buying guide bestofyear 2011 The cities of Oporto and Vila Nova de Gaia remain bastions of the port trade.

2 portugal 12 france 20 germany 20 italy 31 california 46 new york 48 virginia 49 argentina 54 chile 57 spirits 58 beer

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WineMag.com | 1 POrtugal Warming Ports for wintertime sipping

s the nights grow longer and colder, our bodies’ meta­bolisms to drink, while Ports spend no more than two years in cask be- naturally slow down, we crave sweet and fatty foods and we fight fore bottling, leaving them the potential to develop in bottle for decades. A off the chill any way we can, from snuggling under wool blankets In 2009, many Port houses released single-quinta vintage Ports, to stoking the wood stove. For lovers, perhaps the ultimate winter which tend to be more approachable than classic vintage Ports. Ad- warmer is a glass of Port. ditional reviews of classic 2009 vintage Ports from such producers as Produced in Portugal’s Douro Valley, this traces its ­Taylor Fladgate (96 points), Fonseca (95 points) and Croft (93 points) ­origins back to the late 17th century, when wine shipped out of Opor- will appear in a forthcoming issue. Early reports suggest that 2011 has to at the mouth of the Douro was fortified to protect it against spoil- the quality potential for another vintage Port declaration. age en route to England or Holland. By 1756, the Douro region had The classic Port pairing is walnuts and Stilton cheese, but any hard been demarcated and its production regulated, making it the world’s veined blue will suffice, its salty intensity balanced by the sweetness and first appellation. power of the Port. Old , with their layers of unfolding complex- Port is made by adding neutral grape spirit to partially fermented ity, are often best sipped on their own. must, stopping the fermentation and retaining some degree of residu- If you are still looking for sparkling suggestions to ring in the New al sugar. Today, most Ports are fortified to 20% abv and contain approx- Year, this month’s Buying Guide includes more than 100 Italian bub- imately 90 g/L residual sugar. At those levels, a glass or two will chase blies, great from Burgundy and Faugères in France, the latest re- most any wintry chill away. leases from California and New York and bargains from Argentina and Once fortified, Ports can travel down several paths, from Chile—just in case your wine budget has the post-holiday blues. ruby (minimal aging) to tawny (up to 40 years or more oak aging) Cheers! and everything in between. Tawny and reserve Ports are bottled ready —Joe Czerwinski

2009 vintage Port Duorum 2009 Vinha Castelo Melhor Vin- Quinta de la Rosa 2006 Late Bottled Vin- 90 tage Port. The hot 2009 vintage has yielded 88 tage Port. With its attractive 500-ml package, Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 Vintage Port. For young vintage Ports with intense color. Here the color this is a great way to present Port. The wine is per- 93 full review see page 4. shows the ripeness of the perfumed, concentrated black fumed, soft, full of ripe prune and chocolate flavors, abv: 20% Price: $62 fruit. Rich, full, more open than tannic, likely to age with an attractive freshness. Vinum Wine Importing over the medium term. Winebow. —R.V. and Distributing LLC. —R.V. Churchill’s 2009 Quinta da Gricha Vin- abv: NA Price: $70 abv: 20% Price: $NA/500 ml 92 tage Port. From the cooler north-facing Quin- ta da Gricha, this wine avoided the heat of 2009 to give Wiese & Krohn 2009 Vintage Port. Deeply Quinta de Ventozelo 2007 Late Bottled a rich, also firmly tannic wine, on the dry side, very per- 90 fruity wine, almost black in color and very aro- 88 Vintage Port. With black fruits, very ripe and fumed. It will obviously age well, its luscious fruit very matic. It has opulent sweet ripe fruit, quite soft in char- sweet, this is a stylish LBV. It is on the fruity side, al- structured and powered by tannins. Frederick Wildman acter with violet and sweet plum flavors. It is probably though with an added substructure of tannin. Soft, & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. not for long-term aging, while its fruit character will rounded and very ready to drink, finishing with per- abv: 20% Price: $118 make it delicious soon. Megawine Inc. —R.V. fumed swathes of fruit. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $35 abv: 20% Price: $20 Dow’s 2009 Quinta Senhora da Ribeira 92 Vintage Port. A dry style of vintage, bound by Wiese & Krohn 2009 Quinta do Retiro its tannins, the black fruits adding an element of fresh- 88 Novo Vintage Port. This quinta is in the Rio Tawny port ness to the rich, chunky texture. It has weight, great Torto Valley in the heart of the Port . The wine presence, a powerful dark wine for aging. Premium is rich, sweet fruited, ripe with jammy blackberries and Ramos-Pinto NV 30 Years Tawny Port. Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. great perfumes. Open, already drinkable in a fruity way, 92 Aged for around 30 years in wood, this wine has abv: 20% Price: $60 it is likely to age over the medium term. Megawine Inc. gained the most delicious toffee character to go with the —R.V. old gold feel and wood acidity. There is a lovely round- W. & J. Graham’s 2009 Quinta dos Malve- abv: 20% Price: $30 ed character, so smooth as well as intense. The Port is 92 dos Vintage Port. For full review see page 5. bottled ready to drink. Maisons Marques & Domaines abv: NA Price: $58 USA. —R.V. LBV Port abv: 19.5% Price: $110 Quinta de la Rosa 2009 Vintage Port. This 91 Port shows considerable richness in its jammy, Quinta de la Rosa 2007 Late Bottled Vin- Wiese & Krohn 1961 Colheita Port. Wiese spicy red fruit character. It is dense, on the sweet side, 88 tage Port. In its memorable dumpy bottle, this 92 & Krohn is one of those shippers that has an ex- with a great open, ripe style. The tannins are relatively LBV is full of sweet ripe fruits, soft tannins and per- tensive collection of old colheita (wood aged) tawnies. soft, suggesting this delicious vintage is for medium- fumed acidity. The texture is firm and structured at the This is an old gold-colored wine, unctuous in its texture. term aging. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing end. Drinkable now, but worth aging for a year or two. LLC. —R.V. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $54 abv: 20% Price: $NA/500 ml Continued on Page 10

2 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Chalk Hill 2008 Botrytised Sémillon Darms Lane 2008 Bon Passe Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul (Chalk Hill). Very, very sweet and decadent, (Napa Valley). Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Reviewer Virginie Boone 95 94 in Santa Rosa. like pure honey. Nectar of the gods-type wine, oozing Darms Lane scores big with this rich, complex young If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s spicy apricot, orange, roasted almond and vanilla hon- Cabernet, which comes from a vineyard in the cool Oak initials appear following the note. When no initials appear ey flavors. To describe the mouthfeel as creamy hardly Knoll region. The blackberry and cherry flavors, accent- following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or does it justice, it’s so viscous and glyceriney. A magnifi- ed with red currants, licorice, cocoa, mushu plum sauce more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are cent to savor. —S.H. and sweet buttered cinnamon toast, are absolutely de- by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. abv: 13.5% Price: $45/375 ml licious. More impressive is the tannin-acid structure, Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, which hits no wrong notes. A real beauty, capable of ag- its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by ing through the decade. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.8% Price: $60 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. Tasting Methodology and Goals All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. About the Scores Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Monticello 2008 Corley Reserve Cab- Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A terrif- Superb 94–97: A great achievement. 95 Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. ic Napa Cabernet, dry and smooth and tremendously Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. layered in flavors. Blackberries, blueberries, currants, Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. crême de cassis, anise, dark chocolate and cedar flood Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- the palate and are just delicious. Best of all is the struc- Francis Ford Coppola 2007 Archimedes critical circumstances. ture, so rich in firm tannins and acidity. Wonderful now, 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 and should develop for at least a decade. —S.H. As fine a Cabernet as Coppola has ever produced (ex- points) are not reviewed. abv: 14.2% Price: $72 clusive, of course, of Rubicon), this one’s as deep and Special Designations fancy as almost anything from Napa Valley. Strikes you Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent immediately with a wealth of sweet, oak-infused black- quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. berry, cherry and red currant flavors. The tannins are Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible immaculate. This dramatic Cab will develop for the re- and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation mainder of the decade. —S.H. does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but abv: 14.5% Price: $52 that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. Submitting Products for Review Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. W.H. Smith 2009 Bill and Joan’s Special com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting Selection Maritime (Sonoma & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ 95 wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting Coast). A gorgeous evocation of Pinot Noir. Pours pale products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted in color and translucent, suggesting it’s not a heavy fruit for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted bomb, and indeed it is not. Feels as light as a cloud, yet will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission with intense flavors of red stone fruits, bacon and spic- Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Les Clos Grand forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. es, and that feral, wild forest quality you get from the 94 Cru (Chablis). A tight and steely wine, very Labels best Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs. Bone dry, but so sweet much in its infancy. It is taut, the texture dominated by Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given in fruit and cedar, with wonderful acidity. Superb now, green apple skins, herbs, some light toast. This is a com- the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and after decanting, and should develop over the next 6–8 plex, impressive wine, its rich fruit still to show. Keep printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases,­ contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. for 4–5 years and more. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Se- 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. abv: NA Price: $60 lection. —R.V. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 13% Price: $70 buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 3 Staglin 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Long Meadow Ranch 2008 Cabernet 94 (Rutherford). The 2008 vintage wasn’t the 93 (Spring Mountain). An old-fashioned Spring 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A terrific Cab- greatest ever in Napa, and this isn’t the greatest ever Mountain Cabernet, marked by hard tannins and a ernet, so balanced and elegant it’s classic Napa Valley. Staglin Cabernet. But it is one of the successes of the mountain concentration of primary fruit that makes it Rich in blackberries, black currants, herbs and cedar, vintage, showing how a great rises over vintage too astringent and direct to enjoy now. With massive with a perfect touch of smoky oak, and so smooth and limitations. Feels lush and dramatic in the mouth, with blackberry, blueberry, cassis, dark chocolate and min- complex, you keep returning for a second and third lush, smooth tannins housing classic Cabernet flavors of eral flavors, it needs time to allow all the parts to con- glass. Long Meadow Ranch is a winery that consistently black currants, plums, green olives and dark chocolate, join. Give it another six years, at the very least. Cellar overdelivers. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. accented with spicy, smoky oak. Should develop in the Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 bottle over at least six years, and could be one of those abv: 14.4% Price: $86 sleepers that surprises in 20. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $185

Conn Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Napa Valley). This is a blend of the various vineyards Conn Creek has access to. It is a splendid tes- timony to the winemaker’s ability to take disparate lots Louis M. Martini 2008 Lot No.1 Cabernet Storybook Mountain 2008 Estate Re- and make them harmonious. Just a beautiful Cabernet, 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This has been 94 serve (Napa Valley). This is the dry and softly luscious, with complex blackberry, black pretty much Martini’s best Cabernet Sauvignon over most elegant of the winery’s new , although currant, anise and cedar flavors. A wonderful experi- the last few years, and with this ’08, the winery commits “elegant” has to be taken in context when it comes to ence now, and it should develop in the bottle for several itself to playing in the major leagues. It’s very rich and mountain fruit with this intensity and power. It’s a big years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ripe in sweet blackberries and cherries, with a tremen- wine, with potent raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 dous oak coat, and the tannin-acid structure is of the Yet there’s a delicacy to it, even considering the tannins, highest order. Should age effortlessly over the next 12 that’s almost like a Pinot Noir, strange as that sounds. years, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Earns its high score by virtue of this magic. Should age abv: 15.1% Price: $120 effortlessly throughout the decade. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $55

Hall 2008 Segassia Vineyard Cabernet Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 Vintage Port. 93 Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). As good as the 93 Rich wine, as befits a ripe year, full of damson Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Hall’s ’08 Segassia is vastly rich in sweet, pure jam and sweet tannins. Of course, it is still very young 93 (Howell Mountain). At more than five years blackberry and cherry fruit flavors. New oak, to the tune in a ripe fruity style. The structure is all there, ready for of age, this Cabernet remains very tannic. That gives it of 85%, adds important notes of sweet caramel and but- aging. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. an astringency that stings the palate, but still, the core tered toast. This is not your typical Mount Veeder Cab, abv: 20% Price: $62 of blackberries, cherries and sweet currants shines but much softer and riper than you might expect. Deli- through. There’s a good possibility this wine will age cious now and for the next several years. —S.H. well for a very long time. Try after 2015, when it will be abv: 14.9% Price: $150 nine years old. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $86

4 | wine enthusiast | december 2011 Hall 2008 Exzellenz Sacrashe Vineyard 92 (Rutherford). Made from 100% Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2009 Mal- Cabernet, this shows the tremendous richness and con- 92 bec (Patagonia). A dynamite with centration of previous vintages of this wine, which was Hendry 2007 Hendry Vineyard Cabernet heavy oak and the structure and foundation to match aged in 90% new French oak. Huge and flashy in cherry, 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This 100% Cab- it. Lemon, hickory, leather, marzipan and black fruit blackberry and raspberry fruit, gorgeous, sumptuous, ernet Sauvignon is very strong in blackberries, black aromas are powerful. In the mouth, tannins and extract fat, although purists will insist it’s too much of a good currants and cedar. It’s also quite tannic. Clearly a rich, create a vise grip to frame concentrated blackberry, thing. Hard to predict its longterm future, but the next well-grown wine, but marked by immaturity, with un- coconut, pepper and lemon peel flavors. Layered and six years are assured. —S.H. integrated sweet fruit and oak flavors. Needs a good six woody on the finish. Drink from 2012 through 2016. abv: 15% Price: $165 years to start to knit together. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $128

Labouré-Roi 2009 La Futaille (Gevrey- 92 Chambertin). No question, this is a wood- Labouré-Roi 2008 Les Chevaliers (Meur- Elyse 2008 Black-Sears Vineyard Zin- aged wine, with its raspberry fruits still under the strong 91 sault). Full and buttery, as befits a Meursault, 92 fandel (Napa Valley). The grapes for this influence of toast and spice. The fruit, though, is rich the wine also has a fine-textured acidity, spice and toast. Zin come from high up on Howell Mountain, which enough to allow the wine to balance out, its fruit tannins It is rich, although with a crisp citrus edge that balances accounts for their concentration. Massive in blackber- adding good power and structure. Keep for 4–5 years. out the ripe melon and honey flavor. Ready to drink, ries, mushu plum, mocha and spices, its initial taste is as Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. but could age for a few years. Palm Bay International. sweet as jam. But it turns dry and minerally on the fin- abv: 13% Price: $42 —R.V. ish. A delicious, softly tannic wine to drink now and for abv: 12.5% Price: $49 the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $37

Labouré-Roi 2009 Réserve Premier Cru 91 (Montagny). Structured white fruits, this is a complex and concentrated wine. Toast, apple and apri- cot flavors are blended with herbs and intense acidity. Spice from the wood shows on the finish. Palm Bay In- Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s W. & J. Graham’s 2009 Quinta dos Mal- ternational. —R.V. 92 Cut Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Just one 92 vedos Vintage Port. A rich vintage of the abv: 13% Price: $28 word for this Zin: delicious. It’s really classic Dry Creek, ripe Malvedos style. It has great blackberry jam flavors, maybe a little softer than many, but profoundly ripe in laced with just the right amount of tannins and an extra wild berry, cherry, cola, licorice, black pepper and san- burst of ripe, sweet fruit. For medium-term aging. Pre- dalwood flavors that finish long and deep. Great price mium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. for a Zinfandel this good. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 20% Price: $58 abv: 14.5% Price: $24

WineMag.com | 5 Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). This Brut sparkling Louis M. Martini 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Roth 2010 (Sonoma Coast). 90 wine from northern Italy opens with enticing 90 gnon (Napa Valley). Lots of elegance and 91 Could be a , with Meyer lem- aromas of toasted bread, yellow rose and bright lem- sophistication in this drily tannic, smooth Cabernet. on, green apple and tropical fruit flavors, accented with on zest. That vanilla cream versus citrus juxtaposition is It’s textbook Napa, with complex blackberry and cur- crisp acidity. That’s no disrespect. It’s a compliment, in what sets this fantastic bubbly apart. Palm Bay Interna- rant flavors, touched by smoky oak. A very nice restau- this age of clumsy, overoaked Chardonnays. Elegant tional. —M.L. rant wine to drink now, and easy to find, with more than and food-friendly, it’s brightened with the acidity of a abv: 12.5% Price: $25 16,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fresh lime. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $22

Ferrari NV Rosé (Trento). Ferrari produces Occasio 2010 Del Arroyo Vineyard Fumé 90 wonderful sparkling wines year after year and 90 Blanc (Livermore Valley). John Kinney is Silverado 2009 Miller Ranch Sauvignon this Brut Rosé carries forth that proud Trento (northern doing great things with Livermore Valley fruit, most es- 91 Blanc (Napa Valley). The 2009 vintage was a Italy) tradition. It opens with a pale pink color and deep pecially with many of his whites, including this classi- great one for this bottling, which was too sweet in 2008. layers of yeast, cranberry and savory spice. Palm Bay In- cally oaked Fumé Blanc, the grapes barrel-fermented in This one’s more like the ’05, only richer and better. It ternational. —M.L. 100% French oak (Seguin Moreau and Taransaud) and feels nice and crisp and dry, with polished, complex cit- abv: 12.5% Price: $38 left sur lie for six months, Montrachet style. Creamy but rus fruit, white flower, peach and mineral flavors.Edi - bright with aromatics of caramel and vanilla, but only 50 tors’ Choice. —S.H. cases were made. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $24

Labouré-Roi 2009 Les Hautes Tours (Nu- 90 its-St.-Georges). A firmly tannic wine, the ripe fruit surrounded by a dry shell. It is already show- ing the firm chunky character of Nuits-St-Georges, with its dark plum and bitter cherry fruits well into the com- Biltmore 2009 Reserve plex mix of flavors. Age for at least three years. Palm Bay 90 (Dry Creek Valley). Considerably lighter in International. —R.V. Quivira 2009 Quest Zinfandel (Dry Creek body and texture than your average Cab Franc, Bilt- abv: 13% Price: $42 90 Valley). This spicy, powerful Zinfandel has more’s 2009 has the weight of a nice Pinot Noir. But it’s 10% of Petite Sirah blended in, which adds depth, rich- intense in cherry, red plum and cedar flavors, with ultra- ness and tannins. You can call the resulting wine rustic, fine tannins. Sophisticated and elegant, a wine to drink in the sense of its wild berry and spice flavors and briary, with upscale fare, especially with mushrooms. Editors’ brambly mouthfeel. But it’s also classic Dry Creek Val- Choice. —S.H. ley. Drink over the next few years with barbecue, or try abv: 14.3% Price: $25 a Mexican-inspired beef dish. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

6 | wine enthusiast | december 2011 Rutherford Ranch 2007 90 Reserve Cabernet Sau- vignon (Napa Valley). Very dry and tannic, a style of Cabernet that relies more on structure than flash. Despite fairly high alcohol, it keeps a tight rein on the blackberries and ce- dar, locking the flavors in astringency. Needs time. Give it until 2013 and see where it goes. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $48 Incognito 2009 Lodi. This vintage’s blend is 87 50% , 25% Cinsault and smaller percent- Zocker 2010 Paragon Vineyard Grüner ages of other varieties. It’s an oaky, cedar-tinged, gamy 90 Veltliner (Edna Valley). Pretty much a suc- red that’s big in the mouth, dense and tannic with Mi- cessful repeat of the winery’s ’09. It’s dry and high in chael David’s smoky signature. —V.B. acidity, giving it a zesty, clean mouthfeel. The flavors are abv: 14.5% Price: $18 refreshing, of citrus fruits, pears, vanilla and white pep- per. A compelling and beautiful cocktail-style wine. Ed- itors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Silverado 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). 90 The coolness of the region and vintage shows Masked Rider 2007 Petite Sirah (Califor- in this Chard’s acidic crispness and minerality. It comes 87 nia). Lots of lush, ripe richness in this smooth down on the Chablis-style end of the spectrum, with drinking Petite Sirah. The blackberry, black currant, hints of tropical fruits, apples and pears, as well as a wel- chocolate and sandalwood flavors are delicious. Pretty come touch of sweet oak. Easily Silverado’s best Char- good price for the quality. —S.H. donnay in years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.9% Price: $25 Kirkland Signature 2008 Signature Se- 89 ries Mountain Cuvée Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Napa Valley). A very rich, ripe, opulent Cab- ernet, fulsome in blackberries, blueberries, currants and licorice, nicely framed in sweet, smoky oak. Easy to drink now for its soft tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

Veramonte 2009 Primus Cabernet Sauvi- Toad Hollow 2007 Toad’s Pride Pinot Noir 87 gnon (Colchagua Valley). Earthy and leafy 90 (Russian River Valley). This big, full-bodied up front, with tobacco and olive aromas in addition to Pinot leaves little to the imagination. It assaults the pal- berry and cherry. Full and showing a fierce grip on the ate with massive fruit, spice and cedar flavors that sink palate due to rough tannins. Tastes of cassis and medici- down into the tongue and last long on the finish. It’s dry Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2010 A nal red berry fruits, and that’s followed by a lively, long and balanced, but really seems too young. Try giving it 88 Lisa Malbec (Patagonia). Concentrated and finish. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. four years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. jammy smelling, with a note of iodine to go with racy abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 black fruit aromas. Dense as night in the mouth, with gamey, roasted berry flavors. Turns minty on the finish, with a hint of herbal green. Fruity and nice but lacks that final gear. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

WineMag.com | 7 Spirits best buys

Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot Laird’s Applejack 90 271 Pinot Noir (Russian 92 (USA; Laird & Com- River Valley). Lots of sweet raspber- pany, Scobeyville, NJ). A ry and cherry fruit in this easy-to-drink Jack Rose cocktail wouldn’t be Pinot Noir. It’s nice and silky, with a the same without this historic spicy finish. Nice with grilled tuna, “blended brandy” spirit, blend- lamb or beef, and a good value for the ed from 35% apple brandy and price. Best Buy. —S.H. 65% neutral spirits. Smooth, abv: 14.4% Price: $14 Kirkland Signature 2009 Napa Cabernet warm and bright, with a rich, 86 Sauvignon (Napa County). All is proper juicy apple flavor and caramel and well done in this Cabernet, from the dryness and finish. Mouth-coating and very smooth tannins to the flavors of blackberries, currants soft in texture. and cedar. It’s a little thin, but the price is pretty good. abv: 40% Price: $18 —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $13

Paul Masson VS 89 Grande Amber Brandy (USA; Constellation Brands, Canandaigua, NY) This am- ber spirit is sweet, silky and sippable. It emits a warm vanil- la scent and honeyed flavor with hazelnut notes and a ginger zing. Moon Eyes 2006 Lapis Luna Cabernet Aged three years. 90 Sauvignon (Lodi). They packed a lot of fla- Kirkland Signature 2010 Pinot Noir (Rus- abv: 40% Price: $12 vor into this wine, then let it age for five years before 85 sian River Valley). Soft and sweet in raspber- releasing. It offers plenty of pleasure, at a great every- ries, cherries and anise liqueur, like a coffeehouse drink, day price. Soft and round, its flavors are of blackber- sprinkled with brown sugar and cinnamon. —S.H. ries, cherries, currants and cedar. Just delicious. Best abv: 13.9% Price: $13 Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $14 Spirits beer Paul Masson 93 VSOP Grande Amber Brandy (USA; Leinenkugel’s Big Constellation Brands, 90 Eddy Russian Impe- Canandaigua, NY). It’s rial Stout (Russian Impe- hard to say which is more rial Stout; Jacob Leinenku- surprising, the fact that this gel Brewing Company, WI). blend of American brandy Despite the elevated alcohol and French Cognac yields content of this brew, it actually such a Cognac taste-alike, drinks remarkably well, exhibit- or the remarkably gentle ing great balance between the pricing. It has a copper boozy warmth and sweet roas- penny color, boozy hazel- ty malt core. It pours a dark nut fragrance and a dry fla- brown color with a frothy tan Domino 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). vor with a powerful finish of head that lingers. Dried date, 89 What a pretty Pinot Grigio, at a really great allspice, espresso and cigar cherry and raisin aromas min- everyday­ price. Provides a crisp bite of acidity, brighten- tobacco. Good value. gle with more complex accents ing flavors of oranges, lemons, limes, green apples and abv: 40% Price: $14 of toffee, molasses and a soft honey. Super-drinkable with everything from little ap- mocha character. With present petizers to broiled chicken and Asian food. From Deli- but approachable hop bitter- cato. Best Buy. —S.H. ness, this is a nice alternative to abv: 13% Price: $7 some of the RIS palate bombs out there. abv: 9.5% Price: $11/12 oz 4 pack

8 | wine enthusiast | december 2011 best buys best buys best buys

Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Malbec (Mendo- Masked Rider 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- 86 za). Brushy and brambly smelling at first, then Redtree 2010 Chardonnay (California). 88 nia). With good acidity, a silky mouthfeel and cleaner and fruitier as it breathes. Full and juicy in the 85 Light in style and low in price and alcohol, this a dry finish, this is a pretty good Pinot Noir. It’s more mouth, with lightly toasted berry and plum flavors that Chard is tropical and slightly sweet, perfect for your balanced than many Pinots costing two or three times as register as regular but fresh. Long and linear on the fin- next-door neighbor or tippler aunt who doesn’t often much, which makes it a great value. The flavors are of ish. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. drink wine. For more experienced wine drinkers, the raspberries, cherries and red currants, with a touch of abv: 13.5% Price: $11 sweet doesn’t overextend its welcome. Fine for week- oak. Best Buy. —S.H. night roast chicken or pasta salad. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $8

Vintage Sun 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Malbec-Syrah 86 (Mendoza). The name and packaging scream 87 (Mendoza). Opens with tire rubber, char and “concept wine,” but what’s in the bottle will win you Vintage Sun 2010 Chardonnay (Men- minty, smoky black fruit. Feels mostly fresh and bold, over. It’s full and rubbery, with pleasant yet generic ber- 85 doza). Fairly mute on the nose, with an oily with blackberry, blueberry and coffee flavors. Just ry aromas. The palate is racy and fairly hefty and tan- note and peachy aromas. Basic in the mouth, with good dense, sweet and spicy enough, with espresso bitterness nic, with black raspberry, plum and mild herbal flavors. weight and balance along with oily flavors of peach and to the finish. Composed and competent value red wine. Grabby, with good acidity on the finish. Point Wine Im- melon. Sweet and waxy on the finish, with the flavor of Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. ports. Best Buy. —M.S. green banana. Point Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Domino 2010 Moscato (California). This 85 sweet dessert wine is riding the Moscato wave. It’s clean and brisk in acidity, with flavors of oranges, Vintage Sun 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- honey and vanilla. Nice picnic wine, or drink with a 85 doza). Sweet aromas of sugar cookie come Kirkland Signature 2008 Meritage (Napa weekend brunch. Best Buy. —S.H. with a pinch of citrus fruit. The mouth is plump, with 86 Valley). Lots of ripe, forward blackberry and abv: 11% Price: $7 just enough citric acidity to keep it together. Flavors of cherry fruit in this likeable wine. It’s a little on the pineapple, lemon, tangerine and grapefruit peel lead sweet, simple side, but nicely crafted, and the price is to a pithy, slightly bitter finish. Drink immediately; it’s good for what you get. Best Buy. —S.H. starting to fade. Point Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 9 While there are definite wood aromas, the fruit is all Martinez Gassiot NV Master’s Reserve Casal dos Jordões NV Reserve Ruby Dry rich syrup, with just the right amount of acidity. Mega- 88 Port. A wine that is structured, balanced with 87 Port. Dusty tannins, sweet fruit and chocolate wine Inc. —R.V. its acidity and sweet fruits. The character is very aro- all come together in a ripe and structured wine. There abv: 20% Price: $200 matic and textured, full of plum skins and bitter choco- is a smoky character to give complexity. The wine is well late. The finish has more acidity. Premium Port Wines, balanced with good final acidity. The Co. Inc. —R.V. —R.V. reserve/ruby port abv: NA Price: $19 abv: NA Price: $NA

Dow’s NV Trademark Finest Reserve Niepoort NV Ruby Reserve Port. A warm- Cockburn’s NV Special Reserve Port. Al- 89 Port. A dry wine, the sweetness overtaken by 88 hearted wine with acidity balanced by blackber- 87 though there is brandy spirit on the nose, the tannins, black currant stalkiness and acidity. It works ry and red fruits. The wine is soft, with some sweetness, palate is much more balanced. The wine has a rich well as a more serious style of Reserve Port, hinting at although the tannins do give a drier aftertaste. Martine’s feel to it, very fruity forward and attractive. It shows a aging potential. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. great jelly note on the finish. Premium Port Wines, Inc. abv: NA Price: $21 abv: NA Price: $18 —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18 Quinta de Ventozelo NV Reserve Ruby Quinta do Infantado NV Reserva Especial 89 Port. Delicious, attractive perfumed wine with 88 Port. Solid, chunky and tannic, the wine has a Croft NV Distinction Special Reserve sweet plum fruits edged with more stalky black cur- big structure and firm concentration. It is dry, smoky 87 Port. Full, ripe, attractively fruity Port, with rants. It has some weight and richness to go with the with a bitter chocolate edge and a black fruit aftertaste. soft tannins and rich berry fruits. It has plenty of fruit, firmer tannins. The wine is rich and well balanced. Sig- Louis Dressner Selections. —R.V. sweet strawberry flavors, deliciously full and rounded. nature Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Kobrand. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Quinta do Portal NV Cellar Reserve Port. Smith Woodhouse NV Lodge Reserve 88 A simple fruity wine, attractive all the way Maritávora NV Reserve Ruby Port. A fruity 89 Port. Structured wine, very perfumed, the aro- through, the berry flavors given balance with some tan- 87 wine, with a dry tannic edge that brings out a mas reflecting the delicious mix of black cherry, damson nins. The wine has structured currants and acidity to more black currant character. There is a good balance and spice flavors. The wine then shows strong tannins bring out extra character. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. of acidity to go with the sweetness, and suggestions of and a firm texture. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $24 bottle age to round the wine out. Vino . —R.V. abv: NA Price: $21 abv: NA Price: $22 Rozes NV Special Reserve Port. A ripe Taylor Fladgate NV First Estate Reserve 88 wine with soft tannins, full berry and plum fruits Quinta da Prelada NV Ruby Reserve Port. 89 Port. Dusty, perfumed tannins are suspended just touched by spice, acidity and a juicy aftertaste. The 87 On the dry side, with tannins and bitter choco- in a ripe and fruity wine, its damson skin texture given wine is finely balanced and lightly structured. Vranken late. The wine is full and ripe, quite dense in character, an extra boost by tannins. Very dark, concentrated wine, America. —R.V. some sweetness as well as acidity. Triage Wines. —R.V. full of character. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Vista Alegre NV Reserve Ruby Port. An at- Ramos-Pinto NV Collector Reserva Port Burmester NV Sotto Voce Reserve Port. 88 tractively ripe wine, although with its fair share 87 (Port). Dry in style, with a firm and tannic 88 Very jammy aromas, the wine is full and sweet, of tannins and stalky fruit. It has a good richness as well backbone. The wine also has acidity, giving it a styl- its tannins soft, with the acidity giving a tangy edge. as aromatic spice and violets. The final balance is ripe ish edge of dry, stalky fruit and raisins. The aftertaste Strawberry fruit shows strongly in the very fruity after- and structured. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. is sweeter, softer. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. taste. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $22 W. & J. Graham’s NV Six Grapes Reserve Churchill’s NV Finest Reserve Port. Dusty 88 Port. A dry wine, firmly tannic, although also Royal Oporto NV Ruby Port. Showing ini- 88 tannins lie easily on this perfumed, smoky wine. with acidity and black currant fruit. Spices and lico- 87 tial citric acidity, this moves towards firm tan- It is balanced, its sweetness layered with some acidity. rice add interest, while the tannins finish this attractive nins and a dry structure. It has weight, a serious side to Rich and smooth, although also structured and very at- wine. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. it, while solid, ripe and concentrated. Admiral Imports. tractive. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23 —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $NA Andresen NV Special Reserve Ruby Port. Fonseca NV Bin 27 Finest Reserve Port. 87 Ripe and full-bodied, with balanced acidity Sandeman NV Founder’s Reserve Port. 88 Full, rich and fruity wine, enticingly aromatic, and soft tannins. There is good strawberry fruit here as 87 Very jammy aromas here, while the wine is ripe with strawberry fruits and an easy, just tannic edge. The well as blackberry and darker plums. A dry aftertaste and full. It has a soft character, all plum and blackberry wine is soft, ripe, the fruits finely balanced with acidity. completes a satisfying wine. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. flavors, the tannins just showing at the end to balance. Kobrand. —R.V. —R.V. Pernod Ricard. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA

Lemos & Van Zeller NV Reserva Port. An Barão de Vilar NV Maynard’s Finest Re- Barão de Vilar NV Reserve Ruby Port. 88 attractively balanced wine, with just a stalky lay- 87 serve Port. Quite a dry wine, with stalky black 86 Very structured wine, ripe with its plum jelly er, black currant jelly, some herbs as well as spice. The currant fruits, tannins and acidity. The wine is balanced, flavors given shape by tannins and acidity. The wine is acidity shows through right at the end to give a lift to its dryness contrasting with red berry jam fruits. The af- full in the mouth allowing an attractive edge of tannins the firm tannins. Vinum Wine Importing and Distribut- tertaste is soft. Direct Wines. —R.V. at the end. First National Wines & Spirits. —R.V. ing LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA

10 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Delaforce NV Fine Ruby Port. Sweetly rich though it does feel dilute. There’s some dryness on the strawberry flavors with a bitter edge of acidity. Drink in 86 wine, with soft tannins giving a light structure. finish. The Organic Wine Co. —R.V. a cocktail or chilled. Vranken America. —R.V. There is some toffee, sweet juicy plums and black cher- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 20% Price: $20 ries. The wine is full, rich and ripe. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Casal dos Jordões NV Reserve Ruby La- abv: NA Price: $NA 84 grima Tinto Port. Easy and sweet wine, with Portugal tannins and strawberry jam flavors. The wine has a tof- Fonseca NV Terra Bella Reserve Port. A fee and caramel character that is full and ripe. The Or- sparkling wines 86 wine that is soft and fruity. The tannins are light, ganic Wine Co. —R.V. spiked with acidity and some bitter chocolate. The final abv: NA Price: $NA Caves Transmontanas 2007 CC & CP character is fruity, rich and soft. Kobrand. —R.V. 90 Pinot Noir (Vinho Espumante de Quali- abv: NA Price: $NA Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Car- dade). This is a serious , with richness 84 mo NV Clã Porto Special Reserva Port. as well as properly tense structure. It has weight, some Niepoort NV Junior Tinto Port. Violets and Smoke and chocolate flavors are overlain by toast flavors bottle age with yeast and toast as important as citric fruit 86 aromatic herbs give character to the wine, while that make this as much as Port. It is dry and flavors. The initials stand for the names of the two wine- the palate is dry, with good tannins to go with the cherry firm, the fruit a much lesser component than the other makers. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. and plum fruits. There is a good balance, the spice and flavors. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA chocolate richness adding interest. Martine’s Wines. abv: NA Price: $25 —R.V. Filipa Pato NV 3B Brut Nature Rosé (Bair- abv: NA Price: $25 Kopke NV Reserve Ruby Port. A wine that 90 rada). There is no dosage on this lightly pink, 83 has unbalanced acidity. Although the perfumes beautifully made wine. It has fresh crisp fruit, just hint- Quinta de la Rosa NV Finest Reserve are attractive, there is a stalky and dry character. Sogevi- ing at raspberry, floating easily to its final fresh finish. 86 Port. Concentrated, perfumed with aromat- nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. Laurel Importers. —R.V. ic violets and red berries. The wine has a rich charac- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $24 ter, showing berry fruits and light tannins that offer a rounded style. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing Krohn NV Rio Torto Reserva Port. Per- Murganheira 2004 Bruto Chardonnay LLC. —R.V. 83 fumed, with flavors of violet candies and very 90 (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade). Round- abv: NA Price: $20 soft tannins. The wine is too aromatic for its own good. ed, warm wine, its walnut and kiwi fruit balanced by a Megawine Inc. —R.V. soft texture. It has preserved its freshness, allowing the Quinta do Passadouro NV Ruby Reserva abv: NA Price: $NA acidity to shine through. A serious wine, as well as deli- 86 Port. A fruity Port, with plum and spice charac- cious, to drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. ter, very jammy and sweet. Touches of tannin and acid- Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Car- abv: 13% Price: $40 ity give balance to make the wine ripe, soft and full in 83 mo NV Reserve Port. Sweet chocolate and the mouth. Winebow. —R.V. blackberries initially give the wine a balance between Murganheira 1995 Reserva Especial abv: NA Price: $25 sweetness and fruitiness. The problem is the intrusion 90 Bruto Tinta Roriz (Vinho Espumante de of unbalanced brandy that gives the wine a final impres- Qualidade). One of the more impressive wines in the Warre’s NV Warrior Reserve Port. Bright sion of being tired. VOS Selections. —R.V. Murghaneira range, this is a mature, ripe wine, with 86 fruits in a Port with soft tannins and a structure abv: NA Price: $19 fine almond and toast flavors. It has elegance and bal- that pushes blackberry fruit and sweet jelly. The wine is ance, rounded while still fresh. Aidil Wines & Liquor soft, ripe, full, showing some dryness from tannins on Quinta Seara d’Ordens NV Reserva Ruby Inc. —R.V. the finish. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 83 Port. Dry and structured, with tannins and abv: 12.5% Price: $40 abv: NA Price: $19 stalky fruit. There is a strong, bitter cocoa character and layered acidity. This acidity is just on the right side of Murganheira 1998 Grande Reserva Bruto Offley NV Porto Wine Reserva Port.A unbalanced. Luso Imports. —R.V. 89 Assemblage (Vinho Espumante de Qual- 85 wine that shows acidity, then strawberry fruits abv: NA Price: $NA idade). Soft, sweet, smooth wine. Its age shows in a and light tannins. It has some concentration with choco- nutty character that boosts the attractive mature acidity. late and licorice flavors. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. Barros NV Special Reserve Port. The wine It is ripe, full in the mouth, well balanced for drinking abv: NA Price: $NA 82 tastes young, with unbalanced acidity and a hard with food. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. tannin and spirit edge. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Poças NV Special Reserve Ruby Port. —R.V. 85 Firmly dry wine but unfocused, the tannins abv: NA Price: $NA Caves Transmontanas NV Vértice Gou- dominating the fruit to a give a very dry character. It 88 veio Bruto (Douro). Made from the Gouveio could just be a young bottling that needs time to soften Quinta do Infantado NV Reserva Medium grapes, one of the Douro white grapes, this has weight and open. HGC Imports. —R.V. 82 Dry Port. Acidity, almonds and firm tannins are and some richness. The acidity is a balancing but not a abv: NA Price: $NA present, but the wine is dry and very light, with an awk- domiNAt factor. Ripe apples and a citrus edge go with ward, unbalanced citrus character. Louis Dressner Se- a feel of some bottle age. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Quevedo NV Reserve Ruby Port. Richly lections. —R.V. —R.V. 85 fruity, quite sweet with red berry fruits and light abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $NA acidity. There is a soft character and an attractive, easy finish. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. Luis Pato 2010 Quinta do Moinho Rosé abv: NA Price: $20 rosé port 88 Bruto Baga (Vinho Espumante de Quali- dade). As the base for a sparkling wine, Baga doesn’t Casal dos Jordões NV Finest Reserve Rozes NV Terras do Grifo Rosé Port. lose its tannic character. But it does offer great fruiti- 84 Port. Light, fresh and fruity, produced from 84 A Port for mixing, combining sweet crushed ness, an apple crispness and tight acidity. A sparkling organic grapes, this has some attractive berry fruits, al- wine for food. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 11 Casa do Valle 2005 Grande Reserva Bru- ter edge to it, although the final acidity does make it re- as minerality, the wine has all the right tension of Cha- 87 to (Vinho Verde). Classic bottle-fermented freshing. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. blis while benefiting from the warm pear, peach and al- wine, with yeast and citrus flavors, a creamy edge and a abv: 11.5% Price: $12 mond flavors. The citrus edge is very Chablis. Louis La- bright final acidity. The wine is crisp, lively with a clean tour Inc. —R.V. fresh aftertaste. Massanois Imports. —R.V. Raposeira 2002 Super Reserve Bruto abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 12% Price: $NA 84 (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade). Yeasty wine, with mature toast flavors, showing bitter almonds Domaine Laroche 2009 Vieilles Vignes Murganheira 2005 Blanc de Noirs Brut and old acidity. The wine tastes really mature, about to 92 Les Fourchaumes Premier Cru (Chablis). 87 Touriga Nacional (Vinho Espumante de be too old. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. While having the richness of the vintage, this wine also Qualidade). Full in the mouth, with attractive acid- abv: 11.5% Price: $15 has all the steely minerality of Chablis. Its acidity goes in ity and some weight, this feels rich. There is an initial a crisp line from the yellow and white fruits to the wood. earthy character, but this blows away to leave a ripe, Murganheira 2005 Super Reserva Bruto Still young, give the wine another 3–4 years. Screwcap. green plum- and strawberry-flavored wine. Aidil Wines 83 (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade). Rich, Cannon Wines Limited. Cellar Selection. —R.V. & Liquor Inc. —R.V. rather earthy in character, with strong yeast flavor. The abv: 12.5% Price: $50 abv: 12% Price: $32 wine has acidity, some peach flavors and final richness. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Domaine Laroche 2009 Les Vaudevey Murganheira 2005 Czar Rosé Bruto Pinot abv: 12% Price: $20 92 Premier Cru (Chablis). A young wine, its 87 Noir (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade). fruit only just settling with the fine acidity and intense An earthy, racy wine, ripe with strawberries and also Murganheira 2006 Tinto Bruto (Vinho texture. The potential is all there, from the wood-aged laced with acidity. It has some weight, softness, with a 81 Espumante de Qualidade). Red sparkling character to the freshest acidity to the rich peach and yeast character creeping in. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. wines are an acquired taste, and this is no exception. green plum flavors. The texture gives the wine a final —R.V. With an initial taste like black currant cordial it then re- tang. Screwcap. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 veals hard tannins that make it a tough wine to enjoy. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Caves Transmontanas 2008 Vértice Cu- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Preuses Grand 86 vée Reserva Bruto (Douro). Very appley 91 Cru (Chablis). Ripe, rich and soft, this is an wine, with high acidity and crispness. It’s a well-made opulent wine from a warm year. The acidity is there, bottle-fermented wine, with a good steel and mineral white burgundy masked by toast, apricot and melon flavors. It is already edge. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. drinkable, likely to continue to age over 3–4 years. Lou- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA chablis is Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $70 Luis Pato 2010 Duet (Beiras). A blend of Domaine Laroche 2009 Réserve de 86 two white grapes, Bical and Cerceal, Duet is a 95 l’Obédience Les Blanchots Grand Cru Domaine Laroche 2009 Vieilles Vignes warm, yeasty wine, its freshness given an earthy quality (Chablis). Very mineral in character, this young wine 90 Les Vaillons Premier Cru (Chablis). A along with star fruit flavors and a steely aftertaste. Aidil is all green fruit. The citrus and grapefruit are intense, finely textured wine, with its acidity and apple fruits Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. and full of ripe acidity. Hints of wood come from be- laced with wood and spice. It is rich, full in the mouth, abv: 12% Price: $NA hind the fruit to give a wine that is structured and finely a wine that has great pure flavors, very clear right to the textured. Age for 4–5 years. Screwcap. Cannon Wines end. Screwcap. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. Murganheira 2002 Velha Reserva Bruto Limited. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 86 (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade). Crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $150 and dry, this is a taut, nervy sparkling wine. It has kiwi Labouré-Roi 2009 Premier Cru Réserve and lime flavors, along with yeast. The acidity is a ma- Domaine Laroche 2009 Les Clos Grand 88 (Chablis). Peach and lemon combine in this jor element in its tight texture. Aidil Wines & Liquor 94 Cru (Chablis). Intensely perfumed, this su- superripe Chablis. Reflecting the warm vintage, the Inc. —R.V. premely ripe wine has kept all the dense structure of the wine is soft, laced with lime juice acidity and hinting abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Les Clos vineyard. Here is an impressive mix of tight at vanilla and thyme. Round and warm, it is not typical structure, ripe pear and citrus, layered with toast and Chablis, much more akin to a Meursault. Palm Bay In- Murganheira 2006 Reserva Bruto (Vinho great juicy acidity. Age for 4–5 years. Screwcap. Cannon ternational. —R.V. 85 Espumante de Qualidade). A young, bright Wines Limited. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $42 fruity wine, packed with creamy mousse. The wine has a abv: 12.5% Price: $120 fresh green apple character, lively with a zing to it. Aidil Domaine Laroche 2009 Saint-Martin Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Les Clos Grand 86 (Chablis). With a distinct smoothness from abv: 12% Price: $18 94 Cru (Chablis). For full review see page 3. wood, this is soft and ripe. It shows delicious toast, pear Cellar Selection. and melon flavors, lightened with some final acidity. Raposeira 1999 Velha Reserva Bruto abv: 13% Price: $70 Screwcap. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. 85 (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade). A wine abv: 12% Price: $24 that is beginning to show its age, with yeast and toast Domaine Laroche 2009 Les Blanchots dominating the fresh acidity and the broad, creamy 93 Grand Cru (Chablis). Hugely rich wine, re- Domaine L. Chatelain 2010 Chablis. So character. It has a light texture, with a bite of steel to taining its tense textured character while reveling in 85 soft, the wine is gently fruity, a hint of its chalk give the wine a final shape. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. white fruit ripeness. Concentrated, with the wood acid- soil through a mineral edge. Fresh and tasting of lime —R.V. ity and spice mingling with the fruit acidity, this is a wine and apple fruits, it is ready to drink now. Saranty Im- abv: 11.5% Price: $18 for long-term aging, powerful yet always very crisp. ports. —R.V. Screwcap. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 Raposeira NV Reserva Bruto (Vinho abv: 13% Price: $95 84 Espumante de Qualidade). Very yeasty Jaffelin 2009 Chablis. Soft and rounded, al- wine, with almonds and apple skin flavors. It has a bit- Simonnet-Febvre 2009 Blanchot Grand 84 most with some sweetness, this is a light, simple 93 Cru (Chablis). Packed with rich fruit as well

