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2006-06 Kootenay Mountaineer

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2006-06 Kootenay Mountaineer The KMC Newsletter May/June 2006 Issue 3 Next deadline: Aug.10/06 “The summit is a small part of the mountain…the cliché saying, ‘it’s about the journey’ rings true for me, yet our culture is so goal oriented and ego-based that the goal of the summit Inside outweighs the journey” Peggy Foster “Failing has given me the opportunity to truly grow as a person, whereas if I had only had Information: success, I may have never looked deeply into how I was approaching mountaineering and Mt. Trudeau to be officially named in life in general”. Abby Watkins June, Directions and Distances, Mountain School Tech Tips “I have failed so many times, but people only hear about me when I succeed. Nobody except Conservation: Salton Sea my friends know how hard it was to get to those moments. That is our nature, people in Threatened general always like success” Josune Bereziartu Activities: ClubTrip Reports: Kootenay Canal, “Even my failures seem directly related to my success… I know it sounds cheesy but as long Sentinel Slog, Beyond Syringa, West as nobody gets hurt and everyone has fun, then that to me is a very successful day, summit or Creston Climbing, Along Columbia no summit” Sonnie Trotter River, Robson Ramble, Fry Crk.Canyon, Evans Crk. Trail, Balfour-Garland Bay- return, “After all, it’s just climbing and failure is a part of the game” Charlie Fowler Mt.Gladstone, Pass Crk-Castlegar loop, Crawford Pk., Champion from Heather Lea’s article “The Joy Of Failure” in Gripped, The Climbing Lakes, Old Glory Mtn., 6-Mile Magazine , 12/01/2006 Lakes-return, Snow + Rock Skills Review, Gray’s Pk. Other Trip Reports: Kootenay Pass to Char Crk. Ski Traverse, Mc Bride Adventure Smart Range Traverse, Sangrida Pk., Mt. Each year there are over 1,000 search and rescue incidents resulting in over 200 Faith, Mt.Brennan persons injured and over 80 deaths. There are 93 Ground Search and Rescue teams made from 4,700 volunteers with the responsibility for ground and inland waterways and supported by the Provincial Emergency Programs Public Safety Lifeline Volunteer Services. These dedicated volunteers are trained in Ground Search and Points To Ponder Rescue, Swift Water Rescue, Rope Rescue, Tracking, Avalanche Response and Mountain Rescue. If you require assistance from one of these teams contact the “Always leave as large a margin of police in the area. Visit www.adventuresmart.ca for a downloadable trip form that safety as you possibly can, especially you can use when you go out on a trip. when you are the guide. Always proceed in a manner that gives you several options in case things turn out differently than you anticipated. In fact, Try Needle Sports at http://www.needlesports.com/advice/abseilknots.htm I have come to the conclusion that This website provides “notes intended to assist the climber who has already gained some knowledge of rock climbing and is fully aware of its risks but things could go wrong on the mountain that would be possible for even the still wishes to progress further up the grades, and indeed the mountains”. greatest mountaineer to overcome” Hans Gmoser Library News: How To … How to cook in the backcountry, stay found off the trail, read a map, plan a route, build a rock or snow anchor, raise someone from a crevasse, lead a club trip. The KMC library has how to books on all these topics and more. We even have a book on how to s**t in the woods. The complete list of books is on the KMC website. Check it out and learn some new skills this summer. New books in the library: • Cross-Country Ski Routes of Oregon’s Cascades by Klindt Vielbig. • Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques by W. May. • Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas by F. Beckey and E. Bjornstad. • Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide by Fred Beckey. HINT OF THE MONTH Do you need a small funnel for filling your camp stove? To PEEVE OF THE MONTH make one, take an empty toothpaste tube and cut off the top People who put their packs into the car with ice axes about 3cm below the top. Wash out the contents in about 4 attached. Please remove the ice axes and lay them flat on changes of water. Norman Thyer the floor of the car/trunk. Norman Thyer, Nelson, B.C. in 2000, was Canada's 15th Mount Trudeau to And the people Economic growth? prime minister. He held the What is the purpose of an be officially named office from 1968 to 1979, and turn the page! economy? Is it to get everyone from 1980 to 1984. From the working, producing and in June 13 Apr 2006 online CBC