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Maine & Acadia National Park 1

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Maine & National Park

North Woods p182

Acadia National Park Inland Maine & Down East p192 p132 Western Maine p170 Midcoast Maine p96 Portland p50

Southern Maine p76

Regis St Louis, Adam Karlin PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Maine Eat & Drink Saco Bay & & . . . 4 Like a Local...... 36 Old Orchard Beach . . . . . 94 Maine & Acadia Activities...... 42 National Park Map. . . . . 6 MIDCOAST Regions at a Glance. . . . 46 Maine & Acadia MAINE ...... 96 National Park’s Top 15 . . . . 8 Freeport...... 100 Need to Know...... 16 PORTLAND...... 50 Bath...... 102 Wiscasset ...... 104 Getting Around Maine . . . . 18 SOUTHERN MAINE Boothbay Harbor. . . . . 105 If You Like ...... 20 COAST...... 76 Damariscotta ...... 110 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Kittery ...... 78 Pemaquid Point ...... 113 The Yorks...... 79 Monhegan Island. . . . . 114 Itineraries ...... 26 Ogunquit...... 82 Rockland...... 116 Travel with Children. . . . 32 The Kennebunks ...... 86 Camden...... 121 Rockport...... 125 TETRA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES © AMOLSON7/GETTYIMAGES ©

LOBSTER BUOYS, CAMDEN P121 SUEFELDBERG/GETTY IMAGES ©

PIPING PLOVER CHICK Contents

UNDERSTAND

Belfast...... 127 Brooklin...... 158 Maine & Acadia Searsport...... 130 Castine...... 159 National Park Today. . .. 204 Deer Isle History...... 206 & Stonington...... 162 Wildlife & the ACADIA Environment...... 210 NATIONAL PARK Isle au Haut...... 164 & DOWN EAST. . . 132 Machias Bay Area. . . . 166 People & Culture . . . . . 214 Acadia National Park & Lubec...... 168 Writers of Maine...... 217 . . . 138 Acadia National Park. . . . 138 WESTERN Bar Harbor ...... 144 MAINE ...... 170 Northeast Harbor. . . . . 150 Bridgton...... 172 Southwest Harbor. . . . . 151 Bethel...... 174 Cranberry Isles...... 153 Rangeley ...... 180 Blue Hill Peninsula. . . . 154 Blue Hill...... 154 NORTH MAINE WOODS ...... 182 SURVIVAL . . . . . 184 GUIDE . . . . . 187 Directory A–Z...... 220 INLAND Transportation . . . . . 225 MAINE ...... 192 Index...... 229 Augusta...... 193 Map Legend...... 239 Bangor...... 199

SPECIAL FEATURES The Best Day Trips Hiking in Acadia from Portland...... 52 National Park...... 134 Lazy Days on Road Trip > the Southern Park Loop Road . . . . . 136 Maine Coast...... 90 Road Trip > Hiking in Old Canada Road. . . . 194 P54 Midcoast Maine. . . . . 98 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

É É Bar MAINE •# Harbor ÷#

E Acadia R I Camden •# National H

S Park P

M É •# Rockland A Damariscotta H •# W

E N Brunswick É

•# É É •# É Boothbay Harbor

Portland•#

É Gulf of Maine

Ù#Ogunquit Beach York •#

1 WEEK Classic Maine

This highlights-filled wander across the state takes in coastal beauty, charming small towns and fabulous seafood. Start off in picturesque York. Take in the colonial buildings that make up its histori- cal center, then drive to Ogunquit Beach for a stroll along Marginal Way. Next, head to Portland for a day of exploring the Old Port district. Continue up the coast, stopping in Brunswick for an architectural stroll among 19th-century beauties, and peruse the town’s intriguing museums. Rise early for a trip down to Boothbay Harbor, visiting the waterfront and fragrant botanical gardens. In the afternoon, drive up to Damariscotta for feast on world- famous oysters. The next day, stop in Rockland to wander the vibrant waterfront and visit the great Farnsworth Art Museum. From Rockland, drive to Camden for window-shopping and dining in one of Maine’s most photogenic towns. It’s about a two-hour drive from here to breathtaking Mount Desert Island. Base your- self in Bar Harbor and spend a day or two exploring the wonders of Acadia National Park. 27

NEW BRUNSWICK

MAINE Lubec •# #÷ É TRIP YOUR PLAN

Searsport É É •# •# •#Bar Harbor Castine

É •# É Northeast Harbor É •# Southwest Harbor Rockland •#Stonington E •#•# R I É •# H Rockland Isle au Haut S P

