Costa Rica

Through the Lens

A Greentours Tour Report

1st – 14th September 2010

Led by Chris Gardner

Day 1 UK to

We all met up at the departure gate flew across the pond, breezed through customs and then continued onto San Jose, arriving a touch early. Drew, our driver, negotiated the somewhat confusing route to Bosque de Paz.

Day 2 Bosque de Paz

Hummers galore followed by an orchid feast summed up the morning. The feeders and many shrubs of the verbena Stachytarpheta frantzii were thronging with at first light and all morning with dozens of featuring seven in total. The largest, the Purple Sabrewings, were perhaps the most numerous, harrying the other species and bossing the feeders as Green-crowned Brilliants, Magnificent Hummingbirds and Purple-throated Mountain-gems vied for a share of the sugar. A Black-bellied was busy among the nearby Stachytarpheta as was the odd Scintillant Hummingbird and in a larger stand of the same shrub were a few Green Violetears. Bigger movements in the bushes revealed the presence of Black Guans and these became bolder as feeding time approached, venturing out into the open for great views with up to twelve at once. Chestnut-capped Brush-finches busied themselves on the ground below. Obviously much time was spent photographing these wonderful subjects, Barbara even lured several hummingbirds in extra close by holding out a red encouraging a Green-crowned Brilliant to come and investigate each of us in turn, perching either on us or our camera equipment! Post breakfast we carried on in the same vein but after a hour of so we ventured in to the orchid garden which contained a collection of three hundred species from the surrounding forests including sweetly scented Trichopelia suavis, long

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sprays of Oncidium bracteatum, dense pendant masses of mustard-yellow Pleurothallis johnsonii nestled among the moss as well as many delicate dwarf species such as Pleurothallis spp, Restrepia trichoglossa, Lepanthes guardian, Sigfmatostalix picta, sinister Dracula erythrochaeta and the lovely deepest maroon Masdevallia rolfeana.

A male Coati appeared just before lunch and was seen having an afternoon snooze on a rooftop. Our own afternoon was spent in the forest were we found a selection of interesting things from huge lichens to caterpillars and broad millipedes to the purple flowered shrub Poikilacanthus macranthus, glimpses of glasswings and electric blue-striped Mesomesia grandis, or a young White-throated Spadebill being fed by a parent and a mixed flock of birds that included Hairy Woodpecker, Flame-throated Warbler, Tropical Parula, Three-striped Warbler and Spotted Woodcreeper as Grey-breasted Woodwrens sung melodiously from the tangled vegetation. Arriving back at the lodge a family of at least six White-nosed Coatis were feeding at the forest edge.

Our after dinner wander turned up many fine moths, katydids, large green beetles (three species), a Rain (Eleutherodactylus sp) and three Glass (Centrolenella prosoblepon).

Day 3 Bosque de Paz and to Laguna Lagartos

A familiar gang of hummers and skulking Black Guans were around the feeders at first light as we walked around the grounds and onwards along the main road. Brown-capped Vireos were common and there was a Spotted Woodcreeper and Tufted Flycatcher. Further along the road was a noisy and busy group of Ochraceous Wrens and as we returned for breakfast there was Smoky-brown Woodpecker and a pretty Heliconius clysonymus . The rest of the morning was spent photographing orchids we’d missed yesterday such as Acineta densa then looking for more among the verbena Stachytarpheta frantzii where the resident Purple-throated Mountain Gem, Black-bellied Hummingbird and Green Violetear spent the day. We found the handsome blue-washed skipper Urbanus pronus, a large cream-spotted grasshopper and Slaty Flowerpiecer whilst Steve returned from a trip into the forest with a photograph of a Green-fronted Lancebill he’d seen perched on a river boulder. Fred, Jill and I decided to try and find the same and walked to the location but had no luck although we did see the delicate glasswing Greta anette.

We had an afternoon’s drive ahead of us and left Bosque de Paz by one o’clock driving the convoluted roads down to the lowlands as Black and Turkey Vultures swooped over the hills. Our final stretch along the bumpy road to Laguna del Lagartos was punctuated by stops for a pair of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks perched in a tree with a beautifully marked Bare- throated Tiger Heron and then Red-lored Parrots arriving in at the lodge in time to watch five Scarlet Macaws fly to roost in a distant tree.

Various moths, beetles and geckos joined us for dinner.

Day 4 Laguna del Lagartos

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A superb morning began with raucous macaws flying over (if we were up in time to see them) and then a techicolour display of birdlife followed, feeding on and around the hanging from a tree all viewed with ease from the large balcony with Chestnut-mandibled and Keel- billed Toucans, Collared Aracaris, Black-cheeked Woodpeckers (yes woodpeckers eat bananas!), Montezuma’s Oropendulas, lovely Brown-hooded Parrots and Passerini’s, Palm and Blue-grey Tanagers. Two Red-lored Parrots also landed very close to feed on large round fruits in a small tree. As we ate breakfast a male Coati appeared and climbed up onto a second feeder to eat before running off with a large banana and there were a few Central American Spider Monkeys crashing through the trees on a the far side of the lagoon.

