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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Anna Kaminski A huge thank you to Suzannah for entrusting Many thanks to the travellers who used me with this project, to fellow authors Michael the last edition and wrote to us with help- Kohn and Daniel McCrohan for all the advice ful hints, useful advice and interesting and encouragement, and to the rest of the anecdotes: Lonely Planet team for all the hard work. ‘Boss Rachael Clapson, Sarah Desabrais, Kieran Lady’ would also like to thank Khongor Guest- Drake, Alexandru Dumitru, Nelli Engel, house and Boojum for sorting out the logistics, Noreen Francis, Jana Frolen, Rachel Godley, Pikhekh and Mishig the drivers, Mandakh the Ask Gudmundsen, Mark Hohenberg, David tireless interpreter, Kurt for the cheerful com- Hunt, Clive Johnson, Cale Lawlor, Paul Liu, pany, Zaya for the Tsaatan knowledge, as well Wojciech Maciolek, Alexandre Muller, Patrick as Jonathan, Michelle, Tobias and Honza, Phillips, Alexandra Röllin Odermatt, Gayle Ganbaa, Amar and everyone else who helped me. Singh, Tony James Slater, Kate Williams, Han Wong, Hong Youngjoo, Cindy Zhi Daniel McCrohan My biggest thanks this time goes to my Uncle David, who travelled with me for almost half of AUTHOR THANKS this research trip. I couldn’t have wished for a better companion. Special thanks to Michael Michael Kohn Kohn for all his help and support, to map Many thanks to my coauthors Anna and Daniel, maestro David Kemp, and to stellar editing duo editors Angela, Suzannah and Brigitte, and Brigitte Ellemor and Suzannah Shwer (you cartographer David. In , special guys will be missed!). Thanks too to Murray thanks to Toroo, Daniel, Cliffe, Lhagva, Khon- (Tsetserleg); Tunga (Tariat); Nazka, Dosjan and gorzul, Nomin, Marc, Jan, Goyo, Olly and Mogi, Canat (Ölgii); Marima (Khovd); Tuya (Uliastai); plus all the taxi drivers and bus drivers who got and Goyo Travel (the Gobi). Love, as always, me around the city. Mostly, thanks to Lallie for to my family in the UK. And to Taotao and the all her support and companionship during the kids: wo ai nimen. project. BEHIND THE SCENES 303 Naomi Katherine Ryan Evans, Ryan Evans, Genesys Genesys , Jouve India, Indra Baigalmaa Kilfoyle, Kohn, Wayne ChadMurphy, Parkhill, MartinePaton, Power, Trent Dianne John Schallmeiner, Juan Winata Taufa, Book Designer Marsh Cover Research Parker Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Anna Larissa Harris, Frost, Hydrologyand Earth System , 11, 1633-44. 11, ,

David David Brigitte Carolyn Carolyn Catherine Classification’, Classification’, Sciences , northern in ger A photograph: Cover Jecan/Getty. Gavriel Kemp Senior Editors Naghten, Karyn Noble Managing Editors Angela Tinson Ellemor, Assisting Editors Bain, Taylor Ross Planet’s Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Suzannah Shwer Coordinating Editors Carolyn Boicos, Monique Perrin Senior Cartographer guidebook Mongolia Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate Köppen-Geiger the of Map World ACKNOWLEDGMENTS and Dean Starnes; Michael Kohn wrote the 4th and 5th editions. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely and Daniel TheMcCrohan. History chapter was written by Jackand Weatherford Dulmaa Enkhchuluun. The 6th edition was written by Michael Kohn This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s was researched and written by Michael Anna Kohn, Kaminski THIS BOOK ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 304