•# Breakwater It M Freeport Bath A •# Lighthouse i nerar H

•#

W Eartha E

N Portland •# •# Park

É i es Gulf of Maine •#Rachel Carson

É National Wildlife Reserve •#Kittery ÷#Fort Foster Park

1 WEEK Maritime Maine

The coastal road between Kittery and Lubec is a route meant for lingering: fog-wrapped lighthouses, oceanfront picnic tables, museums and waterfront villages. Start off in Kittery, gateway to the state of Maine. Get an introduction to Maine’s coastal allure at Fort Foster Park, then continue to the Rachel Carson National Wildlife Reserve, with its , and beaches. Just south of Portland, Fort Williams Park has the ruins of an old fort, wonderful views and Maine’s oldest functioning lighthouse. From here, it’s an easy drive to Port- land, with its renowned food scene, historic port district and buzzing nightlife. Curiosities abound in Maine, and just outside of Freeport you can check out Eartha, the largest rotating globe on the planet. In Freeport itself, you can pick up supplies at the headquarters of the legendary LL Bean store. You’ll leave the shopping mayhem behind in Bath, an elegant but industrious town with an active shipyard and a museum that covers centuries of seafaring in these parts. Rockland has one of Maine’s most photogenic harbors, and it’s well worth head- ing out on a sailing trip. Afterwards, stretch your legs on the 1-mile seaside walk out to Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. Further up the coast, you’ll reach Searsport, a tranquil town with Victorian mansions and the Marine Museum. The Blue Hill Peninsula lies east of Searsport. It’s home to one of Maine’s prettiest villages, the tiny town of Castine. It’s a good base for coastal strolls, kayak trips, and wandering the town past diverse architecture and a notable archaeological museum. It’s also worth driving down to Deer Isle, where you can eat well in charming Stonington and take a boat trip out to Isle au Haut for some fantastic coastal hiking. Acadia is next. Get your fill of restaurants and shops in Bar Harbor, but don’t bypass other villages, such as elegant Northeast Harbor or buzzing Southwest Harbor. East of Acadia, the population thins considerably. You’ll have the road to yourself as you make your way to Lubec, the last stop before Canada. End this trip in Quoddy Head State Park, with its rugged shoreline trails and a much-photographed lighthouse. 28

•# Hulls Cove Visitor Center Mount Desert É

Island •#Bar Harbor É É É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É Sieur de Monts Spring

Acadia •# É National R Park Precipice Trail Cadillac •# ÷# É •#Sand Beach Jordan •#

House É É

É It i nerar

É

Gulf of Maine i es

Bass Harbor Head Light •#

3 DAYS Acadia National Park

For adventurers, the activities here are hard to beat. Mountain hiking. Coastal kayaking. cycling. Bird-watching. When you’re done exploring, unwind by stargazing on the beach. Start at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center to get the lay of the land and pay the admis- sion fee. From the visitor center, head off on the one-way 27-mile Park Loop Rd, which links many of the park’s highlights. Nature-lovers and history buffs will enjoy a stop at the Sieur de Monts Spring area. Here you’ll find a nature center and the summer-only branch of the , which sits in a lush, naturelike setting. Twelve of Acadia’s biospheres are displayed in miniature at the Wild Gardens of Acadia, from to coniferous woods to . Afterwards, head for the trails. For something exhilarating, hit the Precipice Trail, ascending via iron rungs and along cliff ledges. A gentler option, but with no less stun- ning views, is the Great Head trail, which follows the rocky shoreline. At the end, take a breather on nearby Sand Beach. It’s home to one of the most beautiful shorelines in the park. Continue to the lodge-like House, where afternoon tea has been a tra- dition since the late 1800s. Out on the lawn, you can enjoy tea with hot popovers (hollow rolls made with egg batter) and strawberry jam. Get up before dawn the next day to drive (or hike!) up to the 1530ft summit of Cadil- lac Mountain, one of the best places in Maine to watch the sunrise. In the afternoon, visit the , Mount Desert Island’s only lighthouse, in the far southwest corner of the park. On your last day, spend the morning exploring Bar Harbor. Check out the fascinat- ing collection of Native American artifacts at the Abbe Museum, browse the shops along Main St, then head off on a coastal kayaking trip or a -watching cruise. Also con- sider hiring a bike and going for a spin along the carriage roads; some 45 miles of wood- ed vehicle-free lanes that crisscross the park. In the evening, treat yourself to a meal at one of the fine restaurants in town. 29

QUÉBEC ÷# Baxter State Park É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É A D A •#Millinocket N A A S C U Moosehead Gulf