At eight-thirty we ventured into the tract of primary forest adjoining the lodge, although a recent tornado had wreaked some havoc in places bringing down many large trees. Despite this much remained undamaged and produced a superb array of mini-beasts beginning with the dazzling red and blue Strawberry Poison Frog which we were to see dozens of this morning. There followed various orb-web spiders, anole , wasps, leafcutter ants on a vast nest, dragonflies including a gigantic Gomphid which buzzed around a clearing (but sadly never settled), a remarkable bristly caterpillar and then a huge Morpho peleides, orange yellow Phoebis argante and the dazzling blue and red Rhetus periander. Critter of the day though was probably the neatly coiled Hog-nosed Pit-viper we found sat on the trail. More followed with a stunning iridescent green wasp, a juvenile Green-and-black Poison Frog and the butterfly with lovely pink-red hind-wings when it flew.

Our late afternoon stroll took us first along the road where we found butterflies such as Adelpha cytherea, Heliconius doris and a fine skipper, fine flowering of ‘hotlips’ Psychotria sp and what looked like a Costa Rican poinsettia Warszewiczia coccinea as well as a pair of Pale-billed Woodpeckers. Walking around the large lagoon a superb Green Basilisk was found among a large clump of stricta and a couple of juveniles sprinted across the water further along before we returned to the lodge balcony to watch for roosting Scarlet Macaws (15) and emerging Short-tailed Nighthawks. Post-dinner we went on the ‘Caiman tour’ seeing two large Spectacled Caimans come ashore for their chicken supper.

Day 5 Laguna Lagartos

A loud yowling call woke me at four forty-five and crawling out of bed I shone a torch in the direction of the noise and found a Black-and-white Owl. A fine way to start the day and birds featured strongly this morning with a visit to a local garden. The small flower-filled garden with its banana feeders was a magnet for birds and we managed to photograph a technicolour mix including Shining, Red-legged and Green Honeycreepers, Golden-hooded Tanagers, Orange-chinned Parakeets, Olive-backed Euphonias, Black-cowled Oriole, etc (seventeen species in total). Various butterflies were feeding on the too with Banded Peacock, at least three heliconids and a Variable Cracker. Back at the lodge a big gang of coatis came and raided bananas.

We went back into the forest in the afternoon finding the rare Morpho granadensis along with Antirrhea miltiades and Pierella helvina. There was also a stunning adult Green-and-black Poison Frog and among the fallen branches of a tree the green orchid Trigonidium egertonianum. After

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this we waited for Scarlet Macaws to fly to roost near the bird hide where dozens of dragonflies were hawking overhead and a Lineated Woodpecker perched high in a tree. A post-dinner nightwalk was very productive for spiders finding hairy tarantula, golden-orb-web and a species that throws its web onto victims.

Day 6 To Savegre via Braullio Carillio

A misty dawn greeted us, the vapours soon dissipating as we set about looking for Great Curassows in the pristine habitat that was the lodge compost bin – these normally shy forest giants had taken to picking through our leftovers! There was only a Grey-necked Wood-Rail at our first attempt, although a handsome bird in its own right. We searched around elsewhere but no luck only to return to the bins where Barbara had just seen two birds arrive and disappear again. We left it another ten minutes and then at our third attempt we all got to see the beautifully patterned female and a juvenile bird at very close range.

Leaving the lodge’s pleasant environs we had a long transfer to the mountains south of San Jose but hadn’t made a mile before we stopped for an Amazon Kingfisher, Northern Jacana and Reddish Egret at a marshy lake. Various brief stops for photos of Black Vultures and Cattle Egrets followed before we made it back to smooth tarmac roads and then a coffee stop. Heavy showers and winding roads made for slow progress at first but then we picked up enough to arrive at a lunchtime restaurant close to our intended natural history stops. We could hardly hear ourselves shout over the incredible din of an intense cloudburst on the restaurant’s corrugated iron roof, but lunch was nonetheless very tasty and the rain had stopped by the time we’d finished.

Driving a short distance we stopped at a now disused hummingbird garden. At first there seemed to be little around but then there appeared the stunning Snowcap, a gorgeous purple- red hummingbird with neat pure white cap. Green Hermit and female Violet-headed Hummingbird also put in an appearance and there were many large black Carpenter Bees. The ultra-lush forests of Braullio Carillio were our next stop with handsome broad-leaved palms and red-bracted beneath the moss-clad trees. These wonderful forests are also home to Tent-making Bats and I tried to locate an occupied ‘tent’ (formed by chewing two lines across a palm leave that collapses the leaf around the bat in a waterproof home). The rain had now returned and was making it difficult to concentrate and despite searching over a dozen tents none had residents.

It was three o’clock and we had to complete our journey driving on up and past incredible vistas of unbroken forested hills cloaked in amazing forest and then onto San Jose which involved a lengthy drag through until we began climbing again into equally lush forests of the Cerro de la Muerte the roads lined with the round leaves of Gunnera insignis, purple flowered Fuchsia paniculata and shrubby ragworts, arriving at Savegre as it got dark.

Day 7 Savegre

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Early morning birdwatching began with the gathering throng around the hummingbird feeders with many Green Violetears and Magnificent Hummingbirds with the odd White- throated Mountain Gem thrown in. The diminutive Volcano Hummingbird preferred the many bushes of Fuchsia paniculata. Ruddy-capped Nightingale Thrushes hopped about the under trees and Yellow-thighed Finches squabbled with Rufous-collared Sparrows before we descended to the small river seeing a pair of dapper Grey-breasted Wood-Wrens on the way. We’d hoped to find American Dippers here but none appeared and soon it was time for breakfast.

