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Home , Ardnamurchan, Barra Head, Barra Head Lighthouse, Benbecula, Berneray (North Uist), Castlebay

Contents

Preface 2 Introduction 4 General introduction to sailing in the Outer 4 Charts and maps 5 Tides 6 Weather and forecasting 6 Anchorages, mooring and berthing 8 Equipment 10 Chartering and instruction 11 Communications 12 Travel 13 Emergencies 14 Notes on sailing directions and plans 14

1 Head to 16 2 South 39 3 52 4 62 5 72 6 South Harris 88 7 Lewis 108 8 West of the 130

Appendix 154 Charts and other publications 154 Services and supplies 157 Distance tables 158 Gaelic glossary 160 Submarine exercise areas 162 Western Isles Council mooring fees 163 Index 165 0 10 20 30 30’ Nautical Miles

N

E Loch W Loch Roag p.151 LEWIS Depths in Metres Eye Hr Peninsula 7. Lewis p.108 8. West side of L Erisort the Outer Hebrides p.130 Scarp Loch Shell 58˚N Loch Gasgeir Seaforth W Loch Tarbert Shiant Is Boreray Sd of Harris Scalpay 5. Sound of Harris S Kilda 6. South Harris p.72 HARRIS p.153 E Loch Tarbert p.88 Pabbay

Berneray Is Rubha Hunish

4. North Uist p.62 Pt N UIST L Maddy

L Eport Heisker or Little Minch 30’ Monach Is 3. Benbecula p.52 Benbecula SKYE Wiay Neist Pt L Carnan L Skipport L S UIST 2. p.39 L

L Boisdale Eriskay

57˚ Rum Barra The

Barra Hd 1. to Eriskay p.16 Pt

30’8˚ 30’ 7˚W 6˚ 6. South Harris

Taransay

Tarbert N Sound of Shiant

Scalpay p.104 Fl(3)20s43m23M East Loch Fl.G.6s G SOUTH Tarbert p.94 p.97 YB HARRIS Sgeir Inoe Q(6)+ p.100 Loch LFl.15s Stockinish Loch Gheocrab Loch Grosebay

p.92 Loch Flodabay Sgeir Graidach + Loch Finsbay YB Eugenie Rock Q(6)+LFl.15s p.90 e Minch l Fladda-chuain

Renish Pt Gaeilavore The Litt 0 5 10 Sound of Harris SOUTH HARRIS Nautical Miles KEY PLAN Sound of Harris to East Loch There are no large scale charts, and the plans in this book are based on Admiralty surveys from Tarbert about 1860 at a scale of 1:10,560, supplemented The coastline from Renish Point at the Sound by individual observations, and are indicative Admiralty Chart of Harris to Rubha Bhocaig, at the south 1757, 1795 only of the hazards which may be met. It is Admiralty Leisure Folio entrance to , is a distance of emphasised that careful pilotage is essential. 5616. 10 10 miles and is indented with many lochs Imray Chart which offer anchorage. These include Loch Tides C66 Rodel, Lingara Bay, Loch Finsbay, Lochs (Interpolated between Leverburgh and Tarbert) Constant –0035 Ullapool (–0455 Dover) Gheocrab and Beacravik, Loch Stockinish and 18 Height in metres Lochs Grosebay and Scadabay all of which can Cruising MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS pp.190-192 be used in suitable conditions as shelter or as 4·8 3·8 2·8 2·0 0·7 interesting places to visit. NE-going stream begins –0335 Ullapool (+0430 Dover) Directions SW-going stream begins +0250 Ullapool (–0130 Dover) Off the headlands the tidal rate may reach 2 knots sp. but To clear this coast and remain free of hazards the streams are very weak in the lochs. including Nun Rock and Bogha Bhocaig both 1 Lights off Rubha Bhocaig, keep at least ⁄2 mile SE of a line from Renish Point to Rubha Bhocaig. In There are none southwest of the entrance to East Loch Tarbert, but the following will be of some help: poor visibility the fact that Rubha Chluar Eilean Glas, Scalpay Fl(3)20s43m 23M (plan p.97) is dark and steep to with no Neist Point, Skye Fl.5s43m16M offlying islands may be the only distinguishing Waternish Point, Skye Fl.20s21m8M feature.