Lake Hagas É

•# Greenville •# •# É É É Katahdin

É Iron Works

K

e É n It

n b É i nerar

e

c É MAINE Rangeley

R

Lake i es i É •# É v e

r

Bangor •#

6 DAYS Great North Woods

Welcome to the highlands, a land of superlatives where you can hike Maine’s highest mountain, its largest lake and ogle the stomping grounds of America’s spookiest author – if you dare. Start off in Bangor, the last city on the map before the North Woods. Pay a visit to the towering statue of Paul Bunyan, look for diabolical creatures near Stephen King’s house and learn about the town’s dark past at the Bangor Historical Society. Afterwards, hit the road for the 75-mile drive straight up to Millinocket. This makes a fine base to grab a bite to eat and load up on supplies before heading into the wilder- ness of Baxter State Park, one of Maine’s great natural treasures. Be sure to stop by the Baxter State Park Authority Headquarters for maps and park info. Plan on spending at least two days hiking the trails, canoeing the , and looking for wildlife around the mountain streams and forest-covered valleys. Inside the park you can camp or sleep in a bunkhouse or rustic cabin; there are also appealing lodges a few miles outside the park. After getting your fill of Baxter, set out early for the drive south to the , the ruins of a once-burgeoning industrial site that closed in the late 19th century. Keep going another 6.5 miles to reach the the trailhead for Gulf Hagas, a dra- matic gorge with numerous waterfalls. After the hike, it’s a one-hour drive to Greenville, where you can overnight at a guesthouse overlooking Moosehead Lake. In the morning, head out for an adventure on this island-dotted lake, which sprawls over 120 sq miles of North Woods wilderness. For -spotting safaris, guided fishing trips and canoe adventures, stop by Northwoods Outfitters in the center of Greenville. You can also go white-water rafting through a 12- mile gorge along the Kennebec . If you just want to enjoy the views, take a leisurely cruise on the SS Katahdin or enjoy a panoramic flight on a seaplane. Your final stop is Rangeley Lake, a 2½-hour drive southwest of Greenville. This is another great four-season destination for adventures, offering hiking, skiing, canoeing and scenic drives. Plus there are some charming B&Bs and good restaurants right in town. 30 Maine: Off the Beaten Track

r e iv R e MOOSEHEAD LAKE c n re This picturesque body of water is the w PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN a L t backdrop to uncommon adventures, S from moose-watching safaris to r scenic flights on pontoon planes. You ive R n can also chug across the lake aboard h o J t r a 1914 steamboat. (p184) S e v i R

h s Allagash

a

g Wilderness

OFF T H E

a

l

l Waterway A

Québec S Eagle

B N Lake I A Chamberlain EATEN T Lake Baxter N State U O Park CASTINE M Chesuncook TRA N Lake A R A beautiful and historic town near the I Mt Katahdin H (5267ft)

CK shore that makes a great base for C A exploring the Blue Hill Peninsula. L MOOSEHEAD A P LAKE •# Kokadjo Discover its excellent under-the-radar P •# restaurants, craft traditions and A Jackman literary heritage. (p159) •#Greenville West Fork •# Flagstaff Milo •# Lake Carrabassett •# Valley Dover- C A N A D A •# Bingham Foxcroft Rangeley R U S A •# Sugarloaf Mtn (4237ft) Rangeley Newport Lake •# il Skowhegan •# ra T n ia Rumford h c •# Waterville •# r a e l v a i p R •# p •#Bethel c Belfast A White e b Mountain Augusta •# e National n n Forest e Camden •#

K Rockland•# •# Bridgton Damariscotta New Fryeburg•# •# Wiscasset•# Port Hampshire Brunswick •# •# •# Clyde •# Sebago Freeport•# Bath •# New Harbor Lake •# Harpswell Boothbay Casco Harbor Monhegan Portland•# Bay ISLE AU HAUT Island Unplug and drink in the beauty of this •#Old Orchard Beach peaceful island off Stonington. Take •# Kennebunk in the pristine forests, rocky promontories and hidden coves while •# Ogunquit •# walking the island's photogenic trails. •# York Village (p164) Kittery 31

0 •# 100 km e# 0 50 miles : : : : : : •# : ACADIA NATIONAL PARK : : : : TRIP YOUR PLAN WEST SIDE : : : Escape the crowds by heading to the : : : : : : : west side of Mt Desert Island. Summit Caribou•# : : : : Aroostook Acadia Mountain and cool off with a County Presque swim in Echo Lake, then treat yourself: : : : Isle •# to a meal in Southwest Harbor. : : : : : : Squapan (p138) C A N A D A OFF T H E Lake : : : Maine S t J : : : : o

h : : : : : : : n B

R : : : :

EATEN i New

v QUODDY: : HEAD : : : : : Houlton •# e Brunswick r STATE PARK : : •# Patten TRA Watch: tides: fluctuate: dramatically R : :while :strolling: along the majestic

: coastline,: then: pay a visit to one of CK Millinocket : : :Maine’s: most: picturesque •# : •# lighthouses. (p168) Medway : : : : : West : Grand r : : e Lake

v

i

R •#St Stephen

t o

c dy s Big Lake n b Fu o f

n o e Eastport ay P •# B •# Lubec •#Orono #÷ •# QUODDY HEAD Bangor Machias•#•# STATE PARK Machiasport Bucksport Grand Manan •# •# Jonesport Island Blue •# Ellsworth Hill •# •# •# Bar Harbor Nova CASTINE ACADIA NATIONAL PARK Scotia Mount Desert DEER ISLE Island •# Stonington Gulf of Maine ISLE AU HAUT

