BARINGTON UPS WARNACO STAKE/2 BENDEL’S BUILDS TEAM/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • August 22, 2006 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Swinging In the Rain Designers are romancing the trenchcoat for spring, adding girly touches such as dramatically nipped waists, lace details and cropped sleeves. Here, Rachel Roy’s silk taffeta trench with leather lace. LaDuca shoes. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Streamlining at SFA: Andrew Jennings Out As Store’s President By David Moin NEW YORK — The power struggle at a top- R + KRAMER; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN STYLED BY R + KRAMER; heavy Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises

TZ/KRAME is over: Andrew Jennings is out as the retailer’s president after a tenuous two- and-a-half years. Saks said Monday that Jennings had resigned and that it was his “personal

.COM; MAKEUP BY SUZANNE KA .COM; MAKEUP BY decision to leave SFAE and return overseas, where he spent the majority of his distinguished 30-year retail career.” Jennings would not comment on his departure, or where he will be working next, although it is believed he is close

’OFFICIAL/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO to taking a new position. He also held the post of chief operating officer and See Jennings, Page 12 EL: HOLLY/ELITE; HAIR BY FRANCKY L FRANCKY HAIR BY EL: HOLLY/ELITE; PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MOD KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 WWD.COM Investor Group Takes 5.6% Warnaco Stake By David Moin and Vicki M. Young Excluding the CKJEA business, revenues rose 3.5 per- cent to $387.9 million from $374.7 million a year ago. WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — A group of investors led by Barington For the six months, net income fell 51.5 percent Capital Group L.P. has accumulated a 5.6 percent stake to $17.3 million, while revenues rose 12.3 percent in Warnaco and is seeking to discuss with manage- to $914.4 million. FASHION ment the possibility of pursuing strategic alternatives, Warnaco previously said it was restating fi - Always a favorite, the classic trench has been updated for spring, with including the sale of all or parts of the company. nancial statements for its fi scal year ended Dec. 6 greater attention to construction, often with details such as fl y fronts. “We believe that there are a lot of improve- 31 and the fi rst fi scal quarter due to accounting ments this company could make to increase share- issues related to some returns and vendor allow- holder value,” James Mitarotonda, chairman and ances at the Chaps men’s wear division. GENERAL chief executive offi cer of Barington, told WWD. On a recent conference call, the question of sell- Andrew Jennings has resigned as president and chief operating offi cer “Warnaco has outstanding brands.” ing the company did come up. Joe Gromek, president 1 of Saks Fifth Avenue, its number-two executive after ceo Steve Sadove. In its announcement Monday, and ceo of Warnaco, responded that An investment group led by Barington Capital Group has acquired a 5.6 Barington cited “a string of recent the “board takes shareholder value 2 percent stake in Warnaco and is pushing a possible sale of the fi rm. operating disappointments stem- very seriously” and that “manage- ming from the recently announced ment understands our credibility is RTW: Trunk shows don’t pack the punch they used to for smaller financial restatement caused by on the line.” 9 houses, and as a result some ready-to-wear fi rms are scaling back. accounting issues at the Chaps Warnaco, in an SEC fi ling Mon- Nili Lotan is opening her fi rst store in TriBeCa, has new lines for Fred division and swimwear segment, day, said it sent a letter to Baring- 10 Segal and Scoop, and a girls’ outerwear collection. and the resulting SEC informal in- ton’s Mitarotonda and to Jeffrey quiry,” which has been previously Solomon at Ramius Capital Group TEXTILES: APL Logistics and Con-way Freight have formed a service to reported. It also said Warnaco has in response to their 5.6 percent 11 ship goods that are not a full container from China to the U.S. been outperformed by its peers. stake in the company. Chicago Mayor Richard M. Daley has put his clout and resources behind Barington is an investment The letter, dated Aug. 21 and boosting the city’s fashion and retail presence with a trio of initiatives. management firm that primarily signed by Gromek, indicated the 13 invests in undervalued, small and Warnaco board “takes its fi duciary Scandinavian style proved itself to be geyser hot at the CPH Vision fair, mid-cap companies. Its Warnaco duties to our shareholders very 14 where buyers lauded the labels for their style savvy and affordability. stake was disclosed in a filing seriously. Let me state unequivo- with the Securities and Exchange cally that our interests in improving Commission. shareholder value are absolutely EYE Art dealer Amy Greenspon represents a new crop of gallerists who know 4 their Balenciagas, along with their Matthew Barneys. We continuously look at every means of enhancing “ Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 shareholder value. There’s not a day that we don’t look at To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. every aspect to improve shareholder value. [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- ” — Joe Gromek, Warnaco RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 37. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- At one time or another, Barington has taken sig- aligned with yours. To that end, our board and man- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers nifi cant stakes in companies such as Nautica, Steve agement are always open to exploring ideas de- Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Madden, Maxwell Shoes, Stride Rite, Syms Corp. and signed to enhance shareholder value and will care- C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; Pep Boys. fully review the suggestions made in your Schedule David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance In the past, Barington has pursued management 13D. Additionally, we are available to meet with you Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. changes and board seats at certain other compa- again to further discuss your perspective.” Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. nies, but has given no indication it was intending to Gromek, who spoke to WWD after the fi ling, said 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS do so at Warnaco. he’s met with Barington and Ramius representa- CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, In its announcement, Barington said Warnaco’s tives before, but pointed out that in the previous ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four gross and EBITDA margins currently trail peer av- meeting they did not raise the issues complained weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. erages by approximately 800 and 600 basis points, of in their 13D fi ling, such as the improvement of Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other respectively, and that the investor group would execution by Warnaco’s senior management team, U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, also like to see a reduction in sales, general and the disposition of noncore assets and brands and and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions administrative expenses, and corporate expenses the exploration of alternatives, including the sale and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To and better merchandising. of the company. subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Barington also mentioned its intentions to dis- “This is the fi rst time they raised those issues,” interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise cuss with management the possibility of the dispo- Gromek said. “We continuously look at every us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. sition of noncore brands and licenses, especially means of enhancing shareholder value. There’s WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- in the underperforming intimate apparel and not a day that we don’t look at every aspect to im- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, swimwear segments. Calvin Klein Underwear, prove shareholder value.” OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Speedo and Warner’s have been performing well. While he declined comment on whether there As reported, Warnaco’s second-quarter profi ts were any current discussions that were ongoing re- fell 45.9 percent, due in part to poor performance garding the sale of the company, he said emphati- in the sportswear group and a higher dilution at cally, “I think that the shareholders in Warnaco Chaps, caused by higher markdown allowances. have the same objective, to increase value for our In Brief Revenues jumped 20.5 percent to $451.6 million company. We’re working diligently to do that.” from $374.7 million, but the quarter’s results include Gromek emphasized Warnaco has strong brands ● INDITEX LOGISTICS: Inditex, the Spanish retailer that the Calvin Klein Jeans and related businesses in and people working at a high level to improve the owns the Zara fashion chain, is building a logistics center in Europe and Asia, which were acquired on Jan. 31. company and the value of shares. Meco, Spain, just outside of Madrid. The project reportedly will cost 300 million euros, or $385 million at current exchange rates, and will create 4,200 jobs. No Inditex executive could be reached for comment. Inditex’s deputy chairman and chief executive offi cer Pablo Isla visited the site with the president of the Communidad de Madrid last week. Inditex is building a Fire Damages Emporio Armani SoHo Unit second logistics center in Leon, Spain. “The goal is to help ad- just the logistics capacity of the group to the strong expansion By Sharon Edelson Monday, a sign in its window read: clothing or other merchandise. of all its commercial formats,” Inditex said in the statement. “Closed due to minor damage The Fire Department re- NEW YORK — The Emporio caused by fi re in the building.” ceived the call about the blaze ● RENT IT: Seattle-based Bag, Borrow or Steel, a two-year- Armani store at 410 West Broad- The store suffered water at 10:58 p.m. Sunday. It took a old Web site that rents designer handbags from brands such way in