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Iberian Peninsula Iberian Peninsula April 18 - May 3, 2019 Gijon/ Oviedo La Coruna Lugo Bilbao Santiago de Vilagarcia Compostela Barcelona Porto SPAIN PORTUGAL Ronda Córdoba Seville Granada Cartagena ATLANTIC Malaga Motril OCEAN Saturday, April 20, 2019 Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain / Embark Ocean Adventurer During the course of yesterday we had gathered at H1898, a comfortable historic hotel in the heart of Barcelona, where, over cocktails and dinner, we met our fellow travelers and were introduced to our expedition team. Today we set out by bus and on foot to explore this city, the capital of the Spanish province of Catalonia. Without doubt, the highlight was our visit to La Sagrada Familia, the remarkable, famously- unfinished masterpiece of the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926). This unique building, whose construction was begun in 1882, has a form which is almost organic, its many spires and their decoration with biblical stories appearing to have grown naturally. We were fortunate to have a tour of the interior, a huge space full of light and color. Construction continues apace with aim of finally finishing in 2026, the centenary of the death of Gaudí. A walk through the narrow streets and lanes of the city’s gothic quarter took us to the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia, which dates from the late 13th to the 19th centuries, its style a complete contrast to that of Gaudí. The adjacent Royal Palace saw a historic meeting in 1492—this was where Christopher Columbus described his discoveries to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella on his return from his voyage to the New World. Our walk continued to the 7 Portes restaurant where we enjoyed a typically long, leisurely Catalonian lunch before our buses took us the short distance to the port where the Ocean Adventurer, our home for the next 12 days, awaited us. As we sailed out of the harbor, we looked back to see Columbus atop his column, his outstretched arm directing us to explore. Sunday, April 21 At Sea With a leisurely day at sea, we enjoyed a relaxed start with an Easter Sunday brunch before our expedition geologist, Tom Sharpe, kicked off our lecture program with his presentation on the geology and landscape of Iberia. Our talks continued with our local guide Emma Gutierrez’s entertaining perspective on modern Spain, highlighting the country’s regional differences and how these contrasted with the image the country projected of itself to the outside world in the 1960s. Our day of presentations concluded with historian T.H. Baughman, who summed up the first 15,000 years of Spanish history most eloquently. Our day at sea came to an end with the captain’s welcome cocktail party and dinner hosted by the master of the Ocean Adventurer, Yury Gododnik. Monday, April 22 Cartagena / Murcia, Región de Murcia After docking in the ancient port of Cartagena, we set out on the drive north to the city of Murcia, the eponymous capital of this autonomous region of Spain. Known as the orchard of Europe, this area is predominantly agricultural, growing not just the traditional crops of oranges, lemons, olives, and almonds but others such as melons and peppers for the markets in northern Europe. The irrigation system serving the fields still uses the network of channels established during the Moorish occupation of Spain many centuries ago. Our route took us across the forested foothills of the Sierra Carrascoy to the attractive town of Murcia, which was settled by the Moors in the 9th century and conquered by the Christians in the 13th. The town was bedecked with many colorful flowers in preparation for the Funeral of the Sardine, an annual festival. We viewed the 18th-century Rococo Bishop’s Palace and entered the Santa Maria Cathedral opposite. This building, originally a mosque, became a cathedral in 1394 and over the course of the next 500 years, evolved through a variety of architectural styles— Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque—into that which we see today. Inside, through their elaborately decorated private chapels, rich local families displayed their wealth. We continued to the Royal Casino, not a gambling den, but a private club dating from 1847. Its name deriving from casa, a house, this was the preserve of the wealthy and influential in Murcia and the place where business was transacted. Its impressive facade stood out against the shop fronts of the Calle Trapería and the interior is ornately decorated and furnished. Today, over 150 years on, it remains a private club. After lunch on the ship, we explored the city of Cartagena with our guides, and in particular the spectacular Roman amphitheater which was discovered only in 1987 when some house repairs were being undertaken. The discovery led to the demolition of