Index

A B Binder 166 Bulgan 138-43 accommodation 266-8, see Bactrian camels 185, 205, birds 262 Bulgan Camel Festival also individual locations 19, 25 birdwatching 34 20, 197 gers 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 Baga Gazryn Chuluu 183-4 Achit Nuur 227 Bulgan City 141-3, 142 language 296 Baga Gazryn Uul 183 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 201 Bulgan-Takashiken bording Achit Nuur 227 Bairam Davaa 225 Gurvan Saikhan National crossing 281 activities 20, 21, 22, 28-34, balbals Park 193 burial mounds 248, see also individual Altai Tavan Bogd National Khövsgöl Nuur National Altai Tavan Bogd National activities Park 215 Park 148 Park 215 aimag museums, see Bairam Davaa 225 Khyargas Nuur National Bairam Davaa 225 museums & galleries Bayannuur 217 Park 228 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve 190 air pollution 64, 264 Bohmörön 225 Ögii Nuur 126 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly air travel 279-80, 286 Chinggis Khot 163 Sangiin Dalai Nuur 184 Protected Area 231 airag 256, 14 Dariganga 176 Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area 225 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 159 alcoholism 273 Khun Chuluu 204 Blue Valley Awards Tsenkheriin Agui 222 Altai 203-5, 203 Mogoit Valley 215 Festival 156 Zagastain Davaa 231 Altai Eagle Festival 22, Nalaikh 104 boat travel 286, see also Buriat people 259 213, 21 Zagastain Davaa 231 kayaking, rafting Burkhan Khalduun 168 Altai Horse Games 215-16 Baldan Baraivun Khiid 165 boat trips bus travel 285, 287, 290 Altai Tavan Bogd National Barga people 259 Park 214-16 Khövsgöl Nuur National business hours 272 Baruun-Urt 174-5 Park 151 Altanbulag 133 Bat-Erdene, B 51 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 127 Altan-Ölgii Uul 106 bathhouses 183 Bogd 69, 241-2, 243, C Amarbayasgalant Khiid bathrooms 275 253 camels 185, 205, 19, 25 136-8, 137, 19 Batshireet 166 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly riding 30, 32, 195, 287 amusement parks 66 Bayad people 259 Protected Area 102-4 festivals 20, 197 Andrews, Roy Chapman 198 Bayan Nuur 217 books 234 camping 29-30, 31 animals 12, 18, 261-3, see health 293-4 canoeing 33-4 also individual animals Bayan Öndör 140 history 241 car travel 40-5 ankle-bone games 51, 72, 248 Bayangiin Nuruu 201 religion 255 driving licences 44 Aral Tolgoi 214 Bayangovi 201-2 Böön Tsagaan Nuur 201 fuel 42 archaeology 123, 237 199-202 border crossings GPS & coordinates 287, archery 51 Bayankhongor City 199-201, to/from 280-4 288-9 area codes 274 200 Bayan-Ölgii 208-17 to/from Kazakhstan 284 insurance 45 argali sheep 189-90 to/from Russia 284-6 jeep travel 281-2, 290-1 Arkhangai 122-8 Bayanzag 197-8, 25 Bornuur 109 navigation 43 art galleries, see museums Bayanzürkh Uul 189 Borsog 149 rallies 44 & galleries