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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 302 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Anna Kaminski A huge thank you to Suzannah for entrusting Many thanks to the travellers who used me with this project, to fellow authors Michael the last edition and wrote to us with help- Kohn and Daniel McCrohan for all the advice ful hints, useful advice and interesting and encouragement, and to the rest of the anecdotes: Lonely Planet team for all the hard work. ‘Boss Rachael Clapson, Sarah Desabrais, Kieran Lady’ would also like to thank Khongor Guest- Drake, Alexandru Dumitru, Nelli Engel, house and Boojum for sorting out the logistics, Noreen Francis, Jana Frolen, Rachel Godley, Pikhekh and Mishig the drivers, Mandakh the Ask Gudmundsen, Mark Hohenberg, David tireless interpreter, Kurt for the cheerful com- Hunt, Clive Johnson, Cale Lawlor, Paul Liu, pany, Zaya for the Tsaatan knowledge, as well Wojciech Maciolek, Alexandre Muller, Patrick as Jonathan, Michelle, Tobias and Honza, Phillips, Alexandra Röllin Odermatt, Gayle Ganbaa, Amar and everyone else who helped me. Singh, Tony James Slater, Kate Williams, Han Wong, Hong Youngjoo, Cindy Zhi Daniel McCrohan My biggest thanks this time goes to my Uncle David, who travelled with me for almost half of AUTHOR THANKS this research trip. I couldn’t have wished for a better companion. Special thanks to Michael Michael Kohn Kohn for all his help and support, to map Many thanks to my coauthors Anna and Daniel, maestro David Kemp, and to stellar editing duo editors Angela, Suzannah and Brigitte, and Brigitte Ellemor and Suzannah Shwer (you cartographer David. In Ulaanbaatar, special guys will be missed!). Thanks too to Murray thanks to Toroo, Daniel, Cliffe, Lhagva, Khon- (Tsetserleg); Tunga (Tariat); Nazka, Dosjan and gorzul, Nomin, Marc, Jan, Goyo, Olly and Mogi, Canat (Ölgii); Marima (Khovd); Tuya (Uliastai); plus all the taxi drivers and bus drivers who got and Goyo Travel (the Gobi). Love, as always, me around the city. Mostly, thanks to Lallie for to my family in the UK. And to Taotao and the all her support and companionship during the kids: wo ai nimen. project. 303 Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Sciences, 11, 1633-44. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Cover photograph: A ger in northern Mongolia, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Gavriel Jecan/Getty. BEHIND THE SCENES Planet’s Melbourne office, and Book Designer Katherine THIS BOOK produced by the following: Marsh This 7th edition of Lonely Commissioning Editor Cover Research Naomi Planet’s Mongolia guidebook Suzannah Shwer Parker was researched and written by Coordinating Editors Language Content Michael Kohn, Anna Kaminski Carolyn Boicos, Monique Branislava Vladisavljevic and Daniel McCrohan. The Perrin Thanks to Ryan Evans, History chapter was written by Senior Cartographer David Larissa Frost, Anna Harris, Jack Weatherford and Dulmaa Kemp Genesys India, Jouve India, Enkhchuluun. The 6th edition Catherine Indra Kilfoyle, Baigalmaa Kohn, was written by Michael Kohn Senior Editors Naghten, Karyn Noble Wayne Murphy, Chad Parkhill, and Dean Starnes; Michael Trent Paton, Martine Power, Kohn wrote the 4th and 5th Managing Editors Brigitte Dianne Schallmeiner, John editions. This guidebook Ellemor, Angela Tinson Taufa, Juan Winata was commissioned in Lonely Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Ross Taylor ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 304 Index A B Binder 166 Bulgan 138-43 accommodation 266-8, see Bactrian camels 185, 205, birds 262 Bulgan Camel Festival also individual locations 19, 25 birdwatching 34 20, 197 gers 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 Baga Gazryn Chuluu 183-4 Achit Nuur 227 Bulgan City 141-3, 142 language 296 Baga Gazryn Uul 183 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 201 Bulgan-Takashiken bording Achit Nuur 227 Bairam Davaa 225 Gurvan Saikhan National crossing 281 activities 20, 21, 22, 28-34, balbals Park 193 burial mounds 248, see also individual Altai Tavan Bogd National Khövsgöl Nuur National Altai Tavan Bogd National activities Park 215 Park 148 Park 215 aimag museums, see Bairam Davaa 225 Khyargas Nuur National Bairam Davaa 225 museums & galleries Bayannuur 217 Park 228 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve 190 air pollution 64, 264 Bohmörön 225 Ögii Nuur 126 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly air travel 279-80, 286 Chinggis