12 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 wine. It has some apple and melon flavors, lined with côte d’or grand cru and yellow fruits. The citrus lends its acidity to tighten acidity. Drink now. Epic Wines. —R.V. up a finely structured, ageworthy wine. Luxe Vintages. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Olivier Leflaive 2009 Bâtard-Montrach- Cellar Selection. —R.V. 96 et. Mineral, steel and toast set this impressive, abv: 13% Price: $NA well-structured wine on to the road for aging. Behind regional wines this initially severe, very young exterior is the richest Pierre André 2009 Genevrières Premier yellow and white fruit, exuding power, concentration 92 Cru (Meursault). With its initial toast flavors, Domaine Chavy-Chouet 2010 Les and density. Give it 6–8 years and many more. Fred- this is a wine that is made for aging. It has weight and 86 Femelottes (Bourgogne). From old vines, erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. opulence to go with the structure and sweet fruits. The a soft and creamy wine, with a toast and citrus edge. abv: 13.5% Price: $350 peaches combine with citrus in a delicious counterpoint There is some concentration here, the acidity bringing to the structure. Age for 3–4 years. William Harrison out spice and final ripeness. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2009 Corton-Char- Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $23 95 lemagne. As always, Corton-Charlemagne of- abv: 13% Price: $NA fers an opulent Chardonnay. In this vintage, the wine Labouré-Roi 2009 Maximum (Bour- has intense tropical fruits, very ripe although never los- Pierre André 2008 Genevrières Premier 86 gogne). The latest vintage of Labouré-Roi’s ing sight of its acidity. There is terrific concentration 92 Cru (Meursault). With less of the generosity oak-aged Bourgogne Blanc is showing some good rich here, giving a wine that is very rich. Frederick Wildman of Meursault and more of the structure, this is a com- apple and pear flavors with a creamy texture and just the & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. plex and concentrated wine that deserves aging. Yellow right amount of toasty oak. Gentle acidity completes a abv: 13.5% Price: $182 fruits and their acidity dominate what is also a toast- fine ensemble. Palm Bay International. —R.V. laden wine. It has weight, richness and potential. David abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Roux Père et Fils 2008 Corton-Char- Milligan Selections. —R.V. 93 lemagne. All structure and textured fruit, this abv: 13% Price: $NA Simonnet-Febvre 2010 Bourgogne. Com- is a wine for the long term. All the elements are there, 86 ing from the more northerly parts of Burgundy, although restrained by the vintage. The yellow fruits Pierre André 2008 Les Blanchots Pre- this is cool Chardonnay, with steel and minerality. It is are more peach than apricot, while wood is still domi- 91 mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). An firmly textured, its apple and quince flavors coming with NAt. But it does have the power and should be aged obviously wood-aged wine that remains young. The a more citrus element. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. for 4–5 years. Wine Warehouse Imports. Cellar Selec- acidity from the toast is still blending with the acidity abv: 12.5% Price: $16 tion. —R.V. from the pineapple and apricots. The wine, though, has abv: 13.5% Price: $NA great potential, ready to show off its ripe fruits and gor- Pierre André 2009 Réserve (Bourgogne). geous structure. Keep for 2-3 years. William Harrison 85 For a simple white Burgundy, this is impressive- Imports. —R.V. ly rich, its pear and ripe apple fruits boosted by pineap- côte d’or premier cru abv: 13% Price: $NA ple, spice and toast. It has good weight and a long, fresh finish. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2009 Les Pucelles Pre- Roux Père et Fils 2008 Clos des Poruzots abv: 12.5% Price: $18 94 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). An impres- 91 Premier Cru (Meursault). This Poruzots of- sive wine, very much for aging. It has rich fruit, laced fers a restrained version of Meursault, very structured, Vincent 2008 JJ Chardonnay (Bour- with the purest acidity, lemon vying with ripe white its texture severe and tight. Apple skin and green plum 85 gogne). The simple white Burgundy from the peaches. With great richness come weight and inten- fruits go with the dry toast character. Age for a year for Vincent family of Château de Fuissé comes from the sity, the toast giving an extra dimension. Age for 4–6 more ripe flavors to emerge. Wine Warehouse Imports. Mâcon region. It’s a light, fresh and appleitinged clean years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selec- —R.V. wine with an attractive touch of toast. Frederick Wild- tion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $137 abv: 13% Price: $18 Château de la Crée 2008 Beaurepaire Olivier Leflaive 2009 Champ Gain Pre- 90 Premier Cru (Santenay). Although it is bet- Jaffelin 2009 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin 93 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Dominat- ter known for its reds, Santenay does produce white 84 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Attractive rich ed by its toasty wood flavors, this is a wine still under de- wine. This soft, generous, yellow fruit-flavored wine has Chardonnay, balancing creamy fruit flavors against velopment. It has weight, the fruit offering great poten- fine acidity, layers of toast, a golden glow offering drink- acidity. It does have some freshness, the acidity giving tial richness. Spice, lime fruits and a firm, steely core all ing pleasure now. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. an apple edge to the softness. For drinking now. Epic promise to come together into a fine wine in five years. abv: 13% Price: $NA Wines. —R.V. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $100 Pierre André 2008 Premier Cru (Saint- 90 Aubin). A finely balanced wine, bringing to- Louis Chevallier 2009 Chardonnay Olivier Leflaive 2009 Les Folatières Pre- gether the new wood flavors with structured tropical 84 (Bourgogne). A light and softly fruity wine, 93 mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A gor- fruits. Plangent acidity is the binding agent, giving an its acidity giving a lift to the yellow fruits and toast that geously ripe wine, its rounded yellow fruits tempered excitingly refreshing wine with a bright finish. William rounds out the acidity. Clean and attractive. Massanois by wood aging. There is a mineral core, with a steely Harrison Imports. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. character to go with the pure pleasures of the rich fruit. abv: 13% Price: $36 abv: 12% Price: $18 The wine is fruity now, and does need to age to bring out the rest of its complex flavors. Frederick Wildman Pierre André 2008 Le Rognet Premier Cave de Genouilly 2010 Aligoté (Bour- & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 88 Cru (Ladoix). A severe wine, its structure de- 84 gogne Aligoté). Crisp wine, with some slight abv: 13.5% Price: $137 riving from an important wood element and fruit tan- creaminess, green apple flavors and a herbal edge. The nins. It brings out apple and green plum skins, with a wine is light and fresh. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Château de la Crée 2008 Morgeot Pre- tangy texture that demands a few months aging. William abv: 12.5% Price: $18 92 mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Very Harrison Imports. —R.V. mineral textured wine, speaking of limestone soil. It bal- abv: 13% Price: $56 ances a toasty, smoky character against the ripest green

WineMag.com | 13 côte d’or Villages Roux Père et Fils 2009 Clos des Mollepi- texture under tension. Age for 5–6 years. Frederick 88 erres (Rully). The Roux family, based in Saint- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Labouré-Roi 2008 Les Chevaliers (Meur- Aubin, is a specialist in wines from the villages in the abv: 13.5% Price: $62 91 sault). For full review see page 5. hills above the Côte de Beaune. This full-bodied wine is abv: 12.5% Price: $49 still closed, wood and peach flavors still emerging. Keep Jacques Charlet 2009 Les Vieux Murs it for 1–2 years to reveal the richness. Wine Warehouse 92 (Pouilly-Fuissé). A mineral and ripe wine, full Vincent Sauvestre 2009 Clos des Tes- Imports. —R.V. of yellow fruits along with a tight, steely texture. The 91 sons (Meursault). A beautifully ripe and abv: 13% Price: $NA combination gives the wine structure and richness, of- rounded wood-aged wine. It brings out all the opu- fering ripe complexity and the potential to age. David lence of Meursault while keeping a tight, textured ele- Jaffelin 2008 Chassagne-Montrachet. Bowler Wine. —R.V. ment as counterpoint. The wood flavors are beginning 87 Structured, tight wine, with obvious wood char- abv: 13% Price: $30 to blend into the lychee and peach flavors, promising acter. It has an apple skin texture, giving it a steely edge. an even richer experience in a few months. Veritas Im- On the other side, the wine has pear and sweet apri- Château de Fuissé 2009 Tête de Cru ports. —R.V. cot fruits add some richness to this ready-to-drink wine. 91 (Pouilly-Fuissé). A selection from different abv: 13% Price: $46 Epic Wines. —R.V. parcels in the Château de Fuissé vineyard, this is a rich abv: 13% Price: $50 wine, initially soft, then showing a more textured char- Pierre André 2009 Puligny-Montrachet. acter. It has weight, concentration, the wood adding an- 90 A big ripe wine, full of tropical fruits that are Pierre André 2009 Rully. Soft and rounded, other dimension to an already complex wine. Frederick balanced by grapefruit and final acidity. There is just a 87 this is an open style of Chardonnay from one of Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. hint of toast, very discreet, rounding out this beautifully the great values in the Côte d’Or of Burgun- abv: 13.5% Price: $39 structured wine. The finish offers a great range of com- dy. The wine has richness, wood layers, flavors of peach, plex flavors. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. herbs and vanilla. It is attractively ready to drink now. Château de Fuissé 2009 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13.5% Price: $NA William Harrison Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 91 (Pouilly-Fuissé). A rich and concentrated, abv: 13% Price: $26 yellow fruit-dominated wine. This is white Burgundy Roux Père et Fils 2009 Vieilles Vignes at its most opulent, dense and generous. The wood is 90 (Meursault). Slow to show its quality, with a Jaffelin 2008 Meursault. Attractive open sweet, reinforcing the delicious character of this wine. little aeration this becomes a superripe wine, its wood 86 yellow fruits have produced a wine that is so Age for 4–5 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. element dominated by the intense tropical fruits. There soft. Its texture is light, with a citrus character that runs —R.V. is some balancing restraint in the citrus character, along with the wood. The finish has a more mineral texture. abv: 13.5% Price: $62 with the acidity. Enjoy now. Wine Warehouse Imports. Epic Wines. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 Domaine du Chalet Pouilly 2009 Eléve abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 en Fûts de Chêne (Pouilly-Fuissé). Rich, Jaffelin 2008 Puligny-Montrachet. Very creamy wood-aged wine that shows pear, apple and Château de la Crée 2009 Les Tillets 86 mineral wine, with considerable acidity, apple toast flavors ane even a hint of honey. Smooth and tex- 89 (Meursault). A richly textured wine showing and grapefruit flavors. Flavors from wood give an ex- tured, it has fine final spice and acidity to add further the more opulent side of Meursault. Toast and white tra character to this wine, which is ready to drink. Epic interest. Massanois Imports. —R.V. fruits are suffused with a ripe texture of peach skins. Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.6% Price: $NA There is a delicious, rounded character here, although abv: 13% Price: $50 with its texture, the wine could age for 3–4 years. Luxe Loron et Fils 2005 Les Vieux Murs Vieilles Vintages. —R.V. 90 Vignes (Pouilly-Fuissé). Soft wine, now ripe abv: 13% Price: $NA pouilly-fuissé and open, its fruit just masking almonds, toast and sweet cream. The acidity gives backbone to this mature wine Pierre André 2009 Chassagne-Montrach- Château de Fuissé 2009 Les Combettes which is concentrated yet with a touch of acidity and 89 et. A soft, perfumed wine, with yellow fruits, 93 (Pouilly-Fuissé). A firm, warm wine that ap- spice. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. green plums and an orange zest texture. It is pure and pears closed up at this young stage in its career. It is abv: 13.5% Price: $35 fresh, emphasizing acidity as well as fruit. There is a de- structured with a firm and steely edge, the wine hinting licious, fresh character to this ready-to-drink wine. Wil- at red apple, green plum and orange zest that balance Domaine Delorme et Fils 2009 Sur la liam Harrison Imports. —R.V. with the toast. It could well age 7–8 years. Frederick 88 Roche (Pouilly-Fuissé). A delicious cream abv: 13% Price: $NA Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. and lemon Chardonnay. It is rich, while still presenting abv: 13.5% Price: $62 a more steely core that comes from the chalk soil. The Pierre André 2008 Chassagne-Montrach- wine finishes with more tropical fruit flavors, pineapple 89 et. Steely, mineral, structured, this is a - Château de Fuissé 2009 Le Clos (Pouilly- and yellow peaches. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. driven wine. The wood, carefully balanced, supports 92 Fuissé). With its superripe grapes, this is a rich abv: 13% Price: $29 this very textured character, while the pear and peach wine from a walled single vineyard. Flavors of sweet fruits add a further layer. It’s a wine for aging, with its apricots, melon and some spices from the oak aging give Labouré-Roi 2009 Vallon d’Or (Pouilly- rich acidity pushing it on its way. William Harrison Im- complexity to the this dense, structured wine that de- 87 Fuissé). A superrich wine, full of apricot and ports. —R.V. serves aging for 5–7 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Golden Delicious apples, with a touch of wood that abv: 13% Price: $NA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. rounds out the chalky, mineral texture. The wine is a de- abv: 13.5% Price: $62 licious balance between ripe fruit and structure, ready Pierre André 2008 Meursault. With its to drink. Palm Bay International. —R.V. 89 rounded texture and smooth wood and yellow Château de Fuissé 2009 Les Brûlés abv: 13% Price: $20 fruits, this is a generous wine. It has weight and some 92 (Pouilly-Fuissé). One of the Vincent fam- richness tempered with acidity and a prominent apple ily’s single-vineyard wines from Les Brûlés, a hot south- Labouré-Roi 2010 Vallon d’Or (Pouilly- skin character. In another few months, the wine’s rich- facing slope (hence the name, meaning “burnt”). The 86 Fuissé). Named after the almost gold appear- ness will show better. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. wine, though, has all the right mineral characters, the ance of the Chardonnay vines at time, this is a abv: 13% Price: $45 wood finely integrated into yellow fruits, melon and a soft wine, with hints of the mineral tang that embodies

14 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Pouilly Fuissé. It has pear and white peach fruit flavors, côte chalonnaise pierced with acidity. A great wine as an apéritif or to go soft and ready to drink. Palm Bay International. —R.V. with cold cuts. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Labouré-Roi 2009 Réserve Premier Cru abv: 12% Price: $NA 91 (Montagny). For full review see page 5. Louis Chevallier 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé. abv: 13% Price: $28 Domaine de la Rouletière 2010 Sec (Vou- 86 Very ripe wine that tastes of the heat and sun- 90 vray). Floral wine, enticingly perfumed. It is shine of the vintage. It is warm, the peach and pine- Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos Rochette dry, nutty, layered with acidity. White fruits and pine- apple flavors partnering the toast and spicy vanilla. The 87 (Mercurey). This is rounded, rich, missing apple go with the intense lime. Worth aging for at least a wine has some power, maybe missing out on acidity. some acidity but with the compensation of ripe yellow year, maybe more. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Massanois Imports. —R.V. fruits layered with pineapple and spice from wood. With abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $20 all its sweetness, it is not for aging. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Chateau Moncontour 2010 Demi-Sec Vincent 2009 Marie-Antoinette (Pouilly- abv: 13% Price: $31 88 (Vouvray). A well-balanced off-dry Vouvray. It 86 Fuissé). Produced from the young vines of has almond as well as ripe pear and apple flavors, laced Château de Fuissé, this wine is soft and rounded with with the acidity of 2010, although never losing its deli- just enough acidity to go with the sweet peach flavors. loire whites cate sweetness. This should age for 3–4 years. Screw- It’s a gentle wine, ready to drink now. Frederick Wild- cap. USA Wine West. —R.V. man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. sancerre abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $27 Roger et Didier Raimbault 2009 Vieilles Domaine de Vaugondy 2010 Demi-Sec Pierre André 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé. While it 92 Vignes (Sancerre). There is considerable 87 (Vouvray). The off-dry version of Vaugon- 83 has some attractive apple fruits, the wine misses power to this wine, its rich, smooth texture offering dy’s Vouvray brings out ripe apple as well as pineapple out on the real minerality and texture of Pouilly Fuissé. pear and peach fruits as well as a more typical herbal and lemon flavors. It is still crisp, packed with acidity, It’s a wine hidden behind net drapes, indistinct. William character. An impressive and concentrated wine, with a rounded out with finishing sweetness. European Wine Harrison Imports. —R.V. powerfully intense finish. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 11% Price: $15

Michel Vattan 2010 Sancerre. Intense, con- Domaine de Vaugondy 2010 Sec (Vou- maconnais 90 centrated wine with herbaceous flavors allied to 86 vray). Rounded and smooth wine, with rich gooseberry, pink grapefruit and a steely edge of acid- apricot and nectarine flavors as well as tight acidity. It is Labouré-Roi 2009 St Amand (Mâcon-Vil- ity. With its powerful fruits, it is worth aging for a few structured, pear and apple skins giving shape to a wine 87 lages). Fresh, simple, apple-flavored wine, months. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. that is good to drink now and will also age. European with an edge of citrus and soft vanilla flavors. The wine abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Wine Imports. —R.V. is attractive and clean with elegance coupled to ripe abv: NA Price: $15 fruit. Palm Bay International. —R.V. Guy Saget 2010 Domaine de la Perrière abv: 12.5% Price: $13 89 (Sancerre). A more rounded, full-bodied style Domaine du Petit Coteau 2010 Les Gre- of Sancerre, pushing aromatic fruits, kiwi and grapefruit 85 nouilles Sec (Vouvray). This is Chenin Louis Chevallier 2009 Mâcon-Villages. along with its intense acidity. There is a mineral edge, Blanc at its crispest, a mouthfilling burst of perfumed 85 A ripe and rounded wine, with friendly apricot coming from the chalk soil of Sancerre. Age for a few acidity. The flavors are dominated by melon, lemon and and lemon flavors, richly toasty, leaving great acidity and months. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. a hint of almonds. A great apéritif wine. Chartrand Im- bright fruits at the end. Massanois Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $17 Roger et Didier Raimbault 2010 Les Cave de Lugny 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Mâ- 89 Belles Côtes (Sancerre). A fine expression Pierre Chainier 2009 Roc de Châteauvi- 84 con-Villages). A light and very fresh wine. It of mineral Sauvignon Blanc, very textured with green 84 eux (Vouvray). An off-dry wine, nuts and pear has layers of citrus, some vanilla and pure acidity that herb and fruit skins giving a tense shape to a wine that flavors, laced with almonds. The wine is soft, with hints cuts right through to give a refreshing aftertaste. Paster- could age. It’s finely balanced, the refreshing acidity of red currants and a gentle, ripe aftertaste. Screwcap. nak Wine Imports. —R.V. cutting right through the wine. Serge Doré Selections. Vinum International . —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Jaffelin 2009 Les Villages de Jaffelin Bougrier 2010 Doulce France V (Vou- 84 (Mâcon-Péronne). Mâcon-Péronne is one of Xavier Flouret 2010 Domaine Chatelain 82 vray). Off-dry Vouvray, with hints of honey, the smaller Mâcon villages, producing soft, apple and 88 French Blonde (Sancerre). Rounded while light on acidity and feeling soft. The wine needs to be cream wines. There is an attractive touch of bright cit- still fresh, this is a full-bodied Sancerre, the Sauvignon drunk over the next year. Saranty Imports. —R.V. rus acidity to go with this rounded, open wine. Epic Blanc herbal flavors given more character with touches abv: 12% Price: $13 Wines. —R.V. of green apple, bold lime and grapefruit. Ready to drink abv: 13% Price: $20 over the next several months. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA other whites Labouré-Roi 2010 St Amand (Mâcon- 84 Villages). Light, rather indistinct wine. It has Guy Saget 2010 Le Domaine (Pouilly-Fu- some green apple fruit, green pepper and bitter al- vouvray 91 mé). Full, rich wine, with a concentrated struc- monds. The style is clean, attenuated, although simple ture to go with the pineapple and apple juice flavors. and balanced at the end. Palm Bay International. —R.V. Domaine de la Rouletière 2010 Demi-Sec Still young, the wine should age for a year, to fill out the abv: 12.5% Price: $13 90 (Vouvray). Quince and pear fruits dominate structure and give final richness. Pasternak Wine Im- this off-dry wine. It has a hint of honey, its ripe fruit ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 15 Domaine du Fief aux Dames 2010 Sur lie otic fruit characters. This is ripe, the acidity well inte- brings freshness as well as brilliant acidity. The finish is 88 (Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine). Rich Musca- grated. Citrus and toast mix with ripe apricot and pine- textured, very fresh. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. det, with lemon, green herb and pear flavors, rounded apple. It exudes the more seductive side of this famous abv: 12.5% Price: $65 with some tangy weight. There is some density as well brand, now mature, but still very much alive. Pernod as intense acidity. Drink this winter. Tenzing Wine and Ricard. —R.V. Beaumont des Crayères NV Grand Rosé Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA 87 Brut (). Perfumed raspberry fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 vors dominate this soft wine. It has an edge of crisp cit- Charles Ellner 2001 Séduction Brut rus, with orange zest to go with the acidity. The wine’s Guy Saget 2010 Les Clissages d’Or sur 92 (Champagne). Ripe, fruity Champagne, with main character is gentle, fresh and light. Masciarelli 87 lie (Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine). Tight acid- a great toast element that creates a rich and structured Wine Co. —R.V. ity, fresh fruit, with lightness and poise. It shows flavors wine. It has fine tropical fruits, laced with intense acid- abv: 12% Price: $45 of apple, lemon and herbs with a crisp seafood-friendly ity. Dominated by Chardonnay, this is an impressive aftertaste. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. wine that is now ready to drink. Massanois Imports. Nicolas Feuillatte NV Rosé Brut (Cham- abv: 12% Price: $NA —R.V. 87 pagne). Orange-tinted rosé, a rounded, soft abv: 12% Price: $53 and peach-flavored wine. It has fine freshness, soft acid- Villebois 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (To- ity and a ripe aftertaste. An attractive apéritif style. Ste. 86 uraine). A fruity wine, full of grapefruit, lime Lallier 2005 Grand Cru Brut (Cham- Michelle Wine Estates. —R.V. and melon flavors, cut with passion fruit acidity. The 91 pagne). While the style is soft, full of yellow abv: 12% Price: $48 wine has a light texture with a zesty edge, clean and to- fruit richness, the wine also show an excellent concen- tally ready to drink. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. trated texture. The fresh fruit is integrated into this abv: 12% Price: $12 more complex style. The aftertaste shows some softness, Other french bubbly but the wine can certainly age for several years. Massa- Bougrier 2010 Domaine Guenault Sauvi- nois Imports. —R.V. crémant de 85 gnon Blanc (Touraine). Full in the face Sau- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA vignon Blanc, with a cough drop bite, tense with acidity. bourgogne It has ripe green fruits and lime zest. Drink now. Sa- Charles Ellner 2001 Millésime Brut ranty Imports. —R.V. 90 (Champagne). A taut, mineral wine with a Louis Bouillot NV Perle d’Aurore Rosé abv: 12% Price: $15 domiNAce of Chardonnay to give the crispest citrus and 87 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). With its a very textured feel. Definitely dry, the wine, not from strawberry flavor and tight acidity, this is an attractive, Château Routas 2009 Coquelicot Viog- a classic vintage year, seems still young and all fruit, so clean sparkling wine. It has just the right balance be- 85 nier-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays Var). With it would be worth aging for 3–4 years. Massanois Im- tween acidity and bright fruit, leaving a textured after- a strong toast element, this is perhaps too woody, not ports. —R.V. taste. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. fruity enough. There is a burnt character that smothers abv: 12% Price: $51 abv: 12% Price: $20 the fruit, although the texture suggests some roundness. USA Wine West. —R.V. Beaumont des Crayères 2003 Fleur Noir Louis Bouillot NV Perle de Nuit Blanc abv: 14% Price: $17 89 Blanc de Noirs Brut (Champagne). A 87 de Noirs Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, this is a rich Warm and rounded wine, with almond flavor and the Bougrier 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de Champagne. It has layers of red currant fruits and in- ripe red fruits to go with the intense and balancing acid- 84 Pays du Val de Loire). Simple, herbaceous tense acidity. There is some toast coming through as this ity. The wine is rich, while also well textured, giving fine Sauvignon Blanc, straight down the line of citrus acid- wine has aged. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. final acidity. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. ity and light spice. Drink now. Screwcap. Saranty Im- abv: 12% Price: $59 abv: 12% Price: $22 ports. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $11 Jaffelin NV J. Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cré- nonvintage 83 mant de Bourgogne). Very apply sparkling Villebois 2010 Petit Villebois Sauvignon wine, with soft acidity. It is light in texture, some sweet- 84 Blanc (Vin de Pays du Val de Loire). From Beaumont des Crayères NV Grand Pres- ness adding a soft edge. There is an attractive final or- young vines, this is a very tangy, citrus-driven wine, full 90 tige Brut (Champagne). A steely, mineral- ange zest flavor. Epic Wines. —R.V. of lemon zest with a strong herb and barnyard character. driven Champagne, dry with signs of toasty bottle age. abv: 12% Price: $17 Acidity is intense. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. The wine is also crisp, layered with intense apples and abv: 12.5% Price: $11 citrus. The fruit and the more mature character are right Louis Bouillot NV Perle d’Ivoire Blanc de in balance at this stage. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. 83 Blancs Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). abv: 12% Price: $45 Rather dull, soapy wine, its fruit missing the right crisp- champagne ness. There are flavors of pear, yellow fruits, just not Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Champagne enough acidity. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. vintage 89 Blend (Champagne). One of the best-selling abv: 12% Price: $22 in the world, this Brut has a great fruity Taittinger 2005 Millésimé Brut (Cham- character, full of green apples with tangy acidity and an 94 pagne). A superbly balanced wine that boasts finish that is soft while crisp. Ste. Michelle Wine Es- French Rosés a seamless intensity of apple fruits, soft citrus and beau- tates. —R.V. tiful acidity. It has its rich moments, with a hint of pine- abv: 12% Price: $36 côtes de provence apple, easily absorbed into the great elegance. Kobrand. —R.V. Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des Château Castel de Maures 2010 Cu- abv: 12% Price: $NA 88 Moines Brut Blanc de Blancs (Cham- 90 vée Jeanne Rosé (Côtes de Provence). pagne). This is a soft, creamed apple wine, with touch- A beautifully balanced wine, its acidity lacing through Perrier Jouët 1995 Fleur de Champagne es of toast. It has a great lemon zest character that the smooth apricot and orange zest flavors and riper 93 (Champagne). Soft and round, with more ex- red fruits. It does show richness and weight, although

16 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 always with great freshness. Total Beverage Solution. Vendôme’s situation, north of the River Loire, natural- red burgundy Best Buy. —R.V. ly lends itself to this bright style of rosé. It has a fine abv: NA Price: $13 structure, forward red fruits and a light vanilla touch, grand cru well balanced and ready for food. Fruit of the Vines, Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Prestige Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos des Cortons Inc. —R.V. 90 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). An intensely 94 Faiveley (Corton). While the aroma has pro- fresh wine, with considerable acidity offering a lively abv: 13% Price: $NA nounced new wood characters, the palate is more sub- edge to what is a serious rosé. It’s definitely for food, its tle, emphasizing the powerful dark fruits, coffee note fruits given a firm texture by the lemon zest and acidity. Fournier Père et Fils 2010 Les Belles Vi- and sweet fruit tannins as much as wood. With a deli- European Wine Imports. —R.V. 86 gnes Rosé (Sancerre). Full in the mouth, cious, opulent full-bodied feel to it, this will age well abv: 12.5% Price: $26 laced with texture and acidity, this red currant-flavored over 5–6 years and more. Frederick Wildman & Sons, wine is crisp, with an herbal character, ready to drink Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Cuvée but could last over the winter. David Milligan Selec- abv: 13.5% Price: $200 89 Spéciale Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Rela- tions. —R.V. tively rich in character, with toast and yeast flavors offer- Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2001 abv: 12.5% Price: $26 ing a contrast to the more tropical fruit flavors. There is 94 (Charmes-Chambertin). Solid and firm, this dry spice and finely balanced acidity that offer a further is a wine with a considerable future. The plum and ripe Les Vignerons du Vendômois 2010 Mon- dimension to this full-bodied wine. European Wine Im- berries are changing into a more mature, smoky, under- tagne Blanche (Coteaux du Vendômois). ports. —R.V. 86 growth character. The structure and the texture remain, abv: 12.5% Price: $20 From Vendôme on the River Loir north of the Loire with elegant perfumed fruits alongside the ripe tannins. itself, this is a dry, lightly perfumed wine with a tight Age for 3–4 years. Holiday Beverage. Cellar Selection. Domaine de Pontefract 2010 Rosé (Côtes tannic edge as well as bright citrus and pink grapefruit —R.V. 89 de Provence). While it is full-bodied, this rosé flavors. A rosé for food. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $240 is also freshly structured, the acidity giving a refresh- abv: 12% Price: $NA ing character to the berry fruits. The wine is perfumed, Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2000 Clos Vougeot. with a touch of spice, vanilla and an orange zest after- Villebois 2010 Rosé (Vin de Pays du Val 92 A perfumed wine that smells and taste. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. tastes mature. While it still has some sweet strawberry de Loire). This lightly colored blend of Caber- abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 fruit, secondary flavors of coffee, toast and mature acid- net Franc and brings out an attractive perfumed ity dominate. It is not likely to improve much with fur- Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Brezette character, red currant and wild strawberries. It is dry, ther keeping, but is a delectable Pinot Noir now. Holi- 84 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a light, feeling rich with acidity cutting straight through. Screw- day Beverage. —R.V. breezy wine with soft flavors and clean, tight fruit. A cap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $400 good apéritif style. Turquoise Life. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2000 Domaine de Pontefract 2010 Domaine 91 (Charmes-Chambertin). This is showing a 85 du Vieux Moulin Rosé (Vin de Pays Var). mature, browning color. The palate echoes that it is just other provence There is light acidity on this fresh, gently fruity wine. It beginning to dry out, although for the next year or two it will still be a delicious, mature wine. The tannins are does have a textured edge with plum skin acidity and a Domaine de la Chapelle Saint-Victor 2010 dark, with some sweetness as well as final acidity. Holi- 88 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). With fresh aftertaste. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. day Beverage. —R.V. some weight behind it, this is a rich wine, spicy and ripe- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $240 ly fruity. The red berry fruits offer a sweet edge, with a tannic character that turns the wine very food friendly. Les Vignerons des de la Noëlle A rosé for cold weather. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 85 2010 Le Logis du Gouverneur Rosé (Co- premier cru abv: NA Price: $NA teaux d’Ancenis). Ancenis is a small area to the east of NAtes, across the Loire from Muscadet. This vivid Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2002 Fon- Ravoire et Fils 2010 Le Pont Rosé (Ban- pink-colored Gamay is a dry rosé with a light tannic 93 teny Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). dol). Attractively colored wine with red berry Still youthful, this traditional wine from a great Burgun- 87 character, brightened by red currant acidity. Fruit of fruits and an edge of bitter cherries, almonds and per- dy vintage is showing fine vigor, ripe fruits and firm tan- the Vines, Inc. —R.V. fumed acidity. The wine is structured, spicy, full-bodied nins. It has spice and is almost honeyed in its sweetness, in character. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA with plums and intense, mature acidity. With its firm abv: 13% Price: $21 core, give this wine several more years of aging. Holiday Bougrier 2010 Rosé d’Anjou. Very candy- Beverage. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 83 flavored wine, the color vivid pink and the fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $134 other french rosés vors just as garish, with strawberry sweetness, a touch of caramel balanced with lemon sherbet acidity. Screwcap. Pierre André 2009 Clos de la Commarine Cave de Saumur 2010 Réserve des Vi- Saranty Imports. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Pommard). Typical Pommard, 87 gnerons Rosé (Saumur). Perfumed dry rosé abv: 11% Price: $13 with its initially severe tannins. The wine then shows with a touch of smokiness to go with the full and ripe its potential for rich fruit, in its round plum flavors, the red berry fruit. It is well balanced, with attractive acid- tannins offering support. It is a concentrated, chunky Les Vignerons des Terroirs de la Noëlle ity and a light final touch of caramel. Fruit of the Vines, wine, the final acidity adding freshness. William Har- 2010 Les Ligeriens (Rosé d’Anjou). Typi- Inc. —R.V. 83 rison Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA cally semi-sweet style of rosé, crisp and clean, flavored abv: 13% Price: $NA with ripe strawberries. Good as an apéritif or with spicy Les Vignerons du Vendômois 2010 Lieu dishes. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Pierre André 2009 En Chevret Premier 87 dit Cocagne (Coteaux du Vendômois). abv: 11% Price: $NA 91 Cru (Volnay). Rich, intense red-fruited wine,

WineMag.com | 17 soft and voluptuous. The tannins are folded into the Labouré-Roi 2009 Les Hauts Tours (Nu- Jaffelin 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges. Yes, there ripe fruits, giving a very approachable feel. The acidity 90 its-St.-Georges). For full review see page 6. 85 are some tannins and a chunky texture. But this is prominent at this stage but should soften in a year or abv: 13% Price: $42 wine is more simple Pinot Noir than structured Nuits- two, and the wine is certainly worth aging. William Har- St-Georges. Its acidity and sweet blackberry fruits offer rison Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Pierre André 2009 Clos des Guettottes an attractive combination of freshness and jamminess. abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This walled vine- Not for aging. Epic Wines. —R.V. yard has produced a surprisingly tannic, if impressive, abv: 13% Price: $50 Pierre André 2007 Santenots Premier wine for a Savigny in this vintage. It has a dark and firm 91 Cru (Volnay). Ripe, sweet-fruited wine, its red character, the red berry fruits just beginning to break Château de la Crée 2007 Clos du Châ- berry fruits and opulent tannins giving a rounded feel. through the firm and dry tannins. It needs 4–5 years’ 83 teau (Santenay). Already showing signs of There is, as well, a good structure composed of acidity, aging. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. fading, this is a wine that needs to be drunk now. The licorice and wood. It needs 2–3 years still to really de- abv: 13% Price: $42 fruit has disappeared into more mature secondary fla- velop all its depth of flavor. William Harrison Imports. vors, the tannins even showing signs of drying the wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château de la Crée 2008 Clos du Châ- Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $68 89 teau (Santenay). Richly textured wine that abv: 13% Price: $NA oozes jammy red fruits and ripe tannins. It has a good Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 Les Puil- dry core followed by sweet acidity and a juicy berry 90 lets Premier Cru (Mercurey). A richly fruity character. The wine has some power and aging poten- regional wines wine, its tannins comfortably entrenched in a plump tial. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. structure. Wood flavors are in the background, giving abv: 13% Price: $NA Olivier Leflaive 2009 Bourgogne. A rich extra richness. With its dark plum fruits, acidity and tan- 88 and fruity wine with an attractive layer of tan- nins, the wine will age well. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Pierre André 2009 Aloxe-Corton. From the nins to go with the bright red cherry and damson fla- abv: 13% Price: $32 88 home village of Pierre André’s Château Corton- vors. The fruit is delicious, succulent, finishing with fine André, this is a solid, chunky wine, its tannins very prev- acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. alent at this stage. It promises to be a smoother, wood- abv: 13% Price: $27 villages wines aged sip with blackberry and spice as well as a tasty juic- iness. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. Pierre André 2009 Les Forges (Bour- Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2001 Gevrey- abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 gogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune). Benefit- 92 Chambertin. While it still has firm tannins, the ing from the ripe 2009 vintage, the wine shows more wine is now also showing maturity. The color is chang- Pierre André 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin. ripe fruit than is usual from the Hautes-Côtes. It has ing, the hints of berry fruits fading behind the sweet and 88 Firmly tannic wine, hard around the edges at rich strawberry flavor along with acidity. The soft tan- sour flavors and the dark, dry core. The wine has con- this stage. It will certainly develop to give richer black nins add a light sense of structure. William Harrison siderable acidity, leaving an aftertaste that is still fresh. fruits, but those tannins will remain. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. Holiday Beverage. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $119 abv: 13% Price: $NA Labouré-Roi 2009 Maximum Bourgogne. Labouré-Roi 2009 La Futaille (Gevrey- Pierre André 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin. 86 With its attractive light red berry fruits and soft 92 Chambertin). For full review see page 5. Cel- 88 Big, powerful wine, full of both tannins and tannins, this an open style of Pinot Noir. It does show lar Selection. fruit. Being a 2008, the structure is firm and up-front, considerable acidity to go with the fruit. A smoky hint abv: 13% Price: $42 with the fruit and acidity lying behind. It will need to from the wood aging shows through at the end. Palm age for 2–3 years and more to come into balance. Wil- Bay International. —R.V. Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2000 liam Harrison Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 91 Gevrey-Chambertin. Now at its best, this is abv: 13% Price: $58 a wine showing tannins, dry raisins as well as tense acid- Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Epineuil (Bour- ity. It is mature, ripe, definitely ready for drinking. It has Pierre André 2009 Savigny-lès-Beaune. A 86 gogne). Epineuil is a small area close to Cha- secondary flavors of prunes, wood and smokiness, while 88 perfumed wine, deliciously accessible now. The blis. This red wine is as light and fresh as its northerly the dryness at the core suggests it will not mature much damson and red plum fruits push through a light tannic location would suggest. Red cherry juice dominates an longer. Holiday Beverage. —R.V. core. It’s a wine with a pure Pinot character, very linear attractively textured wine that could be served slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $119 and ready to drink. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. chilled. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Labouré-Roi 2008 La Futaille (Gevrey- 91 Chambertin). A heavily oaked wine that needs Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 La Bri- Pierre André 2009 Réserve Vieilles Vignes time for the toast to integrate. It does have the black 87 gardière Vieilles Vignes (Mercurey). 85 (Bourgogne). Light, lean wine, its black cur- fruit structure to back it up, so expect this complex wine There is some weight on this young tasting wine. The rant fruits revealing as much acidity as fruitiness. There to develop pleasurably over the next 5–6 years. Palm tannins are beginning to allow the red berry and dam- is a bitter coffee edge along with a light final juicy char- Bay International. —R.V. son fruits to open up. Touches of wood round it out for acter. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $42 aging. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $24 Château de la Crée 2007 En Foulot (San- Pierre André 2009 Beauversant (Bour- 90 tenay). A dry core pervades this full-bodied Pierre André 2007 Clos de Chagnots (La- 84 gogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). Rather lean wine. Red fruits are masking its delicious ripe meat and 87 doix). Ladoix is a forgotten Burgundy village wine, with highlighted acidity. Raspberry and tart plum sweet jam flavors. There is a distinct tannic element that can offer good value. This wine with its strawberry flavors dominate to give a tightly tannic wine, rather that holds this attractive wine together. Luxe Vintages. fruits and gentle tannins fits the bill. There is a fine, ripe austere. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. —R.V. feel to it, and a dry edge that sets off the fruitiness. Wil- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA liam Harrison Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $32

18 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Jaffelin 2009 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin Hecht & Bannier 2008 Faugères. H&B’s silky mouth offers a round but balanced feel, with a nice 84 (Bourgogne). Raspberry fruits an edge of 91 2008 Faugères is rich and complex, with herbal mineral lift to the close. Serge Doré Selections. —L.B. soft tannins go with a more jammy character. The wine, garrigue aromas of lavender and laurel framed against abv: 14% Price: $25 while light in texture, does have good intense acidity. the solid ripe dark berry and cherry fruit core. The It’s an attractive wine to drink now. Epic Wines. —R.V. mouth is brisk and lively, with vibrant acidity lifting the Mas Gabinèle 2009 Faugères. A blend of abv: 12.5% Price: $20 dark fruit flavors and carrying through to the choco- 90 40% Syrah, 30% , 20% CarigNA and late- and espresso-flecked close. Good now, but hold for 10% Mourvèdre aged in French oak for 12 months, this Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 Vieilles another two to five years for even greater enjoyment. wine exhibits great depth of flavors against a tight struc- 83 Vignes (Bourgogne). Intense acidity domi- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. ture. Notes of garrigue herbs and peppery spice infuse nates this wine. While it has some tannic structure and abv: 14.5% Price: $39 the blackberry and rich plum fruit core. Sweet oak fla- some strawberry fruit, the overall feeling is of a wine vors linger on the long finish along with firm but fine that is thin. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Hecht & Bannier 2007 Faugères. Although tannins. Drink now–2016. Superb Wine International abv: 13% Price: $24 91 this is not the newest release from Hecht & LLC. —L.B. Bannier, it is drinking nicely now, with mature notes abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Louis Chevallier 2009 Bourgogne. Very of kirsch and black currant backed by accents of sweet 82 lightweight wine, with some attenuated fruit spice, crushed violets and soft leather. Though aged, the Baron Ermengaud 2007 Faugères. There’s and a dry character. The attraction is the fresh acidity mouth is still full and big with gripping tannins and a 89 a wild streak to this wine, with prominent aro- that does offer some compensation for the overoaked firm structure. The finish is long, evoking flavors of co- mas of cured meat and fresh savory herbs paired with flavor. Massanois Imports. —R.V. coa-dusted blackberries and peppery spice. Drink now– cherry and strawberry scents. The mouth is quite filling abv: 12.5% Price: $18 2014. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. and lush, with beautiful sweet spice and chewy bark fla- abv: 15% Price: $39 vors adding character to the close. 80% Syrah and 20% CarigNA; ready to drink now. Patagonia Wine & Im- languedoc Pierre Gaillard 2008 Domaine Cotte- ports, LLC. —L.B. 91 brune Transhumance (Faugères). Perhaps abv: 13% Price: $19 faugères better known for his Côte-Rôties, Pierre Gaillard is ob- Château Haut Lignières 2009 Le 1er viously comfortable working with schist. Transhumance (Faugères). This blend of 40% Syrah, 35% Château de la Liquiere 2008 Cistus is an intense and complex wine, with assertive notes of 89 Grenache and 25% Mourvèdre takes some time to ful- 92 (Faugères). This dark and concentrated red, kirsch, sweet smoke, wild game and garrigue accents of ly express itself in the glass, with soft scents of licorice composed of 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 10% Mourvè- thyme, rosemary and violet. Rich and lush in the mouth, root, red cherry, raspberry and a touch of sweet orange dre and 5% CarigNA, offers superb strength of flavors the texture is like crushed velvet and the finish evolves oil. Bright and fresh in the mouth with juicy red fruit in a firmly defined and well-balanced structure. Black from a dark fruit blast to sweet vanilla bean and finally flavors infused by a mineral twang. Drink now–2015. fruit is abundant throughout, with complex accents of ending on a smoked cedar and spice note. Cynthia Hur- United Estates Wine Imports, Ltd. —L.B. licorice, wild game, sweet spice and bittersweet cocoa ley Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $20 powder. Concentrated fruit, tight tannins and medium abv: 15% Price: $25 acidity provide the promise of ageability; try from 2013– Domaine de Cébène 2009 Felgaria 2018. Serge Doré Selections. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Abbaye Slyva Plana 2009 La Closeraie (Faugères). With only 30 cases imported, this abv: 14% Price: $30 (Faugères). Heady but juicy Grenache domi- 89 90 clean and vibrant wine might be a tough find. The bou- nates the blend of this wine, which also includes 30% quet is surprisingly bright, with notes of garrigue and Laurent Miquel 2007 Saga Pegot (Fau­ Cinsault, 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. Concentrat- peppery spice dominating the plum, cherry and fresh fig gères). Saga Pegot is a gorgeous single-block 92 ed deep fruit aromas of plum, blackberry and muddled aromas. Smooth and silky in the mouth, soft tannins and expression of Syrah, aged 14 months in French oak. boysenberry flood the nose, while a streak of mineral- a mineral streak make this surprisingly approachable The oak is present and forward, lending a great deca- ity and moderate acidity keep things vibrant in the me- now. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —L.B. dence to the wine by way of sweet wood and strong mo- dium-weight mouth with a velour-like texture. Licorice abv: 14% Price: $45 cha chacteristics among the black berry and cherry fruit and sweet spice stay well into the close. Massanois Im- core. Additional nuances of licorice stick, crushed pur- ports. —L.B. Hecht & Bannier 2009 Faugères. Hecht & ple florals and thin mint add depth to the lush mouth. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 89 Bannier tends to favor a blend based on Syrah Firm, gripping tannins and a dense fruit core provide a and Mourvèdre, here 55% and 35% respectively, with a texture like crushed velvet; drinkable now, but should Château de la Liquiere 2008 Vieilles Vi- small addition of CarigNA to add lively spice and vibrant age nicely through 2017. Laurent Miquel. Editors’ 90 gnes (Faugères). Heady and concentrated acidity. Aromas of rosemary and thyme sprigs spice up Choice. —L.B. notes of blackberry, cherry and plum are graced with the ripe fruit core, while the medium-length finish of- abv: 14% Price: $25 additional glimmers of lavender and thyme. The layered fers a lovely dusting of black pepper on the end. Drink fruit continues in the velvety mouth, and licorice stick, now–2015. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. Mas Gabinèle 2009 Rarissime (Fau­ clove and nutmeg spice accents carry well into the fin- abv: 15% Price: $39 92 gères). If you’re going to enjoy this wine now, ish. A nice expression with great balance; drink now– let it open up for a couple of hours to allow some of 2014. Serge Doré Selections. —L.B. Château St. Roch de Laurens 2007 (Fau­ the nuanced notes to express themselves. Sultry aromas abv: 14% Price: $20 88 gères). This wine needs some time to open up of boysenberry and blueberry are framed with complex in the glass, but once it finally does you’ll be greeted additions of purple florals, sweet cured meat, vanilla Château de la Liquiere 2007 Nos Racines with an attractive bouquet loaded with savory herbs, bean and toasty oak. The palate is lush and mouthfilling, 90 (Faugères). This CarigNA-based blend with leather, dark chocolate, espresso grinds and black cher- with fine but aggressive tannins and a beautiful min- 25% Grenache is dense and concentrated, highlighting ry and berry fruit aromas. Dusty tannins and medium erality to the dark fruit core. Cocoa-dusted truffle fla- just how well the old CarigNA vines from the region can acidity frame the solid structure and linger through the vors flood the long finish; hold until 2016–2020. Superb express themselves. Ripe blueberry and boysenberry long finish. Drink now-2014. Patagonia Wine & Im- Wine International LLC. Cellar Selection. —L.B. flavors are matched with medium-intense notes of bay, ports, LLC. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $45 menthol, sweet bark and bittersweet chocolate. The abv: 13% Price: $20