Bayarsaikhan, Jamsranjav 123 bowling 71 repairs & maintenance Arvaikheer 111-13, 112 Baytolda 213 brucellosis 294 42-3 Asral & Kunchab Jampa Ling road conditions 40 Buddhist Centre 72 bears 262 bubonic plague 294 road distance chart 43 ATMs 271 Beatles Square 67 Buddhism 253, 254, 255 road rules 44 Avarga Toson Nuur 167 bedbugs 295 courses 71-2 bee stings 295 Buddhist medicine 69 to/from China 281 beer 256 budget 17 to/from Russia 285 Map Pages 000 bicycle travel, see cycling Bugiin Tsav 201 vehicle hire & purchase 41-2 Photo Pages 000 Biger 204 Buir Nuur 172 305 cave paintings, see culture 235, 247-9 travel to/from 162 Ganga Nuur 176-7 petroglyphs currency 271 travel within 162 Gangin Gol 123 caves customs regulations 268 economy 234, 235 gardens, see parks & Dayan Derkhiin Agui 155 cycling 32-3, 96, 125, 286, Eej Mod 132 gardens Eej Khairkhan Nature see also mountain Ekhiin Gol 202 gay travellers 86, 269-70 Reserve 205 biking electricity 269 gazelle 176

Eej (Mother) Cave 165 Cyrillic 296-300 Elsen-Tasarkhai 122 Gelenkhuugiin Suvraga INDEX Ikh Agui 230 embassies 269 158-9 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu 186 Genden, P 245 D emergencies 17, 299 -Taliin Agui 178 Dadal 166-9 environmental issues , see  C

Tsagaan Agui 201 Chinggis Khaan  H Dalanzadgad 191-3, 192 263-4 Tsenkheriin Agui 222 geography & geology 260 dangers, see safety animal poaching 176 Usan Bolortiin Agui gers 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 Dariganga 176-7 air pollution 64, 264 183-4 goats 216 Dariganga people 259 conservation 260 cell phones 274 Gobi, the 11, 54, 179-205, Darkhad Depression 155-7 endangered species 262 central Mongolia 53, 180, 3, 10 Darkhad people 259 Erdene Zuu Khiid 114-16, 2, 98-128, 100-1 climate & travel 15, 240 climate & travel seasons Darkhan 134-6, 135 seasons 179 Erdenebulgan 155 98 Dashinchilen 143 highlights 180 Erdeneburen 217 highlights 100 Dayan Uul 231 travel to/from 181 Erdenedalai 184 history 99 deer stones 145 travel within 181 Erdenet 138-41, 139 travel to/from 99 Baldan Baraivun Khiid golf 107 Ereen Nuur 230 travel within 99 165 Gov-Altai 202-5 Èrlián 282 Centre of Shaman Erdeneburen 217 GPS 287 etiquette Eternal Heavenly Khannui Valley 123 coordinates table 288-9 Sophistication 68-9 gers 251 Khovd City 218 Great Gobi Strictly ceremonies & rituals 247, Uushigiin Uver 146 food 257 Protected Area 205 248, 249 Delgerkhan 167 photography 272 guides 37-8 Chandmani 221 digital photography 272 events 20-2, 257 Gunii Khöndii Gorge 201 Chandman-Öndör 154 dinosaur fossils 14, 66, 197, exchange rates 17 Günjiin Süm 105-6 children, travel with 268 198, 201, 14 Gurvan Saikhan National Chinggis Khaan 13, 162, disabilities, travellers Park 193-6 166, 168, 236, 238, with 275 F falcons 262 239-41 dog sledding 34 fashion shows 86 birthday celebration dogs 273 H 22, 73 festivals 20-2, 257 health 292-5 Dörgön 220 books 241 films 234 heatstroke 295 Dörgön Nuur 221 statues & monuments fish 262-3 Hentiy, see Khentii Dornod 169-74 59, 104, 167, 239, fishing 33, 38 hepatitis 294 Dornogov 187-91 13, 237 Dadal 168 hiking & trekking 12, 18, 29 Dörvöd people 259 Chinggis Khaan Square Khövsgöl Nuur National Batshireet 166 