SoHo here was closed damage as a result of efforts to little over an hour to bring it as Gucci and Chanel, has launched a fi ne jewelry rental ser- put out a three-alarm fi re that under control, an FDNY spokes- vice. After paying a membership fee, consumers can rent jew- erupted on the sixth fl oor and man said, adding, “The fi re is elry pieces by the week or month from designers like Faraone roof of the building Sunday under investigation. There’s no Menella, Kara Ross and Charriol that retail from $200 to helsea Button night. There were no reported cause yet.” $10,000. Michael Smith, chief executive offi cer, said, “Our cus- C International, Inc. injuries. In January, Prada’s Epicenter tomers have been asking for it, and the overall response has USA “The store is being closed for concept store at 575 Broadway been really positive.” The company also has plans to start a Tel: (908)259-1400 a couple of days,” said an Em- in SoHo was damaged by a fi ve- wedding shop on the site, in addition to expanding into apparel Fax: (908)259-1519 porio Armani employee, adding, alarm fi re in the building. The for women, men and children. Email: [email protected] “It will defi nitely reopen again. store was closed for two months Chelsea Button (Far East) Co. The ceiling had to be taken down before reopening. But the dam- ● CULTURED PEARL REP: Perles de Tahiti, the trade associa- Hong Kong due to the water damage and age to the interior was much tion that represents Tahitian cultured pearls internationally, Tel: (852)2 402-8889 aired out. The speakers are dam- more extensive and elements has named Alfred Martin chairman. Martin is chairman and Fax: (852)2 402-8323 Email: [email protected] aged, the fi tting room lights are such as a curved zebrawood general manager of Poe Rava Nui, a pearl producer group in out and the air-conditioning is fl oor, a stage, futuristic steps and French Polynesia and auctioneer of Tahitian cultured pearls. Buttons, Trims & Accessories not running.” aluminum mesh cages suspend- He succeeds Robert Wan, chairman of the Tahiti Perles brand A Giorgio Armani spokesman ed from the ceiling had to be re- and the Professional Association of Pearl Producers. said there was no damage to stored to their original state. WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 3 WWD.COM Henri Bendel Taps Two Fashion Execs Hot Kiss to Unveil By David Moin Ann Watson Neiman Marcus and as a fashion merchandis- NEW YORK — Henri Ben- ing and communications First Three Scents del, seeking to recapture consultant in the U.S. an image as a fashion lead- and Asia. By Rachel Brown A Hot Kiss er and round out its ap- “Scott and Ann bring look.look. peal, has hired two former a wealth of merchandis- LOS ANGELES — Pop Saks Fifth Avenue execu- ing, product develop- princesses will have tives, WWD has learned. ment, trend forecasting more options on perfume Scott Schramm has be- and branding expertise shelves this holiday sea- come senior vice president to the Henri Bendel son thanks to junior ap- and general merchandise leadership team,” Ed parel company Hot Kiss manager for fashion, a new Bucciarelli, Bendel’s Inc.’s first fragrances. role at the store. president and chief ex- The fragrance collec- At Saks Fifth Avenue, ecutive offi cer, said in a tion, which is expected Schramm spent 18 years statement. to include three scents, in key merchant roles, Bendel’s, a division each retailing for around most recently as senior of Limited Brands Inc., $35, will be produced by vice president, strategic hasn’t had a fashion Demeter Fragrance Li- merchandise planning and director in years. The brary under a licensing allocation. He will oversee store’s recent strength agreement. It’s the latest all nonbeauty merchan- has been in cosmetics addition to Los Angeles- dise categories, including and lingerie, and in stag- based Hot Kiss’ burgeon- accessories, handbags, de- ing a steady calendar of ing lifestyle offering. The signer collections, ready- parties and events. But company has put its name to-wear and knitwear. the company’s heyday on everything — from In addition, Ann Watson was in the Seventies eyewear to intimates to has been appointed as vice president and fash- and early Eighties under the direction of the luggage — that a trendy ion director. Watson was senior director of retail legendary Geraldine Stutz, who pioneered the teenager or young woman for Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Prior to join- concept of “the street of shops” and was known could possibly desire. ing Starwood, Watson held key fashion direc- for innovative and avant-garde merchandising “We have become such tion and merchandising positions at Saks and that other retailers tried to emulate. a lifestyle that we wanted to complete that circle,” said Moshe Tsabag, chief executive offi cer of Hot Kiss. “The thing that was the most natu- ral to do was the fragrance.” percent on top of a 7.1 percent decline in 2005, He estimates the Hot Kiss scent collection will generate $4 This Old House made $61 million in ad revenue million in sales volume during its fi rst year. MEMO PAD alone last year, according to Publishers Information David Horner, a Bureau (that said, it’s one-tenth the size of principal and stra- both Time and Sports Illustrated). Reed Phillips, tegic planning con- MAKING THE NUMBERS: Have rate base offenders managing partner at DeSilva & Phillips, estimates BEAUTY BEAT sultant at Demeter, fi nally cleaned up their acts? At fi rst glance, 20 This Old House could fetch anywhere from $75 which is known for or so magazines missed rate base in the fi rst half million to $100 million should the property be capturing familiar smells such as Play-Doh and Ginger Cookies, of 2006, according to numbers released Monday sold. For E.W. Scripps in particular, buying the said he is taking a fashion approach to Hot Kiss perfume. by the Audit Bureau of Circulations, compared entity represents its most earnest attempt to “The thrust of our fragrance creation is: You don’t wear last with 35 in the December 2005 reporting period. marry a sizable old media print property with new year’s clothes, why wear last year’s fragrance,” he said. He is The fashion crowd all made their published rate media television and Web offerings. In 2002, the still working on the precise formulation of the scents. bases. Among the bigger titles that missed: Time4 company launched a magazine to coincide with The Hot Kiss perfume bottle is also being fi ne-tuned, but Media’s Golf; Hachette Filipacchi Media’s Home the Fine Living channel, but no longer publishes Horner described the look as “fashionista.” Tsabag envisions and defunct Elle Girl and Bauer teen titles J-14 the title. However, Scripps currently produces the packaging to be thin and tall, perhaps 6 inches, with a cap and Twist. But many titles that missed their rate newspaper specials that play off content from shaped like lips. “It is sleek and narrow, very sexy-looking. Not bases in the past — TV Guide, Playboy and Spin, HGTV. Said a spokesperson for Scripps on the a very bulky thing,” he said. for example — delivered on their circulation potential purchase: “We do not comment on Horner is investigating several tactics to get the Hot Kiss guarantees this spring. In 2005, Playboy, Spin, TV specifi c acquisition opportunities.” fragrance into the hands of consumers. Some probabilities: put- Guide, Ebony and Discover were among those that Meanwhile, Time Inc. has several reasons to ting the scent on hangtags or in Hot Kiss shoe boxes. One likely missed their respective rate bases during the June hold on to the title: Media observers believe This maneuver is pairing a small tester with a larger bottle so cus- or December reports. Since then, each title lowered Old House acts as a model to shareholders on tomers can carry a small amount in their purses and share the its rate base in anticipation of the fi rst-half 2006 the company’s ability to manage a magazine as scent with friends. statement and each made their rate bases during a multimedia property, thus shunning naysayers Horner anticipates that retail distribution will be strong in the fi rst half. who believe the company is too slow to the new apparel specialty stores, where Hot Kiss already has a signifi - Of course, the magazines could have simply media world order. Additionally, analysts suspect cant presence, with department stores playing a secondary role. been thinking ahead with their rate base reductions that it’s against Time Inc. chief executive offi cer With the right specialty store deal, he projected that Hot Kiss’ to the arrival of the new verifi ed paid circulation Ann Moore’s best interest to sell the title because fragrance collection could rapidly be available in 1,000 doors. category this spring on the Fas-Fax statement, the revenue wouldn’t benefi t her division’s bottom “I don’t think my customer goes to the traditional depart- which breaks out a magazine’s number of public line. “The way that Time Warner is set up, if you ment stores,” Horner said. “Department stores aren’t any lon- place copies from the total circulation. In addition, sell something, the money that you get goes to ger a destination for young, beauty-savvy people.” last year’s circulation scandal surrounding the corporation, then you have to make up the third-party agents EBSCO Consumer Magazine lost revenue,” said one analyst on the condition Services and InFlight Newspapers and Magazines of anonymity. “There’s really not a lot of incentive could have softened numbers through 2005 for [to sell] on the manager’s part unless you’re losing at least 100 titles when ABC disqualifi ed paid money.” Instead, analysts believe there are smaller N.Y. Doctor Files Suit Against Arden subscriptions from the two sales agents. Finally, niche titles in the Time4 division the company noted ABC spokesman Neal Lulofs, fewer magazines could sell off fi rst. — S.D.S. NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden was hit with a $10 million false are claiming a rate base compared with past endorsement lawsuit last week over advertising for its Prevage years. Lulofs said only 46 percent of ABC member BARBIE’S DREAM WEEK: It looks like Ken is going to products. magazines claimed a rate base this period, while be jealous because Barbie will be getting all the Elizabeth Arden declined to comment on the lawsuit. 