A Strawberry Cake for Any Occasion P. 28 Celebrating Holi with Love

Home , Ilish, Paella

A Strawberry Cake Celebrating Holi With Love, Chefs Share Their for Any Occasion p. 28 Color, and Lots of Snacks p. 54 Passover Recipes p. 70

April 2021

The fondue-dipping, Crock-Pot-cooking, frozen-margarita-making year that impacts the way we eat today

CHEESY ARTICHOKE FONDUE p. 52

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PHOTOGRAPH BY HEAMI LEE. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO. IF WE PACKED ANY MORE FLAVOR IN THIS MANDU, WE’D NEED ANOTHER MANDU. Go bold. Go Bibigo.

Authentic Korean dumplings now in the freezer aisle. Editor in Chief DAWN DAVIS

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BA’s 1971 issues in all their glory

Back to the Future

I CAN’T RECALL EXACTLY WHAT GOT ME interested Shifts in culinary culture don’t happen in a vacuum. Much has in the year 1971. It might have started with a sliver: Half a century been written about the politics of the ’70s, but I was particularly is, after all, a natural inflection point. What I do know is that the struck by the explosion of cultural content. My favorite discovery discoveries that the razor-sharp Bon Appétit team and I made was that Soul Train—created, produced, and hosted by Don about the year provoked a lot of discussion and engendered the Cornelius—debuted in 1971 as well, forever changing how exuber- question, “Is 1971 the year that changed everything culinarily?” ance is expressed through dance. If you’ve seen the terrific documentary The Black Godfather, Speaking of exuberance, we’ve been through a lot these past you’ll remember a graphic that shows the endless sway of music 12 months: a lot of emotions and a lot of dirty dishes, for starters. ) T

S executive Clarence Avant. He influenced multiple generations of We need comfort and joy. For comfort, we have an assortment of U G

U artists, who then went on to influence subsequent generations. The easy yet abundantly flavorful dishes you’ll want to make again A / Y

L reporting of Elyse Inamine likewise shows the enormous reach of and again. Andy Baraghani’s beef stir-fry with celery (p. 68) is as U J (

L Alice Waters, who opened her trailblazing restaurant, Chez Panisse, delicious as it is fragrant; the spicy shrimp pilaf (p. 68) left me A

N in 1971. When I wrote my book about chefs, If You Can Stand the wanting seconds. For joy, we’ve got recipes to provide some O I T

A Heat, some years ago, I remember chef after chef citing Waters’s impressive moments for your holiday table, from Chris Morocco’s N R E

T impact, particularly the way she gave them the okay to look in contemporary take on beef Wellington (hello, 1971!) to a modern N I their backyard rather than toward Europe for inspiration. Another collection of Passover dishes (p. 70), as well as a vibrant feature N O T

L woman I met in conjunction with that book, Edna Lewis, was mak- on Holi, a springtime Hindu celebration of new beginnings with I H

; ing moves that year as well, finishing The Edna Lewis Cookbook, lots of color (p. 54). O R A the first title in what would become an illustrious catalog. Finally, in preparation for spring, I asked Radhi Devlukia- N N E It’s also the year that launched corporations that started out Shetty, an Ayurvedic practitioner, to share with us the link G

D small and are now giants with outsize influence over everything between food and cleansing our body (p. 20), which is apt not

E G

R from what we drink (Starbucks) to how we chop (Cuisinart). It only because a new season is around the corner but also because O E saw the rise of the salad bar, which I didn’t realize was a funny after a difficult year, we could all use a refresh right now. G

: S

H invention until I read Samantha Irby’s hilarious take on it, and P A R the publication of a landmark book seeking solutions to problems

G DAWN DAVIS O

T that still haunt us today, Diet for a Small Planet. I think when you editor in chief O H

P turn to page 36, you’ll be surprised by what you learn. @bonappetitdawn on instagram

APRIL 2021 – 9 Now is the time to start listening.

Join the best writers in America as they make sense of a changing world. Hosted by David Remnick.

THE NEW YORKER RADIO HOUR PODCAST

A co-production with Family Meal This month’s recipes are light yet satisfying: Think coconut- mustard fish, mushroom-farro soup, and more

Perfect your hard-boil technique with the Basically guide to eggs on p.81.

AFTER WHAT feels like the world’s longest winter (for many reasons), Lara Lee’s crunchy and bright Gado- Gado Summer Rolls (p.12) are getting us excited about warm- weather cooking. Her recipe is a cross-cultural twist on two street food icons: refreshing Vietnamese goi cuô´n, or summer rolls, and Indonesian gado-gado, a colorful composed salad with a spicy peanut dressing. To serve, Lee likes to arrange the halved summer rolls on a platter along with sliced hard-boiled eggs and crunchy, airy prawn crackers—two common gado- gado ingredients—with a side of peanut sauce for dipping. Perfecting the rolling technique takes some practice, but we’re using that as an excuse to make these again and again.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA FISHMAN APRIL 2021 – 11 Family Meal

Gado-Gado 4 SERVINGS Kosher salt ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. (or more) 8 oz. firm tofu, sliced ¼" thick Summer Rolls vegetable oil 12 8" rice paper rounds For tight and neat rolls that are less ⅔ cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, 3 cups 2" matchsticks crunchy prone to tearing as you wrap, soak preferably skin-on vegetables (such as carrots, the rice paper rounds until they’re 2 large shallots, thinly sliced cucumber, and/or bean sprouts) just flexible, and don’t overfill them 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ head of romaine lettuce, thinly sliced RECIPE BY LARA LEE 2 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced 4 hard-boiled eggs, halved 6 Tbsp. kecap manis, divided Prawn crackers (for serving)

1. Heat ¼ cup oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook peanuts, tossing, until slightly darkened, about 1 minute. Add shallots, garlic, and chiles and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots and garlic are softened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer peanut mixture to a blender; wipe out skillet and reserve. Add 5 Tbsp. kecap manis and ⅔ cup water to blender and season with salt. Blend, thinning with more water a tablespoonful at a time if needed, until smooth and a pourable consistency. Transfer sauce to a small bowl. 2. Pat tofu dry. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium-high. Working in batches, cook tofu, adding a splash or so more of oil if pan looks dry, until golden brown in spots, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels; season with salt. Cut into about 2" long matchsticks. 3. Working one at a time, dip rice paper rounds into a large shallow bowl filled with hot water and let soak until pliable but not Prep all your roll ingredients, then enlist floppy. Transfer to a work surface a family member to and arrange 3–4 pieces of tofu, make the assembly process ¼ cup vegetables, and a heaping go by in a flash. ¼ cup lettuce horizontally across center, leaving a 2" gap on each side (be careful not to overfill). Drizzle ¼ tsp. kecap manis over. Using moistened fingers, fold sides up and over filling, then fold side nearest to you up and over filling and roll up gently but tightly. 4. Cut rolls in half on a diagonal. Arrange on plates with eggs and crackers. Serve with peanut sauce alongside for dipping.

12 – APRIL 2021

Family Meal

Warm Chicken and 4 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 3 Tbsp. raw skin-on almonds 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar Swiss Chard Salad 4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs ½ tsp. cumin seeds, crushed This is the elegant alter ego of the (about 1¼ lb.) 5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, chicken salad you find in the deli Kosher salt plus more for drizzling case, with bursts of sweet dates, 2 large bunches Swiss chard, 6 Medjool dates, pitted, briny olives, and crunchy almonds preferably rainbow (about 1 lb.) coarsely chopped RECIPE BY CHRISTIAN REYNOSO 1 large shallot, thinly sliced ⅓ cup kalamata olives, pitted, 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest coarsely chopped

Get creative by swapping in different nuts and dried fruits 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toast for the almonds and dates. almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until darkened slightly, 6–8 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop. 2. Meanwhile, season chicken with salt; set aside. Remove ribs and stems from Swiss chard leaves. Tear leaves into 3" pieces. Cut thicker ends of stems on a diagonal into 1" pieces; discard thin ends. 3. Combine shallot, lemon zest, lemon juice, vinegar, and cumin seeds in a large bowl; toss to coat. Season vinaigrette with salt. 4. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook chicken thighs, undisturbed, until golden brown underneath, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook until golden brown on other side and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board; reserve skillet with pan juices. Let chicken rest 5 minutes, then cut into 1" pieces. Whisk pan juices and 4 Tbsp. oil into vinaigrette. 5. Cook Swiss chard stems in a large pot of generously salted boiling water until slightly tender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer stems to bowl with vinaigrette; toss well. Working in batches if needed, cook Swiss chard leaves until just wilted and bright green, 15–30 seconds. Drain leaves and let cool slightly. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Separate leaves and add to vinaigrette along with dates, olives, and chicken; toss well. 6. Transfer salad to plates; drizzle with oil and top with almonds.

14 – APRIL 2021 eatbasically.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND can’t cook. no problem. Family Meal

Brothy Coconut- 4 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. honey 4 6–8-oz. skinless, boneless 2 Tbsp. yellow mustard Mustard Fish whitefish fillets (such as cod, 1 tsp. ground turmeric This recipe is inspired by the simplicity halibut, or haddock) 4 oz. green beans, asparagus, or of ilish bhapa, a Bengali dish that 2 Tbsp. melted virgin coconut oil sugar snap peas, cut into 1" pieces celebrates the prized fish hilsa, but Kosher salt ½ cup cherry tomatoes, halved you can use any firm whitefish here 1 serrano chile, thinly sliced 2 tsp. fresh lime juice RECIPE BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC 2 13.5-oz. cans unsweetened Cilantro leaves, steamed rice, and coconut milk lime wedges (for serving)

1. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and arrange fish on top. Drizzle oil over fish and season both sides with salt. Roast until flesh flakes when top is pressed with a spoon, 15–20 minutes, depending on the thickness of your pieces. 2. Meanwhile, combine chile, coconut milk, honey, mustard, and turmeric in a high-sided skillet or wide saucepan. Season generously with salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, whisking occasionally, until sauce is reduced by a third and thickly coats a spoon, 12–15 minutes. Add green beans and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add tomatoes and lime juice. Taste and season with more salt if needed. 3. Slip roast fish into sauce and top with cilantro. Serve with rice and lots of lime wedges for squeezing over.

You can also add canned chickpeas or boiled small potatoes along with the green beans.

16 – APRIL 2021 In the spring of 2020, just as the COVID-19 pandemic was taking hold, Vogue asked designers, photographers, artists, editors, and models (and a few celebrities) to reveal what their lives looked like under lockdown. The result was an extraordinary series of self-created images, interviews, and essays, now brought together in one volume. Postcards From Home marks a moment of profound change and serves as a stunning document of creativity thriving through crisis.

BY THE EDITORS OF VOGUE FOREWORD BY ANNA WINTOUR

rizzoliusa.com

Available Wherever Books Are Sold Family Meal

Mushroom- 4 SERVINGS 1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated 3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup), plus rind Farro Soup 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus ⅔ cup semi-pearled farro Multiple umami-packed ingredients more for drizzling 3 Tbsp. (or more) low-sodium (browned mushrooms, soy sauce, 1 large shallot, coarsely chopped soy sauce and a Parmesan rind) harmonize in 1 lb. mixed mushrooms (such as 4 celery stalks, thinly sliced, plus any this riff on mushroom-barley soup crimini, shiitake, oyster, and/or leaves coarsely chopped RECIPE BY ALI SLAGLE maitake), cut into bite-size pieces 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Crusty bread (for serving)

For a creamier soup, stir in an extra handful of Parm or top with a poached egg.

1. Heat garlic and 3 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium until oil around garlic is sizzling, about 1 minute. Add shallot and mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are browned, 10–15 minutes. (Initially, pot will look dry, then very wet before mushrooms start to brown.) 2. Add Parmesan rind, farro, soy sauce, and 6 cups water to pot. Scrape up any browned bits stuck to bottom of pot, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat and simmer until farro is al dente, 15–20 minutes. 3. Add sliced celery to pot and simmer until slightly softened and bright green, about 3 minutes. Remove pot from heat; add lemon juice. Taste and season with salt and/or more soy sauce if needed.

4. Divide soup among bowls and N W O top with finely grated Parmesan R B

K and celery leaves. Season with E R T more pepper and drizzle with oil. Y M ’ D

Serve with bread alongside. Y B

G N I L Y T S

D O O F

18 – APRIL 2021 JOY

ingredients Look for BelGioioso in the ½ cup sugar Deli specialty cheese case. 5 large egg yolks, lightly beaten 16 oz. BelGioioso Ricotta con Latte® Whole Milk cheese belgioioso.com/product-locator ¼ cup BelGioioso Mascarpone cheese 2 Tbsp. ﬂ our ½ tsp. baking powder 2 Tbsp. orange zest 2 tsp. Cointreau orange liqueur ¼ tsp. Kosher salt 5 large egg whites Fresh berries Powdered sugar directions Preheat oven to 350˚F. Line a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper or grease with unsalted butter. Add each of the following ingredients separately to a blender or food processor, pulsing in between each new ingredient. Start with sugar, add egg yolks, BelGioioso Ricotta con Latte®, BelGioioso Mascarpone, ﬂ our, baking powder, orange zest, Cointreau liqueur and salt. Once all ingredients have been added, blend mixture until smooth and transfer to a large mixing bowl and set aside. Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until soft peaks appear. Gently fold egg whites into ricotta mixture. Pour batter into springform pan and bake until center of cake is set, about 45-60 minutes. Allow cake to cool slightly before removing from the pan. Serve cake at room temperature topped with fresh berries and a sprinkle of powdered sugar. Healthyish

EAT WITH THE SEASONS Nature provides us with what we need during a particular season. As we transition into spring, choose produce such as leafy greens, radishes, and celery. Nettle and dandelion are astringent, cleansing herbs perfect for this moment—boil them in water to make a tea.

MORE SPICES, PLEASE Cumin, coriander, and fennel are good at aiding digestion (find my recipe for CCF tea at radhidevlukia.co), so work those into your diet regularly. And this time of year, I cook with a lot of pungent warming spices— specifically plenty of black pepper, ginger, and garam masala. They counter the cold wetness of the season, and are a balance to the elements we’re exposed to externally.

DITCH THE DEEP-FRY Just as we leave behind the heavy dampness of winter, we want to leave behind heavy, greasy cooking. Rather than deep-fry food, I focus on roasting—being mindful of the quantity of oil—or steaming. Regardless of the season, during a cleanse you’ll want to prioritize cooked foods over raw— cooking helps break down foods, jump-starting the digestive process and leaving less for your body to do.

CHOOSE OLIVE OIL When you do use oil, olive oil is a good choice because it’s light (again, to counteract the season’s heaviness), meaning it’s easy for the body to digest. I use it not only to cook but also as part of a daily Abhyanga Spring-Clean Your Body massage to help move toxins out of Everyone knows the transition out of winter inspires a deep the body. If you’re in a rush, focus on clean—here Ayurvedic chef Radhi Devlukia-Shetty shares six tips a five-minute dry scalp massage and an oil foot massage. That’s where for adapting your eating habits as the season changes too all your nerves start and end, so it’s most effective in relieving tension throughout the body. YEARS AGO THE TERM CLEANSE meant two things to me: skin-care regimens and restrictive diets. But as my perspective has expanded GET YOUR GUGGUL ON and my knowledge of Ayurveda has increased, I’ve learned that “to Ayurvedic adaptogens (herbs and roots that help the body combat stress) cleanse” can have a much deeper meaning. In Ayurveda, an ancient like guggul and triphala have lymph- health science originating in India, cleansing is a practice that gives clearing and digestive properties. the digestive system an opportunity to rest, repair itself, and clear out Mix the powder with water or fruit waste and toxins—without fasting. It can be particularly meaningful juice and sip it before bed. You can find them at banyanbotanicals.com. this time of year as we transition from cold, dark months of hibernation to the warm, bright months of growth ahead. Ayurveda generally tai- SWITCH UP YOUR GRAINS lors treatments to the individual, but here are a few cleansing tips that Wheat flour, corn, and rye are heavy grains that can weigh you down. In this should help all body types take on this next season with more energy, season of lightness, cook with quinoa, strength, immunity, and mental clarity. barley, and amaranth.

