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Canada's Best Trips 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd CANADA’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 32 ROAD TRIPS Regis St Louis Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Prado, Brendan Sainsbury, Phillip Tang SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to Canada ........................ 7 Canada Highlights ..........................10 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu If You Like... ................................... 20 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Need to Know ................................. 22 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly City Guide ....................................... 24 s Swimming a Air- Canada by Region .......................... 28 Conditioning Pool Canada Classic Trips ..................... 30 MAP LEGEND Routes Trips Trip Route Trip Numbers Trip Detour Linked Trip Trip Stop ON THE ROAD Walk Route Tollway Walking tour Freeway Primary Trip Detour Secondary BRITISH COLUMBIA .........33 Tertiary Population Lane Capital (National) Vancouver & the Unsealed Road Capital 1 Fraser Valley ............2 Days 37 Plaza/Mall (State/Province) Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Sea to Sky Pedestrian 2 Highway ................1–2 Days 45 Overpass Areas Walk Track/Path Beach A Strait Hop ......... 2–3 Days 55 Cemetery 3 Boundaries (Christian) International Cemetery (Other) State/Province Park Southern Vancouver Cliff Forest 4 Island Tour ........... 4–5 Days 65 Reservation Hydrography Urban Area River/Creek Sportsground Vancouver Island’s Swamp/Mangrove 5 Remote North ...... 2–3 Days 73 Canal Transport Water Airport Dry/Salt/ Cable Car/ Okanagan Valley Intermittent Lake Funicular 6 Wine Tour .................2 Days 81 Glacier Metro/Muni station Parking Haida Gwaii Route Markers Subway station 7 Adventure .................2 Days 91 Trans-Canada Hwy Train/Railway Provincial/ Tram Territorial Hwy US National Hwy US Interstate Hwy Note: Not all symbols 2 displayed above appear on US State Hwy the maps in this book CONTENTS Circling the North from 8 Rockies .....................3 Days 99 d Saskatoon ........... 3–4 Days 151 Around the Klondike 9 Kootenays ............ 5–6 Days 107 e Highway ............... 4–5 Days 159 Dempster THE PRAIRIE f Highway ................6–7 Days 167 PROVINCES & THE NORTH ....................119 ONTARIO .........................179 Dinosaurs, Hoodoos & Lake Superior a the Wild West...... 2–3 Days 123 g Coastline ..................7 Days 183 Icefields People & b Parkway ....................2 Days 133 h Culture Loop ........ 4–5 Days 191 Explore Southern The Niagara c Saskatchewan ... 3–4 Days 143 i Peninsula ..................3 Days 201 The Prairie Provinces & the North British p119 Columbia Québec The Atlantic p33 p241 Region Ontario p179 p307 3 Contents cont. j The Kawarthas .........5 Days 213 THE ATLANTIC REGION ...........................307 Southern Ontario k Nature Loop ..........5–7 Days 219 Central s Nova Scotia ...........10 Days 311 Thousand Island l Parkway ....................7 Days 229 South Shore t Circular ...................10 Days 319 QUÉBEC ..........................241 The Cabot u Trail ...................... 2–3 Days 329 Up to the m Laurentians ..............2 Days 245 Two Islands, Three v Provinces .................8 Days 339 Eastern n Townships ...................1 Day 255 Icebergs, Vikings w & Whales ..................5 Days 349 Montréal to o Québec City ................1 Day 265 Around, Over & p In the St ROAD TRIP Lawrence River ........3 Days 273 ESSENTIALS The Saguenay Fjord q & Lac St Jean ...... 3–4 Days 283 Canada Driving Guide .................361 Circling the r Gaspé Canada Travel Guide ................... 366 Peninsula ............ 7–8 Days 293 Index ..............................................376 Nova Scotia Fishing boats in Peggy’s Cove (p321) JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © 4 5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments help make BEHIND our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet. THE com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your SCENES comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. WRITER THANKS into shape, and to my fellow Banff and Jasper’s trails: Chloe, writers for making this book Sophie, Wes and Ted, that means RAY BARTLETT what it is. Heartfelt thanks you! Couldn’t have asked for a Thanks first and foremost, to to Rosie Hillier for putting up more delightful research crew. Buck, for the chance to work on with my wanderlust, and to this, and to each of the