DEER ISLE There are countless surprises here, from a fairy-tale village made by an artist and jam-maker, to hidden beaches and island-studded vistas

ripe for boating and kayaking A T L A N T I C O C E A N excursions. (p162) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 228

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

and Rachel and Sanda, my two favorite partners for WRITER THANKS climbing up rocks and swimming in the cold ocean. Regis St Louis I am grateful to countless innkeepers, park rangers, baristas, shop owners and folks ‘from away’ who ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS shared Maine insight. Special thanks to Brother Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Arnold for a fabulous meal at Sabbathday Shaker BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Village, Scott Cowger­ for the tips and barn tour in Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Hallowell, Jack Burke and Julie Van De Graaf for their Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. kindness in Castine, and Gregor Clark and Diane Plauche for general Maine suggestions. Special Cover photograph: Scarborough, Tom Whitney thanks to my family, who make coming home the Photography/Getty Images © best part of travel. Adam Karlin Thanks to: Trisha Ping for letting me poke around the Pine Tree State, the Barclays for hosting us, friends and family and kind strangers met along the way,

Destination Editor Book Designer THIS BOOK Trisha Ping Jessica Rose This 1st edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Assisting Editors Planet’s Maine & Acadia Grace Dobell, Martine Power, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, National Park guidebook was Vicky Smith Lucy Cowie, Victoria Harrison, curated by Regis St Louis, and Product Editor Charlotte Orr, Gabrielle researched and written by Rachel Rawling Stefanos, Maja Vatrić Regis and Adam Karlin. This Regional Senior Cover Researcher guidebook was produced by Cartographer Alison Lyall Naomi Parker the following: Senior Cartographer Thanks to Mark Griffths Evan Godt, Virginia Moreno, Jenna Myers ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 229

Index

A Arnold, Benedict 194, 208 Beecher Stowe, Harriet 217 Bethel 178 Acadia National Park 9, 31, art 22, 94, see Belfast 127-30, 128 Camden 125 47, 132-44, 140-1, 8-9, also museums & Bethel 174-8, 180, 175 Freeport 101 galleries 11, 21, 35 Biddeford 52, 94-5 185 arts centers accommodations 143 52 Kennebunkport 93 Waterfall Arts 127 activities 139, 141-3 180 Monhegan Island 116 ATMs 222 climate 132 birds 213, see also Portland 71, 70, 72 Attean, Joseph 197 food 143 individual species Rock Harbor 120 Augusta 193, 194-5, 198-9, highlights 133 bird-watching bridges 196 hiking 134-5, 142, 134 State Armistice Bridge 127 autumn foliage, see fall Park 176 itineraries 28, 28 foliage Bob Dunning Memorial Park Loop Road 136- 166 Bridge 172 7, 136 Wells National Estuarine Boothbay Harbor park passes 139 B Research Reserve 84 Footbridge 107 tourist information 143 Bangor 199-202 Blue Hill 154-8 Penobscot Narrows Blue Hill Peninsula 11, Bridge 131 travel seasons 132 Bar Harbor 144-50, 146 154-61, 156 Sunday River Covered travel to/from 143 149 blueberries 39, 166, 40 Bridge 175-6 travel within 143-4 Bath 102-3 boat tours & cruises 44 Wiggly Bridge 79 activities 22, 33-4, 42-5, Baxter State Park 13, 43, Bar Harbor 144, 145 Bridgton 172-4 see also individual 187-9, 13 Brooklin 158-9 activities, individual beaches 12, 20, 90 Bath 102 locations Brunswick 52, 194 Colony Beach 87 Boothbay Harbor 107-8 air travel 225 budget 17 East End Beach 56 Camden 121, 122 208 Bunyan, Paul 200, Gooch’s Beach 87 Cranberry Isles 153 5 amusement parks bus tours Half Mile Beach 102 Damariscotta 111 Palace Playland 94 Acadia National Park 145 Jasper Beach 166 Kennebunkport 88, 89 Andre the Seal 126 Portland 58 Kennebunk Beach 87 Machias Seal Island 166 animals 210-13, see also Moosehead Lake 184 bus travel 19, 225-6 individual species Mile Beach 102 Northeast Harbor 150 Bush, George HW 87 15, 43, Ogunquit Beach 84 Ogunquit 84 business hours 17, 41, 222-3 44-5, 176, 186, 15 Old Orchard Beach Portland 58 archaeological sites 94-5, 91 Rockland 117 Colonial Pemaquid State 12 C safety 223 boat travel 226 Historic Site 113 138 Whaleback Shell Midden Sand Beach (Acadia) books 204, 206, 214, 217-18 Camden 121-5, 124 State Historic Site 137, 138 Boothbay 107 Campobello Island 167 110-11 Sand Beach (Deer Isle) Boothbay Harbor 105-10, canoeing, see kayaking & architecture 47, 121, 159 162 106 canoeing area codes 17, 223-4 Whistler Cove 153 border crossings 225 Cape Neddick 79-82 York Harbor Beach 79 Bonyun Preserve 105 car travel 18-19, 226-7, see Bean, Leon Leonwood 100 breweries also road trips, scenic Map Pages 000 bears 210 Bar Harbor 149 drives Photo Pages 000 beavers 212 Belfast 130 car hire 18-19 230 car travel continued cross-country skiing, events 23-5 gardens, see parks & internet resources 18 see skiing exchange rates 17 gardens road rules 19 cruises, see boat tours & Gardiner 198 cruises safety 223 gay travelers 222 culture 90, 214-16 F carriage roads 142 Ogunquit 82 currency 16 falcons 213 Portland 74

