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Home , Arisaig Provincial Park, Blomidon Provincial Park, Joggins, Parliament Hill

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CANADA’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 32 ROAD TRIPS

Regis St Louis Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Prado, Brendan Sainsbury, Phillip Tang SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo

Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP

Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to ...... 7 Canada Highlights...... 10 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu If You Like...... 20 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Need to Know...... 22 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly City Guide...... 24 s Swimming a Air- Canada by Region...... 28 Conditioning Pool Canada Classic Trips...... 30 MAP LEGEND

Routes Trips Trip Route Trip Numbers Trip Detour Linked Trip Trip Stop ON THE ROAD Walk Route Tollway Walking tour Freeway Primary Trip Detour Secondary ...... 33 Tertiary Population Lane Capital (National) Vancouver & the Unsealed Road Capital 1 Fraser Valley...... 2 Days 37 Plaza/Mall (State/Province) Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Sea to Sky Pedestrian 2 Highway...... 1–2 Days 45 Overpass Areas Walk Track/Path Beach A Strait Hop...... 2–3 Days 55 Cemetery 3 Boundaries (Christian) International Cemetery (Other) State/Province Park Southern Vancouver Cliff Forest 4 Island Tour...... 4–5 Days 65 Reservation Hydrography Urban Area River/Creek Sportsground Vancouver Island’s Swamp/Mangrove 5 Remote North...... 2–3 Days 73 Canal Transport Water Airport Dry/Salt/ Cable Car/ Okanagan Valley Intermittent Lake Funicular 6 Wine Tour...... 2 Days 81 Glacier Metro/Muni station Parking Haida Gwaii Route Markers Subway station 7 Adventure...... 2 Days 91 Trans-Canada Hwy Train/Railway Provincial/ Tram Territorial Hwy US National Hwy US Interstate Hwy Note: Not all symbols 2 displayed above appear on US State Hwy the maps in this book CONTENTS

Circling the North from 8 Rockies...... 3 Days 99 d Saskatoon...... 3–4 Days 151

Around the Klondike 9 Kootenays...... 5–6 Days 107 e Highway...... 4–5 Days 159

Dempster THE PRAIRIE f Highway...... 6–7 Days 167 PROVINCES & THE NORTH...... 119 ...... 179 Dinosaurs, Hoodoos & Lake Superior a the Wild West...... 2–3 Days 123 g Coastline...... 7 Days 183

Icefields People & b Parkway...... 2 Days 133 h Culture Loop...... 4–5 Days 191

Explore Southern The Niagara c .... 3–4 Days 143 i Peninsula...... 3 Days 201

The Prairie Provinces & the North British p Columbia Québec The Atlantic p p Region Ontario p p

3 Contents cont. j The Kawarthas...... 5 Days 213 THE ATLANTIC REGION...... 307 k Nature Loop...... 5–7 Days 219 Central s ...... 10 Days 311 Thousand Island l Parkway...... 7 Days 229 South Shore t Circular...... 10 Days 319 QUÉBEC...... 241 The Cabot u Trail...... 2–3 Days 329 Up to the m Laurentians...... 2 Days 245 Two Islands, Three v Provinces...... 8 Days 339 Eastern n Townships...... 1 Day 255 Icebergs, Vikings w & Whales...... 5 Days 349 Montréal to o Québec City...... 1 Day 265

Around, Over & p In the St ROAD TRIP Lawrence River...... 3 Days 273 ESSENTIALS The Saguenay Fjord q & Lac St Jean...... 3–4 Days 283 Canada Driving Guide ...... 361 Circling the r Gaspé Canada Travel Guide...... 366 Peninsula ...... 7–8 Days 293 Index...... 376

Nova Scotia Fishing boats in Peggy’s Cove (p321) JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