52 percent of ABC members claimed a rate base attention at New York Fashion Week. Mao Public Amy B. Lewis, a New York physician practicing cosmetic four years ago. — Stephanie D. Smith Relations will pass out its seventh edition of Mao medicine and dermatology, fi led a lawsuit in federal court in Mag — which features Andy Warhol’s Barbie Manhattan against Arden for allegedly using her name to en- HOME DEPOT: Could This Old House be wooed from painting on the cover — outside the tents, as dorse its Prevage skin care products without her permission. Time4 Media’s comfy homestead? Sources close to well as inside Betsey Johnson’s goodie bags. About Lewis’ complaint includes allegations of false endorsement, the magazine say Time Inc. has been approached 25,000 copies of the 106-page issue will be false advertising, dilution of trademark, invasion of priva- by a handful of buyers interested in the entity, printed, said Mauricio Padilha, Mao’s ceo, adding his cy and fraud. She is asking for a minimum of $10 million in including E.W. Scripps, home of cable networks aim is to inform young designers about fashion’s damages. HGTV, The Food Network and the Do-It-Yourself history. “Too many people only care about what According to court documents, Arden asked Lewis to provide Network. But according to sources familiar with Lindsay Lohan is wearing,” he added. a quote about the antioxidant in the Prevage line for use in in- the title, Time Inc. refuses to let go. A Time Inc. The issue celebrates Barbie turning 47 and has ternal marketing materials and in-store materials distributed spokeswoman underplayed the pursuit, saying, designers such as Catherine Malandrino and Kimora to Saks Fifth Avenue here last fall. Lewis alleged that she was “Generally we have a lot of different money people Lee Simmons contributing their designs to outfi t a not told that her opinion would “be featured in a marketing and venture capital people trying to pick off bits model Barbie. campaign suggesting a professional endorsement of Arden’s and pieces [of the company].” The magazine also includes never-before-seen Prevage skin care product.” Lewis’ statement has appeared in Analysts aren’t surprised at the interest in This photographs from Madonna’s fi rst album shoot in an international marketing campaign that included newspapers, Old House, a division that includes a magazine, 1983 by photographer Gary Heery and an interview magazines, the Internet, in-store circulars and displays, accord- two TV shows, books, DVDs and a Web site. with Hugh Hefner, who tells the magazine he’s secured ing to the complaint. Although pages through July are down 17.1 the burial plot next to Marilyn Monroe’s. — Amy Wicks — Liza Casabona 4 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 WWD.COM The Gallerinas NEW YORK — Amy Greenspon sits at her desk in Chelsea’s Marianne Boesky Gallery here in dark denim APC jeans, Balenciaga boots and a cropped Proenza Schouler blazer. Around her neck a Chloé scarf is tied in an intentional mess. A far cry from the art dealer stereotype of an aggressive, cigar-chomping male, Greenspon represents a new crop of gallerists who know their Balenciaga as well as their Matthew Barney. “Traditionally, a few generations earlier, women would have to wear a black shift. And you can go to Christie’s and still fi nd that,” she says. “But today, especially in downtown galleries, you can be a bit more creative.” One of the pioneers of this creativity, according to Melissa Bent and Mirabelle Marden of the Rivington Arms gallery, is Art Production Fund founder Yvonne Force Villareal. And she’ll defend her over-the-top wardrobe: “My predecessors were more careful — they had to wear a suit to be taken seriously,” says Force Villareal. “I think now one can wear a crazy frock and be taken seriously — if the work is quality…but I have to quote Vanessa Beecroft here,” she sighs. “ ‘Fashion is like coffee; I don’t need it, but it helps me work.’” Here is a roundup of some New York gallery girls who embrace their fashion as MELISSA BENT AND MIRABELLE MARDEN seriously as their art. Gallery: Rivington Arms — Derek Blasberg Hometown: Boston Ages: Bent, 28; Marden, 27 BARBARA WILHELM Education: Sarah Lawrence Gallery: Gagosian Major: No majors at Sarah Lawrence, although Bent’s concentration Gallery, New York ALEX TUTTLE was art history and literature, while Marden studied dance and Hometown: Vienna Gallery: John Connelly Presents photography; Marden later studied photography at NYU’s Tisch Age: 30 Hometown: Los Angeles School of the Arts. Education: Barnard Age: 27 How they met: During their fi rst week at Sarah Lawrence through a College Education: B.A. from Duke mutual friend, and according to Bent, “We both just knew.” Major: Art history University Favorite artists: Bent: Caravaggio, Pierre Bonnard, Edouard Manet, Interesting tidbit: Major: Art history Mark Rothko, Willem de Kooning, David Hockney, Kara Walker and “My grandparents are Interesting tidbit: Lived in the Nan Goldin; Marden: Rothko, Gustave Courbet, William Eggleston obsessive collectors of Dominican Republic for a year and Gordon Matta-Clark. Persian rugs.” after graduating, teaching art and Favorite piece: Bent: “Too many to name.” Marden: “Right now it’s Favorite artists: “At photography. the Kore statues at the Acropolis Museum in Athens.” the moment Lucio Favorite artists: Joan Jonas, Mark Favorite museum/galleries: Taxter & Spengemann, The Met, MoMA, Fontana, Gustav Klimt, Grotjahn, and Kati Heck. The Courtauld Institute, Dicksmith Gallery, Matthew Marks Gallery Egon Schiele, Ed Favorite piece: Eva Hesse and Musée d’Orsay. Ruscha and Clyfford “Repetition Nineteen III,” 1968. Favorite labels/shops: Bent: Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Still.” Favorite museum/galleries: CFA, Marni, Sari Gueron; Marden: Mayle, Daryl K, Rachel Comey, APC Favorite piece: Berlin; Armand Hammer, L.A.; and Opening Ceremony. Leonardo da Vinci, Serpentine, London. “Lady With an Favorite labels/shops: Margiela, Ermine” LD Tuttle shoes (designed by older Favorite museum/ sister, Tiffany), Opening Ceremony AMY GREENSPON galleries: Neue and fl ea markets. Gallery: Marianne Galerie. “It reminds Boesky me of home.” Hometown: New Favorite labels/shops: Yo r k Gianfranco Ferré, Age: 27 Prada, Marni, Dries Education: New Van Noten, Costume York University National, Stella Major: Art history McCartney and Oscar Interesting tidbit: de la Renta. Her father, William Greenspon, was a successful psychiatrist but gave it up to JANINE FOELLER AND JANE HAIT become a leading Gallery: Wallspace dealer of American PMC VILLAREAL ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; FORCE BY JOHN HONAS GRUEN/HULTON BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SOLOMON BY Hometown: Foeller, outside Philadelphia; Hait, L.A. folk art. Ages: 29 Favorite artists: Education: Foeller, Barnard College; Hait, Brown University Mathew Cerletty, Major: Foeller, art history; Hait, art semiotics Philip Guston, How they met: Alex Wagner, editor of Fader Magazine, introduced Bruce Nauman, the two because she thought they would work well together. Andy Warhol, Karen Interesting tidbit: They share a secret passion for basement Kilimnik and Robert Roller Derby. Goder. Favorite artists: “Our own, obviously,” a group that includes Favorite museum/ Dave Miko, Kristen Stoltmann and Walead Beshty. Along with galleries: Other than others like Vija Celmins, Felix Gonzalez-Torres, Dan Graham, her own, Greene Thomas Hirschhorn and Tom Friedman. Naftali, Anton Kern Favorite piece: “We’re partial to the James Turrell room at P.S. 1.” and The Met. Favorite museum/galleries: Museum of Contemporary Art, L.A. Favorite labels/ Favorite labels/shops: The Savers thrift store outside shops: Balenciaga, Providence, R.I. Dries Van Noten and particularly Jane Hait, Alex Tuttle and Janine Foeller. Proenza Schouler. ART HISTORY These art chicks have had quite a trail blazed for them. Here, a time line of fashionable ladies of yore. Fifties: Betty Parsons. Born in 1900, Parsons was a pioneering force She’s had her own record label, Dog w/a Bone, since she opened her own gallery in 1968. throughout the 20th century. Referred to as the “den mother of Abstract Expressionism,” she supported such artists as Jackson Eighties: Helene Winer and Janelle Reiring. Founders of Metro Pictures Pollock and Mark Rothko. Gallery in Chelsea, this pair’s muted and classic aesthetic got them through a diffi cult time in fashion — the Eighties. Their gallery Sixties: Holly Solomon (left). Her chunk of white hair and sultry still represents some of the biggest names in art, including Cindy demeanor remain hallmarks of the Sixties art scene, and were Sherman, Louise Lawler and Tony Oursler. immortalized in a Warhol silkscreen portrait series. Before her death she established a gallery on Mercer Street in SoHo, the last fashionable Nineties: Yvonne Force Villareal (right). The self-described “Brigitte testament to the icon. Bardot meets Gloria Steinem,” Force Villareal has proven herself a powerhouse both in a ballgown at fashion shows and in front of a Seventies: Paula Cooper. Cooper has been unconventional — in dress, art and music. canvas at art openings. GREENSPON PHOTO BY JOE SCHILDHORN/PMC; WILHELM BY BILLY FARRELL/PMC; BENT AND MARDEN BY STEVE EICHNER; FOELLER, HAIT AND TUTTLE STEVE EICHNER; FOELLER, BENT AND MARDEN BY FARRELL/PMC; BILLY JOE SCHILDHORN/PMC; WILHELM BY GREENSPON PHOTO BY AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. ©Cotton Incorporated, 2006. Singapore • INESE. Shanghai • that can help you and your that can help you Osaka • Mexico City • cn.cottoninc.com COTTON INCORPORATED COTTON Los Angeles • New York New York • COTTONINC.COM IS NOW AVAILABLE IN CH COTTONINC.COM IS NOW AVAILABLE Cary, NC Since what happens in China is so important to all of us who work with cotton textiles, to the made the resources on the Cotton Incorporatedwe’ve available website Chinese reader. to U.S. From textile research and fashion forecasting cotton fiber statistics, cn.cottoninc.com expertise provides and resources suppliers better cotton products. make Cotton Incorporated worldwide on building cotton and cotton is focused demand for those working for with cotton. the profitability products while improving No matter speak. or what language you live where you 6 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 Weathering Heights Always a favorite, the classic trench has been updated for spring. Designers are paying greater attention to construction, using sleek, even architectural, lines, often with such details as fl y fronts.