20 – APRIL 2021 PHOTOGRAPH BY REN FULLER behealthyish.com . s e b i v

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A BON APPÉTIT BRAND All on the Table

I DIDN’T GROW UP EATING BEEF STROGANOFF; I grew up The thinking about it. This was the ’80s, in a mostly white Mid- Stroganoff western town where my Vietnamese refugee family had been resettled and where I had to get used to friends calling my Effect grandmother’s food weird, smelly, and gross. They’d run As a kid all I wanted was away from her stir-fries and pho, back home to the meatloaves to figure out what American and tuna casseroles we thought were weird, smelly, and gross. meant. It took many years— But their food was everywhere and ours hadn’t yet been and many meals—to realize mainstreamed or appropriated, so I spent a lot of time trying that I already knew to figure out what American was supposed to mean. I studied by BETH NGUYEN commercials, kept track of what characters ate in the books

22 – APRIL 2021 PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN thick sauce that coated the noodles and Beef Stroganoff tasted exactly like Tara’s. I’d imagined 4 SERVINGS Sour cream can split if added her mother surrounded by complicated directly to hot liquid. Premixing with a small cookbooks, but now I understood: The amount of warm sauce before stirring into idea of fancy wasn’t theirs; it was mine. the rest keeps it smooth and creamy. The beef stroganoff of my childhood imagination was rooted in a midcentury 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Midwestern American take on a vaguely 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided Russian-French dish that might have 8 oz. crimini mushrooms, halved, been inspired by the Stroganov family, quartered if large (about 2 cups) might have been food for the wealthy or Kosher salt food for the poor. The history of stroga- 1 lb. skirt steak, cut into 4" sections noff is the history of migration, adapta- Freshly ground black pepper tion, and story making. Today you can 2 shallots, finely chopped find dozens of interpretations. Some 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped involve ground beef; some are casseroles 1 Tbsp. double-concentrated Beth Nguyen (left) with her sister, Anh with cream of mushroom soup. You can tomato paste use pasta or rice or potatoes. Beef stro- 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour I loved, like the tomato sandwiches in ganoff has so few rules you don’t have to ¼ cup dry white wine Harriet the Spy. I thought all named worry about breaking any. 2 cups (or more) low-sodium foods—Salisbury steak, chicken à la I started making my own version after beef broth king, beef stroganoff—had to be fancy. I had kids. I didn’t realize it then, but 1 tsp. (or more) fish sauce I had my first taste of stroganoff when I wanted to return to that childhood ¼ cup sour cream I was seven years old and for years after space of discovery—and make it better. Buttered cooked egg noodles and would wonder how to get back to that It took a few years to get to this recipe, sliced scallions (for serving) moment: my friend Tara’s house, so with a sauce that sometimes involves a large that it had its own formal dining demi-glace. Instead of sliced beef I pan- Heat 2 Tbsp. oil and 1 Tbsp. butter in a room, a table covered in breakable sear a larger piece to avoid overcooking. large skillet over medium-high until butter dishes, cloth napkins that Tara and her Mushrooms are quick-sautéed separately is melted. Cook mushrooms, tossing parents placed on their laps. It was win- and then added at the end. My secret occasionally, until browned and tender, ter break; garlands lined the fireplace ingredient is the same one every Viet- about 5 minutes. Season with salt, then and wound around the banisters. Under namese person has: a tiny bit of fish transfer to a plate. the Christmas tree, already-opened pres- sauce, for depth and umami. You can’t Combine 1 Tbsp. oil and remaining ents were on display. Everything about taste it, but you need it. And then a few 1 Tbsp. butter in same skillet. Season steak Tara existed in a neighborhood, a world, scissor snips of scallion over the finished generously with salt and pepper. Cook far from what my sister and I knew. dish. This beef stroganoff would be until well browned, 3–4 minutes per side Invited to spend the day, we kept look- unrecognizable to my seven-year-old for medium-rare, depending on thickness. ing at each other for clues: How were we self, but it will always connect me to her. Transfer to another plate; wipe out skillet. supposed to behave? I don’t remember what happened to Reduce heat to medium and pour At home with our family, dinner was Tara, if she moved away or if we stopped remaining 1 Tbsp. oil into pan. Cook a free-for-all. The rice was kept warm in being friends; my sister and I were never shallots, stirring often, until softened, about its cooker. The only time I used a napkin invited back to her house. But on chilly 2 minutes. Add garlic; cook, stirring, until was when I spilled something. My sister days when beef stroganoff sounds com- softened, about 1 minute. Add tomato and I loved our grandmother’s bò kho, forting, I think about her and that meal at paste and cook, stirring constantly, until beef stew with hints of star anise, and her house. I spent so much of my child- slightly darkened in color, about 2 minutes. bún bò, lemongrass beef with rice noo- hood trying to discern the unspoken stan- Add flour and cook, stirring often to coat dles. But at Tara’s house we sat down to dards of American life, not realizing shallots and garlic, until toasty smelling, yellow egg noodles slicked with a gravy that I could be part of the conversation about 3 minutes. Add wine; cook, scraping of beef cubes. I’d never had such a thing too. That my family already was. That we up browned bits, until evaporated, about before. It looked straight out of a com- can use the same ingredients to make 1 minute. Add broth, fish sauce, and any mercial, and for a moment I pretended wildly different dinners and maybe try liquid from mushrooms (leave mushrooms I was in one, trying to memorize the something new. Cooking, after all, is behind). Bring to a boil over high heat, then

N salty silkiness of the sauce in case I never about hope and learning. In the kitchen reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, W O

R got to taste it again. I’m not thinking about being Vietnamese until sauce coats a spoon, 12–15 minutes. B

E Not until college did I discover pack- or American. I’m thinking about time Slice steak against the grain. Place R T Y ets of noodles labeled “stroganoff” at and timing, the efforts made and the risks sour cream in a small heatproof bowl and M ’ D

Y the grocery store. All I had to do was taken. I’m hoping that the thing I make gradually whisk in 1 cup sauce. Stir back B

G boil water, milk, and butter, then pour in will be good enough to remember. into sauce in skillet. Taste and season with N I L

Y the noodles and powdered sauce. Add

T more salt or fish sauce if needed. Stir in S

D your own beef, the directions encour- Beth Nguyen is the author of two novels and mushrooms. Serve sauce over noodles, O O

F aged, but even without it you’d get a the memoir, ‘Stealing Buddha’s Dinner.’ topped with steak and scallions.

APRIL 2021 – 23 Shop Tour

You Can Take It With You At Baltimore’s Good Neighbor, owners Shawn Chopra and Anne Morgan cultivate community with locally crafted housewares and creative café snacks to go interview by EMMA ORLOW

“We started selling our house-made tahini butter and raspberry- ajwain jam because people kept asking to bring home our chef Durian Keepwell Ginger Neal’s take Vinegar “This vinegar on a PB&J.” brand ferments with GOOD NEIGHBOR local ingredients. Find these picks TAHINI AND JAM We put it in cocktails and more at $7 (JAM); and dressings for goodneighborshop.com $11 (TAHINI) our ‘Chaat Hour’ events.” $15

Normann “We’re about Copenhagen Whisk highlighting “This lightweight local talent but yet strong whisk is also introducing well designed: The collapsible loops brands to are easy to clean Baltimore, like and make it easy the Pasadena, to store in a kitchen drawer.” $20 California–based

Slowdown K Hon’s Honey O O B Studio. Each “This raw honey is E C R

print or textile is made by a Baltimore U O S

company that E

supports and employs , S L different artist.” I women escaping sex A T E D SAKAMOTO THROW trafficking, addiction, R O

$230 and poverty.” $16 F

24 – APRIL 2021 PHOTOGRAPHS BY KATE GREWAL Dish Decoded

California Pizza Kitchen Everything about Brandoni Pepperoni’s pizzas screams Los Angeles, from the farmers market ingredients to the West Coast hip-hop-inspired names. Case in point: chef Brandon Gray’s perennially popular Colors pie by ELYSE INAMINE

The Dough Like many iconic hip-hop tracks, this dough is all about collaboration. Gray hit up chefs and pandemic bakers for advice, and the result is a pizza with the right amount of crackle and chew, plus extra wheaty flavor from locally milled Rouge de Bordeaux flour.

The Sauce Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes are cooked down with dried oregano and thyme, “the best garlic in the world” from Milliken Family Farms in Santa Barbara, and Thai chile powder. “It adds a unique spiciness and a smoky vibe,” Gray says.

The Veg Gray goes for the leafiest broccolini from Coleman Family Farms in nearby Carpinteria. “The leaves crisp up like chips in the oven,” he explains.

The Sausage “This is my interpretation of Jimmy Dean’s breakfast sausage,” Gray shares. “I grew up on it.” Maple syrup gives this porky mix a nostalgic sweetness.

The Cheese Gray ventured beyond state lines for Grande, the “crème de la crème” of mozzarella made in Wisconsin.

The Finishing Touches Yellow broccolini flowers echo the veg’s bitterness, while cucumber-like purple borage mellows it, a battle of flavors fit for a pie named after the famed Ice-T song.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DYLAN + JENI APRIL 2021 – 27 Sweet Spot

A Cake for All Occasions Whether it’s topping off Easter brunch or delighting as a midnight treat, Sarah Jampel’s strawberry-studded snacking cake never disappoints

High-quality jam, in addition to fresh fruit, makes a difference—Jampel recommends Bonne Maman Intense because it’s got less sugar, which translates into a deeper fruity flavor.

28 – APRIL 2021 Strawberry Snacking Cake MAKES ONE 13X9" CAKE Don’t be surprised at how quickly this olive-oil- and-cornmeal-enriched sheet cake will disappear. The strawberry flavor comes from a swirl of jam and a pretty layer of sliced berries on top.

8 oz. strawberries, hulled, thinly sliced lengthwise 3 Tbsp. plus 1 cup (238 g) sugar, divided; plus more for pan 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour ½ cup (60 g) fine-ground cornmeal ½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda 3 large eggs 2 large egg yolks ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sour cream Zest of 2 lemons 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. vanilla extract ½ cup strawberry jam (preferably Bonne Maman Intense)

Preheat oven to 350°. Gently toss strawberries, 1 Tbsp. sugar, and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Let sit, tossing occasionally, until ready to use. Lightly coat a 13x9" pan with oil. Line with parchment paper, leaving overhang on long sides. Coat parchment with oil. Generously sprinkle pan with sugar and tilt pan to coat evenly; tap out excess. Whisk flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, 1 cup sugar, and 1 tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Whisk eggs, egg yolks, sour cream, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla in a large bowl. Add dry ingredients and whisk gently to combine. Gradually add ¾ cup oil, folding in with a rubber spatula until incorporated and batter is smooth. Scrape batter into prepared pan and spread evenly to edges; smooth surface. Using a small spoon, dollop jam on top. Gently swirl jam into batter with a butter knife. Arrange strawberries on top in even rows, then sprinkle all over with remaining 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake cake until golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes

N Y out clean, 40–45 minutes. Let cake cool B

W G O in pan before slicing. R N I B L

Y DO AHEAD: K Cake can be baked T E S R

T D

Y 4 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at O M ’ O

F D room temperature.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN The Pour

Can Do! Canned cocktails

are everywhere, but are 2 any of them good? by ALEX DELANY 3

IF YOU’VE SEEN the shelves at any liquor store, millennial- targeted TV spots, or creepy Instagram advertising campaigns, you’ve probably noticed that canned cocktails are everywhere. So in preparation for socially distanced picnics, we’ve cracked can after can in search of the ones 4 that stand out above the rest. Here’s what we learned about how to buy the beverage of the season.

SIMPLE, CLASSIC COCKTAILS ARE USUALLY A SAFE BET. We’re talking stirred cocktails made with liquor and a sweetening 3. Tip Top agent—like an old-fashioned or Negroni a Negroni. The general rule of The bitter, sweet, thumb: The simpler (and boozier) and citrusy Italian the cocktail, the better it’s bound classic delivered to taste from a can. in a tiny can. $32 for eight cans; tiptopcocktails.com IF IT’S GOT CITRUS, 1. Cardinal APPROACH WITH CAUTION. Spirits 4. Golden 5 Fresh citrus juice’s signature bright Vodka Soda Rule Margarita and tart flavor can turn soapy This drink is perfect An actually-good and bitter the longer it sits, as a bubbly base for canned margarita making it tricky to buy quality everything from that balances palomas or margaritas (though puréed mango to tart and sweet. we’d happily guzzle Golden a squeeze of lime. $20 per four-pack; Rule’s margarita, at right). $4 per can; warehouse goldenrulespirits.com winesandspirits.com 5. Empirical A CUTE LABEL ISN’T 2. Don Ciccio Spirits Can 02 EVERYTHING. Lots of companies e Figli La Perla A bit effervescent, have figured out how to brand utterly drinkable, . Ambrosia Spritz K a canned cocktail. But when and made from O Take the refreshing O B it comes to what’s inside, the tips vibe that spritz a beet molasses E C R above will serve you more than season demands just and Belgian saison U O S a pretty label—though the five cans yeast spirit (wow!).

about anywhere. E E S

at right just so happen to look $25 per four-pack; $45 per four-pack; , S L us.empirical.co I

as good as they taste. donciccioefigli.com A T E D

R O F

30 – APRIL 2021 PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN eatbasically.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND can’t cook. no problem. The Read

Grains of Wisdom Rice can be so many things to so many people. For me, it’s a constant reminder of where I came from by MIGUEL DE LEON

YOU HAVE TO COMMIT TO A BAG OF RICE. And I’m When I was about eight years old, my grandmother not talking about the small, microwaveable, single- taught me how to cook rice on the stove, fearing for serving disasters in a pouch—I mean the big 50-pound- my future independence and self-sufficiency: “God ers that are always near the registers at grocery stores forbid the rice cooker blow up!” She took me to the like Seafood City or 99 Ranch, the ones that you have bright green plastic barrel where we kept the grains. to put in a rice dispenser, a de rigueur piece of furniture I could barely see over it; I ran my hand through the in Asian households. rice. She encouraged me to feel how cool the rice was Growing up in the Philippines, we ate rice with every on my fingers, how my hands were covered in a powdery meal. Every day we had to decide what to eat with it. silt that smelled musty and sweet. “This,” I remember Heady aromas of the grains cooking in the pot suffused her saying, “is all you need.” the kitchen whenever my grandmother cooked, sup- She had shown me how to clean the dry rice, remov- ported wonderfully by whatever she found in the wet ing leftover husks and small pebbles, and how to clean market that morning, whether it was dílis, small ancho- the rice when wet, rinsing it again and again until the vies she would fry with chile and sugar, or ampalayá, water runs clear and it feels like big grains of sand bitter melon sautéed with pork and fish sauce. Some that just barely hold together. She drained the pot, days, just a bowl of rice was sufficient. set it on top of the stove, and gifted me the magic

32 – APRIL 2021 ILLUSTRATIONS BY SOPHI MIYOKO GULLBRANTS

. d n a l r e z t i w S

, y e v e V

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l cooking method: pour water over t s e the rice until it’s a knuckle’s length N

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T eyes. With a simple vessel, she taught me how to turn humble rice into a porridge called lúgaw, how to fry it with garlic for sinangág, and, most important, how to cherish something deceptively mundane as a source of such comfort. She had nothing to worry about.

MOVED TO THE United i States without papers when I was 10 years old, accent heavy and loaded with culture shock. From metro Manila to the insidious wholesomeness that was suburban Orange County, California, I maneuvered my newly found Amer- ican-ness through my Jesuit upbring- ing, apologizing at almost every turn Shiny& for how Filipino I was presenting. My palate shifted and grew as I ate increasing amounts of Very American Food, things that I grew up seeing in movies and magazines: peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, chocolate milk, square pizzas, ranch dressing. Almost every immigrant kid has the shameful food experience of unpacking lunch that at home is trea- sured culturally but to other kids smells weird or looks bad. To avoid that shame, I would buy Lunchables, cheeseburgers, and french fries at school, careful to navigate my ado- lescence by keeping my Filipino food and rice at home. Despite my efforts at assimilation, I didn’t feel fully American, because I still ate Very Filipino Dinners, where rice was always present. Though rice became In just days. a reminder of a place that I would never again call home, I also never You can make a healthy difference with felt more like myself eating it. natural ingredients in powerful combinations. A warm bowl tastes like how a hug ONE visibly healthy pet. feels, the nostalgic fragrance placing me in my grandmother’s kitchen, ONE28DayChallenge.com thousands of miles and too many years away. The Read TRY THESE NEW PURINA ONE TRUE INSTINCT My mother and I would study memories it evokes. The ethereal tex- American history together, she for ture of the dreamiest risottos, the FORMULAS her citizenship test and myself for cozy feeling of enjoying rice in broth my civics classes, our sessions forti- when there’s a chill outside, the earthy fied by Filipino food as the orange flavor coating each grain when stuffed light of the rice cooker glowed in the into juicy squab, my sense of nostalgia background. After my mother earned when as pudding, rice is bathed in her citizenship, I also became natural- cream and sugar. ized but still felt uncomfortable at My career led me even further the prospect of having to describe afield. At Momofuku, there was a dish my future self as an American. that tipped its hat to halal cart chicken Eventually, I applied to colleges. and rice. At Casa Mono, we offered a I was worried about having to intro- take on paella as croquetas. These duce myself over and over again to days at Manhattan’s Pinch, where

She encouraged me to feel how cool the rice was on my fingers, how my hands were covered in a powdery silt that smelled musty and sweet. “This,” I remember her saying, “is all you need.” people, and about disappointing my I am the wine director, I see countless grandmother by only eating the bowls of rice fried Shanghainese-style, unlimited breakfast cereal offered at glossy from a touch of oil, hiding suc- NEW! the dining commons and gaining the culent bites of octopus and scallop. full Freshman 15 in a month. Fueled Whether jasmine, basmati, or myriad by these fears of pending collegiate other grains, rice at every restaurant life, I asked my mother to teach me I’ve worked doesn’t just look different. how to cook. I learned there were no It tastes different, feels different. I take precise details, nothing recorded solace in celebrating these differences. down to the ounce. She never lin- Rice nourishes me in as many ways gered over measurements such as as there are grains in a bowl. It con- quarter-cups and eighth-teaspoons. nects me to my island ties, and under- Like my grandmother before her, she standing how to make it, how to enjoy had her own lessons to impart about the simplest versions, honors the rice, encouraging me to listen for memory of my grandmother and her when the rapid bubbling subsided lessons in independence. I’ve only before I opened the lid of the pot. Not recently become comfortable calling a spot of ink was spent on the minu- myself an American despite living tiae of cooking—just use your senses here for more than 25 years, and even to make sure that your cooking more recently become comfortable in doesn’t become waste, or worse, my Filipino-ness, though it’s always something that is work to eat. Trust, been a part of me. I’ve worried so it turns out, lives in your gut. much about my own assimilation that sometimes I’ve forgotten why I wor- HROUGHOUT COLLEGE ried in the first place. I still rinse my t I lived off of rice—it was rice the same way, still measure the cheap and easy to dress water with my knuckle just like my up, and I could make a ton of it—until grandmother instructed. I still listen I miraculously got a job as a reser- to the pot like my mom taught me. vationist at a small restaurant in I still revel in the comfort of the first Berkeley called Chez Panisse. Cooks bite from a warm bowl. And I still Purina ONE® True Instinct from different cultures lovingly made commit to the big bag of rice. the family meal using leftover rice See the healthy difference from the previous service, so coupled Miguel de Leon is a wine natural, protein-rich nutrition with my ever growing curiosity and professional in New York City and can make. appetite, I explored the grain’s tex- editor in chief of ‘Disgorgeous,’ tures, the myriad ways to cook it, the a zine and podcast about wine. A Year That Changed Food Forever Fifty years ago MCDONALD’S introduced the Quarter Pounder. A little shop called STARBUCKS opened in Seattle. FEDEX launched, making cross-country food shipments easy and fast. CHEZ PANISSE welcomed its first diners, igniting a national interest in local food. How did all this impact the way we eat today?