4 5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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WRITER THANKS into shape, and to my fellow Banff and Jasper’s trails: Chloe, writers for making this book Sophie, Wes and Ted, that means RAY BARTLETT what it is. Heartfelt thanks you! Couldn’t have asked for a Thanks first and foremost, to to Rosie Hillier for putting up more delightful research crew. Buck, for the chance to work on with my wanderlust, and to this, and to each of the editors Susie Berry for long-distance SHAWN DUTHIE who will peek at it afterwards, correspondence. Thanks also It was great to re-connect with and to the great team of co- to Sam White, Justin Foulkes, my home province and my authors. Thanks as well to Deborah Gill, Anna Louis deepest thanks to Vivek, Danny my family, friends, and to the and many others for useful and Stefan for allowing me to incredible collage of folks I met Canadian tips and much-needed sleep on your couch, driving too along the way: Kristina, Vera, hospitality. many kilometres to count and Rubí, Miro, Allan & Dan, Cat and just making the research even Greg, Louise and Melva, Alice H, GREGOR CLARK more fun than usual. Of course, Molly and Spencer (congrats!), Heartfelt thanks to all of the my biggest thank you is to my Morgan, William Flenders, Josh kind Albertans and fellow wife and son who put up with all W, Char, the “Lindsays,” Riya, travelers who shared their love my traveling! and many more. and knowledge of Banff and Jasper – especially Karina Birch, STEVE FALLON OLIVER BERRY Kate Williams, Ken Wood, Paul Un très grand merci to the folk Big thanks to Ben Buckner Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, Ed and who offered assistance, ideas for the chance to return to Vanessa, Shauna and Lindsay. and/or hospitality along the way, write about Canada, to the LP Thanks also to the family and including Gabriel d’Anjou Drouin editors for whipping my work friends who helped me explore and Maxime Aubin in Québec

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Ben Buckner Dankel, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Senior Product Editors Martine Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon, Canada’s Best Trips guidebook Power, Saralinda Turner, Grace Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, was curated by Regis St Louis. Dobell Christopher Pitts, Sarah It was researched and written Jenna Myers Product Editor Reid, Tamara Sheward, Simon by Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Regional Senior Cartographer Williamson Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie, Corey Hutchison Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Book Designer Gwen Cotter Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, Thanks to Catherine Naghten John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Prado, Brendan Sainsbury and James Bainbridge, Judith Phillip Tang. This guidebook was Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Joel produced by the following: Cotterell, Lucy Cowie, Melanie

374 City; Vicky Drolet in Malbaie; wild little Isaac, and my favorite passers-by who helped me, Sylvie Senécal & Pierre Lachance traveling companions: Rachel, unwittingly or otherwise, during in Ville de Mont-Tremblant; and who can layer for anything, and my research trip. Special thanks Carolyne Cyr and Pierre-André Sanda, who endures the road to my wife Liz, my son Kieran Guichoud in Ste-Adèle. Et à mon better than her daddy. and my mother-in-law Ammy for cher ‘pays d’hiver’ qui a combattu their company (and patience) on le bon combat et gagné! (And to JOHN LEE the road. my beloved `land of winter’ that Heartfelt thanks to Maggie fought the good fight and won!) for joining me at all those PHILLIP TANG As always, my share is dedicated restaurants and for keeping me Thank you to Ben Buckner and to my now spouse and almost calm during the brain-throbbing the DEs for your expertise and   Quebecer, Michael Rothschild. final write-up phase of this legacy. Muchas gracias a Lalo project. Thanks also to Max, (José Eduardo García Sánchez) CAROLYN HELLER our crazy-whiskered ginger por tu apoyo y consejo sobre Many thanks to all the friends cat, for sticking by my desk and estilo y mucho más desde lejos. and colleagues who shared their also reminding me to chase him Thank you to Felix, Nick Zhang Québec tips, especially Kim around the house every once in a and all the other Montréalers Huard-Carette and Emily Dunn. while. Cheers also to my brother who offered guidance; and to Special thanks to Ben Buckner Michael for visiting from England Manuelle González Goretti for for signing me onto the Canada and checking out some local advice on the Eastern Townships team, to Suzie Loiselle and breweries with me: you really and adventures in the Village. Étienne Fiola for all the advice know how to go the extra mile. and the crêpes, and to Michaela Albert, ace travel buddy, snow CRAIG MCLACHLAN ACKNOWLEDGE- hiker, and champion lobster A hearty thanks to all those MENTS eater. who helped out on the road, but Climate map data adapted most of all, to my exceptionally from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & ANNA KAMINSKI beautiful wife, Yuriko, who McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Huge thanks to Ben for maintained semi-control of my World Map of the Köppen-Geiger entrusting me with , craft-beer intake. Climate Classification’,Hydrology NWT and , and to and Earth System Sciences, 11, everyone who’s helped me along LIZA PRADO 1633–44. the way. In particular: Theresa A shout out to the extraordinary and the merry crew of medics, LP team: Ben Buckner, the Front cover photographs plus Stephen, Alan and Brian in production crew, my co-authors (clockwise from top): Iqaluit, Markus in Pangnirtung, – I’m so proud to be able to work Icefields Parkway, and Joamie, Pootoogook and with you. Mil gracias to Mom and British Columbia; Chantal de Silaqqi in Cape Dorset, Don and Dad for your boundless support, Bruijne/Shutterstock ©; Totem Christine in Fort Smith, Sherry love, and curiosity about places Pole, Stanley Park, British in Valleyview, Jacob and Herb so close to home. Big thanks Columbia; Apexphotos/Getty in Yellowknife, John and Gina to Eva and Leo for waiting so Images ©; Vintage car, Québec; in Fort Providence, Lois in Fort patiently for ‘Fun…With Mom.’ Design Pics Inc/Alamy Stock Simpson, Wayne at Checkpoint, And Gary, my love, there is Photo © and Minerva in Inuvik. absolutely no way I could do my Back cover photograph: job without you. Your support, ADAM KARLIN Okanagan Lake, Kelowna, your understanding, your British Columbia; Stan Jones/ Big thanks: Ben Buckner, for cheerleading. Thank you, always. Shutterstock © getting me on this project, Anna Kaminski, my commiserator BRENDAN SAINSBURY in chief, my fellow co-authors, Many thanks to all the skilled Carolyn and Adam in St John’s, bus drivers, helpful tourist Gordon in Bonavista, the information staff, generous hotel construction crews of the New owners, expert burger flippers, Wes Valley, Mom and Dad, my unobtrusive bears and numerous

