Choose your own Delhi adventure For over five years now, Time Out Delhi has brought you the best of what’s happening in town each fortnight, as well as enabled armchair exploration of city culture and cuisine. We hope our special cover story spurs you to action – starting with your fingers, which will have to do quite a bit of flipping through the following pages. Use this game-style guide as a primer for your day out; we know the real adventures happen when and where you least expect them. Go forth! All listings p99, unless otherwise mentioned.

START HERE

Good morning Dilli! Rise and shine and fill those buckets, because the municipal water isn’t going to be running through those taps all day. Do those downward dogs, gulp that chai and do whatever it takes to get yourself up and out of bed, because today is a big day. Where do you feel like heading off first? It’s your choice: r Marvelling at the morning sun’s rosy glow, you turn to page 66A. r The pre-dawn azaan from a nearby mosque inspires you to visit page 68A. r You’d prefer starting somewhere familiar, even cliché, like 70A. r A jog, a stretch and a good guffaw sounds like a good idea, at 72A. r You need to be eased into wakefulness by some calming kirtans, at 74A. r A quiet park with gentle wildlife is calling, from 76A. r Charmed by the birdsong outside your window, you head to 78A. sushantsinha

Coverstory Final 001.indd 65 8/25/2012 12:07:25 PM BestA) Flowers communications and fishes Best communicationsB) River run device There’sYou’d like nothing to deck like your a quiet halls glass thescrub famously consists filthy of a riceJama base Masjid You’re usually not susceptible who once lived along its banks ofwith red floral wine orbowers, a relaxing so you’re day at fishthat absorbsbazaar. theAround wine 4am poured daily, to the dubious charms of Delhi’s have been shunted to the city’s theoff to spa Ghazipur to calm Sabzi your nerves. Mandi, theinto trucks it and hintsroll in of with salt catfish and and neglected river, but from the margins. This is a good place Awhere combination the city’s of three the two oldest is a crabsmilk. Red in water wine tanks, apparently lobsters, has greenish strip of the Golden to bring a kite or a Frisbee – just matchflower mademarkets in heaven. (Mehrauli, Blue tuna,anti-ageing mackerel, properties kingfish, – not prawns Jubilee Park, it’s a pleasant don’t get too close to the water TerraBaba Spa’sKharag red Singh wine Marg scrub, and andthat hilsaI need on them ice. Theyet, seafoodbut the view across and upstream to – you really don’t want to fall in. meantFatehpuri) for dry shifted skin, recently. is a lush sellsanti-oxidants off fast (it’s left far my cheaper skin feeling out the old iron Yamuna Bridge, To get up close and personal, ThisThe market day spa’s may warm be far-flung, staff led here)flush –and there’s fresh. not Whether much left it wasby built by the British almost 150 travel a bit north to Qudsia Ghat, mebut tothe the prices “Bliss” are treatment wholesale thealcohol time absorption you arrive. or just the years ago. You could saunter where you can take an hour’s room,and you with can aquamarine pick from mari walls­ r Despite the fishy smell, your across (wait for a train to boat ride for about `200. goldand soothings, roses, daisies,music. After orc­h a­ids, appetite is whetted for a pass overhead) for a view of r Ask the boatman to let you lquickillies, foot carnations, soak in flower-laced chrysanth­ hearty breakfast at 68B. Salimgarh Fort, but you might off at one of the local jumbo emumswarm water, and more.my therapist If you’re gave up r Grease is the word, so you just want to stretch your legs points at 70C. forme a a more good pungentscrub with olfactory a pungent turn to 70B. in the park, pondering why we r What else did the British sensation,concoction divethat intoexuded Shaheed more of r That was enough advent­ don’t have a better relationship build before New Delhi? Find Ashfaqullaha winey scent Khan the stronger Fish Market she , uring, thanks. You think with the river and why the people out at 74B. createdrubbed. inThe 1999 fresh-mixed in the shadow (786 you’ll just head home, Amsterdamof a landfill Ave;as a replacement2341-2345) for to 76E. sushantsinha kaipapharokho D) Go green

You’re glad Green Park mountain of rice, a reservoir C) Sweets and silver Market’s eating options are of sambar, and a selection of so down to earth (literally; vegetables. The kesari halwa There’s only one proper way many-splendoured streets of most eateries here are is sinful, though local fave to prepare for an afternoon Old Delhi themselves. veg). You start with a filter Evergreen Sweet House has of shopping at Dariba Kalan: r It’s time to unwind a bit in the coffee at charmingly low-key plenty of dessert options too. you first genuflect at theOld quiet garden of 82A. Laxmi Vilas Madras Café, r Up to some aimless Famous Jalebi Wala (or Special r Your legs are properly frequented by struggling ambling? Head to 82D. Jaleba across the way). The stretched; amble or take a artists, then browse the r There’s a particular book crunchy-gooey tangled swirl cycle rickshaw towards a cup music and movie shops you’ve been looking for, of jalebi tranquilises you from of tea at 88A. before settling at Adyar search for it at 92D. thinking about the thousands r Catch the Metro instead, Ananda Bhavan (“A2B”) for r You’d rather watch other you’re about to blow on filigree from Chandni Chowk to 90A. the generous thali: a mini- people shop, at 84D. “Thailand se” jewellery. You waddle leisurely down the street, nodding approvingly at silverware, feeling like a fat patron from Shahjahan’s court. Swing by Bhagwan Das Khanna Jewellers, or Shri Kant Tiwari’s shop, thankful you remembered to withdraw cash, before stop­ ping for a fresh guava-and-rock salt from a cart. Turning into Kinari Bazaar, you promise yourself just one malai laddoo at Hazari Lal Jain, smiling at the thought that the glorious kinaris

manitbalmiki Adyar Ananda Bhavan sold here are not unlike the taveeshisingh

66 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 66 8/25/2012 12:10:52 PM A) The Turkman tour B) God’s own curries

En route from Turkman Gate, conflicting reports say she’s Everyone knows about the you find Kerala Restaurant, along Bazaar Sitaram, you buried in Haryana, where she Mallu eateries at INA Market; a family-run establishment catch a glimpse of a mosque, died in 1240. The two worn you prefer to get off the beaten on the first floor. Dig into a painted in gaudy blue, purple graves are supposedly Razia track – way off in fact – to Mayur carnivourous breakfast of turq­uo­ise and green to your left. and her sister’s. All this pre- Vihar Phase-III for your quota slightly chewy pothu and hot Up a steep flight of stairs is the Mughal sight-seeing has you of kappa, puttu, pothu and porottas, rohu curry and fluffy Kalan Masjid or “Big Mosque”, hungry, so you ask for Haji mutton fry. Quiet GD Colony white dosas. Happily, you’re built by Feroze Shah Tughlaq’s Qader Nihariwala, where the has several Malayali-owned here early enough for a share of prime minister Khan-i-Jehan superb nihari arrives garnished businesses, and a few Punjabi the pazhampori stash – just this Junan Shah in 1387. You wan­ with tangy, lemon-soaked chilly “mutt-chick” shops. Stop when and chai are a perfect start to der around the placid marble and ginger. Prefer biryani? Step you see the ladies in nighties the day. court­yard fountain (complete inside the dingy confines of Haji dishing out Mallu staples in r You’re stuffed and feeling… with goldfish), and are deligh­ Noor Mohammed Biryaniwale; Maria Restaurant’s pink room jumbo-sized. 70C. ted when the caretaker invites you’ll probably never want to eat on the main road. Or continue r The seafood has you dream- you up to the roof. You count meaty rice anywhere else. into the colony’s alleys until ing of a waterfront. 66B. the number of domes, before r You need more of a walk backtracking to Shah Turkman before nihari at 72C. Dargah, the grave complex r You’re a vegetarian. A very of Sufi saint Shams-ul-Arifin hungry one. 76B. (or “Dada Pir”), which gives r A classic hot Old Delhi brekky the area its name. Continuing is what you’d like. 78B. up the main road, you’ll pass r That was too much independ- Bulbul-i-khana, at the end of ent exploration; for more which is Razia Sultan’s tomb, structured site-seeing, turn or Rani-Saji ki dargah, though to 80B.

Kerala Restaurant

D) Greener pasture

Sunder Nursery is almost 100 flora and packets of seeds, years old. You tread between before stopping at their terracotta pots, peer in to the sleepy office to pay for bonsai houses and marvel at your wares.

anshik a varmaanshika Kalan Masjid the 70 acres of green at the r Flora is nice, what about heart of the city. The Aga Khan fauna? 82C. Foundation has been restoring r Enough nature – you’re ready the Mughal structures, inc­lud­ing for some shopping and the abutting Azimganj Serai, so snacking. 86C. C) Coffee with Khan the place looks livelier than its r So many plants! You’d like usual government-institution some meat for breakfast You peer into the window at self. You pick up some sea­sonal now. 80C. L’Opéra (see Food & Drink, p129) in Khan Market, con- templating a cappuccino and croissant, but carry on for a browse at Café Turtle. You sip a hot coffee, watching your indus- triously academic fellow patrons sipping lattes and sneakily read- ing Steve Jobs’ autobiography. Once you start getting sidey looks, shift to Market Café where you happily use the Wi-Fi for hours, on the strength of a single fruit juice. r Khan’s bookshops are a bit above budget; flip to 86C. r A little art would be more to

anshikavarma Café Turtle your liking, at 84B. sonalshah

68 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 68 8/25/2012 12:12:23 PM A) Central park B) Campus culture

