STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

CirBlackcumnavigation Sea

A VOYAGE FROM PAST TO PRESENT

May 27 to June 9, 2014

a program of the stanford alumni association

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

Every summer, Turks, Georgians, Russians, Ukrainians and Bulgarians flock to the sunny shores of the Black Sea to frolic in its deep-blue waters, belying the image of darkness and turbulence many Westerners have of this region. Yet, as the Black Sea grows as a popular tourist destination, it’s true that the lands surrounding this major crossroad of the ancient world have indeed seen their share of strife— during the Crimean War and World Wars I and II, as well as more recently during the dispute over . As we circumnavigate this historic body of water, Professor Gail Lapidus will put into context for us this complex region and the vastly different countries and cultures that have coexisted around its shores for millennia. Join us!

Brett S. Thompson, ’83, Director, Stanford Travel/Study Topkapi palace, istanbul

Highlights VIEW Istanbul’s incompa- SEE where Stalin, Churchill Listen to the music of VISIT the battlefield in Black Sea rable Hagia Sophia and and Roosevelt gathered to the balalaika in Sevastopol Ukraine’s Balaklava Valley Circumnavigation Blue Mosque, famous for reconfigure Europe’s borders and the lilting voices of the where the Charge of the its piercingly blue Iznik tiles. at the end of WWII at Yalta’s a cappella choir of Odessa’s Light Brigade inspired the Livadia Palace. Uspensky Cathedral. Tennyson poem about the Crimean War.

COVER: Swallow’s Nest near Yalta

Blue Mosque, ISTANBUL

Stanford Faculty Leader

DR. GAIL LAPIDUS, a senior fellow emerita at the Institute for International Studies at Stanford University, is a frequent visitor to Russia, the Caucasus and Central Asia, and has had a long-standing interest in ethno-political conflicts in the former USSR and in nation- and state-building in the post- Soviet states. She is also the author of numerous books and articles on Soviet and post-Soviet politics, society and foreign policy. Prior to joining the Stanford faculty, she was a professor of political science and sociology at UC-Berkeley from 1976 to 1994, where she directed the Center for Slavic and East European Studies as well as the Berkeley-Stanford Program in Soviet and Post-Soviet Studies. She has “[Gail was the] served as president of the American Association for the Advancement of Slavic Studies and as chair of the Social Science Research Council’s Joint Committee on Soviet Studies. Dr. Lapidus has also best Stanford received fellowships from the Kennan Institute in Washington, D.C.; the Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences in Palo Alto, California; and the Harriman Institute at Columbia University in New professor York City. She earned her doctorate at Harvard University. we’ve had: vibrant, Harvard Faculty Leader

Joining us from Harvard University is NICHOLAS BURNS, director of the Future of Diplomacy intense, Project and faculty chair for the Programs on the Middle East and on and South Asia. From 1990 always to 1995 he served on the National Security Council as Senior Director for Russia, Ukraine, and Eurasia Affairs and as Special Assistant to President Clinton. He was also Director for Soviet Affairs under available.” President George H.W. Bush. Prior to coming to Harvard, Burns spent 27 years in the U.S. Foreign Service where he served as U.S. Ambassador to NATO (2001–2005) and to Greece (1997–2001). Deanne Wilson, ’66, Trans-Siberia by R a il , 2 012

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

SIGN UP Reservation Form ONLINE! Black Sea Circumnavigation I/We have read the Terms and Conditions for the program and agree to them. May 27 to June 9, 2014 Signature ______

If this is a reservation for one person, please indicate: I wish to have single accommodations. OR I plan to share accommodations with ______OR I’d like to know about possible roommates. MR. / MRS. / MS. MISS / DR. / PROF. Category Preference: NAME AGE STANFORD CLASS 1st choice: ______Twin Double MR. / MRS. / MS. MISS / DR. / PROF. 2nd choice:______Twin Double NAME aGE STANFORD CLASS Here is my deposit of $______($1,000 per person) for ______space(s), plus $______($200 per person) for the Optional Post-trip Extension. ADDRESS Enclosed is my check (make payable to Stanford Alumni Association) OR Charge my deposit to my: Visa MasterCard American Express CITY / STATE / ZIP

CARD # EXPIRES HOME PHONE WORK PHONE

AUTHORIZED CARDHOLDER SIGNATURE DATE CELL PHONE Mail completed form to address on mail panel or fax to (650) 725-8675 or place your deposit online at alumni.stanford.edu/trip?blacksea2014. Please submit your reservation only once to avoid multiple charges to your account. EMAIL ADDRESS 11338 MOLDOVA U KRAINE Odessa R USSIA Crimean Peninsula