375 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Bishop’s University 262 World A Blackfoot Crossing Historical Heritage Site 104 Abbaye St-Benoît-du-Lac 259 Park 126-7 business hours 372 accessible travel 367 Blue Mountain 220-1, 226 Butterfly Conservatory 204 accommodations 23, 367-8 boat travel 366-7 activities, see individual Boldt Castle 231 C Bonanza Creek actvities cable cars 276 Discovery Site 164 Advocate Harbour 313-14, 317 Sea to Sky Gondola 48 Bonaventure 296 air travel 366 Cabot Trail, the 17, 329-36 Bonavista 355, 357 Alert Bay 78, 79 Calgary 174-5 border crossings 363 Algonquin Provincial Park Campbell River Museum 77 216, 217 Botanical Beach 70 Canada Place 115 Alice Lake 48-9 Bow Lake 135, 141 Canal de Lachine 302 animals 126 Brackendale 48 canoeing 185, 323 323-4, 327 Brandywine Falls Canso 314 Anne of Green Gables 344 Provincial Park 51-2 Brantford 197 Cap Tourmente National Antigonish 315, 317 Wildlife Area 277, 279 breweries apps 363 325 Battery Park Beerbar 312 Aquatarium 232 Cape George 315 Brothers Brewing Co 193 aquatic adventures 21 Cape Smokey 332 Craft Beer Corner 345 Arctic Circle 170-1 Capilano Suspension Bridge 39 Dildo Brewing Company 352 area codes 373 car hire 22 arts 68, 194, 209 Garrison Brewing Company 358 car insurance 361 Athabasca Falls 140 Lake of the Woods Brewing car travel, see driving Athabasca Glacier 137 Company 188 Carcross 160-2 Atlas Coal Mine 126 Sleeping Giant Brewing Carleton 296, 301 ATMs 372 Co 188 Carmacks 163, 165 Avon River 194 Stone City Ales 231 Carmelis Goat Cheese Tatamagouche Brewing Artisan 87 B Co 314 Cassis Monna & Filles 275 Brier Island 324, 327 Baddeck 336, 337 Cathedral Grove 75 Brigus 352, 357 Baie St Paul 280, 281 Cavendish 344, 347 Britannia Beach 47, 53 Banff National Park 101-2, 105 cell phones 23, 373 Brockville 232, 235 Bay St Lawrence 332-3 Charlevoix 18 Brohm Lake 49 BC Forest Discovery Centre 59 Charlottetown 345, 347 Bromont 257, 263 beaches 19, 75 cheese 69, 87 Bruce Peninsula National Park Berthierville 266 Chemainus 59-60, 62-3 221-2, 226 Big Tancook Island 321 Chester 321-2

