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Mcbrides Boat Safari – Travel Zambia

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Mcbrides Boat Safari – Travel Zambia Vakacha Nkani Vakacha Vakacha 70s, has since relocated to Zambia’s Know Your National Parks SAFARI Kafue National Park. Here, with his wife Charlotte, he runs the rustic McBrides Did you know that Zambia has 19 national parks? Most visitors head for at least one of the ‘big three’ – South Camp in the northeastern section, an NkLuangwa,ani Kafue and Lower Zambezi – while a few smaller parks, such as Kasanka, also receive a regular trickle. Caption here caption Nkani caption here isolated wilderness characterised by its But many others hardly see a visitor from one year to the next. In some cases this is because they are virtually maze of oxbow lakes and vast floodplains. inaccessible, or so badly neglected that little wildlife remains. But there are also many hidden gems awaiting the Now 65, McBride is still obsessed with discerning traveller. lions, and there is a charming – almost Victorian – character to his energetic Blue Lagoon National Park: northern Luambe National Park: small park close Sioma Ngwezi National Park: in eccentricities. Kafue Flats, west of Lusaka; flooded to South Luangwa; long neglected remote far south-west; wide variety of Puttering downstream to a remote Vaduringka thech rains;a excellent bird life; but currently under development and wildlife; no facilities but currently under fly camp close to the ‘golden’ pride’s one lodge. wildlife returning; one lodge. development. territory, we pass sluggish crocodiles Isangano National Park: east of the Lukusuzi National Park: east of Luangwa South Luangwa National Park: eastern basking benignly on the sandbanks Bangweulu Swamps; no facilities, Valley near Malawi border; no facilities Zambia; nation’s premier park, with beneath the warming sun. Fly camping little wildlife. but great potential. superb game viewing, especially in Zambia is wild and intimate and the Kafue National Park: western Zambia; Lusenga Plain National Park: east walking safaris; numerous lodges Fish Eagle delivers us right into the raw country’sNkan largesti park, and divided of Lake Mweru, no facilities and West Lunga National Park: in northwest; heart of the bush. The only concession into north and south sections; little wildlife. neglected, with no facilities or to civilisation here is a long-drop loo and exceptionally wide variety of habitats Mosi–oa–Tunya (Victoria Falls) easy access, but good potential for a bucket shower, and the local wildlife and wildlife; many lodges, but less National Park: small park on the edge of redevelopment. rarely encounters humans. Bushwalking developed than South Luangwa. Livingstone (plentiful accommodation); through the crackling miombo woodland Kasanka National Park: small park includes a small ‘safari park’. National Park or GMA? Downstream with the lion man and open savannah soon lulls you into south of the Bangweulu Swamps: Mweru Wantipa National Park: on National parks are administered by the nature’s own rhythm. At night, under birdlife, bats and sitatunga; one lodge. the shores of lake Mweru in far north; Looking for something different on safari? Philip Dickson ventures out on Zambia Wildlife Authority. Most are the colossal black vacuum of a moonless Lavushi Manda National Park: east of neglected, with no facilities and little the Kafue River with Chris McBride, Africa’s legendary ‘white lion’ man. surrounded by large Game Management sky with only a campfire for solace, deep the Bangweulu Swamps; no facilities; wildlife, but great potential. Areas (GMAs), which contain local As the cool early morning haze hangs half-submerged hippo carcass, surfacing chest-heaving lion roars both terrify and hilly and wooded terrain; wildlife North Luangwa National Park: remote communities. GMAs are designed to eerily over the Kafue, we drift silently only to gulp down large chunks of rotting tantalise for the day ahead. scarce, but good potential. northern sibling of South Luangwa; provide a buffer between the pristine downstream in a boat reminiscent of the flesh before diving again for more. Liuwa Plain National Park: remote far temporary bush camps only; focus Caption here caption national park and the developed African Queen, listening intently to avoid Meanwhile squadrons of skimmers caption here west; few roads or facilities, but under on walking safaris; excellent wildlife, land beyond. In theory they offer the an unwelcome collision with any of the swoop low over the river scooping out development; one campsite; large notably buffalo and lion. same habitat and ecosystem as the imposing pods of local hippos. fish with their trailing bills, while on the herds of wildebeest in season. Nsumbu (Sumbu) National Park: on park, but in practice there is usually Our vessel, the Fish Eagle, is as bank a skittish leopard laps hypnotically Lochinvar National Park: wide shore of Lake Tanganyika in far north; less wildlife due to illegal hunting bizarre as its name: an