Saturday 14 September / Sunday 15 September 2019

London Design Festival The triumphant return of PoMo — EDWINHEATHCOTE PAGES 12 & 13

Follow us on Instagram @ft_houseandhome The home of prime property:The propertylistings.ft.com best homes for cyclistsFollow us on Twitter @FTProperty

Property | Where can keen cyclists find holiday homes that offer the best terrain, facilities and adventure? Liz Rowlinson reports on the European hotspots

Girona,Spain Mallorca may be the obvious Spanish cycling hub, but the small city of Girona is home to more than 100 professional cyclists — and a growing number of international homeowners. Close to the French border, Barcelona, the Costa Brava and the big climbs of the Pyrenees, it sits within verdant volcanic valleys known as the “Tuscany ofSpain”. The city was top choice for Louise Laker, a former racer, when she left London to set up a cycling touring business. “Girona is a great mix of flat roads and mountains, with a friendly community of retired professional cyclists,”shesays. ThesophisticatedCatalancultureand quality of life attracted Ashleigh Mool- man Pasio, the South African profes- sional racer, and her triathlete husband Carltotheregion,ratherthanoptingfor abaseintheItalianlakes. “This area is super-special and incredible for training,” says the 33- year-old, who is preparing to take part in the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games. “Where else in Europe can you cycle for Ashleigh Moolman Pasio and her husband Carl — Oliver Grenaa five hours and not see another person?” Her family runs a cycling retreat in a renovatedmasia(farmhouse)nearBan- negotiations are under way to bring cottage. For larger parties, in the small Her holiday accommodation, gîte yoles lake and Rocacorba, one of the the starts of the Vuelta a España and hamlet of Smelthouses close to Pateley Belle Vie, is in Sainte-Marie-de- area’sbestclimbs. Tour de France to the area in the next Bridge is a four-bedroom detached Campan, a small Pyrenean village that Rural masia are popular with British sixyears. formerropemillavailablefor£800,000 marks the start of the 17.2km climb and American second home buyers. Theregionissoontoberepresentedat throughDacre,Son&Hartley. to Col d’Tourmalet, the highest Expect to pay at least €1.5m for a reno- the world governing body, the Union paved mountain pass in the French Pyr- vated home with a pool, says Marisa Cycliste Internationale’sEuropean tour, Pyrenees,France enees. Bagnères-de-Bigorre, Argelès- Featherwick of agent Lucas Fox. “But says Kate Horsfall, founder of York- The region may be less prestigious than Gazost, Payolle, Saint-Savin, Trébons pricesdropwestofGirona.”Theagentis shire’sfirstall-women’scyclingclub,the the Alps for luxury chalets, but the Pyr- and Aspin are also popular with selling a six-bedroom villa near Ban- Yorkshire Lasses. “Since 2014 we’ve eneescanrunagoodracewhenitcomes cyclists, says Juliet Browning of agent yolesfor€875,000. seenbikeshopsandcyclingclubsprolif- toTourdeFrancehistory. LeggettImmobilier. Somecyclistsprefertoliveinthecity’s erate, and Pateley Bridge is often Le Tour first ventured into the moun- “Consider villages south of the A64, historic centre, where the average price included in the top 100 climbs in tain range in 1910, with back-to-back witheasyaccessviaTarbes—Lourdes— per sq m is €3,500,according to Spanish Europe,”she says. “It’sonly the weather stages so tough that the overall winner, Pyrénées Airport,”she says, where Lon- propertysiteIdealista. thatletsusdown.” Octave Lapize, described the organisers doners or Parisians with a spare Edward Stoyle, head of the York as “murderers”.Since then, climbs such €200,000 to €300,000 will be able to Yorkshire,UK office for estate agent Carter Jonas, took as the Tourmalet, Aubisque and Peyre- buyathree-bedroomholidayhome. Home to the wild and dramatic York- up cycling when he moved to Harrogate sourde have gained legendary status The historic spa town of Bagnères-de- shire Dales and the North York Moors in North Yorkshire. “Ten years ago eve- because of their brutal gradients and Luchon enjoys a higher international national parks, Yorkshire is the natural ryone played golf here — now they switchbacksthatprovide,longgruelling profile and offers a six-bedroom chalet home of British cycling. This month cycle,” he says. “Cycling has just ascentsandwilddescents. for€419,000. the region will host the UCI Road World enhancedtheattractionofowningasec- Many cycling tourists go on to buy Championships. A combination of ondhome,butisnotquitethesolemoti- homes, says Angela Craig who runs a Tuscany,Italy unforgiving hills, such as Park Rash, vation—yet.” cycling business from the base of Col du Cyclists in search of culture choose and undulating dales are criss-crossed North Yorkshire is easy to reach from Tourmalet in the Campan valley: “This Tuscany, and there is no better way to by empty lanes and minor roads four international airports, and Stoyle valley offers a double season, with explore medieval hilltop villages — and bordered by dry stone walls. Rural says North York Moors villages close cycling and hiking in the summer sea- workoffplatesofpasta—thanbybike. villages are lined with welcoming pubs to the A170 (arterial road access is key) son of April to November, and skiing in Chianti’s small mountain range is andcafés. are popular, such as pretty Hutton-le- thewinter. ideal training terrain and forms a gruel- Cycling interest has taken off since Hole, or in the Yorkshire Dales, villages “There is a large English-speaking ling stage in the Giro d’Italia race, and 2014 when the county hosted the and towns such as Swaledale, Coverdale community, with people coming from thereareplentyofbikerepairshopsand Grand Départ of the Tour de France. andSkipton. South Africa too. Property is generally enoteca. The village of Quarrata is the The Tour de Yorkshire takes place Expect to pay £400,000 to £500,000 (Top) Luz Ardiden, Hautes-Pyrénées, France; (above) Yorkshire inexpensive, so some buy chalets or old every May and local media report that for a three or four-bedroom period Dales, England — YG-Tavel-Photos/Alamy barnsandrenovatethem,”saysCraig. Continuedonpage2 2 ★ FTWeekend 14 September/15 September 2019 House Home