ROMANIA Sevastopol Yalta GRAND Bazaar, ISTANBUL B l a c k S e a Varna Nessebar Batumi BULGARIA Samsun Trabzon Istanbul Amasya T URKEY Chersonesus, UKRAINE

Tonight, gather for the captain’s independently. This afternoon, backdrop, Sochi is the site of Itinerary welcome reception and dinner. visit the Hagia Sophia Museum, the XXII Olympic Winter Games VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) once a Byzantine church, which and will host several matches shows influences of Georgian during soccer’s 2018 World Tuesday & Wednesday, Saturday, May 31 and Seljuk design. Back aboard Cup. Visit the modest dacha of May 27 & 28 Samsun / Amasya our ship, scan the waters of the former Soviet Communist Party Depart U.S. / Dock in Samsun and visit the Istanbul, Turkey Black Sea and conjure up images Secretary and infamous dictator Depart on an overnight flight inland town of Amasya—two of Medea and the Golden Fleece Joseph Stalin—a surprisingly to Istanbul. Upon arrival on sites that were significant in playing out their legendary tale. simple structure set on the Turkish history. In Samsun, Wednesday, transfer to the Hilton VARIETY VOYAGER (B,D) grounds of the Zelyonaya Roscha Hotel overlooking the Bosphorus Ataturk, the father of modern Sanatorium, a location Stalin Strait. Gather this evening for Turkey, planned the strategy for Monday, June 2 chose for its pristine environment. a welcome orientation and the birth of the new republic in Batumi, Georgia Then drive into the mountains to the 1920s. Amasya has an even Arrive in Batumi, a seaport on reception. HILTON ISTANBUL HOTEL Russia’s “Tea Capital” where we longer history as the former the Black Sea coast of Georgia visit the Dagomys Tea Plantation. Thursday, May 29 capital of the ancient Pontic that lies at the northern edge of Learn about tea cultivation Istanbul Kingdom and birthplace of the the humid subtropical zone. At and taste a variety of infusions Spend the day exploring this Greek historian Strabo. Tucked the Batumi Botanical Garden, while enjoying songs by local deep in a dramatic gorge and begun in the 1880s and opened intriguing city, which sits astride musicians. VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) Europe and Asia on either side isolated from outsiders, Amasya in 1912, admire lush plantings of the swiftly flowing Bosphorus. is replete with rock-hewn tombs, from nine different floristic Wednesday, June 4 Choose between two equally classical wooden mansions, and sectors, including the Himalayan, Yalta, Ukr aine fascinating city tours: (1) the Seljuk and Ottoman monuments. Mediterranean and South Disembark in historic Yalta, Topkapi Palace, Hippodrome, VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) American regions. Enjoy a lunch set on the southern tip of the Blue Mosque and Grand of delicious Georgian cuisine Crimean Peninsula. This popular Bazaar; or (2) the Hagia Sophia, Sunday, June 1 accompanied by a children’s 19th-century resort entered the Archaeological Museum, Rustem Trabzon folkloric performance. Then in global spotlight when Stalin, Pasha Mosque and Spice Bazaar. Upon arrival in Trabzon, travel to nearby Adjara visit the Gonio Roosevelt and Churchill met here This evening embark Variety the spectacularly situated Greek Fortress, a 2nd-century Roman in February of 1945 to determine Voyager and dine al fresco while Orthodox Monastery of the fortification and the largest in the fate of Europe after World War Virgin Mary (Sumela Monastery), cruising up the Bosphorus. Georgia. VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) II. Tour the Italian Renaissance- embedded in the Pontic VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) style Livadia Palace, venue for Mountains just outside the city. Tuesday, June 3 the Yalta Conference and former Friday, May 30 Our steep ascent is rewarded Sochi, Russia summer home of the Russian At Sea with time to view the monastery’s Today explore Russia’s largest tsar, Alexander II. Enjoy lunch and Relax aboard ship as we cruise colorful frescoes, some dating resort city. Sprawling 90 miles a lively folkloric show overlooking along the Black Sea coast, from the 9th century. Return to along the shores of the Black the iconic Swallow’s Nest, a enjoying the start of our education Trabzon to explore the historic Sea with the snow-capped turreted white-stone castle. program and/or a tour of the ship. center and bazaar and have lunch Caucasus Mountains as a Then continue to Vorontsov GRAND Bazaar, ISTANBUL