Most people hit India Gate in jawans – they’re trained to tell Kamla Nagar may be located China – just as its “Momo lane” the evening for its heady mix of you a bit of the place’s history. on the periphery of Delhi houses Chinjabi joints like commerce, tradition and chaos, As the morning progresses, you University, but it’s still very much Ban Zai, Noo­dles and Momo’s but you’re part of a small but might take a boat ride along the the heart of the campus. You Point. We doubt you’re still vocal minority that swears by narrow canal, or find kite-flyers begin your tour at Chache Di peckish, but there are fantastic its sunrises. It’s quite a sight to do battle with. Hatti, possibly the city’s most dhoklas at Bombay Bhel seeing the first rays hit the war r Nothing like patriotism to get famous chhole-bhaturewala, House – and a little further, the memorial for martyred soldiers, the appetite flaring. Head to and wash it down with a double waffles at Korean Café AIM are and the lawns are as trash free more international surrounds chocolate milkshake from scrumptious. as they ever will be. Watch guys for breakfast at 76C. nearby Keventer’s (now called r Your stomach’s feeling a play cricket, or do your national r It’s desi breakfast all the way Shake Square, see p34). bit mutinous. Walk it off duty and chat up one of the at 82B. Kamla Nagar’s bylanes are well at 72B. stocked with fashion, knick- r You’d rather sit in a park and knacks and miscellanea from regroup at 74B.

adititailang Chache Di Hatti manitbalmiki

C) Gentle giants D) Phyllo-philia

There are proposals in the works advance. Down the Yamuna, at Mehar Chand Market is sleepy, tentwalas. Stop for supplies to banish Delhi’s elephants, so the ITO bridge, Tofik Ahmed’s but there’s more here than just at FabIndia, Soma, Nourish you go to pay your respects to ellys splash about in the tailoring shops and Café Coffee Organics and Cheese Ball, and the amiable tuskers at Wazira- murky waters. Day. You stop at Kunafa, the peek in at the CMYK Bookstore. bad or Laxmi Nagar. Great Fire r Elephants hold a special Syrian and Jordanian pastry r Visit an old school Works, run by Mehboob Ali, place in Buddhism. Find out shop, for a strong Arabic coffee destination that never has four elephants for “shaadi more at 96D. and a sweet array of baklava. changes. 82C. and party”, but visiting is free r There’s a haathi gate not too Wander and wonder at the r CMYK’s books are pretty, but (tips appreciated) – just call in far away, at 74B. upscale boutiques amidst the pricey. Flip to 86C.

manitbalmiki Kunafa

70 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 70 8/25/2012 12:13:59 PM A) Garden variety B) Stay uprised

Trammel the familiar terrain of Just west of Delhi University, the Kashmere Gate area Delhi’s best-known green lung, you find yourself walking on (See Around Town, p157). Lodhi Gardens stopping by the Rani Jhansi Road, when you’re r To explore more British dimi­nut­ive National Bonsai suddenly confronted with the architecture in these parts, Park. You’re distracted from High Victorian Gothic Mutiny head to 74B. Sikandar Lodhi’s tomb by the Memorial (Ajitgarh). Built in r You’d rather experience the site of contemporary power­ a medieval revival style in sweetness of Shahjahan’s brokers Jairam Ramesh, Anand 1863, this structure’s vertical Dilli at 66C. Sharma and Arun Jaitley passing lines add to the height of r Actually spices are more by. There are good Sam­aritans its vantage point. Are you the your thing; catch a cycle feeding strays; there’s even sort who makes advance rickshaw to 80A. a Jain man feeding ants. Call plans? Then you’ve signed r You’re a bit sweaty and the Bharatiya Yog Sansthan to up in advance for Delhi need to refresh. Take a see if you can find a free yoga Heritage Walks’s tour of cycle rickshaw to 74C. class, or get your exercise at a Laughter Club meeting. The rush of endorphins gives you a good feeling about the rest of the day. r There’s a croissant with your name on it at 68C. r Some strong coffee is in order at 70D. manitbalmiki

C) Morning meating

Nihari, the slow-cooked meat garnish, and khameeri rotis. porridge (made from beef or At Kallu Nihari, a large, cheap lamb shank, simm­ered over- helping of buff arrives piping night until it’s near-liquid) is one hot, head-explodingly spicy, in a dish Delhi can truly claim as glistening pool of oil. And at Haji its own. It’s said Shah Jah­an’s Shabrati Nihariwala’s old-timey D) Angrezi chai physician devised nihari as a eatery with wooden benches sinus-clearer and immu­nity- and ancient fans, the mildly booster against the waters of spiced nihari with moist pieces the Yamuna. Near Jama Masjid, of meat in a rich, garlicky gravy Karim Hotel has nalli nihari, certainly gets the blood flowing. made from the fatty bone mar- r Yum. Now you need dessert. row and thigh of the buffalo, and Walk to 66C. paya-nihari (trotter stew), but r You’re a bit spice-laden and you like Al-­Jawahar next-door: need to refresh at 74C. creamy, tender mutton nihari r Bring on the spice! And the with a ginger-and-green chilli shopping! 80A. sushantsinha

You step into quaint Elma’s an hour, and are rewarded tea house (See Food & Drink, with bacon, sausages, eggs, p126) to satisfy a craving toast, baked beans and grilled for English breakfast, only vegetables. to discover the restaurant is r Up for some plebeian occupied by others who woke people-watching in the up before you with the same neighbourhood? 84D. idea. Ignoring the rumbling of r A little literature might help

abhinanditamathur(3) Al-Jawahar your stomach, you wait half digestion at 92D.

72 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 72 8/25/2012 12:15:08 PM A) Peace out B) Ways of the Raj

More than just a governmental Far from the bustle of busy Stepping into Civil Lines, you and cultural hotspot, Lodhi streets, you wander the plush walk the lanes with joint-family Road can be a spiritual trip as green lawns, admiring the homes tucked behind low well, with the Humayun’s Tomb polished marble inlay work and walls to quiet Qudsia Bagh, complex at its apex. Wending deciding to come back for the past the ruins of a haathi gate, down the lovely, winding simple langar some other day. the Masonic Club, and the Bharat Scouts and Guides r Spiritually-nourished, set off mosque, built in 1748 by the Marg, you find Gurudwara for a garden walk at 68D. begum for whom the park is Damdama Sahib, built in 1707 r Pay a visit to a monument named. Across Shamnath Marg to commemorate the meeting that’s an old friend, 76D. is Nicholson Cemetery (see between the Guru Gobind Singh r Discover another quiet rel­ Around Town, p162), a “who’s and Emperor Bahadur Shah. igious spot nearby at 86D. who” of Delhi from the late- 19th century. Imagining that you hear footsteps behind you, you remember this graveyard is haunted by John Nicholson’s ghost, and vamoose it to the classic imported dry goods

Exchange Store near the Metro manitbalmiki (2) Qudsia Bagh station for a restorative ice cream on the bench outside. r You need something much Need something stronger? stronger, like the chhang Step into Embassy Rest­aurant available at 96D. (a branch of the CP original) in r You decide to visit another of the same building for a beer. Qudsia Begum’s buildings at (There’s also a Mocha here.) 82A.

D) Southern comfort anshika(2)varma

You’ve spent many afternoons Café. You next order the soft at Sagar Ratna, being speedily and crispy Malleshwaram served dosa after dosa, but 18th Cross dosa, finishing it’s time for a change. Since up with frothy filter coffee and C) Attar boys your travels have brought you the realisation that you’ll never to the New Friends Colony eat shawarma here again. You plod the main drag of perfumes on display. What’s the Community Centre, you forego r That meal was a deal. Find Chan­dni Chowk, dodging shop difference between musk rose, the customary shawarma for some sartorial bargains boys wielding sequinned saris tea rose, rosewood, fasli gulab, a vegetarian meal of rawa idlis at 84C. and men carrying freight twice shahi gulab, and ruh gulab doused in splendid drumstick- r If cheap books are your thing, their height on their shoulders. (`10,000 per 10ml)? Kishen filled sambhar, at Carnatic head to 86C. You stop in at Gulabsingh Mohan Singh and the other Johrimal for some respite, descendents and attendants pretending you’re interested of this nearly 200-year-old shop in the hundreds of oils and (the original HQ is in Dariba Kalan) will be happy to tell you. Step out, your arms slathered with oils, and carry on, stopping only to pick up plump, ghee- saturated sohan halwa from Ghantewala, another Chandni Chowk old-timer, which has been around since 1790. r You need to sit in a medi­ tative garden, removed from all this consumer madness at 82A. r Your legs are properly stretched; stroll or take a cycle rickshaw towards a cup of tea at 88A. r Feeling claustrophobic, you catch the Metro to 90A.