376 Chéticamp 333, 335, 337 driving 13, 361-5, 366 Fort George 205 Chibougamau region 288 fuel 22, 49, 186, 365 331 Chinatown (Vancouver) 114 road rules 60, 364-5 Grassy Island Fort 314 Chinatown (Victoria) 116 tips 170, 362 314 churches & cathedrals Drumheller 125, 131 fuel 22, 49, 186, 365 Basilica of Our Lady Duck Lake Interpretive Immaculate 193 Center 155 G Église de Bonaventure 296 Dungeon Park 355 Gabriola Island 61 Église St-Jean 275 Gananoque 231-2, 235 Her Majesty’s Chapel of the gas 22, 49, 186, 365 E INDEX Mohawks 197 Eagle Plains 170 Gaspé 297-8, 301 Our Lady of the Assumption

Gastown 114 Co-Cathedral 147 East Point 342-3, 346 C-H gay travelers 371 St Dunstan’s Basilica 345 Eastend 145-6, 149 Géopark de Percé 297 Ursulines Chapel 304 electricity 370 Georgetown 342, 346 Cirque de Soleil 269 Elliston 353 Gibsons 60-1 climate 22 Emerald Lake 104 Golden 104, 105, 108-9, 113 CN Tower 236 emergencies 22 Golden Spruce, the 94 Coaticook 259 Engineer Creek Campground 168-9 gold-panning 41 Columbia Icefield Discovery Goldstream Provincial Park 57-8 Centre 137, 139, 141 Englishtown 331 Grand Pré 325 Confederation Bridge 345 Grasslands National Park 148 Confederation Trail, the 344 F Gravelbourg 147-8 Coombs 75-6 Far North 288 Green Gables Heritage costs 23 Fathom Five National Marine Place 344 Cowboy Trail, the 130, 131 Park 223 Greenwich Dunes 343, 346-7 Cowichan Bay 58-9, 62 ferries 342 Grouse Mountain 40 Cranbrook 110, 113 festivals 84, 96, 208 Guelph 192-3, 198 credit cards 372 Field 103-4, 105 Gwaii Haanas National Park Cumberland 76-7, 79 Reserve 92 Cupids 352, 357 communities 78, 224 currency 22 culture 288 H cycling 322 dance 78 Cypress Hills Interprovincial Eskasoni 331 Haida Gwaii 12 Park 145, 149 Haida, the 96 Haliburton Forest 215 history 197 Haliburton Highlands 215-16, 217 literature 197 D Halifax 320-1, 326, 340, 358-9 Mi’kmaq 331 dangers, see safety Hamilton 209 Dartmouth 312-13, 317 Point Provincial Nature Reserve 225 Harrison Hot Springs 42, 43 Dawson City 12, 164, 165 Flowerpot Island 223 Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump Dempster Highway 167-72 World Heritage Site 130 food 20, 23, 370-1 Dildo 352 highlights 10-19 Forillon National Park 298 127, 131 hiking 21 Fort Langley 40-1, 43 dinosaurs 127, 147, 314 historic sites Fort McPherson 171-2, 173 disabilities, travelers with 367 Alexander Graham Bell Fort Steele Heritage Town 110 discount cards 369 National Historic Site 336 Fort Whoop-Up 130 diving 223 Chiefswood National Historic forts Dolbeau-Mistassini 288 Site 197 323 Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Citadel Hill National Historic Chinese Garden 114 Fort Calgary 174 Site 359

377 Cupids Cove Plantation Lucy Maud Montgomery’s Provincial Historic K Cavendish Homestead 344 Site 352 Provincial Lunenburg 322, 326 Fort Henry National Park 188 Lynn Canyon Park 40 Historic Site 231 Kawartha Highlands Lynn Canyon Park Ecology Fort Langley National Provincial Park 214-15 Centre 40 Historic Site 40 Kawarthas, the 213-16 Fort Walsh National kayaking 231, 315, 323, 324 Historic Site 146 M Keji Seaside Adjunct 324 Fortifications of Québec Magog 259, 261, 263 322-3,