WineMag.com | 19 Domaine de Cébène 2009 Les Bancèls Vignobles Jeanjean 2008 Domaine de other year, but very drinkable now. Serge Doré Selec- 88 (Faugères). With no oak aging, there’s a great 85 Fenouillet Combe Rouge (Faugères). tions. —R.V. freshness to the gutsy black fruit core of this wine as Light and easy, this wine offers soft garrigue accents abv: 13% Price: $33 well as an intense garrigue herbaceousness and min- against a core of bright red plum and berry flavors. Soft eral streak expressed throughout the nose and mouth. tannins and a short, clean finish make this an approach- Château Coudray Montpensier 2009 Medium weight with approachable tannins and a lively, able wine now. Cannon Wines Limited. —L.B. 85 L’Apogée Vieilles Vignes (Chinon). An clean finish. Drink now. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & abv: 13% Price: $12 earthy wine, with concentrated black berry fruits, and Spirits. —L.B. with a distinct barnyard character. Acidity and a juicy abv: 14% Price: $20 Vignobles Jeanjean 2008 Domaine de finish bring back some fruit. USA Wine West. —R.V. 84 Fenouillet (Faugères). Wild game and herb- abv: 13% Price: $17 Les Fusionels 2009 Intemporelle (Fau­ al accents spice up the bright small red berry, cherry 88 gères). Notes of sweet oak spice infuse the and currant fruit aromas on this wine. Easygoing with Sauvion 2010 Chinon. Typical tobacco and chunky dark fruit notes of black berry, plum and cher- a soft mouth and a clean finish. Drink now. Cannon 85 herb-flavored wine, not for aging, but with red ry. The smooth mouth shows clean and lifting acidity Wines Limited. —L.B. plum flavors and light tannins. It has a pronounced ele- partnered with approachable tannins, transitioning into abv: 13% Price: $10 ment of acidity. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. a finish loaded with spicy flavors of black pepper and abv: 12.5% Price: $14 whole nutmeg. Strecker Selections. —L.B. Vignobles Jeanjean 2008 Mas Fenouil- abv: 14% Price: $35 84 let (Faugères). Forward aromas of red cher- ry and strawberry waft from the glass immediately, fol- germany Cuvée Valentin Duc 2007 Faugères. Lean lowed by a secondary accent of menthol. Light tannins 87 cherry, strawberry and red plum aromas start off frame the mouth to provide an easy structure. Drink white wines the nose of this wine, and gradually subside to reveal a now. Cannon Wines Limited. —L.B. stony, flinty streak augmented with soft garrigue herbs. abv: 13% Price: $10 Castell 2007 Casteller Schlossberg Soft spice and ripe fruit continue in the medium-weight 90 Trockenbeerenauslese Silvaner (Frank- mouth, the fine grain tannins coating your palate and en). Very honeyed and sweet, with bold flavors of apri- staying through the slightly chewy and fudgy close. Ma- fitou cot and mango that seem almost caramelized in their ture now, so drink up. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. sugary intensity. Drink now and over the next few years. Best Buy. —L.B. Mont Tauch 2007 Domaine St Roch Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $12 87 (Fitou). Assertive aromas of rosemary, thyme abv: 9% Price: $279 and laurel dominate the bouquet of this medium-weight Domaine Saint Antonin 2009 Faugères. wine. Flavors of high-toned black cherry and boysen- Baron Knyphausen 2009 Hattenheimer 87 The bouquet of this wine is quite forward and berry keep the mouth fresh and the finish mouthwater- 88 Wisselbrunnen Grosse Lage floral, with strong scents of carnation, violet and lav- ing. Frank-Lin International. —L.B. (Rheingau). This is intriguingly scented stuff, with ender. The fruit appears secondary to the herbal back- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 hints of honey, musk and truffles that come together bone, with a touch of blueberry and cocoa making an harmoniously. The flavors run along similar veins, being appearance on the mouthwatering close. Drink now. Mourrel Azurat 2009 (Fitou). There’s a wild, complex and sweet without being obviously fruity; this Bourgeois Family Selections. —L.B. 87 natural streak to this wine of garrigue herbs and is not a dry wine (28.9 g/L residual sugar). Finishes a bit abv: 14.5% Price: $19 game matched with fruit notes of dark cherry and plum soft; drink now. Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. guts. The medium-weight mouth is juicy but offers nice abv: 13% Price: $66 Domaine Saint Antonin 2008 Les Jardins structre with dusty tannins and a fudgy finish. Drink 86 (Faugères). Aromas of licorice, crushed vio- now. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. Robert Weil 2009 Tradition Riesling (Rhe- lets and menthol add depth to the otherwise straight- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 ingau). This is a traditional fruity Riesling, me- forward black cherry and berry fruit notes. Medium dium bodied, with flinty aromas and hints of apples and weight with a solid structure and a finish kissed with cream. It’s soft and off dry in style, with some mineral sweet spice flavors. Drink now. Bourgeois Family Se- other french reds character. Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C. lections. —L.B. abv: 10.5% Price: $28 abv: 14% Price: $14 Paul Buisse 2009 Domaine le Petit Bon 88 Dieu Réserve (Bourgueil). A wood-aged, Les Fusionels 2008 La Rêve (Faugères). rich and full wine, benefiting from the year and giving italian sparklers 86 A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, this out fine perfumes, rich tannins and dark berry flavors. wine spent 12 months in French oak and it shows with It’s a wine with enough power to age further, already a franciacorta asserive characteristics of sweet spice, chocolate and solid pleasure to drink. Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. hickory-smoked bacon among the plum and boysenber- abv: 13% Price: $NA Ca’ del Bosco 1998 Brut (Franciacorta). ry fruit flavors. Light tannins and an easygoing struc- 93 From the faraway 1998 vintage, this lovely spar- ture; drink now. Strecker Selections. —L.B. Ravoire et Fils 2009 Le Pont (Bandol). An kling blend from northern Italy delivers a suave, smooth abv: 14% Price: $20 88 herbal, perfumed wine, showing concentrat- personality with complex layers of toasted baguette, ed tannins and firm black fruit flavors. The wine has a honey-roasted almond, candied orange and ripe peach. Domaine St Martin d’Agel 2009 (Fau­ dense structure, filled with acidity as well as final rich- Great intensity and a bitter almond finish cap the en- 85 gères). This is an easy-drinking Faugères with ness. Age for 2–3 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. during mouthfeel. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. lively accents of thyme and crushed purple florals to the abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ripe red fruit core. The mouth is vibrant and mouth- watering with strong acidity and a clean but somewhat Roger et Didier Raimbault 2008 Les Contadi Castaldi 2003 Soul Satèn (Fran- tart finish. Drink now. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & 88 Belles Côtes Rouge (Sancerre). Well 92 ciacorta). This opulent Chardonnay-based Spirits. —L.B. structured, strongly laced with wood, this is a full-in- sparkling wine offers a luminous golden color and aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 the-mouth red, very berry and cherry. Its ripe fruit mas of mature fruit, melon and toasted almond. The opens gently to give a concentrated finish. Age for an-

20 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 wine imparts a rich, creamy feel in the mouth. Terra mond and candied fruit. Creamy mousse helps drive a flower, apricot and lavender. The blend is 60-40 Pinot Moretti Trading. —M.L. very long finish. Vignaioli. —M.L. Nero and Chardonnay and both varieties contribute to abv: 12.5% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $50 the overall richness of this sparkling wine. Franciacorta Import. —M.L. Monte Rossa 2005 Cabochon Brut (Fran- Bellavista NV Cuvée Brut (Franciacorta). abv: 12.5% Price: $45 92 ciacorta). Cabochon Brut is a gorgeous meto- 90 Bellavista’s Cuvée Brut is a wine that delivers do classico sparkling wine that opens with determined consistent and delicious results year after year. It’s a sure Lantieri de Paratico NV Satèn Brut (Fran- aromas of freshly baked bread, toasted almond and ma- bet because of its delicately toasted notes that are en- 89 ciacorta). This pretty Satèn (a sparkling ex- ture fruit. It’s dry and tonic with sharp, mouth-cleansing hanced by plenty of ripe fruit and citrus. It also shows pression of Chardonnay) offers creamy notes of vanil- effervescence. Very nice. Wine Emporium. —M.L. extreme finesse and elegance, with a bright and cheer- la, yellow rose, custard and toasted nut. Those bright abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ful personality. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. citrusy notes often associated with the variety shine abv: 12.5% Price: $NA through on the close. Franciacorta Import. —M.L. Antica Fratta NV Brut (Franciacorta). This abv: 12.5% Price: $35 91 Chardonnay-based sparkling wine is rich and Contadi Castaldi 2006 Brut Rosé (Fran- opulent on the palate with decadent aromas of mature 90 ciacorta). This is a soft and sophisticated spar- Montenisa NV Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). fruit, honeydew melon, honey and toasted almond. It is kling blend of Pinot Nero and Chardonnay (in a rosé 89 Beautifully pale and bright, this feminine rosé uniquely smooth and silky on the close. Tita Italian Im- version) that opens with a delicate pink color and pris- sparkling wine delivers aromas of wild berry, forest port & Export. —M.L. tine aromas of toasted almond, stone fruit, cassis and floor, toasted nut and pink grapefruit. There’s a sharp abv: 12% Price: $29 white pepper. The mouthfeel is capped by a zesty, spicy note of bitter almond on the long finish. Ste. Michelle feel. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. Wine Estates. —M.L. Monte Rossa NV Prima Cuvée Brut (Fran- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $29 91 ciacorta). This is a lovely sparkling blend with bright citrus notes that add lively accents to the wine’s Contadi Castaldi 2006 Dosaggio Zero Quadra NV Brut (Franciacorta). A silky (Franciacorta). broad base of mature fruit and melon. Acidity on the 90 This pretty 50-50 blend of 89 blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot finish also helps offset its delicious creaminess and rich- Chardonnay and Pinot Nero delivers bright aromas of Nero, this elegant classic method sparkling wine opens ness. Wine Emporium. —M.L. citrus fruit, apricot, almond and yellow rose. The spar- with citrus, peach and floral aromas of jasmine and hon- abv: 12% Price: $NA kler offers a smooth, creamy mouthfeel with a touch of eysuckle. Its rich fruit flavors and delicately toasted fla- piquant spice and mature fruit flavors on the close. Ter- vors would pair with smoked salmon canapés. Domaine Monte Rossa NV Satèn Brut (Francia- ra Moretti Trading. —M.L. Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 91 corta). This luminous Satèn expression from Franciacorta offers extreme elegance and sophistication Lantieri de Paratico 2006 Arcadia Milles- Quadra NV Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). with loads of mature fruit and toasted baguette aromas. imato Brut (Franciacorta). A pale, golden- Quadra’s Brut Rosé sparkling wine offers a deli- Its texture is incredibly smooth, soft and creamy. Wine 90 89 colored blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Pinot Nero, cate pink color and compelling aromas of stone fruit, Emporium. —M.L. this luminous wine offers deep aromatic intensity—aro- toasted bread, crème de cassis and subtle waves of cin- abv: 12% Price: $NA mas of mature peach, melon, baked bread and freshly namon spice. The mouthfeel is smooth, rich, long-last- ground clove. It finishes soft, creamy and smooth. Fran- ing and offers a piquant touch of crushed white pepper. Quadra 2006 Satèn (Franciacorta). This ciacorta Import. —M.L. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. 91 Chardonnay-based Satèn sparkling wine opens abv: 12.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $31 with creamy aromas of vanilla, lemon custard, apricot and dried sage. The wine has a smooth, rich and persis- Montenisa NV Brut (Franciacorta). The Barone Pizzini NV Brut (Franciacorta). tent character thanks to the delicate quality of its per- 90 sparkling wine estate of Tuscany’s Antinori fam- 88 This Chardonnay-based Brut expression ma- lage. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. ily, Montenisa offers a cool collection of metodo classico tures for two years on the lees, and shows a creamy, abv: 12.5% Price: $34 wines that are creamy, rich and silky on the close. You’ll dense personality. There are citrus notes with apricot, get aromas of apricot, melon and crushed almond in this honey and white almond skin. Vignaioli. —M.L. Antica Fratta NV Brut Rosé (Franciacor- bubbly Brut. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $35 90 ta). This beautiful Brut Rosé sparkling wine abv: 12.5% Price: $25 from the celebrated Franciacorta region of northern It- Bersi Serlini NV Rosa Rosae Brut Cuvèe aly (not far from Milan) delivers a creamy, rich texture, Montenisa 2004 Brut Satèn (Franciacor- 88 Rosé (Franciacorta). This pretty rosé spar- generous perlage and aromas of cranberry and pink 90 ta). Loads of peach and honey open the nose of kling wine opens with a lush raspberry color and toasted rose. Tita Italian Import & Export. —M.L. this creamy, rich Chardonnay-based sparkling wine. In aromas of baked bread, almond, mature fruit and crème abv: 13% Price: $35 the mouth, the wine delivers sharp acidity and piquant de cassis. It shows a clean, compact mouthfeel with a effervescence. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. touch of crisp acidity on the close. Tita Italian Import Antica Fratta 2006 Essence Rosé (Fran- abv: 12.5% Price: $32 & Export. —M.L. 90 ciacorta). A pale pink sparkler with loads of abv: 12.5% Price: $NA intensity and elegance, Essence opens with delicate Contadi Castaldi NV Brut (Franciacorta). aromas of cranberry, toasted almond, mature fruit and 89 A blend of Chardonnay (80%), Pinot Bianco Bersi Serlini 2005 Brut Cuvèe 4 Milles- grapefruit. The wine’s perlage is steady and foamy. Tita and Pinot Nero, this Brut Franciacorta offers peachy, 88 imato (Franciacorta). This vintage-dated Italian Import & Export. —M.L. floral aromas and excellent density and richness on the sparkling wine opens with tight citrus aromas of lime abv: 12% Price: $36 palate. A hint of dried sage and almond on the close and grapefruit backed by dried flower and stone fruit. gives it extra appeal. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. There’s loads of easy, fresh crispness on the finish. Tita Barone Pizzini 2004 Bagnadore Brut Na- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Italian Import & Export. —M.L. 90 ture Millesimato (Franciacorta). Here’s abv: 12.5% Price: $29 a layered, sophisticated sparkling blend (50-50 Pinot Lantieri de Paratico NV Brut Arcadia Nero and Chardonnay) that shows citrus, peach and 89 Rosé (Franciacorta). This pretty Brut Rosé Camossi NV Brut (Franciacorta). This honeysuckle aromas backed by baked bread, bitter al- offers rich and soothing aromas of baked bread, dried 88 Brut sparkling wine (from Italy’s prestigious

WineMag.com | 21 Franciacorta appellation) opens with attractive lumi- fruit. It’s a complex, layered sparkler with creamy vanil- and crisp, pair this wine with seafood appetizers. Ribevi nosity, persistent bubbling and is followed by toasted la mousse and golden saturation. Vintelligence. —M.L. Wine Int. —M.L. notes of stone fruit, honey and almond. Pair this wine abv: 13% Price: $65 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 with delicate seafood salad. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Lantieri de Paratico NV Brut (Franciacor- Castelveder NV Brut (Franciacorta). From 88 ta). Here’s a fresh, zesty sparkling blend (Char- 87 Italy’s premier metodo classico sparkling wine Camossi NV Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). donnay with 10% Pinot Bianco for extra smoothness on region, this bright Franciacorta offers toasted notes of 88 This bright Franciacorta Italian sparkler offers the finish) that would pair with fried shrimps or spicy almond and baked bread backed by fresh tones of peach pristine aromas of citrus, stone fruit, baked bread and crab cakes. Peach, custard and toasted nut are promi- and citrus. In the mouth, it offers light, crisp informality toasted almond. The wine is smooth and creamy and its nent aromas. Franciacorta Import. —M.L. with loads of fresh fruit and peach on the close. Trilussa mature melon and apricot flavors last long on the pal- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Wine Company . —M.L. ate. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Lantieri de Paratico NV Extra Brut (Fran- 88 ciacorta). Dry, tight and long-lasting, this crys- Castelveder NV Brut Rosé (Franciacor- Camossi 2006 Millesimato Extra Brut talline metodo classico sparkling wine delivers a crisp, 87 ta). Made with Pinot Nero grapes, this Brut 88 (Franciacorta). The 2006 Millesimato spar- firm mouthfeel accented by white pepper and tonic ef- Rosé sparkling wine offers delicate aromas of rose petal kling wine delivers aromas of honey and sourdough fervescence. Drink this wine on its own or with slices and raspberry followed by a creamy texture and bright bread and loads of almond and stone fruit flavors. It of sweet ham from Italy or Spain. Franciacorta Import. freshness. Pair this wine with cooked prunes wrapped in closes with a fresh, citrusy blast. —M.L. —M.L. smoked ham. Trilussa Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $25

Contadi Castaldi NV Brut Rosé (Francia- Ricci Curbastro NV Rosè Brut (Francia- Castelveder 2005 Brut Millesimato 88 corta). This alluring rosé sparkler is laced with 88 corta). This pretty Brut Rosé sparkler opens 87 (Franciacorta). This vintage-dated expression delicate aromas of small berry fruit, citrus and fresh with a pretty pink color and aromas of stone fruit, white of Chardonnay offers creamy aromas of peach and hon- rose. In the mouth, the wine feels smooth and silky and almond and chestnut honey. Thanks to the wine’s foamy ey followed by dried sage, toasted almond and crushed offers a playful, refreshing bite of acidity at the end. Ter- mineral. Pair this luminous sparkling wine with rolled perlage, the bubbly tastes thick and smooth on the ra Moretti Trading. —M.L. salmon canapés. Trilussa Wine Company . —M.L. close. Domenico Valentino. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $40

Cornaleto NV Brut (Franciacorta). This Ricci Curbastro NV Brut (Franciacorta). Tenuta Montedelma di Berardi NV Satèn fresh sparkling blend from Franciacorta in Neutral on the nose, this Italian sparkler offers 88 (Franciacorta). Here’s a soft, creamy spar- 87 northern Italy opens with a touch of citrus zest followed 88 a sharp and tonic mouthfeel followed by light flavors of kling wine with rich mousse and peachy foam on the by yellow rose and crushed white pepper. It offers a citrus and peach. It is dry and cleansing with small, tonic finish. The close is characterized by citrus, grapefruit tonic, drying mouthfeel with steely effervescence on effervescence. Domenico Valentino. —M.L. and toasted almond flavors. —M.L. the finish. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Ricci Curbastro NV Extra Brut (Francia- Tenuta Montedelma di Berardi 2006 Pas Cornaleto NV Rosé (Franciacorta). This corta). Here’s an easy sparkling wine from the Dosé Millesimato (Franciacorta). There’s 87 pretty rosé sparkling wine opens with a pale 88 Franciacorta region near Milan in northern Italy that 88 a tight, clean quality to this sparkling blend that makes peach color and amber highlights. The nose is redolent delivers tones of pressed rose, stone fruit and candied of baked bread, citrus, grapefruit, white berry or cran- the wine a perfect pairing partner to sushi or Mediterra- lemon rind. It finishes with tight, crisp acidity and steely berry and the lively mouthfeel is propped up by tonic nean seafood salad with steamed calamari and mussels. effervescence. Domenico Valentino. —M.L. bubbling. 1_ No Submitting Company. —M.L. Those foods would highlight the dry, mineral element abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $26 already in evidence here. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Ricci Curbastro 2006 Satèn Brut (Fran- Cornaleto NV Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). 87 ciacorta). Here’s an easy and fresh sparkling 88 Creamy, dense and packed tight with aromas of Bersi Serlini 2002 Brut Vintage Riserva wine from northern Italy that opens with aromas of mature fruit, melon and apricot, this pretty sparkling 87 (Franciacorta). There’s a fine, pristine quality toasted nut, apricot and candied lemon rind. It shows blend could pair with creamy shrimp risotto or seared to this sparkling wine that underlines its age and over- soft, foamy mousse on the finish. Domenico Valentino. tuna. There’s a touch of butterscotch and bitter almond all elegance. It delivers aromas of candied fruit, honey, —M.L. on the finish. —M.L. butterscotch and caramel. Tita Italian Import & Export. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $23 —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Tenuta Montedelma di Berardi NV Brut Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia Nova- 87 (Franciacorta). There’s a crisp, easy quality to 88 lia Brut (Franciacorta). This Brut, Chardon- Cà del Vént NV Brut (Franciacorta). this metodo classico Italian sparkler that makes it ideal nay-based sparkling wine is fantastically fresh and light 87 There’s a spicy element of clove or cinnamon for smoked salmon or raw tuna appetizers. The wine is with lively aromas of green apple, citrus, talc powder (25% of the wine is aged in oak) that is followed by stone lean and bright with a fine note of citrus and lime on the and drying mineral. It shows steely perlage and a foamy fruit and bitter almond. Tonic effervescence and crisp finish. —M.L. texture. Vintelligence. —M.L. acidity would help pair this wine with quiche. Ribevi abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $34 Wine Int. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Cornaleto 1994 Brut Riserva (Francia- Fratelli Muratori 2002 Villa Crespia Iaco- 86 corta). From the far-away 1994 vintage, this 88 no Riserva Dosaggio Zero (Franciacor- Cà del Vént NV Satén (Franciacorta). This aged metodo classico sparking wine (made with 80% ta). There’s a caramel candy or custard-like quality to 87 is a lean, simple sparkling wine with stone fruit Chardonnay with Pinots Nero and Bianco) opens with this wine that is backed by pear, apricot and mature and grapefruit followed by almond and melon. Foamy a deep golden color and aromas of mature fruit, apricot

22 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 and butterscotch. There’s a note of flatness or slight oxi- Fondazione Edmund Mach 2006 Riserva Sorelle Bronca NV Particella 68 Extra dation. . —M.L. 87 del Fondatore Brut (Trento). This Riserva 90 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 sparkling wine is simple and linear with light brushes co Superiore). Particella 68 is a particularly fine and of crushed stone and talc powder followed by peach, focused Prosecco with delicate aromas of white flow- Cornaleto 1997 Brut Riserva (Francia- Golden Delicious apple and pear. It finishes with toast- er and fresh peach. There’s a touch of sweetness in the 85 corta). Aged and slightly oxidized, this caramel ed almond and hazelnut. —M.L. mouth that gives the perlage a thicker, smoother feel. colored sparkling wine is reaching the far end of its nat- abv: 13% Price: $NA Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. ural lifespan. Aromas of apricot, honeysuckle and but- abv: 11% Price: $NA terscotch give it nice momentum in the mouth. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Prosecco Cartizze Adami 2010 Vigneto Giardino Dry 89 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Bortolomiol 2010 Cartizze Dry (Valdobbi- Superiore). Vigneto Giardino is a dry expression of trento/trentino 91 adene Superiore di Cartizze). This beauti- Prosecco that pleases year after year. The lush softness ful expression of the Cartizze cru (Prosecco’s most cel- and elegance of the wine is backed by lively aromas of Ferrari 2005 Perlé Rosé Brut (Trento). ebrated vineyard site) shows feminine elegance and peach, honeysuckle and jasmine. Dalla Terra Winery 92 Ferrari’s delicate rosé sparkling wine opens finesse with white mineral notes woven within spring Direct. —M.L. with distinctive notes of small berry fruit, rose petal flower and stone fruit. If you want to taste Italian Pro- abv: 11% Price: $21 and freshly baked bread. The wine shows freshness, a secco in its superior form, try this beautiful wine. Drey- creamy consistency and fine, persistent perlage. Palm fus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Adami NV Bosco di Gica Brut (Coneglia- Bay International. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $30 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 12.5% Price: $75 Bosco di Gica offers delicate and feminine aromas of Le Colture NV Cartizze Dry (Valdobbiad- white flower, peach, passion fruit and drying white min- Ferrari 2005 Perlé Brut (Trento). Ferrari’s 90 ene Superiore di Cartizze). Le Colture pro- eral. This is a Brut Prosecco, which means it offers less 91 sparkling wines are always creamy and smooth. duces one of the best Cartizze Proseccos on the mar- sweetness in the mouth. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. This Perlé Brut expression opens with fine nuances ket today. This is a delicate, feminine wine with a sweet —M.L. of baked bread, almond and mature fruit followed by note in the mouth that is embellished by pretty tones of abv: 11% Price: $18 brighter tones of citrus and honey. Palm Bay Interna- white flower, peach blossom and dried basil. T. Edward tional. —M.L. Wines Ltd. —M.L. Adami NV Dei Casel Extra Dry (Coneglia- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 11% Price: $NA 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Prosecco Superiore Dei Casel is a soft, foamy wine with Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). For full review see Bortolin NV Cartizze Dry (Valdobbiadene apple mousse, lemon zest and soft layers of peach cob- 90 page 6. 88 Superiore di Cartizze). Cartizze is the most bler. The wine is delicate, elegant and fine. Dalla Terra abv: 12.5% Price: $25 celebrated vineyard cru in the Prosecco area and this Winery Direct. —M.L. expression lives up to its reputation very nicely. It offers abv: 11% Price: $18 Ferrari NV Rosé (Trento). For full review see delicate floral and mineral tones that create a smooth, 90 page 6. feminine personality. Romano Brands. —M.L. Bortolotti NV Extra Dry 47 (Conegliano abv: 12.5% Price: $38 abv: 11% Price: $30 88 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Ele- gant and beautifully contoured by aromas of white flow- Rotari NV Brut Talento Chardonnay Maccari Spumanti NV Dry (Valdobbiad- er and stone fruit, this lively Prosecco is perfect for a 89 (Trento). With its well-recognized yellow label, 87 ene Superiore di Cartizze). Cartizze is a tiny hot Sunday afternoon with family and friends. The fresh Rotari’s Brut Talento (based on Chardonnay grapes) of- swath of vertical vineyard at the heart of Valdobbiadene bubbles offer a touch of piquant spice on the close. A fers value and quality with toasty aromas of roasted al- that is said to make the best Prosecco. The wine usually Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. mond, freshly baked bread and yellow fruit. The wine comes in a Dry expression (meaning it’s a tiny bit sweet- —M.L. is creamy and smooth with a touch of citrus freshness er) and this example is indeed deeply redolent of peach abv: 11.5% Price: $23 on the close. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. and honeysuckle. Progetto Veneto . —M.L. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA Le Colture NV Fagher Brut (Conegliano abv: 12.5% Price: $14 88 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This exciting Brut Prosecco shows a very floral and fruity Rotari NV Rosé Brut Talento (Trentino). prosecco superiore bouquet followed by a crisp, drying mouthfeel. The 89 A blend of Pinot Noir (75%) and Chardonnay, high quality of the aromas is what sets this wine apart this Brut Rosé sparkler opens with a pale pink color and Bortolomiol 2010 Bandarossa Extra Dry from the competition. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. pleasing aromas of baguette bread, white almond and 90 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco abv: 11.5% Price: $NA blue flower or pressed violets. Pair it with salmon cana- Superiore). Bandarossa Prosecco consistently delivers pés. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. excellent quality year after year. This luminous sparkling Ruggeri & C. NV Giall’Oro Extra Dry (Gold abv: 12.5% Price: $14 wine offers delicate nuances of dried basil, stone fruit, 88 Label) (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- peat and passion fruit. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. secco Superiore). Among the highest expressions of Rotari 2004 Riserva Talento (Trentino). A abv: 11.5% Price: $22 Extra Dry Prosecco, Giall’Oro opens with very refined, 89 celebrated vintage from an estate that consis- but beautifully intense, aromas of peach, spring flower, tently delivers quality at attractive prices, this Riserva Ruggeri & C. 2009 Giustino B. Extra Dry citrus and passion fruit. The wine is smooth, creamy and sparkling wine is packed with Golden Delicious apple, 90 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco rich on the close. Villa Italia. —M.L. vanilla cream, apricot and toasted nut. There’s a sassy Superiore). A benchmark Prosecco that leads the pack abv: 11% Price: $18 touch of clove on the close. Prestige Wine Imports of quality Italian sparkling wine, Giustino B. is always Corp. —M.L. released a few years after the harvest. This additional Sorelle Bronca NV Brut (Conegliano Val- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 time in the bottle renders mature aromas of melon, 88 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Sorelle apricot and yellow rose. Villa Italia. —M.L. Bronca is a boutique producer that makes some of the abv: 11.5% Price: $30 finest Prosecco available today. This sparkling Brut ex-

WineMag.com | 23 pression shows finesse and focus with lively aromas of Foss Marai NV Strada di Guia, 109 Ex- spring rolls or coconut fried shrimp. Sweet fruit flavors white flower and smooth peach. Oliver McCrum Wines. 87 tra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- of peach and grapefruit are enhanced by foamy perlage. —M.L. secco Superiore). This Prosecco opens with a lumi- Villa Italia. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA nous golden color and mature aromas of melon, apricot abv: 11% Price: $19 and almond paste. There’s a touch of sweetness and the Sorelle Bronca NV Extra Dry (Coneglia- mouthfeel is characterized by the foamy, creamy nature Santa Margherita NV Extra Dry (Coneg- 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). of the soft effervescence. VinUS Inc. —M.L. 87 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- There’s a soft, creamy element to the nose of this Ex- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA riore). Santa Margherita has taken great strides in of- tra Dry Prosecco that is surrounded by pretty aromas of fering wines other than its flagship Pinot Grigio. This peach, melon and passion fruit. The mouthfeel is rich, L’Antica Quercia 2010 Matiú Brut Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore shows quality and per- foamy and smooth. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco sonality with slightly sweet touches of grapefruit and abv: 11% Price: $NA Superiore). This vintage aged Brut Prosecco offers peach spread throughout. Terlato Wines International. a sophisticated twist of mature melon and apricot lav- —M.L. Villa Sandi NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- ished over a creamy, soft mouthfeel. Pair this wine with abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 88 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Villa spicy barbecue chicken wings. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Sandi delivers a refreshing and tonic sparkling wine Selections. —M.L. Spagnol NV Col del Sas Extra Dry from the Prosecco Superiore area that would pair with abv: 11.5% Price: $23 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco a broad range of light fish and vegetable dishes. The Superiore). Col di Sas is a simple and crisp Prosecco mouthfeel is smooth, silky and zesty clean. Folio Fine Le Colture NV Cruner Dry (Conegliano with floral aromas stacked over fruity tones of peach and Wine Partners. —M.L. 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). citrus. That tiny hint of sweetness in the mouth gives abv: 11% Price: $21 There’s a focused and precise nature to this Italian spar- the wine additional heft and staying power. USA Wine kler that gives it a competitive edge. That clean, crisp Imports. —M.L. Zardetto 2010 Tre Venti Brut Millesima- personality also applies to its aromas of peach and cit- abv: 11% Price: $19 88 to (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- rus. Cruner is less sweet than most Dry Proseccos. T. co Superiore). “Three winds” is a new product from Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. Valdo NV Cuvée di Boj Brut (Conegliano a top Prosecco producer. Packaged in an elegant and abv: 11% Price: $NA 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This understated bottle, this Italian sparkler is ideal for light luminous Prosecco Superiore opens with dry aromas lunches or outdoor appetizers. The interesting aromas Le Manzane 2010 Millesimo Extra Dry of hay and talc powder followed by pressed rose and include dried flowers, citrus and a very subtle touch of 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco lemon zest. All that dryness is enhanced by a touch of spicy clove. Winebow. —M.L. Superiore). Cool, crisp and focused, this Extra Dry crushed white pepper. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $26 Prosecco offers notes of lemon zest, peach and pear fol- abv: 11.5% Price: $20 lowed by creamy bubbling. Pair this wine with spicy In- Andreola NV Dirupo Extra Dry (Conegli- dian appetizers. Imports. —M.L. Villa Sandi NV Claxa Brut (Conegliano 87 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 11.5% Price: $14 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). There’s a very fresh and tonic element to this lively Packaged in a temperature-controlling double layered Italian sparkler that helps keep the palate refreshed Malibràn 2009 Brut Ruio (Conegliano glass bottle, this Prosecco can easily be carried to pic- throughout cocktail hour. You’ll also encounter a dry- 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). nics or outdoor garden lunches. It offers fresh aromas ing mineral element along with peach, citrus and white Ruio Brut Prosecco is released a few years after the of white flower, dried grass and stone fruit. Folio Fine melon. Vitis Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. harvest to allow for evolved aromas of mature melon Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $10 and apricot. Yet, the wine is streamlined and dry in the abv: 11% Price: $NA mouth with steely bubbles and a touch of almond skin Andreola 2010 Millesimato Dry (Conegli- as well. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. Villa Sandi NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- 87 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 11.5% Price: $20 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Thanks Fresh, crisp and light, this friendly and approachable to its prolific bottle numbers and excellent distribution, Prosecco would pair with Chinese or Thai appetizers. Montesel NV Vigna del Paradiso Extra Villa Sandi is a brand you are likely to run into often. The wine’s plush sweetness will balance the hot spice 87 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- That’s great news because the estate offers value and an found in those foods. Vitis Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. co Superiore). Cheerful bubbling and a luminous ap- authentic window into Prosecco tradition. This sparkler abv: 11% Price: $12 pearance give this Prosecco Superiore a very encourag- delivers dried hay, white flowers, peach and honeysuck- ing start. The wine follows to the mouth with dry flavors le. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. Bortolomiol NV Prior Brut (Prosecco di of pressed flower and hay and a touch of peachy sweet- abv: 11% Price: $18 87 Conegliano e Valdobbiadene). Prior Brut ness on the finish. Tricana Imports. —M.L. is the kind of well-priced wine you’ll want to have in abv: 11.5% Price: $20 Villa Sandi NV Oris Cuvée Dry (Conegli- ample supply at outdoor functions or midday weddings. 87 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). It’s fresh, tonic and tight with white flower and stone Perlage 2010 Animae Brut Millesimato A sweet, floral note of peach blossom or honeysuckle fruit nuances. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco opens the nose of this bright and luminous sparkling abv: 12% Price: $15 Superiore). Here’s a very pleasing Prosecco Superiore wine. It’s soft, creamy and rich in the mouth thanks to with firm, tonic effervescence and tight aromas of cit- the creamy nature of the perlage. Folio Fine Wine Part- Bianca Vigna 2010 Millesimo Extra Dry rus, peach and yellow flower. You’ll also like the savory, ners. —M.L. 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco flinty note that characterizes the finish. Chartrand Im- abv: 11.5% Price: $21 Superiore). This beautiful vintage-dated Prosecco of- ports. —M.L. fers layers of delicate floral, peach and citrus like inten- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Zardetto 2010 Z Dry Millesimato (Coneg- sity. There’s a touch of sweetness in the mouth that adds 87 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- a layer of plush softness to the finish. Indigenous Selec- Ruggeri & C. NV Santo Stefano Dry riore). Here’s a cheerful and bright Prosecco that deliv- tions. —M.L. 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco ers enticing aromas of dried hay, field flower, peach and abv: 11.5% Price: $18 Superiore). This wonderfully cheerful Italian spar- kling wine would make a wonderful companion to Thai

24 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 light lemon zest. Tonic, lively bubbling would match pretty Brut expression of Prosecco presents a clean and Il Colle NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- fried finger foods. Winebow. —M.L. straightforward style with lemon zest, white flowers and 85 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Here’s abv: 11.5% Price: $23 dried hay. It’s a refreshing wine, without much complex- a simple, straightforward Prosecco that offers all the ity, that would pair with light summer appetizers. Admi- fresh liveliness of an Italian sparkling wine along with Bianca Vigna 2010 Brut Millesimato ralty Beverage. —M.L. an easy personality that would pair with most informal 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco abv: 11.5% Price: $NA foods. There’s a touch of spice on the close followed by Superiore). This simple, no-fuss Prosecco opens with peach and citrus. Scott Levy Selection. —M.L. cheery aromas of peach, yellow rose and a touch of bit- Scandolera NV Costa d’Oro Brut (Coneg- abv: 11% Price: $15 ter almond. This expression also offers mature flavors 86 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- of melon and apricot on the finish. Indigenous Selec- riore). There’s a grassy, dry element to the nose of this La Riva dei Frati NV Dry (Conegliano Val- tions. —M.L. Brut Prosecco that resembles dried oregano or basil. 85 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Here’s abv: 11.5% Price: $17 Beyond that is a simple but fresh mouthfeel character- a simple, straightforward Prosecco with delicate aromas ized by foamy perlage. RDL Wine Rilymily. —M.L. of dried grass, citrus, pear and stone fruit. Flavors of Bortolin NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbi- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA dried herb linger over the wine’s naturally creamy per- 86 adene Prosecco Superiore). There’s a sub- lage. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. dued nature to this wine that makes up for a lack of in- Scandolera NV Vigneti del Fait Extra Dry abv: 11.5% Price: $NA tensity with elegance. Slight hints of white flower and 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco passion fruit are followed by smooth, soft foaming. Ro- Superiore). A dusty mineral note of talc power or Le Manzane NV Extra Dry (Conegliano mano Brands. —M.L. white stone opens the nose of this vineyard-designate 85 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 12% Price: $22 Prosecco. The wine is simple and crisp in the mouth There’s a bright, lively nature to this Prosecco Extra with a touch of fresh peach and basil on the soft close. Dry that is enhanced by aromas of butterscotch, lemon Cà Vittoria NV Costa dei Peschi Brut RDL Wine Rilymily. —M.L. drop and apricot. Sweet fruit flavors are followed by soft 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco abv: 11.5% Price: $NA creamy foaming. Vitis Imports. —M.L. Superiore). Costa dei Peschi is an elegant and un- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA derstated sparkling wine that would pair with sushi or Terre di San VeNAzio Fortunato 2010 Ex- lightly fried calamari. Spicy bubbling is enhanced by 86 tra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- Lucchetta NV Frizzante (Conegliano Val- butterscotch and lemon drop. North Berkeley Imports. secco Superiore). There’s a sweet element of peach 85 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Prosec- —M.L. juice or passion fruit that opens the bouquet of this lu- co “Frizzante” usually implies that the effervescence is abv: 11.5% Price: $NA minous sparkling Prosecco. Pair this wine with spicy softer and less intense than a standard sparkling wine. pork rolls. Il Pioppo. —M.L. This expression, however, offers a steady stream of Cantina Progettidivini 2010 Millesimato abv: 11.5% Price: $18 steely bubbles with citrus, peach and floral overtones. 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Progetto Veneto. —M.L. Superiore). This luminous Prosecco opens with dry- Cà Di Rajo 2010 Millesimato Extra Dry abv: 11% Price: $NA ing mineral tones of talc powder followed by subtle ren- 85 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- derings of peach and citrus. There’s a lemon candy or co Superiore). Creamy mousse and fruity flavors of Maccari Spumanti NV Extra Dry (Coneg- soda-like note at the very end. Sevillana Imports Inc. peach, lime and honeydew melon give this Italian spar- 85 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- —M.L. kler easy, fresh appeal. Pair this luminous bubbly with riore). Fresh, watery and tonic, this easygoing Prosecco abv: 11% Price: $21 slices of Irish smoked salmon and crushed coriander could work as an appetizer wine on a warm spring after- seed. Uva Imports. —M.L. noon. A soft mouthfeel is accented by a spicy close with Le Manzane 2010 Brut (Conegliano Val- abv: 11.5% Price: $14 crushed white pepper. Progetto Veneto. —M.L. 86 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Here’s abv: 11.5% Price: $NA a steely and tonic Brut Prosecco with drying mineral Cantina Progettidivini NV Extra Dry notes followed by white flower and dried herbs. The 85 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Terra Serena NV Extra Dry (Conegliano sharply sparkling nature of this wine would match appe- Superiore). This relatively new producer to the USA 85 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). tizers topped by cream or cheese. Vitis Imports. —M.L. market offers a clean and crisp Extra Dry Prosecco with Easy and tonic, this fresh Prosecco Superiore offers abv: 11.5% Price: $12 aromas of lemon soda, candied fruit and mature peach. dried flower, stone fruit and citrus. It carries through There’s a warm, saturated quality to this fresh Italian to the palate with soft, foamy mousse. Wine Merchants. Le Vigne di Alice NV Doro Brut (Conegli- bubbly. Sevillana Imports Inc. —M.L. —M.L. 86 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 11% Price: $20 Perfect for a glass or two before dinner, this light Pro- secco Brut delivers crisp tones of citrus, white flower Col de’ Salici 2010 Extra Dry (Coneglia- and lime juice. This cheerful Italian sparkling wine does 85 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). prosecco a great job of keeping the palate refreshed and tonic. This easy Prosecco would make a great aperitivo wine Porto Vino Italiano. —M.L. or would pair with light appetizers. It boasts a simple, La Tordera NV Alné Extra Dry (Prosec- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA approachable feel with pretty peach and citrus on the 87 co). There’s a pretty mineral note of brimstone close. Chateau Ste. Michelle. —M.L. or talc powder that runs straight though this luminous Lucchetta NV Calpena Extra Dry (Coneg- abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Prosecco. At the fringes are floral notes of jasmine and 86 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- honeysuckle with a touch of sweet softness on the close. riore). This is a light and tonic Prosecco Superiore that De Stefani NV Brut (Conegliano Valdob- Tesori Wines. —M.L. offers aromas of hay and dried grass backed by peach 85 biadene Prosecco Superiore). This no-fuss abv: 11.5% Price: $NA and citrus. Pair this wine with lightly fried vegetable Prosecco Superiore offers a light, crystalline color with tempura. Progetto Veneto. —M.L. aromas of honeydew melon, peach, citrus and Golden Anna Spinato NV Prosecco 4or Extra Dry abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Delicious apple. The mouthfeel is dry and tonic and the 86 (Prosecco). Packaged with a very fun, yellow wine finishes with spicy effervescence. Holiday Bever- wrap-around label, this fragrant Prosecco offers aro- Malibràn NV Favrèl Brut (Conegliano age. —M.L. mas of dried hay, stone fruit and citrus. It would make 86 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This abv: 11% Price: $NA a great appetizer or afternoon wine and there’s also a