74 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 74 8/25/2012 12:46:01 PM A) Deer beloved B) Stuff it

Start your day at Delhi’s Yes, it’s Delhi’s most overhyped sweetest-smelling Rose Gar- food street, but you find yourself den at Deer Park, where green wandering to Parathewali Gali lawns, dense tree cover and a anyway. If you’re not into the variety of roses flourish where, greasebombs (with over 30 until 1974, there was a wheat kinds of fillings) served up by and vegetable farm. Pairs of Messrs. Pandit Babu Ram Devi young adults are always in Dayal, Pandit Kanhaiya Lal plenty – if you’re looking for a Durga Prasad Dixit or Pandit secluded spot of your own, it Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan, it might take some finding. And if might be the rabri that catches flora doesn’t do it for you, go see your eye (it takes four kilos of the fawns. The Deer Park, a kilo- milk to make one kilo of the metre walk away, houses about stuff). A lighter sweet is the 200 deer. You might glimpse the Dilli favourite, daulat ki chaat: cheetal or some rabbits, ducks sweetened milk foam, whipped and the odd peacock. to soft near-solidity, and topped At Parathewali gali r Time for tea? Breakfast with kesar, brown sugar, pista at 72D. and varq. Urban legend has r For more “green” cover, turn it that can only be made by paneer paratha and a vista of to 66D. dhrubadutta moonlight, when the late night the Town Hall. dew condenses. If a view is r Yum! Dessert time at 66C. your cup of tea, head instead r Feeling a little spice-laden, to sample Asha Ram ke refresh yourself at 74C. parathe at Nirmal r Bring on the spices, and the C) Get high E) GAME OVER Restaurant, for a shopping, at 80A. You’re lost. Did you take a wrong turn Up above the homicidal with a view of the somewhere? Are you rickshaws, touts and cow-struck dilapidated Qazi even in Delhi anymore? hippies is the best place to be Wali Masjid. Congratulations! You are a true urban adventurer. in Paharganj, so up you go, to r The sun’s getting Now, the challenge of D) Dome deal one of the area’s many rooftop hot, and you’d getting home. After hours cafes. There’s Sam’s Café with like to get inside, searching for an auto, You’ve been time; a haamam (or bath house) then paying `200, here before, and a barber’s tomb. With kites its apple crumble, or a stack somewhere cool and head to 99A. of pancakes at almost-classy calming, like 84B. but Humayun’s wheeling overhead and the river Hotel Metropolis (established r Hot, what? You’re out Tomb (see Around in the background, you feel 1928). Avoiding the chocolate on an adventure! Hail a Town, p161) never fails to reconnected to the city. Come banana dosa at street-level cycle rickshaw and ask impress. Setting aside the back during late winter for the Sonu Restaurant, you settle for the scenic route second Mughal emporer’s Sufi Jahan-e-Khusrau festival. r on Fire and Ice’s green rooftop to 80A. resting place this time, you Hunger pangs: nothing but walk the symmetrical paths and the heartiest qorma will do explore the lesser build­ings, like at 80D. the Afsarwala tomb and mosque r This early rising makes you in honour of an officer whose want a virtuous breakfast. name is now lost to the mists of Cruise Mathura Road to 74D. adititaialng(3)

76 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 76 8/25/2012 12:17:08 PM A) Twitter followers B) Puri joy

When you first visit Okhla you know what to look out for. Every nook and cranny in Old Or head to straight to Mohan Bird Sanctuary it’s a bit dis­ Luckily September to March Delhi has a so-called famous Ram’s little shop with spicy appointing. You dragged your­ is the best time to visit for winter unmarked bedmi puri vendor. aloo gravy, crisp bedmis and self out of bed with an expensive migratory birds like Greylag You probably have your own a special bedmi ki chutney pair of binoculars, and there goose, Great cormorants, special favourite. But a good that is generously sprinkled isn’t even a heron in site, nor Rosy pipits and the White, place to start is Shyam Sweets, on the sabzi. a warbler within earshot – just Citrine and Yellow wagtails. wedged between the wedding r A breakfast this good that oppressive whine of high If you’d rather go birdwatching card and hardware shops in deserves dessert at 66C. tension wires? Still, patience in a flock, hook up with the Delhi Chawri Bazaar, where you’ll r Feeling slightly spice-laden, (and prior research) is a virtue. Bird group. get puris and kachoris served go refresh yourself at 74C. Scan twitcher Anand Arya’s web­ r Feeling peckish? 74D. with piping hot aloo sabzi and r Bring on the spices, and the site dedicated to the park (www. r More interested in a soaring a chilled glass of lassi for `20. shopping! 80A. anandarya.com/obp.html) so view? 86A.

sushantsinha E) GAME OVER Ooh, bad choice. You’re stuck in that never-ending conversation, fuelled by cheap coffee and club dhrubadutta sandwiches. When the sun sets, head to 99A. D) Choo through Boarding the counter-clockwise one of Delhi’s most useless 9.15am Delhi Rail Parikrama infrastructure projects, but it’s C) These walls can talk at Hazrat Nizamuddin Station, one you’re glad still exists. you take your pick of empty r End up almost where you The craggy ruins of Purana r Your appetite for song and carriage’s window seats. The started? No way! Hop off at a Qila (see Around Town, p162) dance awakened, you head railroad was laid in 1975, then station you’ve never heard of welcome you with myriad to 88B. upgraded for the 1982 Asian before and turn to 76E. activities, from boating in the r Impressed by the extra­­vag­ Games. It got a minor facelift r A little shopping seems a moat to taking a tour of Delhi’s ance of the show, you before the Commonwealth good idea, so you get off longest-inhabited site (some decide to splash out for din­ Games as well. Setting at 84C. say it’s where Indraprastha ner at 94E. commuter efficacy aside, r Just before Nizamuddin, you once stood). Check out the Sher there’s really no better way to decide to hop off at 86C. Mandal, Humayun’s library, from see the city, as you chug along which he tripped and fell to his the Ring Road, past Humayun’s death. You’re in luck if you’ve Tomb, Shanti Stupa, the timed your visit to coincide with ziggurats of Pragati Maidan, the 50-minute son-et-lumière Tilak and Minto Bridges, New show Ishq-E-Dilli (The Love of Delhi Station and Sadar Bazaar, Delhi), which narrates the rise, through almost rustic stations fall and renovation of our historic like Kishanganj, along the cities with song, video and multi­ Ridge, down to Chanakyapuri coloured lasers. Qawwali remix­ (you might choose to jump off es – “Chaap Tilak” and “Khwaja for a visit to the Rail Museum, Ji” –by Bollywood singers see Around Town p164) and Kailash Kher and Rekha Bharad­ Safdarjung, be­fore swinging waj, provide the soundtrack. back around via Lajpat Nagar r History’s fun. Gas­tro­nomy’s to Nizamuddin – all in under paromamukherjee even more fun. Head to 98C. ahujashiv two hours. This might be

78 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 78 8/25/2012 12:17:51 PM A) Say sneeze B) Freewheeling

“I will resist the urge to take r A nice place to sit would be You agree that the only way to the Lutyens’ bungalows on the hipstergram pictures of spice just the thing. Take a cycle see the world is on two wheels Raj trail and dodge the human mounds and GB Road brothels, rickshaw to 82A. – just not the motorised kind. and bovine traffic on the Shah- and immediately upload them r Your legs can’t take any When it’s too strenuous to jahan trip. And there’s a meal on Facebook,” you repeat to more, so you decide to take walk, sign yourself up for a included at the end to account yourself before visiting Khari a longish cycle rickshaw ride DelhiByCycle tour. Run by the for the calories lost. Baoli. But your resolve starts towards a cup of tea at 88A. flying Dutchman Jack Leenars, r You’ll be too tired by the end to waver when confronted by r You’re feeling a bit claus­ a former South Asia correspond- of a DelhiByCycle tour to do that fiery pile of red chillies, at tro­phobic, so you catch the ent for the Dutch daily De anything else. Give yourself Asia’s largest spice market. Metro to 90A. Telegraaf, DelhiByCycle runs a pat on the back for efficient Passing fragrant heaps of Nizamuddin, Shahjahan, “Raj” adventuring. But maybe star anise and cinnamon, you and Yamuna tours. You’ll roll tom­orrow you want to try buy the kamarkas gond (an past the Inayat Khan dargah on and get a little lost? Start edible resin), for which you had the Nizamuddin tour, marvel at again at 65. originally made the trek here. Summer’s almost gone, but you could still get a heat-stroke, so you swing by Harnarain Gokalchand to stock up on bel and gulkand concentrate. There’s also the bottles of khus (vetiver), amla, kewra and chandan sharbat adding pop colours to the dusty shelves. Maybe it’s time to upload those

sushantsinha Harnarain Gokalchand pictures now.

C) Nice pudding

Nizamuddin basti has no short- The powdered rice and bits of age of excellent, reasonably- cashew add texture without priced eateries, but Nasir Iqbal overpowering the phirni. The Restaurant has our vote. Their serving is gone before you know sheermal – round, layered, it, but the memory of this creamy almond-coloured bread made calorie-bomb will last until long with flour, eggs, milk, crushed after the last silken spoonful. dry fruit and ghee – is almost r If lazy shopping in the sun D) Seafood, snacks, supplies good enough to eat on its own, sounds good, turn to 82D. but we suggest pairing it with r Shopping in the sun, yes! You plonk yourself down a stool their delicately spiced mutton But only if it comes with bar- at Kerala Hotel in INA Market qorma. Their great triumph, gains. 84C. for a hot cup of milky tea. The however, is the phirni. This cool r Forget shopping, you’d rather orange pazhampori in the glass pudding is a result of milk that is take a relaxed tour of the city case and the deep-fried sweet slow-cooked until it condenses. – so head to 78D. bondas are too tempting; you succumb to these, but manage to resist the spicy warm scent of pothu fry, garnished with onion shreds, and the fried crab dishes. Walk off your snack with a stroll through INA’s intestinal lanes – pick up that tube of was- abi you’ve been meaning to get, and goggle at fresh octopus and many edible imported oddities.

r You’re ready for to imbibe anshikavarma some culture, and the centres of Lodhi Road aren’t r You’ve got the wasabi you too far away. Turn to our Art, came for, but where can you Dance, Music, Film and find peri-peri? 88D. Theatre pages listings on r You’d rather calm the sea in things to do today – at your stomach with a pint of shiv ahujashiv Habitat, IIC, and beyond. beer at 94D.

