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Central Coast Grand Tour tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 130 WT: CA Coast grand tour grid ver PF: 03 page gr 2 E ZO: AZ 130 Caption to come that acts as a point of entry for our read- ers. Caption to come that acts as a point of entry for our read- ers. 130 SUNSET SEPTEMBER 2005 tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 131 d tour WT: CA Coast grand tour page grid ver PF: 03 page 130 2 E ZO: AZ 131 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez Valley, Big Sur: Waves A Central Coast road trip makes a vintage romantic getaway and Wine Sunset at the beach: the staple of personal ads, romance nov- els, and Playmate turn-ons. Thee and me and we. The biggest of all California clichés. But trust me—as sunsets go, this is an epic, a masterpiece. As if van Gogh had decided to work in Cinerama. We’re at Oso Flaco Lake, on California’s Central Coast. My wife, Becky, has never been to this spot, so I wanted to show her Sthe lake and, beyond it, a beach with churning, restless surf. BY MATTHEW JAFFE g PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ZAITZ tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 132 WT: CA Coast grand tour grid ver PF: 03 page grid 2 E ZO: AZ 132 2 Glimpses of a golden coast (clockwise from top left): Santa Bar- bara’s shore- line; the Four Seasons Resort; tast- ing at Foxen Vineyard & Winery; Foxen vintage; vine- yards near Inn at the Pinna- cles; Foxen winery sign; La Super-Rica. 132 SUNSET SEPTEMBER 2005 tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 133 nd tour WT: CA Coast grand tour page grid ver PF: 03 page 132 2 E ZO: AZ 133 We follow the boardwalk along the lake and then through the shifting dunes. The day has been overcast, but the sands begin to brighten to gold. By the time we reach the ocean, the set- ting sun has emerged beneath the layer of clouds along the horizon. Every- thing—ocean, dunes, underside of clouds—is suddenly on fire with spin- ning oranges and reds and purples. Even though we’ve both lived in California for a while now, Becky remains a genuine Jersey girl at heart, and I’m still a Chicago guy. Neither of us has ever seen a sunset quite like this. But while we’re astounded, we’re not entirely surprised. Because when we began our 670-mile round-trip drive through the Central Coast’s wine regions and along its incompara- ble coastline, we were venturing into the California of our dreams. z2 DAYS, 30 MILES Santa Barbara to Santa Ynez Valley In my mind, Santa Barbara is Califor- nia: Mediterranean architecture, palm trees, the beach, and islands veiled in mist. (Chicago winters will do that to you.) But it’s a city that has always remained just out of reach. I’ve lived an hour to the northwest and now live an hour to the east, but never in Santa Barbara itself. We splurge with a night at the Four Seasons Resort. It’s Santa Barbara con- densed, all ocean and gardens, arch- ways and decorative tile, trailing bougainvillea and rambling Moreton Bay figs. The mood here is decidedly relaxed, especially compared to posh oceanfront spots in other beach cities that have an almost white-gloved fussi- ness about them. This too seems to be a reflection of Santa Barbara, where the surf vibe and sea breeze seem to chill out loftier pretensions. Santa Bar- bara is a city that reveres not just its Dons but its dudes too. In that spirit, we eschew some of the fancier dinner spots in town for one of the best. La Super-Rica is really SEPTEMBER 2005 SUNSET 133 tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 134 WT: CA Coast grand tour grid ver PF: 03 page grid 2 E ZO: AZ 134 2 a glorified taco stand, with a zigzag least opulent and most un-faux- roofline and a covered patio. But what finished spots. Near Los Olivos, Foxen it lacks in decor it makes up for in Winery’s tasting room is little more authenticity, from its handmade than a tin shack, while Garretson tortillas to fire-roasted pasilla peppers Wine Company up in Paso Robles stuffed with cheese. is located in a generic, hard-to-reach With its long lines, La Super-Rica industrial center better suited to a demands some strategizing. The patrons plumbing-supply business. It’s sym- in line ahead of us are weighing their bolic of how the wine industry has choices with the solemnity of the con- become engrained in the life of the demned choosing a last meal. Becky, a Central Coast. In Los Angeles, every much nicer person than I, senses my young dreamer is an aspiring screen- escalating impatience. She gives me a writer. Here the dream is to create sweet but firm “Be nice” look as I feel great wines, with waiters, store clerks, the declamation “Holy pozole, just and winery employees all eager to talk make a choice!” rising about their vines. Road food up from the molten core With our tastings done, I cleanse g Café Quacken- K of my being. But it only my palate with a full-bodied and slight- bush. Gourmet sandwiches and art takes one bite of my ly assertive root beer from the 21st gallery just off U.S. taco to make me a Street Drive-In in Paso Robles. Mis- 101. $; lunch Tue– contented man. souri may be the Show-Me State, but Sun,C breakfast Sat– Sun. 458 Bell St., California is the What-If State. And as Los Alamos; 805/ z2 DAYS, 170 MILES Becky and I drive past rows of vines 344-5181. exaggerating the contours of the A Santa Ynez Valley g Fiala’s Gourmet rolling hills, we ponder the possibilities Deli, Espresso Bar to Pinnacles N.M. & Chocolatier. Ital- of a life in wine country. ian deli with out- Let the Sideways back- It’s the life that Jan and Jon standingN panini lash begin! Brosseau have been building with their sandwiches in Edna Valley wine country. I issue this fatwa not own hands since they bought land $; 8–5 daily.1653 out of any dislike for here in 1978. They’re the owners of S Old Price Canyon last year’s best movie. the Inn at the Pinnacles, a Monterey Rd., San Luis Obis- po; 805/543-1313. But having watched the County bed-and-breakfast set in the g Taco Temple. A Santa Ynez Valley’s middle of acres of Pinot Noir, Syrah, great spot for fish emergence from languid and Chardonnay grapes. During the tacos, hidden on a ranchland into a top week, Jon works in aerospace in the State 1 frontage road. $; lunch and wine region over the Bay Area, then the couple loads up dinner Wed–Mon. past few decades, it was their car with provisions and heads to 2680 Main St., a shock to suddenly see the inn for the weekend. Their proper- Morro Bay; 805/ 772-4965. favorite haunts on the ty sits adjacent to the historic Chalone big screen. Think of it Vineyard and a few miles from Pinna- this way: You live in the Amazon rain cles National Monument, the land- forest and Angelina Jolie or Sting visits mark volcanic outcrops that Becky and your village. You appreciate the atten- I are eager to explore. tion but also know that things will nev- Roughly 36 million people live in er quite be the same again. California, but we’re the only 2 at Pin- The joy of the Santa Ynez Valley and nacles. And for good reason. Just as its fellow Central Coast wine regions Becky steps out, the threatening skies has always been their blend of kick- stop their threatening and deliver the back vibe and knockout wines. These goods. The rock formations disappear are places to discover wines without behind a curtain of rain and fog. The being intimidated by adjective-spouting rain goes all Ringo on the roof and we pedants. Terroir without terror. listen to the pounding while scanning Maybe it’s just a coincidence, but the skies for the slightest hint of blue. our favorite wines come from the Finally we give up and opt for—what 134 SUNSET SEPTEMBER 2005 tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 135 nd tour WT: CA Coast grand tour page grid ver PF: 05 page 134 2 E ZO: AZ 135 The sweet life (clockwise from top): 21st Street Drive-In in Paso Robles; Cannery Row; Ed Ricketts’s Lab; Carmel City Beach; Pinnacles National Monument. SEPTEMBER 2005 SUNSET 135 tmj0905c_CoastalGrandTour.qxp 7/29/05 5:32 PM Page 136 WT: CA Coast grand tour grid ver PF: 05 page grid 2 E ZO: AZ 136 2 dinner daily. On State 1 at Henry Miller Memorial Pinnacles National Monu- Pheneger Creek; www.big Library. Gallery with con- ment. Dramatic volcanic to San 33 5 The road trip surriverinn.com or 800/ certs, lectures, and other outcrops and even Califor- Francisco 101 CONTACTS 548-3610. events. 11–6 Thu–Sun; nia condors. $5 per vehicle. Merced 17 140 g Monterey County visitors bureau Big Sur Roadhouse. Cal- free. On State 1, Big Sur; From U.S. 101 in Soledad, 1 (www.montereyinfo.org or 888/221-1010) Latin fusion cuisine with www.henrymiller.org or take State 146 12 miles Gilroy 831/667-2574.
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