I want to buy my daughter an mid-century designs with those from I am eyeing up an elegant rosewood the Italian designer Paola Buffa. Buffa, Something old, antique or vintage item for her other decades: a modernist rosewood desk designed by Kurt Ostervig for along with French designer Jean wedding present. My budget is lavish, desk with a painted Regency chair Jason, Denmark — yours for £7,250. Royère, is known for playful details. but I don’t know where to start. Can beneath an ornate gilt mirror, say. As According to the retailer, it is one of the It could be worth investing in a piece something new you help? She hankers after mid- ever, it really is all about the mix. most sought-after Scandinavian desks by a celebrated designer. US site century interiors. So where to shop for your sensational of the period and with those legs I quite 1stdibs, which sells from shops present? And what kind of item to go understand why. Those sterile internationally, is another great place A brilliant and generous idea. The for? London’s largest showroom A sideboard or cabinet is another to search for presents. A seller in New trend for mid-century modern dedicated to fine Scandinavian design, idea. I am a regular customer at Mark silhouettes often York has a lovely cherrywood console furniture and interiors has been The Modern Warehouse, is in Hackney Punton’s Battersea-based Ebury leave me cold. table with scalloped detailing, designed around for a while, but I wager the Wick. Its showroom displays a large Trading. In his warehouse and on his in the early 1940s by Gio Ponti, one of fashion is here to stay. I am not so keen and constantly changing collection of website antique lighting can be found I crave curves, the most influential figures in 20th- on the full Mad Men look, but the odd modernist vintage furniture, lighting next to furniture and decorative pieces wiggles and frills century Italian modernism. Another sensational and authentic piece adds and accessories produced by the best from the 18th century through to mid- good site is Pamono.co.uk. Look out for glittering magic. architects and designers from the century design. Proving that mid- validation — the 1stdibs console, for You will have noticed mid-century golden age of design in Scandinavia. century does not always mean sensible example, has been authenticated by style knock-offs in almost every Your present should feel substantial wood and sober shapes, the last time I the Gio Ponti Archives. interior design store for a decade or so. and solid, so I like the idea of a desk. visited I fell in love with an outrageous My dream piece of mid-century Why is this furniture so enduringly 1950s Italian bar cabinet in pink furniture? Something grand by Piero appealing? For one, its paired-back lacquer with faux malachite panels Fornasetti. Macclesfield-based Holly simplicity works well in a variety of (pictured left). I am generally more Johnson Antiques specialises in pieces interiors. Stick a sideboard with the Italian mid-century than by the famed Milanese designer; it faintest trace of mid-century Scandinavian. All those straight currently has a lithographically printed styling in a modern apartment or a lines and sterile silhouettes often Architettura cabinet with brass stand, Victorian house and it will go with leave me cold. I crave curves, made circa 1960 that, quite frankly, I whatever else is going on, because wiggles and frills. would trade a kidney for. Luke Edward Hall the aesthetic is casual and relaxed. Mark is also selling an After all, the originals were designed architectural bar cabinet in the most Luke answers readers’ questions on design to be easy to live with. gorgeous shade of lipsticky-scarlet and stylish living every week. Email him at Readers’ questions But the mid-century look can lacquer (honestly, you could lacquer a [email protected] and follow him feel stale. To avoid this, I mix wooden spoon and I would love it) by on Instagram @lukeedwardhall