WineMag.com | 25 “Mini Prosecco” version offered in a pocket-friendly San Simone 2010 Perlae Naonis Brut Mil- tra Dry Prosecco. The wine is soft, foamy and rich on 187-ml bottle. Royalty Importers. —M.L. 86 lesimato (Prosecco). Packaged in one of the the finish. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA squat, round bottles to emerge from the Prosecco area abv: 11% Price: $NA of northern Italy, this vintage-dated bubbly offers aro- Astoria NV Cuvée Lounge Extra Dry mas of dried hay, talc powder, white flower and stone Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene 86 (Prosecco). Aromas of citrus, lime and dried fruit. Steely, firm perlage contributes to a sensation of 85 2010 Extra Dry (Prosecco). Easy, simple hay open the easy bouquet of this luminous Prosecco. It dryness. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.L. and clean, this Extra Dry Prosecco from the Treviso shows creamy mousse with a fresh note of stone fruit on abv: 11.5% Price: $14 area of northeast Italy opens with dry notes of grass and the finish. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. herb, followed by sweeter layers of peach and grape- abv: 11% Price: $NA Val d’Oca 2010 Extra Dry Millesimato fruit. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. 86 (Prosecco). This fresh, crisp Prosecco is redo- abv: 11% Price: $NA Cantine Maschio NV Maschio dei Caval- lent of green apple, cantaloupe melon, lime and honey. 86 ieri Extra Dry (Prosecco). Fresh, crisp and There’s a sweet spot of peach and apricot on the finish. Cantina Progettidivini NV Brut (Prosec- clean with a grassy note of dried hay at the back, this Solstars Inc. —M.L. 85 co). This Brut Prosecco opens with bone-dry easy Prosecco gains momentum thanks to background abv: 11% Price: $NA aromas of talc powder and white mineral followed by tones of citrus and peach. There’s a touch of honey slight hints of peach and citrus. It closes with steely, sweetness on the close. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Villa Sandi NV Il Fresco Brut (Prosecco). sharp effervescence and a hint of bitter almond. Sevil- abv: 11% Price: $NA 86 Il Fresco is the perfect bubbly for a moonlit lana Imports Inc.. —M.L. night, a festive atmosphere and dining al fresco. Light abv: 11% Price: $17 Cantine Maschio NV Maschio dei Cava- and luminous with an easy feel and focused floral and 86 lieri Extra Dry (Prosecco). A fresh, light- peach aromas, this bright Prosecco is a real charmer. Capo di Vigna NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). hearted and cheerful Prosecco (in a tiny, tiny pocket- Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 85 A fragrant, sweet bouquet of honeysuckle and sized bottle), you could imagine pairing this Italian spar- abv: 11% Price: $13 jasmine is segued by peach and citrus. This easy Italian kler with mini pizzas or stuffed mushroom appetizers. It sparkler is clean, tonic and would pair with spicy egg feel clean, crisp and fresh overall. —M.L. Voveti NV (Prosecco). From vintner Eugen- rolls or sushi. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA/200 ml 86 io Collavini in Friuli (northeast Italy), comes abv: 11% Price: $NA this new brand of Prosecco. This interpretation shows Carpenè Malvolti NV Brut (Prosecco). loads of dry grass, green apple, spring flower and citrus. Dogarina NV Millesimato Extra Dry (Pro- 86 This historic brand is the godfather of the mas- The effervescence is tonic and firm. Freixenet USA. 85 secco). Although the label reads “Millesima- sively successful Prosecco movement today. This DOC —M.L. to,” it does not carry a vintage date. The bouquet is red- expression from the Treviso subzone offers pristine abv: 11% Price: $NA olent of spicy clove and white pepper and there’s plenty citrus, peach and talc powder aromas. Angelini Wine. of citrus and peach at the back. The finish is smooth and —M.L. Zardetto NV Brut (Prosecco). Zardetto’s slightly sweet. Paulaner HP USA. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $18 86 easy DOC Prosecco (from the newly enlarged abv: 11% Price: $20 production zone) offers a fresh and cheerful drinking Codognè NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Spicy experience with lime, green apple and drying mineral. Gancia NV Brut (Prosecco). Here’s a ripe, 86 chicken skewers, cucumber and cream salad or Winebow. —M.L. 85 luminous Prosecco with golden highlights that taboule would all make excellent pairing partners to this abv: 11.5% Price: $16 opens with aromas of apricot, honeysuckle and a touch fresh, slightly sweet Prosecco sparkler. The wine is soft, of ground clove. The sparkling wine offers sharp effer- foamy and peachy on the finish. . —M.L. Anna Spinato NV Gocce di Luna Moon- vescence and a dry, steely close. OWS. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA 85 drops Extra Dry (Prosecco). Gocce di Luna abv: 11% Price: $NA (moondrops) is an easy, silky Prosecco with creamy Foss Marai NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). mousse and sweet aromas of peach, honeysuckle and Maccari Spumanti NV Extra Dry (Prosec- 86 Light, focused and elegant, this luminous Pro- lemon candy. This refreshing sparkler could pair with 85 co). From the Treviso area of Prosecco, this lu- secco offers simple but genuine aromas of citrus, peach seared scallops or shrimp cocktail. Megawine Inc. minous sparkler offers steely effervescence and sharp and passion fruit. There’s a playful touch of sweetness —M.L. aromas of white flower and dried grass. There’s also on the creamy, bubbly close. VinUS Inc. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $13 a touch of bitter almond on the crisp finish. Progetto abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Veneto . —M.L. Astoria NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). A Pro- abv: 11% Price: $NA Moletto NV S Extra Dry (Prosecco). 85 secco from the recently enlarged DOC zone 86 There’s a grassy note of dried herb or hay at the in northeast Italy, this fresh sparkling wine opens with Perlage NV Sgàjo Extra Dry (Prosecco). back of white flower, citrus and stone fruit. Moletto’s S citrus, peach, dried grass and white flower. It’s an easy 85 From the Treviso area of northeast Italy, this Extra Dry is an easy-drinking Prosecco that would pair sparkler with a fresh, foamy finish. Prestige Wine luminous Prosecco offers easygoing aromas of yellow with finger foods or shrimp canapés. Laird & Company. Group. —M.L. flower and sweet peach. There’s a zesty note of white —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA pepper on the slightly sweet finish. Chartrand Imports. abv: 11% Price: $NA —M.L. Bottega 2010 Millesimato Brut Il Vino dei abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Ruffino NV Extra Dry (Prosecco).The cel- 85 Poeti (Prosecco). From the makers of one of 86 ebrated Ruffino estate in Tuscany enters the Italy’s most popular grappas, this vintage-dated Prosec- San Simone NV Il Concerto Brut (Pro- popular Prosecco category with this brand-new wine. co offers soothing aromas of peach, lime, white peach 85 secco). Il Concerto Brut is a tonic and tight An Extra Dry expression with a tiny hint of sweetness, and spring flowers. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Italian sparkler with dry aromas of lime, talc powder this bright sparkler delivers pear, honey and sweet abv: 11% Price: $15 and crushed white pepper. The wine is fine, smooth and peach. Icon Estates. —M.L. shows a touch of spice on the finish. IBESC Wine Dis- abv: 11% Price: $15 Botter NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Focaccia tributor. —M.L. 85 bread with green olives or sun-dried tomatoes abv: 11.5% Price: $NA would make a fine pairing partner to this easy-going Ex-

26 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Tenuta Cà Bolani 0 Brut (Prosecco). the pool. Floral and peach aromas are woven within the Cantina San Martino NV Brut (Prosecco). 85 Clean, fresh and simple, you could pair this sparkler’s natural sweetness. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. 83 There’s a touch of caramel or butterscotch at wine with spring rolls or Indian samosas. Those exot- abv: 11% Price: $NA the open of the bouquet that gives this wine a thicker, ic spicy foods would match the simple crispness and fatter feel in the mouth. It ends with a savory note of freshness of this informal Italian sparkler. Zonin USA. Dogarina NV Sforsín Frizzante (Prosec- chopped mint or dried oregano as well. Signature Foods —M.L. 84 co). Closed with a white string tied over the and Imports. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $19 cork (spago in Italian), this lightly sparkling, or friz- abv: 11% Price: $NA zante, Prosecco offers mild sweetness with white flow- Tenuta Santomé NV Brut (Prosecco). ers, stone fruit and citrus. It’s refreshing and easy to Cielo e Terra NV Pradio Passaparola Brut 85 From the Treviso area of the recently enlarged drink. Paulaner HP USA. —M.L. 83 (Prosecco). Large, steady bubbling and a sim- Prosecco production zone, this lively bubbly offers aro- abv: 11% Price: $17 ple, clean bouquet are what characterize this no-fuss mas of sweet fruit and flowers (despite its Brut designa- sparkling wine. Pair it with tomato and basil bruschetta tion) with a creamy, soft mouthfeel. VinUS Inc. —M.L. Dogarina 2009 Millesimato Brut (Prosec- or green olive pâté. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA 84 co). Here is a low-key but friendly Brut Prosec- abv: 11% Price: $15 co from the Treviso area of northern Italy that offers a Tenuta Santomé NV Extra Dry (Prosec- clean, luminous appearance and pretty aromas of white La Jara 2010 Millesimato Dry (Prosec- 85 co). This Extra Dry expression of Prosecco flower and stone fruit. The finish is tonic, tight and easy- 83 co). A tuna melt or easy platter of cold cuts and from the Treviso area of northern Italy offers dried flow- going. Paulaner HP USA. —M.L. cheese would pair with this bright Italian sparkler. It’s er and citrus aromas followed by stone fruit and apple. abv: 11% Price: $20 a Dry expression, which means it tastes sweetish in the It’s an easy, fresh wine that would pair with appetizers mouth, and shows notes of peach and citrus. —M.L. or vegetable dishes. VinUS Inc. —M.L. El Vin NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Fun pack- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 11% Price: $NA 84 aging and a simple, but pristine aromatic profile make this Prosecco a good choice for informal drinking Maschio dei Cavalieri NV Frizzante (Pro- secco). Valdo NV Brut (Prosecco). This easy Brut opportunities. Dried grass, hay, citrus and white flower 83 The word frizzante refers to a style of 85 Prosecco opens with a light, luminous appear- are subtle elements of the bouquet. Royalty Importers. Prosecco with softer, less fizzy effervescence. This ex- ance and tonic bubbling. Aromas of dried flower and —M.L. pression is fresh, clean and redolent of dried grass and white flower. It’s also very thin in the mouth. —M.L. crushed white pepper give the wine a tight, linear finish. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 10.5% Price: $NA Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $11 Eugenio Collavini NV Brut (Prosecco). Plozner NV Brut (Prosecco). This easy Pro- From a celebrated vintner in Friuli (northeast 84 secco opens with aromas of honey and peach Zonin NV Cuvèe 1821 (Prosecco). Vintner Italy) comes this tonic and clean Prosecco. Luminous 83 with a hint of lemon candy or lemon soda on the finish. Gianni Zonin was instrumental in pushing for packaging and big bubble size give this sparkler a pris- 85 It’s fresh, clean and should be served at informal occa- the enlargement of the Prosecco production zone and tine, informal personality. Aromas include white flower, sions with friends and close family. Vintners Estate Di- this wine is made under the terms of those new rules. honey and lemon zest. —M.L. rect Importing. —M.L. It’s an easy, informal apéritif wine with aromas of dried abv: 11% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $9 hay and citrus. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $15 Inalto 2010 Extra Dry Premium (Prosec- Supèrbio NV Frizzante (Prosecco). Made co). A new brand from the amazing world of 84 with organically farmed grapes and fastened Cantina Progettidivini NV Frizzante Spa- Prosecco, this simple, crisp wine delivers a compact 83 with the traditional string (spago) closure, this frizzante go (Prosecco). Spago refers to the cloth 84 mouthfeel and bright aromas of white flower, citrus and Prosecco opens with a luminous color and ripe peach string that acts as a capsule to tie down the cork. Tra- stone fruit. Atlas Imports. —M.L. and apricot aromas. The mouthfeel is rather flat and abv: 11.5% Price: $16 ditional Prosecco was always closed with the spago and dense. —M.L. this expression follows suit with characteristic aromas abv: 10.5% Price: $NA of lime and honeydew melon. Sevillana Imports Inc.. Pitars NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Pitars’ Ex- —M.L. 84 tra Dry Prosecco is a thin and simple wine with La Jara NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). There’s a abv: 11% Price: $NA characteristic aromas of stone fruit, citrus, honey and 82 slightly pungent note on the bouquet that masks hay. There’s a succulent sweet spot on the tight finish. some of the fresh floral and fruity aromas inherent to Capo di Vigna NV Frizzante (Prosecco). Great Sunsan Wine Imports. —M.L. Prosecco. Certified organic, the wine is fresh, clean and 84 A creamy, simple and very fresh Italian sparkler, abv: 11.5% Price: $18 crisp in the mouth. —M.L. this Frizzante Prosecco offers a soft, foamy feel in the abv: 11.5% Price: $NA mouth with tones of peach, lemon and apple on the fin- Cà Di Rajo 2010 Millesimato Dry (Prosec- ish. —M.L. 83 co). The Charmat method of sparkling wine La Jara NV Brut (Prosecco). There aren’t abv: 11% Price: $NA sees secondary fermentation in large pressurized tanks. 81 that many organic Proseccos out there, and this The process results in easy and informal wines like this expression from La Jara is thin, crisp and refreshing. Cescon Italo Storia e Vini NV Arancio Ex- Dry expression (with a tad more sweetness). The foamy There is a pungent grassy note at the outset that needs 84 tra Dry (Prosecco). This Extra Dry Prosecco bubbly delivers dried flower and easy peach character- a few minutes to disappear. —M.L. from the Treviso area of northern Italy delivers a dense istics. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA bouquet of ripe apricot and chopped mint aromas. It abv: 11.5% Price: $13 also offers a thicker body with a pungent hint of ground clove on the finish. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. Canella NV Brut (Prosecco). A perfect mix- Brachetto d’acqui abv: 11% Price: $17 83 ing agent for Campari or peach cocktails, this bright Prosecco delivers stone fruit, lime and honey. Or, Il Conte d’Alba NV Stella Rosa Imperiale De Stefani NV Zero Gran Cuvée Extra Dry drink it on its own with spicy chicken wings. Empson 85 (Brachetto d’Acqui). Brachetto d’Acqui is a 84 (Prosecco). Easy, tight and watery, this infor- (USA) Ltd. —M.L. sweet, fizzy red wine that is popular in northwest Italy. mal Prosecco would hit the spot on a hot summer day by abv: 11% Price: $13 The wine is slowly making its mark in the USA thanks

WineMag.com | 27 to its easy-drinking character and fresh berry nuanc- followed by soapy foam and soft mousse. It offers plush, Donelli NV Amabile (Lambrusco Grasp- es. This expression opens with ruby mousse and sweet feminine sweetness. Total Beverage Solution. —M.L. 85 arossa di Castelvetro). Lambrusco is a fizzy raspberry. Maddalena Brands. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $NA red wine from central Italy that has the natural acidity abv: 6% Price: $NA to cut through cheese tortellini and buttery pasta dishes. Marchesi di Barolo 2010 Zagara (Mosca- This enjoyable Amabile (or slightly sweet) expression is Rinaldi 2010 Bricco Rioglio (Brachetto 85 to d’Asti). This Moscato d’Asti is fragrant and redolent of red berries, wet earth and red beet. Opici 85 d’Acqui). There’s a touch of chopped herb fresh but not over the top. In fact, it offers elegant aro- Wines. —M.L. or spice at the front of this sweet red fizzy wine from mas of white flower, peach blossom and stone fruit. Try abv: 8.5% Price: $12 northern Italy. Otherwise, the wine follows through it with semifreddo cream and raspberry sauce. Vintel- with tons of raspberry, blueberry and sweet cherry. Ky- ligence. —M.L. sela Père et Fils. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $18 veneto abv: 6% Price: $27 Torlasco 2010 Moscato d’Asti. Easy, soapy Moletto 2008 Brut Millesimato (Veneto). Rinaldi 2009 Bricco Rioglio (Brachetto 85 and foamy, this pretty Moscato d’Asti would pair 87 This luminous vintage-dated sparkling wine 85 d’Acqui). Brachetto d’Acqui is a sweet spar- with dried cookies or almond biscuits. Silky mousse and from northeast Italy recalls the freshness and ease of kling red wine that would pair with chocolate-based a floral note characterize the soft finish. Prestige Wine the popular Prosecco category. Cut grass, spring flower, desserts or savory foods such as sliced salami and cold Group. —M.L. talc powder and citrus form the bright bouquet. Laird cuts. This expression is packed tight with lively berry abv: 5.5% Price: $NA & Company. —M.L. fruit. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 6% Price: $27 gavi Vigneti Villabella NV Rebianco Brut Vigne Regali 2010 Rosa Regale (Brachet- 86 (Veneto). Rebianco is a sparkling blend of 85 to d’Acqui). Brachetto d’Acqui is a sweet, red La Scolca 2006 Soldati La Scolca Brut Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that offers a fragrant sparkling wine that would pair with white chocolate des- 89 (Gavi). Made with the native Cortese grape of bouquet of white flower and honeysuckle. The bubbling serts, pecan pie or moist chocolate chip cookies. It’s an northern Italy, this luminous sparkling wine opens with is soft and tonic with a creamy, peachy aftertaste. Wine easy, fruity wine with loads of berry, cassis and raspberry toasted notes of roasted almond, white pepper and ma- Wave. —M.L. on the sweet finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. ture peach or apricot. Firm, steely effervescence gives abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 7% Price: $NA the wine a sharp, determined personality. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. Bottega NV Bottega (Crystals) Brut abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 85 (Veneto). The attraction here is the beauti- moscato d’asti ful packaging. Embedded with sparkling crystals that Principessa Gavia 2009 Gavi. This spar- spell Bottega, this showcase wine will appeal to a young Cascina La Ghersa 2010 Giorgia (Mosca- 86 kling Gavi from northern Italy offers loads of crowd. The sparkler is Pinot Noir, made as a white wine, 87 to d’Asti). Soapy and musky with aromas of fresh citrus backed by stone fruit and spring flowers. It with a floral bouquet and a lean mouthfeel. Palm Bay scented candle and perfumed flower, Giorgia is a light finishes with clean, zesty bubbling and a cheerful touch International. —M.L. and delicately sweet Moscato d’Asti. Pair this pretty of acidity. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA dessert wine with chopped fruit salad. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 5% Price: $NA Zardetto NV Brut Private Cuvée (Veneto). Broglia 2010 La Meirana Brut (Gavi). 85 This easy-drinking sparkling wine offers grassy Luca Bosio 2010 Moscato d’Asti. Here’s a 85 Large, steely bubbles quickly rise to the surface notes and talc powder, backed by green apple and zesty 87 soft, musky Moscato d’Asti that delivers foamy of this pale, golden sparkling wine from northern Italy. citrus. There’s a pleasing point of peachy sweetness on mousse and fragrant aromas of peach blossom, lemon The Brut sparkler presents simple but clean aromas of the thin finish. Winebow. —M.L. cream and honeysuckle. The sweet wine offers im- citrus, peach and yellow flower. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 pressive heft and staying power as well. Quintessential abv: 12.5% Price: $21 Wines. —M.L. Zardetto NV Rosé (Veneto). This Rosé spar- abv: 5.5% Price: $18 84 kler opens with a pretty pink color and intense lambrusco aromas of mature berry, raspberry candy and zesty Rinaldi 2010 Bug Juice (Moscato d’Asti). grapefruit. A sweet but oddly spicy note characterizes 87 Despite its strange name, Bug Juice is a soft, Cantina della Volta 2009 Lambrusco di the finish. Winebow. —M.L. plush, sweet Moscato with musky notes of soapy flower 87 Modena. This ruby-colored Lambrusco from abv: 12% Price: $17 and scented candle. It shows beautiful elegance and care- the Modena area of central Italy offers pleasing aromas ful craftsmanship. Very nice. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.L. of forest berry, raspberry, white almond and a touch abv: 6% Price: $20 of chopped mint. It delivers a crisp, but dry finish that other bubblies would pair with cheese-filled pasta or ravioli in butter Enrico Serafino 2010 Moscato d’Asti. sauce. It’s simple, clean and very easy to drink. . —M.L. Eugenio Collavini 2007 Brut Ribolla Gial- 86 Sweet, floral and delicate, this fresh Moscato abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 la (Friuli). You’d be hard pressed to think of d’Asti opens with fragrant aromas of white flower and another Italian sparkling wine made from Ribolla Gialla honey followed by stone fruit and honey. It offers full, Donelli NV Lambrusco Reggiano. From grapes, a native variety of northeast Italy. This rare ex- generous mousse on the finish. Palm Bay International. 86 the Reggiano area of Emilia-Romagna in cen- pression offers aromas of yellow flower and stone fruit —M.L. tral Italy, this fizzy red wine offers aromas of chocolate followed by a smooth, fresh mouthfeel. MW Imports. abv: 5.5% Price: $15 and cherry liqueur. The wine is almost dry, with a sweet —M.L. spot at the middle, and has the acidity and firmness to abv: 12% Price: $50 Marco Negri 2010 Marsilio (Moscato pair with cheesy pasta. Opici Wines. —M.L. 86 d’Asti). Marsilio is a delicate, golden Mosca- abv: 9% Price: $18 Vigne Regali 2007 Cuvée Aurora Rosé to d’Asti with floral aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine 88 (Alta Langa). This is a perfect wine for out- door receptions or apéritif time. This pale pink sparkler

28 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 is refreshing and clean, with pretty berry and floral nu- Colli di Serrapetrona NV Blink Brut Rosé italian sweet wines ances, backed by a creamy mouthfeel and bright acid- 84 (Marche). Made with Vernaccia Nera grapes, ity. All these qualities make it perfect for pairing with a this pink rosé sparkling wine is redolent of sweet fruit, veneto wide array of finger foods. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. raspberry, dried sage, honey and lemon soda. Tight, ton- abv: 12% Price: $NA ic effervescence and fresh acidity keep the palate clean. Ca’ Rugate 2008 La Perlara (Recioto di —M.L. 94 Soave). Delicious and super-intense in the Vigne Regali 2004 Cuvée Aurora Talen- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA most beautiful way, this golden Recioto di Soave im- 88 to (Alta Langa). From the Alta Langa area parts aromas of honey, yellow rose, dried apricot and of northern Italy, this classic method sparkling wine Demarie NV Birbet (Piedmont). Birbet is a candied orange skin. It’s sweet and thick but not in a (made with Pinot Nero and Chardonnay) offers a deli- red, sweet sparkling wine with creamy mousse heavy or cloying way. Lovely. Saranty Imports. —M.L. cate touch of stone fruit and citrus followed by creamy 84 and bright aromas of blueberry, raspberry and sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $63/500 ml effervescence. This smooth and elegant wine would pair cherry. Try it with coffee cake or chewy chocolate chip beautifully with appetizers. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Suavia 2006 Acinatium (Recioto di cookies with chopped nuts. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA Soave). This beautiful Recioto di Soave (a des- abv: 6.5% Price: $18 93 sert wine made with Garganega grapes) opens with a Fabiano 2007 Argillaia Brut Millesima- deep amber color and gorgeous aromas of candied fruit, Il Conte d’Alba NV Stella Rosa Imperia- 87 to (Lugana). Made with Turbiana di Lugana butterscotch and lightly toasted almond. The mouthfeel le Rosé Moscato (Piedmont). Here’s a rosé grapes native to the Italian lakes region in northern It- 84 is smooth, silky and long-lasting. Very nice. Vias Im- version of a sweet sparkling Moscato that opens with a aly, this bright sparkling wine shows a touch of butter- ports. —M.L. pale pink color and pretty aromas of sweet honey and scotch followed by floral aromas of yellow rose and hon- abv: 13.5% Price: $55/375 ml eysuckle. The mouthfeel is dry, crisp and tonic. Admiral berry candy. Soft, easy sweetness brings it together in Imports. —M.L. the mouth. Maddalena Brands. —M.L. De Stefani 2005 Refrontolo Passito (Colli abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 9.5% Price: $NA 90 di Conegliano). Aged three years in oak, this ruby red dessert wine (made with air-dried Marzemino Velenosi 2010 Brut Passerina (Marche). Tosti NV Moscato (Asti). Creamy and foamy grapes) would pair with fudge brownies with chopped Passerina is an indigenous native grape found 87 84 with soft tones of peach and honey, this cheer- walnuts inside. Soft and succulent, it follows through in central Italy and this Brut expression represents one ful Asti would pair with fruit salad, cookies or can be with dark fruit, leather, licorice and cherry liqueur. It of the only sparkling versions of the wine available in consumed as an early afternoon appetizer wine (thanks doesn’t have the bitterness you sometimes get with the U.S. It’s simple and clean but also floral and fra- to its low 7.5% alcohol) simply on its own. Admiral Im- sweet red wines. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. grant with a spicy touch of citrus zest on the close. Give ports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $75/500 ml this unique bubble a try. Domaine Select Wine Estates. abv: 7.5% Price: $NA —M.L. Speri 2007 La Roggia (Recioto della Val- abv: 12% Price: $NA Emilio Bulfon NV Sciaglin (Venezia Gi- 88 policella Classico). A touch of dried apple ulia). This frizzante sparkling wine offers a skin and cinnamon stick open the nose of this hearty, Mottura NV Extra Dry Rosé (Salento). 83 cool, crisp mouthfeel followed by aromas of butter- red dessert wine. It presents tight tannins, with a sweet, Here’s an absolutely terrific, but informal spar- 86 chewy chocolate aftertaste. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. kling rosé from southern Italy (made with Negroamaro scotch, yellow flower, peach and a touch of crushed abv: 13.5% Price: $60/500 ml grapes). Sweet berry, chopped mint and peach come to pepper. It’s a perfect companion to easy finger foods. the fore and the wine is soft and slightly sweet. It’s easy, —M.L. fresh and would make a great cocktail choice. Siema abv: 13% Price: $NA other northern LLC. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10 Il Conte d’Alba NV Stella Rosa Fior italian sweet wines 83 d’Arancio (Colli Euganei). If you’ve never Giacomo Vico 2010 Birbet (Piedmont). heard of “Orange Moscato” you’re probably not alone. Tramin 2009 Terminum (Alto Adige). In- 85 Here’s a sweet red sparkling wine that could The wine presents a pale, golden color but the aromas 94 credible aromatic intensity opens the amazing bouquet of this Gewürztraminer-based dessert wine. pair with baked cheese appetizers, or chocolate-based definitely tend toward tangerine skin and orange zest. You’ll recognize flavors of candied orange, jasmine, desserts. It opens with a pretty ruby color and aromas It’s frizzy, creamy and very sweet on the close. Maddale- crème caramel and toasted almond. The wine is smooth, of black cherry and raspberry. Vino LeFebvre. —M.L. na Brands. —M.L. thick and very persistent overall. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 6% Price: $18 abv: 5.5% Price: $NA abv: 11% Price: $108/375 ml

Il Conte d’Alba NV Stella Rosa Imperiale Tosti NV Rosato (Piedmont). This pink Maculan 2008 Torcolato Vespaiolo 85 Moscato (Piedmont). Lightly fizzy and lumi- 83 sweet sparkler (made with fragrant Moscato nous in appearance, this sweet Moscato sparkler would (Breganze). Torcolato dessert wine offers a grapes) opens with an intense bouquet of raspberry, jas- 92 pair with moist sponge cake or fruit tarts. Very sweet fla- very clean presentation of aromas that span honey al- mine and honey. It’s a blush wine with a soft, foamy fin- vors of lavender honey and ripe summer peach accent mond and dried jasmine to stone fruit and caramel. Try ish. Admiral Imports. —M.L. the close. Maddalena Brands. —M.L. this beautiful wine with sharp Gorgonzola cheese or abv: 6.5% Price: $NA abv: 6% Price: $NA Stilton. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40/375 ml Vigne Regali NV Tener Brut (Italy). This Vigneti Villabella NV Rosé (Bardolino 85 light and refreshing Brut sparkling wine repre- 83 Chiaretto). This dry rosé sparkling blend Scubla 2007 Cràtis (Colli Orientali del Fri- sents a blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay grapes. The would pair with easy appetizers or fried vegetable tem- 92 uli). This smooth and silky dessert wine opens wine offers lively floral aromas backed by white peach pura. The wine is sharp and crisp, with a steely effer- with a luminous amber-gold appearance and bright aro- and passion fruit and a clean, crisp mouthfeel. Banfi vescent close. Bardolino Chiaretto is from the shores of mas of candied orange, apricot and honey. Pair it with Vintners. —M.L. Lake Garda in northern Italy. Wine Wave. —M.L. dried almond biscuits. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $49/375 ml

WineMag.com | 29 Elena Walch 2009 Cashmere passito no, Tuscany that recalls etched stone or finely crushed upy with a lively golden color, pair this dessert wine 91 (Alto Adige). Wow, it’s hard to beat the aro- white pepper. Beyond that are generous tones of res- with crème caramel or brûlée. Michael Skurnik Wines. matic intensity of this Passito Gewürztraminer from in, butterscotch and candied orange. The mouthfeel is —M.L. cool-climate Alto Adige in northern Italy. The huge creamy, soft and rich. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml bouquet is redolent of pressed yellow flower, jasmine, abv: 15% Price: $NA/375 ml honey and candied fruit and Indian rose water. Artisan Fongoli 2006 Passito (Montefalco Sa- Wines, Inc. —M.L. Buccia Nera 2004 Vin Santo (Colli Etru- 87 grantino). The popular dry red wine, Sagran- abv: 10.5% Price: $55/375 ml 92 ria Centrale). A traditional blend of Trebbi- tino di Montefalco, was originally born as a sweet sac- ano (60%) and Malvasia, this amber-colored vin santo ramental wine much like this expression from Fongoli. La Roncaia 2008 Ramandolo. Ramandolo offers smokey, resin-like aromas beyond candied fruit, Sweet overtones of dried currant and cassis are backed 90 is a traditional dessert wine made with Verduzzo caramel and butterscotch. It’s thick and powerful with a by a thick wall of jackhammer tannins. Massanois Im- Friulano grapes in northeast Italy. It shows candy-like blast of syrupy sweetness on the close. Potomac Selec- ports. —M.L. aromas of butterscotch and caramel confection backed tions. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $NA/375 ml by apricot and dried rose potpourri. Domaine Select abv: 19% Price: $25/500 ml Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $58/375 ml Querciavalle 1998 (Vin Santo del Chianti southern italy 92 Classico). This precious vin santo opens with Beccarello 2008 Oro Cason Brusà Vino lovely aromas of caramel, butterscotch, vanilla bean and Donnafugata 2009 Ben Ryé (Passito di 88 Passito (Lison-Pramaggiore). Made with toasted honey-coated almond. There’s a resiny feel in 95 Pantelleria). Ben Ryé can claim to be both a air-dried Tocai Friulano grapes (now simply called the mouth that is typical of this carefully aged dessert cult wine and a commercial wine, and that’s a very diffi- Friulano), this golden wine opens with apricot tones, wine, and the close is sweet and tart at the same time. cult goal to achieve. Sweet, syrupy and crisp at the same peach, candied fruit and honey. It’s a simple, clean Tricana Imports. —M.L. time, this Sicilian dessert wine opens with a luminous sweet wine with a crisp touch of acidity on the finish. abv: 16% Price: $47/500 ml amber color and intense aromas of prune, dried apri- Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.L. cot, honey, caramel and custard cream. It’s seriously abv: 14% Price: $45/375 ml Castellare di Castellina 2005 S. Niccolò delicious. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. 89 (Vin Santo del Chianti Classico). There’s —M.L. Josef Weger 2005 Rodon Maso delle a nutty, almost peanut-like aspect to the bouquet of abv: 14.5% Price: $40 88 Rose (Vino da Tavola). An aromatic blend of this golden vin santo that gives the wine a drying, dusty Traminer and Sauvignon Blanc (with small percentages feel. This is a particularly nice quality because it cre- Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Privilegio of Pinots Bianco and Grigio), Rodon is a clean dessert ates contrast against the wine’s syrupy-sweet mouthfeel. 92 (Campania). A luminous dessert blend of Fia- wine with chewy aromas of stone fruit and apricot with Winebow. —M.L. no and Falanghina, Privilegio is an opulent and creamy a touch of rubbery gum on the close. Magellan Wine abv: 16% Price: $72/375 ml wine with sweet tones of candied fruit, honey and white Imports. —M.L. almond that last long on the palate. Pair this beauty with abv: 11% Price: $41/375 ml a platter of aged cheese and sweet marmalade. Palm other central Bay International. —M.L. Villa Rubini 2009 Picolit (Colli Orientali ­italian sweet wines abv: 12% Price: $60/500 ml 88 del Friuli). Villa Rubini’s golden Picolit dessert wine opens with a thick, dense mouthfeel and bright Il Collino di Todi 2010 Collina d’Oro Pas- Di Majo Norante 2009 Apianae (Molise). aromas of orange zest, candied fruit and crème caramel. 89 sito (Umbria). This deeply aromatic passito 91 Apianae opens with a pretty golden color and Pair this wine with savory, aged cheese. U.S. Wine Im- dessert wine offers an extremely floral bouquet with delivers loads of beautiful, sweet flavors at an attractive- ports. —M.L. overtones of jasmine and orange blossom. It tastes ly low price. Orange zest, dried apricot and butterscotch abv: 14.5% Price: $25/500 ml sweet and sticky and could be paired with carrot cake are evident components of the bouquet. Winebow. Edi- or lemon-lime cream pie. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct tors’ Choice. —M.L. Gaierhof 2010 Giallo (Trentino). Here’s a Importing . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20/500 ml 84 light, slightly sweet white wine that offers floral abv: 12.5% Price: $20/375 ml aromas backed by stone fruit and citrus. Packaged in Librandi 2008 Le Passule Passito (Val a squat, round bottle, it delivers no-fuss drinking and Sartarelli 2008 Passito (Verdicchio dei 91 di Neto). Le Passule opens with a golden-am- good cheer. Conexport. —M.L. 89 Castelli di Jesi). This bright passito des- ber color and bright aromas of candied orange, apricot, abv: 9.5% Price: $20 sert wine delivers a steady stream of apricot, honey, al- honey and caramel. This pretty dessert wine from Cal- mond and candy-like aromas. The wine is thick, syrupy abria in southern Italy is made with air-dried Mantonico and ends with a fresh note of citrus zest. Vias Imports. grapes (a local native variety). Winebow. —M.L. vin santo —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30/500 ml abv: 16% Price: $NA/500 ml Renieri 2001 Principe di Renieri (Tos- Torrevento 2009 Dulcis in Fundo (Mosca- 96 cana). This is a stellar dessert wine from Tus- Colli di Serrapetrona 2007 Sommo 90 to di Trani). This very fragrant and floral des- cany (the blend is , and Malvasia) 88 (Marche). Sommo is a red dessert wine that sert wine from southern Italy offers aromas of apricot, executed in a vin santo style. It opens with a dark amber opens with a dense, thickly concentrated appearance honey, toasted almond and candied fruit. The mouth- color and beautifully complex aromas of caramel, toast- backed by aromas of currants, black cherry, barbecue feel is thick and sweet but not over the top and for that ed almond, butterscotch and candied fruit. The mouth- smoke and white pepper. It’s clean and simple with a reason you can pair this wine with most fruit-based des- feel is soft, silky and opulently creamy. Michelangelo firm tannic bite on the close. —M.L. serts. —M.L. Selections. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA/500 ml abv: 13% Price: $NA/500 ml abv: 11.5% Price: $NA/375 ml Mocali 2006 Moscadello di Montalcino. Botromagno 2005 Gravisano Passito Boscarelli 2002 Familiae (Vin Santo di 88 Mocali’s golden Moscadello represents a cat- 89 (Murgia). Gravisano is a sun-drenched dessert 94 ). There’s a beautifully aged egory of wine that was popular before the hearty red wine from the Murgia area of Puglia in the deep south quality to this luminous vin santo from Montepulcia- Brunello took the Montalcino spotlight. Sweet and syr- of Italy that offers candied fruit, honey roasted almond

30 | wine enthusiast | october 2011 and butterscotch flavors. The wine is soft and chewy Freestone 2009 Estate Grown Chardon- Calera 2010 Thirty-Fifth Anniversary with a thick, sweet close. Winebow. —M.L. 89 nay (Sonoma Coast). Presents with equal 87 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). Sweet in jammy abv: 15% Price: $35/375 ml parts crisp acidity, buttered toast new oak and ripe pine- apricot and tangerine fruit, with lots of sweet caramel, apple and kumquat fruit. The result is big and flashy, honey and buttered toast flavors from oak, this Char- Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2008 Cori- but a little Frankensteinian. —S.H. donnay is a good example of the modern style of ripe- 87 mei (Salento). The concept of a dessert wine abv: 14.1% Price: $55 ness. —S.H. made with hearty red Primitivo grapes is very rare in- abv: 14.4% Price: $30 deed, but this producer pulls it off with style and con- Knights Bridge 2009 Alder Springs Char- fidence. Smoky barbecue tones and jammy aromas of 89 donnay (Mendocino). There’s beautiful fruit Château Potelle 2010 VGS Chardonnay blackberry preserves set the stage. Bitter tannins mark from a beautiful vineyard in here somewhere but first 87 (Napa Valley). Impressive, but too sweet for the close. —M.L. let there be oak, lots of it (100% new French), giving comfort, despite great streamlining acidity that keeps abv: 17% Price: $NA/500 ml the wine a dark golden hue and the nose an interesting the finish clean. Tastes like sugared orange tea and pine- meaty, baked apple quality. Taste-wise the wine is al- apple jam, with the buttered toast and caramel of oak. Earns extra points for minerality and structure. —S.H. most savory and leathery, full of ripe, exotic fruit, hugely abv: 14.2% Price: $45 California whites creamy with a smackdown finish. Not for the meek but with time could get quite lovely. —V.B. Falcone 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria chardonnay abv: 15% Price: $65 87 Valley). Good and easy to like, but too oaky by half, with smoky char flavors dominating. Underneath La Fenêtre 2009 Los Alamos Vineyard Gary Farrell 2009 Keefer Ranch Char- that is a crisply dry, minerally Chardonnay, with fine or- Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). donnay (Russian River Valley). A very rich 93 88 ange and Meyer lemon flavors. It would be nice to try Lots of fine structure in this Chardonnay, with crisp Chardonnay, explosive in lemon custard, grilled pine- this as an unoaked wine. —S.H. acidity, minerals and even some firm tannins giving a apple and the ripest peaches imaginable. At the same abv: 14.2% Price: $25 framework to the tangerine and smoky oak flavors. time, there’s a firm, tangy minerality. Some will find, Feels tight and elegant in the mouth. Drink this upscale however, that the oak dominates it all with a blast of Gary Farrell 2009 Carneros Selection Chard with rich fare, like ahi tuna and steamed lobster buttered toast and caramel. —S.H. 87 Chardonnay (Carneros). A somewhat stan- with drawn butter. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 dard Chardonnay, ripe in green apples, tropical and cit- abv: 14% Price: $35 rus fruits and honey, with the requisite jacket of toasty Husch 2010 Chardonnay (Mendocino). oak. Shows a refreshing acidity. —S.H. Freestone 2009 Pastorale Vineyard Char- 88 Good price for a clean, briskly acidic Char- abv: 14.3% Price: $32 92 donnay (Sonoma Coast). The challenge donnay of such elegance and balance. Far from a fruit with a Chardonnay this big is to wrestle the power into bomb, its pineapple, lime and guava flavors are evened McFadden Vineyard 2010 McFadden submissive balance. As it is, the wine is overwhelming out by minerals and slightly sour lees, and the oak has 87 Farm Chardonnay (Potter Valley). A light- in buttery new oak and awesomely ripe pineapple and been minimally applied. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. er-style Chardonnay with lemony zest and the mineral- apricot fruit. It’s almost undrinkable now. However, abv: 13.9% Price: $15 ity of a Sauvignon Blanc that’s perfectly quaffable and a there’s a brisk streak of acidity, and It’s totally dry, with very fair price. —V.B. a stony minerality, like a lick of steel. Try cellaring for Jeriko 2010 Dijon Clone Chardonnay abv: 13.7% Price: $16 3–4 years. —S.H. 88 (Mendocino). This Demeter-certified Biody- abv: 14.1% Price: $80 namic Chardonnay has nice color and full apple aromas, Peters Family 2008 Sonoma Stage Vine- as well as a lot of depth and texture. The finish veers into 87 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). With La Fenêtre 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard caramel and vanilla, no stranger to oak. —V.B. pineapple, green apple and lime flavors brightened by 92 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). The abv: 13.8% Price: $46 crisp acidity, this Chardonnay is totally dry, although it winery’s style is a leaner, more minerally and elegant picks up some sweetness from oak barrels. It’s not very Chardonnay, rather than the blowsy, ripe kind so popu- Pavillion Crossing 2010 Chardonnay complex. But it is clean and elegant. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $36 lar these days. This ’09 is quite fine, with brisk acid- 88 (Lodi). This $13 wine is quite fine, deep in col- ity and a steely tang to the orange and apricot flavors. or with a rich, flinty nose. It’s big and full with drops of RustRidge 2008 Estate Chardonnay Drink over the next three years with shellfish in cream honey throughout and a layer of acidity on the finish. (Chiles Valley). This Chiles Valley produc- and butter sauces. —S.H. Modest in alcohol too. Best Buy. —V.B. 87 er, on the eastern edge of the Napa Valley, has made a abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.1% Price: $13 big Chardonnay that doesn’t exude much aromatically at first and veers sweet, but is otherwise balanced and La Fenêtre 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Silver 2009 White Hawk Vineyard Char- could develop some interesting minerality over time. Block Eleven Chardonnay (Santa Maria donnay (Santa Barbara County). Oak 91 88 —V.B. dominates this Chardonnay, with buttered toast and Valley). This is a very dry, acidic wine. It’s rather aus- abv: 15.3% Price: $43 tere, not showing much richness now. With a minerally butterscotch flavors. Underneath is a ripe wine, with tang, It’s more like a French Chablis than an opulent pineapple and tangerine fruit, brightened with crisp Silverado 2009 Estate Grown Chardon- California Chardonnay. Give it credit for elegance and acidity. Made in the popular style and pretty good, but 87 nay (Napa Valley). A nice Chardonnay to finesse. —S.H. the oak is a little too much. —S.H. drink now, with rich tropical fruit, apple and pear fla- abv: 14.2% Price: $60 abv: 12.8% Price: $28 vors, enhanced with vanilla and smoky oak. One of the more successful Silverado Chardonnays of recent years. Roth 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bouchaine 2009 Estate Vineyard Char- —S.H. 91 For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. 87 donnay (Carneros). Lots of rich, ripe flavor abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $22 in this sweet young Chardonnay. It’s packed with cit- rus and tropical fruits, limes and pears. The influence of Anaba 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma Silverado 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). lees shows in a slight sourness throughout. Drink now. 86 Coast). Sweet and extracted in pineapple, tan- 90 For full review see page 7. —S.H. gerine, lime and vanilla flavors, this Chardonnay also abv: 14.9% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 is generously oaked, which gives it even richer vanilla