recipes by VICTORIA GRANOF and CHRIS MOROCCO

photographs by ALEX LAU

Leek and Artichoke Fondue P. 52

Fondue was the subject of many, many magazine stories in 1971. A spread in Essence showed actor Diana Sands entertaining friends on her shag carpeting around a fondue pot. To keep this modern goat cheese and Bel Paese version warm, our creative director Michele Outland bought this “poppy”- colored Oster electric fondue pot on Poshmark. It came with recipes for “hot cheese dunk” and “mini-frank fondue.” 1971, pioneering women wrote new chapters in American culinary history. Edna Lewis had just finished her first cookbook, The Edna Lewis Cookbook. It was a seminal moment in a career that so validated Southern cooking that “Lewis acquired a cult following among chefs and writers determined to revive the lost glories of the region’s table,” wrote Wendell Brock in the Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Meanwhile, Alice Waters, arguably the most influential restaurateur of the last half century, opened Chez Panisse, a celebration of local produce that lifted American cuisine out of Europe’s shadow. “Alice’s legacy is enormous: She literally changed the way this country eats,” says food writer Ruth Reichl. It was a fitting pair of achievements for a year that also saw the founding of the National Women’s Political Caucus, the first group devoted exclusively to increasing women’s political participation, by figures including Shirley Chisholm and Gloria Steinem. That same year Frances Moore Lappé published Diet for a Small Planet, a rallying cry for a meatless diet as The Year a way to preserve the environment. The book was an influential moment in a decade filled with some of the in Food We dove into the archives, flipped most significant environmental legislation in our through moldy magazines, and watched country’s history. The anti–Vietnam War movement way too many Hamburger Helper was in full swing. Counterculture had gone mainstream commercials to bring you a sampling of on both coasts and was starting to pop up in Middle 1971’s biggest moments America. The voting age was lowered from 21 to 18, a response to the 18-year-olds who were being sent by ALEX BEGGS

to Vietnam to die—and kill—for a cause obfuscated

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Norman Lear’s debut of All in the Family nudged white Eventually, the store would C first—and perhaps only— T O O

H change ownership; the S S Americans to confront their prejudices—or so it was P E

movie to be produced by Y V K I mermaid mascot would M C H hoped. Marvin Gaye released the juggernaut What’s a food corporation, A L O C T A lose her belly button; and R S /

Quaker Oats, which A

Going On, an interrogation of police brutality that is Y S E L

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launched two candy bars I A P L

devastatingly relevant today. M O

the latte-slinging $26.7 A T L

alongside the film’s / S A I S R R Fifty years later, so many of the ideas, tastes, E

billion publicly traded E V H

release. Willy Wonka I N C H E global Goliath it is today. B brands, and technology introduced in 1971 are integral C G Super Skrunch Bars and

; R ) E A A H D K to our lives. If you’ve tasted a Frappuccino or a Willy Wonka Peanut Butter T

N Y S O O

Oompas never made E Quarter Pounder, if you’ve kicked back with a frozen Margaritas 2.0 R T T W R

E R Y a profit, though, probably U

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because they were basically W ;

when restaurant owner ( R

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the same flavor and not P

Mariano Martinez’s A N P M E embraced a slow cooker or slurped some Cup L K at all based on candy in M customers complained that / N S O E A C

O’Noodles, you’ve felt the impact of 1971. And as we the movie. Oompa oops! R G

his margaritas weren’t cold F A

A L D O M I continue to confront many of the same challenges our enough—one of life’s N

C A - Y

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Cuppa Capitalism bigger letdowns. Martinez T E C nation then faced, there is much to learn by looking E P L O G

E C In 1971 a mug of coffee fashioned the first frozen :

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at the newly opened T

A G Y even a song can forever alter our landscape. Which R R S

Starbucks in Seattle cost a soft-serve machine, and G U E T B O R begs the question: What will the next 50 years bring? T M a whopping…nothing. The the rest is history. Literally. U O A O H H P C —ALEKSANDRA CRAPANZANO samples seduced customers It’s in the Smithsonian. ( You’ve Got Mail Chart-topping Manly Soup FedEx was founded in Cookbooks HE COOKS! was the 1971, and its unheard-of Cookbook sales were name of a recurring overnight shipping so high this year—the column in Better Homes soon made it possible for Julia Child, post–WW II and Gardens. (“We want anyone (with the effect—that one recipes that YOU—the funds) to order California newspaper hyperbolized man-of-the-house— citrus and Memphis they “probably outsold prepare yourself.”) barbecue overnight. the Bible…for the first Men were cooking more time in publishing history.” at home, notes historian The top seller was the Helen Veit, even if that plaid-covered Better meant just opening Homes and Gardens a can of soup: Products Peace, Love, Caffeine cookbook (first published like Campbell’s Coca-Cola debuted its “I’d Like to Buy the World a in 1930), which outsold “Manhandlers” (the Coke” commercial, a subtly subversive call for peace the top best-selling regular soups, but chunky) during the Vietnam War wrapped in a catchy tune that’s fiction and nonfiction helped rake in the now stuck in your head. Things are a little more overt now books combined, with company’s first billion (see Kendall Jenner x Pepsi circa 2017). over 600,000 copies. dollars that year.

companies were like, “but for frozen foods, but they Chocolate Vitamins vitamins!” I’ll let you guess still weren’t mandatory. General Mills bestowed who won that one. A slow fight for required the world with two nutrition labels began, “vitamin-charged” Recall the Recalls though victory wouldn’t cereals: Count Chocula After reports of tainted come until the ’90s. and Franken Berry, while canned vichyssoise Post gave us Cocoa and (botulism!), boxed Fruity Pebbles. Meanwhile, cornmeal, and whipped consumer advocates were cream, there were calls for testifying before Congress more FDA oversight of the about cereal’s high sugar food industry. In December content and lack of 1971 the FDA passed the nutritional value. The cereal first “nutrition guidelines”

Meanwhile, in Japan Osaka-born “Cup Noodles” were the first instant ramen in cup form and arrived in the U.S. two years later as “Cup O’Noodles,” soon dominating the dry soup–mix market. Inventor Momofuku Ando’s name A Hamburglar Is Born lives on in David Chang’s McDonald’s introduced the Quarter Pounder, Momofuku restaurants, the characters of McDonaldland—the Hamburglar, which serve the opposite of Grimace, etc.—and PlayPlaces, all part of an evil-brilliant instant ramen (the broth ad campaign based on a study that revealed how takes 8–10 hours to make). influential children were in deciding where a family ate.

THAT’S A WRAP ENDEAVORS IN BACON Reveal’s “roasting wrap” Redbook tried to convince didn’t last long after its readers that sterling 1971 debut. Perhaps silver bacon forks were because it was essentially a thing, while the plastic wrap you, uh, put Baconer, a bacon-only in the oven. toaster, tried to contain the scent of bacon. Why?! DEPT. IS IT CARDBOARD? Just Add Beef OF RIP Kellogg’s Presto Pizza, TATER TOSS-UP Hamburger Helper hit store shelves with perfect timing: They can’t all be a mysteriously shelf- Crisp-i-Taters, “potato Food prices were high due to post-Vietnam inflation and winners. Some 1971 stable pizza-filled Pop- chip taste with a french the boxed mix helped stretch a pound of ground beef. kitchen innovations Tart, was, frankly, ahead fry shape,” were the least Sales took off. But don’t get us started on the four-fingered never quite took off. of its time. of both worlds. 1977-born mascot, Lefty, who still haunts our dreams. What Edna Lewis Taught Me In 1971 the iconic chef finished writing her first book, The Edna Lewis Cookbook. Here, friends and protégés reflect on her lasting impact

ALEXANDER SMALLS SCOTT PEACOCK chef and restaurateur chef and restaurateur

The first time I met Edna Before I met Edna Lewis, I thought There we spent an entire day wander- Lewis, I was at a crossroads. the South was something to recover ing her favorite haunts. It was magical, I was a young opera singer, from. I was eager to put my Alabama but I began to notice a pattern: Drinking childhood behind me, to forget summers coffee at Dean & DeLuca, she’d say, “It’s but I’d hit a glass ceiling, a spent picking peas in fields of hard red real good, but no better than my grand- certain level that was difficult clay. And though my Grandmaw Pea- father’s.” Eating duck confit at Gotham for African American men to cock’s stewed-till-sticky chicken and rice Bar & Grill: “Well, duck is real South- go beyond. And food was my remains one of the most transcendent ern.” Every sublime culinary experience great love. dishes I’ve eaten, I was eager to escape New York could offer was interrupted her too. Uneducated and poor, my with some kind of Southern comparison Edna told me, “Well, you grandmother was a struggling share- or connection. have to do what your heart is cropper’s wife whose only bathroom for Initially, I felt unable to make peace telling you.” My heart was much of my childhood was an outhouse. with her obsession. Cooking was sup- telling me to set the table for Southern cooking and culture were posed to be my escape. But the next day I the world. To do what she did. stereotyped punch lines for most of the was struck with a vivid realization: The To show people that the 20th century: overcooked, lard-laced things I admired about Italian cooking— and “less than,” in need of gussying up. a cuisine built upon the short distance African American kitchen is as Even the proudest Southerners, extol- from field to table, where ingredients important—if not more so—as ling with misty-eyed fervor the glory of are always fresh and seasonal—had any. “Well, it sounds like their mother’s hot water corn pone, felt nothing on my father and his edicts that you’ve made up your mind,” the need to qualify it: “Now, she wasn’t okra be cut twice a day and corn eaten she said. And that was all the any fancy cook; she was just a good ol’ within hours of harvest or not at all. Southern cook.” I’d relied on cooking to get some- affirmation I needed. I was in second grade in 1971, when where else, but what Miss Lewis was try- Five restaurants later I know Miss Lewis finished writing the epony- ing to show me was that I had no reason that what Edna gave me were mous cookbook she’d publish the follow- to apologize for where I already was. clear principles. Because of ing year. But I didn’t meet her until 1989, Writing about her childhood in Free- her philosophy I was able when I was working as a chef for the gov- town, Virginia—a small rural settlement to articulate my own: one of ernor of Georgia and she at Brooklyn’s founded by her formerly enslaved Gage & Tollner. Nervous and eager to grandfather—she found no shame or excellence and respect, of make an impression on this majestic need to escape. Only integrity, dignity, honoring the traditions you woman, I told her about my job. “Oh, a and value. come from and the ancestors chef,” she said. “Where did you go to From then on I dedicated myself to you represent. She brought cooking school?” My face flushed. I the food of the American South. At my cooking into a learned space hadn’t. “Great,” she replied. “Let’s go restaurants there was no gussying up— have a drink!” only a distillation of the dishes we both and talked about it like the For the next half hour we sipped mint loved: buttermilk biscuits, sweet pickles, Europeans did, but in an juleps and talked nonstop about the roast duck. Our friendship continued to American vernacular coming importance of vegetables grown from grow and eventually she moved to out of the African American open-pollinated seed and her love of wild Atlanta, where we lived together for the farming experience. It wasn’t blackberries and turtle soup. Then I told last seven years of her life. Miss Lewis her my dream of moving to Italy and she saw my essence and helped me distill it, presented as “ethnic.” grew serious. “I love Italian food too,” she even when I didn’t realize what it was. It wasn’t dumbed down. said, “but you should really learn about One day, still early in my journey, I She laid a real foundation, your own cooking before running off to had to make a dessert for a magazine. a consciousness for the study someone else’s.” My face burned. I decided on one inspired by Grandmaw American chef. I mean, if you A year later Miss Lewis returned to Peacock’s 15-layer cake with boiled choc- can’t build on that platform, Atlanta for a festival and I became her olate frosting and FedExed a slice to New assistant. As we shopped and cooked, a York to get Miss Lewis’s opinion. maybe you need to go into friendship slowly took hold. Enough so She called me back the next day. computer science. that a few months later she invited me to “I only have one suggestion to make,” —AS TOLD TO HILARY CADIGAN visit her in Manhattan. she said. “Don’t change a thing.” April 13 would be Edna Lewis’s 105th birthday!

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. THE ONLY TRUE LOVERS ARE CHEFS OR HAPPY BIRTHDAY EDNA LEWIS T

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GUTTER GUTTER A Movement, pot-smoking counterculture to search out unfamiliar Still in Motion ingredients, sparking a food The book Diet for a Small Planet was more than co-op boom. Lappé was not without her a hippie by-product. It was a revolution critics, who zeroed in on one of by JONATHAN KAUFFMAN her first edition’s core concepts: the now disputed idea that in order to replicate the perfect When Frances Moore and nutritional studies. She Lappé she shouldn’t just tell balance of amino acids in meat Lappé called cattle “a protein calculated that hunger wasn’t people about hunger. She had and eggs, we had to pair factory in reverse” in her 1971 caused by a scarcity of food. to show them how to feed “complementary proteins” in, book Diet for a Small Planet, It was a problem of food themselves. So Lappé enlisted for example, grains and beans. she wasn’t just arguing that distribution. If we grew crops her friend Ellen Buchman (It was based on science that meat was an inefficient way to for humans instead of for Ewald to help transform a quickly evolved past the studies feed humans, though it is. Nor livestock, ethanol, or high- manifesto into a cookbook. she cited.) But Diet’s message is did she set out to turn millions fructose corn syrup, the Diet for a Small Planet just as trenchant now as it was of Americans vegetarian and United States alone could came out the very year the 50 years ago, especially as climate help the natural foods feed every famine-afflicted natural foods movement took change and soil degradation movement find its political person on earth. off. Lappé’s generation threaten our food supply. Today voice, though she did. For the “I was so excited,” she says rejected the industrially the book’s echoes infuse 26-year-old researcher, Diet now. “We’re creating hunger. produced, chemical-infused Impossible Burger press was an act of radical hope. So we can end it. There’s foods that dominated releases and UN reports alike. From 1968 to 1971 young nothing inevitable about that.” American grocery stores, “Choosing a plant-centered Americans like Lappé had She was convinced instead cobbling together a diet doesn’t change the world, witnessed the assassinations everyone would want to hear mishmash diet: the brown but it changes me,” Lappé says. of Martin Luther King Jr. and such good news, so she wrote rice and tamari that “Change is not based on Robert Kennedy, civil unrest up a one-page flyer and macrobiotic practitioners individual acts alone, but that ripped through dozens distributed it around Berkeley. loved; wheat germ and without those acts, how can we of cities, and the violent That turned into a booklet sprouts from tiny health food believe that it’s possible?” suppression of activists like and then, after someone stores; granola invented by the Black Panthers and the forwarded it to Ballantine Seventh-day Adventists. But The 50th anniversary edition Kent State protesters. The Books, into the first edition of the recipes (Nutty Noodle of ‘Diet for a Small Planet’ futile carnage of the Vietnam Diet for a Small Planet. When Casserole, Garbanzo Cheese drops in September, with new War was endless, and their Betty Ballantine bought the Salad) inspired folks with no recipes from José Andrés, Bryant generation were the ones book, the publisher told interest in the long-haired, Terry, Alice Waters, and more. killing and dying. Yet this generation, weaned on the civil rights movement and President Johnson’s War on Poverty, were caught up too in the intoxicating possibility of change. After graduating college Lappé worked as a community organizer in Philly. Then she moved to California and enrolled in UC Berkeley’s School of Social Welfare but dropped out, convinced it was pointless to try to alleviate poverty and hunger if we couldn’t identify their causes. One of the ambient stories circulating at the time was that Earth was so overpopulated it could no longer feed itself. So Lappé descended into Berkeley’s Agricultural Economics Library, armed with a slide rule, to analyze crop reports

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAY HICKSON TAPATÍO’S TRIUMPH How a Mexican immigrant built a hot sauce empire against all odds by STEVEN ALVAREZ

Vernon, California, 1971: Jose-Luis Saavedra was having a hard run selling his spicy bottled Cuervo Sauce. Then Jose Cuervo (yes, that one), despite being a distant relation of Saavedra’s wife, sent a cease and desist letter. The run was done. But in MY SALAD, between working two jobs, a determined Saavedra MYSELF rebranded as “Charro,” replacing the cuervo (crow) Fifty years after Chicago on the logo with a traditional central Mexican restaurant R.J. Grunts popularized horseman in a wide-brimmed sombrero. New name, the salad bar, we still ponder its new look, same peppery hot sauce. Things were deepest questions looking good (10,000 labels printed!) until the poor by SAMANTHA IRBY man was sued again for copyright infringement. But Saavedra would not accept defeat; he rebranded once more to “Tapatío,” a nickname for folks from the “What kind of person am I going to be today?” I think to myself as I sidle up to the salad city of Guadalajara, where his children were born. bar at the local Overpriced Fresh Vegetable The combination of the new new name with the Emporium, my single seltzer (do I wish it was a dignified charro image—as opposed to the kinds of Diet Coke? I absolutely do, but they don’t sell stereotype-laden caricatures so often seen on food those here) and modestly sized square of healthy dark chocolate (revolting!) rolling around my packaging at the time—was a genius marketing move basket. Salad bars offer the opportunity to for connecting with Mexican and Mexican American reinvent yourself for the time it takes to wolf down communities, and brought Tapatío into the hot sauce a bowl of damp lettuce while hunched over your sink or your desk or wherever lonely people eat. “mainstream.” Today the effects of Saavedra’s The possibilities are endless! Am I healthy today? success are clear, in a Fortune 500 kind of way: Do I give a sh*t about being alive? Do I spend Tapatío is distributed by the Kraft Heinz Company. half a paycheck on minerals and fiber when my doctor isn’t even around to give his approval, or should I just buy three pounds of croutons with organic ranch poured over them, which is what I actually want to eat? Am I a marinated artichoke person? Should I pretend to be interested in beets? Do I care about vitamin K? And a follow-up: Do I care enough about vitamin K to spend $14 on an environmentally friendly (read: rapidly disintegrating) clamshell filled with the kind of dark leafy greens magazines are always insisting I try? Is that guy peering skeptically through

O Í

T the sneeze guard judging how many scoops of A P

A chickpeas I’m getting? How much meat and T

O cheese disqualifies this from being labeled a

Y S

E "salad"? Do I like nuts on salad or do I just like the T R

U idea of nuts on salad? Do I have enough money O C

in my checking account to risk this much herb- ; ) R

A roasted salmon? Why do bacon bits taste like B

D burnt charcoal and why can’t I stop myself from A L A

S sprinkling them on everything? Hang on, what (

T was that NPR thing about phytonutrients from the N I P

other day? If I use as much of this dressing as I I L A

J want to, will the cashier think I don’t love myself? N A

: Hang on, should I actually get the nuts? Or should S H

P I just time travel back to 1971, when salad bars A R

G were new and cool and no one cared how much O T shredded cheese and Thousand Island you O H

P dumped on your watery iceberg lettuce??? ALEX The KIM Takibi, Portland, Enduring OR

2016–2020 Influence SYLVAN Sanctuary, Oakland MISHIMA “Sanctuary is on the same page of activism BRACKETT as Chez Panisse but going in a very of Chez 2001–2008 specific direction. Chez Panisse was a hub Rintaro, San connecting farmers and cooks. At Francisco Sanctuary we’re providing a community space for Black rest and safety where Panisse people can have a good time and eat.” ➽ Educational. Demanding. Magical. These words come up DEBORAH again and again among the MADISON 1977–78, ‘86–’88 past employees of Chez Panisse, Cookbook author arguably the most influential and formerly of American restaurant in history. Greens, San Francisco Alice Waters opened the Berkeley, California, café in August 1971, making simple JEREMIAH TOWER food with local ingredients. 1973 –1978 Though “farm to table” is now Formerly of Stars Restaurant STEVE SULLIVAN so common it’s a cliché, at the 1975–1983 time a restaurant like this was Acme Bread Co., Berkeley novel, and so was her way “Chez Panisse was set up to benefit employees as much as the business, of running it: paying farmers a with paid vacation time and health premium for their best produce, PEGGY insurance. When we started Acme SMITH Bread Co., this was baked into our changing the menu daily, 1980–1997 notions of operating a business.” giving employees higher than Cowgirl Creamery, Point usual wages—and vacation Reyes Station, time—and encouraging them CA to trust their intuition. The impact of working at this one little restaurant has been huge. Alums JONATHAN went on to chart their own path WAXMAN with that same ingredient-driven, 1978–1979 Barbuto, NYC community-focused spirit. Here “Alice taught is just a small wedge of the Chez me to trust Panisse universe, showing the myself, even chefs, authors, bakers, and more though who have in turn shaped a I didn’t.” AMY YI MICHAEL AND Genuine Foods, new generation of food industry TARA GALLINA

NYC leaders. —ELYSE INAMINE Vicia, St. Louis ; N . A “Justin [Smillie] K O M R

“So much of what we O

pushed me to think A B K E

C about cooking learned from Dan Barber at U R O U J

KEY as a craft. Now I O Stone Barns seemed B

I’m training food- Y E B

connected to Chez Panisse. E S S

service workers , N S L O

Like letting farmers push I worked worked worked how to prep meals I T A T directly together together JUSTIN A E for schools.” your cuisine—you don’t R T D

at Chez outside at Chez S SMILLIE R U L

order what you want but use O L I Panisse of Chez Panisse Il Buco F Panisse Alimentari e what they’re growing.” Vineria, NYC JESSICA MONCADA 2005–2010 Alkali Rye, Oakland DAVID TANIS “There was an 1981–2011 emphasis on where VIVIAN KU Cookbook author vegetables came 2010–2011 and ‘New York Times’ Joy, L.A. columnist from at Chez Panisse. “Chez Panisse was part of Now when I buy a community with multiple mezcal for my shop, stakeholders. We donate proceeds I’m thinking about from our cookie sales to a different nonprofit each DOMINICA RICE where it’s from, month to give back to a community 1998–2004 who grows it, what’s that’s given us so much.” Cosecha Cafe and the story.” Bombera, Oakland “Some people never had a persimmon until they tried the Cosecha salad, my nod to Chez Panisse. Alice always brought RUSSELL something special MOORE for her guests. 1986–2007 I want to do the The Kebabery, same for Oakland my neighbors.”

CAL PETERNELL 1995–2017 Cookbook author JERRY JAKSICH, “Chez Panisse is a RAYNEIL DE teaching kitchen—there’s GUZMAN, AND an investment in helping SAM WHITE cooks come into their own. MID-2000S–2012 Ramen Shop, There’s a connection Oakland between that environment and my cookbooks.”

SAMIN NOSRAT 2000–2003 Cookbook author, podcast host, JEAN-PIERRE DAN PAUL BERTOLLI media queen! MOULLÉ BARBER 1982–1992 1975–2012 1994 Fra’Mani Salumi, Two Bordelais, Blue Hill at Berkeley Healdsburg, CA Stone Barns, “I got into this business to Pocantico support the regeneration Hills, NY CHRIS CRAWFORD of American farmland, with 2009–2011 respect for farmers and Tart Vinegar, animals. That directly came NYC from Chez Panisse.” From Crock-Pots to Instant Pots A visual guide to the 1971 kitchen—and h

1971

TODAY

; ) N E H C T I

) K

N 1 E 7 9 H 1 C (

T I S I K

R A N R M E

D M O A I L M L ( I

N W / G I H S T I E D D

E D R E N A M

/ E S R U N T E C D E R T A I H G

C & R

S A

E K M C O O H

N R K

E R T T O E F

O Y I S B E U T R R

U R A O S C E

: C S TEAR F 1971 TODAY H

In the early ’70s, Americans were opening up their We’ve turned the kitchen into a living room all P O

A Y DOWN THAT R S

kitchens into the living room, one half-wall at a time. Breakfast its own, with no signs of going back. (Is that a couch?) G E T O R T

WALL bars abounded! The kitchen was becoming a shared family Just try to watch a home remodeling show without hearing U O O H C and entertaining space, a place to pull up a stool and hang out. the phrase open concept. Thanks, Joanna Gaines. P Pots to Instant Pots en—and how it has transformed by ALEX BEGGS

PATTERNS GALORE

A Giant Chop for Mankind How Carl Sontheimer created the machine that turned home cooks into cuisinières 1971 Seeking shine and by JOHN BIRDSALL absolution from daily mopping and endless sweeping, At the end of the ’60s, the Americans somehow thought tile- kitchen counters of ambitious print vinyl flooring, with its eye-

American gourmands had two

G crossing patterns and slight N appliances: a blender and a stand O

R cushion underneath, was a sexy-

T mixer. Together they could take on S N

M cool-good idea. Until they A I R just about any recipe Julia Child, A N

. learned that some manufacturers

O DOUBLE THE OVEN H

S James Beard, or Craig Claiborne / H

S used asbestos. T E I would ask of the home cook. But G M A S in 1971 a retired physicist named F M I

1971 TODAY Y In the “luxury You can top a Y

T Carl Sontheimer changed S T E E

T class,” according to a sleek Wolf slide-in range

G everything. After discovering the R

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O survey in Ladies' Home with the new combo steam- O Magimix, a clunky industrial

C Y

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) Journal, a kitchen would and-convection oven, which E blender-slicer-grater-chopper, at T N R E U V have two built-in ovens (a detects the weight of what’s a housewares show in Paris, he O O

roast in one, a pie in the inside to adjust cook time N

; signed a deal to be its exclusive ) R T E E L O I D other). The “most-wanted” and lets you preheat from the U.S. distributor. Months of T P

- O T N

M feature in an oven was couch with an app. Progress! R N

( tinkering led to an almost

E A T D M S self-cleaning, which was completely new machine (one that O O N I C M

. ( F

F new technology coveted reduced the risk of sliced fingers), L O N

O Y G by the universal

I with a new name: the Cuisinart. S W S - E E T O

R advertiser’s archetype: the D Sontheimer’s marketing skills R

U E M Z O TODAY Floors are boring, housewife. (She hates A B matched his genius for gadgetry. C

H U ; ) P S . T not-so-shiny neutrals now, made cleaning! Free her from this Using free machines to win over O O W P

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T “engineered wood.” It’s the F electric ranges were “a R O who then told followers the $175 R U O

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1 fun, with tiles in funky designs great spot for a party E R as a good stove,” Sontheimer ( L

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B I O M T R Bocuse’s fish sheathed in potato T S U I

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C Y M /

L pear soufflé, with a vast, sludgy K E A T C R N

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T 1971 C C Rival introduced the Crock-Pot in 1971. It came in ghanoush in between. Eliminating A I

: S N S S / H

A eye-catching colors like avocado and “deluxe wood tone.” the drudgery of handwork made P L N A C O R I / In The New Yorker, Janet Malcolm noted: “Everything you cooking for pleasure an option T S G T U O R T I T put in the Crock-Pot takes not minutes but forever to cook.” for anyone who could afford one. E T B O S O H N R I P TODAY The Instant Pot has usurped its throne. were dropped. From then on there Launched in 1969 to were three meals a day. feed under-resourced At its peak the American children and nationwide Free combat hunger—which Breakfast Program fed the Panthers called thousands of children “one of the greatest daily, with at least 45 forms of oppression”— chapters in major cities the program was from Los Angeles to flourishing when Boston, and in rural Huggins moved back to communities Oakland, California. throughout the South. It She soon became paved the way for the director of the Oakland USDA’s School Breakfast Community School, Program, permanently which served home- authorized in 1975. cooked breakfast and Fifty years later the lunch five days a week Free Breakfast to hundreds of Program serves as an schoolchildren. “It was enduring model for just so nice to see that numerous initiatives the children were not that address food going to the classroom insecurity, particularly hungry,” Huggins in the wake of the recalls. They “knew pandemic—programs they were loved.” such as D.C.’s Bread for The Panthers the City, FrontLine secured food—eggs, Farming in Colorado, meat, bread, fresh Harlem Grown in New fruit—through York, and the Inter- The Black Panther Free Breakfast donations from faith Food Shuttle in Program in action at St. Augustine’s individuals, small North Carolina. Church in Oakland stores, and local More broadly, the supermarkets, Panthers laid the sometimes through groundwork for such threat of boycott. obvious descendants as The free meals filled the Black Lives Matter Until We’re All Fed a critical need in the Movement and for The Black Panthers’ Free Breakfast Program community. “Our current calls to defund fed schoolchildren at no cost—and waiting list included the police. “If you think laid the groundwork for modern activism unborn children,” of it like the ebb and Huggins recalls. flow of the ocean, the by VALERIE BOYD One day, she Black Panther Party remembers, several was a wave,” Huggins boys lingered in the says, “then the Black When Black Panther nastiness of it—as a prisoners, who schoolyard, playing Lives Matter network is Party member Ericka weapon of control. received no prenatal basketball as she a wave.” Huggins left prison on Fruits and vegetables vitamins or additional locked up the school Huggins is 73 now May 25, 1971, she was were scarce, and meat nutrients. Embarrassed for the day. The boys and lives close to the hungry. was mysterious. “It was by the media attention, told her that their site of the Oakland She had been just air food,” Huggins prison officials “were parents worked Community School, hungry every day for remembers. “You forced to improve the multiple jobs and long home to a program S the two years she’d couldn’t tell what it food,” Huggins says, hours, so no one—and that helps formerly I R A served at Connecticut’s was because it was “but not by much.” no food—awaited them incarcerated men L O P /

Niantic Correctional gray, no matter what.” No wonder, then, at home. Huggins went reenter society. She S E M

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There, prison officials Eventually, Huggins when she was released, “Comrade, the children them so many years Y B

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5 1 ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil Bake beef Wellington until pastry is 5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice golden brown all over and an instant- 2 tsp. Dijon mustard read thermometer inserted into the Kosher salt center registers 115° for medium-rare Freshly ground black pepper (the temperature will climb as beef Wellington rests), 40–45 minutes. WELLINGTON Cook bacon in a large Transfer to a wire rack set inside a skillet over medium, stirring rimmed baking sheet and let rest occasionally, until browned and crisp, 15 minutes. 6–8 minutes. Add shallots and cook, DO AHEAD: Beef Wellington can Beef stirring often, until very soft, about be formed 1 day ahead. Cover and 5 minutes. Add garlic and thyme and keep chilled. Wellington cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. SAUCE AND ASSEMBLY While the With Increase heat to medium-high. beef Wellington is cooling, purée Add crimini and maitake mushrooms cilantro, parsley, anchovies, garlic, and cook, stirring often, until oil, lemon juice, and mustard in Green Sauce mushrooms release almost all of their a blender or food processor until liquid and look dry, 10–12 minutes. nearly smooth; season sauce with salt Stir in soy sauce, then season with salt and pepper. and pepper. Transfer mushroom Transfer beef Wellington to a 4–6 SERVINGS This sort-of-traditional mixture to a medium bowl and chill platter and serve with sauce approach to beef Wellington until cold, about 30 minutes. alongside for spooning over slices. doesn’t shy away from using a range Meanwhile, season tenderloin of umami-rich ingredients such as generously with salt and pepper. bacon, soy sauce, mustard, and Heat oil in a large skillet over maitake mushrooms to create tons of medium-high until very hot and you flavor. A lighter sauce packed with can see wisps of smoke. Cook herbs (and a few anchovies) balances tenderloin, turning every 30–60 out the dish. seconds, until all sides and the ends are browned, about 4 minutes. WELLINGTON Transfer meat to a plate and let cool 4 slices bacon, finely chopped 10 minutes. 2 large shallots, finely chopped While the tenderloin is cooling, roll 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped out puff pastry on a lightly floured Leek and 2 tsp. thyme leaves surface with a long side closest to you 12 oz. crimini or shiitake to a 14x13" rectangle. Spread Artichoke mushrooms, trimmed, finely mushroom mixture over center of chopped or pulsed in a pastry to create a rectangle that is Fondue food processor about as wide as your piece of meat, 4 oz. maitake or crimini leaving a border of approximately 1" mushrooms, trimmed, finely along top and bottom of pastry. chopped or pulsed in a Brush meat all over with mustard food processor and place in center of pastry on MAKES ABOUT 5½ CUPS The secret to 2 tsp. soy sauce top of mushroom mixture. Starting thick and smooth fondue is the

Kosher salt with the edge closest to you, roll addition of cornstarch. It absorbs any . O I G

Freshly ground black pepper up pastry, letting top and bottom excess water, thickens the fondue, and N A R

1 2-lb. piece trimmed center-cut edges overlap slightly (trim any prevents proteins in the dairy from T S

E I

beef tenderloin excess); pinch edges together to separating or curdling. Don’t worry if H P O

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil seal. Turn beef Wellington seam side you don’t happen to have a fondue S

Y B 1 17.3- or 14-oz. package frozen down, then twist ends to seal. Trim off pot; a saucepan or even an Instant Pot G N I

puff pastry, thawed any excess pastry on sides, but make will do. L Y T S All-purpose flour (for dusting) sure meat is completely encased. P O R

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and 6 oz. Bel Paese cheese or whole- P

. F

1 large egg, beaten to blend chill until pastry is firm, about 1 hour. milk mozzarella, coarsely O N A

Place a rack in middle of oven; grated (about ¾ cup) R G

SAUCE AND ASSEMBLY A preheat to 425°. Lightly brush pastry 2 tsp. cornstarch I R O 1 small bunch cilantro, tough all over with egg. Make several ½ cup frozen peas T C I V

stems trimmed slits in pastry across the top of the 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter Y B

1 small bunch parsley, tough stems beef Wellington (do not cut down into 2 medium leeks, white and pale G N I L

trimmed green parts only, tough outer Y

the meat below and keep the slits T S

3 oil-packed anchovy fillets shorter than 1"; longer ones can layers removed, finely D O O

