OUR STORY Use: Recommended for Use on Serger Loopers on Medium to Heavy Fabrics
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Pleats, Tucks, & Ruffles
My BERNINA BERNINA ACCESSORIES WORKBOOK PLEATS, TUCKS, & RUFFLES GATHERING PINTUCKS PINTUCKS & STITCHES PLEATING & RUFFLING NARROW TUCKS 48 My BERNINA BERNINA ACCESSORIES WORKBOOK GATHERING Gathering Foot #16 comes in two versions, one for 5.5 mm machines and one for 9 mm machines. They are both called #16 and both have a 5.5 mm needle opening. One is wider than the other and it is designed to fit the wider feed teeth of the larger machines. Supplies & Settings • Three pieces medium weight cotton, one 3” x 6” and two 4” x 12” Gathering Foot #16 • Cotton or polyester thread • Gathering Foot #16 • 80/12 Universal needle • Center needle position • Stitch: Straight Stitch Gathering Attach the gathering foot to the machine, select the Straight Stitch and adjust the stitch length to 5 mm. Swatch #1 1. Place one 12” length of fabric right side up under the foot. 2. Stitch the length of the fabric; it will gather as it goes under the needle. Swatch #2 1. Place the remaining 12” length of fabric right side up under the presser foot. Stitch 2”-3” and stop. Note: There are three things that 2. Insert the 6” length of fabric right side down into affect the amount of gathers: the slot of the foot with the raw edge against the right side of the slot. Fabric Weight—The lighter weight the 3. Continue stitching, carefully guiding both pieces of fabric, the more it gathers. fabric. Guide the fabric being gathered with the left hand and the flat piece of fabric with the right hand. -
Free Motion Quilting by Joanna Marsh of Kustom Kwilts and Designs
Tips and Tools of the Trade for Successful Free Motion Quilting By Joanna Marsh of Kustom Kwilts and Designs Are you looking to add some “pizzazz” to your pieced quilting projects? The quilting on a project can add drama and really make a statement in what might otherwise be an ordinary quilt. Let’s take a look at the basic steps to getting started on your journey into free motion quilting! Supplies you’ll want to invest in (or at least research): • Free motion foot-compatible to your machine • Quality machine quilting thread • Scrap batting (no smaller than 10” x 10”) • Scrap fabrics (no smaller than 10” x 10”) • Spray baste or safety pins • Sketchbook and pens/pencils • Quilting needles • Disappearing ink pen (optional) • Seam ripper • Supreme slider by Pat LaPierre (smaller size) • Stencils • Chalk pounce pad • Chalk for pounce pad • Various rulers for quilting (1/4” thick) • Ruler foot (if applicable) Tools of the Trade: Drawbacks and Benefits Tool Benefit Drawback Spray Baste Fast and more convenient than safety pins. Can gum up your needles. It needs to be More repositionable. sprayed outside. Disappearing Ink Pen Great for marking. The pens that disappear with heat can reappear in extreme cold. Pens that are “air” soluble will have markings that won’t last long the more humid the air is, but can reappear after washing. Quilting Gloves Provide you with an extra grip for easier Personal preference - they can be hot. movement of quilt sandwich. Supreme Slider Allows for super easy movement of quilt layers, Can be expensive. Needs to be replaced over especially helpful on domestic machines/sit time and use and has to be kept clean. -
Sewing Machine Needle Tips
Quilters Corner 518 West State Street Ithaca, New York 14850 Authorized PFAFF & Baby Lock sewing machine dealer 607-266-0850 www.e-quilterscorner.com Sewing Machine Needle Tips Did you know that you should change your machine needle every 6-8 hours of sewing? It's true! Changing your needle is one of the best preventative machine maintenance tasks you can do. You want the tip of the needle to be super sharp to go through your fabric without catching the threads. As you stitch, the tip of your needle will get microscopic nicks. The longer you sew on that same old needle, the more your pretty stitches will start to deteriorate. Why spend time sewing crummy stitches? Don't forget while changing your needle to take off your needle plate and brush your machine's teeth (clean around and in between the feed dogs, etc). If you don't do this, eventually you'll have dense pads of lint collecting and building up and it will effect how your fabric feeds. You should also clean around your bobbin area every time you change your bobbin. Just a quick swipe with a little brush will do the trick. What needle should you use? Quilting Needles are made especially for piecing and machine quilting. The special tapered design allows for easier fabric penetra- tion and helps eliminate skipped stitches. If you are having trouble burying your threads while quilting, try a single hole plate. The smaller hole in the plate helps keep the fabric from pulling through to the bobbin and the bobbin thread from pulling to the top. -
