The Old Mill House, Sidlesham A Little Local History By Christopher Bond Contents Foreword..........................................................................................................................iii. 1. Pagham Harbour - The lost harbour of West Sussex.......................................1. 2. Sidlesham Mill..............................................................................................................13. 3. The Old Mill House....................................................................................................19. 4. The Selsey Tram.........................................................................................................25. 5. Pagham Harbour Local Nature Reserve...........................................................35. Acknowledgements ....................................................................................................44. Sketch Map of Pagham Harbour & Sidlesham Quay............... Inside back-cover i. Foreword The original intention behind writing this little book (which has been long in gestation) was not only to find out more about the history of the beautiful area in which we live but also to inform others who may follow in our footsteps and become future custodians of this unique property when we come to move on. For us it has been a very special home in which we have raised our family of 4 daughters and so it is also to remind them and their children how fortunate they were to have been brought up here. West Sussex is a very well-endowed county, with its rolling downs, its beaches and harbours and ready access to sporting activities – be it horse or motor racing, swimming, surfing or sailing, hiking or cycling, or be it cultural activities such as are found at Chichester Festival Theatre, the Pallant Gallery or at Chichester’s fine cathedral. Bosham, the Witterings, Itchenor and Chichester itself are well known and all considered highly desirable places to live. Sidlesham is less well known and is often just passed through by those on their way to the sea. Being one of the largest parishes in area in the county it has a sprawling nature, largely on account of the Land Settlement Association, which set up a large number of horticultural holdings in 1936 to provide employment opportunities for enterprising out-of-work Durham miners, the place chosen largely for its fine sunshine record. But few, outside the village, are aware that it contains two significant Conservation Areas – one surrounding the 13th Century church of St Mary’s, the other around Sidlesham Quay, where our lovely house is located and on which this little history is centred. There can be few better places to live which overlook the ever-changing tidal seascape and the ever-foraging sea birds and where there is no risk of any man-made development to obscure the far-reaching views from the windows of your home, than this. Chris Bond The Old Mill House November 2019 iii. 1. Pagham Harbour – the lost harbour of Sussex 1. Pagham Harbour – the lost harbour of Sussex Pagham Harbour has only However, the recorded history of Earlier visitors included the been so-called since the latter the harbour precedes this. The Vikings, who were raiding the part of the 18th Century. Romans landed here in AD46, Sussex coast towards the end Before then it was called when the extent of the harbour of the 9th Century. Viking Selsey Haven, Selsey Harbour was much greater than today, warriors beached their longship and, sometimes, Sidlesham on their way to establishing the on the mud of the harbour and Harbour. These former names town of Noviomagus Regnorum - made their way to engage the would seem more appropriate, modern day Chichester. The site local Saxon tribe. A fierce battle as by far the largest part of a Roman Villa and the remains ensued in which the heathen of the harbour lies within of a Roman road have both been Danes were overwhelmed. the parishes of Selsey and discovered nearby. Sidlesham. In earlier times it It is believed that they were had been known as Undering, The fortunes of Pagham Harbour offered the choice of surrender Wydering or Vadering. For as a port began to wane after 1341, and freedom - if they agreed to consistency, we shall use it’s when some 2700 acres of land be baptised into the Christian modern name throughout. had been “over floyed by the sea”, faith - or to fight. The Vikings and from 1401 Pagham ceased chose the latter option, in Looking at Pagham Harbour to be listed as a port. Changes to the belief that it was more today - normally a vast the shingle bank at the harbour honourable to die in battle. expanse of mud flats, saltings mouth - which changes continue Accordingly, they were put and reed beds, covered by the to the present day - probably to death by the Saxons; their sea for only a few hours each obstructed much maritime