The weather was fantastic with blue skies and sunshine and it looked very promising for our trip to the paramo, but before that there was the small matter of finding the bird the area is most noted for – the Resplendent Quetzal – and we were in luck, seeing another group with telescopes trained towards a large avocado tree it meant only one thing. We watched the stunning iridescent green and red male for a while as he moved about from perch to perch grabbing fruits as he went and when a female arrived later on this gave him something to chase between meals. Pushing on up to the paramo we turned onto the road to the radio masts reaching a giddy 3500metres with superb clear views across the extensive tracts of paramo. The vegetation was dominated by smaller shrubs and dwarf Chusqea subtessellata bamboo with many interesting flowers scattered among them from lilac Lobelia irazuensis and brilliant red Castilleja talamancensis, to white Eryngium humile flowers, slender green Halenia rhyacophila, yellow Hypercium strictum and pale pink Geranium guatemalense in dwarf mats of trailing, orange berried Nertera granadensis plants were the tiny bird’s-nest fungi complete with tiny ‘’ and there were fine stands of club mosses and many lichens. One of the high altitude avian specialities appeared after a while, the Volcano Junco and there were also Sooty-capped Bush-tanagers. The weather held fair as we drove onto a nearby restaurant/café passing superb stands of the immense thistle Cirsium subcoriaceum and the ‘giant parsnip’ Myrrhidendron donnellsmithii. At the café the hummingbird feeders were busy and included among their visitors the dazzling Fiery-throated Hummingbird as Large-footed Finches scratched around among the leaves below the building.

The afternoon session began with Slaty Flowerpiercer and Stripe-tailed Hummingbird before we found another male Resplendent Quetzal perched much closer than this mornings birds. He flew after a while and we tried to relocate him in the nearby woods but with no luck, although there was the compensation of finding a pair of Long-tailed Silky Flycatchers feeding on orange berries. Our late afternoon plan had been to look for the same species at a different location a few miles away but as we left the lodge Jill spotted what was almost certainly the same male bird perched on a branch in full view. Again he didn’t stay long but some of us got pictures and we all had great views of the bird. The last action for the day was provided by a Collared Trogon before a heavy shower sent us all indoors, the prelude to a much feistier storm that had at least passed by dinner time.

Day 8 To Bosque del Cabo

Our early morning birding found Orange-bellied Trogon, Northern Waterthrush and four Acorn Woodpeckers before we began our journey to the Osa Peninsula driving up across the again clear paramo with excellent views of the erupting Turrialba Volcano across the forested

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ridges. The winding descent to the Pacific coast brought another change in forest with large areas of cecropia and coconut palms as the odd Brown Pelican cruised along indicating how close the water was. There were frequent views of the ocean and arriving at Palmar Sur we eventually found the right terminal – the newer yellow shed – and our plane. We were too many and too overloaded with gear so two flights were needed to get us to Puerto Jimenez, although it was only a fifteen minute flight so this was no problem. Driving the bumpy road to the lodge we saw Yellow-headed Caracara, Cattle Egrets and Mangrove Swallows although there were no monkeys on the monkey crossing.

However, entering the lodge grounds we passed through superb, lush lowland forest that had to be good for a monkey or two and indeed after a tasty lunch a White-faced Capuchin appeared in a palm tree to get all things primate underway. A huge was flying under the roof before we went to the very comfortable ocean view rooms and dumping the bags Barbara, Steve and I set off for a wander immediately seeing a limping White-nosed Coati, closely followed by a Roadside Hawk, Agoutis, then at a small pool was a small wasp nest encrusted with wasps. A Slaty-tailed Trogon proved hard to see well, but soon Central American Spider Monkeys were appearing and swinging by arm or tail through the trees. We caught up with a large troop and watched them acrobatically feeding in a palm tree, the females with babies clinging on, unperturbed by the ups and downs. Further along and more noises revealed a few Mantled Howler Monkeys moving about, eventually showing well, but not before we’d watched a mother Great Tinamou and two chicks cross the road ahead. Back near the cabins and a pair of Crested Caracaras were scratching about for food and some saw a mother and calf Humpback Whale from their cabins.

Day 9 Bosque del Cabo

Strange sounds were all around from first light. Scarlet Macaws flew along the clifftop whilst White-faced Cappuchins and Chestnut-mandibled Toucans were feeding near Barbara’s cabin before we set off. The limping coati (‘Hop-along’) was about together with a couple of others of his kind and there were the usual agoutis too. However, what drew us was the thunderous roar of male Mantled Howler Monkeys that seemed quite close at first but such was the power of their roar they were actually a bit further off. Nonetheless we tracked them down and had superb views and audio experience of the troop as they competed with another more distant troop producing a quintessential neotropical sound that filled the forest. A Central American Dwarf Squirrel also appeared springing athletically from tree to tree. Breakfast followed soon after but this was not without incident as first a Grey Four-eyed Opossum scuttled nonchalantly across the terrace, up the library stairs and onto the roof. This was followed by a female Green-and-black Poison Frog with a tadpole on her back that also made her way across the terrace.