Bernina Bernina Accessories Workbook Bernina
MYMy BERNINA BERNINA ACCESSORIES WORKBOOK BERNINA MASTERY BOOK SERIES Presser Feet and Accessories BERNINA PRESSER FEET ACCESSORIES WORKBOOK 1 ©2019 BERNINA of America. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. 06022019 My BERNINA BERNINA ACCESSORIES WORKBOOK TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ....................................... 4 CORDED EDGE ....................................... 25 FEET INFORMATION ................................ 5 NARROW HEM ....................................... 26 SEAMS ..................................................... 6 TRIMMED EDGE ..................................... 27 PATCHWORK SEAM ................................ 7 SPECIALTY FABRICS .............................. 28 STANDARD SEAM .................................... 8 SEWING JEANS & DENIM ...................... 29 KNIT SEAM ............................................... 9 SEWING LEATHER, VINYL & PLASTIC .... 30 FAGOTED SEAM .................................... 10 APPLIQUÉ & DECORATIVE STITCHES .. 31 HEMSTITCHED SEAM ............................. 11 BLANKET STITCH APPLIQUÉ .................. 32 EDGE JOINING SEAM ............................. 12 INVISIBLE APPLIQUÉ .............................. 33 FLAT FELLED SEAM ................................ 13 DECORATIVE STITCHING ....................... 34 CLOSURES ............................................. 14 QUILTING ............................................... 35 MANUAL BUTTONHOLES ..................... -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Yarn Couching
Threads n Scissors Machine Yarn Couching IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ Materials These designs are made to be used with a Freemotion Yarn Stabilizer: Couching Foot. Please check with your dealer regarding this Either two layers of foot for your machine. water soluble OR I own a Bernina Artista and use the #43 foot 1 layer of cutaway The designs are smaller than a regular design. Be sure to use a large hoop for these designs. The Yarn Couching Foot is Freemotion Yarn Couching Foot LARGER than a normal embroidery foot and needs the extra space not to hit into the hoop. 2mm diameter yarn or Before starting any Yarn Couching Design, snap the Yarn cording to be used with foot Couching Foot firmly into place, put your hoop into the ma- chine and LIFT the pressure foot. Check the design or Trace Fabric of choice, I used the design to be sure that the foot won’t hit the embroidery suede type fabric hoop when stitching. When you are sure all is right, you may start stitching your designs. Embroidery thread Follow these Instructions to continue with the stitching of your design. No 80 embroidery needle or needle rec- ommended to be used Hoop either 2 layers of water soluble stabilizer OR 1 layer of cutaway stabilizer with couching foot with your fabric. Using a normal embroidery foot, stitch out the design leaving the last color. Some of the Designs may have the same color used two or three times at the end. Don’t stitch these yet. These are color stops used for the yarn or cording. -
Stitch Setting Chart
STITCH SETTING CHART STITCH SETTING CHART The following chart shows information for each utility stitch concerning applications, stitch lengths, stitch widths, and whether or not the twin needle mode can be used. Stitch width Stitch length Presser foot [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Twin Stitch Stitch name Applications needle Auto. Manual Auto. Manual Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Left) etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK pressing “Reverse/ (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Left) etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK while pressing “Reverse/ (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Middle) etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 3.5 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK pressing “Reverse/ (1/8) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Middle) etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 3.5 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK while pressing “Reverse/ (1/8) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Triple stretch General sewing for 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 1.5 - 4.0 OK stitch reinforcement and decorative (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) topstitching Stem stitch Reinforced stitching, sewing and 1.0 1.0 - 3.