58-9 drinks 14, 256, 298 Park 149 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly driving, see car travel Chinggis Khot 162-5, 163 Ögii Nuur 126 Protected Area 102-3 Dugany Am 194 Choibalsan 169-71, 170 Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur 127 Dadal 167-8 Dulaankhaan 133 Choijin Lama Temple Üüreg Nuur 226 Gangin Gol 123 Dundgov 181-7 Museum 65 Flaming Cliffs 197-8, 25 Kharkhiraa Uul & Türgen dunes, see sand dunes Christianity 255 food 14, 256-7, see also Uul 226-7 Chuluunkhoroot 173 Dzavakhan, see Zavkhan individual locations Khoton Nuur to Tavan Chuluut Gur 126 costs 269 Bogd 215 circus performances 86 E etiquette 257 Khövsgöl Nuur National clan names 258 eagle festivals 22, 210-11, language 297-8 Park 149-50 climate 16, 20, 21, 22, 261, 213, 217, 21 fossils 14, 66, 197, 198, Khövsgöl to Darkhad 150 see also individual eagle hunting 14, 213, 201, 14 Khuiten Uul 214 regions 217, 15 Khustain National communism 131, 243, 245, tours 210, 215 Park 111 254, 258 G eastern Mongolia 54, Nomgon Mountain 199 consulates 269, 282 Gachuurt 109-10 160-78, 161 Otgon Tenger Uul costs 17, 267, 269, 272 galleries, see museums & Strictly Protected climate & travel seasons galleries courses 71-2 160, 162 Area 231 Canyon 201 cranes 262, 264 highlights 161 Tarialan to Khotgor 226-7 Gandan Khiid 67-8, 13 credit cards 271-2 history 162 Terelj area 106-7 306 history 236-46, see also Ikh Gazryn Chuluu 186-7 Khökh Nuur (Khentii) 165 Moltzog Els 197 individual regions Ikh Khairkhan Nuruu 230 Khökh Nuur (Uvs) 227 monasteries & temples Battle of Khalkhiin Ikh Nartiin Chuluu 189-90 Khomyn Tal 221 15, 18 Gol 174 immigration 279 Khongoryn Els 195, 10 Amarbayasgalant Khiid books 241 immunisations 293 khöömii 85, 213, 221 136-8, 137, 19 Chinggis Khaan 13, 162, insurance Khorgo Uul 127 Amarbuyant Khiid 202

INDEX INDEX 166, 168, 236, 238, Amgalan Süm 65 239-41 car 45 Khotgor 225 Badma Ega Datsan 69 Hun empire 237 health 292 Khoton Nuur 214-15 Bakula Rinpoche Süm 69 99, 113-14, travel 270 Khovd 217-23 H-M Baldan Baraivun Khiid 165  116, 117 internet access 270 Khovd City 218-20, 219 internet resources Bari Lam Khiid 185 240-1 Khövsgöl 143-59  Buyandelgerüülekh 239-40 food 257 Khövsgöl Nuur 13, 147-8, 13 Khiid 123 Soviet era 243-6 health 293 Khövsgöl Nuur National Danrig Danjaalin Khiid 170 Turkic era 237-8 planning 17 Park 147-54, 148 Danzandarjaa Khiid 144 warrior queens 242 Islam 254-5 Khuiten Uul 214 Dashchoilon Khiid 67 WWII 245 itineraries 23-7 Khurgan Nuur 215 Dashchoinkhorlon hitching 287, 290 Khustain National Park Khiid 142 110-11 holidays 273 Dashgimpeliin Khiid 181 J Kublai Khan 240-1 horse branding 248 Jankhai 148 Dayan Derkh Monastery horse mounds 123 Jargalant 159 155 horse racing 50-1, 215-16 Jargalant Khairkhan L Dechinravjaalin Khiid 223 horse riding & trekking 11, Uul 221 Lake Baikal 285 Delgeriin Choiriin Khiid 30, 32, 10, 31 Javkhlant Tolgoi 229 lakes 260-1, see also 183 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Jebtzun Damba 69, 241-2, individual lakes Erdene Zuu Khiid 114-16, Protected Area 103 253 language 296-301 2, 15, 240 Dadal 167-8 jeep travel, see car travel legal matters 270 Erdenemandal Khiid 