88 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 6. South Harris

Martin Lawrence

Rodel from the east

Rodel from the NW

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 89 Outer Hebrides

Tides Rodel SOUTH HARRIS Const. –0040 Ullapool (–0500 Dover) Height in metres Rubha MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS St Clements Church Vallarip Tr 4·6 3·5 2·6 1·9 0·6

125 Wk See plan Poll an Directions Tighmhail 5 Hotel From the Sound of Harris give Renish Point a good offing and beware of vigorous wind Bay Channel against tide conditions which may be present Sea Channel here even in moderate winds. The square tower Corr Eilean of St Clement’s Church on the east side of the loch forms a good landmark. When entering 5 Loch Rodel keep at least 1 cable off the SW Loch Rodel side to avoid Duncan Rock (0·3m over it) near

03 Duncan the entrance. There is a wreck whose position Rock is uncertain, and a rock near the northern corner of the loch. Cairn 5 Anchorage Temporary anchorage whilst waiting for the tide to enter Poll an Tighmhail may be had SW Sound of Harris of the shingle beach on the NE side of Loch Renish Rodel. Take care to avoid a drying rock about Point 100m offshore towards the northern end of the 0 5 Cables shingle beach. Anchor in 8m, weed. The submerged wreck off the point at the head of Renish Island the loch is now charted as being well covered. LOCH RODEL Loch Rodel The entrance to the loch lies just north of Renish Point. The main part of the loch is exposed to the south and provides temporary anchorage only. Poll an Tighmhail (see opposite) provides better anchorage although The Sea Channel, Poll an entry is only possible when there is sufficient Tighmhaill at LW rise of tide.

Randal Coe

90 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 6. South Harris

HARRIS

25 2 Hotel 2 5 5 Quay & Stone 3 stone ramp 79 10 2 9 3 (0 ) ramp 6 13 22 16 4 3 7 27 Eilean 5 Pillar 10 3 32 Perch 5 Rk 13 Uiseagraich Bay 3 66 05 1 4 13 Channel 1 Shingle 2 1 5 3 29 06 7 6 9 Poll an Tighmhail 10 21 12 8 7 15 V V 15 7 V 2 15 10 3 FLODDAY 4 6 7 08 8 1 (16) 1 Sea Channel 4 5 2 62 Boulders 2 (25) 17 Corr-eilean 22 Island Channel Loch (dangerous) Rodel VALLAY 5

0 1 Cable

0 100 200 Metres 10

POLL AN TIGHMHAILL be necessary. It is reported that the restricted Rodel (Poll an Tighmhail) Admiralty Chart A deep pool on the east side Loch Rodel, space in the NE corner behind a rock (dries 2802, 1757 enclosed by three islets Vallay, Flodday and 3·5m) offers anchorage in 3·2m for small Admiralty Leisure Folio vessels. A survey by dinghy or the help of local 5616. 10A, 10B Corr-eilean which give perfect shelter. Access is Imray Chart governed by the height of the tide as all the knowledge is advisable before entering this part of the pool. Anchor bow and stern, taking C66 channels between the islets dry. Ordnance Survey a line ashore if necessary. Holding ground is 18 Approach reported poor throughout the pool. Cruising Scotland p.190 Bay Channel, which dries 1·1m, is the best Services entrance. Making entry keep slightly south of Hotel with restaurant. Showers available. mid-channel and steer to pass 15m south of 1 Pillar Rock on which there is a perch, then head Shops, PO and fuel at Leverburgh 2 ⁄2 miles. towards the north side of the Sea Channel. When the top of the rectangular Pillar Rock is awash there is 3·1m in the channel. When the base of that rock is awash there is 1·9m in the channel. Sea Channel entrance dries 0·8m with a flat sill covered by heavy kelp. The channel is 20m wide but it must be used with caution if any swell or wave surge is present. Care is required to avoid the rock (dries 1·6m) at the east end of the channel. Island Channel dries and due to the rock strewn bottom is dangerous at any state of the tide and should not be used. Anchorage The centre of the pool is deep with poor holding but 3 visitors moorings are available Pillar Rock in the Bay on the south side. Anchorage is possible in the Channel, Poll an north of the pool off the quay and stone ramp Tighmhaill. In 2011 it in 5m. Swinging is restricted and a kedge may Edward Mason was sporting a plastic puffin topmark

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 91 Outer Hebrides

+ + + + + + + ++ Eilean + CollamEilean Lingara Bay Collam Lingara Bay Jetty 10 Jetty + + * Ard Manish 10 + * N * + 10 + + Lingarabay 5 + 5 Island + * + + 10 Bogha Leum + + * (2) ** + Lingarabay Allister Rock * + Island + + + + (17) Depths in Metres + +