80 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 80 8/25/2012 12:19:54 PM A) Mosque appeal B) West side story

All this adventuring has you Red Fort’s main ramparts, and Hankering for a South Indian fingers, you head out for some exhausted. Take a breather exposed warm yellow stone. break­fast, you head out to sari shopping, stopping by at the charming little Sunehri The domes were originally Amara­vathi, located at the Zohra’s, Ushnak Mal’s original Masjid (next to the Red Fort plated with copper, which was heart of Punjabi Delhi in Karol showroom and Perfection – parking). There are other Sun­ replaced with sandstone by Bagh, for one of the best dosas but the prices are prohibitive. ehri Masjids in Delhi, but this Bahadur Shah II. You sit in the city has to offer. Amaravathi In contrast, nearby Ghaffar one was built in 1751 by Qudsia the tree-filled garden (it can also has breakfast specials, Market has nothing but bargains Begum (of Qudsia Bagh fame), get rather crowded on Fridays including green moong rava – mostly of the electronic, a former dancing girl who was though), and pay your respects dosa and masala vada. If you’d second-hand type. the third wife of Mohammad to the small mazhar behind prefer a meal more in keeping r Saris, saris and more Shah Rangila. This mosque – the mosque. with your surrounds, head to saris! You want to blast which survived 1857 while the r You’re ready to eat again, but the local culinary one-stop, the next gota you see. So larger Akbarabadi Masjid next just a snack, so you catch a Ajmal Khan Road. At the Pakore head to 92B. to Jama Masjid did not – has rickshaw to 90B. Ki Dukaan, you choose onion r Beat a retreat from street elegant details, like an entry r Your tastes at the moment flower pakora, whose crust kitsch to the staid halls gateway that is reminiscent of run more towards cultural peels off to reveal an entire of 84B. a miniaturised version of the activities at 92A. onion sliced to resemble a half-opened flower. One bite of Special Chaat Bhandar’s bhalla papri chaat tells you why the shop’s been around 40 years. Finish off with dessert at the legendary Roshan Di Kulfiand pick up some almond biscotti (`210 for a box) from Anjlika Pastry Shop for later (LK Advani, Atal Behari Vajpeyi and Pratibha Patil are among E) GAME OVER the shop’s patrons). In the park with your Wiping the oil off your brown bag of booze, you’re surprised by an unusually anshika(2)varma vigilant policeman. Spend the night in jail, then head to 99A. D) I haat shopping

C) Wild things Are you here to soak in a bit of thatched roof stalls that sell culture, try some regional delica­ handicrafts and ethnic wares. Welcome to the Delhi Zoo. If you may drag your little monkeys cies, or just pick up some hand­ But think twice before buying you are below age 12, you’ll away from the big cat and to see crafted paraphernalia for your that Rajasthani bird wind chime, be gawking and make throaty the pair of the rare Hoolock gib­ pad? Your intentions barely mat­ or that terracotta vase, because no­ises at the majestic white bons (Hoolock hoolock), India’s ter, as you’re bound to do it all the return policy is shaky here. tiger, ind­is­putably the most pop­ only ape. at Dilli Haat. For foodies, there If you happen to come visit here r ular attraction here. If you’re one Ah, nature. You head off is maas tenga with rice at the after Sun Sept 9, you’ll be able half of an adolescent couple, to enjoy some more of the Assam Tourism stall, Odisha’s to celebrate Ganesh Chathurthi there are plenty of thorny bush­ outdoors at 78C. cheena tarkari (fried cottage at special stalls. r es and large trees to hide behind Ugh, nature. You decide to cheese balls in gravy) at Dalma, r Buyer’s remorse? Kill it with and follow your animal instincts. go crash a sophisticated do. and the truck-driver menu of dal, more shopping at 84C. The more mature visitors among 94B. chaaval, shahi paneer and but­ r Momos too dodgy? Head ter chicken at the Punjabi dhaba, instead to 98C. Mahak. Top it off with mishti-doi r You like all things artisanal – at Bijoli Grill. After a heavy meal, and microbrews top that list. you take a brisk walk past the 94C. adititailang(2)

82 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 82 8/25/2012 12:21:28 PM A) Circle this B) Art house

With some time to kill, there’s Take a walk toward Shankar The fact that most of the gates (See Art, p168). You stop by the no cuter place to sit and linger Market via Fire Brigade Lane, leading to the National Gallery museum shop before leaving, to over a cuppa than Nathu’s stopping at the stall adjacent to of Modern Art (see Art, p172) pick up a nice print of a famous Pastry Shop. The surprisingly the defunct Campa Cola Factory are closed irritates you at first, works of art from the NGMA or decent coffee has you paying for a refreshing bottle of that but you carry on undeterred Lalit Kala Akademi. There are the pastry counter multiple Delhi classic. Or, in the opposite through the gate close to classic paintings by Nicholas visits (for an éclair, a lemon direction, catch a view at the the India Gate-Shershah Roerich, Raja Ravi Verma and tart and a pineapple pastry) or Maharaja Ranjeet Singh Road Road junction. Walk across Jamini Roy, besides mugs, maybe the vitrine stuffed with flyover before delving into the manicured lawns, littered with T-shirts and books. savouries: patties, twists and hidden world of Mir Dard Lane, sculptures, to the new wing to r Portraiture is all very well, more. Bengali Market’s not bad with its cheap buff kebabs, fried get your ticket to the permanent but you want to do some real for a plate of chaat at Nathu’s chicken and the tomb of Khwaja collection of modern Indian art. people-watching at 90A. or Bengali Sweets, or a masala Mir Dard, who died in 1785. Stop for awhile at Amrita Sher- r It seems you’re always Coke at paanwala Gulzari Lal r You’re thirsty for some Gil’s striking portrait paintings hungry. So turn to 86B. and Sons and chhole kulche entertainment. Head to 88B. and nudes (including “Two Girls” at Shripal Parajpat’s stall. Up r You’re dehydrated. It’s time and “Reclining Nude” from her for a little more of a wander? to hit the happy hours at 96A. Parisian days, to “Bride’s Toilet” and “Camels”, done when she returned to India). This might be your only chance to get up-close to some artists who’re always in the news for breaking auction records: don’t miss MF Husain’s “Zamin”, Tyeb Mehta’s “Untitled (Santiniketan Triptych)” and Subodh Gupta’s quirky “Three Cows”. For something more contemporary, head to the travelling Cinema City exhibition paromamukherjee abhinanditamathur D) Electronic slide

Emerging from the air- the Gujarat Fisheries and C) Stalled state conditioned comfort of the National Federation of Green Park Metro station into Fisheries outlets behind. r The sorry state of your wardrobe has all the listings. Peruse the din of the Yusuf Sarai market The only thing Yusuf Sarai (and your wallet) now and then our Art, Dance, Film, Music crossing, you head towards the doesn’t have is a good book- drives you to Sarojini Nagar and Theatre for things to do. row of showrooms behind you store. So you head to 90C. r Market. There are two types of r You’ve found that perfect for some random retail therapy. Prefer your shopping a little shoppers here – the novices, party dress, or shirt, which There is plenty on offer, but we less hectic, a little more who rush to fancy shops like reminds you that you need always like to visit the several- ethnic? 82D. Incense and Big C to fill up their some supplies for that din- generations-old Arun Watch plastic bags. You’re an old hand ner you’re hosting this week. Company for watches and though, so you head to the Luckily, right around the mobiles, and Pankaj Electronics stalls, where you can bargain to corner is 80D. for bigger electric goods. If you bring down prices. If you’re not need to sit down for a bit, walk sure of the best spots, here’s a past the Indian Oil building, tip: trail the American and Brit- and climb up the stairs into ish school girls – they’re perpet- the spic and span Karnataka ually hanging about, and know Restaurant. Or you could try their way around a surplus shop. your luck at the Guru Sikh Sanga Suddenly, the police, or the MCD South Delhi gurudwara’s langar officials swoop in, and the shop­ across the road. Take a detour keepers are rushing to bundle to the DDA Community Centre up their piles. And so you’re off market to stock up your larder to your next destination. with Bengali delicacies such r The Lodhi Road cultural as taad sandesh, roso kada­ hotspot comprising Habitat mbo and mishti doi from the Centre, IIC, the India Islamic perpetually crowded Annapurna Sweets, or fresh pork chops Centre and other venues National Federation of Fisheries isn’t far. Good thing Time Out dhrubadutta from Khubchand, and fish from

84 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 84 8/25/2012 12:25:29 PM A) Great fortitude B) Public service

The fortress city of Tughlaq­abad figure out exactly where the In an alley between Shahjahan trees above. You only want to (See Around Town, p163), on kidnapping scenes at the end Road and Mansingh Road, you taste one item, so you go for the the busy Mehrauli-Badarpur of Chashme Buddoor were shot. come across Prabhu Chaat golguppas, which are flavourful road, was built in the 1320s by Down the road, is Adilabad Bhandar, otherwise known as and have amazingly crisp shells. Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq. It feels Fort, built by Ghiyasuddin’s the UPSC chaatwala. Prabhu’s If you don’t have the stomach a little haunted to you. For a son, Mohammed bin Tughlaq is one of the oldest and most for spices, they’ll tone it down. paltry sum, you let a guide in the early 14th century. It’s famous chaat stalls in New Anyway, the spice is the perfect point you to such wonders as less storied than Tughlaqabad, Delhi, having been around for excuse to grab a kulfi falooda or an intact underground bazaar but a recent refurbishing by 70-odd years. You spot the loyal a Rooh Afza-spiked kullar lassi and a 60-foot-deep reservoir. the Archaeological Survey of clientele arriving en masse from (thick enough to be mishti doi) If you’re an animal lover, pay a India (neat lawns, enthusiastic the surrounding government from Bunty Singh’s stall. visit to Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq’s signage) makes it a great venue offices for lunch, tea or after- r Take a walk and do some tomb complex, which contains for a scenic picnic. work snacks. Families on out- people-watching at 90A. a small, unmarked grave, r For a Middle Eastern ings queue up by the smoking r You’re belly’s fired up for supposedly with one of the breakfast nearby, turn to 92C. aloo tikki tawa, dogs slumber some conversation and ruler’s pet dogs. Then you r Or would you rather stick to in the dusty lane and hopeful coffee. Tell a friend to meet ditch the guide and try to Mughlai? Turn to 90D. rhesus monkeys swing on the you at 88C.