Antonio Berardi’s cotton and silk coat. Sergio Rossi shoes.

Yeohlee’s cotton and Roberto Cavalli’s cotton polyurethane coat. and silk coat and cotton Hermès belt and and linen dress from Milly. vintage Coach boots. WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 7 WWD.COM Y SUZANNE KATZ/KRAMER + KRAMER; FASHION ASSISTANT: CINNAMON ST. JOHN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN JOHN; STYLED BY CINNAMON ST. ASSISTANT: FASHION + KRAMER; Y SUZANNE KATZ/KRAMER

Nili Lotan’s cotton coat and Tocca’s wool and nylon dress. Sergio Rossi sandals. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODELS: HOLLY/ELITE AND MICHELLE/NEXT; HAIR BY FRANCKY L’OFFICIAL/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; MAKEUP B L’OFFICIAL/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; FRANCKY HAIR BY AND MICHELLE/NEXT; ERICKSEN; MODELS: HOLLY/ELITE KYLE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 WWD.COM Platinum Setting NEW YORK — In the glamorous, embellished world of Mark Badgley and James Mischka, basic separates just don’t cut it. That’s the reason the designers’ fi rst bridge sportswear lineup, named Badgley Mischka Platinum Sportswear, is full of pretty chiffon blouses, romantic lacy dresses and feminine jacquard jackets. The collection, which wholesales from $200 to $500, will be introduced during fashion week. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 9 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Holding Fast to the Dog Days of Summer NEW YORK — With the New York runway shows only a few weeks away, many design- Gulf and eat great seafood. Chanin will also work on her book, “The Project Alabama ers are trying to squeeze in a few more days of sun and fun before the last-minute Stitchbook,” a primer for people who want to re-create Project Alabama pieces at push to finish their collections. more affordable prices. Stewart, Tabori & Chang will publish the book in fall 2007. Several designers attending last week’s Council of Fashion Designers of America Tina Lutz will also be mixing in work with her last summer getaways. Since Coach is party in the garden of Arnold Scaasi’s Beekman Place apartment building here said hosting an event for its collaboration with Lutz & Patmos, Lutz and her design partner they were content just to take in the idyllic surrounding. But others said they have a Marcia Patmos will skip a formal presentation for their own label. That’s welcome news few pre-show adventures ahead. for Lutz, who hopes to spend some long weekends at the country house on 42 acres Perhaps the most ambitious pastime is something Nicole Miller tries to do on she and her husband built in Rhode Island. With a new venture with Volkswagen a regular basis. “I always try to get some wakeboarding and waterskiing in. I and another with the Japanese streetwear chain Uniqlo, Lutz will have plenty go every Sunday morning for a couple of hours with my son,” she said. to do even when she is out of town. On working weekends, she plans to go out to the Hamptons Saturday CFDA president Steven Kolb was also mixing business with plea- afternoon and come back to the city on Sunday. sure. Instead of staying in Pebble Beach, Calif., for last Friday’s fash- Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa said he already had his summer ion show featuring fi nalists from the Council of Fashion Designers of sojourns. Earlier this month he retreated upstate to Saratoga and Dana America/Vogue Fashion Fund, Kolb planned to drive along Route 1 to checked out the horse races. The designer said he would like to get Buchman San Francisco. out to his country home in Bellport on Long Island at some point, but Yeohlee Teng said she will steal away to Sagaponack on Long Island that might not happen before the show. “I’m in work for a weekend or two. “I enjoy bike rides and long swims in mode now.” the ocean and pool. I’m a little afraid of the ocean’s undercur- For Gilles Mendel, in-line skating in Central Park rent. But life’s full of undercurrents, isn’t it?” on Sunday mornings is the ideal August escape. Of Another Hamptons goer is Carmen Marc Valvo, who said he course, he dresses for the occasion in cargo shorts, will probably try to unwind by “pruning his magnolia and hydran- a Yellow Man tattoo-printed shirt with a Fruit of the gea trees and will do a last lap in the pool.” Loom T-shirt layered over it. “It not only looks right Dana Buchman will also be basking in life’s simpler mo- but it’s made of those lightweight fabrics that always ments, when work allows. “I’ll sit down with a book under a keep you dry.” Mendel said. STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY tree outside our house in Bellport. I just fi nished ‘The Places in He said he likes to hang out on the 72nd Street Between’ about a man’s walk across Afghanistan. It was exotic transverse watching the in-line skaters groove to and mysterious — it took me away from all this,” she said. Eighties music, especially disco and funk. “That’s Others at the CFDA party weren’t so sure they would get to where you might see me with my sunglasses — slip out of town before their runway shows. Esteban Cortazar maybe not dancing — but close by,” he said. plans to stay put for the most part. “Aside from being in jail Mendel even plans to lace up the in-line skates in my studio, I’m not really doing much. If anything, I might on Sept. 10 just days before his runway show in take one last weekend to spend as much time as I can on South Bryant Park. “That may be the most surreal mo- Beach, going in the water and meditating by myself.” ment,” he laughed. Thom Browne is also all work these days. Gesturing to- Project Alabama’s Natalie Chanin said she, ward the 6,000-square-foot garden overlooking the East River Butch Landry and their four-month-old daughter Carmen outside Scaasi’s apartment building, he said, “This is pretty are heading to the “Redneck Riviera” in Alabama, Marc great. It shows what fashion can give you if you do well.” where they will hang out at their house, kayak in the Nicole Miller Valvo Yeohlee Teng — Rosemary Feitelberg Some Rethink the Value of Trunk Shows NEW YORK — Trunk shows don’t pack the punch they “I so wish stores would become less reliant on ments and a new marketing campaign. At the show, used to for smaller houses, and, as a result, some shows as the customer often has a diffi cult time fi nd- stores were looking for spring suits, wholesaling from ready-to-wear resources are scaling back a bit. ing clothes that she does not have to wait for. That’s $500 to $700, and eveningwear wholesaling from $995 That was the word among attendees at the a complaint we hear often,” she said. “I do think that to $1,900, she said. Designers at the Jumeirah Essex House show, held there are way too many trunk shows. When business One Essex House attendee, Susan Lee Drenning, here earlier this month. The main problem is too began to go south after 9/11, it seems like every com- owner of the Susan Lee boutique in Atlanta, said she many special occasion and minor league rtw designers pany began to do shows — many without orders.” steers clear of trunk shows. ramped up their trunk show schedules and consumers Heister refrained from increasing the company’s “I’ve never done many trunk shows. I’m very dif- have lost interest, show resources said. trunk shows and has no plans to do so. She prefers to ferent [than most] that way,” she said. “I have to That is far from the case with big-time designer la- work directly with retailers on their special orders, be in love with a company to have a trunk show. bels, of course. In May, Bergdorf Goodman broke its re- and noted Mark Heister’s special-order business is They just create a lot of confusion. I don’t like cord for a three-day Chanel trunk show by drumming 20 percent ahead of last year. the designer standing between me and my up $6.1 million in business. That same month, Michael “People are really focused on novelties. The customer. The designer might be trying to Kors generated $700,000 in sales at a three-day trunk market is really cooling and what’s selling is show the customer what she wants to sell show at Richards of Greenwich, a specialty store in the what’s unusual,” she said. that day, but it’s not necessarily what the tony Connecticut town. Novelty jackets, wholesaling between $550 customer wants.” Frank Agostino, who designs daywear, eveningwear and $690, especially one in a butterfl y brocade, At the show, Drenning said she liked and special occasion under the Agostino label and were bestsellers at the show, she said. the “wonderful new novelty fabrics” runs a signature boutique in Bryn Mawr, Pa., said, “I Another shift she said she noticed is how used by Mark Heister, especially the feel the consumer is so burnt out with trunk shows that clothes are either very dressy or very casual. ones in the brocade jackets. She also occur weekly. My schedule this year is slightly down To try to tap into the former, Mark Heister bought eveningwear and separates from a year ago.” has developed a collection of microfi ber sep- from Catherine Regehr, a popular He said he will only hold trunk shows with specialty arates in black and white. A backless halter label in her store. stores that have a strong representation of his collec- top, wide pants, tunic and cropped pants are Drenning, who has been in tion — at least 12 or 15 styles. When he does do a trunk among the offerings, which will wholesale business for 30 years, said busi- show, Agostino tries to distinguish himself from his from $150 to $400. ness is strong, due largely to her competitors by sending handwritten invitations to spe- At Sansappelle, new owner Margo Murray, predominantly wealthy clientele. cial customers. In addition, instead of just showing up who bought the company in February, is trying “My customers are very wealthy and and greeting shoppers, he will host a tea, breakfast or to spruce up its image. Decreasing the number wealthy people don’t change their ways. an intimate formal fashion show in the store, he said. of trunks shows is part of her new strategy. [When times are tough], they might not Agostino has the luxury of being able to glean in- “There’s nothing special about them any- buy a new airplane or a Mercedes, but formation from women who shop in his store, which more,” Murray said. “We’re not going to do that doesn’t affect their clothing buy.” lessens the need to do the meet-and-greet in other peo- as many. We’re going to take control. They Joan and Jack Stanton, owners of Ruby, a ple’s shops. For instance, when he noticed more young can be expensive and time-consuming.” SoHo store here that specializes in vintage women in his store were asking for dresses with sleeves, Some retailers are trying to come up clothes but also offers some contemporary he responded by doubling that style in his collection. with fresh ideas to replace trunk shows pieces, said they were searching for pieces Agostino said he thinks he could enlighten buyers — like hosting suit parties that show off that look vintage. At their by-appointment- with such insight. “Unfortunately, retailers don’t use a variety of labels — to get existing and only store, customers include high-profi le Sansappelle saw my [retail] background and my knowledge,” he said. new customers into their stores, she designers and fashion editors — people interest in gowns. “My buyers feel they wrote the book on everything.” said. That is the type of event Murray who appreciate the workmanship often Another way he offsets the need for trunk shows is would be more inclined to get involved seen in vintage garments, they said. having an atelier in Bryn Mawr, where he designs cus- with than a trunk show, she said. The Stantons were especially interested in tomized pieces on a regular basis. “We’re able to turn Sansappelle aims to drum up sales for its fi nding more formal dresses, but didn’t have any luck things around quickly,” said Agostino. customized clothing, which is made at its Oak Street at the Essex House. One of the downsides of trunk shows for customers headquarters, Murray added. The company also has a “My customer is looking for something special,” is the lag time between placing an order and receiving by-appointment-only store there. said Joan Stanton, noting customers must have an ap- the outfi t, said Linda Heister, vice president of sales and Murray is trying to rev up business by sourcing pointment for the 70 Spring Street store. marketing at Mark Heister, another show resource. fabrics from new vendors, using different embellish- — R.F. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Nili Lotan Breaks Ground Museum Takes Close Look With First Shop in TriBeCa At the Shape of Fashion n their fall collections, NEW YORK — Like much of what she does, parachute silk will look more like an art in- Imany designers experi- designer Nili Lotan’s decision to open her fi rst stallation than the dressing rooms they are. mented with proportions to store next month in TriBeCa stemmed from Handblown white glass light fi xtures will hang create new shapes. Perfect her own intuition. from the ceiling, and video art will be project- timing, it would seem, for Lotan, a TriBeCa resident, spotted the va- ed onto the walls. The emphasis of the ambi- the Los Angeles County cant 2,400-square-foot store at 188 Duane Street ence will be on art and music, not fashion. Museum of Art’s newest ex- while walking her daughter to school one Her unusual aesthetic is something she de- hibition “Breaking the Mode: morning in February. She had never thought veloped while working at Adrienne Vittadini, Contemporary Fashion From about opening a store, but saw the space and Liz Claiborne, Ralph Lauren and Nautica be- the Permanent Collection.” knew immediately she had to have it. fore going out on her own. Curated by LACMA’s By March, she and her staff, which has in- “I’ve been doing this for 26 years. I have Costume and Textiles creased to nine from two a year ago, started using got to have a reason to do what I do. It is very Department senior curator the lower fl oor of the two-fl oor space as an offi ce, challenging to have your own business and do and department head Sharon showroom and atelier. Lotan expects to open the it,” she said. “The thing that gets me going is S. Takeda and curator Kaye store during the second week of September but to have all the freedom to do what I want to.” D. Spilker, the show exam- an exact date has not yet been set. Part of that creative freedom involves using ines the evolution of shapes The store is only one new venture for Lotan, a group of Bedouin craftswomen in southern and surfaces of fashion dur- Issey Miyake’s fall 1994 dress made from however. The others include an exclusive Israel to incorporate their embroidery into her ing the past 25 years, and ex- heat-set pleated polyester. men’s shirt collection for Fred Segal, an exclu- work. Ruth Dayan, the wife of one of Israel’s plores how designers during sive dress collection for Scoop, a girls’ outer- founders, helped Lotan, a native of Israel, to the Eighties and Nineties challenged and wear collection to be sold at the new store and fi nd the women who live in Segeu Shalom. In redefi ned Fifties’ fashion techniques. e-commerce through her Web site, nililotan. the Fifties, Dayan established Maskit, a move- “Construction techniques and materials com, that will include more affordable items ment that encouraged immigrants to try to have changed quite a bit since the Eighties,” that will be available solely online. Her spring preserve their cultures through jewelry, weav- Spilker said. “Things that were radical back collection is more defi ned, due in part to em- ing and embroidery. By the Sixties, Maskit in 1980 are quite commonplace today, and broidery and other artistic touches provided by had hundreds of women in Jordan and Gaza many of the pieces in the exhibit show this.” craftswomen in south- The exhibit, which runs from Sept. 17 to ern Israel. Combined, Jan. 7, culls from the museum’s permanent Lotan hopes these el- fashion collection and the 130 pieces on ements will lead to a show feature about 40 designers, includ- “breakthrough season” ing works from Jean Paul Gaultier, Martin that helps her land in Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Azzedine Alaïa, more high-end stores. Hussein Chalayan, Christian Lacroix, Hervé “The beauty of being Léger and Alexander McQueen. on your own is evolving To underscore just how much garment con- with your own intuition struction and surface textures have altered, and aesthetic,” Lotan many of the looks will be juxtaposed with vin- said. tage pieces by legendary designers such as During a visit to the Charles James, Gilbert Adrian and Christian boutique last week, car- Dior. For instance, Issey Miyake’s pleated plis- penters were busy in- sé pieces are displayed with Mariano Fortuny stalling Plexiglas planks Delphos dresses, made between 1907 and 1940, to provide shoppers or a deconstructed Martin Margiela jacket with a bird’s-eye view of is set against a Christian Dior suit from the Hussein Chalayan’s Lotan and her employ- Fifties replete with boning and padding. spring 2002 cotton ees at work. The low-key Then there are designers who reference dress with metal neighborhood calls for a the past, such as Vivienne Westwood in her zipper details. more approachable en- Eighties Mini-Crini collection, or Christopher vironment — something Bailey’s cropped trenchcoat for a 2003 Lotan plans to embrace Burberry collection, which loosely resembles World War I offi cer coats. from Day One. Rather The show also aims to highlight how much innovation in fabrics has con- than hire a store man- tributed to changes in fashion. Where once the construction would give a ager right off the bat, body shape, the reverse is now often the case, and designers use innova- she plans to greet and tive fabrics to make their statements, such as Issey Miyake who created a assist customers herself dress made from heat-set pleated polyester in the mid-Nineties. to make them feel com- “Designers are not just making pretty things,” Takeda said. “They fortable and to better have ideas and have learned to create the very inventive forms.” understand their needs. — Marc Karimzadeh “The one thing I don’t like about high-end stores is you can feel so intimidated and some- times so poor. I want my store to be welcom- ing and very personal,” MARKET BASKET Lotan said. Nili Lotan wearing one of her machine-gun