remains, in full military day - it is difficult to conceive traffic. Nevertheless, the quay regalia, were buried a little that this was, back in the 13th at Sidlesham continued to be way inland, in what is now Century, England’s ninth used by barques bringing corn to the garden of the house called biggest port. Sidlesham Mill, about which there “Danesacre” in Mill Lane. is more in 2 - Sidlesham Mill. 1. The Saxons had earlier been converted to Christianity by Bishop Wilfrid, the man credited with converting the pagan inhabitants of Sussex – the South Saxons. He founded an Abbey/Cathedral on an island (Seal Island) near the mouth of Pagham Harbour. The modern town of Selsey is now located some miles South of “How do I know what is greatest, the Abbey site – now called Church Norton. Later, in the 11th How do I know what is least? Century, the cathedral was relocated to Chichester, and the nave That is My Father’s business,” of the church buildings moved to the new settlement of Selsey. Said Eddi, Wilfrids priest. The chancel was left behind and is now the tiny and lonely Eddi’s Service “But-three are gathered together- St Wilfrid’s Chapel, the subject of Rudyard Kipling’s haunting by Rudyard Kipling Listen to me and attend . poem “Eddi’s Service”. I bring good news my brethren!” Eddi, priest of St.Wilfrid Said Eddi of Manhood End. In his chapel at Manhood End, Ordered a midnight service And he told the Ox of a Manger And a Stall in Bethlehem, For such as cared to attend. And he spoke to the Ass of a Rider, But the Saxons were keeping Christmas, That rode to Jerusalem. And the night was stormy as well They steamed and dripped in the chancel, Nobody came to service They listened and never stirred, Though Eddi rang the bell. While, just as though they were Bishops, “Wicked weather for walking”, Eddi preached them The Word, Said Eddi of Manhood End. Till the gale blew off on the marshes “But I must go on with the service And the windows showed the day. For such as care to attend.” And the Ox and the Ass together The altar-lamps were lighted,- Wheeled and clattered away. An old marsh-donkey came, And when the Saxons mocked him, Bold as a guest invited, Said Eddi of Manhood End, And stared at the guttering flame. “I dare not shut His chapel The storm beat on at the windows, On such as care to attend.” The water splashed on the floor, And a wet, yoke-weary bullock Pushed in through the open door. St Wilfrid’s Chapel today 2. Following the battle of Hastings in 1066, the Norman conquerors established several settlements along the South Coast, which included a castle at Church Norton, for the protection of Pagham Harbour. The earthwork remains of this are visible today, beside the tiny chapel. Artist’s impression of the Norman Castle at Church Norton. The site of the Norman Castle today. 3. In the 13th Century, a new port – Newhavene – was created on the North East side of the harbour, probably formed by an inroad of the sea. This may have been associated with the establishment of the new township of Wardur by the Bishop of Chichester, to encourage which he granted the tenants the right of freehold ownership of their land at 14d an acre. Wardur did not survive the 13th Century, probably on account of its port of Newhavene being cut off from the sea by the first building of the Pagham Wall, one of the first of many attempts to reclaim land from the sea. The Pagham Wall, rebuilt in 1637, now carries the footpath between Pagham and Sidlesham. The harbour itself continued to host significant maritime traffic, mainly transporting corn for milling at Sidlesham Mill, although from 1401 it ceased to be listed as a port. The Armada map of 1587 shows the Mill with the legend “unto which a Barcke of 40 tonnes may flote”. Pagham Harbour, and the men of the Manhood peninsula, reputedly played a part in the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. Having been sighted off the Scilly Isles on 29th July of that year, the Spanish fleet was chased up the English channel by the English fleet under Admiral Howard, harrying the Spaniards, but to little effect. By the 4th August it had reached the Isle of Wight. Armada Map of 1587 4. A nice, but possibly apocryphal, story Whether, or when, the wealthy farmer relates that, on that day, the wedding subsequently consummated the marriage of a wealthy farmer from Sidlesham is not precisely recorded. was taking place in the tiny chapel at Church Norton, near the harbour The book “English Country Lanes” by mouth. Just as the marriage had been Elisabeth Chidsey records probably the solemnised, a messenger arrived at the harbour’s most famous visitor. This church to announce that the Armada book is an anthology, in which country had been sighted off Selsey Bill. The lanes – selected by famous people – are best man at the wedding happened to described by the author.