INDEX INDEX Carson, Rachel 82-3, 110 Cutler Bold Coast Trail fall foliage 10, 22, 25, 212, Castine 30, 159-61, Georgetown 102 164, 13 190, 197 160, 11 Gilley, Wendell 151 Cutler Coast Public Lands Acadia National Park

C- cell phones 16, 224 gorges  164 8-9

H Chamberlain, Joshua 209 Gulf Hagas 188  cycling 19, 43 Maine River 10 children, travel with Moose Cave 179 Acadia National Park farmers markets 127 32-5, 32 142 fat biking 43 Civil War 209 176, 179 Bar Harbor 144, 145 ferry services 226 climate 16, 23-5, 223, see Great North Woods 29, 29 Camden 121 festivals 23-5 also travel seasons, Greenville 184-6 individual regions Islesboro 123 food 60, 117-18, 166 Griffith Head 102 climbing Kennebunks, the 89 fiddleheads 39, 41, 39 Griggs Preserve 104 Bar Harbor 144 Portland 57 films 204 Gulf Hagas 188 coastal views 21-2 142 food 36-41, 221, 222, 36, coastal walks 13, 13 tours 58 37, 38, 39, 40, see also , individual Bar Harbor 144 York Harbor 81 H locations Bar Island Trail 149 Hallowell 194, 198 farm to table 14, 41, 14 Belfast 127-8 health 221 D festivals 60, 117-18, 166 Boothbay Harbour 107 highways 227 Damariscotta 110-13, 112 tours 58, 145 Cutler Coast Public hiking 20, 43, see dangers, see safety forests Lands 164 also coastal walks Deer Isle 31, 162-4, 24 Steedman Woods 79 Great Head 135 Acadia Mountain 135 deer 14 White Mountain Isle au Haut 164-5 Acadia National Park Desert of Maine 100 National Forest 176 Kennebunnks, the 87-8 134-5, 142 disabilities, travelers Witherle Woods 159 La Verna Preserve Appalachian Trail 15, 43, with 220 Forks, The 197 44-5, 176, 186, 98, 99 15 Dodge Point Preserve 110 forts Lubec 168 Baxter State Park 13, Down East 47, 132-69, 133 State 187, 13 Marginal Way 84, 90-1, accommodations 132 Historic Site 104 Beehive Loop 134-5, 190 State 134 Monhegan Island 116 children, travel with 33 Historic Site 195 Bethel 177 Ogunquit 83, 84 climate 132 State Park 131 Blue Hill Mountain 155 Portland 57 food 132 102, 12 Boothbay Harbor 107 York Harbor 81 highlights 133 Fort William Henry 113 Cadillac Mountain 138 202 travel seasons 132 Fort Williams Park 54-5 Camden Hills State colonization 207-8 travel to/from 138 Old 198 Park 121 Common Ground Country drinking 41, 222 Fort Foster Park 78 Cutler Coast Public Fair 25 driving, see car travel foundries Lands 164, 13 courses Katahdin Iron Works 188 Grafton Notch State boatbuilding 158 Park 176, 179 E Fourth of July 25, 24, 32 crafts 162 Gulf Hagas 188 eagles 213 Freeport 100-2 media 126 Isle au Haut 164-5 Eartha 100 French Canadian outdoor discovery 100 La Verna Preserve 98, East Boothbay 107 immigrants 215 Cranberry Isles 153-4 113, 99 economy 204 Fryeburg 173 credit cards 222 Maiden Cliff Trail 99 electricity 221 midcoast Maine 98, 98 Ellsworth 152 G Mt Battie 121 emergencies 17 galleries, see museums & Mt Katahdin 186 environment 210-13 Map Pages 000 galleries Portland 57 European exploration Photo Pages Precipice Trail 135, 137 000 206-7 231 Rangeley Lakes 181 highlights 193 Kennebunks, the 86- lobster 10, 20, 38, 152, safety 223 travel seasons 192 94, 88 204-5, 10, 38 historic buildings travel to/from 193 King, Stephen 200-1, 218 festivals 25, 117-18 Bangor Historical insurance 222 Kittery 78-9 lobster buoys 2, 91 Society 200 health 221 lobstering 58, 204-5 Castle Tucker 104 Long Pond 164 travel 222 L INDEX Colburn Shoe 127 internet access 222 Longfellow, Henry La Verna Preserve 98, Wadsworth 56 John Perkins House 159 internet resources 17, 18, 113, 99 loons 213 -Kittery 78 207, 222, 223, 224, 227 lakes  H