INDEX National Historic Site 304 Maison Drouin 275 326-7 Kilby Historic Site 42 Maitland 313, 317 Kelowna 83-4, 88-9

H-M Pointe-au-Père National Malagash Peninsula 314 Kenora 188 Historic Site 299 Manitou Beach 154 Kicking Horse Pass 103 SS Klondike National Manitoulin Island 224 Killarney Provinical Park 185-6, Historic Site 162 Maple Creek 144-5, 149 189 Uncle Tom’s Cabin Historic maple syrup 250 Site 196-7 Kimberley 109-10 maps 363 history 21 Kingston 230-1, 235 Marble Canyon 101 Hockey Hall of Fame 236-7 Klondike Highway 159-64 Margaree Fish Hatchery 336 holidays 373 Knowlton 259 Margaree Valley 335-6 Hoodoo Trail 125 Kootenay Lake 110-11 markets Hope 42 Artisan Market 356 Hopewell Rocks 345 L Bromont Flea Market 257 Horseshoe Bay 46 La Malbaie 280, 281 ByWard Market 238 Horseshoe Canyon 125 Lac Brome 258-9 Coombs Old Country Lac St-François 258 hot springs 112 Market 75-6 Lake Cowichan 69-70 Hamilton’s Farmers Lake Louise 10-11, 102, 105, Market 209 I 135, 141 Marché Atwater 302 ice skating 220 Lake Superior Provincial Park Saturday Market 70 Icefields Parkway 14-15, 133-40 186-7, 189 St Jacobs Farmers Market 193 Île Bonaventure 297 Langley Farmland 41-2 St Lawrence Market 237 Île d’Orléans’ North Coast languages 22 Sunday Antique Market 237 275, 281 L’Anse St Jean 290 Val-David Summer Île d’Orléans’ South Coast La Ronge 156, 157 275-6, 281 Market 248 Laurentians, the 245-51 Indian Head Cove 222 Mashteuiatsh 287-8 Lawrencetown Beach 316 Ingonish 332, 337 Masset 95, 97 lesbian travelers 371 insurance 361 Mayne Island 68, 71 Lethbridge 129-30, 131 internet access 23, 371 measures 369 LGBTIQ+ travelers 371 internet resoures 23, 25, 26, Memory Lane Heritage lighthouses 27, 365 Village 316 Cape Bear Lighthouse 342 Inuvik 172, 173 Merridale Estate Cidery 58 Cape d’Or Lighthouse 314 Mi’kmaq culture 331 Cape George Point Mission Hill Family Estate 83, 88 J Lighthouse 315 mobile phones 23, 373 Jasper 140, 141 East Point Lighthouse 342 money 22, 23, 372 Jeddore Oyster Ponds 316 Peggy’s Cove Montague 342 Joggins Cliffs 314 Lighthouse 321 Montgomery, Lucy Maud 344 Point Prim Lighthouse 345 Juan de Fuca Provincial Park 70 Montréal 26, 302-3 London 195-6, 199 Mont-Ste-Anne 277

378 Mont-Tremblant Village 251 MacBride Museum of Ursulines Museum 304 Moraine Lake 102 History 162 Vancouver Art Gallery 114-15 Morrisburg 234 Maple Syrup Museum 193 Waterfront Gallery 68 motorcycles, see driving Margaree Salmon music 362 Mt Edith Cavell 140 Museum 336 Mt Garibaldi 51 Maritime Museum of the Atlantic 358 N Mt McKay 188 Mennonite Heritage Nakusp 112 museums & galleries Museum 154 national & provincial parks Art Gallery of Greater Musée Acadien du Alice Lake Provincial Park 49 Victoria 57 Québec 296 315 INDEX Art Gallery of Guelph 192-3 Musée Amérindien de Basin Head Provincial Art Gallery of Hamilton 209