174 Gachuurt 109 Jiglegiin Am 148 leopards 262 Erdiin Khambiin Khiid 121 Kharkhorin 117 lesbian travellers 86, 269-70 Galdan Zuu 122 Khövsgöl Nuur National lice 295 Gandan Khiid 67-8, 13 Park 150-1 K Karakorum 99, 113-14, 116, Gandan Muntsaglan Khövsgöl to Darkhad 150 117, see also Kharkhorin Khiid 112 Khustain National M kayaking 33-4, 151 Gandan Puntsag Choilon Park 111 Malchin Peak 214 Khiid 218 Kazakh people 215 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Mandalgov 181-3, 182 Gimpil Darjaalan Khiid Khagiin Khar Nuur 106 Protected Area 231 Mandshir Khiid 102 184 Khalkh people 259 Tariat 127 Manduhai the Wise Queen Günjiin Süm 105-6 Khalkhiin Gol 172-4 Terelj area 107 242 Jargalantiin Dugan 159 Khankh 149 Uliastai 229 maps 91, 270-1 Khamaryn Khiid 189 Khannui Valley 123 horses 110, 205, 247, Marra valley 217 Kharaagiin Khiid 134 Khar Balgas 119 261, 262 measures 268 Khoshuu Khuralin Khiid hot springs, see also Khar Bukh Balgas 143 medical services 294 185 mineral springs Khar Nuur (Khovd) 220-1 meditation 72, 106 Khutagt Ekh Datsan 132 Bulnai 154-5 Khar Nuur (Zavkhan) 230 mineral springs, see also Khutagt Lam Khiid 185 Khalun Us Rashant 168 Khar Us 148 hot springs Lamyn Gegeenii Gon Rashany Ikh Uul 215 Khar Us Nuur National Avarga Toson Mineral Gandan Dedlin Khiid Tsenkher 125-6 Park 220-1 Spring 167 199 Yestii 106-7 Kharkhiraa Uul 226-7 Baga Gazryn Uul 183 Maharaja Süm 65 Hövsgöl, see Khövsgöl Kharkhorin 113-19, 114 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Mandshir Khiid 102 Hunnu people 237 Khatanbaatar Magsarjav Nature Reserve 190 Ongiin Khiid 185 hypothermia 295 Mausoleum 142 Khajuu Bulag 167 Övgön Khiid 121 Khatgal 148 Ulaan Uulyn Rashaan 223 Ovoon Khiid 176 Khatgal Ice Festival 20, 151 minibus travel 290 Shadavdarjaliin Khiid 163 I Khentii 162-9 mining 139, 234, 240, Shankh Khiid 117 ice skating 34 260, 264 Kherlen Bar Khot 171-2 Süm Khökh Burd 184 Ikh Bogd Uul 201 minivan travel 290 Khermen Tsav 201 Tögs Buyant Javkhlant Khetsuu Khad 228 mobile phones 274 Khiid 229 Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Modon Huys 151 Tövkhön Khiid 119-20 Map Pages 000 Reserve 121-2 Mogoi Mod 148 Tsorjiin Khureenii Photo Pages 000 Khökh Nuur (Dornod) 173 Moltsog Els 177 Khiid 183 307 Yadam Süm 65 Aimag Museum Museum of Orkhon Eej Khairkhan Nature Zuu Süm 65 (Altanbulag) 133 Aimag 139 Reserve 205 money 16, 17, 268-9, 271-2 Aimag Museum Museum of the West Ergeliin Zuu 188 Mongol & Mongolian (Arvaikheer) 112 Road Military Unit 142 Ganga Nuur Nature people 239 Aimag Museum National Museum of Reserve 175 Mongol Els 122 (Bayankhongor City) Mongolia 59, 64 Gorkhi-Terelj National 199 Mongol empire 239-40 Natural History Museum Park 105 INDEX Aimag Museum (Bayankhongor City) Mongol Rally 44 Great Gobi Strictly (Bulgan City) 141 199 Protected Area 205 Mongolia Charity Rally 44 Aimag Museum Natural History Museum Gurvan Saikhan National Mongolian language (Chinggis Khot) 163 (Choibalsan) 169 Park 193-6  M-N 296-301 Aimag Museum Red Ger Art Gallery 67  Ikh Gazryn Chuluu Mönkh Khairkhan (Khovd City) 218 South Gobi Museum 191 Nature Reserve 186 Uul 222-3 Aimag Museum Theatre Museum 66 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu monuments & statues (Mandalgov) 181 Ulaanbaatar City Nature Reserve Alan Goa 154 Aimag Museum Museum 71 189-90 Beatles 67 (Ölgii) 210 Victims of Political Khan Khentii Strictly Bilge 120 Aimag Museum Persecution Memorial Protected Area 106 Chinggis Khaan (Sainshand) 187 Museum 65-6 Khan Khökhii National (Tsonjin Boldog) Aimag Museum Wildlife Museum 69 Park 226 104, 13 (Ulaangom) 223 Winter Palace of the Khangai Nuruu National Chinggis Khaan Aimag Museum Bogd Khan 69-70, 25 Park 119 (Zuunmod) 99 (Ulaanbaatar) 59 Memorial Khar Us Nuur National Chinggis Khaan obelisk Aimag Museum & Museum 112 Park 220-1 Gallery (Choibalsan) (Delgerkhaan) 167 Zanabazar Museum of Khasagt Khairkhan 169 Chingunjav 144 Fine Arts 64-5 Strictly Protected Alan Goa Museum 154 Area 202 Deluun Boldog 166 music 85, 86 Friendship Monument Bornuur museum 109 Khögnö Khan Uul Nature 139-40 Choijin Lama Temple Reserve 121-2 Ikh Burkhant 173 Museum 65 N Khökh Serkh Strictly Kul-Teginii 120 Dadal Museum 167 naadam 9, 22, 50-2, 257, Protected Area 210, , 222 Mongolian Heroes’ Ethnography Museum 2 8-9 Memorial 170 (Baruun-Urt) 174 Chandman-Öndör 154 Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Ethnography Museum Dadal 168 Nuur National Park Morin Khuur Statue & 126 Seated Buddha 134 (Chinggis Khot) 163 Khatgal 151 Khövsgöl Nuur National stone turtles 117 History Museum 228-9 Renchinlkhumbe 156 Park 147-54, 148 Stupa Memorial 167 Hunting Museum 167 Ulaanbaatar 51-2, 72, 21 Khuisiin Naiman Nuur International Intellectual Sükhbaatar 58 Naiman Nuur 118 Nature Reserve 118 Museum 70-1 Tonyukok 104 Nalaikh 104 Khustain National Park Karakorum Museum Toroi-Bandi 177 Namarjin valley 217 110-11 116-17 Yakovlev Сhuudiin Tank National Garden Park 68 Khyargas Nuur National Khalkhiin Gol museum Khoshuu 172 National Library of Park 228 173 Yalaltiin Khoshuu 172-3 Mongolia 67 Lkhachinvandad Uul Khövsgöl Aimag Museum National Museum of Nature Reserve 175 Zaisan Memorial 70 (Mörön) 144 Mongolia 59, 64 Mankhan Nature Reserve Mörön 143-7, 144 Mongol Costumes national parks & reserves 222 motorcycle travel 40-5, Centre 65 261, 263 Mongol Daguur A Strictly 281, 285 Mongolian Artists’ Alag Khairkhan Nature Protected Area 172 mountain biking Exhibition Hall 66 Reserve 202 Mongol Daguur B Mongolia Bike Mongolian National Altai Tavan Bogd Strictly Protected Area Challenge 22 Modern Art Gallery 66 National Park 214-16 172, 173 Terelj area 106 Mongolian Statehood Altan Els Strictly Mönkh Khairkhan Ulaanbaatar 69 History Museum 59 Protected Area 226 National Park 222-3 mountaineering 34 Museum of Arkhangai Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Nömrög Strictly Aimag 122 mountains 260, see also Protected Area 102-4 Protected Area 172 individual mountains Museum of Danzan Bulgan Gol Nature Onon-Balj National Ravjaa 187 Mukhar Shiveert 194 Reserve 222 Park 166 Museum of Munkhbayar, Tsetsegee Develiin Aral Nature Otgon Tenger Uul Darkhan-Uul 134 260 Reserve 210, 225 Strictly Protected Museum of Famous museums & galleries Dornod Mongol Area 231 People 229 976 Gallery 68 Strictly Protected Sharga Nature Reserve Aimag Museum (Altai) Museum of Natural Area 175 202 203 History 64 308 Siilkhem Nuruu National Darkhad Depression 156 Trans-Mongolian Railway Shambhala 189 Park 210 Deluun Boldog 166 travel 46-9, 48 shared vehicles 290 Small Gobi A Strictly Ikh Santiin Davaa 149 travel seasons 16, 20, sheep 189-90 Protected Area 191 Khamaryn Khiid 189 21, 22 Shiliin Bogd Uul 177 Tes River Reserve 226 Khövsgöl Nuur National plants 263 skating 34 Toson Khulstai Nature Park 148 poaching 176 skiing 34, 71