dhrubadutta Tughlaqabad Fort

C) Books and bling

Lajpat Nagar is a many- restaurants in the vicinity too; manitbalmiki splendoured market, but your E Block’s shifting constellation first stop is Anjali International, currently includes Afghan a second-hand bookstore with Durbar and Mazaar. lots of fun coffee table dressing r You’d love a glass of wine, and old magazines. Can’t find but you’re a little broke. D) Resting place the exact title you need? Try the Head to 94B. r Adventuring is fun, but air- “granary” of books, Pages, on If the crowds and the slime conditioning is funner. the other side of Central Market. underfoot put you off from Head to 98D. If you fall into the brocade- visiting the Nizamuddin dargah r Afghan’s not really your hunt­ing, hard-bargaining, on Thursdays for qawwali, all you scene, but African is. 88D. tailor-lov­ing aunty category, have to do is walk to the other r You just want to go to a bar then Lajpat Nagar’s your baby side of Nizamuddin basti to the where everybody knows your and we don’t need to tell you modern Dargah Hazrat Inayat name, so you head to 94D. where to go. But if you’ve been Khan (see Around Town p161). pushed around, had your toes For now, there’s utter silence trampled and been cornered within the sturdy whitewashed into buying a cock­roach walls, but on Friday evenings killing device, stop, take a you’d be greeted by the soulful deep breath, and inhale a bread singing of the qawwals. Sit on pakoda at Vinod Snacks. Less the floor of the marbled mazhar hectic than the market, but no of Inayat Khan, read his sayings less colourful, is Madhu and inscribed on one wall and

SR Wadhwa’s costume shop, admire the beautiful lattice- adititailang Abhiruchi, which has every work jaalis, through which the fancy dress, from a Sheila sunlight filters in. r All this early rising has you Dikshit sari to a Commonwealth r It’s time for breakfast. feeling virtuous. Cruise Games balloon. There’s an Nothing but the heartiest down Mathura Road for a Anjali International over-abundance of Afghan qorma will do. 80C. vegetarian breakfast at 74D.

86 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 86 8/25/2012 12:26:31 PM A) As you like it B) Culture vulture

The Daryaganj haunts are no the road. You rush to Mandi House, with a throng of others. As you secret; from foreign Presidents, r It’s been a long day, but but tickets for the play every­ walk out, you run into some travelling bloggers to local you’d like to squeeze in one’s been raving about have acquaintances who invite you to students, everyone’s made a some culture before calling already sold out (check out our a post-play soirée. visit here. Start with a little tea- it a night. Turn to 92A. Theatre section to avoid this r You’re too exhausted and so tasting at Aap Ki Pasand, where r Thugs wasn’t quite your sort of thing). Reward yourself you head to 99A. you can also buy Bill Clinton’s flavour, so head off for a for your effort with a fruit chaat r Sure, why not? You pile into much recommended Earl Grey drink at 96A. outside Shriram Bharatiya someone’s ride and head, in green tea. Another classic is Kala Kendra and return to try a phalanx of cars, to 96B. the ginger-laden brain curry at your luck in a few minutes. You r You’d rather keep it local, but Moti Mahal. You might head might miss the early part of the don’t want to call it a night instead to Shah Music Centre performance, but at least you’ve yet. Head to 96A. to look for a rare LP, nibble on managed to squeeze in. After giant samosas as you watch the the play’s over you’re starving latest Bollywood blockbuster in and even the mediocre chilli the retro Delite Cinema, or down chicken and hakka noodles at a beer at Thugs, the pub at Hotel the quarter-century old orange Broadway. But be wary of the Turant food van opposite FICCI dicey men with their three-day tastes good. If, in fact, you did stubbles; getting into a bar brawl arrive early, you head to the here is sure to take you to the Shri Ram Centre Café for some local thana, a much less inviting melt-in-the-mouth cheese-toast place to end this portion of the and chai; or if you’re hungrier,

anshikavarma Daryaganj book bazaar trip than Prince Paan down chowmein and nimbu pani. As soon as the bell goes off, you Triveni Kala Sangam rush to catch your seat along abhinanditamahtur

C) El cheapo

It’s that time of the month – that is biannually rumoured D) Out of Africa the lull before payday that to shut down because of There’s more to African cuisine comes garnished with caramel- forces you to seek low-rent soaring rents. You can’t ponder than peri-peri sauce, or so ised plantains. You chug some “branded” clothes… and long, for the loquacious gents you’ve been told, and you’re cold beer, but leave room in your coffee. You head to Mohan on the next table are clamouring keen to try out more. Your next stomach for The French Affair, Singh Place, suppressing that to know your opinion on destination therefore, is Kavia’s a sweet little patisserie-café wave of coll­ege nostalgia, when Mamata Banerjee. Kitchen in Chhattarpur. It’s a down the road. Treat yourself to this was all you could actually r You decide to entertain sweet little place, part-commu- a warm little waffle, served with afford. You tarry; should you them, and turn your chair nity centre and part-eatery, with blobs of fresh cream. The foamy settle for the standard Levi’s, around, to 78E. a covered terrace area, a bar, cap­pucino, served with a piece or wait a day for the Cal­vin r Yikes! Jump up and get gone. and a small stage for musical of chocolate, is the perfect way Klein label that the tailor is The company of other people acts. The menu is extensive: to top it all off. promising? You carry your seems a bit much, so you there’s North Indian, Bengali, r You need to wash down questions upstairs to the seek out some creatures Thai and Chinese, but this is your dinner with something Indian Coffee House, where who can’t talk back at 82C. your day to experiment, so you stronger, at 98D. over a plate of mutton dosa r You politely demur, and say order the dry-fried tilapia dish: r You want beer, so you head and filter coffee, you ponder that you have plans. And you the flaky, fresh, finely-spiced fish past the border to 94C. the fate of this venerated eatery do, at nearby 92A.

manitbalmiki adititailang The French Affair

88 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 88 8/25/2012 12:28:07 PM A) Doing the rounds B) It’s a gol

brave the long queues for a You fondly remember the with a soothing saffron lassi. chicken patty, a shammi kebab mornings you were dragged for You mourn the loss of Galina, and a chocolate jap. Sadly, their assembly-line “painting” and proudly situated, until two years sandwiches are all sold out. You “drama” workshops at Bal Bha- ago, at the Gole of the market. sit outside A Block, watching van or the British Council during But now you’re facing the great the hawkers sell Dennis the summer vacations – mostly Gole Market Hobson’s choice: Menace posters and bangles because they nearly always Kaleva’s legendary mango kulfi? and surveying the Inner Circle ended with a feast at one of Gole Or to Bangla Sweet House, for buzz. Then you slowly make your Market’s venerable establish- a multicoloured softy from a way to Central Park and sit on a ments. You start with gobhi dispensing machine, the billowy gently sloping hillock, watching samosas at Delhi Sweet House, summation of your childhood in two students surreptitiously which whets your appetite for a cone? play tug of war with a soda bottle a full-fledged snackathon at r You wonder what’s going in a brown paper bag. Browse Kaleva. With great sang-froid, on at the British Council in some of the classic shops: you forego the paapri-chaat and now. On to 92A. trophies at Whorra Sons, toys at the idli-dhokla that wink at you r All these snacks are a fine Ram Chander Sons, then decide from under a net veil, and roll up lining for the impending a hot beverage could go down your sleeves to tackle the gatte alcohol consumption that

sushantsinha well. And so it’s off to United ki sabzi and puri, washed down awaits you at 96A. Coffee House, for tea and The talks to revamp and clean a throwback to the days of up Connaught Place have been the Raj. going on for years, but you like r You like the kona coffee at the place as it is, with its old, UCH, but it’s grand room

grimy feel, occasionally masked is a little intimidating, by a fresh coat of paint. And so, so head instead to E) GAME OVER

after walking through Palika 84A. Time’s up! You paromamukherjee r missed the last Metro Bazaar where you finally find Enough flan­ back to civilisation. Your that DVD of the last season of euring; you’re only option is to call a Battlestar Galactica, you decide ready to join the cab (see Nightlife, p220), then head to to people-watch. This being a world of pleasure- 99A. Or wait ’til strenuous activity, you must seekers yourself. morning. absolutely stock up on some 96A. protein first. Which is why you r A little mental stimu­lation Delhi Sweets head to Wenger’s, where you could go a longer way. 92A.