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0 OK decorative applications (1/16) (1/16 - 1/8) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) Decorative Decorative stitching, top 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0 OK stitch stitching (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) Basting stitch Basting 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 20.0 5.0 - 30.0 NO (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/4) (3/16 - 1-3/16) Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. -
Silverwork and Sequins
Session 2: Cornucopia II: Silverwork and sequins In this session you will be learning how to couch metallic threads, both Jap Thread and twist. You will also learn how to stitch sequins in place using a bead. Metallic threads add a touch of sparkle to your embroidery designs. They are made by tightly wrapping a flat metallic strip around a core of cotton or silk thread. This produces a shiny thread which can be bought in a range of sizes. There are particular ways of stitching with metallic threads which you will learn in this session. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR THIS SESSION: • Embroidery hoop or small frame • Embroidery scissors • Needles: o Crewel/embroidery needle size 10/12 o Large-eyed needle such as a chenille or tapestry needle (large enough to take the metallic threads) • The worked embroidery from Session 1: Cornucopia I: Blackwork Infills • Silver Jap Thread • Silver Twist Thread (or DMC silver metallic stranded thread) • Grey sewing cotton • Silver sequins, 3-4 mm, either round or flower-shaped or both: about 5-6 in total • Silver or clear seed beads, one per sequin plus one spare READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH BEFORE YOU START YOUR EMBROIDERY. WORKING THE EMBROIDERY: HORN-OF-PLENTY SECTIONS 1. Place your worked piece from Session 1: Cornucopia I: Blackwork Infills in your hoop or frame (if it isn’t still there!) 2. You are going to use a technique called COUCHING to stitch the silver threads in position on your embroidery. Metallic threads are often too heavy to stitch through the fabric and the outer metallic cover will separate off if you take them through the fabric too often. -
Business of Machine Quilting Angela Walters, Angela Walters
Business of Machine Quilting Angela Walters, Angela Walters Creative Commons - BY -- 2012 Acknowledgements A big thanks to the professional machine quilters that have agreed to be interviewed for this blog series. Tia Curtis Lisa Sipes Joanna Peterson Dodie Jacobie Table of Contents Before You Start: 1 Introduction 1 Picking out the right machine. 3 Location, Location, Location 8 Develop a Business Plan 14 Decide how you are going to run your business. 18 Before You Start: Introduction Before You Start: Introduction It’s Monday, so that means that it is time for the first post in the Business of Machine Quilting blog series. I have to admit that I am excited to be doing this. I always thought that it would be great to be a motivational speaker, and this series will let me pretend that I am! So let me tell you what I have in store for you. This blog series is going to last the rest of the year and I plan on delving into most aspects of starting and running a Machine Quilting business. Each month, the blog posts will focus on a different subject. Here is the tentative schedule: August: Before You Start This month’s topics will discuss machines, space, and the other things you might want to consider before deciding to start quilting for others. September: Getting Started Wondering if you are ready to start quilting for others? Or wondering how much you should charge? In September we will dive into those topics as well as other things about getting started. October: Up & Running Running a business is more than just bringing in customers, you need to have a plan. -
Authors/Editors Subject
