Papua New Guinea Birding in Paradise III 30Th June to 17Th July 2019 (18 Days) Trip Report
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Papua New Guinea Birding in Paradise III 30th June to 17th July 2019 (18 days) Trip Report Flame Bowerbird by Holger Teichmann Tour Leaders: Adam Walleyn and Gareth Robbins Trip report compiled by Adam Walleyn Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea – Birding in Paradise III 2019 2 Tour in Detail Meeting up mid-afternoon in Port Moresby, our international group set out for the Pacific Adventist University. A quick stop at some rice fields en route yielded a nice sighting of Raja Shelducks and then we continued on our way. The grounds were birdy as always and the highlights were many including Black-backed Butcherbird, Fawn- breasted Bowerbird (with an active bower), roosting Papuan Frogmouth and a large flock of Gray-headed Mannikins. While watching the mannikins, an Australian Hobby dashed in and grabbed one right before our very eyes before carrying it off to a dead tree and eating it! We returned to the area later, once the birds resumed feeding and found a few Chestnut- breasted Mannikins amongst the large flock. Other birds of note during a very pleasant afternoon included Plumed and Wandering Whistling Ducks, Grey Teals (a scarce bird locally), Australian White Ibis (aka Bin Chickens!), roosting Nankeen Night Herons, photogenic Masked Lapwings and Comb- Comb-crested Jacana by Holger Teichmann crested Jacanas, Bar-shouldered Dove, Orange-fronted Fruit Dove, Torresian Imperial Pigeons, Forest Kingfisher, Red-cheeked Parrot, a very obliging Streak-headed Honeyeater, Rufous-banded and Yellow- tinted Honeyeater, Australasian Figbird, Metallic and Singing Starling and Yellow-faced Myna (aka the Leonard Bird!). What a thoroughly birdy and enjoyable start to the trip. Early the next morning, we were heading up the road to the Sogeri Plateau and Varirata National Park. Our first stop was at the famous Raggiana Bird-of-paradise lek and, we were in for an incredible treat this morning as the males were in an absolute frenzy. We spent about an hour watching a dozen males displaying for all their worth to the onlooking females. What an event to witness and easily one of the highlights of the trip. Spending some time in a forest clearing was very productive as we recorded Collared Sparrowhawk, Amboyna Cuckoo Dove, Beautiful Fruit Dove, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Black-capped Lory, Papuan Black Myzomela and, Green-backed, Plain, Tawny-breasted and Elegant Honeyeater, Barred and Boyer’s Cuckooshrike, Hooded Pitohui, and Black-fronted White-eye. It was a lot to take in! Much of our day at Varirata Sacred Kingfisher by Magda Niedzialek was spent quietly walking forest trails. We hit a couple of interesting mixed-species flocks that held some of the more sought after birds like Goldenface and Growling Riflebird, amongst many others like Fairy Gerygone, Black Berrypecker, Stout-billed Cuckooshrike, Black Cicadabird, Grey Whistler, Variable Shrikethrush, Chestnut-bellied Fantail, Spot- Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Papua New Guinea Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea – Birding in Paradise III 2019 3 winged, and Frilled Monarchs and Crinkle-collared Manucode. The rainforest here is full of shy and secretive species, and we did well on many of these today, getting excellent views of Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher, Barred Owlet Nightjar, Wompoo Fruit Dove (with a flimsy nest), White-faced Robin, Sooty Thicket Fantail, Rusty Mouse Warbler, and even the elusive Forest Bittern as it flushed up from a streambed into the canopy. We got tantalizingly close to a Papuan Eagle that we stalked as it was calling regularly, but in the end, could not find it. In the later afternoon, we birded the eucalyptus forest on the park’s edge and quickly found a couple of localized White-bellied Whistlers, along with Pink-spotted and Orange- bellied Fruit Doves, Lemon-bellied Flyrobin and White-throated Honeyeater. An exceptional first full day in the field! The next morning saw us boarding a flight to Mt Hagen, and after picking up a few supplies, drove Raggiana Bird-of-paradise by Holger Teichmann up to Rondon Ridge, where we were warmly welcomed for three nights stay in the trip’s most luxurious accommodation. Our rooms had a commanding view over the Waghi Valley and across to the alpine peaks of Mount Hagen. After settling in and enjoying our first of many delicious meals here, we began exploring some of the trails around the lodge. It was hot and sunny, not ideal conditions for birding the cloud forest, and so with little to see on the trails, we staked out some fruiting and flowering trees near to the lodge. A patient wait paid off as we saw several male Greater Lophorinas with their blue breast shields, Mountain and Red-collared Myzomela, Yellow-browed and