Loch Flodabay

*

Quidnish

5

Ardvey + + * Sgeir na h-Acairseid (15) + + + *+

+ 10 Rubha Quidnish 10 014˚-194˚ Loch Finsbay

En Druim an Tolla 10 + + * + Eilean * + 10 Quidnish + 2 + + * + 290˚ Finsbay 0 5 Island + Cables

LOCH FINSBAY AND LOCH FLODABAY WITH Anchorage LINGARA BAY (INSET) Lingara Bay About 2 miles NE of Loch Rodel. Sheltered by Anchor just past the south side of Eilean Lingarabay Island and islets. Collam in 5m. The inlet beyond is inaccessible as it is encumbered with rocks. Excellent Approach shelter in winds from the south round by west The east entrance is wide and hazard free but to north but untenable in easterly weather. if approaching from the NE note rocks 1 extending 1 ⁄2 cables offshore 4 cables east of the entrance.

92 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 6. South Harris

Loch Finsbay This loch, a mile in length, provides good sheltered anchorage which is relatively easy of access. 3 The entrance lies ⁄4 mile southwest of Rubha Quidnish, between Finsbay Island, which is 17 metres high, steep-sided with grass on top, on the south side, and Eilean Quidnish which is 13 metres high with a sharper peak. Drying and submerged rocks lie up to a cable north of Finsbay Island, and drying reefs and submerged rocks lie up to 2 cables ESE and northeast of Eilean Quidnish. Directions From the south, do not turn into the loch until about midway between the two islands. From the northeast keep Ard Manish open east of Rubha Quidnish 032° astern to clear the rocks east of Eilean Quidnish. Martin Lawrence Inside the loch, keep the north side of Eilean Loch Finsbay: the Druim an Tolla, which is at the tip of a Loch Flodabay anchorage north of promontory on the south side, bearing 290° to Ardvey is beyond the This loch is encumbered with below water reef in the foreground avoid drying rocks on the north side of the rocks and is not particularly recommended. channel, then pass a cable north of Eilean There appears, from an old Admiralty Survey, Druim an Tolla. Admiralty Chart to be a clear passage, following the NE shore, 1757 Turn to starboard and steer with the to the head of the loch leaving Bogha Leum Admiralty Leisure Folio promontory off which Eilean Druim an Tolla (dries 2m) to port. Note two further rocks 5616. 10A Imray Chart lies bearing 194° astern, and the conspicuous awash near the head of the loch. All three rocks bluff on the east side of an inlet ahead bearing C66 are about 1 cable from the NE shore and Ordnance Survey 014° (not the inlet further east), passing about 14 3 should all be left to port. ⁄4 cable east of Ardvey, between Sgeir na h- Several rocks lie off Aird Mhanais, a low Cruising Scotland Acarsaid which dries 1·5 metres and drying lying headland. These include Allister Rock p.192 reefs off Ardvey. (dries 1·7m) and Earr Manish (dries 2·3m). Accordingly, when passing Aird Mhanais, give Anchorage The anchorage in Loch Ardvey Anchor north of Ardvey in 4 metres, it a wide berth of 5 cables. Beacravik (p.95) from the rather soft mud. Telephone. Some private NW. The salmon hatchery is left of centre moorings. and has now been extended and is green.

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 93 Outer Hebrides

0 3 Cables

Overhead cable 6m 5

5 Ardvey Hard Rk Reef Rk N (18) (06) Poll Scrot (06) Moorings 10 Pontoon Loch Pier Pier (Diesel) Stockinish 37 7 10 Perch (G) Sgeir a Chaise 10 Depths in Metres Caolas Beag STOCKINISH ISLAND 5 YB Bo Na h’Airde 10 (25)

0 5

Cables Bo of Am Maoladh the Den + Reef Rk (06) Poll Scrot Loch Chluar Pontoon + Caolas Beag Jetty

Shed * 10 10 (2) Bo na YB Stockinish * h’Airde Island (25) Loch * Loch Beacravik * Gheocrab 10 * Glas Eilean Sgeir Aird Mhor Caolas Leasait * Mor 10 10 10 En nan (1) * Eun * (2) Dubh Stac Dubh Sgeir Mor + 10 10 + * + + + (3)

+ +

10

Eilean Mhanais

330˚

Ard Manish * + Earr Manish + ** * (23)

* * Allister Rock (17)

LOCH BEACRAVIK, LOCH GEOCRAB AND LOCH STOCKINISH WITH POLL SCROT (INSET)