Chersonesus, UKRAINE caption Vorontsov Palace, Crimea, Ukraine

Palace, a beautiful 19th-century Friday, June 6 Sunday, June 8 Cappadocia summer residence in the town of Odessa NeSsebar, Bulgaria Alupka that incorporates Tudor, Founded in the latter part of Nestled on a tiny spit of land, Post-trip Extension medieval and Byzantine features. the 18th century by Russia’s World Heritage-designated June 9 to 12 After dinner, stroll along the Catherine the Great, Odessa is Nessebar embraces a marvelous seafront promenade pulsating a city of resplendent mansions assemblage of 13th- and 14th- Fly to central Anatolia from with musicians, mimes, dancers, and fine old churches. Gaze century Byzantine churches Istanbul to explore the surreal circus acts—and of course, lively upon the Potemkin Steps, representing the rich architectural surroundings of Cappadocia’s troglodyte villages and fairy audiences of locals. VARIETY famously depicted in Sergei heritage of the Eastern Orthodox chimneys. Be awed by the VOYAGER (B,L,D) Eisenstein’s classic 1925 silent world and an impressive number film, Battleship Potemkin. Stroll of 18th- and 19th-century Byzantine cave churches Thursday, June 5 along the promenade to the vernacular wooden houses. This of Goreme Valley, plus the Sevastopol stunning Hapsburg-style opera evening, cruise to Istanbul while underground city that sheltered Sevastopol was formerly a house and examine an exhibit of celebrating our travels at a festive persecuted Christians, tufa top-secret Soviet military zone rare Scythian gold in the Odessa farewell reception and dinner towers, ceramic artisans’ closed to visitors, but today Archaeological Museum. Enjoy onboard. VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) workshops and more. Our it’s possible for us to drive to some free time to have lunch and return flight to Istanbul the Balaklava Valley to see the to take a look around the heart Monday, June 9 connects with international sobering site where the Charge of Odessa. In the afternoon, hear Istanbul / U.S. flights home. Details and of the Light Brigade took place the choir perform at the Uspensky Disembark and transfer to the rates are listed on our website in 1854 and inspired Tennyson’s Cathedral, a unique Russo- airport for flights home. (B) and will be sent to confirmed famous poem. Visit the Panorama Byzantine architectural gem. travelers. Museum in Sevastopol that VARIETY VOYAGER (B,D) features epic scenes recreated Cappadocia, TURKEY from the city’s heroic, 349-day- Saturday, June 7 long defense during the Crimean Varna, Bulgaria War against the French, British In Varna, considered the and Ottomans. Then explore the summer capital of Bulgaria, 4th-century Greek archaeological marvel at the world-renowned ruins of Chersonesus, a World collection of Thracian gold from Heritage site. During lunch at a the 5th millennium B.C.E. in the waterfront restaurant, listen to Archaeological Museum and enjoy a balalaika, the quintessentially a performance of folk tunes in Russian stringed instrument. the museum’s Hall of Icons. Then VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) take a tour of the city, concluding with a visit to the imposing domed Cathedral of the Assumption, Varna’s principal landmark. VARIETY VOYAGER (B,L,D) Main Lounge DINING ROOM CATEGORY P CABIN