The wildlife was dense and varied today, continuing with a mixed flock of birds that included Lesser Greenlet, White-lined Tanager, Streaked Flycatcher, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Shining Honeycreeper, Cherrie’s Tanager, Violaceous Trogon and lovely Bay-headed Tanagers. A tiny hummingbird nest was found too. There were many butterflies on the wing, mainly heliconids including erato, pachinus, hecale, and the superb but flighty Green Heliconid. We climbed a small rise and entered the Titi Trail almost immediately finding a cryptically

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camouflaged leaf-like moth, a large male howler monkey and then the bizarre saprophytic Helosia cayennensis that looked much more like a fungus than a plant. The terrestrial orchid Oeceoclades maculata followed as the handsome Pierella helvina glided low over the leaf litter. An extraordinary bug was next with bizarre red appendages on the end of the abdomen before distinctive chirps and the crashing of leaves led us to a large troop of Central American Squirrel Monkeys. Cute little guys, they scampered up and down the branches looking for and we followed them through the forest for half an hour or more also seeing a dazzling blue Helicopter Damselfly Megaloprepes caerulea and the Great Owl Butterfly Caligo atreus. Finally leaving the monkeys we hadn’t gone far when we encountered a small troop of monkey number four - Central American Spider Monkey - that were feeding contentedly on palm fruits and provided for decent photos. A beautifully marked second Owl Butterfly was settled on a tree trunk – Caligo eurilochus – and as we photographed this, two Black-faced Trogons arrived. It was moving towards lunchtime, but try as we might we couldn’t move faster than more sightings allowed us. A dazzling male Red-capped Manakin was next and we even got to see his moonwalking display as he danced from branch to branch. A large mixed flock of birds then appeared including White-throated Shrike-Tanager, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Cinnamon Becard, Plain Xenops and Scarlet-rumped Caciques. A second Helicopter Damselfly completed the ‘morning’ as we made the last determined march for lunch!

In contract the afternoon was much quieter with few sightings but some splendid huge buttress, vine and strangler fig-clad trees, a large Common Basilisk at the larger pond and more spider monkeys as we wandered to and from the large tropical garden via the suspension bridge.

Our foray to the small pool after dinner produced Hourglass Frogs, Northern Cat-eyed Snakes and an immense Central American Bullfrog, quite the biggest frog any of us had ever seen.

Day 10 Bosque del Cabo

We returned to the larger pond this morning where on arrival there were a couple of Spider Monkeys and also a brilliant Blue Flasher Skipper Astraptes fulgerator feeding on a heliconia the combination of metallic blue and orange quite striking. A large Heliconius hecale butterfly also arrived a bit later to feed on the same flowers and at the pond were many dragonflies of at least eight species including the deep pink Orthetrum ferrugineum, blue-headed Drythemis multipunctata and dark wing-tipped Uracis umbua. A huge water bug Lethocerus sp was also seen and this may have caused the one of the numerous ‘shoals’ of tadpoles to start leaping, neigh, breaching from the water. A walk into the forest found Blue-crowned Manakin, Great Tinamou and three Lineated Woodpeckers as well as the tiniest of Rain Frogs.

As we loitered waiting for lunch Phillip the resident naturalist pointed out a remarkable Saddleback Moth caterpillar, with green body, black bristles at each end (it was hard to work which end did what) and a transparent window in the back where the pulsating innards could be seen. Not long after lunch he also appeared with a slender Barred Forest Racer. The Scarlet Macaws were feeding in the grounds during the afternoon tempting us out to try and capture them in flight or at least in the open.

Jill, Steve and I walked down the Pacific Trail a bit later to look at the crashing breakers and watch a fishing boat with a trail of Magnificent Frigatebirds, Brown Boobies and Brown

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Pelicans go by. Crucially there was a Spotted Sandpiper on the rocks removing the risk of a wader free trip! Riverside Wrens were calling as we climbed back up having enjoyed the sea air but back in time for some important hammock-time.

Tonight the Red-eyed Frogs put in an appearance with a well posed individual on a palm and an amplexus pair. A Common Opossum was also seen as we walked to the pond. Day 11 Bosque del Cabo

Rain stopped play for the morning birdwatching but had cleared completely by the time we’d finished breakfast. We got a ride up to the start of the trail and began walking through the old teak plantation with the verges packed with orange-bracted Heliconia latispatha around which hummed Purple-crowned Fairy, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and Crowned Woodnymph. As we photographed the flowers a Pale-billed Woodpecker flew across and then a telltale squeak revealed a troop of Squirrel Monkeys closeby. Various butterflies were around including a beautifully posing Pierella helvina and other mini-beasts included a phasmid and termites. Some splendid dragonflies held us up for a while with the brilliant red Libellula herculea and a long- abdomened Gomphid. The road descended for a way and then we met a group of workers, one of whom told us we’d come the wrong way and had to walk back up the hill! The return wasn’t too arduous and we found a bizarre ‘stretch’-weevil and then a mixed flock of birds including White-throated Shrike-tanager, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Cinnamon Becard and Dot-winged Antwren. A different forest track took us past some wonderful trees with spreading buttress roots and immense colonies of leafcutter ants. We rejoined the right track and arrived soon after at the large pond, stopping further on for a weird forest fruit before crossing the suspension bridge arriving in perfect time for lunch. Barbara had remained around the lodge and had photographed among other things the rarely seen bright green Canopy .

Steve and I went out in the afternoon finding the truly extraordinary hollow fungus Staheliomyces cinctus, the Swiss Cheese Stinkhorn with a collar of slime, but with no inner part only a reticulate column narrowed near the top. There were also earthstars, a hummingbird nest and Green-and-black Poison Frogs as we continued, finding two Crested Caracara stalking the tropical garden lawn. Entering the forest there was a succession of superb forest trees with amazing roots, stilt palms and a Chestnut-backed Antbird, but by then light had deteriorated and gentle rain started curtailing the photography for the day.