94 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 6. South Harris

Loch Beacravik Tides Admiralty Chart About 3 miles from Loch Finsbay, Loch Const. –0027 Ullapool (–0447 Dover) 1757 Levels as for Loch Beacravik Admiralty Leisure Folio Beacravik offers good shelter. Loch Gheocrab to 5616. 10A the east is not recommended and the following Directions Imray Chart directions are for Loch Beacravik only. Caolas Beag although only 27m wide at its C66 narrowest has a least depth of 3·7m. Bogha na Ordnance Survey Tides 14 h’Airde (dries 2·5m) lies at the NE side of the Const. –0035 Ullapool (–0455 Dover) Cruising Scotland entrance to the narrows. This rock, which p.192 Height in metres shows below half tide, is marked by a S MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS cardinal perch. In any event keep to the 4·8 3·8 2·8 2·0 0·7 Stockinish side at the entrance to the narrows. Directions If making for Poll Scrot pass east of the islet From the south note the drying rocks south in the narrows and leave the perch opposite the and east of Aird Mhanais (p.93) and keep 5 north end of the islet to starboard before cables off that point. A large stone fronted shed altering towards the pontoon jetty. at the head of Loch Beacravik is conspicuous On emerging from the narrows keep the and when this is in sight it is clear to alter channel open astern for 4 cables to clear Bo of 1 towards the entrance to Loch Beacravik. the Den, a rock with 1·8m over it which lies ⁄2 Approach the shed on a bearing of 330° to cable east of Am Moaladh, a prominent tidal clear the rocks south and west of Aird Mhor. island on the west side of the entrance to the Beyond Glas Sgeir, at the mouth of Loch inner loch. The inner loch is clear up to its head Gheocrab, a reef (dries 1·5m) partially blocks where Hard Rock (dries 1·8m) lies 1 cable east the entrance to that loch. In the entrance to of the point which divides the loch. Note Loch Beacravik rocks dry more than half of its particularly the rock drying 0·6m extending 1 width from the east side; keep a quarter of the cable SE from this point. width from the west side. Caolas Mor demands great care. From the From the east or NE head for Ard Manish south aim to pass between Dubh Sgeir Mhor, then Eilean Mhanais. It is important to note the which always shows, and Eilean nan Eun. The rocks (one of which dries 0·3m) 3 cables south of passage to the inner loch is best made within 1 Aird Mhor and also those rocks south of Dubh 2 ⁄2 hours of LW when the reefs which dry 2m Sgeir Mhor and Stockinish Island. A clearance will show. The main dangers are extensive reefs bearing of the south end of the in 1 cable east (dries 2m) and over 2 cables south sight south of Rubha Chluar leads south of all of (dries 3m) of Dubh Sgeir Mhor. Further in, a them. (If heading NE out of Loch Beacravik this rock awash west of Eilean Leasaid and an bearing is particularly useful). Once the shed extensive reef (dries 2m) 4 cables north of bears 330° head towards it as above. Dubh Sgeir Mhor must also be watched. To avoid these pass a cable west of Eilean Anchorage 1 nan Eun and associated islets then 1 ⁄2 cables Centre of the basin, off the jetty in 9m. Rocks west of Eilean Leasaid. With Eilean Leasaid extend off the burn on the west side and at the abeam head midway between Am Moaladh head of the basin. Within the loch there are and Reef Rock, leaving the reef (dries 2m) to shoal rocky patches which give poor holding port. After reaching Reef Rock make for the so that the anchor needs to be placed with care. NE shore in order to avoid Bo of the Den with Some fish cages are laid on the east side of the 1·8m over it. Hold this course until Caolas loch. Beag begins to open up when a turn may be Loch Gheocrab provides little shelter, apart made to port to enter the inner loch. from a pool at the head of the loch behind a drying reef, and is also obstructed by fish cages. Anchorage Poll Scrot. NW of Sgeir a Chaise in Caolas Loch Stockinish Beag in 4m. Very limited swinging room but there is a substantial pontoon with a depth of The outer part of Loch Stockinish between Aird 3m alongside Mhor and Stockinish Island, known as Caolas Mor, is rock encumbered and, with only Dubh Inner Loch Stockinish At the entrance to the Sgeir Mhor above water, requires great care in NW arm of the loch, 9m sand. Smaller yachts pilotage (see below). It is not recommended as or those with limited draft will find anchorage the principal approach channel to the inner within the arm but beware of a cable reaching loch. At LW or in a heavy sea the rocks in across midway up the NW arm of Loch Caolas Mor show or are marked by breakers. Stockinish at a height of 6m above sea level. NE of Stockinish Island, Caolas Beag provides Supplies a straightforward passage to the Inner Loch. Water and diesel (key card needed) by hose at Loch Chluar which lies immediately to the the pontoon in Pol Scrot. north of Loch Stockinish cannot be recommended as an anchorage.