D) Gathering steam C) Market watch Ramzan may be over, but don’t r Ready for some bargains You step into the unassuming nostalgia to stomach a greasy expect Purani Dilli Restaurant and bling? Turn to 86C. beige-coloured Aurobindo burger and fries. If you’re more to be significantly less crowded r You don’t mind the occ­ Place Market, knowing health-inclined, the tiny Himjoli if you’re planning a visit. Work asional wander down an exactly what you want –most store stocks up on organic up an appetite, navigate the alleyway, but you need some people who visit this market produce from the Kumaon narrow Zakir Nagar lanes air-conditioned retail therapy usually do. If you have literary hills, and has a stall selling and enter the unpretentious now at 98D. inclinations, well-stocked fresh organic vegetables and mid-size eatery. Mohammed Midland should please your herbs during the weekends. Hannan’s restaurant is perhaps inner bookworm. You browse As evening falls and you drive best known for its haleem, and through the international out, the bright neon sign and your visit to this neighbourhood magazines outside, then make live music emanating from simply won’t be complete with­ your way through the throng of Manajsa (see Nightlife, p210) out sampling their version of people outside the Quality Dairy beckon you to spend a couple of this thickened curry, made Paneer Bhandar for a bottle of hours – there’s karaoke and free with mutton, dal, wheat and refreshing almond milk. At the drinks for ladies if it’s a Thursday vegetables. Purani Dilli also Chaat Corner, you avert your – before carrying on. does a mean mutton nihari, eyes from the duo under the r Watching the sun go their fried surmai is great for a umbrella dishing out aloo tikkis down at a monument snack, and the chicken chan­ and golgappas. If you grew up seems more appealing gezi (chicken griddle-fried with in Delhi, the sight of Wimpy’s than karaoke. 96C. ginger-garlic paste, fresh green Express – one of the earliest r Drinks ahoy. You always chilles, tomatoes and onions) is fast-food chains to be allowed in knew where this adventure bright red and fiery. Not too far the city– might induce enough would end – at 98B. away in Jamia Nagar, Al Nawaz serves killer biryani. mikmalepcha

90 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 90 8/25/2012 12:29:24 PM A) Cultural place circus B) Shoot at site

Though it’s considered more of surrounds just a little bit longer. You’re tremendously inspired by a practice session for about 15 a commercial hub, Connaught r Thirsting for something less Abhinav Bindra’s performance minutes, after which you’re let Place has quite a bit of culture cerebral? Head to 96A. at the Olympics (in 2008 loose – and you’re even allowed too. Check our listings in Art, r All those languages and at Beijing of course, not at to bring your own weapon. You Dance, Music, Film and Theatre cuisines are whirling through London 2012). Or, more likely, go all guns blazing for a mere to see what’s going on today at your head. It’s time to head you have a great deal of rage `150 an hour. For getting to feel The Attic, British Council, Max to 99A. that needs to be expended. like Clint Eastwood, you think, Mueller Bhawan, the American However, when the urge to blast this is a steal. Centre and Instituto Cervantes. something strikes, steer away r You’ve got your kicks and now If nothing strikes your fancy, from Kashmere Gate (where it’s time for some kicking back, there’s plenty to do at these the actual “gun houses” are), coffee house style. 88C. places anyway. There are vast and head to Sportzcraft at East r Popping bullets has you collections of books to browse, Patel Nagar. The place has a hungry for popping golguppas. classes to take and general 10m shooting range, and there’s 86B. opportunities to socialise with other wordly folk. Not too far away, the cheery YWCA Kitchen fits the international vibe of these centres with its widely- travelled menu (everything from D) Developing identity mezze to Vietnamese chao tam, to Kolkata mutton chops). Walking into Safdarjang serving hot, eggy rolls from The Having had your fill of the global

Kathi’s, and Delhi favourite comfort food on offer, you round Development Area E) GAME OVER Market, you’re Depaul’s cold coffee. However, off your meal with a giant slab anshikavarma The Ring Road is a if you’re more serious about your of home-style tiramisu that’s initially confused sea of cars honking coffee, you might consider Café creamy and fluffy enough to and stalling. Sit back, by the profusion Qahwa’s (see Food & Drink, put a smile on your face, make relax, and read your of cafés. The YWCA Kitchen copy of Time Out until cosy ambience of p152) extensive list of brews. If you linger and soak in your you fall asleep, right there on the road. Kettledrum (see you’re here later in the day, you Then to 99A. Food & Drink, p150) might have stopped en route to looks inviting; you step a house party; SDA Wine and into its faded brick-walled Beer Shop is central and safe for interiors for an artichoke cros- women, with a decent selection C) Sweets spot tini. The display of books on the of wines; you spend a few min- glass wall that the café shares utes more than necessary lust- Delhi’s a veritable mine of food r All set for a bout of bargain- with the Spell & Bound book- ing after unaffor­dable old world gems from around the world; hunting? Good, let’s head shop next-door prompts you to reds. Whether it’s coffee or alco- Despite its misleading name, then to 86C. indulge in some browsing. There hol, you’re destined to head out Surya Sweets is one such place, r You’ve had rather enough is a well-curated mix of fiction with some sort of buzz. serving authentic Palestinian adventuring for one day, but and non-fiction on the ground r Grab a friend, a bottle of fare. After much fruitless you’re not ready to go home floor and children’s books in wine, and a brown bag, meandering around Sarita quite yet. Air-conditioned the spacious basement. You and head for some public Vihar, you find this cavernous comfort awaits you at 98D. stop to look for the photo of pre-drinking at 82E. basement joint at the Vishal your favourite author from the r Too early for that; you’re Palace Hotel. It’s inhabited multitude of framed portraits on still up for a bite and a mostly by slightly soporific- the walls and admire the pretty meander at 82D. looking Palestinian men, but city mural on the another. Climb r You’re getting late for your they warm up to you once you up the spiral staircase to a café party, so get gone to 96B. order a hookah of your own. You nibble on some sticky-sweet baklava and a giant plate of hummus, washing it down with tea. The baba ghanouj at the next table looks so good that you get some for yourself too and strike up a conversation with one of the hotel guests about the medical procedure they’ve come for at Apollo. Ask to be served at the terrace on the roof – it doesn’t have the Middle Eastern coffeeshop feel, but it does have a great view of Spell & Bound paromamukherjee the defunct Delhi Eye. manitbalmiki

92 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 92 8/25/2012 12:30:39 PM A) Late night parathas B) Crash an art opening

If you worked at ITO, India’s is a surprisingly lively spot You don’t have much money, an crasher.) But before long, the answer to London’s Fleet Street, for excellent meat curry with and nowhere you have to be. A alcohol’s loosened your tongue, you’d know the source of the tandoori parathas in the middle little poking around on Facebook and you realise that actual unending power of the several of the night. or Twitter, or in our Books and knowledge is not mandatory, Clark Kents who populate its r If you can still move, turn Art pages should give you a as long as you can pretend to newspaper offices. The secret is to 99A. fair idea of whether there’s a look interested. You’re buzzed not their Kryptonian origins, but launch or an opening planned. – and you’ve even learned a the many nocturnal dhabas that (Hint: most art parties happen thing or two. These affairs are dot the city. After a late night the night before a show’s as much about hooking up and at work – or, if you’re lucky, a run begins.) Failing that, the social climbing as they are about night of saturnalian debauchery signboard in the lobby of most culture. So when someone at any of central Delhi’s five- five-star hotels should point you invites you a cultural event, and star lounges (or dingy dives) in the right direction. (There are another to a house party, which – you wend your way to Shivaji nights at Lado Sarai and Hauz will you choose? Stadium’s parathawalas. Khas Village occasionally too, r More culture schlock? 88B. Wedged between Rajdhani where you won’t feel as much of r Another cosy party? 96B. and the Emporia block on Baba Kharag Singh Marg are two unnamed parathawalas that serve rajma- and kadi-chawal, along with thick, milky chai, the D) In my defence sacramental wine of twilight interlopers. To end the night on a more adventurous note, cruise Pay your respects to Rajinder the pleasantly muted strains of to Patel Nagar where the tucked Chauhan, the mustachioed the keyboardist/singer who’s

manitbalmiki Sahni Bhojan Bhandar away Sahni Bhojan Bhandar gatekeeper at 4S (see Nightlife, sometimes employed here). p210), before mounting this You’ll shell out for one drink cheapie bar and Chinese here, maybe a quick bite (for a restaurant’s steep stairs cheaper bhel option, see Food and giving the place a quick & Drink, p130), before heading once-over for familiar faces. back to 4S to avail of the half- C) Just brew it Not a free table in sight? You price happy hours, gossipy could lurk over that table of waiters and that second plate of You’ve got that pale ale the tunes (and the chocolate- over-gelled interlopers amidst honey chilly potatoes or sesame craving and decide to make flavoured beer) lead you to the regular steady-drinking, toast, for which your digestive that long overdue trip to the the dance floor. If you’re not loud-talking crowd, or you tract will curse you tomorrow. Gurgaon brewpubs to meet the biggest beer-drinker, could add your name to the r Stagger out, a little worse for your corporate-office friends. you might try Rhino (p224), waitlist and pop over the secret the wear, and head to 99A. Hoping to catch a match, you Gurgaon’s new molecular outdoor balcony at 28 Capri r Planning to take up that ran­ head first to cricket-themed drinks destination. Italy, which affords a nice view dom journo’s invitation to a r Howzatt, or to Downtown, You’re too drunk to drive, of Defence Colony Market (and house party? Turn to 96B. which has great pizza. When so you figure you’ll take the the drink threatens to catch up Metro back to the mainland to you, head to 7° Brauhaus from 90E. (see Nightlife, p212), where r You live in Gurgaon, or the beer is accompanied by you think a cab home is large quantities of schnitzel, a better idea, so you call bratwurst and pie. A friend calls one (see Nightlife, p220) you to Lemp (p208), where before heading to 99A. dhrubadutta

E) Flavour accents

You’re in the mood for a fancy of what your meal might meal with wine, so you find taste like. yourself at Indian Accent, on a r Adventures require a little table overlooking the lawns. See cash and you’re totally broke Rhino Food & Drink (p144) for an idea now, so head to 99A.