WineMag.com | 31 and buttered toast notes. It’s flashy, yet would benefit little on the sweet side, with herb, tangerine, pineapple, Scott Family 2010 Dijon Clone Chardon- from greater dryness and restraint. Size isn’t everything. vanilla cream and oak flavors. —S.H. 83 nay (Arroyo Seco). Nice acidity and mineral- —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $14 ity on this Chard, as you’d expect from this cool-climate abv: 14.2% Price: $28 Monterey region, and the pineapple and orange flavors Hendry 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). are ripe and pure. The big problem is excessive sweet- Freemark Abbey 2010 Chardonnay 84 An earthy, herbal wine, showing only a modi- ness. It’s cloying, almost a dessert wine. —S.H. 86 (Napa Valley). This is an elegantly construct- cum of orange and peach fruit, accented by sweet, but- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ed wine. It’s not especially rich, but subtle in citrus fruit, tery oak. Not much going on, from this winery with a roasted nut, jasmine, vanilla and oak flavors, brightened sound but lackluster record with Chardonnay. —S.H. Arrow Creek 2010 Coastal Series Char- with notable acidity. A note of green sage is distracting. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 82 donnay (California). This is a simple wine, —S.H. Chardonnay in name only. It’s soft, sweet and boring, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Kokomo 2009 Peters Vineyard Chardon- although lots of people will like the orange and oak fla- 84 nay (Russian River Valley). A simple, oaky vors. —S.H. Calera 2010 Thirty-Fifth Anniversary Chardonnay, made in the popular style but ultimately abv: 12.5% Price: $18 85 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Almost as cloying. The vanilla, buttered popcorn and caramel fla- sweet as a dessert wine, with buttered toast, honey, car- vors cover pineapple and orange jam fruit. —S.H. Double Bond 2008 Edna Ranch Vineyard amel corn and pineapple jam fruit flavors. There’s good abv: 14.1% Price: $28 82 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). A simple Char- acidity, but the sweetness makes it simple. —S.H. donnay, oaky and sweet in pineapples and other tropi- abv: 13.6% Price: $18 Lulu B. 2009 Chardonnay (California). cal fruits. Tastes like a couple spoonsful of sugar were 84 For this everyday price, you get a sound Char- added. —S.H. Healdsburg Ranches 2010 Unoaked donnay, rich in fruit, cinnamon spice and buttercream abv: 14.2% Price: $28 85 Chardonnay (North Coast). This unoaked flavors. A little sweet and simple, but a good value for Chard has a fragrant floral nose, a lot of grapefruit and what you pay. Best Buy. —S.H. Hunters Grove 2010 Chardonnay (Cali- stone fruit flavor and slight sweetness with a mineral abv: 13% Price: $7 82 fornia). Sweet and boringly simple, with sug- chaser on the finish. —V.B. ary pineapple, orange and buttered toast flavors, made abv: 14.4% Price: $13 MacMurray Ranch 2009 Chardonnay in the popular style. —S.H. 84 (Sonoma Coast). Sweet, ripe pineapple jam, abv: 13% Price: $18 Redtree 2010 Chardonnay (California). honey, vanilla and buttered toast and popcorn flavors 85 For full review see page 9. Best Buy. characterize this simple Chardonnay. Production was Oakville Ranch 2009 Chardonnay abv: 12.5% Price: $8 32,000 cases. —S.H. 82 (Oakville). A simple, dull wine, from a produc- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 er that has struggled with Chardonnay for years. Tastes 446 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey). Tons soft and sweet, with some vegetal notes. —S.H. 84 of melon, orange, apricot and pineapple flavors Motos Liberty 2009 Chardonnay (Califor- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 in this honey-sweet, creamy wine. It’s not very compli- 84 nia). A fine, sound everyday Chardonnay, brisk cated, but the acidity is fine. —S.H. and clean in acidity, with ripe, sweet tangerine and but- Small Wonders 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 tered toast flavors. —S.H. 82 sian River Valley). Sweet and simple, with abv: NA Price: $12 buttered toast, buttered popcorn and pineapple jam fla- Adler Fels 2010 Chardonnay (Russian vors. Gets the basic Chardonnay job done. —S.H. 84 River Valley). A standard Chardonnay, dry SeaGlass 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Bar- abv: 13% Price: $10 and nicely acidic, with citrus, pear, vanilla, lees and oak 84 bara County). Sweet, simple and fruity, flavors. —S.H. packed with orange, melon and pineapple flavors, in a Surf Point 2010 Chardonnay (California). abv: 13.5% Price: $14 buttery, creamy texture. —S.H. 82 As sweet as a dessert wine, with simple pineap- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ple jam flavors. —S.H. Anaba 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Char- abv: 12.5% Price: $9 84 donnay (Sonoma Coast). So sweet, it’s more Hess Collection 2009 Chardonnay (Napa like a dessert wine. The flavors are of sugary vanilla 83 Valley). Basically a good wine, but way too ZD 2010 Chardonnay (California). A bi- cream, buttered toast and pineapple jam, with plenty of sweet and oaky, like a sugary soda drink. It’s the poster 80 zarre wine, with sugary apricot and tangerine caramelized oak. If this is your style, it’s for you. —S.H. child for the international criticism of California Char- flavors whose acidity tastes unnatural. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $37 donnay, with pineapple, orange, vanilla and buttered abv: 13.5% Price: $34 popcorn flavors. —S.H. Anaba 2009 Wente Clone Chardonnay abv: 14.4% Price: $22 84 (Sonoma Coast). Way too sweet and oaky. gewürztraminer Tastes like a dessert wine, with vanilla custard, buttered Lorenzi Estate Wines 2009 Reserve toast, pineapple jam, cinnamon and brown sugar fla- 83 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Based in Tem- Husch 2009 Gewürztraminer (Anderson vors. —S.H. ecula, Lorenzi is trying its hand with Napa Valley Char- 88 Valley). Some will find this wine off-dry. Oth- abv: NA Price: $32 donnay here and not with the best results. The wine has ers won’t even discern the residual sugar. It straddles a dark golden color and plenty of vanilla, pear and pine- that interesting line, marked by crispness and tart fla- Bogle 2010 Chardonnay (California). For apple but on the finish the citrus is so sour it’s tough to vors of limes, guavas, oranges and jasmine tea. A fine 84 this everyday price you get a Chardonnay that recommend. —V.B. Gewürztraminer, from a region in Mendocino County frankly is as good as Chards costing a few bucks more. abv: 14.2% Price: $35 that excels at the variety. —S.H. It’s a simple charmer, with pineapple jam, vanilla and abv: 13.7% Price: $14 oak flavors. —S.H. Rodney Strong 2010 Chardonnay (So- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 83 noma County). Sweet and oaky, with flavors McFadden Vineyard 2009 Gewürztramin- of buttered popcorn and pineapple jam. Made to appeal 88 er (Potter Valley). Pungently perfumed, all Grandmaster 2010 Chardonnay (Napa to the popular style. —S.H. lemon, mandarin orange and spice, this Gewürztramin- 84 Valley). A pretty good, everyday Chardonnay, a abv: 13.5% Price: $14 er is moderately textured and aromatically pretty, an in-

32 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 teresting companion to spicy food but also the myriad of well as a spectrum of Mexican, Vietnamese or Indian McFadden Vineyard 2009 Sauvignon flavors found around a holiday meal. —V.B. fare. —S.H. 87 Blanc (Potter Valley). McFadden’s SB is a abv: NA Price: $16 abv: 13.8% Price: $25 fine, easy drinker, light in weight and feel, like a lemon custard in summer. Have it with fish or chicken and be Husch 2010 Late Harvest Gewürztramin- Draxton 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry happy. —V.B. 85 er (Anderson Valley). Very sweet in honey 90 Creek Valley). A really good Sauvignon Blanc, abv: 14.6% Price: $16 and bubbling brown sugar, but thin in fruit. There are so easy to drink, yet complex and elegant as well. Fully orange, apricot and vanilla flavors, but the sweetness dry, it shows intricate flavors of citrus fruits, green ap- Rodney Strong 2010 Charlotte’s Home dwarfs them. —S.H. ples, gooseberries and tangy minerals, with a long, spicy 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Northern Sonoma). abv: 12% Price: $20/375 ml finish. Terrific example of how well this white variety Nice and easy to drink, with sweetened orange tea, flourishes in Dry Creek Valley. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lime, vanilla, honey and white pepper flavors, bright- Adler Fels 2010 Gewürztraminer (Rus- abv: 13% Price: $18 ened with zesty acidity. —S.H. 82 sian River Valley). Ripe, soft and sweet in abv: 13.5% Price: $14 sugar. The orange, vanilla and honeysuckle flavors turn Husch 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoci- cloying on the finish. —S.H. 90 no). There’s no oak at all on this savory young Simaine Cellars 2010 Larry Venturi Vine- abv: 12% Price: $14 Sauvignon Blanc, which delivers its richness directly to 87 yards Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino). A the palate, undiluted. Those flavors are of green fruits: little closed still, Simaine’s SB is very lemony with good melons, apples, limes and the slightly sour, flowery balance of acidity though the finish veers sour. From or- pinot gris/grigio tang of gooseberries. Fine acidity makes it all brisk and ganic, dry-farmed grapes. —V.B. mouthwatering. An outstanding Sauvignon Blanc for to- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Domino 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). day’s ethnic fare, at a great price. Best Buy. —S.H. 89 For full review see page 8. Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $14 Clif Family 2010 The Climber Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $7 86 Blanc (California). A fun, easy wine with lots Occasio 2010 Del Arroyo Vineyard Fumé to like. It’s a little sweet, but nicely crisp in acidity, with Horse & Plow 2010 Block 882 Pinot Gris 90 Blanc (Livermore Valley). For full review tantalizing citrus fruit, white flower, vanilla and butter 84 (Carneros). A heavy wine, weighed down by see page 6. flavors. A dash of Riesling, Muscat and Viognier fattens oak and lees, and tasting rather sour. The flavors veer abv: 14.5% Price: $24 up the blend. —S.H. toward tart green apples and limes. Ambitious, but lacks abv: 14.1% Price: $14 vibrancy and sustaining interest. —S.H. Barber 2009 Lazarie Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.2% Price: $25 88 (Dry Creek Valley). A lovely, clean Sauvignon Maisonry 2010 Hanson-Hsieh Vineyard Blanc. With no oak, it stars ripe lemon, lime, pineapple, 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A nice, Motos Liberty 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cali- green apple and pear flavors, with the peppery spices fruity Sauvignon Blanc, a little sweet and simple, but 84 fornia). A little on the sugary sweet side, but the variety displays at its best. —S.H. satisfying nonetheless for its array of ripe pineapple, cit- the apricot and tangerine jam flavors are brightened by abv: 13% Price: $15 rus, lime, green apple and spice flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Kenefick Ranch 2010 Estate Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $32 88 Blanc (Calistoga). Lots of zippy acidity in Castle Rock 2010 Pinot Grigio (Monterey this dry wine, which has those tart, green gooseberry Barton 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Central 83 County). Frankly sweet in orange, melon and flavors you find in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. But 84 Coast). Lots of sweet, sugary citrus fruit fla- vanilla flavors, this simple Pinot Grigio is fortunately It’s also rich in yellow tropical fruits. —S.H. vors in this wine, which is also high in acidity. The com- balanced by crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $24 bination gives it a sweet and sour taste, like a Chinese abv: 13.5% Price: $11 sauce. —S.H. Morgan 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 terey). A welcome return to form for Morgan’s sauvignon blanc Sauvignon Blanc, after a few disappointing vintages. Clif Family 2010 Rte Blanc Sauvignon This 2010 is dry and crisp in acidity, with ripe goose- 84 Blanc (Napa Valley). This is a stainless-steel- Pont de Chevalier 2009 Sauvignon Blanc berry and Meyer lemon fruit flavors. A touch of French fermented Sauvignon Blanc. It’s clean and crisp in acidi- 91 (Knights Valley). Picture-perfect coastal Cali- oak adds welcome richness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ty, but too sweet. Tastes like sugared orange, mango and fornia Sauvignon Blanc, dry and crisp in acidity, with abv: 13.8% Price: $16 pineapple fruit juice. —S.H. mouthwatering flavors of citrus fruits, tart green apples abv: 14.1% Price: $18 and minerals. Really elegant, with a steely streamlined Tangent 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Edna framework that makes it super versatile at the table. 88 Valley). Shows the brilliantly etched fruit and H & G 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Knights —S.H. brisk acidity that mark an Edna Valley white wine. Tre- 84 Valley). Except for excessive sweetness, this is abv: 14.2% Price: $40 mendous in citrus and wintergreen flavors, its mouth- a nice Sauvignon Blanc, at a good price. It’s crisp and cleansing quality makes it ideal for an appetizer. Or try ripe in citrus, peach, green apple and vanilla flavors. But Silverado 2009 Miller Ranch Sauvignon with Asian-style poultry and pork dishes. Best Buy. the sugariness is a distraction. —S.H. 91 Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 Joseph Phelps 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Mayacamas 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 84 (St. Helena). Very ripe and sweet in orange, Château Potelle 2010 VGS Explorer Sau- 87 (Mount Veeder). Good acidity gives this Sau- lemon and lime flavors that are almost sugary, like a fruit 90 vignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Quite a fancy vignon Blanc a nice crispness. The flavors are of limes drink. At the same time, there’s a brisk cut of acidity. Sauvignon Blanc, from the four-sided bottle to the puri- and green apples, with a stony minerality. It’s an ele- The result feels odd. —S.H. ty of citrus fruit, gooseberry and spice flavors. The rich- gant wine, with a touch of wood. A little tough at first, it abv: 13.5% Price: $32 ness is brightened by crisp acidity, braced with a stony grows in charm in the glass. —S.H. minerality. Great with chicken, veal and pork dishes, as abv: 14.4% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 33 Galante 2010 Estate Bottled Sauvignon wine with vanilla-flavored desserts and white and yellow balanced and crisp, that shows how sometimes an off- 82 Blanc (Carmel Valley). This is a sugary Sau- fruits. —S.H. beat blend can be better than a varietal wine. Made vignon Blanc. It tastes like a sweetened pineapple, or- abv: 14.4% Price: $24/375 ml from Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Viognier, it’s ange and peach fruit juice drink. —S.H. deliciously off-dry. Each variety brings something to the abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Horse & Plow 2010 Grist Vineyard Viog- table, resulting in a whole that’s superior to its parts. Ed- 89 nier (Dry Creek Valley). Surprisingly dry itors’ Choice. —S.H. Grandmaster 2010 Sauvignon Blanc and crisp for a Dry Creek Valley Viognier. Usually abv: 12.8% Price: $26 82 (Knights Valley). Sweet and simple, like pine- these wines are fatter and sweeter, but not this one. apple, orange and mango fruit juice from the supermar- It’s streamlined and elegant, with savory apricot, Mey- Kenefick Ranch 2010 Estate Pickett Road ket. —S.H. er lemon and slightly underripe white peach flavors. A 91 (Calistoga). One of the drier, crisper white abv: 12.5% Price: $13 nice food wine as an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Rhône-style wines out there, and hence one of the best. Pinot Grigio. —S.H. These Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne blends SeaGlass 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa abv: 13.4% Price: $25 tend to be too sweet, but this one’s firm and minerally. 82 Barbara County). Barely ripe, with a pun- Brisk acidity highlights zesty lime, pear and white flow- gent, ammonia edge to the citrus fruits. It’s very dry and Calicaro 2010 Savannah Catie’s Corner er notes. —S.H. crisp in acidity. —S.H. 88 Vineyard Viognier (Russian River Valley). abv: NA Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Lots of honey-sweet peach, pear, pineapple and but- tered toast flavors in this crisp, clean Viognier. It shows Andis Wines 2010 Bill Dillian Vineyard El Roy 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek the opulence you expect in this exotic variety. —S.H. 90 Sémillon (Amador County). A very bright, 80 Valley). So unripe, it smells and tastes like am- abv: 14.4% Price: $32 tropical Sémillon from Amador-based Andis. Winemak- monia. Only for those who like their Sauv Blancs ex- er Mark McKenna uses 35-year-old vines to make this treme New Zealand-style. —S.H. Generation 7 2009 Viognier (Temecula layered, slightly sweet but completely in balance wine. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 87 Valley). A Viognier full of peach, honey and Enjoyable lychee, just-ripe pineapple and fig permeate; grapefruit sweetness that finishes dry. The wine is easy- the wine gets even better as it opens. —V.B. going, pleasant and eye-poppingly low in alcohol, an in- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 riesling triguing combination of factors from this Temecula Val- ley-based producer. —V.B. Zocker 2010 Paragon Vineyard Grüner McFadden Vineyard 2010 Riesling (Pot- abv: 12% Price: $22 90 Veltliner (Edna Valley). For full review see 89 ter Valley). Lemony, with the tiniest touch page 7. Editors’ Choice. of sweetness, McFadden’s Riesling is nicely balanced Curtis 2010 Viognier (Santa Barbara abv: 13.5% Price: $20 between acidity and fruit, with a slightly nutty flavor. 83 County). Annoyingly sweet, like chilled orange —V.B. and lemon tea sweetened white sugar. There’s a nice Horse & Plow 2010 Harvester White abv: 14.2% Price: $18 edge of acidity, and lots of people will like it. But still, it 88 (North Coast). Horse & Plow continues to im- isn’t really a dry table wine. —S.H. press with its moderately priced wines that taste great. Loredona 2010 Riesling (Monterey). If abv: 14.3% Price: $25 Harvester is a blend of 38% Pinot Gris, 34% Riesling 87 you like your on the sweet side, this and 28% Chardonnay that’s austere aromatically and pretty wine is for you. It’s brisk in Central Coast acidity, deep golden in color, woody and tasting of tart green ap- with citrus, peach, honeysuckle and spice flavors that moscato ple, unearthed mushrooms with a lemony finish. —V.B. finish clean and long. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $10 Domino 2010 Moscato (California). For 85 full review see page 9. Best Buy. Trenza 2009 Blanco (Edna Valley). What SeaGlass 2010 Riesling (Monterey Coun- abv: 11% Price: $7 88 a nice wine to drink with almost anything that 84 ty). The main thing to know about this Ries- wants a white wine, from chicken or pork to potstickers. ling is that It’s quite sweet in oranges and pineapples. Motos Liberty 2009 Moscato (Califor- It’s bone dry and brisk in Edna Valley acidity, with fla- The all-important acidity is a little too soft for balance. 84 nia). You have to classify this as a dessert wine, vors of lemons, limes, green apples, minerals and white —S.H. because it’s quite sweet in orange and apricot jam, va- flowers. Albariño and Grenache Blanc. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $12 nilla and buttercream flavors. Crisp acidity fortunately abv: 14.1% Price: $20 makes for a clean finish. —S.H. Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2010 abv: 10% Price: $12 Yorkville Cellars 2009 Eleanor of Aquita- 84 Riesling (California). Is this a dessert wine 88 ine (Yorkville Highlands). A creamy blend or a table wine? It straddles the line. Let’s call it off dry, Doon Buggy 2010 Moscato (Central of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc from a long- with slightly sugared tangerine, apricot, vanilla bean 83 Coast). Very sweet in white sugared apricot standing producer of dozens of wines in the Yorkville and spice flavors that finish clean and zesty. Best Buy. and tangerine flavors, this wine fortunately has enough Highlands appellation in Mendocino. The wine is rich —S.H. crisp acidity for balance. Caters to the current liking for and layered, tasting of lime and crème brûlée. —V.B. abv: 12.1% Price: $8 sweet Moscato. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 11% Price: $10 Conundrum 2010 (California). An offbeat viognier 87 blend of several white varieties including Char- other whites donnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. It’s a little on the Calera 2010 Doux Viognier (Central sweet, simple side, with spicy flavors of apricots, honey- 90 Coast). Shows the exotically ripe flavors of Cal- Chalk Hill 2008 Botrytised Sémillon suckle flowers, citrus fruits, vanilla bean and gingersnap era’s Viogniers, with apricots, tangerines and pears. But 95 (Chalk Hill). For full review see page 3. cookies. Should be pretty good with Thai, Vietnamese, also incredibly sweet in honey, with a very high residu- abv: 13.5% Price: $45/375 ml Chinese fare. —S.H. al sugar content. Drink this creamy, full-bodied dessert abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Château Potelle 2010 VGS Explorer 91 Epice (Napa Valley). A lovely wine, rich and

34 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Girasole Vineyards 2010 Pinot Blanc Curtis 2010 Heritage Blanc (Santa Bar- If you like your bubblies with jammy sweetness, it’s for 87 (Mendocino). Barra of Mendocino’s Girasole 83 bara County). A blend of Viognier and Rous- you. —S.H. label produces this Pinot Blanc from organically grown sanne, this wine is way too sweet. Tastes like a sugared abv: 11% Price: $13 grapes, a hugely citrus-driven wine full of minerality orange and pineapple fruit juice drink. Smoky, caramel- that’s light and dry. —V.B. ized oak makes it even sweeter and cloying. —S.H. Four Paws & A Tail NV Strawberry (Cali- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.9% Price: $20 85 fornia). This very sweet bubbly has candied flavors of, yes, strawberries, as well as raspberries and SheNAdoah Vineyards 2010 Chenin Maisonry 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard vanilla. The sweetness is balanced with vital acidity. 87 Blanc-Viognier (Amador County). A blend 83 Marsanne (Napa Valley). Disappointing, —S.H. of 55% and 45% Viognier, with the Chen- given its origin from this fine vineyard. The wine is dull abv: NA Price: $13 in strongly represented. This wine unveils caramel pop- and sweet, with orange, cashew and oak flavors. —S.H. corn and oak-influenced pear-vanilla, its layers of tex- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 ture workable with a wide range of food. —V.B. rosé wines abv: 13.5% Price: $14 sparkling wines Curtis 2010 Heritage Rosé (Santa Barba- Tangent 2010 Paragon Vineyard Albariño 88 ra County). A really nice Provençal-style rosé, 87 (Edna Valley). An easy to drink white wine, of Schramsberg 2006 Brut (Sonoma Coast). based on Grenache and Mourvèdre. The winemaker a style increasingly popular. It’s unoaked, allowing pure 90 There’s a sugary sweetness to this Pinot Noir used no oak, leaving nothing but clean, brisk, slightly citrus, honey and spice flavors to star. Brisk Edna Valley and Chardonnay blend, in roughly equal measures. It’s sweet raspberry, cherry, bacon and white pepper fla- acids and minerals make the mouthfeel lively. —S.H. rich and ripe in raspberries, limes and oranges, with vors. With salty ham or sausage foods, this is a great abv: 13.5% Price: $17 the doughy, leesy sourness that marks a good sparkling blush wine. —S.H. wine. Feels somewhat rough and aggressive now, but abv: 14.8% Price: $18 Valley of the Moon 2010 Pinot Blanc (So- elegant and complex. Could develop bottle complexity 86 noma County). Tastes like a Chardonnay, with over this decade. —S.H. Virage 2010 Rosé (Napa Valley). This tropical fruit, peach and green apple flavors wrapped abv: 12.9% Price: $70 88 blush wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and into buttercream and vanilla. Ripe and sweet, but bal- . As you’d expect, it’s a big wine for a rosé, a little anced by crisp acidity. A nice, rich white wine for drink- Derby 2007 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo heavy, but there’s a nice cut of acidity that helps. Is it ing now. —S.H. 88 County). Made 100% from Pinot Noir, this dry? Sort of, with a jammy finish of black raspberries. abv: 14% Price: $14 bubbly has an orange copper color, and is full-bodied Try this easy-drinking wine with grilled tuna or a ham- and dry. The flavors are of raspberries, strawberries and burger. —S.H. B Cellars 2010 Blend 23 (Napa Valley). yeast, and the all-important mousse is refined. A little abv: 13.3% Price: $24 86 This unusual blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon eccentric, but try it with sushi. —S.H. Blanc and Viognier combines the attributes of crisp abv: 12.1% Price: $54 Jawbone Winery and Vineyards 2010 Re- acidity and fruitiness. The result is a delicious, fine 83 serve Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). Made from wine, rich in citrus, apricot and pear flavors that are a J Vineyards & Winery NV Brut Rosé (Rus- Zinfandel, this darkly colored blush wine is heavy and little sweet in white sugar. —S.H. 87 sian River Valley). The bubbles are a little sugary sweet in cherries, vanilla and cinnamon spice. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 scoury on this delightfully dry rosé, which makes it feel —S.H. rough in the mouth. Aside from that, it’s rich and com- abv: 13.6% Price: $30 Husch 2010 Chenin Blanc (Mendocino). plex in orange, strawberry, vanilla and yeasty flavors. 84 They made this wine a little on the sweet side. —S.H. Forest Glen 2009 White Merlot (Califor- The residual sugar officially is 1.8%, meaning it’s easily abv: 12.5% Price: $28 82 nia). As sweet as a dessert wine, with sugary perceptible. The sweetness is partially balanced by acid- raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. ity, but it still finishes like sugared pineapple and peach Rock Wall 2010 Blanc de Blanc (Califor- abv: 11.5% Price: $11 juice. —S.H. 87 nia). This blend of Chardonnay and Muscat abv: 12.8% Price: $11 Canelli is frankly sweet, in the Rock Wall style, but not too much, and fine acidity and a tangy minerality help California reds Barton 2010 The River (Central Coast). A provide balance. The orange, vanilla and honeysuckle 84 blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Sauvi- flavors are delicious. —S.H. cabernets & blends gnon Blanc, this white wine has sugary orange and apri- abv: 10.4% Price: $18 cot flavors. Brisk acidity fortunately provides some bal- Blue Rock 2009 Best Barrels Cabernet ance, but It’s almost as sweet as a dessert wine. —S.H. Four Paws & A Tail NV Almond (Califor- 95 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). So young abv: 14.6% Price: $22 86 nia). This very sweet wine has the usual bubbly now, it’s all primary fruit, oak and tannins. But It’s a flavors of yeast and citrus fruits, but also an Amaretto, stunner. The fruit is enormous, packing explosive black- Intelligent Design 2009 Cuvée Blanc almond liqueur richness. It’s one of the sweetest spar- berry, black cherry, blueberry and dark chocolate fla- 84 (Central Coast). Feels great as soon as you kling wines available in California. —S.H. vors, while oak brings an elaborate smoky sweetness. sip, with an attack of acid-inspired oranges and guavas. abv: 11% Price: $13 Feels dramatic and important, and should age well for Then the white sugar sweetness kicks in, diminishing ten years, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. this Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc blend. Four Paws & A Tail NV Brut (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $95 —S.H. 85 Definitely on the sweet side, like iced strawber- abv: 14.1% Price: $34 ry tea with white sugar. But It’s clean and crisp and bub- Monticello 2008 Corley Reserve Caber- bly. —S.H. 95 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- Anaba 2009 Coriol White (Sonoma Val- abv: 11% Price: $13 view see page 3. 83 ley). Overtly sweet, with a white sugar edge to abv: 14.2% Price: $72 the peach, pineapple and golden mango flavors. More Four Paws & A Tail NV Grand Cuvee (Cal- of a dessert wine than a dry table wine. —S.H. 85 ifornia). This is a frankly sweet sparkling wine, Rubicon Estate 2008 Rutherford. Even abv: 14.2% Price: $28 with sugary orange, lime, strawberry and vanilla flavors. 95 though 2008 was not the greatest Cabernet vin-

WineMag.com | 35 tage, Rubicon has produced one of the most delicious good wine, right up there with the fantastic 2007 Cask. given this wine’s history, will be rocking by 2020. Cellar bottlings of the year. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with Classic Rutherford Cabernet, dry, softly tannic and de- Selection. —S.H. a little Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot for complex- licious, with herb-infused blackberry and cherry fruit. abv: 14.5% Price: $250 ity, it’s so delicious now, you might want to finish off the Definitively not in the modern style of fat overripeness, bottle. Soft and velvety, it appeals with blackberry and but balanced and elegant. Shows all the hallmarks of an Joseph Phelps 2008 Insignia (Napa Val- cherry pie filling flavors, and the oak appliqué is per- ageable wine, but you can drink it now. It gets better 93 ley). A glamorous wine, rich and complex, with fect. Combines the ripeness of this central Napa Val- and better as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. lots going on. Lacks perhaps some of the depth of, say, ley vineyard with impeccable winemaker taste, resulting abv: 14.8% Price: $75 the ’03 and ’04, more on a par with the 2007, but still in a gorgeous wine. Will develop through this decade. a very fine Insignia. With rich blackberry and cassis fla- —S.H. Staglin 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon vors wrapped into thick tannins and fine new oak sweet- abv: 14.8% Price: $175 94 (Rutherford). For full review see page 4. Cel- ness, it’s nowhere ready to drink now. Give it a rest until lar Selection. 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Blackbird Vineyards 2009 Arise (Oak abv: 14.9% Price: $185 abv: 14.5% Price: $200 94 Knoll). A glorious wine. Based on Merlot, with nearly equal parts of the two Cabernets, it’s softly ZD 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Long Meadow Ranch 2008 Cabernet smooth and delicious right now. Totally bone dry, yet 94 (Napa Valley). Here’s one for the cellar. It’s 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review rich and sweet in cherries, berries, chocolate and cedar, an intense, massively concentrated wine, packed with see page 4. Editors’ Choice. it satisfies on every level. Expensive, yes, but a relative blackberry, black currant, dark chocolate and crême de abv: 13.5% Price: $45 bargain for a great Napa wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. cassis flavors. If that sounds delicious, it is, and the tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 nins are as fine and complicated as Napa gets. So tasty Louis M. Martini 2008 Lot No. 1 Cabernet now, you can drink it with a great steak, and should eas- 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review Charles Krug 2008 Estate Grown Cel- ily develop bottle complexity over the next 8–10 years, see page 4. Cellar Selection. 94 ebrating 150 Years Cabernet Sauvignon perhaps much longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $120 (Napa Valley). Loads of sweet, pure, ripe and refined abv: 14.7% Price: $125 blackberry fruit in this dry, young Cabernet. It’s very Beringer 2008 Private Reserve Cabernet tannic, with a lockdown astringency, but the fruit is so Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There’s a dusty, strong, it punches right through. The idea here clearly 93 (Howell Mountain). For full review see page tannic dryness to this wine that makes it tough to drink is the cellar. Eight years seems like no problem. Twenty 4. Cellar Selection. now. Deep down inside is a ripe core of blackberries, as years may not even be pushing things. Cellar Selec- abv: 14.3% Price: $86 juicy and sweet as if they were freshly picked on a hot tion. —S.H. summer day. All the signs are that this Cabernet is age- abv: NA Price: $150/1.5 L Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon able. Give it until 2015 and see what it’s doing. Cellar 93 (Spring Mountain). For full review see page Selection. —S.H. Conn Creek 2007 Collins Holystone 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $115 94 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hel- abv: 14.4% Price: $86 ena). A big, strong powerhouse of a Cabernet. None Bialla 2009 Vita Cabernet Sauvignon of the parts have come together yet. Sweet, smoky oak Charles Krug 2008 Vintage Selection 92 (Napa Valley). Rich and flashy, from the get- over here, flamboyantly ripe blackberry and cherry fruit 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is go. It’s dry and smooth, with fierce tannins giving a hit there, fine, ripe tannins free-floating over all. In four Krug’s flagship Cabernet, produced since 1944. Always of astringency to the ripe, oaky black currant and crème more years, this lovely Cab should be undergoing sec- 100% varietal, it’s a big, tannic wine, made for aging. de cassis flavors. Give it five years in the cellar to start to ondary development in the bottle, so hold until 2015 if The ’08 is a lovely wine, with classic old-style Cab fla- mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. you can. Cellar Selection. —S.H. vors of blackberries, currants, herbs and cedar. It’s cer- abv: 15.2% Price: $125 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 tainly higher in alcohol than in the old days, but still maintains balance. Give it six years, at least. Cellar Se- Charles Krug 2008 Family Reserve Gen- Conn Creek 2007 Truchard Vineyard lection. —S.H. 92 erations (Napa Valley). Fruit is the hallmark 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carneros). A ter- abv: NA Price: $75 of this blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon but with rific Cabernet, dry and rich and dramatically layered. one-third Merlot. It’s flamboyant in blackberries and Tremendous in blackberry and currant flavors, its firm Conn Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon cherries, so ripe and pure, while oak adds an equal mea- tannnis come from both the grapes themselves and the 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Ed- sure of sweet toast and smoke. With firm, ripe tannins, oak barrels in which the wine was aged. Conn Creek has itors’ Choice. this wine needs time in the cellar. Should begin to come really been at the top of the Cabernet game in recent abv: 14.5% Price: $25 into its own after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. years. Cellar this lovely wine until 2015, when it should abv: NA Price: $50 begin to blossom. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Hall 2008 Segassia Vineyard Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $45 93 Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). For full review Charles Krug 2008 X Clones Cabernet see page 4. 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A good, elegant Darms Lane 2008 Bon Passe Vineyard abv: 14.9% Price: $150 and young Cabernet, whose brisk tannins strongly sug- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For gest time in the cellar. Shows a hearty, deep core of full review see page 3. Joseph Phelps 2008 Backus Vineyard blackberries, with an alluring coat of smoky cedar. Give abv: 14.8% Price: $60 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A big it at least six years, but it could surprise after a decade wine, saturated in color and tremendously extracted or more. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Francis Ford Coppola 2007 Archimedes in fruity richness. Explodes in blackberries, cassis and abv: NA Price: $100 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). sweet new oak, and the tannins are strong and refined. For full review see page 3. Not particularly drinkable now, because the parts are Château Potelle 2007 VGS Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $52 only clumsily melded, but seems like a serious cellar 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Extraordinari- candidate. Should begin to blossom in 6–8 years and, ly concentrated in blackberries, blueberries and black Rubicon Estate 2008 Cask Cabernet currants. So strongly sweet in fruit and oak, it’s almost 94 Sauvignon (Rutherford). An exceptionally undrinkable now, tasting like a melted dessert tart. Yet

36 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 the minerality, tannins and overall structural integrity cedar flavors, with a long finish. Will provide satisfying W.H. Smith 2008 Purple Label Cabernet strongly suggest ageability. Cellar this young wine until drinking over the next 4–6 years. —S.H. 90 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). A little too at least 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 soft for ageability, but a very delicious wine. Not quite abv: 14.5% Price: $75 in the league of the wonderful 2007, but offers rich, ripe Hendry 2007 Hendry Vineyard Red (Napa flavors of blackberries, cherries, cola and cedar, with all Hall 2008 Exzellenz Sacrashe Vineyard 90 Valley). Big, heavy, extracted, tannic and dry. kinds of earthy, minerally complexities. Give it a firmer 92 Red Wine (Rutherford). For full review see That pretty much sums up this blend of all five Bor- mouthfeel and the score would soar. —S.H. page 5. deaux varieties, with Petit Verdot in the majority. It’s abv: 14.2% Price: $58 abv: 15% Price: $165 potent in blackberry and black currant flavors, with an undertow of minerals. Should age well over the next Kirkland Signature 2008 Signature Se- Hendry 2007 Hendry Vineyard Cabernet eight years, without necessarily becoming more distin- 89 ries Mountain Cuvée Cabernet Sauvi- 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review guished. —S.H. gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $38 abv: 14.1% Price: $19 abv: 14.4% Price: $55 Linked 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Titus 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Jean Edwards 2008 Seventy Four-Forty 90 (Knights Valley). This is a thoroughly modern 89 (Napa Valley). As rich as it is, this is a some- 91 One Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Cabernet. It could come from the Napa Valley floor, and what generic Cabernet. It’s ripe and fruity and oaky, So ripely soft and delicious, it’s drinkable now. Real- is not particularly representative of Knights Valley. But with appealing blackberry, currant and smoky wood fla- ly pleases the palate with sweet blackberries, cherries it is flashy, with massively ripe blackberry, red currant, vors, wrapped into firm tannins. With a sweet finish, it’s and cassis, accented by smoky oak. Fortunately, there’s oak flavors, with oak providing a rich jacket of toast. flashy, if not particularly complex or ageworthy. —S.H. enough of a tannin-acid balance to give structure to all So high in alcohol and soft, it seems unlikely to age, so abv: 14.5% Price: $60 this opulence. Could develop over the years. —S.H. drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 15.2% Price: $120 W.H. Smith 2008 Bronze Label Cabernet 89 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). This is the Monticello 2008 Tietjen Vineyard Caber- Louis M. Martini 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- winery’s junior version of their very fine Purple Label 91 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Impressively 90 gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page Cabernet. It’s a very good wine, if a little eccentric for rich and ripe in fruit, offering waves of black cherries 6. . Editors’ Choice. a Cabernet Sauvignon. With its spices and briary berry, and chocolate. Feels soft and lush and luxurious in the abv: 14.2% Price: $25 smoked meat and wild herb flavors, it could almost be a mouth, with a sweet oak finish. Certainly dazzles with Zinfandel. —S.H. opulence, but the softness and sweetness makes you Monticello 2008 Corley State Lane Vine- abv: 14.2% Price: $36 wonder about its ageability. So drink between now and 90 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). A 2013 for freshness. —S.H. “wow” wine that will dazzle most Cabernet lovers. It’s ZD 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- abv: 14.2% Price: $65 so rich in blackberries, blueberries, milk chocolate and 89 ley). Tastes immature now, with flashy, sweet oaky nougat, it’s almost like a candy, except that for all blackberry, cherry and raspberry jam fruit flavors, and a Alpha Omega 2008 Era (Napa Valley). the perceived sweetness, it’s dry. The texture is soft rich coating of smoky oak. The tannins are complex and 90 This is a Bordeaux-style blend based on the enough to drink now. —S.H. impressive. Not showing well now because it’s so direct, two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc. It’s made in the abv: 14.2% Price: $65 but it’s possible that six years in the cellar will begin to modern style, soft, ripe and oaky. Floods the mouth bring about secondary bottle character. —S.H. with black cherry and raspberry flavors, sweetened Monticello 2008 Corley Yewell Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $55 with caramelized oak, and undeniably delicious. How- 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Made in ever, a combination of high alcohol and excessive soft- the style of Monticello’s 2008s, a ripe, softly delicious Blue Rock 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- ness seems to limit ageability, so enjoy over the next few wine. It packs lots of berry, cherry, currant and choco- 88 gnon (Alexander Valley). Tastes like ripe- years. —S.H. late fruit, with a savory earthiness suggesting green ol- ness ran away with this wine. The blackberry flavors are abv: 15.1% Price: $195 ives. Flashy enough to drink now, and could gain bottle explosive, making it taste like jam, while the oak is very interest over the next six years, if not longer. —S.H. strong, almost overpowering in smoky char. Pretty good, Bon Coeur 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.2% Price: $65 but overworked. Drink soon. —S.H. 90 (Oakville). Very rich in blackberries and cas- abv: 14.1% Price: $45 sis, almost sweet, and the oak adds to the impression of Moon Eyes 2006 Lapis Luna Cabernet sweetness with smoky caramel. Almost chocolaty, with 90 Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review see page Bon Coeur 2008 Cuvée Marilyn Caber- a minty tang. Definitely in the modern style, soft and 8. Best Buy. 88 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A little too flashy. We’ll see if it ages. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $14 soft and sweet, especially at this price, when you want abv: 14.5% Price: $90 something with more structure. But there’s no denying Rutherford Ranch 2007 Reserve Caber- the richness. Offers masses of ripe blackberries, cur- Bon Coeur 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sau- 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- rants, dark chocolate and baking spices. Drink now– 90 vignon (Napa Valley). So ripe, it’s like drink- view see page 7. Cellar Selection. 2014. —S.H. ing the Platonic essence of cherries and blackberries, abv: 15% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 sweet and satisfying in fruity richness. Oak adds the usual level of flashy toast. It’s a little on the soft side, but Thomas Fogarty 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Mayacamas 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon dramatically layered. Hard to tell where it’s going down 90 gnon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Still dry and 88 (Mount Veeder). Lots of dry elegance in this the road, so drink over the next six years. —S.H. tough in tannins at the age of four-plus years, this Cab wine. It’s also more acidic than your typical Napa Cab- abv: 14.6% Price: $65 shows the intense fruit of a mountain vineyard. It’s pow- ernet, with a tart bite. The tannins are young and force- er-packed in blackberries and cassis, with a firm, stony ful, and the finish is totally dry. As presently constitut- Falcone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso minerality that makes it feel hard. Drink over the next ed, it’s somewhat tough and lean. But the core of cher- 90 Robles). A flashy wine that shows how ripe six years. —S.H. ries and blackberries suggests some degree of ageabilty. and sweetly soft Paso Robles gets Cabernet. It’s rich abv: 14.1% Price: $32 Hold until 2015. —S.H. in blackberry and cherry pie filling, currant, anise and abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 37 Roth 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- quibble is the acidity, which is overly sharp and feels Magness 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 der Valley). Sweet and ripe in black cherries, odd, given how ripe the wine is. —S.H. 86 (Napa Valley). A little sharp and aggressive in currants, mocha and cedar, a rich, soft wine that suc- abv: 14.8% Price: $55 texture, giving it a rustic feel, but pretty rich in black- ceeds in captivating the palate. Earns extra points for berries, currants and cedar, making it an easy Cab to the fine acid-tannin structure. —S.H. Rodney Strong 2009 Estate Cabernet drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 87 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). You get abv: 14.7% Price: $20 plenty of ripe berry, cherry and currant fruit in this ex- Storybook Mountain 2007 SEPS Estate pressive young Cabernet. Smoky oak adds sweetness, Duarte Georgetown 2007 Reserve Cab- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This making for a delicious wine to drink now and over the 85 ernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). This ’07 is ambitious wine is enormously ripe and intense in black- next several years. —S.H. still huge and closed, with meaty tentacled tannins and berry fruit, with oak bringing a delicious coat of sweet abv: 14% Price: $25 a little more rest time needed. Small amounts of Pe- toast. There’s a minerality that must come from the tit Verdot, Carmènere and Cabernet Franc are in the earth, and the tannins are lush and supportive. It’s a no- RustRidge 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- blend. —V.B. ble wine, but feels disappointingly soft. —S.H. 87 gnon (Chiles Valley). This Napa producer abv: 14.5% Price: $39 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 based in the Chiles Valley has made a big style of Cab here, with plenty of tannins and black currant aromas Due Vigne 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Blue Rock 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- and flavor but the wine’s acidity tastes a touch out of 85 (Napa Valley). The texture on this Cabernet is 87 gnon (Alexander Valley). Too strong and ex- balance and could improve with time. Producer recom- rustic, with some tough tannins and green acidity, which tracted in blackberry and cherry fruit, almost like pure mends waiting to open until 2013. —V.B. lots of oak can’t quite cover, but only add sweet toast. jam, a sweet, candied impression that the caramel of abv: 15.1% Price: $50 It’s not a bad wine, but doesn’t seem capable of aging, new oak compounds. Feels like the winemaker tried too so drink up. —S.H. hard to make it flashy. Pretty good, but could use re- Calicaro 2008 Charles Towing Reverence abv: 14.5% Price: $38 straint and finesse. —S.H. 86 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- abv: 14.2% Price: $48 ley). Good, ripe blackberry and currant fruit in this dry Galante 2009 Double M (Carmel Valley). Cabernet, but the mouthfeel is a little off, for such an 85 This 50-50 blend of Malbec and Merlot is dry Castello di Amorosa 2007 Cabernet Sau- ambitious wine. The oak is too extracted, while the tan- and rustic. Despite some deeply concentrated blackber- 87 vignon (Napa Valley). Lots of oak and ripe nins are harsh. Feels overwrought, and not likely to im- ry and cassis flavors, it has a tough texture that seems fruit in this flashy Cabernet. Too much of both, in fact. prove much in the bottle. —S.H. unlikely to age out. —S.H. Explodes in blackberries, cassis, buttered toast and car- abv: 13.9% Price: $70 abv: 13.1% Price: $28 amel, wrapped into the ripest, sweetest tannins imagin- able. But beyond the obvious palate flattery, there’s not Don Patrick 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Kenwood 2007 Artist Series Cabernet a whole lot going on. —S.H. 86 (Knights Valley). Nicely dry in the finish, with 85 Sauvignon (Sonoma County). What a dis- abv: 14.6% Price: $49 a good bite of acidity and smooth tannins. The weakness appointment. This isn’t the Artist Series it used to be. is a certain thinness of blackberry fruit. For the price, It’s okay for an everyday Cab, but is simple, with wa- Duarte Georgetown 2008 Reserve Caber- though, you get some elegance. —S.H. tered-down blackberry and cherry jam flavors. Not age- 87 net Sauvignon (El Dorado). Concentrated abv: 13.8% Price: $15 able, so drink up. —S.H. and lush, livelier and better than the producer’s 2007 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 which still needs time to develop, this reserve-level Cab Herzog 2007 Special Reserve Cabernet with small amounts of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Carmènere 86 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A rustic, tannic Louis M. Martini 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- and Cabernet Franc is ready to drink now, its cassis and Cabernet, with sweet, juicy blackberry and spice flavors 85 gnon (Alexander Valley). A soft Caber- cranberry fruit showing well. —V.B. and an overlay of oak. Good for drinking now. —S.H. net, with sweet, herb-infused black cherry flavors and abv: 14.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.9% Price: $38 smooth tannins. An easy wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35 Freemark Abbey 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Joseph Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 gnon (Napa Valley). Shows plenty of Caber- 86 (Alexander Valley). Only in California’s Mossback 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon net character in the blackberry and black currant fla- warmer regions will you find the enormously ripe cher- 85 (Chalk Hill). With soft, easy tannins and bare- vors, enhanced with oak, and the firm tannins. A good ries and blackberries this Cabernet offers. It’s as sweet ly noticeable acidity, this easy little Cab lacks structural wine, maybe a little overpriced for what you get. Drink as jam. Likeable, even opulent, but would benefit from integrity. It’s very ripe and rich in cherries, blackber- now and over the next four years. —S.H. greater dryness and structure. —S.H. ries and anise, but the lightness lowers the point score. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 abv: 14.9% Price: $36 —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $25 Grey Wolf Cellars 2008 Booker Vineyard Kirkland Signature 2008 Meritage (Napa 87 Lineage (Paso Robles). This Bordeaux 86 Valley). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. Palmeri 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Cab- blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, is a abv: 14.4% Price: $11 85 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Too sweet little sweet in blackberries, cassis, plum jam, milk choc- for real balance, with candied, extracted cherry, rasp- olate and spicy sandalwood, but the sweetness is bal- Kirkland Signature 2009 Napa Cabernet berry and blackberry flavors that taste sugary. It’s an anced by acidity and rich tannins. Drink it now with 86 Sauvignon (Napa County). For full review example of the exaggerated, overripe California style. some nice grilled beef. —S.H. see page 8. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $34 abv: 14.3% Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $49

Jean Edwards 2008 Stagecoach Vine- Louis M. Martini 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Richard Partridge 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- 87 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). 86 gnon (Sonoma County). A sound, everyday 85 gnon (Napa Valley). Too extracted in fruit, Lots of delicious, complex blackberry, crême de cassis, Cabernet, dry and smoothly tannic, with pleasant berry, with a jammy sweetness, and somehow the wine is both mineral and cedar flavors in this dry, tannic wine. One herb and cedar flavors that finish a little sweet. —S.H. too acidic and soft at the same time. Feels manipulated, abv: 13.8% Price: $18 designed to appeal to flashy richness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