1 small garlic clove, crushed really open up when baked). chopped F 8 oz. canned artichoke hearts, Using an electric mixer on medium- drained, coarsely chopped high speed, beat sugar and remaining Kosher salt 1 cup butter in a large bowl until light ⅓ cup dry white wine and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add egg 3 oz. cream cheese (about ½ cup), whites, one at a time, beating to blend cut into 1" pieces after each addition and scraping 3 oz. fresh goat cheese (about down sides and bottom of bowl ⅓ cup), cut into 1" pieces occasionally, until very light and airy, 1 cup basil leaves about 3 minutes. Beat in lemon zest, ¼ cup mint leaves vanilla extract, and almond extract. ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest Reduce mixer speed to low, add dry 1 Tbsp. finely chopped chives Raspberry- ingredients in 3 additions, alternating Crudités and torn crusty bread with buttermilk in 2 additions, starting (for serving) Hibiscus and ending with dry ingredients. Increase speed to medium-high; beat Toss Bel Paese cheese and cornstarch Poke Cake 2 minutes. Scrape batter into prepared in a small bowl to coat cheese and pan and smooth out evenly to edges. set aside. Bake cake until golden brown and Place peas in another small bowl. a tester inserted into center comes out Bring 1 cup water to a boil in a small 12 SERVINGS The classic poke cake clean, 45–55 minutes. Transfer pan to saucepan and pour over peas; let sit gets a slight update: Rather than a wire rack and let cake cool in pan 5 minutes to soften. Drain peas, then using Jell-O gelatin, the cake gets its 15 minutes. set aside. fruit flavor and color from a mix of Melt butter in a medium saucepan hibiscus tea and the juice of crushed FILLING While the cake is cooling, over medium heat. Add leeks and frozen raspberries. Chopsticks are the place raspberries in a fine-mesh sieve cook, stirring occasionally, until ideal size for poking the holes into set over a medium bowl. Using a softened but not browned, about the cake, but the slender handle of a wooden spoon, press down on 4 minutes. Add artichokes, season wooden spoon or fork will also work. raspberries until you have 1 cup juice; with salt, and cook, stirring, until discard solids (or save for another use). warmed through, about 1 minute. CAKE Sprinkle gelatin over; let sit 10 minutes. Add wine and cook until almost 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, Meanwhile, stir sugar, hibiscus completely evaporated, about room temperature, cut into flowers, and 1½ cups boiling water in 2 minutes. Transfer mixture to a pieces, plus more for pan a small bowl to combine and let sit blender and blend until a coarse 3 cups (345 g) cake flour 10 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh purée forms. 1½ tsp. baking powder sieve into bowl with raspberry Wipe out saucepan and return 1 tsp. baking soda mixture; discard solids. Whisk until purée to pan; set over medium-low ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. filling is smooth. heat. Wipe out blender and set aside. Morton kosher salt Using a chopstick, poke holes down Add cream cheese and goat cheese 2 cups (400 g) sugar into cake at 1" intervals. Slowly pour to pan and cook, stirring, until melted 6 large egg whites filling over cake, letting it seep into and combined, about 4 minutes. 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest holes. Chill cake while you make the Working in 2 batches, add Bel Paese 1 tsp. vanilla extract topping to let the filling set up a bit. cheese, letting first batch melt before ½ tsp. almond extract adding the second, and cook, stirring, 1½ cups buttermilk TOPPING AND ASSEMBLY Heat until melted and combined, about marshmallows, vanilla extract, and 2 minutes total. Reduce heat to low FILLING ½ cup cream in a medium saucepan and keep warm. 2 12-oz. bags frozen raspberries, over medium, stirring constantly, until Combine peas, basil, mint, lemon thawed marshmallows are melted, about zest, and 1 Tbsp. water in reserved 1 Tbsp. unflavored powdered 3 minutes; chill remaining 1 cup cream blender; season with salt and blend, gelatin until ready to use. Let marshmallow adding a little more water if needed, ½ cup (100 g) sugar cream cool, about 30 minutes. until smooth. ¼ cup dried hibiscus flowers Using an electric mixer on medium- Remove fondue from heat and high speed, beat chilled 1 cup cream scrape pea purée into pan. Return to TOPPING AND ASSEMBLY in a large bowl until soft peaks form. low heat and cook, stirring, just until 1 10-oz. bag mini marshmallows Scrape in marshmallow cream and warmed through, about 1 minute. 1 tsp. vanilla extract beat until almost stiff. Taste fondue and season with more 1½ cups heavy cream, divided Turn cake out onto a platter. Turn salt if needed. right side up and spoon marshmallow Transfer fondue to a fondue pot if CAKE Place a rack in middle of oven; whipped cream on top. Spread to you have one and keep warm over preheat to 325°. Butter a 13x9" edges, making dips and swirls. a fondue burner; sprinkle chives baking dish. Whisk flour, baking DO AHEAD: Cake (without topping) on top. Serve with crudités and bread powder, baking soda, and salt in a can be made 2 days ahead. Wrap for dipping. medium bowl to combine. tightly and chill. SWEET AND SALTY MANGO LASSI P. 59

Mistry prefers their lassis not too sweet and sometimes salty. This mango-and- cumin version strikes the right balance. Mistry suggests adding white rum, “if that’s your thing.”

BURNT MASALA WINGS P. 59

Not all Hindus eat meat on Holi, but Mistry loves these wings. “Roasting, then grinding masala adds a depth of flavor,” they say. “The tamarind sauce is a nice tangy foil.”

BOMBAY SANDWICH P. 60

“This is like a grown- up grilled cheese,” Mistry explains. “I caramelize onions into a jam and use sourdough to give the sandwich some structure.”

54 LETTERING BY HANIF KURESHI Holi, the Hindu festival of colors, marks the start of a new season, represents the triumph of good over evil— and is a perfect excuse to eat chef PREETI MISTRY’S snacks text by SONIA CHOPRA photographs by HEAMI LEE NOWN AS A CELEBRATION of spring, colors, and love, Holi is a time to welcome a new season and spread some joy. Traditions vary across the Hindu diaspora, but the main event is the game of colors, where people gather outside and throw colored powder at each other. It symbolizes repairing broken relationships (and creating new ones) and the victory of good over evil. And it’s pure, messy fun. What I love most about Holi is how it brings people together, which is why I always dreamed of going to one party in particular: chef Preeti Mistry’s blowout bash at Juhu Beach Club in Oakland, California. “The queer community co-opted the word love,” jokes Mistry, who uses they/them pronouns. “Love wins. Love is love. It’s ours. So as a queer-owned business, we get the festival of love.” Juhu Beach Club is now closed, but with so many people stuck at home this year, we asked Mistry to create a spring- veg-forward menu that’s festive and flexible enough to feed everyone with whom you’re celebrating. “Holi is not conducive to a sit-down meal—it’s more like finger food— so you want intense flavors that are rich, spicy, and salty,” they say. “That’s indicative of a really fun party.”

Dahi Puri SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry about 30 seconds. Transfer puris to 8 SERVINGS Black chickpeas lend thermometer a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. a nuttier flavor than larger tan garbanzo Break open puri on one side and fill beans. We recommend Rancho Gordo’s Place chickpeas in a medium saucepan each one with 1 Tbsp. chickpeas and desi chana, which can be ordered and pour in water to cover by 2"; season 1 Tbsp. potatoes. Transfer to a platter; online; pigeon peas or black-eyed peas with salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce drizzle with spiced yogurt, tamarind work well as a substitute. heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring chutney, and Scallion Chutney. Scatter occasionally and adding more water as red onion, cilantro, mint, and sev over ½ cup dried black chickpeas, soaked needed to keep covered, until tender and sprinkle with more chaat masala. overnight, drained and very creamy, 45–60 minutes. Drain. Kosher salt Meanwhile, combine potatoes and 3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes turmeric in another medium saucepan Scallion Chutney (about 1 lb.), peeled, cut into and pour in water to cover by 2"; season MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS This chutney takes 1" pieces with salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce just minutes to prepare. The scallion 1 tsp. ground turmeric heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring greens add an oniony layer to the sauce ½ cup tamarind concentrate (such as occasionally, until potatoes are tender, and help produce the verdant color. Swad) 8–10 minutes. Drain. 2 Tbsp. date syrup Purée tamarind concentrate, date syrup, 1 bunch scallions, dark green parts 2 tsp. finely chopped, peeled ginger ginger, 2 Tbsp. chaat masala, 1 tsp. only, coarsely chopped 4 Tbsp. chaat masala, divided, plus cumin, 1 tsp. red chili powder, and ¼ cup 1 serrano chile, coarsely chopped more for serving cold water in a blender until smooth. 1 garlic clove, crushed 3 tsp. ground cumin, divided Season tamarind chutney with salt. 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, coarsely 3 tsp. red chili powder, divided Mix yogurt, 2 Tbsp. chaat masala, chopped 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt remaining 2 tsp. cumin, and remaining 2½ cups coarsely chopped cilantro E

Vegetable oil (for frying; 2 tsp. red chili powder in a small bowl 1 cup mint leaves L A H about 8 cups) to combine; season with salt. 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice A N

1 7-oz. packet pani puri Pour oil into a large pot to come 3" Kosher salt N A L A

½ cup Scallion Chutney (see recipe) up sides and fit with thermometer. Heat Y B

1 small red onion, finely chopped over medium until thermometer registers Purée scallions, chile, garlic, ginger, H P A 1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro 350°. Working in batches, slip 6–10 cilantro, mint, lemon juice, a big pinch R G O 1 cup coarsely chopped mint puris into oil and fry, turning with a of salt, and ⅔ cup water in a blender T O H

1 8-oz. package thin sev slotted spoon, until golden and puffed, until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl. P

56 DAHI PURI

“These are the best party snacks. They’re light and look really nice with sev [crunchy chickpea noodles] and chutneys on top, plus you can set it up DIY serving style— with a little bowl of potatoes, a little bowl of chickpeas—so people can assemble it themselves,” Mistry says. SPRING VEGETABLE BHAJIA

“When frying the bhajia, you’re almost stretching them across the oil, not dropping a ball in,” Mistry explains. “That gives the bhajia a lot of crispy edges, so you get poky bits of scallion, cabbage, and snap peas.” Spring Vegetable Bhajia Burnt Masala Wings GLAZE AND ASSEMBLY Place racks in 8 SERVINGS Thinly slicing the vegetables 8 SERVINGS Mistry came up with this upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat ensures they are crisp once they are fried. technique a few years ago when they to 425°. Whisk tamarind, sugar, and were trying to mimic the unique smokiness ½ cup water in a medium bowl until sugar VEGETABLES of tandoori cooking—just without a is dissolved; set tamarind mixture aside. 2 bunches scallions, white and pale tandoor. Burning the spices re-creates at Melt butter in small saucepan over green parts only, thinly sliced home the slightly bitter taste and smell medium heat. Add ginger and chili sauce lengthwise into 1½" pieces you get from an 800°-plus oven. and cook, stirring, until ginger browns 1 medium onion, thinly sliced slightly, about 4 minutes. Add reserved 2 cups thinly sliced Napa cabbage BURNT MASALA tamarind mixture, reduce heat to low, 2 carrots, thinly sliced lengthwise 8 black cardamom pods and simmer, whisking occasionally, until into 1½" pieces 3 green cardamom pods glaze is thick and glossy, 10–15 minutes. 1 cup thinly sliced sugar snap peas 3 chiles de árbol Let cool. 2 Tbsp. ground coriander 2 2" cinnamon sticks Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with 2 Tbsp. red chili powder 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns double layers of foil; place a wire rack 1 Tbsp. ground cumin 1½ tsp. whole cloves inside each. Using tongs, remove wings Kosher salt from marinade, letting excess drip back MARINADE into bowl, and divide among racks; ASSEMBLY Juice of 2 lemons discard marinade. Vegetable oil (for frying; Juice of 4 limes Roast wings until golden, 15–20 about 8 cups) 2 serrano chiles, finely chopped minutes. Remove from oven; turn wings 2 cups chickpea flour 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped over. Brush all over with glaze, return to ⅔ cup rice flour 1 4" piece ginger, finely chopped oven and roast until wings are golden 3 tsp. baking powder 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil brown and cooked through and glaze is 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2 tsp. bubbling slightly, 10–15 minutes. Morton kosher salt, plus more Morton kosher salt Transfer wings to platter and scatter Scallion Chutney (see recipe, 4 lb. chicken wings cilantro over. p. 56) and store-bought spiced ketchup (such as Brooklyn Delhi GLAZE AND ASSEMBLY curry ketchup; for serving) ½ cup tamarind concentrate Sweet and Salty Mango Lassi (such as Swad) 8 SERVINGS This drink is a cross between SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry 2 Tbsp. sugar a sweet mango lassi and a savory chaas. thermometer 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter If you like your lassi on the thicker side, 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely hold back some of the water and lose the VEGETABLES Toss scallions, onion, chopped ice when serving. cabbage, carrots, and sugar snap peas 1 Tbsp. hot chili sauce (such as in a large bowl to combine. Sprinkle in Sriracha) 2 Tbsp. cumin seeds coriander, red chili powder, and cumin; ½ bunch cilantro, tough stems ½ cup fresh lime juice season generously with salt (about discarded, chopped 2 tsp. kala namak (black salt) or 1 Tbsp.). Toss again; let sit 30 minutes. kosher salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or 4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt ASSEMBLY Pour oil into a large pot to mortar and pestle 1 30-oz. can mango pulp (such as come 2" up sides; fit with thermometer. Swad) Heat over medium until thermometer BURNT MASALA Place a rack in middle of Mint sprigs (for serving) registers 350°. Whisk chickpea flour, rice oven; preheat to 350°. Toast black and flour, baking powder, and 2 tsp. Diamond green cardamom pods, chiles de árbol, SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt in cinnamon sticks, peppercorns, and mortar and pestle a medium bowl. Working in batches, cloves on a small rimmed baking sheet, knead flour mixture into vegetables with tossing halfway through, until chiles are Toast cumin in a small dry skillet over your hands, waiting until flour mixture is nearly black and cloves are ashy gray, medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, absorbed before adding more. 8–10 minutes. until slightly darkened and very fragrant, Working in 3 batches and adjusting Transfer chiles and spices to spice mill about 2 minutes. Let cool, then finely grind heat to maintain oil temperature, pull off or mortar and pestle and let cool. Finely in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. bite-size pieces of dough (about 2") grind (you should have about ⅓ cup); Whisk lime juice, kala namak, and and gently stretch out as you carefully set burnt masala aside. ground cumin in a small bowl until salt is drop into oil (8–10 pieces per batch). dissolved. Pour into a large pitcher and Fry, turning often, until deep golden MARINADE Whisk lemon juice, lime add yogurt, mango pulp, and 2 cups brown, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted juice, chiles, garlic, ginger, oil, salt, cold water; stir until smooth. Chill until spoon, transfer bhajia to paper towels; and 2 Tbsp. burnt masala in a large cold, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. season with salt. bowl to combine. Add wings and toss To serve, divide lassi among glasses Serve bhajia with chutney and spiced to coat in marinade. Cover and chill filled with ice and garnish each with a ketchup for dipping. at least 2 hours and up to 12 hours. mint sprig.

59 Bombay Sandwich POTATOES AND ASSEMBLY Place potatoes 2 tsp. black peppercorns MAKES 8 Mistry’s Bombay Sandwich in a large pot and pour in cold water to 2 tsp. whole cloves combines the spicy, sharp flavors of cover by 1". Add a large handful of salt 5 medium red beets (about 2 lb.), the popular Indian street food with the (water should taste briny) and bring to trimmed, scrubbed California-cuisine-inspired grilled a boil. Reduce heat; simmer until potatoes 4 cups whole milk cheeses they have come to love at some are very tender but not falling apart, 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter of their favorite Bay Area restaurants. 30–35 minutes. Drain and let sit until ½ cup (packed) light brown sugar cool enough to handle. Peel potatoes 1 tsp. vanilla extract ONION JAM and slice ¼" thick. Let cool completely. ¼ cup vegetable oil Slather one side of bread slices with SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or 1 tsp. brown mustard seeds scallion chutney. Distribute half of mortar and pestle 1 tsp. ground turmeric Monterey Jack and half of cheddar over 2 onions, thinly sliced 8 slices. Top with some reserved onion Preheat oven to 400°. Toast pistachios Kosher salt jam, followed by 3–4 potato slices. on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing Sprinkle with chaat masala, then top with halfway through, until golden brown, POTATOES AND ASSEMBLY remaining cheese; close up sandwiches. about 4 minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop. 2 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes Heat 1 Tbsp. ghee in a large nonstick Meanwhile, crush cinnamon stick Kosher salt skillet. Place 1 or 2 sandwiches (as many with the side of a chef’s knife to break 16 ½"-thick slices sourdough bread as will comfortably fit) in skillet, lay a into pieces. Toast cinnamon, cardamom, Scallion Chutney (for bread; baking sheet or skillet on top, and cook, peppercorns, and cloves in a medium see recipe, p. 56) pressing, until bottom sides of sandwiches skillet, stirring occasionally, until slightly 12 oz. Monterey Jack, coarsely grated are golden brown, about 4 minutes. darkened and very fragrant, about (about 4 cups) Turn sandwiches over and add a bit more 4 minutes. Transfer to spice mill or mortar 12 oz. sharp cheddar, coarsely grated ghee to pan if needed. Cover again and pestle and let cool; finely grind. (about 4 cups) and cook, pressing, until other side is Grate beets on the large holes of ¼ cup chaat masala golden brown and cheese is melted, a box grater. (You should get 4 heaping 4 Tbsp. (or more) ghee or unsalted about 4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting cups.) Transfer beets to a medium butter, room temperature board and cut into quarters. Repeat with saucepan and add milk and butter.

remaining ghee and sandwiches. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, . O