94 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 94 8/25/2012 12:34:52 PM A) Connaught cocktail B) House call

You’ve decided to pay tribute Lounge, which is new, but still Your friend’s cousin’s colleague the gadda has begun to look to your DU self with a round (or down with purani jeans. At the is hosting an impromptu house inviting... five) at Connaught Place. All stroke of midnight, dhik-chik party, and they’re obviously r No one will notice an extra such enterprises must begin Bollywood music is blasted by clamouring to have you there. body on the already crowded at Blues. It’s still all old-school the DJ and danced to by the You spend the evening hanging mattress. Use your friend’s rock, mood lighting, large many body-building types who out at the terrace drinking warm handbag as a pillow and drift student groups and brooding have shown up. You join in with rum and coke, laughing at the off. When you wake up, head gents in the dark­est corners: full enthusiasm, glad to show off drunk French guy’s attempts to 76E. you feel right at home. A couple your Munni routine. at a (shirtless) mating dance. r You can’t stay the night; of beers in, the band is playing r Dancing plus drinking equals You turn away, and suddenly you aren’t even carrying “Sweet Home Alabama” for the hunger. If you go for the find yourself in the middle of an your toothbrush. Call a cab third time, so you head to Q’BA, classic, take your moves animated argument about the (see Nightlife, p220), and the decidedly less dubious to 98A. origins of marijuana. By now, head back to 99A. option. The drinks are great, r If your adventuring has so are the prawn tikkas, but tau­ght you anything, it’s the vibe is a little too proper that it’s always more fun for the inebriated state you to get off the beaten track. are in. And so you go to Sky Dodder back to 94A. (2) ang l ti tai ti adi miki l

manitba Sky Lounge D) Little Lhasa

You take a rickshaw from the Free Tibet flags. You flag Civil Lines Metro station to the down the next Mudrika bus haphazard riverbank colony of for an adventuresome ride Majnu Ka Tila, where refugees back home. Turn to 92E. C) Tere bin Tughlaq from Tibet were settled in the r No way! You’re up for 1960s in the aftermath of some more adventuring One minute you’re in posh the Indo-China War. You walk – particularly of the drinky- Sarvapriya Vihar, and a few through the narrow lanes of dancey kind at 96A. steps later you’re in the heart the little Himalayan kingdom, of a village. You follow the stopping for some chhurpi horse-drawn vegetable (Yak-cheese cubes). Amid the carts, past houses with their little eateries hawking the city’s own courtyard wells and best momos and the stores stumble upon Begampur selling prayer flags and Buddhist Masjid. The mosque is believed literature, you’re delighted to to have been built during find a video store retailing DVDs the reign of Muhammad bin of Korean movies and soap Tughlaq. Ladies are trying to operas. At the corner, you swig catch a snooze in the open some chhang (Tibetan beer) courtyard, cursing a noisy before heading to Tee Dee, group of pre-teen boys playing short for Tibetan Dhaba, for cricket. You ignore all this and some of their mutton phingsha

walk up the dingy staircase kaipapharokho (a rice noodle soup) and pan- leading up to Bijay Mandal next fried beef shabtra with doughy door and elocute: “My name is r It’s a splendid view of the tingmo bread. If you like what Ozymandias, king of kings/ Look city. But your thirst for more you’ve ingested, “delicious” in on my works, ye mighty, and eye candy leads you to 98B. Tibetan is “shimbo dew”. r despair!” r Views are good, but so are You’re happy to watch the Seriously, do it. the brews at 94C. sun go down, behind all the

96 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 96 8/25/2012 12:36:09 PM Listings A) Chicken out B) Tip top 15 Netaji Subhash The night has Aap Ki Pasand After much partying you feel the slip out once or twice to keep Marg, Daryaganj (2327-7775). Daily brought you to the 10am-6.30pm. need for some solid grub and your buzz going from the bottle reservoir at Hauz Abhiruchi Fancy Dresses head to Pandara Road – tossing in the car, and finish the meal Khas Village – and D-22 Lajpat Nagar-II (6660-1414). a coin to choose between Gulati with a kulfi from Giani’s. You how could it have m Lajpat Nagar. and Have More. You finish all then complain about everything been otherwise, for this is Adyar Ananda Bhavan S-18 Green the onions while waiting for being really heavy. Delhi’s favourite watering hole. Park Main Market (2653-2690). the food to arrive and then get r That was way more expensive m Green Park. Daily 9am-11pm. You catch a live electronica E-96 Lajpat Nagar- your groove back by gorging than you’d imagined it would Afghan Durbar set at TLR Café (See Nightlife, II (4950-2058). m Lajpat Nagar. on creamy butter chicken, dal be. Now head straight p206). But it’s packed like Daily 10am-11pm. makhni and giant naans. You to 99A. sardines, so you head to Al-Jawahar 9-10 Gali Kababian Bohéme (208), a rooftop (2326-9241). m Chawri Bazaar. restaurant above Gunpowder Daily 7am-midnight. (of coastal cuisine and porotta Al Nawaz 321/D-2 Jamia Nagar Main Road, Okhla (26924555). Daily fame). The view is fantastic, 11.30am-3.30pm; 6.30-11.30pm. and there’s a fairly strong Amaravathi 18/2 Arya Samaj breeze blowing through the Road, WEA Karol Bagh (4353- terrace. You sip on a glass of 2828). m Karol Bagh. Daily wine, cool off and look out on to 6.30am-10.30am. the lake. At a couple of hundred Annapurna Sweets DDA Comm­u­ bucks per drink, your wallet’s nity Centre Market, Yusuf Sarai (2656-9244). m Green Park. Daily beginning to feel a little light, 8.30am-8.30pm. so the next stop is Ziro (p212), Anjali International 14 Central where the beer is cheap, and Market, opposite Bata (98109- the hipsters are aplenty. 37779). m Lajpat Nagar. Tue-Sun r There’s nowhere to go from 11am-8pm. here, but 99A. Anjlika Pastry Shop 6/78 Ajmal Khan Road, Karol Bagh (2875- 4824). m Karol Bagh. Daily 9.30am-9.30pm. Arun Watch Company 11-12 DAV School Building, Yusuf Sarai (6621- aditittaialang D) City rock 7225). m Green Park. Asha Ram Ke Parathe Nirmal A senior-citizens’ Restaurant, 756 Chandni Chowk. flash mob, Khoj’s m Chandni Chowk. Daily public artwork in the 6.30am-midnight. Bangla Sweet House 115-117 C) Stay in your lane central atrium, a pro- Gole Market, Bangla Sahib Road motional installation (2334-4371). Daily 8am-10pm. You’re back in Khan Market venues. The options are plenty, for MAC that looks like Begumpur Masjid Begumpur (and somehow you always seem with almost endless permuta- a supermarket run by Bar­bie Village, near Sarvapriya Vihar. to end up back here, no matter tions and combinations that and, invariably, Shahnaz Hus- m Hauz Khas. Bharatiya Yog Sansthan Call how much you complain about can lead to satisfactory results. sain plus her entourage at Barista – you never know what 2794-3421 for details. the loss of your favorite chaat Choose between kitschy, lively The Big Chill 35 Khan Market shop and the addition of that Mamagoto for their delectable Select Citywalk might turn up. (4175-7533). Daily 11am-11pm. ridiculous golden Buddha). Train Station noodles, or Amici The bright lights are dazzling, m Khan Market. Khan’s a great option when you (see Food & Drink, p148) for its temporarily putting you into a Blues N-18 Scindia House, Conn­ want to go 3D: have a dish, des- pizzas and shakes. These are fugue state. When you come aught Place (4707-8888). m Rajiv sert and drink at three separate meals in and of themselves, but to, you’re carrying shot glasses Chowk. Daily noon-1am. Bombay Bhel House D-12 you’ll still want dessert. Hopeful- from Happily Unmarried (see Lifestyle, p104) and knick- Kamla Nagar (2384-0832). ly the waiting list at The Big Chill Daily 9.30am-10pm. has thinned out a bit, so you can knacks from Pylones (p104). Café AIM 1611 Outram Lines, dig into a Mississippi Mudpie You check if Armani Jeans or Kingsway Camp (4701-4696). unhindered, though perhaps Sephora have opened yet, but Daily 10am-10.30pm. slightly ashamed at the fact that it will be a few months. Perhaps Café Turtle 5-B Khan Market the long-term employees here you’re here not for a mall crawl, (2465-641). m Khan Market. Daily 8.30am-9.30pm. know that this isn’t just an occa- but for a bar crawl, so you find yourself at the strip of bars Carnatic Café India Mall, New sional indulgence for you. If you Friends Colony (4100-8630). can manage a drink, you head behind the mall. Our favourite Daily 9am-10.30pm. to Route 04 for some old school is Tryst MusiCafé (See Night- Chaat Corner Aurobindo Place fun and classic rock. life, p216), but 1 Café Bar and Market (98918-99202). r Hic! You’ve had enough fun Boule­vard, Club Czar, Flo, and Chache Di Hatti Kamla Nagar, m for one day. Pack off to 99A. [V] Spot all do the job: namely, next to Dental Clinic. Vishwa­ vidya­laya. Mon-Sat 9am-3pm. r The night’s still young and get you buzzed, dancing and wondering where the CMYK Bookstore 15 Mehar Chand you’re up for a trek,so you Market (2464-1881). Daily head south towards more night went. 11am-8.30pm.

dhrubadutta Route 04 parties at 94C. r Nowhere to go now but 99A. Delhi Bird Call 98100-08635 for details. 98 www.timeoutdelhi.net August 31 – September 13 2012