After dinner we had a session reviewing Barbara’s pictures on the lodge projector including a superb improvised shot of a male Purple Sabrewing and the rarely seen Canopy Lizard.

Day 12 Bosque del Cabo to San Jose

There was time for a last look around the grounds this morning before we left, Barbara and I going off to look at a hummingbird nest and finding the green orchid Epidendrum barbeyanum and another superb Staheliomyces cinctus that had obviously come up during the night and was very fresh. I also caught a Pug-nosed Anole a well camouflaged forest lizard. Saying goodbye to the very comfortable lodge we drove through the forest and back to Puerto Jiminez seeing Yellow-headed Caracara sliding off the slippery backs of cows on the way. The flight back to San Jose took only forty five minutes and soon enough we were tucking into a big lunch as the

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rain came down outside. There was the chance to review some of the images taken by Steve before our next appointment with food. The rain returned again in the evening making us all glad for the excellent weather we’d enjoyed during the holiday.

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Day 13 & 14 The journey home

An early start, perhaps too early, but we were soon through the formalities of the airport at San Jose and drinking coffee before a smooth clear flight to the US passing over the large virgin tracts of lowland forest in north-east Costa Rica. Onwards flights were slightly delayed but otherwise homes were reached as planned.

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Systematic List Number 1 Birds

Although only 169 taxa were seen and heard, this holiday was primarily aimed at photography, so the total really represents the incidental birds seen during the course of taking pictures of other things!

Great Tinamou Tinamus major A mother and two chicks crossing the road at Bosque del Cabo. Its’ mournful whistle was heard each evening there and at Bosque del Cabo and Laguna Lagartos Brown Booby Sula leucogaster Occasional birds flying along the coast at Bosque del Cabo Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Common along Pacific coasts Magnificent Fregata magnificens Common along Pacific coast Frigatebird Bare-throated Tiger- Tigrisoma mexicanum Stunning bird seen very well en route to Laguna Heron Lagartos Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens One near Laguna Lagartos Great Egret Casmerodius albus A few on the Osa Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Near Laguna Lagartos Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common and widespread in open country, farms, etc Black-bellied Dendrocygna autumnalis Two en route to Laguna Lagartos Whistling Duck Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Abundant and widespread Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Abundant and widespread Black-shouldered Elanus caeruleus Pastureland near Laguna Lagartos Kite White Hawk Leucopternis albicollis Heard only at Bosque del Cabo Mangrove Black Buteogallus subtilis Frequent near the cabins at Bosque del Cabo Hawk Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris One seen daily at Bosque del Cabo Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis One at Savegre Yellow-headed Milvago chimachima Bosque del Cabo Caracara Crested Caracara Polyborus plancus A pair foraging dail;y around the cabins at Bosque del Cabo Black Guan Chamaepetes unicolor Very common at Bosque de Paz Great Currasow Crax rubra Impressive bird, two at Laguna Lagartos seen very well Gray-necked Wood- Aramides cajanea Sen very well at Laguna Lagartos also en route to Rail Bosque del Cabo Common Moorhen Gallinule chloropus One near Laguna Lagartos Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa One as we left Laguna Lagartos Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia Saved the day – avoided a wader-free trip! One on Pacific coast at Bosque del Cabo Feral Pigeon Columba livia Scattered in towns Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata Savegre – like a wood pigeon Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis Caribbean lowlands Red-billed Pigeon Columba flavirostris Common in Central Valley, Bosque de Paz Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Common and widespread in lowlands

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White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Lowlands e.g. Laguna Lagartos Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana One at Bosque del Cabo Scarlet Macaw Ara macao Up to 15 a day at Laguna Lagartos, common too at Bosque del Cabo, magnificent bird Orange-chinned Brotogeris jugularis Seen well at Laguna Lagartos Parakeet Brown-hooded Parrot Pionopsitta haematotis Laguna Lagartos where they were frequent around the lodge and feeders White-crowned Pionus senilis Two posing perfectly on a palm as we left Laguna Parrot Lagartos Sulphur-winged Pyrrhura hoffmanni A large flock at Savegre Parakeet Red-lored Parrot Amazona autumnalis Plenty at Laguna Lagartos, also Bosque del Cabo Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common in open country in S Pacific Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Common in lowlands of northern CR Black-and-white Owl Strix nigrolineata One at Laguna Lagartos calling loudly during the night and seen well Short-tailed Lurocalis semitorquatus Dawn and dusk Laguna Lagartos Nighthawk Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Frequent in Caribbean lowlands Costa Rican Swift Probably these in Osa area White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris A few of these large swifts at Laguna Lagartos Green Hermit Phaethornis guy One near Braulio Carillio Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis superciliosus Quite common at Bosque del Cabo, also Bosque de Paz Little Hermit Phaethornis longuemareus Scarce at Bosque del Cabo Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus Common at Savegre, also Bosque de Paz Snowcap 50 Microchera albocoronata A little stunner, purple with a white cap, near Braulio Carillio Crowned Thalurania colombica Lovely species locally common at Bosque del Cabo Woodnymph Fiery-throated Panterpe insignis Wonderful species seen on Cerro de la Muerte Hummingbird Blue-throated Hylocharis eliciae Possibles at Bosque del Cabo Goldentail Rufous-tailed Amazilia tzacatl Common and widespread Hummingbird Stripe-tailed Eupherusa eximia Villablanca, Savegre Hummingbird Black-bellied Eupherusa nigriventris One at Bosque de Paz Hummingbird Purple-throated Lampornis calolaema Bosque de Paz Mountain-Gem White-throated Lampornis castaneoventris Savegre, male has blue-green head and white throat Mountain-Gem Green-crowned Heliodoxa jacula Bosque de Paz, large green, white spot behind the eye, Brilliant small purple throat patch Magnificent Eugenes fulgens Another large green hummer purple crown, blue Hummingbird throat, Bosque de Paz, Savegre Purple-crowned Heliothryx barroti One at Laguna Lagartos also Bosque del Cabo a lovely Fairy species