ONION JAM N Cook oil, mustard seeds, until thickened, 16–20 minutes. Stir in I R A

and turmeric in a large skillet over brown sugar, vanilla, and 4 tsp. spice M

A T I medium-high, stirring occasionally, until Beet Halwa mixture (use the leftover spice mixture R

8 SERVINGS M A seeds begin to pop, about 1 minute. Add This vibrantly hued dessert in other desserts, hot chocolate, or to Y B

onions and season with salt. Cook, stirring is a visual showstopper—and it’s easy make chai). Reduce heat to low; cook, N O I occasionally, until onions are beginning to make. Eat it warm, maybe with a stirring, until liquid is almost completely T A R T to soften, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat scoop of ice cream, or chill it for a firmer evaporated, 15–20 minutes. S U L L I

to medium-low and cook, stirring texture. If chilling, halwa can be set in Stir half of the pistachios into beet . K occasionally, until onions are softened a 9x9" baking pan instead of ramekins. mixture and divide among 8 small O O B E

and jammy and starting to brown around ramekins or small bowls. C R U

the edges, 15–20 minutes. Set jam aside. ½ cup raw pistachios Top halwa with remaining pistachios O S

DO AHEAD: E

Jam can be made 1 week 1 2" cinnamon stick just before serving. E S

DO AHEAD: S ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. green Halwa can be made L I A T cover and chill. cardamom pods 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. E D

R O F

. O I G N A R T S

E How to 1. Prepare your palette. 3. Set the mood. feast outside or lay down I H P

We love Holi Hooray Holi Find a parking lot, safe some newspapers inside O S

HOLI WITH YOUR

Powder ($25 for 10 packs; rootop, or open field for to prevent powder from Y B

HOUSEHOLD holihooray.com), which is the game of colors. Search getting everywhere. G N I washable. For the game of for a Holi playlist on L Y T

5. S colors, pour powder onto whatever music streaming Improvise! P O

thalis or small trays, or mix platform you use—you can’t Can’t get outside? Buy R P

with water to fill up water go wrong with anything colorful streamers and have L L balloons or spray bottles. labeled “Bollywood hits.” an indoor dance party. E W S

Want a souvenir? Order tie- O B

2. Wear white. 4. Snack accordingly. dye kits and create colorful S E The bright colors pop on You can serve food before shirts, then show them off C N A R

white, but anything goes— or after the game of colors. in a fashion show. Worried F

Y B

Mistry remembers “at least We prefer eating first, about making a big mess? G

one goth-punk sous-chef but if you’re feasting after Purchase fun chalk and N I L

who insisted on wearing all the game, prep everything draw colorful designs on Y T S

black” at their Holi parties. ahead and have your the driveway or sidewalk. D O O F

60 BEET HALWA

“I don’t make a lot of desserts, and what I love about this recipe is that it’s easy for non-bakers,” Mistry says. “You cook grated beets down in milk, which gives the halwa a surprising richness; fold in pistachios for texture; and let it set.”

E H FT atigue

ZA’ATAR CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH CABBAGE SALAD P. 64

Let us guess: After spending more than a year cooking dinners at home, you’re feeling a bit worn out. Trust us, we’re right there with you. So we thought we’d share the way the BA Test Kitchen combats burnout—with these crispy, crunchy, and comforting dinners Is Real

BAKED PASTA AND LEEKS WITH ANCHOVY recipes by CHRIS MOROCCO & ANDY BARAGHANI CREAM photographs by LAURA MURRAY P. 64 Za’atar Chicken Cutlets thermometer registers 400°. Working in it bakes). Add peas and reserved pasta With Cabbage Salad batches and returning oil to 400° after and toss gently to coat; top with more 4 SERVINGS Breading chicken with each batch, carefully lower cutlets into Parmesan. Transfer pasta to oven; bake panko plus homemade za’atar (which skillet with tongs; cook, turning halfway until top is crisp and cream is bubbling has more sesame seeds than most through, until deep golden brown, about around the edges, 25–30 minutes. Let store-bought blends) makes for cutlets 4 minutes. Transfer cutlets to paper towels cool slightly before serving. with tons of nutty, floral, and tangy to drain and sprinkle lightly with salt. flavor. Making your own spice mix Place cabbage, onion, olive oil, and ensures that the quantities are just right. lemon juice in a medium bowl; season Simplest Rosti with salt. Toss, lightly squeezing, until 4 SERVINGS Shredding and squeezing TAHINI SAUCE cabbage is slightly wilted. Add pickles out potatoes, just like when making latkes, 1 small garlic clove, finely grated and toss again just to combine. helps create a supremely crisp base ½ cup tahini Serve cutlets with cabbage salad and for eggs and dressed greens, no flipping ¼ cup fresh lemon juice tahini sauce. required thanks to an oven finish. 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 2 large or 3 medium russet potatoes Baked Pasta and Leeks (about 1½ lb.), scrubbed CHICKEN AND ASSEMBLY With Anchovy Cream 1 small onion, very thinly sliced 3 large eggs, beaten to blend 4–6 SERVINGS Yes, you are going to 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. 1 cup all-purpose flour use a whole tin of anchovies here. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 cup panko No, it won’t be too much. Anchovies, Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup raw white sesame seeds cream, leeks, and Parmesan do ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided ⅓ cup crushed dried thyme magical things when baked with pasta. 1 small garlic clove, finely grated and/or oregano 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup sumac 1 lb. short pasta (such as rigatoni, 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts penne, or conchiglie) 1 tsp. Dijon mustard (about 1½ lb. total) Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. finely grated Parmesan, Kosher salt ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil plus more for serving Vegetable oil (for frying; 3–4 cups) 3 large leeks (about 1½ lb.), 6 large eggs ½ head of green cabbage, white and pale green parts only, 2 large handfuls arugula, romaine thinly sliced trimmed, sliced ½" thick leaves, or Little Gem lettuce leaves ½ small red onion, very thinly sliced 15 oil-packed anchovies, drained 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil (from a 1.5-oz. tin) Preheat oven to 400°. Grate potatoes 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced on the large holes of a box grater. 6 salt-brined Middle Eastern–style 1 tsp. mild red pepper flakes or Transfer to a fine-mesh sieve and add or other pickles, halved lengthwise, ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes onion; squeeze to expel as much water sliced on a diagonal Freshly ground black pepper from potatoes as possible. If you want, 2 cups heavy cream wrap in a kitchen towel to help soak up TAHINI SAUCE Whisk garlic, tahini, 3 oz. Parmesan, finely grated, the excess water. Sprinkle with 1 tsp. lemon juice, oil, and ¼ cup water in a plus more for serving Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher small bowl to combine; season with salt. 1 10-oz. bag frozen baby peas, salt, season with pepper; toss to combine. thawed in warm water, drained Heat ¼ cup oil in a large ovenproof CHICKEN AND ASSEMBLY Place eggs, nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add flour, and panko in 3 separate shallow Preheat oven to 400°. Cook pasta in a potato mixture and press firmly into an bowls. Mix sesame seeds, thyme, and large pot of boiling salted water, stirring even layer. Cook, shaking pan a few sumac into panko. occasionally, until very al dente, about times (potatoes may stick at first, but just Working one at a time, hold a long 2 minutes less than package directions. keep going; they will release), until knife parallel to a cutting board and cut Drain and set aside. deeply browned underneath (carefully chicken breasts in half, slicing along Meanwhile, heat oil in a large Dutch lift with a spatula to peek), 8–10 a long side to make 4 thin cutlets. Place oven or large high-sided skillet over minutes. Transfer to oven; bake until rosti a cutlet between 2 large sheets of wax medium. Add leeks; season with a couple is cooked through (pluck a bit off the top paper or plastic wrap. Using a meat pinches of salt. Cover and cook, stirring and taste for doneness), 18–20 minutes. mallet or rolling pin, pound to ⅓" thick. occasionally, until tender and golden Meanwhile, whisk garlic, lemon juice, Repeat with remaining cutlets. around the edges, 6–8 minutes. Uncover mayonnaise, mustard, and remaining Season both sides of a cutlet with and add anchovies, garlic, red pepper ¼ cup oil in a large bowl until smooth. salt. Dredge in flour, shaking off excess, flakes, and several grinds of black Whisk in 2 Tbsp. Parmesan and season then dip into egg wash, letting excess pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until with salt and pepper. Set dressing aside. drip back into bowl. Dredge in panko anchovies are disintegrated and garlic When rosti is cooked through, remove mixture, pressing firmly to adhere. is tender, about 5 minutes. from oven and evenly crack eggs on Repeat with remaining cutlets. Add cream and 3 oz. Parmesan. Bring top; season with salt and pepper. Bake Pour vegetable oil into a large heavy to a simmer; season with salt and black until eggs are just set, 10–12 minutes. high-sided skillet to come ½" up sides. pepper (it should taste a bit salty because Add arugula to reserved dressing and Heat over medium until an instant-read the pasta will absorb some seasoning as toss to coat. Top rosti with salad.

64 SIMPLEST ROSTI SPRING CHILI WITH GREENS P. 68 BLACK PEPPER BEEF AND CELERY STIR-FRY P. 68

67 Black Pepper Beef ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. ghee or and Celery Stir-Fry 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter vegetable oil 4 SERVINGS Like with any stir-fry, have 1 large white onion, finely chopped, 2 medium red onions, thinly sliced all your ingredients prepped and plus more, sliced, for serving 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. ready to go, as this dish takes just minutes Kosher salt Morton kosher salt, plus more to come together in the pan. If you’re 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 whole dried chiles de árbol or looking for another crunchy veg besides 2 poblano chiles, seeds removed, 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes celery, chopped bok choy or cabbage finely chopped 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato also work well in this mix. 2 Anaheim chiles or Cubanelle paste peppers or 1 poblano chile, 4 tsp. ground coriander, divided 3 garlic cloves, finely grated seeds removed, finely chopped 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, 2 tsp. finely grated ginger 1 jalapeño, seeds removed, divided 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper finely chopped 1 tsp. ground turmeric, divided 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 tsp. ground cumin 1½ cups basmati rice, rinsed until 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 1 tsp. ground oregano water runs clear 1 lb. sirloin steak, thinly sliced 1 tsp. mild red pepper flakes 1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined crosswise 1 tsp. paprika 3 garlic cloves, finely grated Kosher salt ½ head of escarole, trimmed, 2 tsp. finely grated ginger 5 celery stalks, sliced on a diagonal chopped ½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, dill, ¼" thick, plus 1 cup leaves 3 14-oz. cans cannellini (white or mint 4 scallions, cut crosswise into kidney) beans, rinsed Lime wedges (for serving) 1½"–2" pieces 4 cups low-sodium chicken or 2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce vegetable broth or water Melt ¼ cup ghee in a medium pot 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 2 Tbsp. (or more) grated Parmesan over medium heat. Add onions, season 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into Freshly ground black pepper with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, pieces 1 small bunch spinach, trimmed, until deeply golden brown and starting Cooked rice (for serving) chopped to look lacy (this will take some time!), Sour cream or yogurt and 15–20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, Whisk garlic, ginger, pepper, sesame oil, crumbled corn chips (for serving) transfer half of the onions to a plate and and 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a medium set aside for serving. bowl. Add beef, season with salt, and Heat oil and butter in a medium pot over Add chiles de árbol, tomato paste, toss to coat. medium-high until butter is melted. Add 2 tsp. coriander, 1 tsp. pepper, and Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large chopped onion and a large pinch of salt. ½ tsp. turmeric to onions still in pot. cast-iron skillet over high. Wait until you Cook, stirring often, until softened, 6–8 Cook, stirring often, until tomato paste see some wisps of smoke—if it’s not hot minutes. Add garlic, poblano chiles, darkens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add enough, the meat will steam instead of Anaheim chiles, and jalapeño and cook, rice and cook, stirring, until each grain getting deeply browned—then, working stirring, until very tender, 8–10 minutes. is well coated, about 30 seconds. Add in batches if needed, arrange steak in Add cumin, oregano, red pepper flakes, 1½ tsp. salt, pour in 2¼ cups water, and skillet in an even layer (it’s okay to crowd and paprika. Cook, stirring constantly, give mixture a stir to prevent any grains it a bit) and cook, pressing down on until very fragrant, about 1 minute. from sticking to bottom of pot. Bring pieces to ensure good contact with the Add escarole and cook, stirring often, to a boil, then reduce heat to low and pan, until brown around the edges, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add beans, cover pot. Let rice cook until water is about 1 minute. Turn steak over and add broth, and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil completely absorbed and rice is tender, sliced celery and scallions. Cook, tossing over high heat, then reduce heat to 16–18 minutes. Remove pot from heat often, until celery is slightly tender but maintain a simmer. Stir in Parmesan, and let rice sit (still covered) 15 minutes. . O still has some good crunch and scallions season with salt and pepper, and cook, While the rice is resting, toss shrimp I G N

are lightly charred, about 2 minutes. stirring occasionally, until flavors meld, with garlic, ginger, remaining 2 tsp. A R T S Remove skillet from heat and add 10–15 minutes. Taste and season with coriander, 1 tsp. pepper, and ½ tsp. E I H soy sauce, vinegar, butter, and 3 Tbsp. more salt and pepper and/or add more turmeric in a medium bowl. Season with P O S

water. Toss, until butter is melted and Parmesan if needed. Stir in spinach. salt and toss again. Y B

sauce coats steak (still off heat). Add Ladle chili into bowls and top with Five minutes before rice is done G N I L Y

celery leaves and toss until slightly dollops of sour cream, sliced onion, and resting, melt remaining 2 Tbsp. ghee in T S wilted. Season with more salt if needed. corn chips. a large nonstick skillet over medium-high P O R P

Divide rice among bowls and top with heat. Add shrimp in a single layer and . H C I

beef stir-fry. cook until lightly charred around the V E K Spicy Shrimp Pilaf edges, about 1 minute per side. Remove R U J 4 SERVINGS When preparing a pilaf, we from heat. A C C E

Spring Chili With Greens normally try to cook meat or fish (when Uncover rice and fluff with a fork. Add B E R

4–6 SERVINGS

No tomatoes, just lots of using it) along with the rice to allow shrimp and cilantro and gently fold in Y B

chiles, beans, and aggressive use of your flavors to mingle. In this case, the shrimp until evenly distributed. Transfer pilaf to G N I L spice cabinet create a chili perfect for the cook so quickly that it is better to pan-fry Y

a platter and top with reserved crispy T S

in-between season when it’s still cold but them separately and combine with the onions. Serve pilaf with lime wedges for D O O you refuse to wear a winter coat anymore. rice at the very end. squeezing over. F

68 SPICY SHRIMP PILAF A Night Like No Other Apart from a few constants—matzo, seder plate, lots of wine— the PASSOVER meal is as diverse as the Jewish people themselves, varying between countries, communities, and families. Here, seven chefs share the flavors, recipes, and memories that mean Passover to them

as told to ALIZA ABARBANEL, SARAH JAMPEL, and ADEENA SUSSMAN photographs by EMMA FISHMAN

70 SLOW-ROAST LAMB WITH HARISSA P. 76 Ron and Leetal Arazi, co-owners of New York Shuk

“Leetal’s Turkish grandmother loved to make lamb before she emigrated to Israel, but when she got there it was so hard to find that she reserved it for holidays. We use ras-el-hanout, harissa, and preserved lemons on the meat as a nod to Ron’s Moroccan heritage. Because fennel is a springtime vegetable and Passover is a spring holiday, it’s also a must. We love to put the lamb in the oven before bed and wake up to its aroma. It’s the most delicious thing in the world.” HEN I PICTURE MY EXTENDED family, we’re all seated around YUZU KOSHO DEVILED EGGS a seder table that’s covered in matzo P. 75 Alex Raij, crumbs and Manischewitz. My dad chef-owner of Txikito

strums “Ma Nishtanah” on the guitar “When I’m cooking for Passover, karpas (a green while I snack on salt-slicked parsley vegetable, often parsley, W representing spring) is and lock eyes with my sister, silently asking when the always my inspiration— it was my first taste of prayers end and the meal begins. the seder plate. I grew up in Minneapolis without Each spring Jewish families gather to recount the biblical a religious education— my parents are immigrants tale of Exodus, when the Israelites escaped bondage from Argentina, where they had a very secular in Egypt via locust swarms and parted seas. Passover is lifestyle—but when I was in first grade, a festival of stories and song, ritual and resistance. And a generous family in our neighborhood invited because we’re Jews, it’s symbolized with food. At the us over for my first seder. What I remember most center of the table, a decorative platter—the seder plate— was dipping the parsley in the salt water (to displays the foods that have guided the night’s ceremony symbolize the Israelites’ tears in Egypt)—it was delicious. I’m still for generations: matzo, roast shankbone, bitter herbs, attracted to those flavors, spring vegetables, and charoset studded with nuts and fruit. on display here.”