38 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Adler Fels 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon kind you drink in a paper cup at big parties. The host merlot 84 (Russian River Valley). This is a harsh Cab- serves it, and you drink with the food. —S.H. ernet. While it has sweetly ripe blackberry fruit, the abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Freemark Abbey 2009 Merlot (Napa Val- acidity is fierce, and the tannins have a sharp, green 90 ley). This is a lovely, elegant Merlot for drink- quality. Feels prickly and assaultive in the mouth, and Domino 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- ing now and over the next several years. It’s dry and not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. 81 fornia). Dry and rustic, with bizarre sweet rai- smooth, with dusty tannins framing cherry, red currant, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 sin and vegetable flavors. —S.H. herb, olive and cedar flavors. Give it a brief decanting to abv: 13.5% Price: $7 let the air mellow it. —S.H. Galante 2006 Blackjack Pasture Caber- abv: 14.4% Price: $30 84 net Sauvignon (Carmel Valley). Still hard F. J . Serra 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- in tannins at the age of five-plus years, and despite some 81 ifornia). Seriously overpriced. For half the Gainey 2008 Limited Selection Merlot polished blackberry flavors, there is also an overripe, price, you can get a better wine. It’s thin and reedy, with 87 (Santa Ynez Valley). A good, rich, savory pruny one. Unlikely to improve in the bottle. —S.H. acidic, unripe flavors. —S.H. Merlot, although it’s a little excessive in ripeness, offer- abv: 13.6% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ing sweet cherry jam and milk chocolate flavors. Tasty, but too expensive for what you get. —S.H. Masked Rider 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2010 abv: 14.1% Price: $38 84 (California). Here’s a sweetly fruity, simple 80 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A dis- Cabernet, ripe in blackberry and cherry pie filling, with likeable wine, soft, sweet, with candied flavors. —S.H. Martin Ranch 2008 J.D. Hurley Merlot hints of smoky oak. It’s a sound, country-style wine, and abv: 13.5% Price: $8 87 (Santa Clara Valley). This Merlot opens with pretty good for the price. —S.H. a big berry nose and is concentrated, lush and rich, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 bursting into vanilla cream midway through, ending cabernet franc with a strong note of toffee. Would pair well with any Small Wonders 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- number of midweek meals, from roast chicken to tacos. 84 gnon (Paso Robles). Pretty good Cabernet, Oakville Ranch 2007 Robert’s Blend —V.B. fine for easy, inexpensive drinking. It’s bone dry and 93 Cabernet Franc (Oakville). This may well abv: 14.2% Price: $20 modest in alcohol, with decent berry, cola and cedar fla- be the most expensive Cabernet Franc in California, vors. —S.H. although it is blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, Bogle 2009 Merlot (California). Another abv: 13% Price: $11 presumably to give a little more punch to a variety that 86 Best Buy Merlot from Bogle. The wine is just as can be one-dimensional on its own. The result is unde- you want a nice Merlot to be, rich and soft and flavorful Barton 2008 The Dance (Paso Robles). A niably fine and delicious. It’s very smooth in the mouth, in cherries, with a kiss of smoky oak. Best Buy. —S.H. 83 Bordeaux blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon with soft tannins, and wonderfully complex cherry and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 that’s almost as sweet as Port. The sugariness frames herb flavors that have a touch of sweet green pea. The blackberry and blueberry jam, cassis and dark chocolate alcohol is high, but the wine wears it well. —S.H. Motos Liberty 2009 Merlot (California). flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $92 86 Lots of ripe, flashy cherry, mocha, licorice, spice abv: 14.5% Price: $45 and oak flavors in this dry wine, which is marked by the Biltmore 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc softness a nice Merlot should have. A good companion Lulu B. 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- 90 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page with almost anything calling for a medium-bodied red. 83 fornia). Here’s a wine you can serve your guests 6. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. at a big party and not have to worry about price. It’s dry abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and fruity enough to work with anything calling for a ro- bust red wine. —S.H. Eponymous 2009 MacAllister Vineyard Robert Losey 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley). abv: 13% Price: $7 87 Cabernet Franc (Sonoma Valley). A lush, 86 A rich, thick, heavy Merlot, a little too soft and soft Cab Franc, if a little one-dimensional. Shows pleas- melted in structure, but so delicious, it’s easy to like. Redwood Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- ant cherry, herb and cedar flavors, wrapped into firm Shows flashy black cherry jam, chocolate, roasted al- 83 gnon (California). With fresh, jammy black- tannins, and the finish is totally dry. Drink now. —S.H. mond and caramel flavors, rather like a granola candy berry and cherry fruit, this Cab tastes like it’s right out abv: 13.7% Price: $46 bar. —S.H. of the fermenting tank. It’s bright in acidity and simple, abv: 14.8% Price: $26 but gets the job done. —S.H. Fallbrook 2008 33 Degrees North Gra- abv: 13% Price: $8 87 cie Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc (South Silverado 2007 Mt. George Vineyard Mer- Coast). A fine, herbaceous Cab Franc from the South 86 lot (Napa Valley). This is an o.k. Merlot, even Round Hill 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Coast, woody and chocolaty with complex fruit and pon- somewhat fashionable, but it is not a success for such 83 (California). Simple and sweet in cola, black- derable length. —V.B. a fine winery as Silverado. The ’07, like the ’06, is sim- berry and oak flavors. At this price, it’s suitable for big abv: 13.6% Price: $33 ple, with sour cherry, currant, cedar and spice flavors, parties. —S.H. wrapped into firm tannins. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Thomas Fogarty 2007 Cabernet Franc abv: 14.4% Price: $35 87 (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a pure Parkers Estate 2010 Old Vine Street Cab- sweetness at this heart of this wine, from the fruity es- Thomas Fogarty 2007 Merlot (Santa Cruz 82 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A sence of red cherries to the vanilla-scented toast. It’s 86 Mountains). A simple, fruity wine, sharp in small Cabernet, with a dry, pinched feeling, and flavors also pretty acidic, with firm, fleshy tannins. Overall, a acidity, with candied cherry and raspberry flavors, elab- of cherries that are compromised by unripe green mint. full-bodied red wine to drink now. —S.H. orated with sweet oak. Easy to drink with a great burger. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $32 —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.3% Price: $32

Surf Point 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon H & G 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). The 82 (California). A dry, thin, modest Cabernet, the 85 structure is elegant, with good acidity and tan- nins, and while this wine is a little lacking in fruit, it’s a

WineMag.com | 39 nice, dry, clean Merlot, easy to drink. Classic inexpen- tannic, fruity wine, with a spectrum of ripe berry and Fogdog 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). sive California red wine, suitable for any occasion you currant flavors. —S.H. 93 Distinctly Sonoma Coast in the forest berry want a full-bodied red. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $39 fruits and feral, earthy notes of anise, balsam and Dr. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Pepper cola. Fine and silky in the mouth, with mod- Masked Rider 2007 Petite Sirah (Califor- est alcohol and a burst of cool-climate acidity. A more Q 2009 Merlot (Sonoma County). A tight 87 nia). For full review see page 7. feminine style of Pinot, which is not to understate its 84 Merlot, dry and tart, with cherry, tobacco and abv: 13.5% Price: $13 power. Could easily develop over the next six years, but red currant flavors. A little coarse in texture, but the it’s pretty compelling now. —S.H. richness is just fine. —S.H. Ballentine 2009 Fig Tree Vineyard Petite abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.8% Price: $14 86 Sirah (Napa Valley). On its own, this Petite Sirah tastes soft and honey sweet, with pie-filling ber- Freestone 2009 Pastorale Vineyard Pinot Snapping Turtle 2010 Merlot (California). ries, cherries, spices and cocoa. But pair it with a great 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast). It will be fascinating 84 Lots of acidity gives this Merlot a bite. It’s bone cheeseburger, and it will rise to the occasion, matching to taste this wine in six, eight, ten years. Right now, it’s dry and pretty thin in fruit, with a modicum of cher- grilled sweetness with the same. —S.H. big, thick, dry and powerful. So sweet is the cherry fruit ry and herb flavors. A solid wine to serve at big parties abv: 15.1% Price: $24 and so silky is the texture that the wine could almost be where no one’s very fussy. —S.H. a young Grenache. Seems to have what it takes to age, abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Collier Falls 2007 Estate Petite Sirah (Dry so try after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 83 Creek Valley). Overtly sweet and harsh in the abv: 14.1% Price: $80 Castle Rock 2008 Merlot (Mendocino mouth, with extracted berry flavors. There’s a burning 82 County). Not the best showcase for Men- sensation that’s hard to explain, unless the official alco- W.H. Smith 2009 Hellenthal Vineyard Pi- docino fruit, this inexpensive, high-production Merlot hol level of only 14.8% is off the mark. —S.H. 93 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). A young, vigor- is tight and one-dimensional with not a lot of fruitiness abv: 14.8% Price: $36 ous Pinot that should reward some time in the cellar. and a slight bitterness on the finish. —V.B. Right now, it’s strong in acidity and fairly tannic despite abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Castle Rock 2009 Petite Sirah (Lake the light texture. The flavors are interesting and com- 82 County). Soft and gluey, with caramel candy plex, with not just ripe red cherries as well as all kinds Platform 9 2010 Merlot (California). This cherry and spice flavors, packed into Petite Sirah’s pow- of wild notes of herb tea, anise, grilled mushrooms, pine 82 overpriced Merlot is tough and coarse. It has erhouse tannins. —S.H. needles and persimmons. Drink this fascinating wine as sweet berry and licorice flavors, with a bitter finish. abv: NA Price: $12 it slowly changes over the next eight years. Cellar Se- —S.H. lection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 San Marcos Creek 2008 Estate Petite Sir- abv: NA Price: $48 81 ah (Paso Robles). This is a heavy, dull Petite Round Hill 2010 Merlot (California). A Sirah. It tastes like the raspberry filling from a candy bar W.H. Smith 2009 Marimar Estate Vineyard 82 rustic, simple wine, with ripe, sweet cherry and you buy at 7-Eleven. —S.H. 93 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A lovely bottle cola flavors. Feels rough and sharp in the mouth, but abv: 14% Price: $26 of Pinot Noir, dry and silky and considerably lighter in not bad for the price. —S.H. body than most. Despite the lightness of texture, the abv: 12.5% Price: $8 wine is powerful, with succulent raspberry, cherry, Dr. pinot noir Pepper cola, anise and white pepper flavors that linger Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2010 long in the finish. Should develop in the bottle for at 82 Merlot (California). Soft in texture and semi- W.H. Smith 2009 Bill and Joan’s Special least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. sweet, this simple Merlot has sugary cherry and black- 95 Selection Maritime Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: NA Price: $48 berry flavors. —S.H. Coast). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: NA Price: $60 W.H. Smith 2009 Maritime Pinot Noir (So- 93 noma Coast). Bring on the tuna, either tartare Surf Point 2010 Merlot (California). A rude Dutton-Goldfield 2009 Dutton Ranch Em- or lightly grilled. This is the perfect wine. It’s bone dry, 81 Merlot, dry and acidic, with berry flavors that 94 erald Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green light and silky in the mouth, and crisp in acidity, a lovely, taste fresh out of the fermenter. —S.H. Valley). An extraordinarily beautiful Pinot Noir, dry, elegant Pinot Noir with modest alcohol that feels just abv: 12.5% Price: $9 silky and just captivating. With profoundly ripe cher- fine. The flavors are of cherries, cola and pomegranates. ry berry and mulberry fruit, it shows earthy complexi- Beautiful now, and should develop bottle complexity ties, spices and flowers, and the oak overlay is just about over the next six years. —S.H. petite sirah perfect. A gorgeous wine that should age for six years. abv: NA Price: $54 —S.H. Retro 2007 Old Vine Petite Sirah (How- abv: 13.5% Price: $58 Calicaro 2009 Liberty Bridge Split Rock 92 ell Mountain). Another fine, lush and ageable 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Lots Petite Sirah from Retro. You can drink it now because Morgan 2009 Double L Vineyard Pinot of toasty new oak on this Pinot, which gives it a sweet it’s so sweet and accessible in cherry pie filling, roast- 94 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Another dra- roasted marshmallow aroma and taste. Mixed in are rich ed meat and smoky oak flavors. But with a firm tannin matically layered Pinot Noir from this fine producer and flavors of cherries, raspberries and cola, sprinkled with structure, it will gain all kinds of bottle complexities vineyard, in the Central Coast. A remarkably consistent cinnamon and pepper. An exotic, powerful wine. Too over the next eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. bottling over the years, and now the ’09 is perhaps the bold and in your face now, but should gain traction over abv: NA Price: $36 ripest and purest yet, showing deep flavors of berries, the next eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. licorice, sandalwood and tangy Indian spices. It’s a big, abv: 14.6% Price: $54 Imagery 2008 Petite Sirah (Sonoma powerful wine, yet never loses graceful subtlety and el- 87 County). Imagery has a good track record with egance. Should develop slowly over the next six years, Calicaro 2009 Poinsett Split Rock Vine- Petite Sirah, and this ’08 is right up there. Although it at least. —S.H. 92 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A huge can’t quite overcome a certain rusticity, it’s a dry, boldly abv: 13.8% Price: $50 Pinot Noir, superripe and exotic in raspberry and cher- ry jam, persimmon, cola, cinnamon, clove and sandal- wood flavors. Defines the Sonoma Coast, with a crisp

40 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 spine of acidity providing bright structure. Bold now, all Bernardus 2009 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot ries, raspberries and cola, with plenty of toasty oak. The fruit and oak, but has the balance to develop bottle nu- 90 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Enormous- richness is fortunately balanced with acidity and some ance through 2015, at the very least. Cellar Selection. ly ripe, as you’d expect from this famous vineyard. Ex- bracing tannins. Give it a few years in the cellar. Cellar —S.H. plodes in red cherries, licorice, cola, anise and smoky Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $48 sandalwood, so rich and deep and long in the finish. abv: 13.6% Price: $50 Plenty of racy acidity provides balance. You might want Freestone 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma to give this Pinot a few years in the cellar to calm down. Toad Hollow 2007 Toad’s Pride Pinot Noir 92 Coast). Enormously ripe in cherries, raspber- —S.H. 90 (Russian River Valley). For full review see ries, cranberries and dates, almost sweet, except that it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $80 page 7. Cellar Selection. totally dry, and the acidity is fresh and bright. A big, big abv: NA Price: $35 wine that dazzles for sheer power, although it’s not espe- Calera 2008 Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir cially subtle right now. That could change in the cellar. 90 (Mt. Harlan). Tough and gritty in youth, this ZD 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Earns ex- Give it a few years, and then a good decanting before Pinot is quite tannic, giving it a mouthfeel that resists 90 tra credit for the sheer audacity of ripe cherry, service. —S.H. immediate pleasure. However, it’s dry, silky and elegant, raspberry and vanilla cream flavors. Almost as sweet as abv: 13.5% Price: $55 with a rich core of cherries, minerals, cola, sweet Pro- a candy bar, but actually dry, and balanced with acid- vençal herbs and sandalwood. It’s a fine wine that needs ity and minerals. A fine Pinot Noir that should develop Freestone 2009 Quarter Moon Vineyard time in the cellar, perhaps as much as a decade. The bottle complexity over the next six years. —S.H. 92 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Lots of acidity score reflects its potential. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 in this young wine, maybe more than some wine lov- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 ers will be comfortable with. That gives the enormously Bouchaine 2008 Estate Vineyard Pinot ripe cherry and persimmon fruit a bite, and could help Calicaro 2009 Paris Mountain Lone Oak 89 Noir (Carneros). The vineyard is on the Napa this dry, silky wine to develop in the cellar. It’s of a piece 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- side of Carneros. The grapes got quite ripe, to judge with the 2007 and 2008. Try after 2015. Cellar Selec- lands). Big and rich, front-loaded with blackberry and from the flavors of black cherries, while 75% new oak tion. —S.H. cherry jam fruit. The tannins are considerable, giving adds distinct flavors of sweet, caramelized toast. The abv: 13.5% Price: $80 the wine a full-bodied mouthfeel, like Grenache. Deli- wine is pretty tannic, with fine acidity. Give it a few cious, but a bit ponderous now for a Pinot Noir. Give it hours in the before pouring. —S.H. La Fenêtre 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard a few years in the cellar to mellow. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- —S.H. ley). So tight in acidity, tannins and primary fruit, this abv: 14.8% Price: $48 Heart O’ The Mountain 2008 Estate Pinot light, silky Pinot Noir begs for some time in the cellar. 89 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Solidly in the By 2015, it should begin to mellow, revealing sweet, Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 271 Pinot winery’s style, a big, ripe, bold Pinot Noir, rich in fruit ripe raspberry and cherry fruit, with a brace of miner- 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review and oak, yet dry, with considerable tannins. Strong in als. Shows real finesse and concentration from this fine see page 8. Best Buy. raspberries and cherries, yet the structure maintains el- vineyard. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $14 egance. Fine now and over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $55 abv: 14.6% Price: $48 Heart O’ The Mountain 2008 Pommard La Fenêtre 2009 Le Bon Climat Vineyard 90 Clone Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Monticello 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Stash this Earns its stripes for the sheer power of raspberry and 89 (Oak Knoll). Here’s a big, bold Pinot of tre- young Pinot in the cellar for at least four years. Right cherry fruit that defines its California ripeness. Firm mendous fruity extract. Although It’s a bit heavy and now, it’s tight and austere, with zippy acidity and un- tannins and acidity fortunately provide balance, and the soft, it’s very delicious, offering waves of cherries, pome- integrated oak sweetness and tannins framing intensely wine finishes dry. An opulent, extravagent Pinot Noir granates and smoked meat, accented with sandalwood. ripe cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Needs time to that will provide lusty drinking over the next six years. Advances the cause of Pinot Noir grown in this south- come together, but could provide interesting drinking —S.H. ern Napa Valley region, which is almost in the Carne- after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $58 ros. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Heart O’ The Mountain 2008 Six Six- Calera 2008 Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 ty Seven Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- Waits-Mast 2009 Oppenlander Vineyard 91 (Mt. Harlan). Sweet and jammy in youth, with tains). Bold and ripe in cherry jam flavors. Oak brings 89 Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). The 2009 robust flavors of raspberry and cherry jam. The sweet- buttered toast to the mix. Delicious and savory, this Pi- vintage for Mendocino Pinot Noir is considered a stand- ness is balanced by crisp acidity and firm tannins, as not is solidly in the ripe California style of forward fruit out. This Waits-Mast Pinot shows a deftness with cool- well as a minerality that must come from the terroir. A and immediate flash. Drink now and through 2014. climate fruit, for this is definitely a bright, classic, more feminine wine, Calera’s ’08 Jensen should gain in the —S.H. restrained version of California Pinot. The wine has a bottle over the next eight years or so. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.2% Price: $52 delightful, deep red cherry note enveloping it and all —S.H. the earthy mushroom one comes to expect from Men- abv: 14.7% Price: $70 Heart O’ The Mountain 2008 Triple Seven docino. Very drinkable now with room to grow in the 90 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). A big bottle a few more years. —V.B. Calera 2008 Reed Vineyard Pinot Noir Pinot Noir, darkly colored and full-bodied in the mouth. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 91 (Mt. Harlan). Calls to mind the 2006, which The depth of fruit is impressive, packing a solid core of also was a ripe, fruity wine. If anythng, the ’08 is even black cherries and plums. Might gain some bottle notes Bernardus 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot sweeter. The alcohol is half a percent higher. It’s succu- over the next 4–6 years. —S.H. 88 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Give this lent in raspberry and cherry jam, making it likeable now. abv: 14.6% Price: $52 young Pinot a few years to come around. Right now, it’s But such are the tannins and acids that the wine should all sharp acids and primary fruit cherries and raspber- easily gain in the cellar over the next six years. —S.H. La Follette 2009 Dunah Vineyard Pinot ries, while the oak sticks out all over the place. Needs abv: 14.9% Price: $50 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). Potent in fla- time to settle. Better after 2014. —S.H. vor, showing the ripeness of the grapes and the extract- abv: 14.4% Price: $75 edness of the winemaking. Fills the mouth with cher-

WineMag.com | 41 Black Kite 2009 Redwood’s Edge Pinot Husch 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- drier and the score would rise. As things are, it’s just too 88 Noir (Anderson Valley). Defines a certain 87 ley). There’s a lovely dryness and elegance of sweet and one-dimensional in jammy raspberries and California style in the intensely ripe, jammy raspberry mouthfeel to this Pinot Noir that make it instantly ap- cherries, while oak brings buttered toast and roasted co- and cherry fruit flavors, whose sweetness is accented by pealing. True, it could be richer. But for the price and conut flavors that are candy sweet. Good as it is, it palls caramelized oak. Delicious, and the acidity and tannins case availability, it’s a pretty polished wine. Shows tart, after a while. —S.H. are just fine, but it’s a little obvious, and wants greater bitter cherry, cranberry and cola flavors, with a deft abv: 14.8% Price: $48 subtlety. —S.H. touch of smoky oak. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $52 abv: 13.9% Price: $23 Paraiso Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir (San- 86 ta Lucia Highlands). This somewhat sweet Dutton Estate 2009 Karmen Dut- Pali 2009 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir Pinot tastes like a liquid version of raspberry jam, figs, 88 ton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 87 (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s an enormous blast of vanilla cookies and buttered toast. Fine acidity gives it ley). Comes down on the heavy, full-bodied side for Pi- raspberry and cherry pie filling in this Pinot Noir, as well needed balance. Drink now. —S.H. not Noir, with plenty of cherry, pomegranate and per- as an elaborate coating of sweet, caramelized oak. Be- abv: 14.2% Price: $25 simmon flavors. Sweetened with toasty oak, there’s also low that, you won’t find much else. It’s all razzle dazzle, a spicy sandalwood richness that brings an exotic note. but few world Pinot Noirs can achieve this level of flash. Peters Family 2008 Sonoma Stage Vine- Doesn’t seem likely to improve, so drink up. —S.H. —S.H. 86 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Soft and abv: 14.6% Price: $40 abv: 14.7% Price: $48 simple, with basic Pinot flavors of cola, cherries and oak. With a sweet finish, it fails to excite at this price. —S.H. Masked Rider 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- Trout Street 2009 La Encantada Vineyard abv: 14.4% Price: $49 88 nia). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. 87 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). So much rasp- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 berry and cherry flavor in this Pinot Noir, it’s easy to Rossi Wallace 2010 Pinot Noir (Napa Val- drink a couple glasses with a nice steak or chop. Bright 86 ley). Lots of ripe red cherry, pomegranate, cola McIntyre Vineyards 2009 Estate Block 3 acidity provides a welcome lift. Maybe not an ager, and and sandalwood flavors in this dry Pinot Noir. It lacks 88 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Acid- a little too forward, but sure is delicious. —S.H. vibrant acidity to give life to the richness. Drink now. ity marks this dry wine, a low-cropped block selection abv: 14.4% Price: $49 —S.H. from the estate vineyard. The fruit is remarkably con- abv: 14.6% Price: $28 centrated, showing flashy, intense cherries and plenty Arrow Creek 2010 Coastal Series Pinot of smoky oak. But that acidity definitely kicks. Hard to 86 Noir (California). A sound introductory Pi- Tout Street 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Pi- tell if the wine is ageable, but it does need a rich, fatty not Noir, showing proper silkiness and spicy flavors of 86 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made for drink- steak. —S.H. cherries and cola. Easy to drink, with no obvious faults. ing right away, this is a sweetly ripe Pinot Noir, packed abv: 14.1% Price: $46 —S.H. with flashy raspberry and cherry flavors. Oak adds sweet abv: 12.5% Price: $18 caramel, making it taste like a granola candy bar. —S.H. Calicaro 2009 The Dark Corner Doctors abv: 14.3% Price: $48 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- Bartz-Allen 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma lands). So sweetly extracted now in raspberries and 86 Coast). A pretty good Pinot Noir, although It’s ZD 2009 Norman C. deLeuze Founder’s cherries, it’s almost like a cola drink. Wants a squirt of a little expensive for what you get. Nicely dry and crisp 86 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). Feels carbonation to bring acidity and liveliness. Defines the in acidity, with cherry and persimmon flavors, but needs heavy and jammy in the mouth, with raspberry and extracted style of Pinot Noir, all fruit. Impressive, but greater depth and complexity. —S.H. cherry flavors that are generously oaked. That barrel ag- lacking structural interest. Could conceivably come abv: 14.2% Price: $42 ing regime brings butterscotch and sweet vanilla to the around in the cellar. —S.H. mix. The result is a rather soft, sweet Pinot Noir whose abv: 14.7% Price: $48 Belle Glos 2010 Meiomi Pinot Noir (Mon- richness outweighs its complexity. —S.H. 86 terey-Santa Barbara-Sonoma). A pretty abv: NA Price: $65 Clos du Val 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir good Pinot Noir, elegantly silky as it should be, with fla- 87 (Carneros). Too tannic and heavy for a Pinot. vors of tart cherries, cola, red licorice and sandalwood. Double Bond 2008 Wolff Vineyard Pinot Although the raspberry, cherry and oak flavors are rich, It’s a bit too soft and sweet, but easy to drink. —S.H. 85 Noir (Edna Valley). A rugged, somewhat rus- it lacks the subtlety you want in a fine California Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $22 tic wine, with a scoury mouthfeel. It’s a little on the Noir. Earns an extra point for depth of fruit, and a cer- sweet side. Tastes like a raspberry, roasted almond and tain intellectual value. —S.H. Castello di Amorosa 2009 King Ridge nougat candy bar. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 86 Vineyard Pinot Nero (Sonoma Coast). A abv: 13.8% Price: $48 soft, somewhat one-dimensional wine that doesn’t pos- Cult 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- sess the brightness or interest you expect in a Sonoma Kirkland Signature 2010 Pinot Noir (Rus- 87 ley). Marked by extreme ripeness, this Pinot is Coast Pinot Noir. That’s despite some very rich cherry, 85 sian River Valley). For full review see page 8. a blast of red cherry pie filling, red licorice and cola fla- licorice, cola and sandalwood flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $13 vors, with a smoky note of bacon fat. Delicious, but a bit abv: 14.3% Price: $59 soft and simple in texture. —S.H. Peter Paul Wines 2009 Mill Station Road abv: 14.4% Price: $48 McIntyre Vineyards 2009 Estate Pinot 85 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A bit 86 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). There’s a stemmy, also a little underripe, with some minty, veg- Heart O’ The Mountain 2008 Eight Two tough, gritty acidity and tannic toughness that makes etal notes marring otherwise fine raspberries and cher- 87 Eight Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). this wine hard and chewy in the mouth. On the plus ries. Drink now. —S.H. This Pinot is all about upfront raspberries, cherries, cola side are very ripe flavors of cherries, pomegranates and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and sweet red plums, accented with smoky, caramelized cola. Call it rustic, but it’s not going anywhere, so drink oak. It’s not one to age, but offers plenty of rich, Califor- up. —S.H. Anaba 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot nia-style ripeness now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 84 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Too sweet, with sug- abv: 14.6% Price: $52 ary vanilla, raspberry jam, honey-butter toast and cin- Pali 2009 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot 86 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Make this wine a little

42 | wine enthusiast | november 2011 namon flavors. Certainly is ripe, but needs to be drier. 24 Knots 2009 Pinot Noir (California). attractive $16. Syrah is blended with 8% Cabernet Sau- —S.H. 82 Gritty and harsh, with tart acidity framing fla- vignon. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 vors of sour cherry candy and cola. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $16 abv: 13.4% Price: $17 Bouchaine 2008 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Dierberg 2008 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). 84 Dry and harsh, with sour cherry candy flavors. Redwood Creek 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- 86 A nice Syrah, rich in berries, licorice, Dr. Pep- The acidity is disruptive, the tannins hard and not likely 82 nia). Tastes like a melted raspberry, cinnamon per cola and spices, with soft, luxurious tannins. It’s a to age out. Let it breathe to soften and mellow. —S.H. and vanilla dessert, a soft, sweet Pinot Noir that shows little uncomplicated and sweet, but easy to drink now. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 the variety’s silky texture. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 14.2% Price: $34 Forest Glen 2009 Pinot Noir (California). 84 A skinny little Pinot Noir, bone dry and tart in Motos Liberty 2010 Pinot Noir (Califor- Francis Coppola 2009 Wallace Creek acids, with watered-down flavors of cherries, cola and 81 nia). Simple and sweet, like a cherry cola drink 86 Vineyards Reserve Syrah (Dry Creek Val- green mint. Actually, it’s pretty good considering the that’s gone flat. —S.H. ley). Made in a soft, sweet style, this simple Syrah is price. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 very rich in black cherry jam, dark chocolate, toast and abv: 12.8% Price: $11 exotic baking spice flavors, wrapped into smooth, vel- The Thirty First State 2010 Pinot Noir vety tannins. It’s a crowd pleaser. —S.H. Greenwood Ridge 2009 Pinot Noir (Men- 81 (California). A simple Pinot Noir, not quite abv: 14.5% Price: $33 84 docino Ridge). Greenwood suggests cellaring ripe and overly soft, with cherry and asparagus flavors. this wine for four years but in the meantime it’s more —S.H. Klinker Brick Winery 2009 Farrah Syrah baked bread than earthy, red fruit and pretty high in abv: 13% Price: $10 86 Syrah (Lodi). A big-boy Syrah named for the acidity. —V.B. producer’s daughter, this is a jammy, juicy, brown sugar abv: 14.1% Price: $30 and maple syrup kind of Syrah, with a great peppery syrah nose and a lot of bacon fat flavors intermingled among McFadden Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir (Pot- the soft tannins. —V.B. 84 ter Valley). McFadden’s ’07 Pinot may not be Château Potelle 2009 VGS Syrah (Mount abv: 14.9% Price: $20 aging gracefully in this case. It’s got an earthy edge to it 92 Veeder). A big, vital Syrah, massively packed still but not much fruit, the organically grown grapes a with intense blackberry fruit, in the way of Mount Veed- Collier Falls 2009 Syrah du Soleil Syrah touch acidic and bitter. —V.B. er reds. It’s distinctly Syrah-esque, with pepper and ba- 85 (Sonoma County). A fairly standard Syrah, abv: 14.5% Price: $19 con flavors, and the winemaker has added a deft layer of softly sweet and direct in berry, mocha, spice and oak smoky oak. Very good, but young and sweetly immature. flavors. Tons of fruit, but lacks complexity for the price. Peter Paul Wines 2009 Pinot Noir (Rus- Needs time. Give it another three years, but if you pop —S.H. 84 sian River Valley). Dark and soft, this is a the cork now, decant for several hours. Cellar Selec- abv: 13.2% Price: $36 simple Pinot Noir. It has candied flavors of raspber- tion. —S.H. ries, cherries and chocolate mint, and is a little overripe. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Double Bond 2008 Larner Vineyard Syr- Drink now. —S.H. 84 ah (Santa Ynez Valley). Very high in alcohol, abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Falcone 2009 Syrah (Paso Robles). If nearly 16%, giving this Syrah a hot chile pepper burn. It 92 this Syrah was from Napa, or even Sonoma, it also tastes frankly sweet, like cherry and raspberry jam. SeaGlass 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara would cost a lot more. It’s really good, with fine tannins These are considerable faults. —S.H. 84 County). This is a simple, country-style Pinot framing delicious, complex flavors of ripe berries, cured abv: 15.9% Price: $45 Noir, dry and modest in berry fruit. It’s not bad, just not meats, peppery spices and smoky sandalwood. Sophisti- particularly interesting. But for the price, it will get you cated and elegant, it’s worth a special search. Only 476 Francis Coppola 2009 Green Label Di- through. —S.H. cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 84 amond Collection Syrah-Shiraz Syrah abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 (California). You can charitably call this wine rustic. It’s soft and candy-sweet in blackberries and cherries. Simple Math Cellars 2010 Windsor Oaks Jawbone 2008 Reserve Selection Syrah Pretty standard stuff, but it’s all right for a big party. 84 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 87 (Dry Creek Valley). A lusty wine, soft and —S.H. ley). A disappointment from this well-known vineyard exceedingly fruity, as befits its warm origins. Flashy in abv: 13.5% Price: $16 that’s been source to many great Pinots. This wine is so raspberry and cherry jam, roasted coconut, sweet mo- sharp, it’s almost like raspberry vinaigrette. —S.H. cha and cinnamon flavors, with a savory touch of bacon. Grey Wolf Cellars 2010 Predator Syrah abv: 14.6% Price: $38 —S.H. 84 (Paso Robles). Frankly sweet, with cherry, abv: 14.8% Price: $50 berry, cola, smoked meat and oak flavors, this country- Wrath 2009 Pommard 4/777 Pinot Noir style Syrah contains a little , Petite Sirah and 84 (Monterey). Decently good, with ripe cherry, Martella 2009 Camel Hill Vineyard Syrah Grenache. —S.H. berry and cola flavors, but this is really a tough Pinot 87 (Santa Cruz Mountains). A strong Syrah, in- abv: 14.7% Price: $28 Noir to like, especially at this price. It’s high in acidity tense and concentrated in the way of ripe, high-alcohol and jammy, giving it a sweet and sour taste. —S.H. wines. Shows potent flavors of berries, cherries, bacon Palmeri 2006 Van Ness Vineyard Syr- abv: 14.6% Price: $35 and spices, wrapped into smoky oak. Tasty and easy to 84 ah (Alexander Valley). Too soft and sugary drink now. —S.H. sweet, with raspberry and cherry jelly flavors, sprinkled Anaba 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 15.5% Price: $55 with cinnamon, pepper and cocoa. Gets tiresome after 83 A pretty simple, dull Pinot Noir, with cherry, a sip or two. —S.H. berry, cola and spice flavors. You can do a lot better at Matchbook 2008 Syrah (Dunnigan Hills). abv: NA Price: $32 this price. —S.H. 87 A broody and juicy warm-climate Syrah that’s abv: 14.3% Price: $32 nicely in balance, clean and tastes like fruit, all at a very Silver 2008 Trentotto File White Hawk 84 Vineyard Syrah-Viognier (Santa Barbara County). Way too acidic, with a sharp cut slicing right

WineMag.com | 43 through the middle of the cherry and sandalwood fla- grilled Canadian bacon. Lush, smooth and tannic, it’s gives a burn that accentuates the pepper spice and vors. Everything else is pretty good, except for that tart- a beautiful wine to drink now with beef stew or even a makes it fierce. Yet it’s fully dry and rich in blackberry, ness. —S.H. coq au vin-style dish. —S.H. blueberry, anise and tobacco flavors. Defines the Cali- abv: 13.4% Price: $28 abv: 14.7% Price: $45 fornia superripe Zinfandel style. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $22 Anaba 2009 Las Madres Vineyard Syrah Storybook Mountain 2008 Mayacamas 83 (Carneros). Lots of sweet, ripe cherries in this 91 Range Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Mountain- Bruliam 2009 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Bu Syrah, which also shows classic, cool-climate aromas of grown fruit gives this wine an exceptional intensity and 87 Zinfandel (Rockpile). A big, brawny, power- black pepper. A disagreeable note of crushed cigarette purity of flavor. Tastes like the essence of blackberries, house of a Zin, packed with wild berry, currant, beef butts is a big minus. —S.H. sprinkled with black pepper, anise and cocoa. As rich jerky, smoky cedar and pepper spice flavors. Entirely abv: 14.3% Price: $32 as it is, the finish is perfectly dry. There’s a rusticity to dry, but with a sweet heat from alcohol, it’s a fine wine the texture, but that’s why Zinfandel is Zinfandel. Drink to down with almost anything off the grill. —S.H. over the next six years, especially with barbecue or fine abv: 14.7% Price: $35 roasted meats and root vegetables. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $34 Calicaro 2009 Zig Zag Alley Zinfandel 87 (Dry Creek Valley). A good Zinfandel, rich Hovey 2009 Rolleri Cuvee Tempranillo Greenwood Ridge 2009 Scherrer Vine- and spicy in wild berry, tobacco, anise and sweet ce- 90 (Calaveras County). Full of violet, flowery 90 yard Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Zinfan- dar flavors that are just a little sweet in alcohol. Easy to aromas that descend into oak, blackberry and cigar, this del is not usually a wine you have to age, but this one drink with barbecue, or try Vietnamese or Mexican beef is a muscular Tempranillo with a feminine side, big yet does need four years or so in the cellar. It’s bone dry dishes. —S.H. smooth with subtle blueberry sweetness. Grown from and quite good, with classic wild berry, tobacco, grilled abv: 14.8% Price: $36 the Rolleri Vineyard above Angels Camp and given 18 meat and spice flavors, but it’s pretty tannic. Has the months of barrel age, this would make a spectacular depth and balance to blossom by, say, 2015. Cellar Se- Castello di Amorosa 2009 Zingaro Zin- pairing with wintertime roasts and stews. —V.B. lection. —S.H. 87 fandel (Russian River Valley). Tastes hot abv: 14.8% Price: $22 abv: NA Price: $27 and peppery, in part because of high alcohol. But it’s super fruity, dry and tannic, the kind of Zin that’s just Duarte Georgetown 2008 Georgetown Hendry 2009 Hendry Blocks 7 & 22 Zin- begging for a barbecued slab of steak or chicken, liber- 89 Divide Mountain Estate Tempranillo (El 90 fandel (Napa Valley). Classic Zinfandel, rich ally slathered with sauce. —S.H. Dorado). A well-made Tempranillo that’s lush and rich and robust and high in alcohol, with enormously ripe abv: 14.9% Price: $38 yet balanced, its tannins well structured and its blueber- blackberry, cherry and raspberry fruit flavors, sprinkled ry fruit intensity inviting. Lay it down awhile or give it a with Zin’s pepper, cinnamon and clove spices. This full- Gary Farrell 2009 Sonoma County Selec- chance to breathe. —V.B. bodied wine raises Zinfandel’s rustic nature to Napa el- 87 tion Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This is a abv: 14.7% Price: $25 egance. —S.H. soft and easy-to-drink Zinfandel. A blend of Dry Creek abv: 15.3% Price: $35 and Russian River fruit, it has ripe wild berry, mocha, Maisonry 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard licorice and pepper flavors, with a touch of sweet oak. 88 Tempranillo (Napa Valley). There’s 5% Cab- Quivira 2009 Quest Zinfandel (Dry Creek —S.H. ernet Franc in this Temp, which makes all the differ- 90 Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 ence, bringing greater body and tannins to a variety abv: 14.8% Price: $38 that, on its own, can be simple. The cherry, cola and Peju 2008 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). A very licorice flavors are accented with a touch of sandalwood, Quivira 2009 Flight Zinfandel (Dry Creek 87 nice Zinfandel, rich and spicy, with black cur- making for a lovely, medium-bodied red wine to drink 89 Valley). The 6% of Viognier may be why this rant, dark chocolate, raisin, tobacco, pepper and cedar now. —S.H. Zinfandel has such a zippy streak of acidity. Whatever flavors. It’s a bit overripe, especially in the finish. Drink abv: 14.7% Price: $42 the reason, there’s a brightness that cuts through the up. —S.H. cherry and raspberry fruit, almost like it contains a abv: 16.3% Price: $30 squirt of lemon and lime soda. Drink now. —S.H. zinfandel/primitivo abv: 14.8% Price: $38 Sobon Estate 2008 ReZerve Zinfandel 87 (Amador County). A gigantic, tannic monster Storybook Mountain 2008 Estate Re- Gary Farrell 2009 Bradford Mountain of a Zin with full fruit flavors of cranberry, ripe plum 94 serve Zinfandel (Napa Valley). For full re- 88 Vineyards Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). and plenty of oak. Well-made for certain, with cigar and view see page 4. Very ripe and spicy, with a sprinkle of dusty Christmas licorice. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $55 spices tanging up the wild cherry, raspberry, licorice and abv: 15.1% Price: $24 Dr. Pepper cola flavors. Zin doesn’t get much richer, but Elyse 2008 Black-Sears Vineyard Zinfan- this one could be a little firmer in structure. Drink now. Sobon Estate 2008 Rocky Top Vineyard 92 del (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5. —S.H. 87 Zinfandel (Amador County). True to Ama- abv: 14.4% Price: $37 abv: 14.4% Price: $45 dor’s brawnier style, this Zin is still tightly tannic but shows ripe black cherry and blackberry flavor with Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s Quivira 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- plenty of dark chocolate and cocoa powder. Made from 92 Cut Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). For full 88 ley). Lots of ripe Zinny character in this wine, old-vine, sustainably grown grapes, it’s priced fairly and review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. which is a blend of vineyards from throughout the val- should open with age. Pair with a thick piece of meat. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 ley. It’s enormously rich in raspberry and cherry jam —V.B. fruit, spiced with cinnamon, cloves and anise, and fin- abv: 14.9% Price: $17 Storybook Mountain 2008 Eastern Expo- ished with sweet, smoky sandalwood. —S.H. 91 sures Zinfandel (Napa Valley). A first rate abv: 14.8% Price: $20 XYZin 2009 100 Year Old Vines Zinfan- Zinfandel, as rich as they come, brimming with intense 87 del (Dry Creek Valley). A big, full-bodied, mountain fruit flavors of blackberries, black currants Ballentine 2009 Old Vines Zinfandel rich Zinfandel, bone dry and spicy, with impressive fla- and cola, with Zin’s black pepper and a savory taste of 87 (Napa Valley). Hot in high alcohol, which vors of wild berries, herbs, balsam and smoke. Needs

44 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 equally big fare to stand up to, like barbecue slathered If this sweeter style of Zin is your thing, it’s quite a nice first sip tastes like a Starbucks raspberry-mocha concoc- in sauce. —S.H. wine. —S.H. tion, and it’s very hard to return for a second. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 abv: 13.8% Price: $14 abv: 14.7% Price: $32

RustRidge 2007 Estate Zinfandel (Chil- Saini 2009 Apple Block Zinfandel (Dry Del Carlo Winery 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel 86 es Valley). A brawny, cherry flavored Zin- 85 Creek Valley). A good Zinfandel, nice to drink 80 (Dry Creek Valley). A nasty wine, dirty, hot fandel, big shouldered all around with dense, leathery with sweet, salty meat foods, like sausage-based tomato and harsh. Almost undrinkable, except for some decent spicy aromas and flavors, with hints of licorice and bit- sauce with pasta. It shows tannin-infused, sugary flavors berry flavors. —S.H. tersweet chocolate. Estate bottled and grown in Napa’s of cherries, blackberries and buttered cinnamon toast. abv: 15.5% Price: $32 Chiles Valley. —V.B. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $35 abv: 15% Price: $36 other red wines Saini 2009 Olive Block Zinfandel (Dry Saini 2008 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). 86 Creek Valley). A heavy, sweet Zin, with very 85 A good Zinfandel, dry and spicy, if a little rustic. Blackbird Vineyards 2008 Illustration ripe blackberry jam, licorice and cola flavors, liberally Feels gritty and chewy in the mouth, with wild berry, 93 (Oak Knoll). Lush. smooth and complex, this spiced with pepper and cloves. Big and high in alcohol, red licorice, prune and cola flavors that finish a bit hot Merlot-based blend seems capable of a little develop- in the way of rustic Dry Creek Valley Zins. —S.H. in alcohol. —S.H. ment in the cellar. It’s pretty tannic, although the cherry abv: 15% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 fruit is sweet and bright. Try holding for a year or two, but if you pop the cork now, give the wine a few hours Shenandoah Vineyards 2010 Zinfandel Simaine Cellars 2008 Larry Venturi Vine- of decanting. —S.H. 86 (Amador County). An attractive price for a 85 yard Zinfandel (Mendocino). There’s no abv: 14.5% Price: $90 straightforward, Amador County Zin, full-bodied and hiding the 24 months in French oak this Zin spent after tasting of ripe blackberries and cocoa. Best Buy. —V.B. growing up in an organic and dry-farmed vineyard. Me- Blackbird Vineyards 2008 Paramour abv: 14.5% Price: $10 dium to heavyweight it’s all about ripe strawberry and 91 (Napa Valley). Exuberantly rich in cherries blackberry, sweet to the point of being in a pie, rounded and blackberries, with a huge, sweet and smoky coat- Verde Sole 2009 Zinfandel (Sierra Foot- out by graham cracker and a fine fruit liqueur. —V.B. ing of oak. The tannins are thick and dusty and flashy. 86 hills). There are brambly, wild cherry aromas abv: 15% Price: $25 A young, dramatically structured wine, it could easily and flavors in this wine, as well as a little cocoa, but this develop in the bottle over the next 6–8 years. Cellar Sierra Foothills Zin is still fairly tight and hard to tell Bota Box 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Cali- Selection. —S.H. which direction it will go from here. A majority (80%) 84 fornia). At the equivalent of about five bucks abv: 14.5% Price: $90 Zin, there’s also 20% Syrah that was cofermented with for a regular bottle, this is a great buy. It’s soft and easy, Viognier in the blend. —V.B. with sweet raspberry, cherry, vanilla, toast and spice fla- Blue Rock 2009 Baby Blue (Alexander abv: 14.3% Price: $18 vors. Best Buy. —S.H. 91 Valley). A lovely wine, drinkable now and over abv: 14% Price: $20/3 L the next few years. Made from Merlot, the two Caber- Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2010 nets and a dash of Syrah, it’s rich and lush in blackberry, 86 Zinfandel (California). A solid Zinfandel, dry Masked Rider 2008 Zinfandel (Califor- blueberry, cured meat, black pepper and cedar flavors, and stylish. Not a blockbuster, just a well-crafted wine 84 nia). This soft, sweet Zinfandel is easy to drink wrapped into smooth, spicy tannins. —S.H. that offers nice berry, cherry, tobacco and spice flavors. now with simple foods, like meatballs and spaghetti, abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Best Buy. —S.H. burgers and beef tacos. It’s ripe and forward in cherries, abv: 13.5% Price: $8 cocoa and licorice. —S.H. Falcone NV Annaté III (Paso Robles). This abv: 13.5% Price: $13 91 ambitious blend is comprised of Syrah, Petite XYZin 2009 50 Year Old Vines Zinfandel Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. it’s quite delicious, a 86 (Russian River Valley). Robust and deeply Rock Wall 2009 St. Peter’s Church Vine- worthy followup to its predecessors, although it’s un- flavored in wild berry, tobacco, smoked meat and spice 84 yard Zinfandel (Sonoma County). High al- clear why the winemaker chooses to combine vintages. flavors. A somewhat rustic wine that needs big, rich cohol makes this wine taste and feel hot. It’s also as sug- Bursts with bright, savory cherry and blackberry fruit, roasts and barbecue. —S.H. ary sweet as jam. Incredibly fruity in blackberries, cher- brightened and boosted by fine acidity. A lovely, full- abv: 14.3% Price: $30 ries and raspberries, sprinkled with baking spices, it can bodied red wine to drink now. —S.H. best be described as rustic. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $65 Francis Coppola 2009 Red Label Dia- abv: 15.5% Price: $40 85 mond Collection Zinfandel (California). Blackbird Vineyards 2008 Contrarian Smooth, lusty and sweet in fruit, this Zin brims with Small Wonders 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro- 89 (Oak Knoll). Lots of ripe blackberry, cherry, jammy flavors of cherries, blackberries and currants. 83 bles). This is a soft, simple Zinfandel. It’s sweet currant, licorice and cedar flavors in this dry, tannic The cinnamon and pepper spices suggest drinking with in sugared raspberry tea and red currant flavors, sprin- wine. It’s a little rude in texture, with a jagged mouth- spicy meat and poultry dishes. —S.H. kled with nutmeg and cinnamon. —S.H. feel that could age out, but you never know. Give it a abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $9 good long decant before serving. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $90 Klinker Brick Winery 2009 Old Ghost Rock Wall 2009 Zinfandel (Sonoma 85 Zinfandel (Lodi). At 15.9% alcohol, aged 14 82 County). Thin and uninteresting, with vague Fallbrook 2008 33 Degrees North Gra- months in American oak, this Zin is for those who like a cherry, berry and spice flavors that taste a little sweet. 88 cie Hill Vineyard, Dalla Collina (South mouthful of hardcore meaty, gamy, oaky intensity. From Gets the basic Zinfandel job done. —S.H. Coast). This wine opens with a full Zin-like nose, all old vines grown near the Mokelumne River. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $25 pepper and plum with traces of blackberry and though abv: 15.9% Price: $37 it’s a touch oaky the wine’s easy to drink with soft, ripe Collier Falls 2008 Estate Primitivo (Dry tannins. A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Merlot. Lapis Luna 2007 Zinfandel (Lodi). As 81 Creek Valley). So soft and sugary sweet. The —V.B. 85 sweet as raspberry tea sweetened with a couple abv: 14.1% Price: $33 spoons of white sugar. Alcohol provides a pleasant burn.