VarietyIsland SkyVoyager Program Cost*

Originally built in 1992 and refurbished and redecorated in 2010, Island Sky Taccommodateshe Variety Voyager all guests is a state-of-the-art in 57 outside suites, yacht each that affordingaccommodates sea views andRates elegant- are per person, based on double or single occupancy, justly furnished 72 passengers with a sitting in 36 roomcabins. area, Guests flat-screen will enjoy TV, hersafe, sleek mini-refrigerator lines and andas specified.an ample deck space, designed to the high standards of the finest pri- en suite bathroom with robe, slippers, hairdryer and fine toiletries. Several suites have Double Single vatelyprivate owned balconies. yachts. Spacious Cabins and and finely public decorated areas are public finished areas includewith lush a large loungeCateg ory Rate RATE** fabrics, fine marbles, luxurious Axminster carpeting and rich wood and elegant bar and a library. The dining room accommodates everyone at one paneling. All cabins feature two twin beds or a single double-sized C $9,990 $14,990 seating where house wine, beer and soft drinks are included at lunch and dinner. bed, en suite facilities with marble floors, individually controlled air- conditioningWi-fi access andis available TV/DVD. throughout There is an the Internet vessel (atcorner additional and access cost and to dependentCabin on Marina Deck with two oversized portholes, avg. 135 sq. ft. 24-hourupon satellite Wi-Fi reception).in the Lounge. The shipThroughout also includes the ship, a hairdresser, guests have onboard un- clinic and Oceans Lounge obstructeddoctor, elevator views serving of the allocean passenger and of decks,the ports top visited, deck with as wellJacuzzi, as the gym andB rear $10,790 $16,190 servicessun deck of with a friendly a bar. Islandand professional Sky is served crew by 75of 28.experienced There are officers oppor- and crew.Cabin on Marina Deck with two oversized portholes, avg. 170 sq. ft., tunities to dine both inside and on the deck and to enjoy the shaded or cabin on Riviera Deck with two windows, avg. 139 sq. ft. sunOCEANS deck DECK lounge bar, library, and the mini-spa with massage room, sauna, steam room and fitness equipment. A $11,690 ---

Cabin on Riviera Deck with two windows, avg. 172 sq. ft. 301 303 305 307

Horizons Dining Room P $12,790 --- 302 304 306 308

Deluxe cabin on Horizons Deck with two windows, 218 sq. ft. HORIZONS DECK Owner’s Suite $13,890 ---

201 203 205 207 209 211 213 215 Deluxe cabin on Horizons Deck with four windows, 324 sq. ft.

Riviera Lounge

202 204 206 208 210 212 214 *Association nonmembers add $200 per person. **Single accommodations are limited. RIVIERA DECK Flag: Greece / Length: 223 ft. / Beam: 38 ft. / Draft: 11.5 ft.

101101 103103 105105 107107 109109 Jade 111111 113113 Spa Suite

110110 112112 102102 108108 Library & 104104 106106 Internet Corner

MARINA DECK

Category C Category P Marina Deck. 129–145 sq.ft. depending on location, oversized twin Horizons Deck. 227–248 sq.ft. depending on location, double windows, portholes, twin beds or queen bed, shower. twin beds or queen bed (all cabins oer exible bedding conguration and 4 of the 7 include an extra sofa bed), shower. Category B Marina and Riviera Decks. 145–216 sq.ft. depending on location, Owner’s Suite oversized twin port holes (Marina Deck) or double windows (Riviera Horizons Deck. 292 sq.ft., four windows, twin beds or queen bed Deck), twin beds or queen bed (7 of the 11 cabins oer exible bedding (exible bedding conguration), shower. conguration), shower.

Category A Riviera Deck. 151–195 sq.ft. depending on location, double windows, twin beds or queen bed (9 of the 11 cabins oer exible bedding conguration), shower.

Information Terms & Dates Conditions May 27 to June 9, 2014 (14 days)

Deposit & Final Payment Responsibility Size A $1,000 deposit is required to The Stanford Alumni Association, Limited to a total of 72 participants, including travelers from hold space for this program. An Stanford University and our Stanford and Harvard University alumni associations. additional $200 deposit is required operators act only as agents to hold space for the optional post- for the passenger with respect Included trip extension. Complete and return to transportation and ship 1 night of deluxe hotel accommodations 11-night cruise aboard the attached reservation form or arrangements and exercise every sign up online. Final payment is care possible in doing so. However, the Variety Voyager 12 breakfasts, 9 lunches and 11 dinners due 120 days prior to departure. we can assume no liability for Welcome and farewell receptions Wine, beer and soft drinks As a condition of participation, all injury, damage, loss, accident, with lunch and dinner aboard the Variety Voyager Bottled water confirmed participants are required delay or irregularity in connection on excursions Gratuities to porters, guides, drivers and ship to sign a Release of Liability. with the service of any automobile, crew for all group activities All tours and shore excursions as motorcoach, launch or any other Cancellations & Refunds conveyance used in carrying out described in the itinerary Transfers and baggage handling on Deposits and any payments are this program or for the acts or program arrival and departure days Port fees and embarkation refundable, less a $500-per- defaults of any company or taxes Minimal medical, accident and evacuation insurance person cancellation fee, until 120 person engaged in conveying the Educational program with lecture series and pre-departure days prior to departure. After that passenger or in carrying out the date, refunds can be made only if arrangements of the program. We materials, including recommended reading list, a selected book, the program is sold out and your cannot accept any responsibility for map and travel information Services of our professional tour place(s) can be resold, in which losses or additional expenses due manager to assist you throughout the program case a $1,000-per-person to delay or changes in air or other cancellation fee will apply. We services, sickness, weather, strike, CATEGORY P CABIN Not Included recommend trip-cancellation war, quarantine, force majeure or International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport and visa fees insurance; applications will be other causes beyond our control. sent to you. All such losses or expenses will Immunization costs Meals and beverages other than those have to be borne by the passenger specified as included Independent and private transfers Trip- Insurance as tour rates provide arrangements cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance Excess-baggage Stanford Travel/Study provides only for the time stated. We reserve charges Personal items such as internet access, telephone and all travelers who are U.S. or Cana- the right to make such alterations dian citizens with minimal medical, to this published itinerary as may fax calls, laundry and gratuities for nongroup services accident and evacuation coverage be deemed necessary. The right Double Single under our group-travel insurance is reserved to cancel any program Category Rate RATE** Air Arrangements policy. Our group policy is intended prior to departure in which case International and U.S. domestic airfare is not included in the to provide minimal levels of protec- the entire payment will be refunded program cost. Round-trip, economy-class airfare on Lufthansa tion while you are traveling on this without further obligation on our from San Francisco to Istanbul is approximately $1,100 as of July program. We strongly recommend part. The right is also reserved to that you subscribe to optional decline to accept or retain any 2013 and is subject to change without notice. Information on baggage and trip-cancellation person as a member of the recommended flight itineraries will be sent to confirmed participants. insurance. A brochure offering such program. No refund will be made insurance will be mailed with your for an unused portion of any tour Fuel Costs confirmation about one week after unless arrangements are made in In the uncertain, often volatile oil market of late, it is difficult to predict we receive your deposit. The prod- sufficient time to avoid penalties. fuel costs over the long term and, more specifically, at the time of uct offered in this brochure includes It is understood that the ship’s special benefits if you postmark ticket, when issued, shall constitute operation of this voyage. Our prices are based upon the prevailing your insurance payment within a the sole contract between the fuel rates at the time of brochure printing. While we will do everything specified window: 15 days of the passenger and the cruise possible to maintain our prices, if the fuel rates increase significantly, date listed on the confirmation letter company. Baggage is carried at the it may be necessary to institute a fuel surcharge. for the Waiver of Pre-existing Con- owner’s risk entirely. The airlines ditions and coverage for Financial concerned are not to be held Insolvency; 21 days for the Cancel responsible for any act, omission or WHAT TO EXPECT for Any Reason benefit. event during the time that passen- We consider this program to be moderately active with a full schedule gers are not onboard their plane or of excursions and lectures. Daily shore excursions involve one to Eligibility conveyance. Neither the Alumni three miles of walking. Some walking takes place at ancient sites, We encourage membership in Association, Stanford University where paths can be rocky and uneven. In some instances, such as the Alumni Association as the nor our operators accept liability for program cost for nonmembers any carrier’s cancellation penalty museums, guided tours require climbing up and down several flights is $200 more than the members’ incurred by the purchase of a of stairs, some of which may not have handrails and which may have price. Parents and their children nonrefundable ticket in connection high thresholds. In some buildings, elevators are not available. Some under 21 may travel on one with the tour. Program price is sites and museums do not allow coaches to pull up in front, thus membership. For more information based on rates in effect in July or to purchase a membership, visit 2013 and is subject to change requiring a several minutes’ walk to reach the entrance on foot. Our alumni.stanford.edu/goto/member- without notice to reflect fluctuations busy days are complemented by a relaxed pace onboard our ship, ship or call (650) 725-0692. in exchange rates, tariffs or fuel where we have an opportunity to enjoy lectures and leisure time. charges. Medical treatment and care may not always be available or up to U.S. standards. Participants must be physically fit, active and in California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 good health. We welcome travelers 15 years of age and older on

this program. © COPYRIGHT 2013 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Printed on recycled, FSC-certified paper in the U.S.

Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street P A I D Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford (650) 725-1093 Association

A VOYAGE FROM PAST TO PRESENT

May 27 to June 9, 2014

alumni.stanford.edu/goto/travelstudy

“A very rich program, both for the mind and the senses.” Elaine Knutsen, ’50, Black Sea Circumnavigation, 2007

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

a program of the stanford alumni association

Hagia Sophia, ISTANBUL