And for eight days (or seven, if you’re in Israel), we go YEMENI CHICKEN MATZO BALL SOUP without the usual bagels and pita, cleansing our homes P. 79 Einat Admony, and diets of leavened foods—and, depending on the family chef-owner of Taïm Falafel and their heritage, grains, legumes, and seeds as “I grew up in a religious home in Israel, raised by well—to represent the haste of leaving Egypt without a Persian mother and Yemeni father. When I was enough time for bread to rise. a child, Passover would include 30 or 40 people Matzo may be known as the bread of affliction, but because I had 26 cousins. We followed a funny the Passover meal is a feast. As a kid growing up in Persian tradition: We’d pass out scallions and Los Angeles, seder meant sweet sliced brisket, The Silver when we sang ‘Dayenu,’ we’d hit each other over Palate’s Chicken Marbella, and kebabs from a Moroccan the head with them. We ate this Yemeni chicken restaurant on Westwood Boulevard. Dessert was soup every Friday night, with a special version tangerines (from the garden) and sticky coconut for Passover. For seders at my old restaurant, macaroons (from the deli), while the grown-ups broke Balaboosta, I served a riff on it along with other out mezcal. But no two seders are the same, and dishes that combined the cultures of Ashkenazi Jews the canon of beloved Passover dishes is as expansive in Eastern Europe and Mizrahi Jews in the as the Jewish diaspora itself. We asked seven chefs Middle East and North Africa. Showcasing to share the recipes that define their own celebrations, the flavors of where I come from serves as a bridge where their tables are perfumed with fenugreek, harissa, between Jewish cultures.” and schmaltz. —ALIZA ABARBANEL

72 A roasted egg (beitzah), which symbolizes hope, mourning, and sacrifice, is a component of the seder plate, and in many families, eggs are also served as a first course. MUSHROOM MATZO KUGEL Bonnie Morales, chef and co-owner of Kachka

“Most of my mom’s recipes are rooted in the time before she emigrated from Soviet-era Belarus, where making dishes related to Jewish heritage was discouraged. So this casserole is one she learned to bake when she moved to Chicago, after a cousin made it for Passover. Now my mom serves it every year. While her version uses cream of mushroom soup and frozen spinach, I go with homemade mushroom stock, Swiss chard, and crème fraîche.” Yuzu Kosho Deviled Eggs increasing to a very thin stream. Process STOCK Heat broiler. Place onion on MAKES 18 The filling uses homemade until incorporated, then add 1 tsp. cold a small baking sheet and broil, turning mayo for the silkiest texture, but you can water. Stop processor and scrape down halfway through, until charred, about sub the egg yolk and oil for 1 cup sides, then, with motor running, add 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a small store-bought mayonnaise if you prefer. remaining ½ cup oil in a very slow saucepan and add parsley, all stream. Process until incorporated. mushrooms, peppercorns, and 5 cups 2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar or Season mayonnaise with salt or up to water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. more yuzu kosho. Add cooked and cook at a bare simmer until broth is 1 tsp. sugar yolks to mayonnaise and pulse, scraping reduced to 3½ cups and is very cloudy, 2 tsp. finely chopped shallot down sides as needed, until a very thick about 1½ hours. Strain stock through a 3 small radishes, trimmed, very thinly paste forms. Add shallot, cornichon, and fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof sliced 2 Tbsp. herbs to egg mixture and pulse measuring glass or an airtight container 18 large eggs to combine. Taste and season with more (you should have about 3 cups); discard Kosher salt salt if needed. solids. Stir in salt. 1 Tbsp. S&B hot mustard powder or Transfer egg mixture to a pastry bag DO AHEAD: Broth can be made 3 days 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. Colman’s fitted with pastry tip of choice, or a ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. mustard powder resealable plastic bag (snip one corner 1 large egg yolk* off to pipe), and chill. KUGEL Preheat oven to 300°. Butter a 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice When you’re ready to serve, arrange 13x9" baking dish. Break matzo into 1 Tbsp. (or more) green yuzu kosho egg whites cut side down on paper 3" pieces; place in a large bowl. Pour 1 cup grapeseed oil or vegetable oil towels and let drain. Turn over and pipe 2 cups stock over and gently toss to 2 tsp. finely chopped cornichon in a generous amount of filling. Drain coat; set remaining 1 cup stock aside. Let 2 Tbsp. finely chopped tender herbs radishes, pat dry, and place a slice on sit until matzo is soaked and breakable (such as parsley, chives, shiso, top of each egg, then sprinkle with more but still holds its shape, about 30 minutes. or chervil), plus more for serving finely chopped herbs. Meanwhile, whisk eggs, crème DO AHEAD: Eggs can be cooked and fraîche, and cream in a medium bowl to Mix vinegar and sugar in a small bowl. mayonnaise can be made 1 day ahead. combine; season with salt. Add shallot and let sit until softened, Cover and chill separately. Remove ribs and stems from Swiss 5–10 minutes; drain. chard leaves. Finely chop ribs and stems, Meanwhile, place radishes in another then coarsely chop leaves. Heat 4 Tbsp. small bowl and pour in very cold water Mushroom Matzo Kugel butter in a large skillet over medium- to cover (radishes should curl). 8 SERVINGS Dried mushrooms create an high. As soon as butter is foaming, add Place eggs in a medium pot and pour incredibly flavorful meatless broth, but shiitake and maitake mushrooms and in water to cover by 3". Add a large store-bought brands like Pacific will work cook, stirring, until liquid is released and pinch of salt and bring to a boil over fine too. mushrooms are reduced by half in size, high heat. Immediately cover, remove about 5 minutes. Season with salt and from heat, and let sit 8 minutes. STOCK transfer to a medium bowl. Run 1 egg under cold water; crack ½ small onion Reduce heat to medium. Heat and peel. Yolk should be bright yellow 2 sprigs parsley remaining 4 Tbsp. butter in same skillet.

. and texture more chalky than fudgy. Let 1 dried porcini mushroom Add onion and a pinch of salt and cook,

S , G N

E remaining eggs sit longer in water if ¼ cup mixed dried mushrooms stirring occasionally, until translucent, G E M

W needed, checking in 1-minute increments 1 tsp. black peppercorns about 5 minutes. Add Swiss chard ribs A W R

E until done. Drain and rinse eggs under ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. and stems, increase heat to medium- N K I A L

T N cold running water. Transfer to a large Morton kosher salt high, and cook, stirring, until onion is ’ G N E R O bowl of ice water and let sit, stirring golden brown and ribs and stems are P D

Y O L every minute or so, until mostly cool, KUGEL softened, about 5 minutes. Add Swiss R H E D W

L about 5 minutes. Carefully peel eggs, 8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, chard leaves in 2 batches, letting wilt E E

L E P H O then trim a very small amount of white divided, plus more for pan slightly between additions, and cook, T E

, P

S R T from top and bottom of each egg so they 1 11-oz. box matzo (about stirring, until completely wilted and no O N . . A . F S can stand on an end. Slice in half 13 boards) longer wet-looking, about 4 minutes. N I M

E R T crosswise. Separate yolks from whites, 5 large eggs Season with salt. Scrape into bowl with S O Y F

D transferring yolks to a small bowl. Place 1 cup crème fraîche mushrooms and let cool 10 minutes. E E D N U N whites on a large plate. 1 cup heavy cream Add mushroom mixture to bowl with E M M M I Kosher salt Mix mustard powder and 2 tsp. cold matzo. Season with salt, then stir in egg M D O E

C water in another small bowl to make a 1 large bunch Swiss chard mixture. If kugel looks dry, add more N E E R

K T

A paste. Scrape into a food processor; 10 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems reserved stock ¼ cup at a time until moist O E N W

S add raw egg yolk, lime juice, and yuzu removed, sliced ¼" thick but not watery. Carefully pour into I H

T I G kosho; pulse until smooth. Let sit 1 minute. 8 oz. maitake mushrooms, cut into prepared dish; bake until top is golden W G

E E

L P

W With motor running, pour in ½ cup oil, bite-size pieces brown and kugel is set, 55–65 minutes. A O R E P * starting with a few drops at time, then 1 medium onion, finely chopped Let cool slightly before serving.

75 Slow-Roast Lamb With to adhere to meat and tucking in ends. 1 cup (packed) cilantro leaves with Harissa and Apricots Let lamb sit on the counter at room tender stems 6–8 SERVINGS Harissa pastes vary temperature at least 2 hours, or chill 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. extra-virgin widely in terms of heat level; if yours is overnight. If chilling, let meat sit at room olive oil very spicy, try reducing the 1 cup in the temperature 2 hours before roasting. 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. recipe to ¾ cup (or less) and make up When you’re ready to roast lamb, Morton kosher salt the difference with puréed jarred roasted place a rack in middle of oven; preheat red peppers. We like New York Shuk’s to 300°. Toss potatoes, onions, and STEW preserved lemon paste, which you can fennel in a large bowl with reserved oil ¼ cup vegetable oil buy online, but you can also make your mixture to coat, then toss in reserved 5 large onions (about 2½ lb.), own. To make enough for this recipe, apricots just to distribute. thinly sliced remove the seeds from ½ cup quartered Bring 1½ cups water to a boil in 3 large carrots (about 1½ lb.), preserved lemons, chop very finely, then reserved saucepan. Remove parchment peeled, sliced on a diagonal press with your knife into a paste. paper from lamb and arrange ¼" thick vegetables around; pour boiling water 6 medium Yukon Gold potatoes LAMB into roasting pan. Place a fresh sheet of (about 2½ lb.), peeled, halved, 1 lb. dried apricots (about 3 cups) parchment loosely over lamb and cover each half cut crosswise into 3 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal with a sheet of heavy-duty foil, crimping 3 pieces or 2 Tbsp. Morton kosher salt tightly around edges to seal. Slide pan ½ large head of green cabbage 3 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. ras-el-hanout into oven and place a large rimmed (about 1½ lb.), cut into 12 wedges 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped baking sheet on rack below roasting pan 1 medium green jalape–o, 1 cup harissa paste to catch any drips. Bake until lamb is coarsely chopped 5 Tbsp. preserved lemon paste fork-tender, 5½–6 hours. Remove pan 1 medium red or green jalape–o, 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil from oven and let lamb rest 30 minutes finely chopped 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes before uncovering. 3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped (about 1¾ lb.), peeled, quartered 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. 4 medium onions (about 1½ lb.), SALAD AND ASSEMBLY While the meat is plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt peeled, roots trimmed, resting, halve fennel bulb and thinly slice 1½ tsp. ground turmeric or 1 Tbsp. quartered on a mandoline or with a knife. Toss finely grated peeled turmeric 4 medium fennel bulbs, stalks fennel and herbs in a medium bowl to and fronds trimmed, bulbs combine, then add oil and preserved AWAZE Purée jalapeños, chile de árbol, quartered lemon paste and toss to coat. garlic, ginger, cilantro, oil, and salt in 1 5½–6-lb. bone-in leg of lamb To serve, place lamb on a large a small blender or food processor until platter and arrange vegetables around. smooth. Transfer awaze to a small glass SALAD AND ASSEMBLY Pour some of the roasting juices over. jar or airtight container, seal tightly or 1 large fennel bulb, stalks removed Top with some of the fennel salad; serve cover, and chill until ready to use. 2 cups tender herb leaves (such as remaining salad and a bowl of any DO AHEAD: Awaze can be made parsley, mint, and cilantro) remaining roasting juices alongside. As 1 week ahead. Keep chilled. 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil you pull the meat from the bone, you can 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. preserved moisten it with juices if desired. STEW Heat oil in a large pot over lemon paste medium-high. Cook onions, stirring often, until softened and golden, 12–14 LAMB Bring a small saucepan of water Alicha Denich minutes. Add carrots and cook, stirring, to a boil. Place apricots in a medium 8 SERVINGS Awaze, a spicy Ethiopian 1 minute, then add 1 cup water and bowl and pour in boiling water just to condiment, brings heat and lots of flavor cook, stirring, until carrots are tender, cover; reserve saucepan. Let apricots to this comforting cabbage and potato 7–9 minutes. Add potatoes, cabbage, soak 10 minutes, then drain. Set aside. stew. This recipe will yield more than you green and red jalapeños, garlic, salt, Meanwhile, mix salt and ras-el-hanout need, but you can use what’s left over in turmeric, ¼ cup awaze, and 2 Tbsp. in a small bowl to combine. Mix garlic, almost any other soup or stew, mix it into water and mix well to combine. Bring to harissa, and preserved lemon paste in mayonnaise to punch up your next a simmer, cover, and reduce heat to low. a medium bowl to combine. Mix oil, sandwich, or try it as a marinade for Cook, stirring occasionally, until 1½ tsp. salt mixture, and ¼ cup harissa chicken or fish. potatoes are partly tender, 12–15 mixture in another small bowl; set oil minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, mixture aside for roasting vegetables. AWAZE covered, until potatoes are completely Rub 2 Tbsp. harissa mixture all over 6 medium red or green jalape–os, tender, 8–10 minutes. Uncover stew and lamb, then coat lamb with remaining salt coarsely chopped give it a good stir. Stew can be served mixture, pressing to adhere. Coat lamb 1 small dried chile de árbol hot, warm, or room temperature. with remaining harissa mixture. Place in 2 garlic cloves DO AHEAD: Stew can be made 1 day a large roasting pan and cover with a 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, thinly ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. (The sheet of parchment paper, pressing firmly sliced flavor will get even better.)

76 ALICHA DENICH Fanta Prada, chef-owner of Balinjera

“I’m a classic melting- pot story: I’m an Ethiopian married to a Yemeni man, and I cook all kinds of food at home in Tel Aviv. On Passover, we always make this potato and cabbage dish. Like many Ethiopian recipes, it does not contain many expensive ingredients but is rich in flavor and texture. Somewhere between a soup and a stew, it’s the perfect accompaniment to a larger meal with a meat component. The vegetables are roughly cut so that they maintain their shape and soak up the garlicky, spicy, gingery broth.” FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH CAFÉ DE OLLA GANACHE Tamar Fasja Unikel, co-owner of Masa Madre

“I grew up in a tight-knit Jewish community in Mexico City and Passover was a very big deal—we’d swap out our dishes, silverware, pots, everything. One of my aunts, Adela, started making this cake 35 years ago and it’s now become a part of my holiday table. At Masa Madre, we add a café de olla ganache as an homage to our Mexican heritage. It’s flavored with piloncillo, cinnamon, and coffee, which plays off the chocolate in the cake.” Yemeni Chicken Matzo browned on all sides, 12–16 minutes. ½ tsp. grated piloncillo or light Ball Soup Using tongs, transfer chicken to a plate. or dark brown sugar 6–8 SERVINGS Admony likes to make Reduce heat to medium. Add onion 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter this soup ahead, then uses some of the and garlic to pot. Cook, stirring, until Pinch of kosher salt broth to cook the matzo balls shortly onion is golden, about 10 minutes. Add before serving so they don’t get mushy. squash, potatoes, carrots, celery, bay CAKE Place a rack in middle of oven; leaves, broth, and 3 quarts cold water, preheat to 325°. Lightly butter a 9x5" HAWAIJ then return chicken to pot. Cover and loaf pan; line with parchment paper, 2 Tbsp. ground cumin bring to a boil, skimming any foam from leaving a generous overhang on long 1 Tbsp. ground coriander surface. Add cumin, turmeric, 2 Tbsp. sides. Butter parchment. Combine 1 Tbsp. ground turmeric hawaij, and ½ cup cilantro. Reduce heat chocolate and remaining 7 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper so soup is at a bare simmer, cover, and 1½ tsp. unsalted butter in a medium 1 tsp. ground cardamom cook until chicken is very tender and bowl and set over a large saucepan of ½ tsp. ground cloves broth is fully flavored, about 1 hour. simmering water (do not let bottom of bowl touch water). Heat chocolate and SOUP MATZO BALLS Whisk eggs, oil, cilantro, butter, stirring occasionally, until melted 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken drumsticks fenugreek, salt, a pinch of pepper, and and smooth. Remove bowl from heat (about 2 lb.), patted dry ¼ cup broth from soup in a medium bowl and set chocolate mixture aside. Kosher salt to combine. Whisk in matzo meal; cover Pulse pecans in a food processor 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil and chill dough until cold, at least until somewhat finely ground (it’s okay 1 large onion, cut into ½" pieces 30 minutes. if there are some coarser pieces). Pulse 1 head of garlic, most of outermost Working one at a time, shape dough in almond meal and salt; set aside skins removed, roots trimmed into ping-pong-size balls (about a Beat eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer ½ small butternut squash, peeled, cut heaping tablespoonful each) and add to fitted with the whisk attachment on into 2" pieces soup. Cook matzo balls until they have medium-high speed until fluffy, about 3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes puffed up and look light and, 20–30 2 minutes. With the motor running, (about 1¼ lb.), peeled, cut into minutes. Ladle soup into bowls to serve. gradually stream in sugar and beat until 2" pieces mixture is very pale and nearly doubled 2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into in volume, about 1 minute. Stream in 2" pieces Flourless Chocolate Cake reserved chocolate mixture and beat 2 celery stalks, cut into 1" pieces With Café de Olla Ganache until no streaks remain. Remove bowl 2 dried bay leaves 8 SERVINGS This cake gets better from mixer and fold in reserved pecan 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth throughout the week, whether cold from mixture with a rubber spatula, making ½ tsp. ground cumin the fridge or warmed before serving. It sure to scrape bottom of bowl, until well ½ tsp. ground turmeric can be made pareve/dairy-free by incorporated. Pour batter into prepared ½ cup finely chopped cilantro subbing in margarine or vegan butter for pan and tap pan on counter to remove the butter and cream. any air bubbles. MATZO BALLS Bake cake, rotating pan halfway 4 large eggs CAKE through, until a tester inserted into the ¼ cup vegetable oil 7 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. unsalted center comes out with just a few moist 2 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro butter, plus more for pan crumbs attached, about 1 hour. Transfer 2 tsp. dried fenugreek leaves, 1 cup (150 g) semisweet chocolate, to a wire rack and let cool in pan. crushed, or ¾ tsp. ground chopped . E M

I fenugreek seeds 1¼ cups (125 g) raw pecans, plus GANACHE AND ASSEMBLY As soon as the A J

H 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. chopped for serving cake is almost cool, place chocolate in T E B

A Morton kosher salt 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (125 g) almond a medium bowl. Bring cream, corn syrup, Z I L E

Freshly ground black pepper flour or meal coffee, cinnamon, and piloncillo in Y B 1 cup matzo meal ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. a small saucepan to a faint simmer over G N I

L Morton kosher salt medium heat. Pour over chocolate, Y T S HAWAIJ Mix cumin, coriander, turmeric, 6 large eggs whisking constantly until melted and P O R

P pepper, cardamom, and cloves in a ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar smooth. Add butter and salt and whisk

N small bowl to combine. until butter is melted and ganache is W O

R DO AHEAD: Hawaij can be made GANACHE AND ASSEMBLY shiny and smooth. Let cool until thickened B

E 1 month ahead. Store airtight at room 1½ cups (150 g) semisweet chocolate, slightly, 15–30 minutes. R T Y temperature. chopped Turn cake out onto a large plate or M ’ D

Y ¾ cup heavy cream cake stand and turn right side up. Pour B

G SOUP Generously season chicken with 1 Tbsp. light corn syrup ganache over (it should flow over the N I L

Y salt. Heat oil in a large heavy pot (at 1 Tbsp. finely ground espresso or sides but not quite hit the plate). Scatter T S

D least 7 quarts) over medium-high. Cook other dark roast coffee chopped pecans over as desired; chill O O

F chicken, turning occasionally, until ½ tsp. cinnamon, preferably Ceylon until ganache is set, 10–15 minutes.