Mashteuiatsh 287 Park 343 M-N Art Gallery of Nova Scotia Musée d’Art Contemporain 325 358-9 de Baie St Paul 280 Cabots Landing Provincial Audain Art Museum 52 Musée d’Art Contemporain Park 332 BiIl Reid Gallery of Northwest des Laurentides 247 Caribou-Munroes Island Coast Art 115 Musée de Charlevoix 280 Provincial Park 342 Britannia Mine Museum 47 Musée de l’Amérique Kakabeka Falls Provincial Canada War Museum 239 Francophone 305 Park 188 Canadian Canoe Museum 214 Musée du Chocolat du Kejimkujik National Park Canadian Museum of Chocolat de la Confiserie 322-3 Immigration 358 Bromont 257 Killarney Provinical Centre d’Art Marcel Musée Québécois de Culture Park 185-6 Gagnon 295 Populaire 270 100 Cité de l’Énergie 269 Museum at Campbell Lac La Ronge Provincial Crystal Cabin 93 River 77 Park 156 Cumberland Museum 77 Museum London 195 Lake Superior Provincial Deep South Pioneer Musquodoboit Harbour Park 186-7 Museum 148 Railway Museum 316 Naikoon Provincial Park 96 Dixon Entrance Maritime Niagara Falls History Parc de la Gorge de Museum 95 Museum 203 Coaticook 259 Eagle Aerie Gallery 75 Okanagan Wine and Orchard Parc d’Environnement East Coulee School Museum 84 Naturel 258 Museum 126 Parisian Laundry Gallery 303 Parc National de Eastend Historical Pender Islands Museum 68 Frontenac 258 Museum 146 Port Clements Museum 94 Parc National de la Elmira Railway Museum 342 Powell River Museum 61 Gaspésie 299 Empress of Ireland Power Plant Contemporary Parc National de la Museum 299-300 Art Gallery 236 Mauricie 268 Esker Foundation Contempo- Prince Albert Historical Parc National de la Pointe- rary Art Gallery 174-5 Museum 155 Taillon 289 Fisheries Museum of the Revelstoke Railway Parc National de la Atlantic 322 Museum 112 Yamaska 258 Fisherman’s Life Museum 316 Royal BC Museum 56-7 Parc National de l’Île- Fundy Geological Royal Tyrrell Museum of Bonaventure-et-du-Rocher- Museum 313 Palaeontology 125 Percé 296-7 FUSE 115 Silvery Slocan Museum 112 Parc National de Galerie d’Art Beauchamp 280 Sooke Region Museum 70 Miguasha 295 Gibsons Public Art Spirit Gallery 46 Parc National du Bic 300 Gallery 61 Trinity Museum 353 Parc National du Mont Orford 258, 261 Keno City Mining Museum 162 Trois Pignons 335

379 Parc National du Mont- Parc National du Mont- Mégantic 258 Tremblant 251 Q Parc National du Mont- Parc Nationale des Hautes Quail’s Gate 88 Tremblant 251 Gorges de la Rivière Quails’ Gate Winery 83 Parc Nationale des Hautes Malbaie 277 Qualicum Beach 76, 79 Gorges de la Rivière Parker Ridge Trail 136 Québec City 304-5 Malbaie 277 parking 365 parks & gardens Québécois culture 270 National Park 343-4 Beacon Hill Park 117 Strathcona Provincial Botanical Gardens 204 R

INDEX Park 78 Butchart Gardens 67 radio 362, 369 National Gallery of Canada 238 Fort William Historical Radium Hot Springs 100-1, 109