The ultracurious printed blouses in her new store. CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY FEMALE DUCKIES: In just a few seasons, Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox will be allowed to walk and Daniel Silver have made their mark on New York’s men’s wear scene with downstairs to ask ques- whimsical clothes and offbeat cutting techniques. If all goes according to plan, tions and check out the work in progress. working side by side with Israeli workers, an women will be able to get some Duckie Brown of their own next year. At the “We make everything domestically. I’m not ideology Lotan relishes. Lotan visits the crafts- party to welcome new members to the Council of Fashion Designers of America trying to be this unreachable designer,” she women in Segeu Shalom every two months or last week, Cox disclosed that the two are mulling over a move into women’s wear said. “I want to design some things that most so, bringing them pieces to embellish. with a capsule collection for fall 2007. “It will include knitwear and tailored working women can afford.” She noted that she sold 200 units of a black- pieces,” Cox said. And it will likely be full of quirky surprises, given the pair’s Jackets made up the bulk of her collection and-white printed dress they embroidered in penchant for unusual details. “We’re thinking about it,” he said. when she started her business in 2003, but she two weeks. But immediate reorders are not an has since broadened her range to include every- option, since their work is so labor-intensive. VALLEY AFTER HOURS: Most designers will want to plan a free weekend or two thing from bikinis to evening gowns. Dresses ac- “Most of the profi t is theirs. These women once next month’s 7th on Sixth shows are over. But Alvin Valley has already count for 60 percent of the 48 fall offerings, which do not have an opportunity to do anything lined up his next act: designing the uniforms for 7 Square, a modern chop wholesale from $85 for cotton shorts to $650 for a else,” she said. “This gives them impact on an house scheduled to open in October. He will suit up 25 servers, hostesses and coat with silver buttons handmade in Santa Fe. international level.” bartenders. “I just do things intuitively — not because Lotan, who once served in the Israeli army, Glen Coben has designed the space at 224 West 49th Street. I was reading something somewhere or be- has addressed her urge to have some sort of “We wanted to be close to Condé Nast and other publications to attract a cause someone told me that’s what I should political expression in her spring 2007 collec- different clientele,” a spokesman said. “[We thought] if they knew a designer is be doing,” Lotan said. tion by designing soft silk blouses and scarves doing the uniforms, they’d be more inclined to come.” To that end, another nontraditional ele- in an oil rig motif and a machine gun one. “I ment to her store will be an antique motorized guess it’s the cause of things and the result of RACING WITH MACKIE: Bob Mackie will be designing T-shirts to be worn by the dry cleaners’ rack that will hang in the win- things,” she said. “It can just be a reason for Continuum Health Partners Inc. Cancer Centers’ team at New York’s Race for the dow, displaying a few items from her collec- people to think. I don’t want to say anything. I Cure. The Sept. 10 5K run-walk will raise money for the Susan G. Komen Breast tion, a couple of books and CDs. In the rear of just want people to be aware.” Cancer Foundation. the store, two billowy columns made of white — Rosemary Feitelberg WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 11 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Hugo Boss Labor Dispute Continues in Georgia