79 Photograph / Jennifer Chase P P O O D D C C N L I A A E S T W E N

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S T T O P O D T E I S F Y

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W O D E C E A K S L T Y S STEP-BY- TIPS & STEPS TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don’t)

Orange yolks, while beautiful, aren’t a sign of eggs’ freshness or quality. The color is determined by the hens’ diets.

Egg Heads

Eggs are like superheroes: They’re versatile, adaptable, and transformative, all contained in neat little packages. But how much do you know about that carton in the fridge? N

A We’re cracking the H A L case. (And there M I T

aren’t too many egg Y B puns—we promise!) S N

O by SARAH JAMPEL I T A R T S U L L I

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA FISHMAN APRIL 2021 – 81 Basically

2 1 Fresh Is Best WHAT’S IN A LABEL? Younger eggs are tighter, If you think the periodic table is confusing, take a look at with taut whites and tall yolks. the egg section of your grocery store. So many symbols Fresh eggs are easier to fry (the whites stay put and the and numbers! Why are some cartons $2 a dozen and yolks, sitting high above the heat, are more likely to stay others $8? While the terminology can be hard to parse, runny), to poach (the whites as a general rule, we recommend eggs that are pasture- eagerly coalesce around the yolks), and to boil—you’re raised or free-range, humane, and organic. They’ll cost less likely to get gray rings, you more, but they’re better for the farmers, the workers, lopsided yolks, or flat ends. (Older eggs, however, will be the animals, and the planet. At the store we reach for easier to peel.) If you come across a mystery egg and want Handsome Brook Farms, Vital Farms, and Pete & Gerry’s. to know its age, put it in a bowl Or take a trip to the farmers market, where you can ask of water: If it’s buoyant, it’s old (though it’s probably fine to the farmer about her chickens and direct your money eat unless it has an off odor). straight to the source. The eggs are likely to be fresher The freshest eggs likely come from the farmers market, where too. To learn more, check out the list below.

Humane unless it’s also verified outdoor access. The humane by a third-party difference is that they’re Various third-party organization (like the three fed organic feed without organizations give seals, listed to the left). In that animal by-products, like Certified Humane, case, it indicates the highest antibiotics, hormones, or American Humane standard of space and pesticides. For pasture- Certified, and American welfare. Because so much raised birds, the land they Welfare Approved, to space is required, these graze on must also meet indicate that a farm meets eggs tend to be cultivated organic requirements. requirements for factors like on smaller farms with fewer flock density and beak Non-GMO trimming. These standards birds (say, 10,000 as vary by organization and compared to 250,000). The chickens are fed a are determined differently diet that doesn’t include for cage-free, free-range, any GMOs (but that’s or pasture-raised eggs. not necessarily organic).

Cage-free and Omega-3 Enriched Free-range All eggs contain small amounts of omega-3 Though these terms are fatty acids in regulated by the USDA, their yolks, but they’re ambiguous and these birds are fed To ensure your eggs are misleading. Generally, supplements they refer to eggs from uniformly seasoned and as like flaxseed, fish soft and luscious as possible, chickens who live in oil, and alfalfa open barns or add salt when you whisk them meal to increase together, not when they’re warehouses rather those numbers. than in battery cages in the pan or on your plate. (as is the case with Natural, According to food scientist conventional eggs). J. Kenji López-Alt, salt inhibits Farm-fresh, Free-range birds have the proteins in the eggs from some kind of access to the Vegetarian-fed binding too tightly as they heat outdoors (often better than Ignore this meaningless up, which means your scramble nothing), but the size and marketing lingo. will have a moister, more quality of that area is not “Vegetarian-fed” tender curd and be less likely dictated. Cage-free do not. is especially dicey— to weep (release water). In an Certified Organic ideal world, you’d incorporate Pasture-raised hens are natural Don’t confuse this term omnivores (grub and salt 15 minutes before you start Since this term is not with a stamp of humane hen worms, yum); if they’re cooking so the granules can regulated by the USDA, treatment. Like free-range, “vegetarian,” chances are dissolve into the mix, but even it doesn’t mean anything the birds have unspecified they’re confined indoors. a minute can make a difference.

82 – APRIL 2021 6 4 Climb the Peaks THERE’S MORE THAN When whisked vigorously, the ONE WAY TO FRY proteins in egg whites denature and form new bonds, creating a tight network where air is trapped. These bubbles bring lift and lightness to mousses, chiffon cakes, and meringues. But it’s not all fancy desserts: Whipped whites offer height to pancakes and waffles and can turn a regular omelet into an omelet soufflé. To whip whites successfully, follow these tips.

GET SET FOR SUCCESS Start with room-temp eggs and a totally clean large bowl— even a drop of fat will interfere. If you live on the edge: If you’re craving spice: Some people add a pinch Add plenty of olive oil to a nonstick or A smart trick from the chefs at Canal House. of cream of tartar before they cast-iron skillet, then heat over high until Coat the bottom of a pan with olive oil and start, which prevents over- oil shimmers. Crack in an egg, reduce heat set over medium-high. When oil is warm, whipping and helps the whites to medium-high, and stand back—the egg add ground or crushed spices—paprika, reach a greater volume. will sputter. Cook, basting the whites with turmeric, black pepper—and crack in eggs. the pooling oil, until whites are opaque and Spoon the infused oil over the whites, KNOW THE STAGES bottom is crisp and brown, 1–2 minutes. avoiding yolks, until cooked. When you start beating, your whites will look foamy, like sudsy soap. Next, they’ll reach soft peaks, where they briefly hold their shape before sinking into the bowl. Keep beating (this is when a recipe might have you slowly add sugar) and you’ll get to medium peaks, which keep their shape but bend at the top like a witch’s hat or, as the French call it, bec d’oiseau (bird’s beak). Finally, you’ll reach stiff peaks, which stand tall and straight.

If you want toast but If you need something STOP AT STIFF have crumbs: soft and gentle: Don’t be tempted to continue: Inspired by a famous Zuni Café dish. Melt 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter over low heat. Go too far and the meringue Toast fresh breadcrumbs (fine or coarse) in Crack in an egg, cover the pan, and wait will start to weep. butter or oil over medium heat until golden for the white to set, the yolk to cloud over, brown, then make a shallow space for and the butter to brown slightly, about your egg and fry it until whites are opaque. 3 minutes. Slide egg and drippings onto a Flip it over easy if you want, then drizzle bowl of rice or noodles or atop avocado with a tiny bit of white wine vinegar. toast; drizzle with soy sauce if you like.

5 Love Eggs? You Need a Nonstick Pan

Its slick surface is essential for soft scrambles, seamless over-easies, smooth Japanese tamago, custardy frittatas, and fried eggs that are crispy but not glued to the surface. If you have to choose just one size, ($50; food52.com) go with the versatile 10" pan: We like the Zwilling Madura Plus Nonstick Pan. 8 Get Those Eggs to Room Temperature (and Fast!)

If a recipe calls for room-temp eggs, it’s for good reason: Cold eggs, while useful in certain instances, won’t gain as much volume or homogenize easily into batters. If you can’t spare an hour for your eggs to lose their chill, take a shortcut: •Place the eggs in a bowl. •Fill the bowl with hot water from the tap (it shouldn’t be boiling, for obvious reasons). •Let the eggs temper as you prep your other ingredients, at least five minutes.

9 Soaking boiled eggs in a flavor-packed solution seasons Large Is In Charge them more thoroughly than a simple sprinkling of salt You may like a jumbo egg for ever could. It’s the principle behind pickled eggs, tea your BEC, but stick to large eggs, and soy eggs, which are classic as Korean when you’re making cookies, cakes, and custards. Most banchan and a nice addition to saucy noodles or ramen. baking recipes are developed with large eggs, so switching To make chef Sohui Kim’s soy eggs, bring 3 peeled garlic cloves, ¾ cup soy sauce, up the size could mess with the 3 Tbsp. mirin, 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar, 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, texture and flavor of your final and 2 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. product. This is most important Remove from heat and add 6 peeled seven-minute eggs (see below). Let sit at least in desserts that call for a lot of 1 hour, or cover and chill up to 2 days. Drain eggs, quarter, and sprinkle with toasted eggs (three-plus) and/or rely sesame seeds to serve as a banchan, or use them to top grain salads, fried rice, on their structure and flavor or congee. You could even make egg salad or deviled eggs—just don’t add more salt. (say, lemon curd or a pavlova).

10 Bring On the Boil

For something that

seems so simple (eggs N W

+ water), boiling eggs O R B

can be surprisingly K

1 2 3 4 E R frustrating—especially T Y

Start with hot water. Set a timer. Use an ice bath. Peel under water. M when it comes to the ’ D For easy-peel eggs, That’s seven minutes for Transferring the eggs Keep eggs, still slightly Y B

peeling. For eggs with lower them gingerly, jammy, slightly gooey to icy-cold water halts warm, submerged. This G

yolks set to your liking N I

using a spoon, into yolks, 10 for cooked- their cooking quickly. helps the shells slip off and L Y and unblemished, T

boiling water. Maintain through (but not chalky). Let them hang out also keeps the mess S pearly exteriors, follow a gentle simmer rather For XL or jumbo eggs, until they’re just cool confined to your bowl and D O O these guidelines: than a vigorous bubble. you’ll need more time. enough to handle. out of your sink. F

84 – APRIL 2021 For more ingredient 101s, crystal clear cooking advice, and easygoing recipes, go to eatbasically.com. Design advice for real life. T E I L O J

E R U A L

Y B

O T O H P

; S T C E J O R P

E M O C L E W

Y B

R Renovation guides. O I R E T N I Before-and-after inspiration. Material sources. Everything you need to make a home your own—from the editors of Architectural Digest.

@getclever archdigest.com/clever recipe index sourcebook SHOPPING LIST

SHOP TOUR p. 24 GOOD NEIGHBOR RASPBERRY-AJWAIN JAM, $7; goodneighborshop.com GOOD NEIGHBOR TAHINI BUTTER, $11; goodneighborshop.com HON’S HONEY, $16; honshoney.com KEEPWELL GINGER VINEGAR, $15; keepwellvinegar.com NORMANN COPENHAGEN WHISK, $20; normann-copenhagen.com SLOWDOWN STUDIO SAKAMOTO THROW, $230; slowdownstudio.com

THE POUR p. 30 CARDINAL SPIRITS VODKA SODA, $4; warehousewinesandspirits.com DON CICCIO E FIGLI LA PERLA AMBROSIA SPRITZ, $25 per 4-pack; donciccioefigli.com EMPIRICAL SPIRITS CAN 02, $45 per 4-pack; empirical.co GOLDEN RULE MARGARITA, $20 per 4-pack; goldenrulespirits.com TIP TOP NEGRONI, $32 for 8 cans; tiptopcocktails.com

HOLI HAI! pp. 54–61 P. 60 HOLI HOORAY HOLI POWDER, Retro-chic poke cake for dessert P. 53 $25 for 10 packs; holihooray.com EGG HEADS pp. 81–84 P. 83 ZWILLING MADURA PLUS COOK THE COVER Spring Chili With PASTA Mushroom Matzo NONSTICK PAN, $50; food52.com Leek and Artichoke Greens p.68 Baked Pasta and Kugel p.75 Fondue p.52 Yemeni Chicken Leeks With Anchovy Simplest Rosti p.64 TRAVEL PLANNER Matzo Ball Soup p.79 Cream p.64 APPETIZERS Spring Chili With SHOP TOUR SANDWICH POULTRY p. 24 Bombay Sandwich Greens p.68 GOOD NEIGHBOR 3827 Falls p.60 Bombay Sandwich Burnt Masala Wings p.59 SIDE Rd., Baltimore; 443-627-8919; Burnt Masala Wings p.60 goodneighborshop.com Warm Chicken and Mushroom Matzo p.59 MAIN COURSES DISH DECODED Swiss Chard Salad Kugel p.75 p. 27 Dahi Puri p.56 SEAFOOD p.14 BRANDONI PEPPERONI 5881 Saturn St., Leek and Artichoke Brothy Coconut- CONDIMENT Los Angeles; 323-306-4968; brandoni- Fondue p.52 Yemeni Chicken Mustard Fish p.16 Matzo Ball Soup p.79 Scallion Chutney pepperoni.com Spring Vegetable Spicy Shrimp Pilaf p.56 1971: A YEAR THAT CHANGED .

Za’atar Chicken O Bhajia p.59 p.68 I Cutlets With Cabbage FOOD FOREVER pp. 36–53 G MEAT DESSERTS N Yuzu Kosho Deviled ACME BREAD CO. A

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Eggs p.75 S Beef Stroganoff p.23 Beet Halwa p.60 Berkeley, CA; 510-524-1327; VEGETARIAN E I

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Bombay Sandwich B Mango Lassi p.59 Black Pepper Beef Olla Ganache p.79 510-488-3637; sipalkalirye.com p.60 G

BARBUTO N and Celery Stir-Fry 113 Horatio St., NYC; 212- I SOUPS L

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Soup p.18 Apricots p.76 Soup p.18 Cake p.29 914-366-9600; bluehillfarm.com O N

COSECHA CAFE AND BOMBERA A 907 R G

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86 – APRIL 2021

Lana Condor’s Dream Dinner Party The breakout star of the Netflix triology To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before would put wizards on the guest list and berry pie on the menu

No cauldron of your own? Condor likes Great Jones’s The Dutchess Dutch oven ($155; greatjonesgoods.com).

THOUGH WE’VE ONLY myself, it’s mind-boggling to Just you and Snape? filled with a meat and herb just met for this interview, I’m me that he could live with two I’d invite my brother. Like medley. Dessert wine and a convinced Lana Condor would faces so convincingly. Meals me, he was adopted. I have marionberry pie from Whidbey be just as happy working open people up in ways that always wanted to have Pies to finish. I grew up with professionally with food as she they might not be expecting. a deeper discussion about this pie and eat it during every is working in Hollywood. The Through my cooking, he would his feelings on adoption. special occasion. acclaimed lead of the Netflix let his guard down and we Maybe he’d think that if films based on Jenny Han’s could see a little of his heart. this badass Snape is opening Let’s say the dinner party is novel To All The Boys I’ve Loved up, then he can do it too. a hit: Snape reveals his Before, Condor has a passion What would you cook him? inner heart and your brother that’s infectious, whether it’s I’ve never met a bowl of soup So it’s you, Snape, and opens up. Where do you go for developing her own that doesn’t feel like a hug. So your brother around the next day to take a day recipes or sleuthing the best I would make him this awesome a cauldron of soup? What off from cooking? poke in Seattle. Now starring soup that I love to make else do you serve? There is a tiny little run-of-the- in To All the Boys: Always and whenever I’m feeling down. My brother isn’t an adventurous mill-looking convenience store Forever, Condor talks about The soup would say: “Listen, eater. I don’t think he’s ever called 45th Stop N Shop & the magical powers of soup— not all kids are bad. I got you.” had coconut cream in his life. Poke Bar. You wouldn’t even and more. —DAWN DAVIS So I would make pizza. We give it a second glance. What’s in this soup all got into baking new things They have Japanese snacks, You can invite anyone dead you’ve developed? during quarantine and for me seaweed, gyoza, sake, and or alive, fictional or real, It’s a coconut-cream-based it was pizza dough. (I’m still the best poke I’ve ever had in to this Dream Dinner Party. soup that also has a little working on sourdough—I’m my life. They don’t give you Who do you pick? chicken broth, mirepoix, a little freaked out about it.) options other than: Do you Professor Snape of Harry Potter and a sweet Italian sausage I would love to make him want rice or salad? and Which because I wonder how he that I crumble up and get a delicious thin-crust pizza freshly caught fish do you has spent a good portion of his nice and toasty, plus some with mozzarella from King’s want? You don’t get to pick and life keeping such an intense fingerling potatoes and a huge Mozzarella at Ballard Farmers choose the toppings. I have secret? As someone who has handful of kale. I crisp up Market in Seattle. I’d also a lot of respect for people who a hard time keeping secrets bacon for garnish. It’s very easy. serve homemade dumplings know their dish is that good.

88 – APRIL 2021 ILLUSTRATION BY JOANA AVILLEZ

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