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Green-fronted Doryfera ludovicae Bosque de Paz, one seen perched on a midstream Lancebill boulder, fantastic species Violet-headed Klais guimeti A female near Braulio Carillio Hummingbird White-crested Lophornis adorabilis One at Bosque del Cabo Coquette Scintillant Selasphorus scintilla Bosque de Paz Hummingbird Volcano Selasphorus flammula Little beauty with violet purple throat, Savegre Hummingbird Resplendent Quetzal Pharomachrus mocinno One of the world’s great birds, seen well at Savegre Black-throated Trogon rufus Bosque del Cabo Trogon Violaceous Trogon Trogon violaceus Bosque del Cabo Orange-bellied Trogon aurantiiventris A male seen very well at Savegre Trogon Slaty-tailed Trogon Trogon massena Two at Bosque del Cabo Blue-crowned Eumomota superciliosa The best motmot, seen well in Honduras and at La Motmot Ensenada Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata Laguna Lagartos Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Near Laguna Lagartos Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus Superb views at Laguna Lagartos feeding on the bananas Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus Another handsome banana regular at Laguna Lagartos Chestnut-mandibled Ramphastos swainsonii Yellow and brown billed banana raider at Laguna Toucan Lagartos, also Bosque del Cabo Black-cheeked Melanerpes pucherani Laguna Lagartos Woodpecker Golden-naped Melanerpes chrysauchen Bosque del Cabo Woodpecker Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus Savegre Hairy Woodpecker Picoides villosus Two at Bosque de Paz Smoky-brown Veniliornis fumigatus Seen well at Bosque de Paz Woodpecker Lineated Dryocopus lineatus Classic woody, Laguna Lagartos and Bosque del Cabo Woodpecker Pale-billed Campephilus An equally classic woody, Laguna Lagartos and Woodpecker guatemalensis Bosque del Cabo again Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Mixed flocks at Bosque del Cabo Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens One at Bosque de Paz Ruddy Treerunner Margarornis rubiginosus Bosque de Paz Wedge-billed Glyphorhynchus spirurus Quite common at Bosque del Cabo Woodcreeper Streak-headed Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Bosque del Cabo Woodcreeper Spot-crowned Lepidocolaptes affinis Savegre Woodcreeper Black-striped Xiphorhynchus Handsome species Bosque del Cabo Woodcreeper lachrymosus Cocoa Woodcreeper Heard at Bosque del Cabo

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Black-hooded Thamnophilus bridgesi Bosque del Cabo and Laguna Lagartos frequently Antshrike heard too Chestnut-backed Myrmeciza exsul Widespread e.g. Laguna Lagartos, common at Bosque Antbird del Cabo Checker-throated Mymotherula fulviventris Two at Bosque del Cabo Antwren Silvery-fronted Scytalopus argentifrons Heard at Bosque de Paz Tapaculo Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus Bosque del Cabo cinnamomeus Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata Bosque del Cabo Blue-crowned Pipra coronata Bosque del Cabo Manakin Red-capped Manakin Pipra mentalis Bosque del Cabo, a little beauty 100 Ochre-bellied Mionectes oleagineus Bosque del Cabo Flycatcher White-throated Platyrinchus mystaceus Bosque de Paz, a parent feeding a youngster Spadebill Western Wood- Contopus sordidulus Laguna Lagartos, a bland flycatcher! Pewee Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Bosque del Cabo Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Widespread, characteristic and vocal species of CR Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus Bosque del Cabo Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Very common and widespread Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Bosque de Paz Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Frequent in lowlands Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea Scattered, near Laguna Lagartos, Osa Cliff Swallow Hirundo pyrrhonota On migration in lowlands Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Occasional in lowlands Rufous-naped Wren Camplyorhynchus Heard in San Jose rufinucha Riverside Wren Thryothorus semibadius Heard at Bosque del Cabo Ochraceous Wren Troglodytes ochraceus A noisy group seen well at Bosque de Paz House Wren Troglodytes aedon Widespread Gray-breasted Wood- Henicorhina leucophrys Seen well at Savegre, heard often at Bosque de Paz Wren Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea One at Bosque del Cabo Ruddy-capped Cathartus frantzii Savegre where common Nightingale Thrush Sooty Robin Turdus nigrescens Cerro de la Muerte and Savegre Clay-colored Robin Turdus grayi Common and widespread, national bird of Costa Rica Long-tailed Silky Phainoptila caudatus A stunner two seen very close at Savegre Flycatcher Yellow-throated Vireo flavifrons Common at Bosque del Cabo Vireo Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys Bosque de Paz Yellow-winged Vireo Vireo carmioli Savegre Tawny-crowned Hylophilus ochraceiceps Bosque del Cabo Greenlet Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decuratus Bosque del Cabo