News. "A familiar ritual is under way. Mount Mackenzie King and Business clears its throat, consuming as much as possible, Mount Laurier will have a government stages a press or to find a happy medium newly christened neighbour this conference on the library steps between work and leisure? Our spring when Mount Trudeau is Directions & and the people turn the obsession with economic officially named on June 10. Distances page...The joke is on nature, growth obscures the fact that which is us. Claiming "balance" after a certain point more wealth Earlier efforts to rename Norman Thyer welcomes Yukon's Mount Logan as Mount as eco-guardian is a flawed – a bigger car, a larger house, a Trudeau failed after opponents you to use directions and concept, inherently implying a wider television set – no longer complained it was an insult to distances from the following level of environmental translates into greater well- Sir William Edmond Logan, a Kootenay summits on his destruction. It's a euphemism being. Work can be fun and prominent Canadian geologist. Web Pages at Directions & for getting away with as much fulfilling, but it turns out that The future Mount Trudeau is Distances to Prominent as possible under a smokescreen what really makes us happy and located between Prince George Kootenay Summits or of concern. The approach is healthy is having enough time for family, friends and just plain and Jasper. It is part of the http://mypage.uniserve.com/ creating enviro dead zones from old rest and relaxation. Premier Range in British coast to coast. Some progress, ~nthyer/welcome.htm : Remember the saying “No one Columbia's Cariboo Mountains. some future… A bercrombie Mtn. , M t. lies on their deathbed thinking During Canada's Diamond Government and business prefer Brennan , Mt. Carlyle , ‘I wish I’d spent more time in Jubilee in 1927, the names of to offer "balance", progressing Copper Mountain ,Mt. Elise, the office’ ” the peaks in the range were their way to nature's demise. By Carl Honoré from his article reserved for prime ministers of Mt. Fennell , Mt. Freya , And the people turn the page." You Snooze, You Win in “En Canada and Great Britain. Gimli Pk. , Glacier View James McNulty in his Route Magazine”, Oct. 2005 Former Prime ministers Arthur Peak , Mt. Grohman , Idaho "Opinion" from the June 25, Meighen, Richard Bennett, John Peak , Mt. Mephistopheles , 2005, The Province pA12. Abbott, John Thompson, Old Glory , Saddle Mtn. , Mackenzie Bowell and Lester Sunset Mtn. , Woden Peak , Pearson also have mountains Ymir Mountain Thank You named after them in the range, for this Norman ! as does former B.C. premier John Oliver. Trudeau, who died Mountain School Tech Tips: Ice Axes On moderate angle snow slopes, holding the axe like a The days of the wooden shafted ice axe (apart from crossed walking stick will generally offer sufficient security for over mantels in expensive ski chalets) are long over – most climbers (there is a pompous French term for this). lightweight aluminum ice axes are now most people's tool of Most people tend to hold the axe with the pick towards the choice. To determine the right length for a general back of the hand – the self-arrest position – so a slip can be mountaineering axe, hold the head of the axe in your hand quickly caught. When ascending slopes diagonally, the in- with your arm straight by your side and the ferrule (spike on balance position is with the downhill leg straight and the the end) should just graze the floor. Some aluminum shaft inside leg above and ahead of the downhill leg. The most axes have a rubber-coated shaft, which makes them a bit secure movement sequence is to first move the axe up and warmer to hold onto, but somewhat more difficult to plunge plant the shaft firmly into the snow, move the outside leg up into harder snow. Aluminum heads are nice and light, but (out-of-balance), then the inside leg (back to in-balance), might bounce off if you find yourself chopping steps in hard repeat. Descending will generally involve facing out and snow or ice and are probably only suitable for winter use moving down with an aggressive plunge step. Step down only. One-piece steel heads weigh a little more but are landing on the heel with a straight leg and drive your heel sturdier and can be used year round. onto the snow for a nice secure step. If you need a self- belay, reach down and plant the shaft of the axe firmly into the snow below you. Should you slip, your weight should and quickly self-arrest is to practice. Hard-packed ski runs at drive the shaft more firmly into the snow. If the axe is the end of the season make a good location.
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