Inside

—

StIves Sintnicolaas who sold his titanium Clampdownonsecondhome cycle manufacturing business in buyersmisfires Cyclists’ Holland to set one up in Pollensa, called HOTPROPERY Page4 JGuillem. “Distances here are not super-long, homes unlike the Alps where you can spend all HOMESFOR day climbing up one mountain, and CYCLISTS Continuedfrompage1 there a plenty of coffee stops, or other pocketsofinterest,”hesays. European base of British cycling and is Pollensa is the perfect base because home for the 2019 Tour de France it is close to the mountains and is runner-upGeraintThomas. the starting point of some good A recent trend for gravel bikes rides: Puig Major, Formentor, Sa Calo- (a cross between mountain and road bra or the Orient valley — much of bikes) has made the “white gravel which is covered in the island’s main roads” of the annual Strada Bianche cycling event, the Mallorca 312 (km), race popular. It starts and finishes saysGuillem. Architecture inSiena. Sintnicolaas is selling his five- WhattoseeonLondon’sOpen Londoner Bob McNaughton became Cycling in Lucca — Beatrice Speranza/Chronoplus bedroom townhouse in Pollensa for Houseweekend obsessed with cycling after buying a €1.2m to build a house nearby. Town- B L’Alzina Villas, Catalonia, Spain, €1.1m Page6 second home near Siena. “It’s a stun- houses in Pollensa old town start at ningly beautiful area with great quality About 200 hotels across the island about €350,000, according to Gary Where The town of Caldes de Malavella, 20km from quiet roads and reliable weather,” he specialise in catering for cyclists, Hobson of agent Engel & Völkers: “But Girona. Girona-Costa Brava airport is 10 minutes away. What A three-bedroom modernist villa in the PGA says. “You can ride your bike all year according to the Mallorca Hotels nearby Puerto Pollensa — where Team Catalunya resort, facing hole three of the golf course. withoutgettingapuncture.Ihavetaken Federation, but some dedicated to the Sky had a training camp for years and Why The Rococorba cycling climb is 35km away. a bike around the world — and Tuscany sport prefer to buy their own base, many pro riders including Bradley Wig- Who PGA Catalunya, pgacatalunya.com, isstilltopofmylist.” such as Rotterdam-born Jan-Willem ginsownproperties—isalsopopular.”A tel +34 972 472 957 McNaughton’s five-bedroom estate two-bedroom apartment with lift costs is now for sale for €1.75m through around€250.000. Savills. Farmhouses usually start at Or buyers might consider the hilly about €750,000 but Savills also has a area of Campanet where a villa with restoredfour-bedroomvillanearRadda Ride like Laura Kenny garageandpoolcostsabout€550,000. for€650,000. London Lucca is another cycling hub — like The Olympic gold medallist and GB Alped’Huez,France Siena and Chianti, easily reached from track and road cyclist casts her vote to Cyclists train all year to tackle the DesignFestival Pisa and Florence international air- Mallorca for training abroad: “It mountains,andAlped’Huezisamagnet ports.Itishometoformerprofessionals, delivers on everything: the great with the 21 gruelling hairpins of its Thebestinshow including Italy’s Mario Cipollini. weather means you can get early famousTourdeFranceclimb. Pages8&9 “With the Versilia coastline and the starts, it’s very cycling-friendly and it’s Like the Pyrenees, it offers dual- B Harprigg Hall Farm, Yorkshire, England, £1.3m