INDEX INDEX Reserve 172 Nomgon Mountain 199 politics 234-5 sky burials 247 Tsambagarav Uul Öglögchiin Kherem 166 pollution 64, 264 National Park 217 smoking 82, 268 Shadavdarjaliin population 235 Ugtam Uul Nature snakes 295 N- Khiid 163 postal services 272-3  Reserve 173 snow leopards 262 T Shiliin Bogd Uul 177 Potanii glacier 214  Uran-Togoo Tulga Uul Stalin, Joseph 245 Nature Reserve 140 Taikhar Chuluu 126 protected areas, see statues, see monuments & national parks & Uvs Nuur Strictly Tasgany Ovoo 69 statues reserves Protected Area 225 Ulaan Davaa 225 Sükhbaatar 132-3, 132 Przewalski’s horse 110, Zagiin Us Nature Reserve Zagastain Davaa 231 205, 261, 262 Sükhbaatar (aimag) 174-8 184 Övörkhangai 111-22 public holidays 273 Sükhbaatar Square 58-9 Naushki 284 Oyu Tolgoi 234, 264 Süm Khökh Burd 184 newspapers 91, 268 nomadism 247-8 P Q northern Mongolia 54, quarantine 273-4 T parks & gardens Taikhar Chuluu 126 129-59, 130 Khövsgöl Park 144 takhi 110, 205, 261, 262 accommodation 129 National Garden R Takhiin Tal Research climate & travel seasons Park 68 rabies 294-5 Station 205 129 Shuteen Park 203 radio 268 Tarialan 226 highlights 130 Tree Nursery 181 rafting 33-4, 107 history 131 Tariat 126-8, 127 Parliament House 59 rail travel, see train travel travel to/from 131 Tavan Bogd 214 passports 279, see also rallies 44 tea 256 travel within 131 visas Ravjaa, Danzan 186, telephone services 274 Noyon Uul 237 petroglyphs 187, 189 temples, see monasteries Baga Gazryn Chuluu 183 registration 59, 275, 277 & temples Bayangiin Nuruu 201 O religion 235, 253-5 Terelj area 105-9, 105 Ögedei Khaan 256 Eej Khairkhan Nature Renchinlkhumbe 156 Terkhiin Tsagaan Ögii Nuur 126 Reserve 205 renewable energy 264 Nuur 126 Öglögchiin Kherem 165-6 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu rituals, see ceremonies & theatre 84-5, 188 Nature Reserve 190 Ölgii 208-13, 209 rituals theft 90, 273 Khavtsgait 194 Ömnögov 191-8 road distance chart 43 throat singing 85, 213, 221 Mandshir Khiid 102 Öndörkhaan 162-5, 163 rock climbing 105, 186 time 275 Rashaan Khad 166 Ongiin Khiid 184-6 rock paintings, see tipping 272 Sevrei 201 petroglyphs opening hours 272 toilets 275 Sheveed Uul 214 organised tours 35-9 Tolbo Nuur 217 Tsagaan Sala 214 Orkhon Khürkhree 120 S Torguud people 259 Tsenkheriin Agui 222 Orokhiin Davaa 159 safety 90, 273-4, 287 Tosontsengel 231-2 phonecards 274 Otgon 231 Sagsai 213 tourist information 275 photography 272 Otgon Tenger Uul 231 Sainshand 187-8, 187 tours 35-9 pikas 195 Övgön Khiid 121 sand dunes Töv 99-111 planning, see also ovoos 254 individual regions Khongoryn Els 195, 10 Tövkhön Khiid 119-20 Altan 176 activities 28-34 Moltsog Els 177 train travel 46-9, 282-4, 285-6, 291 Amarbuyant Khiid 202 