By Ross Tucker NITE HERE, the union that represents 400,000 workers in Uthe textile, apparel, hotel and restaurant industries, and Hugo Boss Group are continuing talks over the terms of a new contract at a warehouse and distribution center in Midway, Ga. Union representatives from Hugo Boss’ Cleveland manufac- turing plant joined local union leaders and warehouse employ- ees at a press conference on Thursday in Savannah’s Johnson Square to show their support for workers who have been seeking a new contract since April. Union leaders are pushing for a more uniform wage increase over the course of the next three years and the creation of a pension plan. Harris Raynor, UNITE’s southern regional director, described the negotiations with German manufacturer Boss as the most un- usual in which he had ever been involved, since the amount of wage increases being sought by the two sides has been settled at $1.50. “We have agreed upon the total amount of wages over the three years of the contract, but not about how that money will be distributed over that three years,” said Raynor. Hugo Boss is proposing a 25 cent raise in the fi rst and third years of the contract and a $1 raise in the second year, accord- ing to Raynor. He and other union members claimed the 25 cent raises do little to offset basic increases in the cost of living, espe- cially with fuel prices showing no signs of retreating from record highs. They also contend the larger raise in the second year is a response to the planned opening of a Target distribution center in the area. Lorenzo Walker, union president for Local 2448 and a worker at the Savannah facility, said the 25 cent raises were the same they were offered in their fi rst contract when the warehouse Jose Torres, a Hugo Boss opened in 2001. employee who works in the “They’ve gotta live and get to work and they’re just not mak- coat shop in Cleveland. ing it,” said Walker, who said the average hourly wage for each of the warehouse’s 80 employees is between $6 and $7 an hour. “The employees have made it very clear, they will take 50 cents raise each year.” should be treated fairly,” said Torres. “They’re just now opening their eyes and seeing More than half of the workers at the warehouse are union members. they’re not alone in this fi ght. Now, hopefully the message we bring down will moti- Jose Torres, a union member who works at Boss’ Cleveland facility, said workers at vate and help them fi ght better to get what they need.” his plant have a pension plan and make anywhere from $11.20 to $16 an hour. Torres Hugo Boss declined to comment on Monday. noted the Cleveland facility is larger, having both manufacturing and warehouse op- Negotiations between union representatives and Hugo Boss executives began in erations, and the majority of workers have been there between 10 and 15 years. The April. Those talks quickly fell apart and workers have been working without a con- starting wage in Cleveland is $10 an hour, according to Torres. tract since. In June, UNITE organized a series of protests at 12 stores in the U.S. and “We want to let them know here in Midway that they are a part of Hugo Boss and Canada selling Hugo Boss merchandise. APL, Con-way Unveil Freight Service Gov. Pataki Bolsters PL Logistics and Con-way Freight have part- “Customers told us there was really no good op- Anered to offer a service for shipments of goods tion between a full container load and air freight, Industry Task Force from China to the U.S. that are less than the size which is extremely reliable but 10 times as expen- of a standard container. sive,” said Zillalon. ALBANY, N.Y. — Gov. George E. Pataki has approved legis- The service, called OceanGuaranteed, offers an LCL shipments are often avoided because they lation giving the Department of Labor’s Apparel Industry alternative to air freight and eliminates some of generally require working with several freight-car- Task Force more power to enforce state labor laws. the risks associated with less-than-container load, rying organizations and multiple transfers of goods, The bill, which takes effect Dec. 16, will allow the task or LCL, shipments. Goods are shipped on APL according to Zillalon. Cargo might be mingled with force to seize goods in factories found in violation of labor vessels from Hong Kong, Shanghai and Shenzhen, other goods, a practice that raises security concerns laws. The legislation, sponsored by state Sen. Serphin China, to Los Angeles, where they are picked up and increases the likelihood of delays. Space on the Maltese (R.-C., Queens), also stipulates the Labor commis- by Con-way for domestic shipping. Any shipments ship may not be guaranteed and once the goods ar- sioner can require manufacturers to pay a surety bond based that fail to reach their destination by the service’s rive, there is a host of other issues that can prevent upon their past record of violations. The bond guarantees stated date receive a 20 percent discount. the goods from immediately being delivered. Air the workers’ wages or a fi ne can be paid in an amount up to Bill Zillalon, vice president of product develop- capacity is also often strained during peak season $2,500. ment at APL, said transportation consulting fi rm shipping months, according to Zillalon. The new law will also impose administrative penalties MergeGlobal was used to conduct market research “Typically, you have a third party that is a for- up to $250 for the fi rst violation and up to $500 for each sub- and identify common problems associated with warding operator that is contracting with an ocean sequent violation. The penalties are to be applied to the other services that offered LCL shipments. The carrier,” said Zillalon. “They may or may not have enforcement and administrative costs of the task force. research found that those opting to move goods by priority on the ship.” “There has been an explosion of illegal sweatshops plane often did so out of a need for reliable ser- APL has the advantage of being able to control throughout New York City and its boroughs,” Maltese said. vice rather than one for faster delivery. how goods are loaded onto its ships, making sure “Each sweatshop is a threat to the health and safety of the the OceanGuaranteed LCL shipments workers through its continuing violations of the child labor OceanGuaranteed will are loaded last in China and are fi rst off laws, minimum wage laws, OSHA regulations and fi re and launch in September. in Los Angeles. To allay security con- building codes.” cerns and the risk of goods being held The special task force was established in 1987 to inves- up in customs, Zillalon said APL will tigate and enforce garment industry factories that exploit keep customers that have been certi- workers by not complying with state labor laws. These so- fi ed by the Customs-Trade Partnership called sweatshops typically fail to pay proper minimum Against Terrorism separate from those wage or overtime, provide safe working conditions or pay that have not. APL and Con-way have taxes. also linked their computer systems to While apparel manufacturing in the state has declined ensure a smooth transfer of the goods dramatically over the last 25 years, there were still 34,000 from ship to truck. people legally employed in the sector as of January 2005, “By physically expediting the process according to the most recent annual report of the task on and off the vessel and coupling that force. with Con-way’s network, putting those Meanwhile, legislation to prevent the overnight locking- two pieces together takes variability out in of workers was vetoed by Pataki on the grounds that the of the process,” said Zillalon. state DOL said the practice was already prohibited by the Test shipments are under way and a federal Occupational Safety & Health Administration. The formal launch of the service is expected legislation was modeled on a law enacted in New York City to take place Sept. 5. last year.

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY — R.T. — Elizabeth Morrow 12 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 WWD.COM Jennings Resigns as SFA President

Continued from page one a title. It also seemed Frasch could have just as readily was the number-two executive next to chief executive become chief merchant. However, Frasch’s hands were offi cer Steven Sadove, who will assume responsibility tied for some time due to a non-compete agreement for the majority of Jennings’ direct reports. he had with his former employee, the Neiman Marcus The company has no plans to replace Jennings. His Group, owner of Bergdorf ’s. departure could pump up the role and profi le of Ron The appointments of Frasch and Jennings initially Frasch, who is SFAE’s vice chairman and chief mer- created confusion in the marketplace as to their respec- chant. tive roles. Analysts and vendors sensed a power struggle The 57-year-old Jennings joined Saks in February between the two and an organization that had too many 2004 after serving as president and managing director chiefs at the top. There has been ongoing speculation of Canada’s Holt Renfrew, where he successfully lifted about how the two would work together, and if one of the retailer’s image and performance through remodel- the executives would depart. ings, designer additions and splashy events. In recent months, Frasch has taken on a lower profi le At Saks, Jennings continued in the role of an im- at Saks, reporting to Jennings and working more behind presario of sorts, usually serving as the face of Saks by the scenes in the designer, contemporary and bridge launching special events, unveiling renovations and markets, trying to resuscitate the merchandising as Saks new restaurants at the store and kicking off the seasonal pursues its new strategy to broaden its appeal, win back campaigns. But he faced the tougher challenge of a com- customers and elevate sales and margins. pany that was already losing market share in a much On Monday, two sources indicated Jennings had been more competitive landscape than Canada, and suffer- looking for a job for months. “He’s a really nice guy, but ing from an identity crisis. He was recruited by SFAE’s was really unhappy and couldn’t stand the turmoil,” said former ceo, Fred Wilson, who himself was ousted in one New York retailer. January and replaced by Sadove, amid slumping sales Refl ecting on his tenure at SFA, Jennings noted in and profi ts. Brad Martin remains chairman of the par- a statement: “I will always value my time at Saks Fifth ent Saks Inc., but relinquished his Saks Inc. ceo post in Avenue and have great confi dence in the future of this January when Sadove stepped up and has hardly been legendary American brand.” visible at SFA since. Sadove said in his statement, “I respect Andrew’s When he joined Saks, Jennings was given the title of decision, and he has graciously agreed to a monthlong president and chief merchandising offi cer, but he was transition to make this a smooth and orderly process. shifted to president and chief operating offi cer, sending Andrew has made many contributions to SFAE which mixed signals to the marketplace. have helped position the company for renewed growth Just a month before Jennings came on board, Saks and profi tability. Andrew’s deep operating experience recruited Frasch to develop Saks’ international opera- and disciplined management style have made him a val- tions and private brands, although it appeared he was in ued colleague. We appreciate his contributions to the a holding pattern of sorts since few plans abroad were business and wish him the very best.” ever detailed and Saks would go on to kill its private “Andrew is charming and bright, and he did well Saks Fifth Avenue fl agship. label program (it has since brought it back). Considering before arriving at Saks, which was not a shining mo- Frasch’s ties to designers and former jobs as Bergdorf ment, but Saks has had some rough years and a lot has Goodman ceo and senior merchant at Neiman Marcus, not been done,” said one source who knows Jennings. ing systems, procedures and logistics, not to mention it was a peculiar assignment, one that didn’t even carry “There’s the need to rebuild the infrastructure, includ- having identity problems with the merchandise. With Andrew leaving, Ron Frasch may be able to shine. There won’t be any interference.” “Andrew is among the hardest-working retail execu- tives I know. He handwrote thank-you letters, he was always in the stores and he e-mailed those reporting to him on weekends,” said Hal Reiter, president and ceo of Herbert Mines Associates. “He’s got a solid foundation in merchandising and operations. He’s had experience as ceo several times.” Even before he arrived at Saks, Jennings was raising his profi le despite being based in Toronto. He often vis- ited stores and vendors in New York and attended a few fashion shows here, but more in Europe. A native of London, Jennings has a cordial but direct manner. He has about 32 years of experience in inter- national retailing and is regarded as a polished, albeit peripatetic, retail executive. From 1999 to 2004, he was president and managing director of Holt Renfrew Specialty Store Group, and deputy chairman of the Brown Thomas Specialty Store Group in Ireland. Before that, he was managing direc- tor of the House of Fraser department store chain in London, served as general manager and board member of Harrods in London and in various senior positions with specialty and department stores in South Africa Andrew Jennings Ron Frasch Steven Sadove including Stuttafords, Garlicks and Greatermans. His retail career started at Debenhams in London.