N-S Neil’s Harbour 332 Park 188 rafting 104 Nelson 111-12, 113 359 Rathtrevor Beach 76 New Denver 112 Parc Linéaire du P’tit Train du Regina 148, 149 New Glasgow 344-5, 347 Nord 246 Revelstoke 112, 113 newspapers 369 Parc Maritime de Rimouski 299-300 New-Wes-Valley 356 St-Laurent 276 Ripley’s Aquarium of Niagara Falls 16-17, 203, 205, West Coast Railway Canada 236 210 Heritage Park 48 road distances 363 Niagara Glen Nature Parliament Hill () 239 road rules 60, 364-5 Reserve 204 Parrsboro 313, 317 Roberval 287, 290-1 Niagara Peninsula, the 201-8 Peggy’s Cove 13, 321, 326 Rocher Percé 296 Niagara-on-the-Lake 205, 207- Pelee Island 225, 227 Rose Spit 96, 97 8, 210-11 Pender Island 67-8, 71 Nitainlaii Territorial Park 171 Percé 296-7, 301 Rosthern 154 North Hatley 261-2, 263 Peterborough 214, 217 Petrofka Orchard 152-3 S O Petroglyphs Provincial Park 216 safety 364, 365, 373 Ochre Ponds 101 petrol 22, 49, 186, 365 Saguenay 286, 290 Ogema 148, 149 Peyto Lake 135-6 Saint Peter’s Bay 343 Ogopogo 85 Pictou 341-2, 346 Salt Spring Island 68-9, 71 Okanagan Lavender Farm 84-5 223-4, Saskatchewan River Okanagan Valley 12 227 Crossing 136 Old Masset 95 Pleasant Bay 333, 337 Saskatoon 152, 157, 176-7 opening hours 372 Point Pelee National Park Sault Ste Marie 186, 189 224-5, 227 Ottawa 234, 235, 238-9 seals 353 Port Clements 94-5, 97 Ottawa Locks 238-9 Shannon Falls 48 Porte St-Louis 304 Shawinigan 268-9 P Porteau Cove Provincial Sherbrooke 262 Park 46 shipwrecks 223 Paint Pots 101 Powell River 61 Shubenacadie 340-1 Parc de l’île St-Quentin 270 Prairies, The 18 Sidney 66-7, 71 Parc Linéaire du P’tit Train du Prince Albert 155-6, 157 Signal Hill 350 Nord 248 Prince Albert National Park Silver Trail, the 162 Parc National de la 156, 157 Singing Sands 222 Mauricie 268 Prince Edward Island Six Nations of the Parc National de la Pointe- National Park 17, 343-4 Grand River 197 Taillon 289, 291 public holidays 373 Skagway 160, 165 Parc National de Miguasha puffin-watching 353 295-6 Skerwink Trail 353 Skidegate 92-4

380 skiing 52, 220, 247, 250-1, Telegraph Cove 77-8, 79 257, 277 telephone services 23, 373 W Skyline Trail, the 336 Terra Nova National Park 356 water parks 39, 247 Skylon Tower 203 Thousand Island Parkway waterfalls Slate Islands 187 229-32, 234 American Falls 203 smoking 369 Thousand Islands National Athabasca Falls 140 Park 232 snorkelling 223 Brandywine Falls 51 Thunder Bay 187-8 Sooke 70, 71 Bridal Veil Falls 203 tipping 23 Spiral Tunnels 103 Horseshoe Falls 203 Squamish 53 Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Lookout 172

Sunwapta Falls 139-40 INDEX Tlell 93-4, 97 Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Takakkaw Falls 103 Centre 52 Tobermory 223, 226-7

weather 22 S-Z Stanley Park 38-9, 43 Tofino 74-5, 79 weights 369 Stawamus Chief 48 toll roads 194 whale-watching 289, 324, 333 Ste-Adèle 2F47-8, 252 totem poles 39, 78, 92, 95, 117 Whistler 52, 53 Ste-Agathe-des-Monts 249 Tombstone Territorial Park 168 White Pass 160 Ste-Anne de Beaupré 276-7, 281 Toronto 27, 236-7 Whitehorse 162, 165 Ste-Irénée 279-80 tourist information 373 wi-fi 23, 371 Ste Anne des Monts 299, 301 Tow Hill 96 Wilcox Ridge 137 Ste Flavie 294-5 Townsite 61 Wild Play Element Parks 60 Ste Rose du Nord 289, 291 train travel 367 wildlife watching 20, 136, 277 St-Élie-de-Caxton 266-8 transport 23, 366-73, see wine 20 St-Faustin-Lac-Carré 250 also driving festivals 84, 208 St-Jérôme 246-7 Trinity 353, 357 tasting 12 St-Sauveur-des-Monts 247, 252 Trois-Rivières 269-70, 271 tips 83 St Hubertus Estate Winery Tuktoyaktuk 172, 173 wineries 85, 89 TV 369 Blomidon Estate Winery 325 St Jacobs 193 Twenty Valley Wine Country Chaberton Estate Winery 41 St John’s 350-1 208-9, 211 Creekside Estate Winery 208 Stewart Crossing 163 Twillingate 356, 357 Jost Winery 314 Stratford 194-5, 198 Tyrannosaurus rex 147 Konzelmann Estate Winery Sudbury 184-5, 189 207-8 Summerhill Pyramid 89 U Nk’Mip Cellars 84 Summerhill Pyramid Village 234 Pelee Island Winery 225 Winery 85 Rossignol Estate Winery 342 Summerlands Creamery 152 Sandhill Wines 84 Sunwapta Falls 139-40 V Sea Star Vineyards 67 surfing 316 vacations 373 Strewn 207 Sutton 257-8, 263 Val Marie 146-7, 149 Tawse Winery 209 Sydney 331, 337 Val-David 248-9, 252-3 Vista D’oro 41 Vancouver 24-5, 114-15 Wolfe Island 231 Vancouver Aquarium 39 T 324-5, 327 Vancouver Island 19 Table Rock 203 Woodland Cultural Centre 197 Victoria 56-7, 62, 70, 71, 116-17 Tadoussac 289, 291 World’s Largest Dinosaur 125 Victoria Harbour Ferry 57 Takakkaw Falls 103 Writing-on-Stone Provincial Ville de Mont-Tremblant 250-1, Tantalus Lookout 49, 51 253 Park 129 Tantalus Mountain Range 49 visas 22, 373 Tatamagouche 314 Vulcan 127 Taylor Head Provincial Park Z 315-16, 317 zip-lining 40, 268