Lubec 168-9  M Longfellow House 56 islands 22 Echo Lake 139 lynx 210 Nickels-Sortwell House Bar Island 149 Highland Lake 172 104 Campobello Island 167 Jordan Pond 138 Old Gaol 79-80 Cranberry Isles 153-4 Long Pond 164 M Old Port District 57 Deer Isle 31, 162-4 Knickerbocker Lake 108 Machias Bay 166-8 Portland Observatory Moosehead Lake 184-6 Machias Seal Island 166 56 153-4 Rangeley Lake 14, MacMillan, Donald 194 Remick Barn 80 Isle au Haut 30, 164-6 180-1, 14 Madelyn Marx State House 198-9 Little Cranberry 153-4 172 Preserve 87 Victoria Mansion 55 Machias Seal Island 166 language 16 magazines 223 York Village 79-80 Monhegan Island 14, legal matters 222, 227 Maine Lobster Festival 25, historic sites 207 114-16, 115, 14 Lewiston 215 117-18 Colonial Pemaquid Mount Desert Island Maine River 10 State Historic Site 113 138-54 LGBTIQ+ travelers 222 people 215 Fort Edgecomb State Sears Island 130 Ogunquit 82 markets Historic Site 104 St Croix Island 168 Portland 74 Farmers Market 127 Fort Halifax State Isle au Haut 30, 164-6 libraries Historic Site 195 United Farmers Market Islesboro 123 Blue Hill Public Library McCurdy Smokehouse 154 of Maine 127 Islesford 153-4 Museum 168 Camden Public Library McCloskey, Robert 218 St Croix Island itineraries 26-31, 26, 121 measures 223 27, 28, 29, 30-1, International Historic Main Library (Portland) medical services 221 Site 168 see also individual locations 55 memorials Whaleback Shell Midden Monhegan Memorial Bob Dunning Memorial State Historic Site Library 114 Bridge 172 110-11 J lighthouses 10 Liberty Ship history 206-9 Jackman 197 Bass Harbor Head Light memorial 55 hitchhiking 226 151, 11 Micmac people 215 holidays 223 Nubble Light 80, 90 microbreweries, Homer, Winslow 60, 76 K Head Lighthouse see breweries horseback riding kayaking & canoeing 43-4 117 midcoast Maine 47, 96- Acadia National Park Bar Harbor 145 131, 97 142 Bethel 177 113 accommodations 96 humpback 191 Boothbay Harbor 107 Portland Breakwater chidlren, travel with 33 Light 55 Brooklin 158 climate 96 Portland Head Light Camden 121 food 96 I 54, 2-3 Castine 160 highlights 97 immigrants 215-16 Rockland Breakwater Deer Isle 162 Independence Day 25, Lighthouse 116 hiking 98-9 24, 32 Fryeburg 173 West Quoddy Head tourist information 97 indigenous people 206, Kennebunks, the 89 Lighthouse 168, 21 travel seasons 96 207-8, 214-15 Ogunquit 84 Whaleback Ledge travel to/from 97 inland Maine 48, 192- Pemaquid Point 113 lighthouse 78 Mills, Janet 205 202, 193 tours 58 Linekin & Burley mobile phones 16, 224 Preserves 107 accommodations 192 York Harbor 81 money 16, 17, 222 literature 217-18 climate 192 Kennebunkport 86-94 Monhegan Island 14, 114- food 192 LL Bean 100, 102 16, 115, 14 232 moose 13, 184, 210, 212, John Hancock Wharf Acadia National Park oysters 38-9, 37 227, 211 80, 91 9, 28, 31, 47, 132-44, Damariscotta 110, 111 Moosehead Lake 30, LC Bates Museum 195-6 140-1, 8-9, 11, 21, 35 184-6 Lincoln County Jail Bigelow Preserve 180 motorcycle travel 226-7, Museum 104 Bonyun Preserve 105 P see also car travel Maine Art Hill 87 Cutler Coast Public parks & gardens INDEX INDEX Mount Desert Island Maine Discovery Lands 164 Asticou Azalea Garden 138-54 Museum 200 Dodge Point Preserve 150 mountain biking 43 Maine Historical Society 110 Coastal Maine Botanical M- Museum 56 Fort Foster Park 78 Gardens 108  P Blue Hill Mountain 155 Maine Lighthouse Griggs Preserve 104 Fort Williams Park 54-5  Cadillac Mountain 138 Museum 117 La Verna Preserve 98, Loring Memorial Mt Katahdin 186 Maine Maritime 113, 99 Park 56 Museum 102 museums & galleries 117 Linekin & Burley Pemaquid Lighthouse Maine Mineral Gem Preserves 107 Park 113 Abbe Museum 144 Museum 174-5 Madelyn Marx Pondicherry Park 172 Abbe Museum at Sieur Maine State Museum Preserve 87 de Monts Spring Rangeley Town Cove 198 136, 139 Rachel Carson National Park 180 McCurdy Smokehouse Wildlife Reserve 82-3 Boothbay Railway Rockport Marine Park Museum 168 Village 107 Scarborough 126 Moosehead Marine Audubon Center 93 Brick Store Museum 87 Thuya Garden 150 Museum 184 Sears Island 130 Burnham Tavern 166 Wild Gardens of Acadia Mulholland Gallery 168 Wells National Estuarine 137, 139 Castine Historical Museums of Old York Research Reserve 84 Society 160 people 79-80 Native Americans 206, 214-15 Center for Maine Ogunquit Museum of 207-8, 214-15 Contemporary Art 117 passports 225 American Art 83-4 nature reserves, see Children’s Museum & pay phones 223 Olson House 117 national parks & Theatre of Maine 56 Peary, Robert 194 Peary-MacMillan Arctic nature reserves Colby College Museum Pemaquid Point 113-14 Museum 52, 194 Nervous Nellie’s Jams & of Art 202 12, 12 Penobscot Marine Jellies 162 Edmund S Muskie Museum 130 Newry 179 Penobscot Expedition 208 Visitor Centre 167 Portland Head Light newspapers 223 Penobscot people 214 Emerson-Wilcox House museum 54 people 214-16 79 North Atlantic Blues Portland Museum of Festival 25, 118 Perkins Cove 82 Farnsworth Art Museum Art 56 116-17 North Maine Woods 48, Phippsburg 102 