Mick Jagger IS TIME ON THEIR SIDE?: The Rolling Stones have overruled the maxim “live fast, die young” by performing well into their 60s, and their fan base — for better or worse — has followed Fashion Scoops suit. So, while Mick Jagger et. al. cavorted in skintight jeans, silver Dior Homme shirts and LA DOLCE VITA: Nello’s restaurant in Jamee nipped-in tailcoats at Twickenham Stadium this Southampton, N.Y., was transformed into a Gregory weekend, their fans cut less rakish fi gures. The veritable Dolce & Gabbana showroom Friday Stones’ peers streamed into the venue to see afternoon, complete with a leopard print the fi rst London performance of the Bigger Bang rug. The occasion? Jessica Seinfeld, Claude tour wearing more staid attire, including the Wasserstein and Stephanie Winston-Wolkoff were band’s tongue logo T-shirts. “The merchandise hosting a shopping luncheon and presentation is for everyone, from babies to granddads,” of the designers’ fall collection to benefi t said Rupert Meaker, art director of the Rolling Baby Buggy, Seinfeld’s nonprofi t. The crowd Stones merchandise. “Their music has spanned of well-heeled Hamptons regulars dove into many people’s lifetimes.” Other clothing spotted the racks of ruched dresses, shearling jackets on concert-goers was fi t more for a Florida and curve-hugging bustiers. “This is nuts,” retirement community, and included roomy cotton exclaimed Jamee Gregory as she surveyed the shorts and stretch-waist slacks. But with ticket scene. After many credit cards were swiped prices running up to $285, the band must have and Bellinis sipped, the guests, including been more than happy to have the silver dollar Stephanie Seymour, Samantha Boardman, Cosima behind them: Tickets on the Web site belonging Pavoncelli, Heather Mnuchin and Ali Wentworth, to SAGA magazine, a British title for the over-50 found their seats on the outdoor patio for lunch Cosima set, proved so popular they sold out within days. A and to take in the fashion show. Pavoncelli spokesman for Jagger declined to comment. PHOTOS BY PATRICK MCMULLAN/PMC PATRICK PHOTOS BY PHOTO BY MJ KIM/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 13 WWD.COM Chicago Looks to Boost Fashion Cred By Beth Wilson CHICAGO — Can the Windy City improve its fashion reputation and keep design talent from fleeing to the coasts? Chicago Mayor Richard M. Daley thinks so. Daley has put his clout and re- sources behind boosting the city’s fashion and retail presence with a trio of re- cent initiatives — creating a Chicago Fashion Advisory Council, naming a full-time Director of Fashion Arts and Events and growing Fashion Focus 2006, a 10-day fall fashion festival of fashion events, runway shows and seminars. “Over the last several years, Chicago has begun to emerge as a center of creativ- ity in fashion design,” Daley said. “More and more designers are setting up shop here, rather than rushing off to New York.” Keeping fashion designers local adds a certain élan and elevates the city’s economy, he said. “They add excitement and fl air,” Daley said. “They attract attention from around the nation and around the world. And they create jobs.” Dorothy Fuller, president of the Apparel Industry Board Inc., said that accord- ing to a study by World Business Chicago, about 16,000 people are employed in the apparel industry in Chicago. They work for a variety of manufacturers and designers of uniforms and sportswear, as well as children’s apparel and women’s eveningwear, she said. Over the years, Chicago has changed from a hub for some 200 women’s wear manufacturers that operated factories in the Fifties (Henry-Lee & Co. is one of the sole survivors) to the home of dozens and dozens of smaller entrepreneurial businesses today. “There are more young designers than I’ve been aware of in business in Chicago,” Fuller said. “There really does seem to be a renaissance in the industry. There are lots of new ideas, new designers, new talent, new excitement.” In fact, the Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs has identifi ed more than 200 independent local designers of women’s and men’s apparel, children’s apparel and accessories. Most cannot afford to go offshore, Fuller said, and produce in and around Chicago. The retail industry, meanwhile, also continues to thrive. For example, there are more than 80 independently owned boutiques in the city’s hip Wicker Park/ Bucktown area, according to the Wicker Park/Bucktown Chamber of Commerce. And North Michigan Avenue alone has 3.3 million square feet of retail space, ac- Runway looks from cording to the Greater North Michigan Avenue Association. Michelle Tan and Daley has asked the Fashion Advisory Council, a collection of 19 veteran and Orlando Espinoza emerging designers, retailers and fashion industry leaders, to look into ways to from last year’s Gen consolidate, centralize and build local industry resources, retain and support new Art’s Fresh Faces in and established designers and help design students as they transition from school Fashion event. to career. “With four college fashion design programs, Chicago is continu- ally being presented with new talent,” said Melissa Turner, the city’s new Director of Fashion Arts and Events. “Designers are among our city’s great cultural assets.” Orlando Espinoza, who lived in Los Angeles for some 30 years working as an apparel designer before moving to Chicago six years ago, agrees. Espinoza, who cochairs the Fashion Advisory Council, believes Chicago will become a force to be reckoned with now that its designers have come together. “The opportunity here is unlimited for aspiring and veteran design- ers but it will take time for people to realize this,” he said. “They think it’s the Midwest and people have the stereotype that fashion cannot exist here. It’s just a matter of time before you see things fall into place and people will become excited by what we’re trying to do.” Before the council was created, most designers worked on their own with little networking, he said. “We never integrated,” Espinoza GOES EVERYWHERE YOU GO. explained. “We were scattered. There are a lot of people in the in- dustry here, but nobody knew who was who. Now we feel we have enough ammunition to make an impact. Once we make some prog- ress, we’re going to convince everyone that we can make this city stand out not only nationally but internationally.” Specifi cally, the council plans to oversee construction of a city fashion Web site for the industry and consumers, coordinate busi- ness education programs for students and designers and connect manufacturers, sales reps and designers, Turner said. “We want to keep those skilled workers here and in business,” said Turner, who earned a law degree and bachelor’s degree in fash- ion and marketing and has worked with Gen Art Chicago, the Chicago Merchandise Mart’s Fashion Offi ce and the Chicago Offi ce of Tourism. Chicago has much to gain by ensuring this segment of local com- merce remains healthy. Get all of this and so much more. “There’s a huge retail sector here,” Turner noted, “and shopping is the number-one tourist activity in Chicago.” To promote both retail and fashion, the city last year hosted its • 5 days a week Monday through Friday fi rst annual fall fashion festival, called Fashion Focus. Highlights included Gen Art Chicago’s Fresh Faces in Fashion; the unveiling of • Morning hand-delivery* Marshall Field’s Chicago Designer Boutique, which featured work • Color photographs from local designers; projects involving the city’s design students, and an assortment of industry seminars and events. • WWDSCOOP (4 issues per year) “The response to Fashion Focus was just overwhelmingly posi- tive,” Turner said. In particular, the industry seminars address- • Spring and Fall issues of WWD The Magazine ing building and fi nancing a design business sold out. “They were packed with students and young designers,” she said. “The demand • Annual market supplements for that kind of information was huge.” The city plans to expand the 2006 festival, which runs from Sept. 20 to Oct. 1, to include more, larger seminars, more fashion shows such as the Apparel Industry Board’s “Chicago Is…Red Hot!” as well as including Gen Art Chicago’s Fresh Faces in Fashion and the Subscribe to WWD today! opening of a new Chicago Designer Boutique at what will then be Simply call 1-800-289-0273 or 1-818-487-4526. the Marshall Field’s fl agship converted to Macy’s nameplate. Turner, meanwhile, has been impressed by the number of fash- You can also subscribe online at www.subnow.com/wd/ad ion industry insiders, from business owners to stylists and photogra- phers, offering their services pro bono or at reduced rates. *Buildings in NYC with delivery access only. “There’s overwhelming support from this industry from every angle,” she said. 14 WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 WWD.COM Buyers Laud CPH Formula of Trends at a Price