381 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ADAM KARLIN JOHN LEE

Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet Born and raised in the historic UK city of St Albans, guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that John slowly succumbed to the lure of overseas ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe exotica, and arrived on Canada’s West Coast in 1993 Border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, to begin an MA in Political Science at the University of crime, politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil Victoria. Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches with stints living in Tokyo and Montréal, before he from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) returned to British Columbia to become a full-time and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, freelance writer in 1999. Now living in Vancouver, NPR, and multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is John specializes in travel writing and has contributed based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his to more than 150 different publications around the love of wetlands, food and good music. world.

CRAIG MCLACHLAN LIZA PRADO

Craig has covered destinations all over the globe Liza has been a travel writer since 2003, when she for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in made a move from corporate lawyering to travel Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs writing (and never looked back). She’s written dozens an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, of guidebooks and articles as well as apps and blogs then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading to destinations throughout the Americas. She takes tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Craig has decent photos too. Liza is a graduate of Brown completed a number of adventures in Japan and University and Stanford Law School. She lives very his books are available on Amazon. Check out www. happily in Denver, Colorado, with her husband and craigmclachlan.com fellow LP writer, Gary Chandler, and their two kids.

BRENDAN SAINSBURY PHILLIP TANG

Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico City. A Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty launched him into travel and then writing about it for until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious Peru and Vietnam guides. Writing at hellophillip.com, existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In photos @mrtangtangtang, and tweets @philliptang. the last 11 years, he has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru. OLIVER BERRY GREGOR CLARK

Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Gregor Clark is a US-based writer whose love of Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely provinces on countless road trips through his native Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, . Since 2000, Gregor has regularly including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. Europe and the Americas. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

SHAWN DUTHIE STEVE FALLON

Originally from Canada, Shawn has been traveling, A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated studying and working around the world for the past from Georgetown University with a Bachelor of 13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in Science in modern languages. After working for international politics, which led to several years of several years for an American daily newspaper lecturing at the University of Cape Town and, now, and earning a Master’s degree in journalism, his as a freelance political risk consultant specialising fascination with the ‘new’ Asia and led him to Hong in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing for a variety of media and running his own travel continent. bookshop. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles.

CAROLYN HELLER ANNA KAMINSKI

Carolyn has been a full-time travel, food, and feature Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in writer since 1996, writing for publications including Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University LonelyPlanet.com, Forbes Travel Guide, Boston Globe, of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Los Angeles Times and Viator Travel. The author of Studies, a background in the history, culture and several guidebooks, she’s also contributed to 50+ literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an travel and restaurant guides for Lonely Planet and enduring love of Latin America. Anna has contributed other publishers. She’s eaten her way across more to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the than 40 countries on six continents. road, Anna calls London home. OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

REGIS ST LOUIS RAY BARTLETT

Regis grew up in a small town in the American Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, of travel – and he developed an early fascination Indonesia, and many parts of the United States to life with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers, his formative years learning Russian and a handful and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Romance languages, which served him well of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango covering destinations across six continents. His dancer. He currently divides his time between homes travels have taken him from the mountains of in the USA, Japan, and Mexico. Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

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