budgeting 17, 267, 269, Moltzog Els 197 Avarga Toson Nuur 167 272 Mongol Els 122 translators 37-8 Baga Gazryn Uul 183 calendar of events 20-2 Sangiin Dalai Nuur 184 Trans-Manchurian Railway 46 Bayanzürkh Uul 189 car & motorcycle Sangiin Kherem 218 Trans-Mongolian Bogdkhan Uul Strictly travel 40-5 Sansar 70-1, 70 Railway 46-9, 48 Protected Area 103 internet resources 17 satellite phones 274 Trans-Siberian Railway 46 Burkhan Khalduun 168 itineraries 23-7 Saxon miners 240 travel to/from Mongolia basics 16-17 scams 273 China 190, 218, 280-4 Mongolia’s regions 53-4 Selenge 131-8 Kazakhstan 212, 284 Map Pages 000 naadam 50-2 shamanism 68-9, 156, Mongolia 279-86 Photo Pages 000 organised tours 35-9 253-4 Russia 212, 284-6 309 travel within Mongolia activities 71 V travel within 208 286-91 climate 56 vacations 273 wild horses, see takhi tree-planting nurseries 181 courses 71-2 vaccinations 293 wildlife 12, 18, 260, 261-3, trekking, see hiking & drinking & nightlife 82-4 vehicle repairs 42-3 see also individual trekking species emergency services 90 visas tribal groups 258-9 Winter Palace of the Bogd entertainment 84-7 China 276

Tsaatan people 155, 156-7, Khan 69-70, 25 INDEX festivals & events 51-2, Kazakhstan 276 158, 259 wolves 262 72-3 Mongolia 59, 275, 277-8 Tsagaan Bulag 201 women in Mongolia 249 food 56, 77-82 Russia 276

Tsagaan Sar 20, 257 women travellers 278  T-Z highlights 57 vodka 256, 257 Tsagaan Shuvuut work 278

 history 58 Uul 226 volcanoes internet access 90-1 wrestling 51, 86 Tsagaannuur 156 Khorgo Uul 127 itineraries 58 Tsagaan-Uur 155 Shiliin Bogd Uul 177 medical services 91 Tsambagarav Uul volunteering 111, 278 Y National Park 217 permits 91 yak travel 287 Tsast Uul 217 safety 90 Yamaat Valley 225 shopping 87-9 W Yargaitin Ekh Uul 221 tsatsal 247 Wall of Chinggis Khaan 173 sights 58-71 Yasnee Tsav 201 Tsengel 213-14 walking, see hiking & tourist offices 92 Yestii Hot Water Springs Tsenkher Hot Springs trekking travel seasons 56 106-7 125-6 warrior queens 242 travel to/from 92-5 yoga 72 Tsenkheriin Agui 221-2 wasp stings 295 travel within 95-7 Yolyn Am 193-4 Tserendavaa 221 water 295 Ulaangom 223-5, yurts 9, 250-2, 266-7, 9 Tsetserleg 122-5, 124 224 weather 16, 20, 21, 22, Tsogt Taijiin Tsagaan Uliastai 228-31, 229 261, see also individual Balgas 143 Ungern-Sternberg, regions Z tuberculosis 295 Baron Roman Nikolaus websites, see internet Zagastain Davaa 231 Fyodirovich von 244 Türgen Uul 226-7 resources Zamyn-Üüd 190-1 urbanisation 249 Turkic era 237-8 Wedding Palace 66 Zamyn-Üüd–Èrlián (Ereen) Tuvan people 259 Uriankhai people 259 weights 268 border crossing 281 TV 268 Üüreg Nuur 226 western Mongolia 54, Zanabazar 64-5, 112, Uushigiin Uver 146 206-32, 207 119, 138 Uvs 223-8 climate & travel seasons Zavkhan 228-32 U Uvs Nuur 225 206 zud 261 Ulaan Tolgoi 214 Uvsiin Khar Us highlights 207 Zuun Nuur 158 Ulaanbaatar 13, 53, 56-97, Nuur 227 history 208 , , Zuunmod 99, 102 57 60-1 70 Uzemchin people 259 travel to/from 208 accommodation 56, 73-7 310 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving/Snorkelling Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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