an area of the city and the relocation of the inhabitants so that excavation could take place. Tuesday, April 23 Motril / Granada, Andalucía We awoke this morning with our ship alongside in the port of Motril, where we disembarked for a rather rainy drive north to Granada, passing fields of fruit and olive trees before we rose up into the mountains of the Betic Cordillera. Arriving in Granada, we wandered the narrow, Moorish streets with their tiny close-packed shops, so much like the souks of Morocco and the Arab world, and found our way in heavy rain to the Capella Real de Granada. This tall, Flemish Gothic royal chapel, built between 1506 and 1521, is the final resting place of the powerful Catholic monarchs, Isabella of Castile and her husband Ferdinand of Aragon. Their tomb, of intricately sculpted Italian Carrara marble, lies behind a huge grille of gilded iron, and next to them is that of Philip the Handsome and Joanna the Insane, while above rises a huge, colorful carved wooden altarpiece. The adjacent sacristy housed Isabella’s silver crown and scepter, as well as her collection of religious paintings, including a work by Boticelli. A short, wet walk took us to the adjacent Cathedral which has the tomb of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (Charles I of Spain, and Isabella’s grandson) within an enormous round pantheon which he had constructed for himself. A lunch of wine and tapas followed, after which we made our way to our hotel in the center of the city for a well-earned, traditional siesta. In the late afternoon, our buses took us uphill to the Alhambra Palace Hotel where we enjoyed a lively flamenco performance followed by dinner, with a wonderful view over the city. As the sun went down, we strolled a short distance to the Alhambra itself and the highlight of our visit—a private tour of this spectacular example of Moorish architecture and its gardens by twilight. Returning down to the city, we fell into our beds at the Barcelo Carmen Granada Hotel, ready for our Andalusian adventure to continue tomorrow. Wednesday, April 24 Granada / Córdoba From our hotel in the center of Granada, this morning we headed northwest towards Córdoba. As we departed the city, the brilliant white summits of the nearby Sierra Nevada caught our eye, yesterday’s rain having fallen as snow on these, the highest mountains on the Spanish mainland. Our route took us through lower mountains of the Betic Cordillera, with undulating olive groves stretching as far as we could see. A break at the settlement of Luque allowed us to sample, and purchase, some of this region’s finest extra virgin olive oil before we continued down into the wide Betic Depression and the valley of the Rio Guadalquivir. Olive groves gave way to wheat fields as we crossed the rolling landscape towards Córdoba. This city of yellow stone sits at an ancient crossing point on the Guadalquivir River, still spanned by a Roman bridge. We gathered with our local guide in the 16th-century Orange Tree Courtyard of the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba before she led us through a small door and into the building itself, a breathtaking experience as we found ourselves in the most enormous space, a Muslim prayer hall with hundreds of columns and arches in all directions. This remarkable building, now a World Heritage Site, comprises an 8th-century mosque adapted in the 13th century to become a Roman Catholic chapel and cathedral, preserving not only some wonderful Muslim architecture but various phases of Catholic construction. We then explored the narrow streets of the city’s old Jewish Quarter and several of Córdoba’s famous patios, the small central courtyards of private houses, some from the 16th century, which are festooned with hundreds of brightly colored plants in preparation for an annual festival and competition. After lunch at a local restaurant, we left Córdoba by bus to travel south past olive groves and vineyards and through some rugged mountains to Málaga where our ship awaited us. A final treat lay in store for us when, after dinner, we were called up on deck to enjoy a fine panorama of the lights along the south coast of Spain, culminating in the huge, floodlit gray lump of the Rock of Gibraltar off our starboard bow. Ahead of us lay the darkness of the Strait of Gibraltar where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean and, to port, the lights of the north African coast. Two continents in one view. Thursday, April 25 Seville In the ancient world, the headlands guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean were called the Pillars of Hercules and marked the limits of the known world. Overnight, we had boldly gone beyond and into the Atlantic Ocean. By dawn we were entering the mouth of one of the great rivers of the Iberian Peninsula, the Guadalquivir.
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