editors Susie Berry for long-distance SHAWN DUTHIE who will peek at it afterwards, correspondence. Thanks also It was great to re-connect with and to the great team of co- to Sam White, Justin Foulkes, my home province and my authors. Thanks as well to Deborah Gill, Anna Louis deepest thanks to Vivek, Danny my family, friends, and to the and many others for useful and Stefan for allowing me to incredible collage of folks I met Canadian tips and much-needed sleep on your couch, driving too along the way: Kristina, Vera, hospitality. many kilometres to count and Rubí, Miro, Allan & Dan, Cat and just making the research even Greg, Louise and Melva, Alice H, GREGOR CLARK more fun than usual. Of course, Molly and Spencer (congrats!), Heartfelt thanks to all of the my biggest thank you is to my Morgan, William Flenders, Josh kind Albertans and fellow wife and son who put up with all W, Char, the “Lindsays,” Riya, travelers who shared their love my traveling! and many more. and knowledge of Banff and Jasper – especially Karina Birch, STEVE FALLON OLIVER BERRY Kate Williams, Ken Wood, Paul Un très grand merci to the folk Big thanks to Ben Buckner Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, Ed and who offered assistance, ideas for the chance to return to Vanessa, Shauna and Lindsay. and/or hospitality along the way, write about Canada, to the LP Thanks also to the family and including Gabriel d’Anjou Drouin editors for whipping my work friends who helped me explore and Maxime Aubin in Québec THIS BOOK Destination Editor Ben Buckner Dankel, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Senior Product Editors Martine Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon, Canada’s Best Trips guidebook Power, Saralinda Turner, Grace Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, was curated by Regis St Louis. Dobell Christopher Pitts, Sarah It was researched and written Jenna Myers Product Editor Reid, Tamara Sheward, Simon by Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Regional Senior Cartographer Williamson Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie, Corey Hutchison Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Book Designer Gwen Cotter Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, Thanks to Catherine Naghten John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Prado, Brendan Sainsbury and James Bainbridge, Judith Phillip Tang. This guidebook was Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Joel produced by the following: Cotterell, Lucy Cowie, Melanie 374 City; Vicky Drolet in Malbaie; wild little Isaac, and my favorite passers-by who helped me, Sylvie Senécal & Pierre Lachance traveling companions: Rachel, unwittingly or otherwise, during in Ville de Mont-Tremblant; and who can layer for anything, and my research trip. Special thanks Carolyne Cyr and Pierre-André Sanda, who endures the road to my wife Liz, my son Kieran Guichoud in Ste-Adèle. Et à mon better than her daddy. and my mother-in-law Ammy for cher ‘pays d’hiver’ qui a combattu their company (and patience) on le bon combat et gagné! (And to JOHN LEE the road. my beloved `land of winter’ that Heartfelt thanks to Maggie fought the good fight and won!) for joining me at all those PHILLIP TANG As always, my share is dedicated restaurants and for keeping me Thank you to Ben Buckner and to my now spouse and almost calm during the brain-throbbing the DEs for your expertise and Quebecer, Michael Rothschild. final write-up phase of this legacy. Muchas gracias a Lalo project. Thanks also to Max, (José Eduardo García Sánchez) CAROLYN HELLER our crazy-whiskered ginger por tu apoyo y consejo sobre Many thanks to all the friends cat, for sticking by my desk and estilo y mucho más desde lejos. and colleagues who shared their also reminding me to chase him Thank you to Felix, Nick Zhang Québec tips, especially Kim around the house every once in a and all the other Montréalers Huard-Carette and Emily Dunn. while. Cheers also to my brother who offered guidance; and to Special thanks to Ben Buckner Michael for visiting from England Manuelle González Goretti for for signing me onto the Canada and checking out some local advice on the Eastern Townships team, to Suzie Loiselle and breweries with me: you really and adventures in the Village. Étienne Fiola for all the advice know how to go the extra mile. and the crêpes, and to Michaela Albert, ace travel buddy, snow CRAIG MCLACHLAN ACKNOWLEDGE- hiker, and champion lobster A hearty thanks to all those MENTS eater. who helped out on the road, but Climate map data adapted most of all, to my exceptionally
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