ancient banana and elephants graze amongst the floodplains beside the Kafue River; needs redevelopment, but has good and pressure for land. Conservation boat, seemingly built from tin and thatch, shadowy papyrus beds. prolific bird life and lechwe; floods in wildlife potential and lakeside game projects aim to reverse this trend by that takes us right into the intimate lives Lion expert and author Chris McBride, season; one lodge. viewing; three lodges. regenerating game resources and of the riverine wildlife. ‘Look’ exclaims best known for bringing his extraordinary Lower Zambezi National Park: east Nyika National Park: in far east, along helping communities live sustainably. McBride, pointing to the river bank, as discovery of South Africa’s rare white of Lusaka; great wildlife viewing by Malawi border, and best reached from Controlled hunting is permitted in crocodiles devour the underside of a lion cubs to the outside world in the late land and water on the Zambezi River; Malawi side; highland scenery; excellent GMAs but not in national parks. several lodges. flowers and birdwatching; one lodge Visa values White pelicans and Kafue lechwe On 26 January Zambia’s tourist visa policy changed overnight, reports the African at Lochinvar National Park Travel & Tourism Association (ATTA). The visa fee waiver policy was abolished with Game viewing and access is best during immediate effect and, at the same time, the price of visas was raised. The cost of the dry season from June to October. single-entry visas is now as follows: Details at: www.mcbridescamp.com UK nationals: US$140 Other EU members: US$50 USA nationals: US$135 DID YOU KNOW? Canada nationals US$55 The number of tourists visiting This decision has caused some consternation in the travel and tourism industry, Zambia is estimated to have which at present is lobbying the government for change. ‘The cost of these new increased by 6.4 percent to visas is high and the lack of a visa-waiver for bona fide tourists is a real hit,’ says 805,059 in 2007. In turn, the Chris McIntyre of leading UK tour operator Expert Africa. ‘Sadly, it may put visitors tourism sector’s earnings off safaris in Zambia, and be self-defeating.’ increased to an estimated Details at: www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm (Zambian Immigration Department) US $188 million from US $177 or www.atta.travel (African Travel & Tourism Association). million in 2006. ZAMBIA NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD TOURIST ZAMBIA NATIONAL 48 Travel Zambia Spring 2008 Spring 2008 Travel Zambia 49 Vakacha SAFARI Photographer’s tips Everybody can be a better Nkani photographer. The answer is not More firsts for Kafue technique or equipment, but the human eye. Cameras are tools that take pictures, but only people make photographs. The ‘technique’ of photography is a trade or craft, just like carpentry or knitting. The Vakacha ‘art’ of photography is about just one thing: ‘seeing’ the picture. We can train ourselves to better ‘see’ the picture. Try looking in a whole new way at every image, scene or event you come across. As you go about your daily life, Nkani whether at home, at work or even Many national parks claim to offer ‘the real Africa’, but few can compare in the pub, try taking photographs with Kafue for sheer size and wilderness. After years of neglect and under- in your head. Soon ‘seeing’ will investment, some exciting developments are returning this magnificent be second nature. Then, putting park to its former glory. Tim Henshall reports on the latest. a camera in your hands will put you in a sort of ‘seeing zone’. Konkamoya Lodge, located on the banks Konkamoya joins independent lodges As one of photography’s greats, of Lake Itezhy Tezhy in the southern around the park, including Kaingu Safari Dorothea Lange, explained it: sector of Kafue, opened early in 2008. Lodge and Nanzhila Plains Camp, to form the “A camera is a tool that allows This intimate camp, lovingly created by Kushiyana Collection. This collection, which those without one to see.” the Cooke family, consists of just three means ‘variety’ in the local nyanja language, chalets and thus ensures a very personal has been refined ahead of a relaunch Stephen Robinson is a Zambia-based experience for nature lovers. Game later this year. Each camp is situated in photographer who specialises in viewing is conducted in an open 4WD a spectacular and distinct location, from nature and environmental subjects. vehicle, on foot or by boat on the lake the eastern riverine bush of Kaingu to the His Spirit of the Land project explores itself. Fishing, as you might expect, is a sweeping savannah of Nanzhila Plains and Zambia’s landscapes and the people speciality, as are canoeing safaris, and lakeshore of Konkamoya. Together they offer who depend so directly upon them. there’s a definite thrill to gently floating the complete spectrum of Kafue’s diverse For more of his work visit www.spirit- on the lake while elephants wallow landscapes and attractions.
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