Ornate Melidectes, Fan-tailed Berrypecker, Papuan White- eyes (or are they??), and a very cooperative Black-throated Robin. With first light, we headed up the ridge trail and slowly birded our way through the cloud forest. Mixed species flocks were encountered in a couple places as we went up, and a male Wattled Ploughbill was in one of them, performing impeccably as it sat on an open branch over our heads! Other nice species as we walked up included Large Scrubwren, Brown-backed, and Regent Whistlers, Black and Dimorphic Fantails and Slaty Robin. Another major highlight was given by a Spotted Jewel Babbler that gave us two very close passes. Arriving at a clearing, we set up for a long watch and had wonderful montane bird life for the remainder of the morning – Bar-tailed Cuckoo Doves, Plum- Frilled Monarch by Michael Cox faced, Papuan and Orange-billed Lorikeets, Black-throated Honeyeater, Black-breasted Boatbill, poisonous Blue-capped Ifrits and a much appreciated Garnet Robin. The main highlights in the clearing were of the Bird-of-paradise variety as we had great looks at feeding Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia and a brief male Brown Sicklebill. Black Sicklebills were heard through the morning but never came to the clearing, while the show-stopper was a male King of Saxony that performed throughout the morning and we could not have asked for better views, even seeing the neon green color in the inside of its mouth! Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Papua New Guinea Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea – Birding in Paradise III 2019 4 Around noon, our lunches arrived, being carried up by some of the lodge staff and after enjoying lunch, we started to make our way back down the ridge. The walk down was excellent, we had a brief encounter with a male Black Sicklebill, a scarce Yellowish-streaked Honeyeater, Grey Thornbill, Hooded Cuckooshrikes and a big flock of Papuan Sittella. As we were nearing the lodge, the rain clouds that had been threatening for some time let loose and we got a good drenching, but everyone made it back to the shelter of the lodge with big smiles on their faces! After the rains cleared away, we headed out again to check out the fruiting trees around the lodge during the late afternoon and were thrilled to see a female Blue Bird-of-paradise amongst the regulars, capping off another truly excellent day in the field. After the heavy rains of yesterday, we suspected that the fruiting trees would be busy this morning and so started out there. Indeed, they were! The Blue Bird-of-paradise showed extremely well again and was joined by several Greater Lophorinas, including White-faced Robin by Holger Teichmann some mind-blowing views of the males. Bird activity, in general, was excellent and waves of mixed- species flocks held such scarce birds as Madarasz’s Tiger Parrot, MacGregor’s Bowerbird, Black Pitohui, Slaty-headed Longbill, and Streaked and Mid-mountain Berrypeckers. We then headed back into the forest trails, where we were happy to have a good sighting of the scarce Black-mantled Goshawk and an incredible male Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia along with further sightings of Yellowish-streaked Honeyeater. After lunch, about half the group headed down into the valley to experience the remarkable culture of the Huli Wigmen and the Asaro Mudmen, just two of the more notable of the country’s hundreds of tribes. The other half of the group returned to the forest trails which were predictably rather quiet but well worth the effort as they did offer up exceptional views of a Lesser Ground Robin as well as another Madarasz’s Tiger Parrot and both Fan-tailed and Rufous-throated Bronze Cuckoos. Those who headed out after dinner for a nocturnal bird foray had good views of Papuan Boobook and heard multiple Feline Owlet Nightjars at very close range, but the bird somehow eluded us! With the final few early morning hours at Rondon Ridge, we spent our time back at the fruiting trees where the now regular Blues and Lophorinas were joined by an exceptional male Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia. But we were really hoping for a good sighting of MacGregor’s Bowerbird. We eventually had a brief sighting of one, but it disappeared all Papuan Eagle by Holger Teichmann too quickly. Fortunately, our local guide Joseph emerged from the forest saying he had just found a fruiting tree where they were visiting and after a short wait, we were enjoying excellent views of a male, replete with his long orange crest. What an amazing finale to a very productive stay at Rondon Ridge! We then descended the valley down to Mount Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Papua New Guinea Trip Report – RBL Papua New Guinea – Birding in Paradise III 2019 5 Hagen where Great Woodswallows and Black- headed Whistlers were seen. We switched vehicles for the drive up to Kumul Lodge.