WineMag.com | 45 Imagery 2008 (Sonoma County). its bright, tight red cherry fruit makes its way through. Grey Wolf Cellars 2009 Soulmate (Paso 88 You never quite know what you’re getting with —V.B. 84 Robles). Tastes sugary sweet in blackberry Barbera. Imagery’s is absolutely dry and quite firm in abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and cherry jam flavors, sprinkled with cocoa and cinna- dusty tannins, with a complex array of berry, herb, to- mon and wrapped into sturdy tannins. This rustic wine bacco, cured meat and spice flavors. It’s pretty much as Bouchaine 2009 Bacchus Collection Es- is based on the old California variety, Carignan. —S.H. sophisticated as California Barbera gets. —S.H. 85 tate Vineyard Pinot Meunier (Carneros). abv: 14.6% Price: $34 abv: NA Price: $35 A tough wine to like. It’s bone dry, hard in tannins and tartly acidic, and not very fruity, with flavors just bare- Jeriko 2010 Jeriko Vineyards Grenache Rock Wall 2010 Super Alamedan (Cali- ly suggesting sour cherries. On the plus side is elegant 84 Noir (Mendocino). It is entirely possible that 88 fornia). A juicy, jammy blend of 50% Sangio- construction. —S.H. this wine was simply released way too soon and thus vese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Montepulciano abv: 14.1% Price: $40 tasted too early, but as is tannic and thin, a showcase and 8% Zinfandel sourced primarily from Contra Costa for warm-weather Grenache without the variety’s classic County that’s packed with blue and blackberry fruit, to- Clif Family 2009 The Climber Limited fruitiness and balance. —V.B. bacco and plum. Clean and bright with a chewy texture. 85 (California). A blend that’s certainly rich and abv: 13.5% Price: $33 —V.B. ripe in fruit, but doesn’t offer much else. Almost sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $20 in cherries, blueberries and blackberries, with caramel- Masked Rider 2009 Gunsmoke (Califor- ized oak and a tangy, meaty note of bacon. —S.H. 84 nia). A sound, everyday red wine, rough and Incognito 2009 Lodi. For full review see abv: 14.5% Price: $28 ready, with jammy flavors of cherries, berries and spicy 87 page 7. tobacco. Bring on the chili and burgers. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Intelligent Design 2009 Cuvée (Santa abv: 13.5% Price: $13 85 Barbara County). Made from Grenache, Syr- Simaine Cellars 2009 Larry Venturi Vine- ah and Petite Sirah, this is a soft, honey-sweet wine. It Anaba 2009 Annadel Estate Vineyard 87 yard Sangiovese (Mendocino). A dense, has jammy raspberry, cherry, date and baking spice fla- 82 Mourvèdre (Sonoma Valley). A simple, candied, cherry-infused Sangiovese that’s thick in tex- vors. —S.H. sweet wine, with sugary cherry, chocolate and anise fla- ture, syrup-like, very ripe with intriguing clove and abv: 14.1% Price: $38 vors. There’s a curious, disagreeable charred taste, like a pomegranate flavors. Made from organically grown, cigarette butt. —S.H. dry-farmed grapes. The alcohol is high. —V.B. Matchbook 2007 Giguiere Family Tinto abv: 13.8% Price: $32 abv: 15.8% Price: $25 85 Rey (California). This blend of five varieties, based on Tempranillo and Syrah, is a nice wine for when Anaba 2009 Sonoma Valley. A simple, Sobon Estate 2009 Rezerve Tannat you’re serving lots of guests, and you’re not sure who 82 country wine, soft and rather dull. It has berry, 87 (Lodi). A powerful Tannat from an Amador likes what. It’s a little generic and sweet, but pretty good herb and spice flavors, and is dry. —S.H. County-based producer who usually toils in Zinfan- in berry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $24 del, this wine makes a bold statement of licorice and abv: 13.9% Price: $17 meaty game and is plenty rustic and savage, very oaky Château Potelle 2007 Explorer The Ille- and bursting with big tannins. If you like blackberry Oakville Ranch 2009 Field Blend 82 gitimate VGS (Napa Valley). A tough, gritty pie alongside dark toffee and caramel, you’ll like this. 85 (Oakville). The blend is mainly Zinfandel, with wine, with overripe, pruny flavors. It’s quite dry and tan- —V.B. a splash of Petite Sirah. The flavors are of ripe black- nic, and will not age. Basically a Bordeaux blend with abv: 15.2% Price: $24 berries, cherries, licorice and spices, and taste overtly Zinfandel and Syrah. —S.H. sweet. That is a function of high alcohol. There may also abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Storybook Mountain 2007 Antaeus (Napa be some residual sugar. —S.H. 87 Valley). Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- abv: 15.7% Price: $32 Intelligent Design 2007 Cuvée (Central lot and Petit Verdot constitute the blend. The flavors are 80 Coast). There’s something medicinal about intensely concentrated and ripe in blackberries and cur- Silver 2008 Saviezza (Santa Barbara this Rhône blend. It smells and tastes like plastic wrap, rants, with a sweet coating of smoky oak. One off note 85 County). A tough, acidic wine that feels dis- and is very hard to like. But it’s not undrinkable. —S.H. is heat from alcohol, but richly sauced beef dishes will agreeably sharp in the mouth. The flavors suggest cher- abv: 13.8% Price: $38 handle it. —S.H. ries and licorice. It’s mainly Sangiovese, with Cabernet abv: 14.6% Price: $40 Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $30 New York Duarte Georgetown 2007 Georgetown 86 Divide Petit Verdot (El Dorado). This Petit Anaba 2009 Coriol (Sonoma Valley). A riesling Verdot grown on the hillsides of El Dorado County in 84 Rhône blend, based on Mourvèdre and Syrah, California Gold Country is all dark berry and strawberry that’s sweet and direct in jammy berry and spice flavors. Macari 2010 Riesling (Finger Lakes). jam, still tight and grippy with room to develop added It’s also pretty sweet in toasted oak. Drink now. —S.H. 89 Only their second vintage of Finger Lakes Ries- complexity over time. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $28 ling, Long Island’s Macari Vineyards makes quite a abv: 15.1% Price: $25 splash with this beautifully honeyed yet dry and fruitful Greenwood Ridge 2009 Home Run Red wine. Richly textured with notes of yellow freesia and Grandmaster 2009 Paso Robles. A sound 84 (Mendocino). Greenwood’s Merlot-Zinfandel preserved peach, it finishes elegantly on a subtly astrin- 86 red wine, dry and full-bodied, with pleasant blend is a nod to vintner-in-chief Allan Green’s Drag- gent black tea note. —A.I. berry, herb, currant and smoked meat flavors that finish ons baseball team and would be so fun to recommend abv: 12.9% Price: $26 rich and sweet in ripe fruit. The winery doesn’t reveal to baseball lovers the world over if only it tasted better. what varieties are in the blend. —S.H. There’s some nice cherry notes buried in there some- Belhurst 2010 Dry Riesling (Seneca abv: 13.9% Price: $14 where, but otherwise the wine is overly tannic and its 88 Lake). Notes of sweet quince and pommelo aromatics seemingly benched. —V.B. add a soft, blossomy character to this dry yet richly tex- Rosa d’Oro 2009 Roumiguiere Sangio- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 tured Riesling. Quite creamy on the palate, the finish is 86 vese (Clear Lake). This Lake County San- giovese tastes slightly green and acidified at first before

46 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 long, ending with a spray of crushed white pepper over a mouthwatering acidity, it finishes on a puckery lemon- Lucas Vineyards 2010 Dry Rosé (Fin- tart grapefruit pith. —A.I. ade note. —A.I. 85 ger Lakes). While decidedly sweet on the abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 11% Price: $19 nose with a scent reminiscent of candied apples, Lu- cas’ rosé is surprisingly dry on the palate. Full bodied Glenora 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2010 Dry with a densely extracted black cherry juice note, it’s a 88 Lakes). Glenora’s Dry Riesling is intensely 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes). While harmoni- fairly substantial rosé with a nip of astringency on the fruity with loads of juicy white peach and melon flavors, ously dry on the palate, there’s a fascinating interplay finish. —A.I. yet impeccably dry and crisp on the palate. Pure and of sweet, candied orange peels and tea against darker abv: 13% Price: $10 pristine with a soft minerality that lingers from start to tones of smoke and struck flint on this unusual Fin- finish. —A.I. ger Lakes Riesling. Finishes quite brisk on a tart, raw Waters Crest 2010 Rosé (North Fork of abv: 11% Price: $18 quince note. —A.I. 84 Long Island). Clean and fresh on the nose abv: 11.4% Price: $15 and palate with hints of fresh gooseberry, apple and red Lakewood 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger plum, Waters Crest’s rosé could use a boost of concen- 88 Lakes). Dark and smoky with notes of struck Peconic Bay Winery 2009 Riesling (North tration on the midpalate, but it’s a simple, easygoing flint and crushed minerals, this wonderfully complex 85 Fork of Long Island). Scents of smoke and rosé for casual entertaining. Finishes tart, with a brisk, Riesling is unctuous on the palate with dried peach and aged honey entice on the nose of this bone-dry Riesling sour cherry note. —A.I. mango flavors that shine. Quite dry yet lusciously tex- from Peconic Bay. Lean in profile with a sharp, steely abv: 12% Price: $24 tured with hints of lanolin and mineral oil. —A.I. minerality, it finishes pleasantly on a tart, sour lemon abv: 12.4% Price: $13 candy note. —A.I. Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2009 Pinot abv: 11% Price: $24 83 Noir Blanc (Finger Lakes). Ebullient with Lamoreaux Landing 2010 Dry Riesling ripe cherry fruit, this intensely aromatic rosé is geared 88 (Finger Lakes). Almost lacy in its delicacy, The Grapes of Roth 2009 Riesling (Long towards the white Zin drinker who’s looking for a step There’s a crisp, underripe stone fruit and lime skin tone 85 Island). Flecks of flint and stone add a sleek up. While soft and a tad confectionery with a sweet, that reverberates through this refreshing, dry Riesling. minerality to flavors of underripe peach and apricot on candied cherry palate, there’s a crisp acidity throughout Notes of crushed stone, jasmine blossoms and a bright, Roman Roth’s Long Island Riesling. It’s a tad thin on that keeps it from becoming too cloying. —A.I. Meyer lemon acidity linger through a long finish. —A.I. the palate, but brisk lemon-lime acidity and flavors of abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 12.4% Price: $13 sour plum and lemon pith on the finish are tasty. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $22 Duck Walk 2010 Rosé (The Hamptons, Atwater 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger 83 Long Island). Hints of spice and Morello 87 Lakes). While certainly present, apple and Jamesport 2009 Riesling (North Fork of cherries entice on the nose of this pleasantly dry rosé stone fruit take a back seat to layers of flint and smoke 83 Long Island). While gorgeously fragrant with made from Merlot grapes. The palate is clean with de- on this uniquely savory, dry Riesling. Slightly viscous on loads of jasmine blossoms and candied orange peels on cent red fruit flavors, but there’s a hollowness overall, the palate with a rich, minerally slick, there’s a hint of the nose, Jamesport’s Riesling feels a bit light in body and a hint of tomato water on the finish that detracts. sea salt on the finish making this wine the perfect ac- and concentration. Subtly flavored with tangerine peels —A.I. companiment to oysters on the half shell. —A.I. and honey, it finishes with a pleasant black tea astrin- abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 11.7% Price: $16 gency. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $30 Knapp 2008 White Cabernet Franc (Fin- Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Dry Riesling 83 ger Lakes). Scents of cherry vanilla and cream 87 (Finger Lakes). While delicate on the nose waft luxuriously from this surprisingly full-bodied, semi- with scents of orange blossoms and fresh apples, there’s rosés dry White Cab Franc. The palate is candied and sweet a density on the palate of this dry Riesling that adds with red, ripe fruit, and a hint of sweet tomato water on structure and style. Brisk with lemon-line acidity, its Belhurst 2010 Dry Rosé (New York). Soft the finish. —A.I. clean finish ends with a zesty lemon pith note. —A.I. 87 and juicy with abundant white peach and berry abv: 11% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $15 flavors, Belhurst’s rosé is on the sweeter side of dry, but clean and focused on the palate. Refreshing yet substan- McGregor 2010 Rosé d’Cabernet Franc Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Homestead tial in body, it’s perfect as an apéritif or an accompani- 83 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Scents of sweet red 87 Reserve Riesling (Finger Lakes). So light ment to chicken or seafood. —A.I. fruit and smoke linger on this fairly dry rosé made from and crisp on the palate, this dainty dry Riesling is won- abv: 12% Price: $19/500 ml Cabernet Franc grapes. Despite the residual sugar, it’s derfully refreshing. Perfumed on the nose and palate quite puckery on entry with a tart, sour cherry palate. with notes of jasmine tea and white florals, it’s balanced Comtesse Thérèse 2010 Rosé (North Hints of bramble and foliage add dimension. —A.I. by a brisk lime acidity and a soft nectarine sweetness 87 Fork of Long Island). Crisp and clean like a abv: 11.3% Price: $15 that lingers on the finish. —A.I. watermelon agua fresca, this dry yet juicy rosé is full abv: 12% Price: $18 of ripe strawberry and cherry flavors. Bright acidity and a subtle trace of tannins make it a wonderfully food- Cabernet Franc Knapp 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). friendly pick anytime of the year. —A.I. 86 Delicate on entry with a soft, honeydew sweet- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Macari 2008 Cabernet Franc (North Fork ness, this dry Riesling builds in intensity on the midpal- 88 of Long Island). Macari’s supple, vanilla- ate with accumulating layers of white florals, lime juice Brooklyn 2010 Cabernet Franc scented Cab Franc is upfront and approachable in its and stone fruit flavors. Brisk with a zesty, clean acidity. 85 Rosé (Finger Lakes). There’s a dark, foresty sour cherry fruitfulness, yet boasts some complexity —A.I. note that adds dimension to the dark red plums and ber- with layers of ripe, brambly wood, dust and dark floral abv: 11% Price: $15 ries on this dry, medium-bodied rosé. While fleshy on notes. Finishes clean with lively acidity and a coating of the palate with a deeply concentrated fruit profile, it’s grippy, yet fine-grained tannins. —A.I. Martha Clara 2009 Riesling (North Fork refreshing with a clean, zippy acidity. —A.I. abv: 13.7% Price: $35 86 of Long Island). Martha Clara’s Riesling is abv: 12.5% Price: $16 dry in style yet soft on the palate with sweet tones of Belhurst 2009 Cabernet Franc (New honeyed apples and white peach. Fresh and juicy with 87 York). Rich, ripe blackberry preserves, vanilla

WineMag.com | 47 and toasted coconut flavors make this full bodied Cab cherry flavors accented with ripe, brambly wood notes sis, this deeply penetrating Pinot Noir gets a lift on the Franc feel deliciously warm and generous in style. A are pleasant, but coarse tannins combined with a slight- palate with cool tones of pine, menthol and pencil lead. sharp whiff of graphite and lean acidity on the midpal- ly craggy acidity make this Long Island Cab Franc less Lively acidity and soft, feathery tannins linger on the ate add structure and balance on the finish. —A.I. than harmonious on the palate. —A.I. finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20

Clovis Point 2007 Cabernet Franc (North Hosmer Winery 2009 Pinot Noir (Cayu- 87 Fork of Long Island). Foresty pine and wet Merlot 85 ga Lake). Savory notes of soy sauce and yeast earth notes linger on the nose of Clovis Point’s Cab extract add richness and umami to the sweet, cooked Franc, adding a touch of rusticity to pure, pristine cran- The Grapes of Roth 2005 Merlot (Long Is- plum and cherry flavors on this Finger Lakes Pinot. A berry flavors on the palate. Soft, furry tannins and a 90 land). Big and brooding with richly concentrat- bit rustic with hints of smoked meat and leather, it’s an warm, spicy note lead to a fairly long finish. —A.I. ed black plums and velvety, mouthfilling tannins, Ro- ideal accompaniment to winter stews and braises. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 man Roth’s namesake Merlot is boldly structured, but abv: 13.2% Price: $15 beautifully nuanced as well, with sprays of violet per- Knapp 2009 Cabernet Franc (Finger fume and just a whiff of wet, earthy forest and dried Inspire Moore 2009 LUST Pinot Noir (Fin- 87 Lakes). Crushed grains of paradise and dried herb notes. Drink now with a good decant, or hold for 84 ger Lakes). Striking acidity adds freshness to tarragon add a spicy dimension to softer, sweeter notes another 2–3 years. —A.I. more rustic characteristics of cooked red fruit, caramel- of graham cracker and sweet red fruit on the palate of abv: 13.5% Price: $50 ized sugar and hay on this medium-bodied Pinot. Bram- Knapp’s Cabernet Franc. Brisk and clean with marked bly on the palate with hints of mushroom and foliage, it acidity, it finishes on a brambly, fall foliage note. —A.I. Jamesport 2005 Bloc E Merlot (North finishes clean with just a trace of tannins. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15 87 Fork of Long Island). While soft on the nose abv: 12% Price: $26 with a generous dose of cooked black fruit, Jamesport’s Hosmer Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc Bloc E is surprisingly crisp and lean on the palate. Pris- Rock Stream 2009 Pinot Noir (Seneca 86 (Cayuga Lake). Dark on the nose and palate tine red fruit shines amidst layers of mocha, spice and 84 Lake). Crisp red plums and sour cherries add with swathes of smoke, espresso and briney black olive, forest floor, finishing on a grippy, darkly toasted wood a tart fruit character to this sheer Finger Lakes Pinot Hosmer’s Cabernet Franc is nicely concentrated with a note. —A.I. Noir. Brisk on the palate with a good dose of bramble in lean, black fruit profile. Dry and medium-bodied with abv: 13.5% Price: $25 the midpalate, it finishes clean on a minty, herbaceous bright acidity and a soft, violet-scented finish. —A.I. note. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 T’Jara 2007 Merlot (North Fork of Long abv: 11% Price: $17 87 Island). Scents of wine-soaked prunes and Ar- Sherwood House Vineyards 2007 Cab- magnac are tempting on this Merlot blend. Soft tannins 86 ernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island). and a crisp acidity frame a palate full of concentrated virginia Amidst pungent layers of smoke and toast, there’s a core black cherry fruit flecked with tobacco and dried herbs. of clean, red cherry and plum flavors accented by black —A.I. cabernet franc coffee and milk chocolate notes. Lean, lively acidity and abv: 12.5% Price: $24 well-integrated tannins add structure. —A.I. Annefield Vineyards 2009 Cabernet abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Castello di Borghese 2006 Merlot (North 88 Franc (Virginia). This Virginia Cab Franc 85 Fork of Long Island). Sweet vanilla mingles starts soft and ripe with loads of juicy black currant and Castello di Borghese 2007 Cabernet with ripe cherries and plums on the nose and palate of berry flavors flecked with sweet, warm baking spices 85 Franc (North Fork of Long Island). While this supple, soft Long Island Merlot. Bright acidity and and cedar notes. A zesty kick of acidity on the midpal- soft on entry with slightly pulpy, sweet plum flavors, a hint of green, leafy herbs add freshness on the palate. ate and a flash of fresh, green herbs on the finish add this Cab Franc gains intensity on the midpalate as spicy Finishes on a slightly grippy, tannic note. —A.I. elegance and balance. —A.I. bramble notes and soft tannins accumulate. Approach- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.3% Price: $29 able in style, it’s a pleasant everyday red with just a hint of leafy green on the finish. —A.I. Clovis Point 2006 Vintner’s Select Merlot Barrel Oak 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc abv: 12.5% Price: $25 84 (North Fork of Long Island). A bold dose of 88 (Virginia). Violets, smoke and fall foliage per- Cabernet Franc adds layers of dried herbs and a slightly fume this deeply concentrated Virginia Cab Franc. It’s Imagine Moore 2007 WISDOM Cabernet dusty wood note to this Long Island Merlot. There’s a full bodied with sultry, black cherry flavors and there’s a 85 Franc (Finger Lakes). Fruity and forward hint of green that trails from start to finish, but plenty noticeable build in complexity on the midpalate amidst on the nose and palate with loads of ripe black cherries of bright red fruit balanced with refreshingly high acid- layers of crushed black pepper, charred wood and dark and raspberry fruit, Imagine Moore’s Cabernet Franc ity. —A.I. floral notes that linger to the finish. —A.I. is nicely concentrated, but veers towards grapey on the abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.2% Price: $32 midpalate. Finishes clean with a softly bitter, black cof- fee note. —A.I. Keswick Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Franc abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Pinot Noir 87 (Monticello). Charred wood is undeniably abundant, yet surprisingly integrated on the nose and Lucas Vineyards 2009 Limited Reserve Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2007 Pinot palate of this Monticello Cab Franc amidst layers of 84 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). While 87 Noir (Finger Lakes). Densely fruited and full spicy mocha chocolate and ripe black fruit. Richly ex- sweet on the nose with hints of black cherry cola and va- in body, this Pinot offers a whopping mouthful of rich, tracted, yet elegant and clean in profile. —A.I. nilla, Lucas’ Limited Reserve is a bit lean and tart on the preserved plum flavor flecked with hints of burnt sugar abv: 13.7% Price: $23 palate with strident sour cherry fruit flavors accented by and dried herbs. Bright acidity and soft, smooth tannins ripe wood and foliage notes. —A.I. add finesse and elegance. —A.I. Lovingston 2010 Josie’s Knoll Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20 87 Franc (Monticello). Dense and bold in fruit and cinnamon spice, a whopper of a wine from Virginia. Pellegrini 2005 Cabernet Franc (North Ventosa 2008 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Full bodied with richly extracted blueberry, blackberry, 82 Fork of Long Island). Crisp red plum and 87 Richly fruited with sweet black cherries and cas- and dried fig flavors, it could use a few years to smooth

48 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 out all the grippy tannins. Enjoy now with a good de- Melipal 2007 Reserve Malbec (Mendo- Sottano 2009 Judas Malbec (Mendoza). canting. —A.I. 92 za). Ripe and totally right, with an attractive 91 Dark and deep smelling, with cola, berry and abv: 14.5% Price: $21 aromatic combination of dark spice, lusty berry and earth tones. Overall this is a cool and collected wine; blackness. Weighty but comfortable in the mouth, with it’s tight and structured, with firm tannins and attrac- Potomac Point 2009 Cabernet Franc (Vir- a delicious mix of berry, cassis and smooth oak flavors. tive flavors of dark berry, coffee, chocolate and fine 87 ginia). There’s something deep and soulful in Shows grip and structure on the finish; impressive and herbs. Toasty and still fairly oaky on the finish. Drink the way that ripe, red fruit melds with charred wood generous. Drink now through 2014. Gaucho Imports, now through 2014. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. and coconut macaroons on this supple yet robust Cab LLC. —M.S. abv: 15.3% Price: $90 Franc. Blended with a dose of Tannat and Merlot, the abv: 14% Price: $38 finish is fairly long, ending on an earthy, fall foliage note. Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Catena Alta —A.I. Sottano 2010 Judas Malbec (Mendoza). 90 Malbec (Mendoza). Concentrated black abv: 13.5% Price: $23 92 Dark, dense and minty on the bouquet, which is fruit aromas are subtle and don’t push real hard. It’s sexy and magnetic. Saturated and jammy but still main- jammy, deep and soft in the mouth, with sweet tannins Bogati 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). taining balance, and then a superconcentrated set of and even sweeter core berry flavors and oak. Finishes 85 While a tad pulpy and overripe on the nose, jammy blackberry flavors runs side by side with toasty smooth, with barrel influence and warmth. Very nice as there’s a purity to the dark red fruit on the palate of this oak and chocolate. Almost dessert-like on the finish. A always, but not as elevated and exact as prior vintages. Virginia Cab Franc that penetrates amidst notes of fresh very rich and modern style of Malbec. Well-Oiled Wine Winebow. —M.S. green leaves and herbs. Full bodied in style with just a Company. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 hint of green bramble on the finish. —A.I. abv: 15.3% Price: $90 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 Nieto Senetiner 2007 Cadus Single Vine- Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Adrianna 90 yard Malbec (Mendoza). Supersaturated, so Veramar 2010 Cabernet Franc (She- 91 Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Graphite and much so that it’s opaque, with blackberry, horseradish 84 NAdoah Valley). Crisp black plum and cher- lead pencil aromas mix with toasty berry scents. It’s and chocolate aromas. In the mouth, it’s on the cusp ry flavors are pleasant, if a tad underripe, on this full- solid and textured in the mouth, with creamy oak fla- of overextraction but manages to toe the line. Flavors bodied SheNAdoah Valley Cab Franc. Striking acidity vors alongside sawdust, milk chocolate and sweet berry of roasted berry, coconut and bitter chocolate are dark and an abundance of green, herbal notes give it a lean, notes. Deep and solid on the finish, but it trails behind and lead to a tannic finish. Drink now through 2014. slightly tart midpalate. —A.I. Adrianna wines from recent vintages. Winebow. —M.S. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $150 abv: 15% Price: $46

Three Fox 2010 Alouette Cabernet Franc Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Argentino Salentein 2009 Reserve Malbec (Mendo- 83 (Virginia). Notes of crushed black pepper and 91 Malbec (Mendoza). A sniff is rewarded with 90 za). Smells ripe and friendly, sort of like a jelly cedar against a backdrop of ripe red fruit are pleasant sandalwood, dry spice and thick, jammy berry aromas. doughnut. The palate is creamy, dense and balanced, on this full-bodied Cab Franc, but hints of green reeds It’s concentrated and well integrated on the palate, with with saturated berry and spice flavors. Very smooth and and resin distract. —A.I. ultraripe and sweet flavors of coconut, vanilla cream and integrated overall, and while it’s definitely dark and ripe abv: 12% Price: $27 berry fruit. Seems a touch flat and candied on the finish, it’s also popping with freshness. A complete wine at ev- with a final blast of sweetness. Winebow. —M.S. ery turn. Palm Bay International. —M.S. argentine reds abv: 14% Price: $135 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2010 J. Sottano 2009 Reserva de Familia Mal- malbec 91 Alberto Malbec (Patagonia). Complex and 90 bec (Mendoza). Bold but also steady across also ripe and blatantly pleasing. Balsamic aromas blend the bouquet, with coconut, chocolate, mint and wild François Lurton 2007 Chacayes Malbec with cassis, blackberry and citrus peel secents to form berry aromas. Forward and concentrated in the mouth, 93 (Mendoza). Exemplary and exotic in the same an exotic bouquet. It’s solid and firm in the mouth, with where ripe, generous black fruit flavors blend comfort- breath. Aromas of sandalwood, spiced blueberry com- lemony oak framing pure berry fruit. Tight, pure and ably with chocolate and spice notes. Finishes with drive, pote and fine leather make for an awesome bouquet. delivers the total package for Patagonian Malbec. Vias mouthfeel and sly clove and nutmeg flavors. Well-Oiled The palate is structured and huge like any top-end Imports. —M.S. Wine Company. —M.S. Argentine Malbec, but there’s purpose and elegance abv: 13% Price: $52 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 as well. Tastes of integrated oak, black fruits, subtle herbs and spice. Textured, deep and toasty on the fin- François Lurton 2007 Piedra Negra Mal- Altamira 2009 de los Andes Reserve Mal- ish. Drink now through 2015. Vintus LLC. Editors’ 91 bec (Mendoza). A powerful wine offering a 89 bec (Uco Valley). A touch reedy and rooty Choice. —M.S. rush of berry and plum aromas offset by sandalwood on the nose, but it settles to offer plum and berry aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $77 and blueberry. Tight as a vise in the mouth, but not mas and complexity. Feels saturated and jammy in the overly hard or tannic. Tastes of light herbs, chocolate mouth, with sweet, powerful berry flavors that show Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2009 Mal- and bright berry fruit, then turns toward complexity and candied sweetness and herbal accents. Sweet on the fin- 92 bec (Patagonia). For full review see page 5. tobacco on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Vintus ish as well, with caramel and toffee flavors. Superripe Cellar Selection. LLC. —M.S. and intense. 250 cases made; drink now through 2014. abv: 14% Price: $128 abv: 14% Price: $41 Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $35 Cayu 2007 Malbec (Uco Valley). Cola, Sottano 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendo- 92 mint, black fruit and chocolate combine to form 91 za). Chocolate and charcoal aromas form a Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Nicasia the full package in Malbec aromatics. Runs a mile deep dark and masculine greeting. There’s also coffee and an 89 Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). By Nicasia’s in the mouth, with concentration, tannic grip and ripe herbal note to the nose. Lush but not heavy, tannic or high previous standards, this wine from a substandard blackberry, dark plum and cassis flavors. Peppery and plodding, with powerful black fruit and herbal flavors. vintage is lacking. After an opening of sweet berry aro- chocolaty on the finish, with density and depth. Drink Runs deep and long on the finish; impressive. Well- mas, cured meat and spice, it’s very sweet and candied now through 2015. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. tasting, with milk chocolate and carob flavors along with abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $24 unabsorbed oak. Has an easy flow and soft tannins but

WineMag.com | 49 doesn’t have the precision, depth, crispness and totality bec. Linear in the mouth and acidic as it tastes exotic Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Reser- of the 2005, ’06 or ’07. Winebow. —M.S. due to herbal notes and eucalyptus. On the other hand 87 va Malbec (Mendoza). Woody on the nose, abv: 14% Price: $100 it’s full of blackberry and chocolaty richness. Crisp and with aromas of tree bark, pepper, cola and black fruit. nicely built on the finish. Hess Collection. —M.S. The palate is tight but under control, with spiced black François Lurton 2010 Reserva Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $25 plum and herbal berry flavors. Toasty and healthy on the 89 (Mendoza). Nice, full and smooth up front, finish, but also slightly bitter tasting, with zesty lasting with minty blackberry aromas that fold in bacon and François Lurton 2008 Piedra Negra Mal- acidity. Bedford International. —M.S. smoky oak. Pure and showing good body along with 88 bec (Mendoza). Lemon peel, wet clay, san- abv: 14.5% Price: $21 chocolaty notes and core flavors of berry and cola dalwood and nutmeg aromas are inviting. In the mouth, touched up by barrel spice. Turns richer and more it’s tight and tannic, but lively, with leather and roasted Filus 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Full and sweet as it breathes. Vintus LLC. —M.S. berry flavors. Finishes firm, tight and a bit clipped and 87 forward smelling, with generic, slightly hot ber- abv: 14.5% Price: $16 choppy. A reflection of 2008’s tough conditions. Vintus ry aromas. Feels good and tight, with a firm structure LLC. —M.S. and sweet, lush red berry flavors. Narrows down on the Nieto Senetiner 2010 Don Nicanor Mal- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 finish, focusing on ripeness and red fruit. Nothing sour 89 bec (Mendoza). Black as they come, with sat- or astringent here. Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. urated, jammy aromas of sweet berry fruit, blackberry Lagarde 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Big and abv: 14.5% Price: $NA syrup and toasty oak. The palate is lush and chewy, with 88 boisterous on the nose, with ripe plum, berry, black fruit, spice and herbal flavors. Toasty and black on smoke and meaty aromas. Mouthfilling and edgy feel- O. Fournier 2010 Urban Uco Malbec (Uco the finish. A big wine with plentiful oak as well as purity. ing, with bold berry and plum flavors that feature an 87 Valley). Full, solid and dishing pretty aromas Winebow. —M.S. herbal, peppery aftertaste. Earthy and herbal leaning on of blackberry, dark plum and mild spice. Sturdy in the abv: 14.8% Price: $18 the lengthy finish. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. mouth, with nice balance and above-average mouthfeel. abv: 13.8% Price: $18 Tastes ripe, lightly toasted and it finishes smooth if a bit Piattelli 2009 Grand Reserve Malbec (Lu- short. Textbook value Malbec; easy to like. Fine Estates 89 ján de Cuyo). Bulky and dark up front, with Trapiche 2010 Oak Cask Malbec (Men- From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. coconut, ripe berry and heat on the nose. Feels rich and 88 doza). Smoke, rubber and spice aromas mix abv: 14% Price: $11 resiny, with sticky tannins, extract galore and flavors of with ripe berry scents to form a solid and impressive coconut, wood grain, black licorice and sweet black- bouquet. It’s thick and saturated but balanced, with har- Ruta 22 2010 Malbec (Patagonia). Stout berry. Finishes hefty and grabby, with wayward oak that monious, easy to like flavors of blackberry and cassis. 87 and dense from the beginning, with blackberry needs to settle in. Vinocopia. —M.S. Long and solid on the finish; captures the essence of and violet aromas. Despite being a bold and dark Mal- abv: 14.4% Price: $25 value-priced Malbec. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. bec, this is fresh and composed, with sweet blackberry Best Buy. —M.S. and cassis flavors. Good on the finish, with candied fruit Pulenta Estate 2009 I Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 14% Price: $10 and caramel sweetness. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. 89 Sweet on the bouquet, with aromas of coffee, abv: 14.5% Price: $13 mocha, berry jam and cherry extract. Broad and saturat- Trivento 2008 Golden Reserve Malbec ed on the palate, with ripe blackberry, cassis and choco- 88 (Luján de Cuyo). Opens with a blast of milk Colores del Sol 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). laty flavors. Finishes smooth and easy, with ripe tannins. chocolate, raisin and sawdust before settling on black 86 Smells barbecued and saucy, with dry oak, res- Very nice but ordinary as full-bodied, extracted fruit and pepper. Shows good concentration and feel in in and smoked meat aromas. The palate is more acidic, go. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. front of prune, blackberry, licorice and burnt toast fla- while the flavors lean toward resiny and saucy, i.e. hick- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 vors. Has good pulse and vibrancy, but it’s a bit choppy ory and roasted berry. Oaky on the finish, with sawdust and oaky. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. and vanilla flavors. Treasury Wine Estates. —M.S. Tikal 2010 Natural Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 14.5% Price: $21 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 89 Like most Tikal wines, this is beefy and saturat- ed, with grapy, creamy, dark fruit aromas. Feels tight Zorzal 2010 Malbec (Tupungato). Floral Finca 8 2009 Malbec (Uco Valley). Jam- and lush in the mouth, with a meaty structure and dense 88 red fruit aromas settle on raspberry and plum, 86 my on the nose, with a citrusy element, green flavors of blackberry and herbs. Turns more herbal as it and there’s not much obvious oak or darkness. Round notes and something muddy. For a big Malbec with a unwinds before finishing toasty and thick. Vine Connec- and juicy on the palate, with spicy and sweet blackber- full price tag, it leaves me wondering: It’s chunky and tions. —M.S. ry along with clove. Integrated and solid, with a lightly tastes of red berry, citrus, pineapple and marshmallow. abv: NA Price: $20 toasted, chocolaty finish. Delectatio Wines. —M.S. Jumbled and sweet on the finish. Has enough good in abv: 14% Price: $15 it not to tank but it’s not in full harmony. Paul Hobbs Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2010 A Wines. —M.S. 88 Lisa Malbec (Patagonia). For full review Antucura 2010 Malbec (Vista Flores). abv: 13.8% Price: $28 see page 7. 87 Black in color, with minty aromas of blackened abv: 13.5% Price: $26 berry, leather and a slight horsey funk. Lush, soft and High Note 2010 Elevated Malbec (Men- jammy in the mouth, with roasted, sweet-tasting flavors 86 doza). Opens with aromas of mint and latex, Bodega Renacer 2010 Punto Final Mal- of stewed berry and raisin. Finishes soft and smooth, then the oak rises up, leaving vanilla and sawdust scents. 88 bec (Mendoza). Sweet and easygoing from with mild tannins and sweet café mocha flavors. South- Dry tannins and good size set up a minty-tasting flavor the start, with candied berry and floral aromas. The pal- ern Starz, Inc. —M.S. profile with resin and wild berry flavors. Finishes with ate sits at maximum ripeness, meaning it’s sweet and abv: 14.9% Price: $17 anise and licorice, and just enough acidity to keep it bal- soft but still holds its balance. Flavors of baked berry anced. Winebow. —M.S. and brown sugar are generous and smooth, while the Chakana 2010 Estate Selection Malbec abv: 13.7% Price: $15 finish is mellow and lush. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 (Mendoza). Foxy aromas are in the lead, abv: 14% Price: $12 backed by milk chocolate, a pinch of volatility and minty Ricardo Santos 2009 La Madras Vineyard berry. The feel is good, with candied, herbal flavors of 86 Malbec (Mendoza). Very red and slightly Colomé 2009 Estate Malbec (Calchaqui sweet berry and cassis. Sweet, sturdy and still a bit foxy grassy on the nose, with aromas of strawberry, mint leaf 88 Valley). Meaty, herbal and foresty on the nose, on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. and rhubarb. It’s a juicy screamer in the mouth, with in- all of which are typical aromas for this Salta-bred Mal- abv: 14% Price: $27 tensity, blazing acidity and wild raspberry and plum fla-

50 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 vors. Dry, tight and long on the finish. Global Vineyard vanilla, berry and milkshake. Finishes thick and sweet. transitioning to dry oak and roasted berry on the finish. Importers. —M.S. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.S. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 abv: 13.9% Price: $15

Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Malbec (Mendo- Coquena 2010 Malbec (Cafayate). Earth, Sottano 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- 86 za). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. 84 rubber and blunt black fruit aromas mix with 88 doza). Stocky, smoky and well composed on abv: 13.5% Price: $11 air freshener on the boisterous nose. It’s big and rug- the nose, with aromas of blackberry and hickory leading ged in the mouth, with over-the-top herbal fruit and the charge. Shows pulse and concentration on the pal- Felipe Rutini 2008 Apartado Gran Malbec burnt earth. Charred on the finish, with mild bitterness. ate as toasty oak, chocolate and chewiness blend nicely 85 (Mendoza). A big drop off from prior years, Funky in the Cafayate mold. The Artisan Collection. with black fruit and cassis flavors. Firm, deep and tannic probably due to the cold harvest conditions of 2008. —M.S. on the finish. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. Smells minty and lactic, with hard spice and distant fruit abv: 14.6% Price: $26 abv: 14.4% Price: $17 aromas. Feels closed, tannic and clipped, with narrow berry flavors and green notes. Toasty on the finish, but El Enemigo 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Antucura 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Vis- also clacky feeling. Good relative to other wines, but not 84 Called "The Enemy," this wine is highly con- 87 ta Flores). Black and jammy on the bouquet, at $70. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. fected and may come across overoaked. The nose is all with a spot of minty green and licorice. It’s softy and abv: 14% Price: $70 resin, toast, vanilla and shaved wood. In the mouth, it’s leans toward syrupy, with sweet, mildly baked flavors of creamy despite a streak of acidity, and the flavors are black fruits and chocolate. Feels creamy and a little low La Posta 2009 Cocina Malbec (Mendo- pure milk chocolate and vanilla. Very woody and sweet on acidity, so drink soon. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. 85 za). Floral and jammy smelling, with blueber- tasting; seems overly worked and not 100% natural. abv: 14.9% Price: $17 ry fruit and fennel aromas. Saturated and choppy feel- Winebow. —M.S. ing, with candied fruit flavors mixed with herbal notes. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Bodega NQN 2010 Malma Cabernet Sau- Just solid enough on the finish despite some holes in 86 vignon (Patagonia). Solid berry fruit aromas the fabric. Juicy and forward as a whole. Vine Connec- Espiritu de Argentina 2010 Malbec (Men- greet you, then turn a bit herbal and strained with air- tions. —M.S. 83 doza). A dilute wine with slightly weedy, odd ing. The palate has a healthy feel and reasonably good abv: 13.5% Price: $15 aromas of clove and muddled berry. Feels zesty and flavors of baked berry, herbs and mint. Blackberry notes tangy, almost sheering, with oaky flavors on top of lean, carry the finish along with herbs, caramel and choppy Lagarde 2010 Altas Cumbres Malbec generic red berry fruit. Woodspice is domiNAt on the tannins. Vias Imports. —M.S. 85 (Mendoza). Scratchy, slightly foxy berry and finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 cherry aromas lead to an active, juicy palate with berry, abv: 13% Price: $10 perky red plum and herbal flavors. Finishes fresh and François Lurton 2008 Gran Lurton Caber- tangy, with adequate kick. A presentable, normal type of Twigs 2008 Reserva Made with Organic 86 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Minty, floral aro- Malbec. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. 83 Grapes Malbec (Mendoza). Smells like a mas veer toward darker notes of cola, forest floor and abv: 13.7% Price: $11 Band-Aid with mint added in, and there’s a whiff of ge- leather. The palate is medium-full, with grabby tannins neric cherry as well. Tannic and grabby in the mouth, and roasted flavors of blackberry mixed with herbs and Maipe 2010 Andean Culture Malbec with a spiky feel and herbal, grassy flavors. Herbal and spice. A regular, oaky style of Cabernet with a raw, grab- 85 (Mendoza). Grassy red berry and plum aro- oaky on the finish, too, with a choppy feel. American by mouthfeel. Vintus LLC. —M.S. mas lead to a lean, somewhat high-acid palate with Wine Distributors. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30 herbal, oaky flavors of raspberry and plum that don’t abv: 13.5% Price: $15 last that long. Fresh and healthy feeling on the finish, Lagarde 2010 Altas Cumbres Cabernet but tasting more of oak and spice than fruit. Kysela Père Casarena 2009 Estate Bottled Malbec 86 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rubbery aromas vie et Fils. —M.S. 80 (Agrelo). Sweet and bland smelling, with a with solid berry fruit notes. The palate is basic and a abv: 13.5% Price: $13 jammy flatness. More spiky and lively on the palate, but touch edgy in feel, with red plum, currant and herbal it tastes dull, much like flat root beer and a bitter cup of flavors. Peppery and minty on the finish, but juicy and Nieto Senetiner 2010 Reserva Malbec coffee. Turns more bitter and less appealing on the fin- correct overall. Well-Oiled Wine Company. Best Buy. 85 (Mendoza). Dense and intense up front, with ish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. —M.S. superficial scratchy aromas that come across rough and abv: 15.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $11 scattered. The palate is resiny and oaky, with creamy tannins and oak-influenced flavors of sweet berry and Vintage Sun 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon vanilla. Finishes fiery and woody. Winebow. —M.S. Cabernet sauvignon 86 (Mendoza). For full review see page 9. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Buy. Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Catena Alta abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Salvatore Principe 2009 Artist’s Collec- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Opaque 85 tion Malbec (Cafayate). An improvement and thick, with all types of black fruit aromas blending Tilia 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo- over the 2008 version, this wine starts with rubbery with smoked meat scents and toasty darkness. The body 85 za). This wine regularly checks in as a good val- aromas of berry fruits and earth, and there’s a pinch of is fleshy and extracted, with raw tannins and a clacky ue Cabernet. It’s a bit rubbery and wild on the nose, sulphuric matchstick tossed in. Plump and full in the feel. Tastes woody and baked, with blackberry, licorice then tannic, grabby and full in the mouth. Flavors are mouth, with berry, herb and peppery flavors. Shows and sweet plum flavors. Turns herbal and minty on the lactic and woody, with roasted berry in front of a satu- some chocolaty richness on the finish. Prestige Wine finish. Winebow. —M.S. rated finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $52 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Dominio del Plata 2010 Crios Cabernet Twigs 2008 Reserva Made with Organic Sinfin 2009 Guarda Malbec (Mendoza). 88 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Big and woody to 85 Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). 85 Berry, cola, pepper and lemon peel aromas are start, with heavily toasted blackberry and herbal aro- Not overly oaky or forced, with red berry and cassis aro- taken down a notch by a note of spent coffee grinds. mas. The palate is thick, dense and tannic, but it doesn’t mas in the lead. Feels fresh but astringent, with sim- The palate is grabby, with creamy flavors of chocolate, punish. Tastes of cassis, blackberry and herbs before ple, generic flavors of raspberry and plum sweetened