Puffin Project Visitor 182-9, First Families 183 planning, see also Center 117 Kennebunkport accommodations 182 individual regions Museum 87 Rufus Porter Museum children, travel with 33 activities 22, 33-4, 42-5 172 Fisherman’s Museum climate 182 budgeting 17 Seashore Trolley 113 dangers 184 calendar of events 23-5 Museum 87, 34 George Marshall Store children, travel with Tate House Museum 55 food 182 Gallery 80 32-5, 32 University of Maine highlights 183 Great Cranberry Island food 36-41, 221, 222 Historical Society 153 Museum of Art 201 tourist information 184 internet resources 17 High Street Studio & Wendell Gilley Museum travel seasons 182 Gallery 127 151 travel to/from 184 itineraries 26-31, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30-1 Institute of Contempo- Wilson Museum 159 Northeast Harbor 150-1 rary Art 56 Winslow Homer Studio Maine & Acadia National Park basics 16-17 International Museum 60 of Cryptozoology 57 Wyeth Center 117 O Maine & Acadia National Park regions 46-8 Islesford Historical Ogunquit 82-6, 83, 90-1 travel seasons 16, Museum 153 Old Orchard Beach 94-5 23-5, 37 N Old Port Festival 24 plovers 2 national parks & nature opening hours 17, 41, reserves, see also state Poland Spring 53 Map Pages 222-3 000 parks politics 205 Photo Pages otters 212 000 population 204, 205 233 Porter, Rufus 172 Acadia National Park Belfast waterfront 127 Popham Beach State Portland 9, 46, 50-75, 51, 136-7, 136 Percy & Small Shipyard Park 102 54, 62-3, 68, 72, 9 Old Canada Road 194-7, 102 Quoddy Head State accommodations 50, 195 shopping Park 31, 168 60-1 Park Loop Road 136-7, Freeport 100, 102 102-3 activities 57 136 Kittery 78-9 Sebago Lake State rock climbing, see Park 172 INDEX children, travel with 33 Sieur de Monts Spring climbing climate 50 136-7 Umbagog Lake State Rockland 15, 116-21, Park 179 drinking 69-72 15 skiing 43, 44 -Rockport 125-6, 124 Wolfe’s Neck Woods  P entertainment 72-3 Bethel 176, 177  U Roosevelt, Eleanor 167 State Park 100 festivals 60 Rangeley Lakes 181 Roosevelt, Franklin Delano statehood 209 food 50, 61, 64-9 Sugarloaf 180 167 statues gay travelers 74 Skowhegan 196 Russian immigrants 215 Andre the Seal 126 highlights 51 small towns 20-1 Bunyan, Paul 200, 5 smoking 223 internet access 74 Stonington 162-4 snowboarding 44 itineraries 55 S Steedman Woods 79 Sabbathday Lake Shaker snowshoeing, see skiing LGBTIQ+ travelers 74 surfing Village 53 Somes 139 medical services 74 Oqunquit 84 Saco 94-5 southern Maine coast 47, nightlife 69-72 Reid State Park 102-3 safety 223 76-95, 77 Old Port District 57 Sunday River 177 children, travel with 35 accommodations 76 shopping 73-4 Swedish immigrants 216 road 19, 223, 226, 227 children, travel with 33 sights 51, 54-7 swimming 44 sailing 12, 43, 44, see also climate 76 tourist information 74 Acadia National Park boat trips & cruises food 76 tours 58 142 Brooklin 158 travel seasons 50 highlights 77 Camden 121, 122 travel to/from 74-5 tourist information 77 Ogunquit 84 travel within 75 travel seasons 76 T Penobscot Bay 12, 12 telephone services 16, walking tours 58, 59, 59 travel to/from 77-8 Rockland 117 223-4 postal services 223 travel within 78 Scarborough Marsh Thoreau, Henry David 218 public holidays 223 Southwest Harbor 151-3 Audubon Center 93 Thunder Hole 138-9, 190-1 puffins 108, 117, 166, Spotted , Molly 214 Scarborough Marsh time 16, 224 213, 213 Audubon Center 93 springs Tinder Hearth 158 pumpkins 36-7 scenic drives 22, see Poland Spring 53 tipping 222 also road trips 11 toilets 224 Bethel 176 St Croix Island 168 Q tourist information 224 Grafton Notch Scenic St Vincent Millay, Edna 116 Quoddy Head State Park Byway 179, 179 star-gazing 137, 142-3 towns, small 20-1 31, 168 Park Loop Road 141-2 state parks, see also train travel 226, 227 Rangeley Lakes National national parks & transportation 18-19 R Scenic Byway 180 nature reserves travel seasons 17, 37, see also fall foliage Rachel Carson National Schoodic Loop Road 142 Baxter State Park 13, Wildlife Reserve 82-3 scenic flights 43, 187-9, 13 travel to/from Maine & Acadia National Park radio 223 Moosehead Lake 184 Bradbury Mountain State Park 100 225 rafting 43-4 Schoodic Peninsula 142 travel within Maine & Forks, The 197 seals 212-13, 211 99, 121 Acadia National Park North Maine Woods 185 Sears Island 130 Ferry Beach State 226-7 Rangeley 180-1 Searsport 130-1 Park 94 trolley tours Rangeley Lake 14, 180-1, Fort Knox State Park 131 Bath 102 14 172 Grafton Notch State TV 223 ranger programs 142-3 Shakers 53, 198 Park 176, 179 religion 205 Shelburne 174 184 Revolutionary War 208 shipyards Moose Point State U Upton 179 road trips, see also scenic 102, Park 131 drives 103, 209 234 V walking tours travel seasons 170 Witherle Woods 159 Vacationland 209 Portland 58, 59, 59 travel within 172 windjammers vacations 223 walks, see coastal walks, Westport Island 105 Bar Harbor 145 hiking viewpoints whales 212, 191 Camden 121 waterfalls Attean View Overlook whale-watching Rockland 117 Mother Walker Falls 179