Coverstory Final 001.indd 98 8/25/2012 12:37:06 PM Delhi ByCycle Call Jack Leenaars Daily 9am-9pm. (98189-81194) for details. Kalan Masjid Near Turkman Gate. Delhi Rail Parikrama Seva Kaleva 109 Gole Market (2336- General fare `8. 5125). Daily 9am-10pm. A) The end Delhi Sweet House 1 Bhagat Singh Kallu Nihari 80 Chattan Lal Mian, Marg, Gole Market (2336-4138). Jama Masjid. m Chawri Bazaar. You’ve had a good day. Perhaps again tomorrow, or better yet, Daily 7am-10pm. Daily 6-7.30am; 5-7pm. you’ve discovered a side of invent your own adventures from Delite Cinemas 4/1 Asif Ali Road, Karim Hotel 16 Gali Kababian. Delhi you hadn’t seen – or scratch. Thanks for playing, and Daryaganj (2327-2549). m Chawri Bazaar. Daily breakfast rediscovered an old haunt. Try keep exploring! Dilli Haat Sri Aurobindo Marg 7-10am. (2611-9055). m INA. Daily 8.30am-­ Karnataka Restaurant 60/5 Yusuf 10pm. Adults `10, children `5. Sarai Market (2651-1222). m Green Downtown SCO 34, Leisure Valley Park. Daily 7.30am-10.45pm. Road, Sector 29, Gurgaon (95822- Kavia’s Kitchen D-91 100 Foot 62545). Daily 1pm-2am. Road, Chattarpur (98731-63883). Evergreen Sweet House S-29 m Chattarpur. Daily noon-midnight. Green Park Main Market (2651- Cash only. 4646). Daily 8.30am-11pm. Kerala Hotel 211-A Mohan Singh Embassy13 Alipur Road, Civil Lines Market, INA (2277-4307). m INA. (2399-3061). m Civil Lines. Open Daily 8.30am-10pm. for lunch noon-3.30pm; dinner Kerala Restaurant A-1289 GD 7.30pm-12.30am. Colony, Mayur Vihar Phase-III Exchange Store 13 Shamnath (98912-66097). Daily 8.30am-11pm. Marg (2398-9368). m Civil Lines. Khubchand 7-8 DDA Community Daily 10.30am-8pm. Centre Market, Yusuf Sarai Fire and Ice Hotel Hari Piorko, (2651-2279). m Green Park. 4775 Main Bazaar, Paharganj Kunafa 70 Mehar Chand Market (2358-7999). mRamakrishna (4905-0644). Daily 10am-9pm. manitbalmikihh Ashram Marg. Daily 7am-1am. Laughter Club of Delhi Call 2721- The French Affair 308 100 Foot 7164 for details. Road, Chattarpur (98110-11239). Laxmi Vilas Madras Café S-26 Gali. m Chandni Chowk. Daily Shyam Sweets Chowk Barshabulla. m Chattarpur. Daily 10.30am-9pm. Green Park Market (2656-8176). 11am-10pm. m Chawri Bazaar. Daily 8am-1pm. Golden Jubilee Park Near Rajghat. Daily 8am-11pm. Prabhu Chaat Bhandar UPSC Sky Lounge Antriksh Bhawan, 22 Great Fire Works 63 Gali 2, Mamagoto 53 Khan Market (4516- Lane, Shahjahan Road. Daily Kasturba Gandhi Marg (2372-1616). Sangam Vihar, Wazirabad 6060). m Khan Market. Daily 9am-9pm. m Rajiv Chowk. Daily 9pm until late. (98732-19872). 12.30pm-11.30pm. Purani Dilli Restaurant 371 Main Special Chaat Bhandar 6/9 Ajmal Gulabsingh Johrimal 467 Chandni Maria Restaurant A-1241 GD Road, Zakir Nagar (6414-0757, Khan Road, Karol Bagh. m Karol Chowk (2326-3743). m Chandni Colony, Mayur Vihar Phase-III 2698-3371). Daily 4-11pm. Bagh. Tue-Sun 10am-10pm. Chowk. Mon-Sat 10.30am 7.30pm. (3203-9021/99110-71470). Daily Q’BA E 42/43 Connaught Place Special Jaleba 1469/1 Fountain Gulzari Lal and Sons 46 Bengali 8.30am-10.30pm. (4517-3333). m Rajiv Chowk. Chowk (98689-67612). m Chandni Market (2331-4519). Daily Market Café 8 Khan Market Daily noon-1am. Chowk. Daily 9am-10pm. 11am-10pm. m Mandi House. (4333-3666) Daily 10.30am-10pm. Quality Dairy Paneer Bhandar Spell & Bound C-11 SDA Market Ghantewala 1862 Chandni Chowk m Khan Market. 18 Aurobindo Place Market (4102-7728). m Hauz Khas. Daily (2324-0891).m Chandni Chowk. Mazaar E-86 Lajpat Nagar-I (2696-3782). 9.30am-11pm. Daily 8am-8.45pm. (4157-9595). m Lajpat Nagar. Qudsia Bagh Shamnath Marg, Sportzcraft 7/2 Basement, East Gulati Restaurant 6 Pandara Daily 2pm-11am. near Kashmiri Gate ISBT. Patel Nagar (98100-08140). Road Market (2338-8836). Daily Mohan Ram 4 Tiraha Kinari m Kashmere Gate. Sunrise-sunset. m Patel Nagar. Daily 10am-8pm. noon-1.30am. Bazaar, Maliwada. m Chandni Qudsia Ghat Near Ladakh Sunder Nursery Near Humayun’s Gunpowder 22 Hauz Khas Village, Chowk. Daily 8am-8pm. Buddhist Vihara. m Kashmere Tomb (2435-9931). Mon-Sat Third Floor (2653-5700). Daily Moti Mahal 3704 Netaji Subhash Gate. Daily 8am-7pm. 9am-6pm. 7pm-11pm. Marg, Daryaganj(2327-3011). Daily Roshan Di Kulfi 2816 Ajmal Khan Sunehri Masjid Shantivana Marg, Gurudwara Damdama Sahib 11am-midnight. Road, Karol Bagh (2872-4230). near Red Fort. Bharat Scouts and Guides Marg Mutiny Memorial Rani Jhansi m Karol Bagh. Daily 8am-9.30pm. Surya Sweets Vishal Palace Hotel, (2435-3212). Langar noon-5pm. Road, south of Hindu Rao Hospital. Route 04 4 Khan Market 61 Institutional Area, Sarita Vihar Haji Noor Mohammed Open sunrise to sunset. Free. (4352-1811). Daily 10am-1am. (98110-55115). m Sarita Vihar. Biryaniwale Elaichiwali Gali, Nasir Iqbal Restaurant 268-A m Khan Market. Daily 11am-11pm. near Turkman Gate. m New Delhi. Nizamuddin West (98912-78628). Sahni Bhojan Bhandar 2157/B-2 Tee Dee H-32 New Aruna Nagar, Daily 9am-2pm. Daily noon-midnight. Cash only. Guru Arjun Nagar, near Satyam behind Tibetan School (2393-9414). Haji Qader Nihariwala 2268 Chitli Nathu’s Pastry Shop 12-13 Cineplex, Patel Nagar (2570-9987). Thugs Hotel Broadway, 4/15-A Qabar, Turkman Gate. m New Delhi. Bengali Market (2371-3601). m Shadipur. Daily 11am-4pm; Daryaganj (2327-3821). Daily Daily 7am-10pm. m Mandi House. Daily 11am-9pm. 6pm-2.30am. noon-11.30pm. Haji Shabrati Nihariwale 722 National Federation of Fisheries Sam’s Café Vivek Hotel, 1534-50 Tofik Ahmed Laxmi Nagar Pushta, Haveli Azam Khan, Jama Masjid 4 DDA Community Centre Market Main Bazaar, Paharganj (4154- Hathiwala Mohalla, near ITO bridge (6-9am). m Chawri Bazaar. (2651-1066). m Green Park. 1436). m Ramakrishna Ashram (98111-25854). Harnarain Gokalchand 6678 Okhla Bird Sanctuary Behind Marg. Daily 8am-11pm. Turant Near Sangeet Bharati, Khari Baoli (2399-2590). Mon-Sat Kalindi Kunj. Daily sunrise-sunset. SDA Wine and Beer Shop C-3 Tansen Marg. m Mandi House. 10.30am-7.30pm. Old Famous Jalebi Wala 1795 SDA Market (92121-64946). United Coffee House 15-E Inner Hazari Lal Jain 2225 Kinari Bazaar Dariba Corner, Chandni Chowk m Hauz Khas. Daily 10am-10pm. Circle (23416075). m Rajiv Chowk. (2325-3992). m Chandni Chowk. (2325-6973). m Chandni Chowk. Shah Music Centre Alam Gramo­ Daily 10am-midnight. Mon-Sat 6am-9pm; Sun 6am-2pm. Daily 8am-1pm. phone Point, 1611 Daryaganj Vinod Snacks 1 Central Market, The Himjoli Shop 69 Aurobindo Pages E-38 Lajpat Nagar-II (4613- (2327-6090). Lajpat Nagar (2983-9502). Place Market (2656-1110). 2001). m Lajpat Nagar. Shaheed Ashfaqullah Khan Fish m Lajpat Nagar. Hotel Metropolis 1634 Main Pakore Ki Dukaan 120 Netaji Market Near m Kaushambi. Wenger’s A-16 Connaught Place Bazaar, Paharganj (2356-1782). Subhash Market, Ajmal Khan Road, Shripal Parajpat Todar Mal Lane. (2332-4373). m Rajiv Chowk. m Rama Krishna Ashram Marg. Karol Bagh (2367-0668). m Karol m Mandi House. Daily noon-5pm. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Daily 11am-11.45pm. Bagh. Daily 10am-9pm, except last Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra Wimpy’s Express 31 Aurobindo Howzatt Galaxy Hotel, Sector 15, Monday of the month. 1 Copernicus Marg (2328-7132). Place Market (2651-2763). Gurgaon (0124-4032222). Daily Pandit Babu Ram Devi Dayal, m Mandi House. m Green Park. 12.30pm-12.30am. Pandit Kanhaiya Lal Durga Shri Ram Café 4 Safdar Hashmi YWCA Kitchen10 Parliament Street Indian Coffee House Mohan Singh Prasad Dixit, Pandit Gaya Marg. m Mandi House. Tue-Sat (4356-1615). m Central Secretariat. Place (2334-2994). m Rajiv Chowk. Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthewali 9am-8pm; Sun 1pm-7.30pm. Daily noon-11pm. August 31 – September 13 2010 www.timeoutdelhi.net 99

Coverstory Final 001.indd 99 8/25/2012 12:38:21 PM