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Tennessee Warbler Vermivora peregrina Common at Savegre, Bosque del Cabo, etc Chestnut-sided Dendroica pensylvanica Possible at Bosque de Paz Warbler Flame-throated Parula gutturalis Seen well at Bosque de Paz Warbler Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi Bosque de Paz Yellow-rumped Dendroica coronata Braulio Carillio Warbler Black-and-white Mniotilta varia Bosque del Cabo Warbler Slate-throated Myioborus miniatus Villablanca Redstart Three-striped Basileuterus tristiratus Bosque de Paz Warbler Northern Seiurus noveboracensis Bosque de Paz and Savegre Waterthrush Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Bosque del Scattered e.g. Bosque del Cabo Caboti Red-legged Cyanerpes cyaneus Non-breeding plumage only at Laguna Lagartos Honeycreeper Shining Cyanerpes lucidus Laguna Lagartos, seen superbly at the feeders, also Honeycreeper Bosque del Cabo Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Laguna Lagartos and Bosque del Cabo Olive-backed Euphonia gouldii Laguna Lagartos Euphonia Blue-Gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Common and widespread Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Widespread Silver-throated Tangara icterocephala Lovely species seen at Savegre 2/14 Tanager Golden-hooded Tangara larvata A beauty, seen at Laguna Lagartos and at Bosque del Tanager Cabo Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola Bosque del Cabo Common Bush- Chlorospingus Common at Bosque de Paz Tanager ophthalmicus Sooty-capped Bush- Chlorospingus pileatus Savegre Tanager White-throated Lanio leucothorax Bosque del Cabo Shrike-tanager Gray-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata Occasional at Bosque del Cabo 150 White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Bosque del Cabo Flame-coloured Piranga bidentata A beauty, Savegre Tanager Passerini’s Tanager Ramphocelus passerinii Laguna Lagartos Cherries Tanager Ramphocelus Bosque del Cabo Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus Laguna Lagartos Slate-coloured Pitylus grossus Laguna Lagartos Grosbeak Variable Seedeater Sporophila aurita Pastureland, grassy areas e.g. Laguna Lagartos all black, Pacific coast black and white

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Yellow-faced Tiaras olivacea Pastureland Grassquit Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Pastureland Slaty Flowerpiercer Diglossa plumbea Savegre Large-footed Finch Pezopetes capitallis Cerro de la Muerte and Savegre, curious feeding action, sweeping leaves, etc behind it with both feet simultaneously and vaulting over at the same time! Yellow-thighed Finch Pselliophorus tibialis Savegre Chestnut-capped Atlapetes brunneinucha Bosque de Paz, common around the feeders Brush-Finch Rufous-collared Zonotricha capensis Bosque de Paz and Savegre Sparrow Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus Very common and widespread in open areas and towns in Costa Rica Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis Laguna Lagartos

Montezuma Psarocolius montezuma Laguna Lagartos Oropendula Scarlet-rumped Cacicus uropygialis Bosque del Cabo Cacique House Sparrow Passer domesticus Near Laguna Lagartos

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Systematic List Number 2 Mammals

Common Opossum Didelphis marsupialis One at Bosque del Cabo Grey Four-eyed Philander opossum One sauntered across through the breakfast Opossum area

Tent-making Bat Uroderma bilobatum Many ‘tents’ at Braulio Carillio by no occupants!

White-throated Capuchin Cebus capuchinus Common at Bosque del Cabo Mantled Howler Alouatta palliata Seen and heard very well at Bosque del Cabo Central American Spider Ateles geoffroyi Very common at Bosque del Cabo Monkey Central American Saimiri oerstedii Two troops seen at Bosque del Cabo Squirrel Monkey

Red-tailed Squirrel Sciurus granatensis Common at Bosque del Cabo Central American Dwarf Microsciurus alfari Bosque del Cabo Squirrel Deppe’s Squirrel Sciurus deppei One at Savegre

Central American Agouti Dasyprocta punctata Widespread and common, seen well almost everywhere we stayed Paca Agouti paca One at Bosque de Paz

Brazilian Rabbit Sylvilagus brasiliensis Near Savegre

White-nosed Coati Nasua narica Widespread and seen well almost everywhere we stayed Collared Peccary Tayassu tajacu Heard at Bosque del Cabo

Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae Two seen from the cabins at Bosque del Cabo

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Systematic List Number 3 Reptiles

White-lipped Mud Turtle Kinosternon leucostomum One at Laguna Lagartos House Gecko Hemidatylus frenatus Widespread in buildings, an Asian import Common Basilisk Basiliscus basiliscus Sleek and swift lizard capable of sprinting across water. Bosque del Cabo Green Basilisk Basiliscus plumifrons Seen well at Laguna Lagartos Green Iguana Iguana iguana Magnificent lizard with both bright green juveniles and larger older specimens at Laguna Lagartos Slender Anole Norops limifrons Scattered, the genus as a whole are difficult and individuals need to be carefully examined Golfo Dulce Anole Norops polylepis Common at Bosque del Cabo, orange dewlap Canopy Lizard A rarely seen species, but one photographed at Bosque del Cabo Litter Skink Sphenomorphus cherrei Small critter with red tail Bosque del Cabo Central American Whip- Ameiva festiva Widespread, but most notable at Bosque del tailed Lizard Cabo Four-lined Whip-tailed Easily overlooked infavour of festiva, but Lizard common along coast at Bosque del Cabo Green Spiny Lizard A female sunning herself on high (3500m) paramo on Cerro de la Muerte Boa Constrictor Boa constrictor A large one at Bosque del Cabo Northern Cat-eyed Snake Common around ponds at Bosque del Cabo Barred Forest Racer One at Bosque del Cabo Hog-nosed Pit Viper One coiled on the path at Laguna Lagartos Spectacled Caiman Caiman crocodilus Seen very well at Laguna Lagartos

