5 Further Information……………………………………………………………… 7 The Climb………………………………………………………………………... 8 Expedition Costs………………………………………………………………… 11 Environmental Management…………………………………………………… 12 Future Potential…………………………………………………………………. 12 Day by Day Diary……………………………………………………………….. 13 1 Expedition Report Baffin Big Walls “Arctic Monkeys” Expedition Name: Baffin Big Walls 2010 Expedition Dates: 1st May- 30th May 2010 Time in Field: 25 Days Area of Expedition: Country: Baffin Island, Canada Region: Stewart Valley Nearest Outport Clyde River (population approx 600) Expedition Members and Contact details: Stuart McAleese, UIAGM Mountain Guide 17 Snowdon Street Llanberis Gwynedd North Wales LL55 4HE [email protected] Mike “Twid” Turner, UIAGM Mountain Guide [email protected] Mark Thomas UIAGM Mountain Guide [email protected] I hope this report is useful for other people wishing to visit the area for further climbing and adventures. If you require any further information of our expedition please do not hesitate to contact any of the expedition members. 2 Aim of Expedition The aim was to make the first ascent of an unclimbed peak and wall on the southern side of Stewart Valley, off the North East coast of Baffin Island (Canadian Territories). The climbing anticipated was to be hard free climbing with technical aid climbing. The area we chose to go to has some of the biggest unclimbed walls on the planet. The area is very remote and home to some of the most impressive photogenic and inspiring peaks in the world. -
David's Basics of Big Walling Evening We Will Be Doing Active Teaching
David’s Basics of Big Walling Evening We will be doing active teaching. The idea is that by doing something, rather than just hearing me say it, you stand more chance of remembering it. Do the activities in pairs or triples – one person can read the instructions while the other one does the activity; then swap roles on the next activity. Try to tick off as many of the activities as you can before you leave, but don’t expect to do them all – you can’t learn the whole of the topic in an hour or two. If there is something you don’t understand, ask. Big wall tips. Read these AFTER you have done the activities – they will make more sense then. A copy of this document is on my website: www.multipitchclimbing.com 1. You can’t have too many lockers. Take mainly twist locks. 2. You can’t have too many snap gates. 3. Screwgates don’t stay done up. 4. The belay needs to be clean and readable for speed and safety. 5. Make the lockers you first clip into the bolts on belays large ones. This is because they are likely to end up with other lockers and bits of rope clipped or tied to them. 6. At belays make sure you have two different forms of attachment at all times – normally the rope and one daisy – attached to two different parts of the anchor. The haul bag also needs to be tied in twice. (If you drop the bag it will fall whole length of the haul line and might rip the belay from the wall.) 7. -
International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by UDORA - University of Derby Online Research Archive Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement NICK DRAPER1,2, DAVID GILES1, VOLKER SCHÖFFL3, FRANZ KONSTANTIN FUSS4, PHILLIP B. WATTS5, PETER WOLF6, JIŘÍ BALÁŠ 7, VANESA ESPAÑA ROMERO8, GINA BLUNT GONZALEZ9, SIMON FRYER10, MAURIZIO FANCHINI11, LAURENT VIGOUROUX12, LUDOVIC SEIFERT13, LARS DONATH14, MANUEL SPOERRI15, KELIOS BONETTI16, KEVIN C. PHILLIPS5, URS STÖCKER17, FÉLIX BOURASSA-MOREAU18, INMACULADA GARRIDO19, SCOTT DRUM5, STUART BEEKMEYER20, JEAN-LUC ZILTENER21, NICOLA TAYLOR1, INA BEERETZ22, FRANZISKA MALLY23,4, ARIF MITHAT AMCA24, CAROLINE LINHAT25, EDGARDO AC ABREU26 1Department of Life Sciences, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom, 2School of Sport and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand, 3Dept. of Sportsorthopedics, Sportsmedicine, Klinikum Bamberg, Germany, 4 School of Aerospace, Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia, 5School of Health and Human Performance, Northern Michigan University, Marquette, MI, USA, 6 Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, ETH Zurich, Switzerland, 7Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University in Prague, Czech Republic, 8Department of Physical Education, School of Education, University of Cadiz, Puerto Real, Cadiz, Spain, 9Department of Health, Wellness, and Human Performance, Morehead State University, Morehead, KY, USA, 10University of Gloucestershire, School of Sport and Exercise, Gloucester, United Kingdom, 11Department of Neurological and Movement Sciences, University of Verona, Italy, 12 Aix-Marseille Université, CNRS, ISM UMR 7287, 13288, Marseille Cedex 09, France, 13CETAPS lab., Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France 14Department of Sport, Exercise and Health, University of Basel, Basel, Switzerland, 15Dr. -
2016 Tacoma Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Manual
TACOMA MOUNTAINEERS Intermediate Climbing Manual 2016 Table of Contents Welcome to the Tacoma Mountaineers _______________________________________________________________________ 3 Course Information _______________________________________________________________________________________________ 5 Course Description _________________________________________________________________________________________________ 5 2016 Intermediate Course Roster _______________________________________________________________________________ 7 Course Policies and Requirements _____________________________________________________________________________ 11 General Notes __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Late for Lecture / Absenteeism Policy _______________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Conservation Requirement ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Winter Overnight Requirement ______________________________________________________________________________________________ 11 Basic Climbing Field Trip Teaching Requirement __________________________________________________________________________ 12 Mentor Program ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ 13 Rope Leader, Climb Leader, & Graduation Policies __________________________________________________________ 15 Rope Lead Process ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________