INDEX INDEX 197 Bar Harbor 145 Winslow 195 Blue Hill Mountain 155 197, 197 Boothbay Harbor 105 Wiscasset 104-5 Height of Land 180 Screw Auger Falls Kennebunkport 88 Wolastoqiyik people 215 176, 179 V- McKown Hill 105 White, EB 217-18 WoodenBoat School 158 

Z Waterville 195, 202  Penobscot Narrows White Mountain National writers 217-18 Bridge 131 weather 16, 23-5, 223, see Forest 176 also travel seasons, Robbins Hill Scenic white-water rafting, individual regions Area 196 see rafting Y Wells National Estuarine Schoodic Head 142 whoopie pies 41, yoga Research Reserve 84 40 visas 224 Widgery Thomas, William Portland 57, 70 weights 223 216 Yorks, the 79-82, 80 western Maine 48, 170- wi-fi 222 81, 171 Yourcenar, Marguerite 218 W wildlife 34, 210-13 accommodations 170 Wabanaki people 206, wildlife refuges & reserves 208, 214-15 climate 170 Maine Wildlife Park 53 Z Wadsworth Longfellow, food 170 zoos Henry 217 wildlife-watching 43 highlights 171 York’s Wild Kingdom Bar Harbor 145 Waimea Canyon 90-1 tourist information 172 80-1 Walker’s Point 87 Moosehead Lake 184

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 235 NOTES 236 NOTES 237 NOTES MARKO MAMULA

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport /Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the moun- tains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Adam Karlin Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archaeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have fea- tured in the BBC, NPR and multiple nonfiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn more at http:// walkonfine.com or follow on Instagram @adamwalkonfine.

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