WineMag.com | 51 up by vanilla. Lightweight on the finish; straightforward. ripe, with big red fruit flavors, candied sweetness, coco- and plum that are true to warm-climate Pinot. Finishes American Wine Distributors. —M.S. nut and chocolate. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. warm, a bit toasty and chocolaty. Weighty but achieves abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $30 balance with airing. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Tamarí 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- Lagarde 2009 Cabernet Franc (Mendo- 84 gnon (Mendoza). Sweet on the nose, but 87 za). Herbal aromas are balanced by plenty of Antucura 2010 Pinot Noir (Vista Flores). compromised by a persistent aromatic blast of nail pol- red fruit character. It’s tough and tannic in the mouth, 85 Rubbery, bold and earthy on the nose, then full ish. The palate is both creamy and tannic, with little so food is almost a must. Tastes of herbal berry and and sticky in the mouth, with sweet black fruit flavors. middle ground before forceful, choppy red fruit flavors stewed plums, and that’s followed by a roasted, herb- Tastes more like a Bordeaux red wine than textbook Pi- take over. Oaky and pasty tasting on the finish. Terlato al finish. Tough in feel but honest in flavor. Well-Oiled not Noir courtesy of heavy extraction, darkness and oak. Wines International. —M.S. Wine Company. —M.S. Tastes good but could use a lesson in elegance and re- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 straint. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $17 Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Cabernet Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2007 FIN Sin- 83 Sauvignon-Malbec (Uco Valley). Roasted 86 gle Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Patago- Zorzal 2009 Pinot Noir (Tupungato). Rates and heavy smelling, with bacon, buttery oak, sweaty nia). Baked fruit and coconut are the lead aromas, and 82 about the same as the winery’s reserve bottling notes and leather. In the mouth, it’s rubbery and astrin- there’s cassis and stewed berry scents as well. Gritty in due to grassy, green aromas of prickly raspberry. Big, gent, with hard tannins and baked, gritty flavors of black the mouth, with sweet, medicinal berry fruit flavors, co- chunky and sort of awkward on the palate, with herbal, fruits and burnt toast. A big, brawny wine that’s rough conut and chocolate. Stocky, ripe, tannic and medicinal rooty flavors. Burns on the finish with heat and spice. and choppy. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. on the finish. Gaucho Imports, LLC. —M.S. Delectatio Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.6% Price: $15

Pulenta Estate 2008 III Cabernet Sau- Pulenta Estate 2008 Gran Cabernet Franc 83 vignon (Mendoza). Green, tomatoey and 83 (Luján de Cuyo). Smells volatile and balsam- Other red wines strained as a whole. The nose initially smells like mari- ic, much like salad dressing. There’s no doubting this nara sauce and field greens. Mouthfeel is the saving wine is Cab Franc—it’s herbal and foresty, with a soft François Lurton 2008 Chacayes (Mendo- grace; it’s elegant and fresh. But back to the flavor pro- mouthfeel and herbal berry flavors topped off by orega- 92 za). Different than past Chacayes wines in that file, which delivers pizza, herbal overtones and tomato. no and basil. A rustic wine that’s probably too herbal for it’s more floral and exotic, and less about pure power. Cabernet does not seem to be this winery’s cup of tea. most palates. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. Aromas of blueberry, violets and Graham cracker pre- Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cede a well-built palate with wild berry and floral-in- abv: 14.5% Price: $26 fused flavors. Long, creamy and smooth on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Vintus LLC. —M.S. Rio Perdido 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon pinot noir abv: 15.5% Price: $80 83 (Mendoza). Smells exotic and unusual, and frankly not a whole lot like Cabernet Sauvignon. The Luca 2009 G Lot Pinot Noir (Tupungato). Finca Sophenia 2008 Synthesis The palate is high in acid, so there’s a citric sheer to the 89 This new Pinot from Laura Catena’s Luca label 91 Blend (Tupungato). Deep berry, cola, mint mouthfeel along with generic berry and spice flavors. is fresh, honest and peppy. The nose is lightweight, airy and leather aromas are classy and not overdone. Feels Tartness and tannic clamp show up on the finish. South- and a little earthy, while the palate is fresh and agile, lush and deep in the mouth, with blatant ripeness and ern Starz, Inc. —M.S. with good acidity and nice raspberry and pie cherry fla- toasty, oaky flavors of cola, coconut and blackberry. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 vors. Shows some oak, vanilla and spice on a dry, mild Finishes big but not that long or complex. Drink now finish. Definitely on the right path. Vine Connections. through 2013; Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon and Trapiche 2010 Zaphy Cabernet Sauvi- —M.S. Merlot. The Country Vintner. —M.S. 83 gnon (Mendoza). Brambly smelling, with to- abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $54 mato, green herb and rhubarb aromas. Nervy and tight in the mouth, with minty, spicy flavors that keep any Bodega NQN 2010 Malma Pinot Noir (Pa- Qaramy 2005 Alto (Mendoza). Calm, for- fruit character in the distance. Scratchy and tannic as 87 tagonia). Lean and angular on the nose, with 91 esty, complex and inviting on the bouquet, with well. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. crisp cherry and rhubarb aromas. Surprisingly elegant catchy berry and spice aromas. It’s round, balanced and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 in the mouth, with citrus notes, zesty raspberry, clean healthy in the mouth, with cola, dried herb, cassis and cherry and a lightness of being. Nice in an unassum- blackberry flavors. Chocolaty and oaky on the finish, ing way, with a touch of complexity. Vias Imports. Best but dry and proper. Almost identical to Qaramy’s basic cabernet franc Buy. —M.S. blend of Malbec, Cab and Syrah. Drink now. Matador- abv: 14% Price: $12 vino LLC. —M.S. Benegas 2006 Benegas Lynch Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $30 89 Franc (Mendoza). Earthy on first impression, Gouguenheim Winery 2010 Momentos then more vital and modern, with raspberry and plum 87 del Valle Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Shocking- Familia Cassone 2007 Obra Prima Gran aromas along with a dose of oak. Full and showing a ly good for $10 Argentine Pinot. It’s easy on the nose, 90 Reserva Familiar Maximus (Mendoza). powerful grip in the mouth, with cassis, black cherry with milk chocolate and raspberry aromas. The palate is Thick and sultry smelling, with aromas of menthol, and chocolate flavors. Sweet and very ripe late, with a juicy, tight and well balanced, with lightly roasted plum mint, tobacco, leather and ripe black fruits. Feels good touch of raisin as it fades away. Vias Imports. —M.S. fruit, spice and mild barrel notes. Dry, spicy and honest but oaky, with resiny tannins and baked berry and vanil- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 on the finish. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. la flavors. Dark, toasty and mellow on the finish. Shows abv: 13.5% Price: $10 ripeness, balance and lots of oak. Drink now through Ricominciare 2008 Altísimo Cabernet 2014. Bedford International. —M.S. 89 Franc (Uco Valley). Rubbery smelling at first, La Posta 2009 Glorieta Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.5% Price: $45 then earthy cherry and stewed fruit aromas emerge. 87 Noir (Mendoza). Opens with prickly, slight- Juicy and a bit pointed in terms of acidity, so it shocks ly stemmy aromas. The palate, however, is smooth and Qaramy 2005 Finca (Mendoza). Solid and the palate and pierces the cheeks. Tastes pulsing and round, with chunkiness and roasted flavors of raspberry 90 broad on the nose, with black cherry, berry and

52 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 controlled rubbery aromas. Fresh, juicy and healthy on cal fruit aromas. The palate follows suit with a tight torrontés the palate, with good drive and dark, toasty flavors of mouthfeel and tropical flavors of melon, baNAa and black fruits, spice and chocolate. Spicy, warm and a bit peach, all accented by a spot of vanilla. Mildly pithy and Piattelli 2010 Premium Torrontés (Cafay- complex on the finish. Malbec with Cab Sauvignon and toasty on the finish. Good Argentine Chardonnay for 83 ate). Pithy green fruit aromas are short but Syrah; drink now. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. the price. Opici Wines. —M.S. within normal parameters for the variety. Feels a bit abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 heavy, with a baNAa influence. Flavors of soft citrus and melon are middling, while the finish is weighty. Vino- Cheval des Andes 2007 Mendoza. A touch Bodega Elena de Mendoza 2010 Char- copia. —M.S. 89 saucy on the nose, with tomato and herbal aro- 85 donnay (Mendoza). Tropical and a bit briney abv: 14.3% Price: $16 mas infiltrating baked berry fruit scents. Feels fresh and on the nose. The palate is healthy in feel, with sweet clacky, with less extract and body than in the past but white fruit flavors, a pinch of lemon and creamy oak. Trivento 2010 Amado Sur Torrontés also more elegance. Tastes snappy and mildly herbal, Finishes quick, with a nice feel and adequate acidity; 82 (Mendoza). High-toned citrus aromas lead to with a juicy, slightly lean finish. Food friendly; drink will do best if well chilled. Wine Brokers Unlimited. a sharp, spritzy palate with pithy flavors and lots of zest. now through 2013. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. —M.S. Doesn’t taste like much besides tangy lime and citrus. abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 13.7% Price: $11 Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 Pulenta Estate 2008 Gran Corte VII (Men- Vintage Sun 2010 Chardonnay (Mendo- 88 doza). On the bouquet it leans toward ripe 85 za). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Torrontés (Salta). and heady but there’s also a strong herbal and tomato abv: 13.5% Price: $10 82 Pickled, flat, melony aromas are not terribly element that creates a green element. Feels full but fresh. The palate is plodding, with nectarine and kum- choppy and tannic, with berry, tomato and spice flavors. quat flavors. Hints at tropicality and oily lychee on the Feels warm on the finish, with herbal shadings. Drink sauvignon blanc finish. Tasted twice three months apart with identical now; Malbec with Cab Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc scores. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. and Petit Verdot. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. O. Fournier 2010 B Crux Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $44 88 Blanc (Uco Valley). Given that Argentina is hardly SB country, this wine sticks out for its clarity, Familia Cassone 2011 La Florencia Tor- Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Malbec-Syrah minerality and freshness. The nose offers lean lime and 81 rontés (Luján de Cuyo). Sweaty and feral 87 (Mendoza). For full review see page 9. Best other citrus aromas. That’s followed by a juicy palate smelling, with just a tad of the pleasant lychee and mel- Buy. with lime, passion fruit and tangerine flavors. Tropical on this grape is known for. Feels heavy and oily, with abv: 13.5% Price: $11 but also citric, with cutting acidity. Fine Estates From barely any acidity and pithy, oily, citrus flavors. Clunky Spain. —M.S. stuff for new Torrontés. Bedford International. —M.S. Bodega Elena de Mendoza 2010 Red abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 82 Blend (Mendoza). Rubbery on the nose, with licorice, horse hide and black fruit aromas. Almost too Maipe 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). Filus 2011 Torrontés (Salta). Smells just lush and soft in the mouth, with a candied nature and 86 Clean, citric and precise on the nose, then ex- 81 like Fantastik cleaner, and that’s not good. Feels ultrasweet, syrupy flavors of vanilla and baked berries. ceedingly lean and pointy in the mouth, where uncom- glitchy and catchy in the mouth, with oily, bitter flavors Finishes with brown sugar and chocolate cake flavors. promised flavors of mineral, lime and orange peel set of pithy citrus. Chalky on the finish. Bronco Wine Com- Extremely sweet; spineless. Wine Brokers Unlimited. up a chalky, crisp finish. Mouthwatering and cleansing. pany. —M.S. —M.S. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Torrontés Caligiore 2010 Staccato Malbec-Caber- Familia Cassone 2011 La Florencia Sau- 80 (Salta). Sharp on the nose, then clacky in the 82 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Hot, rubbery 85 vignon Blanc (Luján de Cuyo). Neutral mouth. The palate suggests chemicals mixed with ly- and burning on the nose, and then clampy in the mouth, smelling except for a bit of lime, grass and mineral. chee and melon. Clumsy on the finish and lacking tact with compact, highly generic flavors of red cherry and Feels juicy and citric in the mouth, with pithy flavors and charm as a whole. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. plum. The heat and burn that’s present up front re- of lime, orange and green grass. Finishes slightly bitter abv: 14.5% Price: $13 emerges on the finish, where jackhammer tannins hold and pithy, but fresh and tangy. Bedford International. court. Marquee Selections. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 viognier

Vintage Sun 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- Lagarde 2010 Viognier (Mendoza). Tropi- Argentine whites 85 doza). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. 84 cal aromas include lychee. Feels big on the pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 ate but bland, with baNAa, melon and peach flavors. chardonnay Low on acidity but full of melony flavor. Shows some Zorzal 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendo- burn on the finish. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. Ruca Malen 2010 Reserva Chardonnay 83 za). Was probably better a year or two ago; abv: 14.8% Price: $18 88 (Mendoza). Tropical aromas blend nicely with now it’s losing steam and smelling and tasting oily and honey, peach and freshly-cut hay notes. The palate is pithy. Aromas of almond skins denote old age, and while Lagarde 2010 Altas Cumbres Viognier focused and properly acidic, with lemon, green apple, there’s still vital acidity and leftover citrus flavors, it’s fast 84 (Mendoza). Fleshy white fruit and vanilla aro- vanilla and toasty flavors. Perfectly fresh and easy on approaching its deadline. Best to wait for the 2010, or mas set up a fresh-feeling, sort of plump palate with the finish, with good citric carry through. Opici Wines. even the 2011. Delectatio Wines. —M.S. spice, melon and sweet vanilla flavors. Round, soft and —M.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $15 pleasant on the finish, with a mild pithy aftertaste. Well- abv: 13.7% Price: $18 Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $11 Ruca Malen 2010 Yauquén Chardonnay 86 (Mendoza). Opens with clean, standard tropi-

WineMag.com | 53 Mil Piedras 2010 Viognier (Mendoza). flavors. Long and more chocolaty on the finish, with a Tololo 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 83 Tinny and minerally on the nose, then citric and touch of medicinality. Winebow. —M.S. 85 (Cachapoal Valley). Jammy black fruit aro- zesty in the mouth. Flavors of lemon, lime and scallion abv: 14% Price: $18 mas aren’t specific or elevated but they work to draw are narrow but crisp. Tangy on the finish. A basic re- you in. Feels regular, with blackberry, black currant and fresher. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. Ventisquero 2009 Grey [Glacier] Single dark cherry flavors that don’t rise above normal. Finish- abv: 13% Price: $11 89 Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val- es with cola and straightforward feel and length. Mon- ley). Superripe and dark, with black currant, black tecastelli Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. cherry and prune aromas. Jammy and deep in the abv: 14% Price: $9 chilean reds mouth, but with enough acidity to preserve liveliness. Tastes sweet and ripe, then layered and medicinal on Santa Ema 2010 Selected Terroir Cab- Cabernets & Blends the finish. Pushes the envelope on ripeness. Austral 84 ernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Generic Wines. —M.S. black fruit aromas are accompanied by mocha, heat and Emiliana 2007 Gê (Colchagua Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $20 lemony oak. Feels tannic and choppy, with herbal berry 93 One of Chile’s best wines is excellent in 2007. fruit flavors. Lively but pointed and jagged on the finish. The bouquet is concentrated, jammy and powerful, Errazuriz 2008 Don Maximiano Found- T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. with Graham cracker sweetness offset by earth notes 88 er’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Acon- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and leather. Lush and deep across the palate, with classy cagua Valley). Quite leafy smelling, with tobacco and cassis, blackberry and fudge flavors. Layered and silky a ton of barrel influence. Big, woody and resiny feeling, on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Banfi Vintners. with rugged tannins pushing sweet, ripe berry and spice carmenère Editors’ Choice. —M.S. flavors. Toasty, chocolaty and herbal as it finishes, but al- abv: 15% Price: $92 ways there’s a strong oak presence. Vintus LLC. —M.S. TerraNoble 2009 CA1 Andes Carmenère abv: 14.5% Price: $95 91 (Colchagua Valley). Sweet, smooth and in- Cousiño-Macul 2007 Lota (Maipo Valley). viting aromas of blackberry, marzipan, vanilla and toasty 92 Complex and classy Cabernet Sauvignon (with Veramonte 2009 Primus Cabernet Sau- oak lead to a dense, layered palate with a silky feel and 15% Merlot) that sets a new high point for Lota. Sous- 87 vignon (Colchagua Valley). For full review elevated flavors of blackberry, baked plum and coffee. bois, cigar box, fine leather and dry cassis and cherry see page 7. There’s enough acid for it all to ride on, but the focus is aromas precede a layered, smooth palate with sweet, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 on dense flavors, richness and texture. Winebow. Edi- toasted berry, currant, mocha and vanilla flavors. Fin- tors’ Choice. —M.S. ishes with obvious but restrained oak and spice. Drink Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) abv: 13.5% Price: $23 now through 2014. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 86 2010 BrisAndes Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $85 (Colchagua Valley). Olive, herbs, black pepper and TerraNoble 2009 Gran Reserva Carme- minerality accent core black cherry and berry aromas. 89 nère (Maule Valley). Dark, smoky, choco- Aresti 2007 Family Collection (Curicó It’s a touch choppy and tight in the mouth, with decent laty and welcoming up front, then firm and juicy in the 91 Valley). This wine has traveled miles in the structure and mildly herbal flavors of blackberry and mouth, with berry flavors, chocolate, herbal notes and right direction compared to its early incarnations. It’s plum. Finishes lightly herbal and easy. Clock Tower Im- earth. Not overly dense or heavy, with a racy character piercing and potent up front, with cigar box, mocha, ports. Best Buy. —M.S. and proper acidity on the finish. Bright and flavorful. toast and coffee aromas in addition to fine flavors of to- abv: 14% Price: $11 Winebow. —M.S. bacco, cassis, vanilla and lightly baked berry and cassis. abv: 14% Price: $18 Finishes wavy and long; 50% Syrah along with Merlot, Viña Tabalí 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sau- Cab and Carmenère. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. 86 vignon (Maipo Valley). Roasted smelling, San Pedro 2009 1865 Single Vineyard abv: 14% Price: $24 with black olive, rubber and turned earth on the nose. 88 Carmenère (Maule Valley). A classic Chil- Syrupy and dense, with jammy flavors of blackberry but ean Carmenère with olive, herbs, coconut and spiced Montes 2007 Alpha M (Santa Cruz). Im- not much spice, length or complexity. Finishes quick, berry aromas. Tannic and textured, with friction in front 91 pressive as always, with dense, meaty aromas with grabby tannins and jammy density. Southern Wine of herbal flavors that include tobacco, olive and a mix of baked black fruits, compost and dried cheese. The Group. —M.S. of berry fruits. Remains tannic and full as it keeps up palate is thick to the max, with chocolate, coconut and abv: 14% Price: $15 the press through the finish. Shaw-Ross International baked plum and berry flavors. Ultrarich on the finish, Importers. —M.S. with warmth and density. Once again "M" shows how Emiliana 2010 Eco Balance Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $19 deep and rewarding high-end Chilean reds can be. 85 Sauvignon (Central Valley). A little scratchy Drink now through 2015. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. and muddy initially, with balsamic and black fruit aro- Ventisquero 2009 Grey [Glacier] Single abv: 15% Price: $95 mas. Feels healthy but entirely average, with blackberry 88 Block Carmenère (Maipo Valley). This and cassis flavors leading to a lightly herbal and choc- wine consistently scores in the upper 80s. This vintage San Pedro 2007 Cabo de Hornos Spe- olaty finish. Straight down the middle. Banfi Vintners. is dealing hard spice and herbal aromas along with tight- 90 cial Reserve (Chile). Complex on the nose, Best Buy. —M.S. grained oak scents. Fresh but tannic, with bite and juicy, with leather, dried flowers, tobacco, licorice, coconut abv: 14% Price: $9 racy flavors of berry matched by woodspice. Fades away and cassis aromas. It’s solid as a rock on the palate, with with hickory and BBQ flavors. Austral Wines. —M.S. herbal, spicy flavors of mature berry fruits and raisin. La Playa 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Col- abv: 14% Price: $20 Spicy and a touch hot on the finish. Drink now through 85 chagua Valley). Rubbery and earthy smelling 2015. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. on first take, with bulky, dark berry aromas mixed with Apaltagua 2010 Reserva Carmenère abv: 14.5% Price: $44 herbal notes. Shows tannic bite and grab along with 87 (Colchagua Valley). Dark fruit aromas carry standard, herbal flavors of blackberry and black olive. the bouquet, which is compact and clean even if it loses Cousiño-Macul 2009 Antiguas Reservas Finishes similarly. Good Cab for $7. Cabernet Corpora- potency with airing. Shows good texture and acidity to 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). True tion. Best Buy. —M.S. support herbal, traditional flavors of blackberry, plum Maipo aromas of tobacco, eucalyptus, earth and herbal abv: 13.5% Price: $7 and fig. Dry, lightly herbal and likable on the finish. berry lead to a full and rugged palate with plenty of tan- Global Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. nic grip and loads of black fruit, cassis and chocolate abv: 14% Price: $11

54 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Chilcas 2009 Las Almas Carmenère Chilensis 2010 Reserva Merlot (Maule The palate is smooth and fairly thick, with a sticky, grab- 87 (Maule Valley). Floral and different than 84 Valley). Simultaneously green and sweet on by mouthfeel and sweet, lightly green and herbal flavors most, with an earthy calm to the nose. Seems wide the nose, with murky fruit aromas and marshmallow. of cherry and plum. Full but flattens on the finish. Bay- and grapey in the mouth, with thick black fruit flavors, Tannic and tight in the mouth, with crisp acidity push- state Wine & Spirits. —M.S. sweetness and chocolate. Softens and turns chunky on ing olive, herb and plum flavors. Peppery and drying abv: 14.5% Price: $14 the finish, where there’s oak and some heat. Full-bodied late, with a final wave of minty green. Vici Wine and and weighty. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Spirits. —M.S. William Cole 2010 Columbine Special abv: 14% Price: $49 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 Reserve Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Casa- blanca Valley). Snappy and edgy as you give it a sniff, Concha y Toro 2010 Xplorador Carme- Santa Ema 2010 Selected Terroir Merlot with piercing rhubarb, red cherry and peppery aromas. 87 nère (Central Valley). Lightly herbal on the 83 (Peumo). Smells like a jumble of latex, va- Shows a bit of cushion and softness in the mouth along nose, but overall there’s more ripe berry and toasty nilla, dried cheese, olive, plum and berry. Feels hard with spicy, slightly herbal flavors of red plum and rasp- chocolate aromas than green. Full, meaty and deep for and grabby, with herbal black fruit flavors and a dash of berry. Spicy on the finish, with citrusy acidity and dry a value-priced wine, with blackberry and black plum forced, faux oak. Finishes sweet and green, with herbal oak notes. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. flavors along with a pinch of oregano and basil. Shows overtones. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 good weight and balance throughout. Impressive for a abv: 13.5% Price: $10 50,000-case product. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $8 San Elias 2010 Merlot (Central Valley). 85 (Maule Valley). Grassy and a little horsey on 82 Tomato, red fruit and resiny oak aromas don’t the nose, with a controlled herbal/weedy character. Viña Siegel 2010 Crucero Reserva Car- exactly scream "fresh." Feels rustic and scratchy, with Chunky, round and full in the mouth, with mild acidity 86 menère (Colchagua Valley). Mildly green herbal, sawdust and vanilla flavors clouding out any and oaky, muddled red-berry flavors and vanilla. Plump and herbal on the nose, with bell pepper, oregano, black quality fruit that might exist. Not much here, really. Ky- and short on definition. Good, however, for the money. plum and berry aromas. Concentrated and tight in the sela Père et Fils. —M.S. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. mouth, with firmness, some burn and round, dark fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14.5% Price: $11 vors of baked berry and toasty oak. Heavy and chocolaty on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Pinot abv: 14% Price: $13 pinot noir 85 Noir (Maipo Valley). Opens on the scratchy side but settles into true Pinot country with some air- Quintay 2010 Clava Reserve Carmenère TerraNoble 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir ing. Chunky and full in the mouth, with round berry 85 (Rapel Valley). Heavily toasted, with burnt 87 (Casablanca Valley). This is a crisp, spicy, flavors and leafy, herbal spice notes. Just juicy and fresh and/or baked black fruit aromas. Feels soft on the pal- fully oaked Pinot with raspberry, herb and toast aromas. enough on the finish, with additional spice and some ate, where the flavors run sweet, doughy and a touch Racy and zesty on the palate, and full of zingy, red-tilt- burn. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. green. Chunky and a bit limp on the finish, with thick ing pie cherry, plum and raspberry flavors. Turns oaki- abv: 14% Price: $12 flavors of prune and stewed berry fruits. Montecastelli er and toastier late, with caramel balanced by residual Selections. —M.S. acidity on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. Viña Requingua 2010 Puerto Viejo Re- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 84 serve Pinot Noir (Curicó Valley). Earth, pepper and prickly spice comprise the aromas on this San Elias 2010 Carmenère (Central Val- Chilensis 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir Central Valley Pinot. Feels resiny and warm, with sweet 84 ley). Old-style Carmenère with green bean, 86 (Maule Valley). This wine, for Maule PN, is a flavors of black cherry, cream and oak. Spicy, chunky mocha and muddy berry aromas. Tight and more acid- consistent, proven value. It’s lightly perfumed and pep- and drying on the finish. Good for the price. Puerto Vie- ic than expected, with generic red berry, chocolate and pery on the nose, with herb and leather hints. Has a jo Wines. —M.S. mocha flavors along with a palpable wave of green. Fin- good body, smooth tannins and acidity, and earthy fla- abv: 14% Price: $10 ishes quick and crisp. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. vors of strawberry and raspberry. Mild on the finish; abv: 13.5% Price: $15 tastes like Pinot should. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Cono Sur 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Val- abv: 14% Price: $12 83 ley). Light and prickly in style, with citrus aro- mas along with tight cherry and plum scents. Runs lean merlot Leyda 2010 Classic Pinot Noir (Leyda in the mouth, with short, tart red fruit flavors in front of 86 Valley). High-toned and citric on the nose, a crisp, sheer finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. Errazuriz 2010 Estate Reserva Merlot with foresty spice and a whiff of the ocean. Tight and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 87 (Curicó Valley). Generally ripe, clean and nervy in the mouth, with herbal, spicy red plum flavors fresh. Smells pure and spicy, with blackberry aromas that are true to the variety. Honest but a touch lean and setting up a crisp palate. Tastes a little herbal as do al- fiery on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. syrah most all Chilean , but the berry fruit and spice abv: 14% Price: $12 elements are uncompromised and uncomplicated. A Quintay 2010 Q Syrah (Casablanca Val- likable value Merlot. Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. Vistamar 2010 Sepia Reserva Pinot Noir 89 ley). Cola, spice, peppercorn and compost aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 (Casablanca Valley). Spicy and dry smelling, mas are present and accounted for. Firm, structured with red fruit aromas and a hint of prickle and brine and tannic across the tongue, with refined but power- Viña Siegel 2010 Crucero Reserva Merlot to the nose. Smooth in the mouth and full through the ful herb, blackberry, carob and spiced flavors. A lush 85 (Colchagua Valley). Mossy, furry, leafy black midpalate as plum and red berry flavors blend with and generous wine with mocha and herbal notes on the fruit aromas are a reasonably good opening. Feels up- herbal notes. Mellow and full on the finish. Good value. finish. Only 200 cases made. Montecastelli Selections. right and alert, with bright acidity. Flavors of plum and Morande USA. Best Buy. —M.S. —M.S. berry blend with chocolate, herbs and spice in front of a abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 grabby, slightly clacky finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 Viu Manent 2010 Secreto Pinot Noir Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva Syrah (Ra- 86 (Casablanca Valley). Prickly and briney on 87 pel Valley). A chewy Syrah that’s still fresh the nose, with cool-climate crispness to the aromatics. and balanced. The nose is deep and rubbery, with

WineMag.com | 55 crusty black fruit aromas. Lush and fruity on the palate, François Lurton 2011 Hacienda Arauca- which brings blackberry, fig and olive flavors. Smooth 86 no Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Lolol Val- and lightly herbal tasting come finishing time. Carolina ley). A mineral touch graces the bouquet, which is oth- Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. erwise regular and salinic, with a touch of sweet animal abv: 13.5% Price: $11 cracker. Medium in weight, with citrusy acidity, pithy grapefruit and lime flavors. Tangy but calm on the fin- Viu Manent 2010 Secreto Syrah (Colcha- ish, with a final dose of citrus pith. Winesellers Ltd. 87 gua Valley). Dark and heavy from the begin- Best Buy. —M.S. ning, with thick berry, smoked meat, olive and earthy abv: 13% Price: $11 aromas. Concentrated and stout in the mouth, with blackberry, blueberry and chocolate flavors mixed with Viña Siegel 2011 Crucero Reserva Sau- herbs and big tannins. Sweet berry and mocha flavors 86 vignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Fresh but control the finish. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. simple smelling, and generally neutral save for mild ap- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 ple and lime aromas. Healthy in the mouth, with white grapefruit and nectarine flavors. Pithy and a bit grassy Quintay 2010 Clava Coastal Reserve Syr- on the finish, which is apropos for coastal Leyda. Kysela 86 ah (Casablanca Valley). Smells good and Père et Fils. —M.S. fruity, with ample berry force at the bouquet’s center abv: 13.5% Price: $13 along with herbs and spice. Grabby, tannic and stocky on the palate, with sweet, chunky berry, raisin and plum Botalcura 2011 El Delirio Sauvignon flavors. Turns slightly herbal and stewy on the finish. 85 Blanc (Maule Valley). A touch green and Montecastelli Selections. —M.S. vegetal on the nose, with hints of canned peas and bell abv: 14.5% Price: $15 pepper. Fortunately there’s enough lime and minerality to keep it fresh. Feels crisp, tight and wet, with green François Lurton 2010 Hacienda Arau- notes pervading core citrus flavors. Finishes pithy and 85 cano Reserva Syrah (Lolol Valley). Full zesty, with mild bitterness. Specialty Cellars. Best Buy. and rubbery on the nose, with berry, prune and fores- —M.S. ty aromas. Quite tannic and biting on the palate, with abv: 12.5% Price: $9 espresso, stewed prune and bitterness to the flavor pro- file. Finishes hard and unyielding, with a lasting note of San Elias 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Central coffee-like bitterness. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. 84 Valley). Largely neutral from front to back, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 with citrus and apple on the nose. Easygoing and ba- sic in the mouth, with green melon and apple flavors in front of an inoffensive, slightly bitter and pithy finish. chilean whites Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9 sauvignon blanc Anakena 2011 Indo Sauvignon Blanc Leyda 2011 Classic Sauvignon Blanc 83 (San Antonio). Opens with can’t-miss aromas 87 (Leyda Valley). Briney and oceanic on the of asparagus, canned beans and other coastal overtones nose, but not vegetal as lime and green melon aromas that scream "cold climate." Feels full and chunky, with a take control. Citrusy, juicy and fresh in the mouth, with modest spine and vegetal flavors of asparagus, bell pep- passion fruit, citrus, mango and pineapple flavors. This per and green baNAa. Grassy and green on the finish. is pure coastal Chilean SB, and it finishes grassy and Evaton, Inc. —M.S. green, with lasting tang. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Viña Siegel 2011 Crucero Sauvignon Oveja Negra 2011 Single Vineyard Sauvi- 83 Blanc (Curicó Valley). Neutral smelling, 87 gnon Blanc (Maule Valley). Light and clean with mild apple and briney aromas. Feels heavy, flat and up front, with green apple, melon, lime and minerally on the thick side, with average flavors of melon but little aromas. Crisp and balanced in the mouth, with driving to no citrus or smack. Melony, soft and bitter on the fin- citric acids propelling a mixture of scallion, lime, apple ish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. and green herb flavors. Tangy late, with lime and tan- abv: 13% Price: $10 gerine flavors working the finish. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. Maniña 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Central abv: 13.5% Price: $16 82 Valley). Muddled aromas break up with airing and fade from citrus and grass to vegetal and a bit dirty. Chilensis 2011 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc The palate has gaps in it, while the flavors are a sketchy 86 (Casablanca Valley). Light and generally mix of bland citrus and mealy apple. Acceptable but not clean smelling, with standard green apple, melon and convincing. Winery Exchange. —M.S. lime aromas. Feels a touch flat and pithy for Casablan- abv: 12% Price: $13 ca, with generic citrus and mild bitterness for flavors. Pithy and just juicy enough on the finish. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

56 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011 Charbay Brandy N0.83 (USA; Charbay 91 Distillery, St. Helena, CA). Master Distiller spirits Miles Karakasevic has created a dry and sophisticated California brandy, distilled in 1983 (hence the name) proud to be an american and aged for 27 years in French oak barrels. It has an enticing floral and vanilla-bean perfume and intriguing atch out, Cognac: Those American but are then transported to Kentucky, where flavors of Port-like red fruit, tart lemon peel and a toasty brandy-makers are mavericks, all right. they age in former Bourbon barrels. oaky note smoothed over by almonds and brioche, fin- ishing with a raisiny touch. The extended barrel time Free from the constraint of French Turns out, Americans have a long history W means more flavor, but also more intense alcohol. laws, made-in-the-USA brandies often are of brandy innovation, dating all the way back abv: 40% Price: $350 distilled from different grapes—Pinot Noir or to the original maverick: George Washington. Sémillon brandy, anyone? Given the proximity Though better known as a general and Osocalis Heritage Alambic Brandy (USA: to fine grapes, perhaps it should be unsurprising statesman, he also distilled his own rye 90 Osocalis Inc., Soquel, CA). Give this bot- tling, “drawn from our oldest brandy stocks,” a little that California has also become the center of whiskey and brandy. In fact, according to the time to open in the glass. The musky fragrance soon American brandy-making, and some of the best Mt, Vernon Museum, Washington’s plantation gives way to honeysuckle and warm brown sugar and brandy producers also make wine. account book shows that in the year he died vanilla notes. On the palate, this brandy is bitingly dry, But again, different from Cognac, many (1799), he had 60 gallons of peach brandy and with an assertive baked-apple flavor and a lingering, excellent American brandies aren’t made from 67 gallons of apple brandy sent to his main complex finish of vanilla, dried orange peel, clove, and bitter chocolate. 112 cases produced. grapes at all, but rather from apples or other house from the distillery. abv: 40% Price: $150 fruits, starting life as clear eau-de-vie before So how’s a maverick to drink American taking on color and rich vanilla flavors after brandy? Though much of it is lovely in a snifter Paul Masson VS Grande Amber Brandy time spent aging in barrels. on its own, be sure to try a Sidecar (brandy 89 (USA; Constellation Brands, Canandai- gua, NY). For full review see page 8. Speaking of barrels, some of the brandies mixed with lemon and orange liqueur, often abv: 40% Price: $12 tasted for this column displayed gorgeous served in a sugar-rimmed glass) or the Jack caramel and spice notes. Where did that come Rose (apple brandy and lime juice, blushed Osocalis Rare Alambic Brandy (USA; Os- from? It turns out, some brandies (such as those with a touch of grenadine). Cheers, mavericks! 86 ocalis Inc., Soquel, CA). A lightly vegetal and plastic scent knocked down the score on this bran- from Paul Masson) are produced in California, —Kara Newman dy, but the flavor is intact, with a pronounced sweetness and cinnamon and rounded dried fruit finish. Light am- ber color. Etude XO Brandy (USA; Etude Wines, Paul Masson VSOP Grande Amber Bran- abv: 40% Price: $45 94 Napa Valley, CA). From Etude Wines comes 93 dy (USA; Constellation Brands, Canan- this rich, highly aromatic wine lover’s brandy. Made daigua, NY). For full review see page 8. with a blend of brandies aged on average over 20 years abv: 40% Price: $14 in French oak casks, look for -like dried fruit and honey flavors, finishing with a lingering and lightly Etude Pinot Noir Brandy (USA; Etude boozy caramel note. Sipping brandy. 92 Wines, Napa Valley, CA). This 100% Pinot abv: 40% Price: $150 Noir brandy, from Etude winemaker Jon Priest, warms gently all the way down the gullet. A warm scent of cara- Germain-Robin Coast Road Reserve mel and candied oranges precedes a relatively dry pal- 94 (USA; Germain-Robin, Ukiah, CA). This so- ate, which shows fruit laced with leathery notes, finish- phisticated and sippable American brandy can hold its ing with crème brûlée, nutmeg and cardamom. Well- own against fine Cognacs, but at a much gentler price. balanced, with just a little puckery tannin. Although it It has a deep amber color and big, resonating tones of would be a shame to mix this “extremely limited bot- toffee, figs and allspice. A drop of water releases still tling” (600 cases made), it would shine in a cocktail more toffee. Made with a blend of Pinot Noir brandies, sassed up with a little vermouth and bitters. aged on average seven years. Previously sold as Share- abv: 40% Price: $150 holder’s Reserve, now with a new label and new name. abv: 40% Price: $72 Laird’s Applejack (USA; Laird & Com- 92 pany, Scobeyville, NJ). For full review see Osocalis XO (USA; Osocalis Inc., Soc- page 8. 93 quel, CA). From a small family-run distillery, abv: 40% Price: $18 this blend of “older” California brandies has a vibrant golden-orange color and a sweet apples-and-honey Osocalis Apple Brandy (USA; Osocalis note. On the palate, creamy citrus flavors finish big and 92 Inc., Soquel CA). Made with a whopping rich, with caramel, ginger and cinnamon notes, and a 15 different types of apples, this barrel-aged Califor- soft texture. Pair with a fruit dessert, like apple pie with nia brandy has a sweet, fruity scent and sip, drying to vanilla ice cream. Come to think of it, this brandy would an elegant and complex finish with light notes of honey, be dynamite simply poured over ice cream, too. dried fruit, leather, walnut and allspice. Viscous feel. 60 abv: 40% Price: $99 cases produced. abv: 40% Price: $85

WineMag.com | 57 Beer Kaiser and The Maharaja), the Czar is a big and pow- erful brew that offers up intense notes of mocha, mo- lasses, licorice root, dried black berries and cassis. The ’tis the season to go Imperial dark brown brew is rich and filling in the mouth, with prominent hop flavors on the finish to lift the caramel nce cool temperatures roll in, people provide a fantastic warming sensation, soothing and roasted malt notes. Although the alcohol is high, it’s tend to go for drinks that provide a the soul and heating the body from the inside overall quite balanced with a slight warmth to the close. Olittle extra kick. Instead of lighter, out. A great cellar candidate. more refreshing styles like wheat beers or Many consider Russian Imperial Stouts abv: 11.69% Price: $9/22 oz easy-drinking lagers, robust and flavorful to be the king of stouts, with their relatively Leinenkugel’s Big Eddy Russian Imperi- options like barleywines or strong dark ales high alcohol (usually between 8–12% abv) 90 al Stout (Russian Imperial Stout; Jacob are more appropriate for those chilly winter and intense malt profile. But also worth Leinenkugel Brewing Company, WI). For full re- days. But perhaps one of the best pairings for consideration are the American take on the view see page 8. winter’s brisk temperatures is Imperial stout, style (dense, also high-alcohol selections) and abv: 9.5% Price: $11/12 oz 4 pack guaranteed to please thanks to intense flavors extreme additions to the classically English or Stone Belgo Anise Imperial Russian coupled with a lingering heat. Irish style category: From dry, easy drinking 90 Stout 2011 “Odd Year” Release (Russian There are so many different styles of stouts stouts to barrel-aged roasty flavor bombs, the Imperial Stout; Stone Brewing Co., CA). This ale available that there is something for every amount of creativity and experimentation that brewed with star anise, oak chips and Belgian yeast is palate and preference. Though they all trend goes into these offerings is amazing. Intrinsic quite a beast. It pours a thick black color, looking almost like motor oil with a frothy brown head. Strong scents of toward the more flavorful side of the beer to the Imperial style is hop characteristics, cocoa and roasted espresso greet you on the nose, while spectrum—quite simply, they’re delicious— which can be moderate to surprisingly intense. the mouth shows more prominent flavors of anise and they will vary in intensity, weight, alcohol and Grab your favorite bottles and your closest roasted malt. There’s a touch of dried fig and black cur- overall drinkability depending on the specific family and friends, and start the New Year off rant character, but the spice and oaky notes dominate brewer and style. But their frequently higher right…with delicious, well-made beer. Prost! the full-bodied mouth. abv: 10.5% Price: $7/22 oz alcohol content and intense flavors often —Lauren Buzzeo Dock Street Prince Myshkin Russian Im- 88 perial Stout (Russian Imperial Stout; The Old Dock Street Brewery, PA). With just a little Founders Imperial Stout (Russian Impe- der, fresh ground coffee, caramel and soft citrus oils that more carbonation, this stout aged 12 months in Hun- 95 rial Stout; Founders Brewing, MI). Brewed play off of the roasted malt core. garian oak barrels previously used for Pinot Noir would with 10 varieties of malted barley, this Imperial Stout abv: 7.0% Price: $4/550 ml be an absolute gem. The rich stouty aromas and fla- is a beautiful example of the best the style has to of- vors are all there, with an abundance of roasted notes fer. A gorgeous pour, opaque black in color with a seri- Samuel Adams Barrel Room Collection like espresso beans, cocoa nibs and oak-driven spice. It ous head that shows superb staying power. The aromas 92 13th Hour Stout (Belgian-style Stout; pours like motor oil in a viscous stream, and the slick are intoxicating, with an abundance of rich roasty scents Boston Beer Company, MA). This Belgian-style mouth transitions to a dry, charred finish. like Sumatra coffee, dark chocolate, licorice root and stout brewed with 13 ingredients is part of SA’s Barrel abv: 9.5% Price: $15/750 ml booze-soaked warm spicy oak. The round mouth is full Room Collection, meaning it’s aged in Eastern Euro- and creamy, with good carbonation to keep things from pean oak barrels and blended with the brewery’s Kos- feeling too sweet or heavy on the palate. A dry, cocoa- mik Mother Funk (a Belgian-style ale aged in oak for dusted finish seals the deal, and lingers until your next over six months), so there’s a definite soft tartness to the decadent sip. beer’s overall character. Notes of sweet spice, chicory abv: 10.5% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack coffee, bittersweet chocolate and oak are lifted by a hop resin and grapefruit oil streak throughout. Medium-full Stone Imperial Russian Stout 2011 (Rus- in the mouth with good carbonation and a brisk acidic 95sian Imperial Stout; Stone Brewing Co., lift to the spicy, dry finish. CA). A classic Imperial Stout with a strong overall char- abv: 9.0% Price: $10/750 ml acter and elements that are all in balance. Thick and dark with aromas of roasted espresso, sweet spice, lico- Full Sail Black Gold Imperial Stout Bour- rice root, molasses and tobacco leaf framed by a firm 92 bon Barrel Aged Brewmaster Reserve hop presence and bitterness. Big and full-weight in the 2011 (Russian Imperial Stout; Full Sail Brewing, mouth with medium carbonation and attractive resiny OR). Although the label promises a “hint of oak,” it’s citrus flavors and bitterness to the long finish. A nice the defining characteristic of this beer. Aged in Bour- warming kick lingers through the close. bon barrel casks for 10 months, this is actually quite abv: 10.5% Price: $7/22 oz the oak bomb, with intense notes of Bourbon-soaked vanilla beans, sweet spice, cigar tobacco and roasted co- Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout (Russian coa nibs that infuse the soft prune and dried black berry 93 Imperial Stout; Sameul Smith Old Brew- fruit accents. Chewy and full, this is a big brew with a ery (Tadcaster), England). This classic from Sam- ton of flavor. uel Smith’s is a reliable selection for the chilly winter abv: 11.4% Price: $12/22 oz months, and the medium carbonation and approach- able alcohol ensure that you can easily enjoy a couple Avery The Czar Imperial Stout (Russian bottles. Pouring a deep black color with a full tan head, 91 Imperial Stout; Avery Brewing Company, this toasty selection offers nuanced notes of cocoa pow- CO). Part of Avery’s Dictator Series (along with The

58 | wine enthusiast | best of year 2011