By Emilie Marsh here is very different from Californian style because of minimalist looks, volu- COPENHAGEN — Scandinavian design minous forms and high waists, but the proved itself to be popular at the CPH [California] customers love it.” Vision trade fair, where buyers lauded Pedersen picked up styles from Baum the labels on display for their style and und Pferdgarten, Thelin and Wings by affordability. Vadumsrum, to name a few. The salon, held here Aug. 10-13, show- Buyers agreed denim brands continue cased a large number of new designers to be one of the show’s greatest lures. who played with shapes such as oversize “There are very strong denim labels dresses in somber hues worn loose or from Scandinavia,” said Laurent Roure, cinched at the waist. Ecological materi- co-owner of London’s Bread & Honey, als such as bamboo and fabrics made which sells men and women’s contem- from recycled plastic bottles refl ected the porary fashion. “Shapely forms, such as Nordic love of nature, while accessible bat-wing sleeves, is the counter balance price points were a hit with retailers. [to] skinny jeans.” “Buyers are in search of a fresh alter- While Sweden’s Acne and Nudie jeans native and labels from Scandinavia offer booths continued to create buzz with buy- stylish creation and a very good price ers, a handful of budding denim labels also level,” said Jan Busch Carlsen, the show’s made a noteworthy appearance. Sweden’s organizer. Dr. Denim Jeansmakers, Pace and Julian Reasonable prices had retailers, Red Jeans offered cutting edge shapes, who generally said they were increas- while Denmark’s Rand, Claes Göran and ing their budgets slightly over last year, Keir were among new arrivals. opting to do some on-the-spot spending. As skinny jeans have been a Swedish While the recent terror threats, which staple since 1998, fashionistas here are crippled London’s airports, meant only already on to the next big thing, such as a small number of U.K. buyers made it skinny fi ts that soar above the navel and to the show, retailers from Scandinavia, the “carrot fi t,” a style that hangs loose the U.S., Germany, The Netherlands and at the thighs and tight around the ankles. Japan were out in force. While the “carrot” may be a hard sell for retailers outside of Scandinavia, exhibi- tors at the show believe that much like Buyers are in search ultratight jeans today, the shape will one day become a wardrobe staple. of“ a fresh alternative and “We are always looking for interest- ing forms and shapes,” said Pernille labels from Scandinavia Schwarz, the designer behind Won Hundred, Copenhagen’s budding contem- offer stylish creation and porary denim and fashion brand. Taking her inspiration from the fi lm a very good price level. noir era, Won Hundred’s collection is made up of clean looks and avant-garde — Jan Busch Carlsen, CPH Vision” shapes. Won Hundred’s trenchcoat-cum- cape was a bestseller at the show, while Attendance rose 9 percent over the Stockholm-based Hope played with vari- 2005 session to 23,704 visitors, while 293 ations of cotton peacoats with half hoods exhibitors from Europe, the U.S. and and exaggerated pockets paired over a Japan were selected for the show. denim jumpsuit averaging 120 euros, or The increased interest mirrors the up- $153 at current exchange, wholesale. swing in Denmark’s fashion industry. After “The theme comes from workwear several years of a gradual market penetra- and old uniforms,” said Ann Ringstrand, tion and an injection of adrenalin in the designer and owner of Hope, which youth fashion scene, Denmark’s fashion opened its fi rst location in Stockholm in market has recently claimed fourth place May. “Fashion is heading for a more uni- in the country’s exports and is ranked just fi ed look, wearing multiple pieces in the before furniture and design. same fabric.” “The total population in Scandinavia is Sweden’s Whyred is also expand- only approximately 20 million, so we can- ing its retail reach with a second loca- not depend on the home market,” Carlsen tion in Stockholm expected to open in said. “It is essential for brands to export.” September. The ubercool collection is a Underscoring Denmark’s enthusiasm favorite among stylish Swedes. A cropped for fashion, the country’s Princess Mary jacket with short sleeves in a vivid blue combed through the salon’s aisles, stop- tone that wholesales for 196 euros, or ping to chat with those showing their col- $250, was a hot seller at the show. lections. She also presented an award to “Swedish brands are gaining impor- the winner of Designers Nest, a fashion tant attention from international buy- show of selected budding designers from ers,” said Martin Stgöberg, president of Scandinavia’s leading design schools. Whyred, adding the brand, which is sold Retailers lauded the country’s new- worldwide including through Fred Segal found fashion fervor. in the U.S., doubled its sales at the show “There is a noted overall improve- year-on-year. ment in quality,” said Terry Ellis, chief Scandinavian knitwear novelties also buyer for the London offi ce of Tokyo’s dotted the fl oor. Sweden’s Dagmar of- Beams stores, who placed orders with fered intricate hand-crafted needlework, Ann Hagen, Baum und Pferdgarten and while Denmark’s Iben Høj showed a deli- Iben Hoj. “Fabrics are more interesting cate array of high-end cashmere and silk and styles have evolved.” knitwear creations. Charlotte de Staël, owner of Shine, “People think of knitwear as being a concept store in Trondheim, Norway, thick and heavy, but I work to make it said, “There is a revival in Scandinavian delicate and weightless,” said Høj, of fashion. Brands were too typically Nordic her eponymous label. A beige linen and [in the past, whereas] now they are set- viscose dress for 130 euros, or $166, at ting trends across the globe. What was wholesale was a popular choice. once over-the-top Bohemian chic is now Meanwhile, Denmark’s Helle much more minimalist, with somber Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten are colors and interesting forms for a much Clockwise from top left: Knitwear by Iben Høj; a summer look by Denmark’s Won Hundred; a among the country’s most popular design- more chic graphic look.” summer fashion by Sweden’s Hope, and a style from Denmark’s Baum und Pferdgarten. ers. Their brand, Baum und Pferdgarten, De Staël said skinny pants paired with with Denmark’s Arena CPH, whose col- orders with Swedish brands such as is said to be a favorite of Princess Mary. voluminous blouses and dresses are key lection of intricate silver and gold ultra- Whyred, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and “We were extremely inspired by men’s directions for next summer and placed stylish pieces is carried by Scandinavia’s Acne Jeans. “There is such a creative [fashion], but with feminine detailing,” orders with Baum und Pferdgarten, leading concept stores. vibe with styles and very affordable pric- said Baumgarten, who presented the col- Whyred, Hope and Won Hundred. She “Scandinavian labels are on fi re,” said es it makes it hard to choose.” lection at CPH Vision, as well as on the also noted that Scandinavian accesso- Jennifer Mankins, owner of Bird, a 1,000- Lehang Pedersen, owner of Danmark, catwalk during Copenhagen’s fashion ries, especially jewelry, are favorites of square-foot contemporary women’s fash- a Los Angeles-based shop that offers a se- week, which ran simultaneously with the Nordic fashion lovers and placed orders ion boutique in Brooklyn, who placed lection of Danish labels, said, “The style trade show. WWD, TUESDAY, AUGUST 22, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

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BASE + COMMISSION Please call Geri (212) 840-7070 Associate Designer with min 5 yrs exp. Edi Coordinator Fax or e-mail resume Attn Rose: Please e-mail: [email protected] or Candidate must have overseas and Major apparel co seeks Edi coordinator, F: 212 944-8409 E: [email protected] Fax resume to: (212) 400-8602 technical knowledge as well as trend strong computer skills,exp a must. PATTERN/SAMPLES awareness. Must be proficient in Contact [email protected] SAMPLE CUTTER Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Illustrator/ Photoshop. CAD knowledge Fashion Designer seeks exp’d Sample work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 welcomed. Sweater knowledge a plus. Cutter with knowledge in grading Excellent opportunity . Exec Assist $60-70K and custom couture eveningwear. PATTERNS / SAMPLES / PROD’N. Fax resumes to: 212-221-3726 5 Yrs Exp. Articulate, Proficient Please call (347) 439-5200 www.blockheadwear.com HK office w/factory in DongGuan, China. In MS Office. 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TERRY J. LUNDGREN DONATELLA VERSACE MAUREEN CHIQUET ROSS LEVINSOHN Chairman, President and CEO Vice Chairman and Creative Director President and COO President Federated Department Stores Inc. Gianni Versace SpA Chanel Inc. Fox Interactive Media

JOHN FLEMING TOM DOCTOROFF GELA NASH-TAYLOR STEPHEN I. SADOVE Executive Vice President and CMO CEO, Greater China Co-Founder and Co-Designer CEO Wal-Mart Stores JWT Juicy Couture Inc. Saks Inc.

OTHER SPEAKERS INCLUDE CHRIS ANDERSON, Editor in Chief, WIRED Magazine | ADRIENNE MA, President, Joyce Boutique Ltd. ARTHUR C. MARTINEZ, Chairman and CEO Emeritus, Sears, Roebuck and Co.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 866.211.1628 OR E-MAIL [email protected]

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