AUTHORS/EDITORS SUBJECT APS VHS video AQS catalogue AQS catalogue DOAK, CAROL paper pieced LARK BOOKS art quilts CAMPBELL-HARDING, VALERIE strip piecing HACKETT, MARY L. landscape HACKETT, MARY L. landscapes FREEMAN, ROLAND quilt history PERRY, ROSILAND & FROLLI, MARY applique SUIT, MARY SUE patchwork ROLFE, MARGARET animal designs SIUDARA, ZYLPHA DVD PORTER, CHRISTINE & DARRA WILLIAMSON small quilts JOHNSTON, ANN dyeing WAGNER, CAROL architectual quilting DONALSDON, JANIE quilting designs BARROW, JODI sq. in a sq. BISHOP, ROBERT patriotic quilts ALDERMAN, BETTY Redwork HECHTLINGER, ALDELAIDE history of quilts MARSTON, G. & CUNNINGHAMJ. flower quilts MARSTON, G. & J. CUNNINGHAM traditional quilts BETTER HOMES & GARDENS collection REGAN, JENNIFER history of quilts GARNAS, VICKI traditional quilts GREEN, MARY (ed) Collection LAWSON, SUZY Amish Quilts JENKINS & GOLDSMITH amish BURNS, ELEANOR Amish Quilts PELLMAN, RACHEL Amish quilts MARSTON, G. & CUNNINGHAM, J. Amish Quilting designs HENNING, BRENDA scrap quilts BUTLER, AMY purse patterns OROYAN, SUSANNA dolls HICKEY, MARY basics BOYCE, ANN applique SIENKIEWICZ, ELLIE applique MERRETT, STEWART applique BUCKLEY, KAREN KAY applique ANDERSON, FAYE applique BASS, CHARLOTTE applique LAURY, JEAN RAY applique TOWNSWICK, JANE hand applique WHITE, TONEE holiday/seasonal WHITE, TONEE applique EICHORN, ROSEMARY art quilts COLLINS, SALLY piecing basics WOLFF, COLETTE manipulating fabric JOYCE, HENRY history of quilts SHAW, ROBERT art quilts JOHNSTON, JACK dolls ROBINSON, CHARLOTTE Collection PIPPEN, -
VSQ Library Books - Author Sort - 060111
VSQ Library Books - Author Sort - 060111 *_TITLE_* *_AUTHOR_* 101 Full-Size Quilt Blocks & Borders Better Homes & Gardens The Quiltmakers of Gee’s Bend DVD Once Upon a Quilt Aldrich, Margret Sashiko Made Simple Allen, Alice Colorwash Quilts Amsden, Deirdre Pieced Border Collection Arroman, Denvse Saint Patience to Raise the Sun Art Quilts from Haiti Country Quilt Design Baker, M. Jane Creative Quilting with Kids Ball, Maggie Victorian Quilting Ballantine Books Transitions Balosky, Andrea Flower Power Barber, Barbara Foolproof Curves Barber, Barbara Little Quilts Berg/Von Holt/Johnson America’s Heritage Quilts Better Homes & Gardens American Patchwork Quilting Better Homes & Gardens Creative American Quilting Better Homes & Gardens Friendship Quilting Better Homes & Gardens Full Size Quilting Patterns Better Homes & Gardens New Patchwork & Quilting Book Better Homes & Gardens Two Color Quilts Better Homes and Gardens Discovery Beyer, Jinny 24 Floral Blocks to Piece Boerens, Trice Easy Does It Quilts Bonesteel, Georgia That Dorky Homemade Look Boyer, Lisa Star Quilts for Quilters Boyink, Betty Quilts - From Colonial to Contemporary Bullard, Lacy Folmar Quilt in a Day (Log Cabin) Burns, Eleanor Quilter’s Almanac Burns, Eleanor Sampler Burns, Eleanor Applique in a Day Burns, Eleanor Contemporary Quilting Techniques Cairns, Pat Woven Quilted Caplinger, Mary Anne Quilting to Soothe the Soul Carlson, Linda 24 Musical Quilt Blocks Causee, Linda Cross Country Quilting (novel) Chiaverini, Jennifer Elm Creek Quilts Chiaverini, Jennifer Quilter’s -
A Guide to Finishing Your Group Quilt
A guide to finishing your group quilt Group quilts are a great way to be creative, sociable and learn new skills from each other. Use this easy step-by-step guide to help you put your group quilt together. Please contact the Quilt Museum’s Education Officer ([email protected] ) if you need further advice. What do I need to finish the quilt? • Your finished (sewn together) quilt top. This may be a series of patchwork blocks arranged in a chosen formation, usually a rectangular shape. • Wadding for the middle of your quilt – a cotton or cotton/polyester mix is easier to quilt with but if you can only get polyester, get a reasonable quality one, around 4oz heavy. You may not be able to get wadding in the complete quilt size but can always sew pieces together to fit your quilt top. • Backing fabric – a sheet is always good if you can’t find enough fabric. Make sure the backing fabric is at least an inch larger than the quilt top and wadding all the way around. • Pins for the tacking and binding stages • Spray-on adhesive (e.g. 505 spray) or brightly coloured thread and a needle for tacking • A sewing machine for quilting or wool/thick embroidery thread and a good embroidery needle for knot-quilting (quilting with a machine will make your quilt stronger but knot quilting is easy and students can help with this). How do I prepare? 1. Layer your quilt like a sandwich. Start by placing the backing fabric, face down on the floor or a large table.