Systematic List Number 4 Amphibians

Giant Toad Bufo marinus The infamous Cane Toad, here in its’ native habitat but no less rare or huge, Laguna Lagartos and Bosque del Cabo Green-and-black Poison Dendrobates auratus What a beauty! Laguna Lagartos and Bosque Frog del Cabo Strawberry Poison Frog Dendrobates pumilio Gorgeous little red frog common at Laguna Lagartos Red-eyed Leaf Frog Agalychnis callidryas The quintessential Costa Rican frog seen with ease at close quarters in the frog pond at Bosque del Cabo Red-eyed Parachuting Agalychnis spurellii One at large pool at Bosque del Cabo Leaf Frog Hourglass Tree Frog Hyla ebraccata Pretty little frog at Bosque del Cabo variable markings Rain Frogs Eleutherodactylus spp Various species of this difficult genus seen. Central American Leptodactylus pentadactylus Truly huge frog (four times the bulk of a giant Bullfrog toad!) with red eyeshine. Bosque del Cabo

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Systematic List Number 5 Butterflies

Papilionidae Parides arcas? Cattleheart A species of Cattleheart was seen at Laguna Lagartos, but not identified to species Papilio thoas Phoas Swallowtail Bosque del Cabo

Pieridae Eurema xanthochlora Laguna Lagartos Phoebis argante Laguna Lagartos, large orange-yellow species Phoebis sennae Cloudless Sulphur Widespread Nymphalinae Historis odius Orion Cecropian Laguna Lagartos feeding on bananas Hamadryas feronia Variable Cracker Laguna Lagartos Hamadryas amphinome Red Cracker Laguna Lagartos Marpesia merops Daggerwing Laguna Lagartos fatima Banded Peacock Abundant and widespread Anartia jatrophae White Peacock Laguna Lagartos Hypanartia arcaei Cerro de la Muerte (trapped in the café) Adelpha cytherea Laguna Lagartos

Heliconiinae Dryadula phaetusa Banded Orange Handsome orange and black striped species Heliconian at Laguna Lagartos Dryas iulia ssp.moderata Julia Heliconian Widespread, orange sickle-shaped wings Heliconius doris Dot-bordered Heliconian Tiskita, black, blue and cream, Laguna Lagartos Heliconius ismenius Tiger Heliconian Common at Bosque del Cabo ssp.clarescens Heliconius hecale ssp.zuleika Heart-spotted Heliconian Bosque del Cabo

Heliconius pachinus Black and cream banded species Bosque del Cabo Heliconius erato ssp.petiverana Erato Heliconian Smallish black with red banded forewing and cream banded hindwing, Bosque del Cabo Heliconius clysonymus Widespread black, red and cream Bosque del Cabo Philaethria dido Green Heliconian A beauty. Bosque del Cabo

Brassolinae Caligo atreus Giant Owl Butterfly Bosque del Cabo Caligo eurilochus Bosque del Cabo

Morphinae Morpho amathonte Blue Morpho Common at Bosque del Cabo, magnificent species, the male lacks a black margin, females a broad brown margin

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Morpho peleides Common Morpho Widespread, the both sexes have a dark blackish margin. Laguna Lagartos Morpho granadensis Rare species, photographed well at Laguna Lagartos. Stunning underside markings Antirrhea miltiades One in the understorey at Laguna Lagartos, prominent white band on underwing

Satyrinae Cissia spp Various little brown satyrids were seen but not identified Pierella luna Quiet Diaph Well camouflaged species that flies close to forest floor. Bosque del Cabo Pierella helvina Similar to above but has reddish area on hind wing Bosque del Cabo Paraptychia ocirrhoe White Satyr Quite common white and brown striped understorey species, Bosque del Cabo

Lycaenidae Arawacus togarna Pretty striped species with typical false head markings on rear wing that wiggle constantly. Bosque del Cabo Theritas theocritus Stunning deep metallic blue, Bosque del Cabo

Riodinidae Mesosemia grandis One seen ‘flashing blue’ in understorey at Bosque de Paz Rhetus periander Stunning blue species with red spots on hind wing, Laguna Lagartos

Many species of unidentified skippers were Hesperiidae seen, a challenging group! Urbanus procne A brown long tailed skipper Urbanus dorantes Laguna Lagartos Urbanus pronus Bosque de Paz, long-tailed blue skipper Astraptes fulgerator Dazzling metallic blue species on heliconia. Bosque del Cabo

Other invertebrates Copaxa troetschi Large reddish leaf moth at Bosque de Paz Black Witch Moth Widespread in various shades of grey to near white Hooded Mantis Laguna Lagartos and Bosque del Cabo Longhorn Beetles Impressive species seen at Laguna Lagartos and Bosque del Cabo Tarantula Various species Orb-web Spider Various species some with superb web designs Golden Orb-web Spider Laguna Lagartos

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