Khot 163 Sangiin Dalai Nuur 184 Protected Area 231 airag 256, 14 Dariganga 176 Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area 225 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 159 alcoholism 273 Khun Chuluu 204 Blue Valley Awards Tsenkheriin Agui 222 Altai 203-5, 203 Mogoit Valley 215 Festival 156 Zagastain Davaa 231 Altai Eagle Festival 22, Nalaikh 104 boat travel 286, see also Buriat people 259 213, 21 Zagastain Davaa 231 kayaking, rafting Burkhan Khalduun 168 Altai Horse Games 215-16 Baldan Baraivun Khiid 165 boat trips bus travel 285, 287, 290 Altai Tavan Bogd National Barga people 259 Park 214-16 Khövsgöl Nuur National business hours 272 Baruun-Urt 174-5 Park 151 Altanbulag 133 Bat-Erdene, B 51 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 127 Altan-Ölgii Uul 106 bathhouses 183 Bogd Khan 69, 241-2, 243, C Amarbayasgalant Khiid bathrooms 275 253 camels 185, 205, 19, 25 136-8, 137, 19 Batshireet 166 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly riding 30, 32, 195, 287 amusement parks 66 Bayad people 259 Protected Area 102-4 festivals 20, 197 Andrews, Roy Chapman 198 Bayan Nuur 217 books 234 camping 29-30, 31 animals 12, 18, 261-3, see health 293-4 canoeing 33-4 also individual animals Bayan Öndör 140 history 241 car travel 40-5 ankle-bone games 51, 72, 248 Bayangiin Nuruu 201 religion 255 driving licences 44 Aral Tolgoi 214 Bayangovi 201-2 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 201 fuel 42 archaeology 123, 237 Bayankhongor 199-202 border crossings GPS & coordinates 287, archery 51 Bayankhongor City 199-201, to/from China 280-4 288-9 area codes 274 200 Bayan-Ölgii 208-17 to/from Kazakhstan 284 insurance 45 argali sheep 189-90 to/from Russia 284-6 jeep travel 281-2, 290-1 Arkhangai 122-8 Bayanzag 197-8, 25 Bornuur 109 navigation 43 art galleries, see museums Bayanzürkh Uul 189 Borsog 149 rallies 44 & galleries Bayarsaikhan, Jamsranjav 123 bowling 71 repairs & maintenance Arvaikheer 111-13, 112 Baytolda 213 brucellosis 294 42-3 Asral & Kunchab Jampa Ling road conditions 40 Buddhist Centre 72 bears 262 bubonic plague 294 road distance chart 43 ATMs 271 Beatles Square 67 Buddhism 253, 254, 255 road rules 44 Avarga Toson Nuur 167 bedbugs 295 courses 71-2 bee stings 295 Buddhist medicine 69 to/from China 281 beer 256 budget 17 to/from Russia 285 Map Pages 000 bicycle travel, see cycling Bugiin Tsav 201 vehicle hire & purchase 41-2 Photo Pages 000 Biger 204 Buir Nuur 172 305 cave paintings, see culture 235, 247-9 travel to/from 162 Ganga Nuur 176-7 petroglyphs currency 271 travel within 162 Gangin Gol 123 caves customs regulations 268 economy 234, 235 gardens, see parks & Dayan Derkhiin Agui 155 cycling 32-3, 96, 125, 286, Eej Mod 132 gardens Eej Khairkhan Nature see also mountain Ekhiin Gol 202 gay travellers 86, 269-70 Reserve 205 biking electricity 269 gazelle 176 Eej (Mother) Cave 165 Cyrillic 296-300 Elsen-Tasarkhai 122 Gelenkhuugiin Suvraga INDEX Ikh Agui 230 embassies 269 158-9 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu 186 Genden, P 245 D emergencies 17, 299 Taliin Agui 178 Dadal 166-9 environmental issues Genghis Khan, see C- Tsagaan Agui 201 Chinggis Khaan H Dalanzadgad 191-3, 192 263-4 Tsenkheriin Agui 222 geography & geology 260 dangers, see safety animal poaching 176 Usan Bolortiin Agui gers 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 Dariganga 176-7 air pollution 64, 264 183-4 goats 216 Dariganga people 259 conservation 260 cell phones 274 Gobi, the 11, 54, 179-205, Darkhad Depression 155-7 endangered species 262 central Mongolia 53, 180, 3, 10 Darkhad people 259 Erdene Zuu Khiid 114-16, 2, 98-128, 100-1 climate & travel 15, 240 climate & travel seasons Darkhan 134-6, 135 seasons 179 Erdenebulgan 155 98 Dashinchilen 143 highlights 180 Erdeneburen 217 highlights 100 Dayan Uul 231 travel to/from 181 Erdenedalai 184 history 99 deer stones 145 travel within 181 Erdenet 138-41, 139 travel to/from 99 Baldan Baraivun Khiid golf 107 Ereen Nuur 230 travel within 99 165 Gov-Altai 202-5 Èrlián 282 Centre of Shaman Erdeneburen 217 GPS 287 etiquette Eternal Heavenly Khannui Valley 123 coordinates table 288-9 Sophistication 68-9 gers 251 Khovd City 218 Great Gobi Strictly ceremonies & rituals 247, Uushigiin Uver 146 food 257 Protected Area 205 248, 249 Delgerkhan 167 photography 272 guides 37-8 Chandmani 221 digital photography 272 events 20-2, 257 Gunii Khöndii Gorge 201 Chandman-Öndör 154 dinosaur fossils 14, 66, 197, exchange rates 17 Günjiin Süm
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