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 95 Outer Hebrides

John Allan

Poll Scrot, Caolas Beag, Loch Stockinish (p.95)

Caolas Beag, Loch Stockinish from north (p.95)

Martin Lawrence

96 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 6. South Harris

Grosebay p.98 Sgeir a’Chais

(15) John Rock John Rk Aird Bhi (3) 10 Loch Rubha Bhocaig Grosebay Bogha Bhocaig 10 Loch (1.4) Bogha ille na’h Rubha Loch Uamha Phadruig Scadabay Aird Bheag Reibinish (15) Collam Sgeir na Nun Rock Glas h’lolla 10 En Dubh Sgeir (0.7) Challain

Caiream (22) 10

Eilean Dubh

Rubha Chluar 0 5 Cables (29) LOCH GROSEBAY

Loch Grosebay the direction of approach, the islands, islets and reefs off the SW shore of the loch, Eilean Admiralty Chart The main loch offers only moderately good 1757 shelter at its head and is exposed to easterly Dubh, Caiream, Glas Sgeir and Bogha ille Admiralty Leisure Folio winds but Loch Scadabay, an inlet on the north Phadruig (dries 1·5m) should all be left to port. 5616. 10A Imray Chart side, gives excellent all-round protection Nearing the head of the loch, tend to the west shore to clear John Rock (dries 3m) and Sgeir C66 Ordnance Survey Directions a’Chais with its rock (dries 1·5m) which 14 1 1 If coming from the north keep ⁄2 mile off the extends SW ⁄2 cable. Cruising Scotland p.192 Reibinish Peninsula to avoid Bogha Bhocaig Anchorage with 1·4m over it and Nun Rock with 0·7m over it, which lie 4 cables east and south North of Sgeir a’Chais in 9m. Not well sheltered. respectively of Rubha Bhocaig. On entry, keep Supplies 2 cables off the NE shore of Loch Grosebay to Garage and workshop for repairs at Grosebay clear Sgeir na h’Iolla at the south side of the ✆ village. (K. Maclennan, 01859 511253). Loch Grosebay from entrance to Loch Scadabay. Note that whatever Small slipway. the north

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 97 Outer Hebrides

Admiralty Chart Loch Scadabay 1757 This well hidden loch offers very good Admiralty Leisure Folio 5616. 10A protection and, although the entrance is Imray Chart narrow, it is not difficult to negotiate. It is a C66 little over 2 miles from Poll Scrot, Loch Ordnance Survey Stockinish to Loch Scadabay. 14 Cruising Scotland Tides p.192 Const. –0027 Ullapool (–0447 Dover) Height in metres Jetty MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS Scree 4·8 3·8 2·8 2·0 0·7 17 Eilean an Directions Duine

From the east and north keep at least 5 cables 5 off Rubha Bhocaig and the coast south of that headland to avoid Bogha Bhocaig with 1·4m Loch Scadabay over it, and Nun Rock with 0·6m over it. (see plan p.97) On altering westwards to acquire the narrow entrance to Loch Scadabay do not be 0 1 2 deceived by the first wide inlet, Loch na Cables h’Uamha. Continue keeping 2 cables off shore to avoid Sgeir na h’Iolla. The narrow entrance bears 016˚ will open up when Toddun (526m) north of 10 East Loch Tarbert bears 016°. From the south keep 3 cables off Rubha Ben Toddun Chluar and Eilean Dubh and then alter towards the entrance. If Toddun is not visible Sgeir na h’lolla then the SE side of Caiream in line astern with LOCH SCADABAY Rubha Chluar leads to the west side of the Anchorage outer entrance clear of rocks. Within the entrance keep mid-channel and In the centre of the pool clear of rocks on the pass west of Eilean an Duine through a narrow west side in 1·8m. Very soft mud. Yachts of cleft 30m wide with steep sides and a least deep draft sink in without listing. Note: Loch depth of 1·7m over a sandy bottom. Bear to na h’Uamh is unsuitable for anchorage but an starboard towards the stone jetty to avoid Admiralty survey shows no hidden dangers. drying rocks off a scree at the foot of the cliff Supplies on the port hand and follow the rocky point Tel. Water at houses. round to starboard to avoid drying rocks to Loch Scadabay from the south port which lie on the west side of the pool.

Martin Lawrence

98 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages