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WEEKEND ESCAPE Getting Dirt Under Their Sierra Bliss, Without Fingernails Wasn't the Motivation

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WEEKEND ESCAPE Getting Dirt Under Their Sierra Bliss, Without Fingernails Wasn't the Motivation sequoias on the western side of Camping doesn't get much the Sierra Nevada. cushier, but giving wimps a way to enjoy the outdoors without WEEKEND ESCAPE getting dirt under their Sierra bliss, without fingernails wasn't the motivation. roughing it The forest setting is rugged, About 10 years ago, Burr but the digs are not. Plump Hughes, a Memphis, Tenn., beds, clean linen, cozy tents businessman, launched himself and an on-site gourmet chef into a second career by getting beckon hike-in guests to this a master's degree in luxury camp. As the foothills yielded to the sustainable architecture at By Susan Spano, Times Staff Writer mountains, I turned south on Cambridge University in September 24, 2006 Generals Highway (California England. There, he learned 198) for about eight more miles. how to build structures that do NO pain, no gain. That's what as little damage as possible to people always say to get you to After that, I had my choice of the environment by grading to do something hard, like carry ways to reach the camp. The minimize erosion, building away 30 pounds of gear on your hard way: hiking 11 miles on from streams and burying back, sleep on the ground, eat the Twin Lakes Trail, starting septic tanks deep underground. freeze-dried food and go from Lodgepole Campground in Then Hughes decided to put without a bath. But if you had adjacent Sequoia National the knowledge to use by the chance to get into the Park. The easy way: 1 1/2 creating a wilderness resort. wilderness without such hassle miles on the Marvin Pass Trail, — be honest now — wouldn't which begins 10 miles down While planning, Hughes was you take it? Big Meadows Horse Corral drawn to the tent-camp Road. I took the easy way. phenomenon of the early 20th Some die-hard lovers of the century, when Americans great outdoors claim to The walk up a boulder-strewn vacationed in temporary appreciate the hardships of ridge though thick pine and fir enclaves in scenic places such backpacking. But I felt plenty was a good way to stretch my as Coronado Island near San appreciative when I heard I legs and get acclimated. The Diego. could sleep on clean sheets camp is pitched on a steep hill and eat gourmet meals at a at 8,200 feet above sea level. "Tents don't tear up the ground, new luxury tent camp in Giant Halfway up the mountainside is and people like to stay in them," Sequoia National Monument. the massive open-air wood said Hughes, a tall, courtly man dining pavilion and below it the with a thick Southern accent. Sequoia High Sierra Camp sits bathhouse with flush toilets and on 40 of the 49,000 acres of hot showers. He found further inspiration at private land that was the High Sierra camps in grandfathered into the The 36 tents, each outfitted Yosemite National Park. There monument. with two plump twin beds was a wonderful camaraderie covered in double-sheeted among the guests, mostly The last part of my drive in was duvets and Pendleton blankets, educated, older couples who along beautiful California 180, are in clusters. Graded gravel returned to the camps season which passed through Central paths connect everything. after season. "They hike during Valley orange groves on its way the day and get to know each toward the 200-foot-tall other over dinner," Hughes Wilderness beyond. Angeles, including Muldoon, of said. Tarzana, and his wife, Susan Big breakfast buffets are laid Hall. We hiked together for out in the morning. During the about three miles up 10,365- meal, a staff member comes by foot Mitchell Peak, snapped to find out what kind of pictures on the summit and got sandwich you want in your sack so involved in conversation on lunch, because it's presumed the way down that we took the most guests will head off on wrong trail and didn't notice for day hikes after breakfast. a mile. Dinners, a far cry from ramen Other nearby trails lead to noodles, are multi-course Rowell Meadow, Kanawyer Impressive views, menus affairs created by Ryan Solien, Gap, Mt. Maddox and Agnew who trained at the California Grove. For the ambitious, I spent two nights at Sequoia Culinary Institute and was a there's a 13-mile round trip High Sierra Camp a few weeks private chef to Bruce south to Seville Lake. after it opened Aug. 1, when Springsteen and Faith Hill. The management company menu on my first night started Delaware North was still with scallop carpaccio, followed Built to be eco-friendly working out the kinks. The by slow-cooked lamb shanks reservation clerk who booked on goat cheese risotto and OF course, you could spend my stay couldn't tell me how to crème brûlée for dessert. The the day reading in your canvas get here from Los Angeles. next night, it was brie samosas, tent. They have screen doors Topographical maps on the Caesar salad that Solien and see-through mesh panels website were unreadable. A prepared at the table, roast on all four sides, providing park ranger at Grant Grove duck and strawberry shortcake. mountain views but limited Visitor Center in nearby Kings privacy. They are roomy and Canyon National Park had Beer is available, as is wine, a comfortable, with concrete never heard of the new camp, red and a white by Charles floors, a table and chairs, and there were few signs for it Shaw, a.k.a. Two-Buck Chuck. lanterns and sealed canisters on the road. Consequently, The second night, Brian for stashing items that might many guests arrived miffed, but Muldoon, one of my attract field mice or bears. Burr and Suzanne Hughes tablemates, passed around a Organic toiletries, fresh towels were on hand to help them off bottle of finer red wine he and a basket for carrying them with their packs and offer a carried to the camp in his to the bathhouse are also welcome snack: mint tea and knapsack. provided. orange-spice cookies. It's all just as Hughes hoped — The beds present an open The heart of the camp is the a civilized, convivial air prevails. invitation to loll around, dining pavilion, which has big Guests talk about the hikes swaddled in good linen. Even in timber columns, round tables, a they took during the day, their summer, it gets cold after few space heaters, books, bad knees and bear encounters sunset at 8,200 feet, but I maps and a sitting area. But (though none had been spotted stayed toasty at night, thanks to people pull patio chairs to the in the camp). the thick bedding. edge of the hill, where there's a fire ring and view of Kings There were couples from After my visit, Hughes told me Canyon, and the Monarch Texas, Sacramento and Los he planned to install propane heaters and shades for privacy. precautions, it has less effect longer but faster to drive north Because many of the tents are on the land than the campers on Interstate 5 to California 99. a stiff hike to the bathhouse, and backpackers who scatter In Fresno, go east on California discouraging visits there in the throughout the wilderness, 180, to 198. Driving and middle of the night, he also often leaving traces of their parking directions are on the intends to add portable toilets in presence. camp's website. more remote parts of the camp next summer. "The impact here is in one WHERE TO STAY: place, where it can be Hughes acknowledges that the managed and mitigated," he Sequoia High Sierra Camp, camp is a work in progress, said. "The Swiss figured that (866) 654-2877, unlike 72-year-old Bearpaw out long ago with their hut-to- http://www.sequoiahighsierraca High Sierra Camp, a smaller hut hiking system. People don't mp.com , has 36 tents, which tent enclave in Sequoia pitch tents in the Alps." cost $500 a night for two National Park to the south. people, including three meals a Makes sense to me. Anyway, I day. Extra adult is $250 per The season for both camps is didn't feel like dwelling on the day. Next year,(2007) the camp June through September, point after hiking up Mitchell is scheduled to be open from weather permitting, and Peak with only a day pack, June 15 to Oct. 7, weather services are similar. But an 11 taking a hot shower and dining permitting. Reservations for 1/2 -mile hike is the only way to on slow-cooked lamb shanks. 2007 are available now. There get to Bearpaw, and such By then, I was nodding off in a is a 60-day cancellation policy; touches as the bed linens and nest of clean sheets and full fees must be paid in gourmet cuisine give the blankets. advance. Hughes place a more hedonistic air. [email protected] TO LEARN MORE: I quickly got over feeling like a Giant Sequoia National wimp. I did, however, wonder GETTING THERE: Monument is administered by what environmentalists thought Sequoia National Forest, 1839 about its construction, which S. Newcomb St., Porterville, CA required building a road 93257; (559) 784-1500, between the camp and Marvin http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/sequoia Pass trailhead. Eric Antebi, a spokesman for the Sierra Club, told me the organization hadn't taken a position on the camp because it is on private land; the Forest Service has remained neutral, said Hume Lake District Ranger John D.
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