Abetone and Garfagnana mountains a good mix of climbs and flats. season holiday homes, says Victoria Thereturnofpostmodernism close by, there are over 50 rides, “The key to my training is more Blacker of agent Leggett Immobilier: Where The hamlet of Killington, 70 miles from Leeds. with must-do routes including Monte “The majority of buyers are either Teeside airport is an hour and a half away. Pages12&13 ‘efforts’ than overall distance, so I will What A five-bedroom farmhouse on 12 acres. Serra, Pizzorne, Fiano and Passo do blocks of one or two hours’ high- cyclists who like to ski a little, or skiers Why Harprigg offers access to the Yorkshire Dales Shinyandnew:likinglacquer Sella,” says Gabriel Mirra of touring intensity work, then take a break. who like to cycle a little. Some people Cycleway, a 130-mile loop covering the national park. Page14 companyChronoplus.“Thehillsaround Mallorca is perfect as you are only ever comeoutwithskisandbikes,”shesays. Who Fine & Country, fineandcountry.com, Lucca, Pieve Santo Stefano, Valgiano, 30 minutes from a town so you can “Aslongastheroadisclearedofsnow, tel +44 207 079 1515 Uraniumglasscastsaglow Gattaiola, Mutigliano and Matraia are drop anchor and have a coffee.” cyclists will make the most of the route Page16 beautiful areas to own a villa.” says Although Kenny trains six days a from Bourg-d’Oisans up to Alpe Mirra. According to Gemma Bruce of week when she is in the UK, she still d’Huez,”sheadds. agent Casa & Country, a restored farm- rides for pleasure with her husband, Blacker suggests the best places for Ceramics house with views and a pool costs fellow Olympic champion Jason Kenny, cyclists to buy is at the foot of the Potteryfortheparlour around €2m. “Or for €3m- plus, one of and their son, Albie, in the area around valley, offering them plenty of options Page16 themagnificentLucchesemansions.” her home in Cheshire. “It’s a good mix of where to start their cycle route of flats and hills, with quiet roads and of the day, be it the 21 Virages or the Mallorca,Spain the beautiful Peak District close by. Col du Sarenne via Les Balcons Gardens With its Mediterranean climate, count- “I’ve also spent time around the Lee d’Auris. It is a 90-minute transfer from Whyheritagegreenhousesare less flights and 1,250km of cycling Valley VeloPark, east London, closer to Grenoble airport. Currently for sale in pronetofallintodisrepair routes whizzing around the breath- where my family are from. One of my theroad-cyclingtownofBourg-d’Oisans B San Demetrio, Tuscany, Italy, €1.75m Pages18&19 taking Sierra Tramuntana mountains, goals is to do the big climbs of the is a chalet divided into seven apart- Mallorca has become the go-to jaunt for Tour de France, but I haven’t managed ments — an ideal rental investment Where The village of Castelnuovo Berardenga, 25km from Siena. Siena airport is an hour and a half away. manyUKcyclingclubs. to fit them in yet.” property—for€1.3m. RobinLaneFox What A five-bedroom main house and three Various estimates, including that Properties cost between €2,000 per unrestored annexes. InpraiseofMarx—RobertoBurle of the Balearic Cycling Federation, Laura Kenny is training for the sq m for a house in either Bourg- Why Located in the Tuscan hills and its cycling trails, Marx,thatis suggest that 200,000 cycling tourists European Championships and the d’Oisans or La Garde-en-Oisans, a cyclists can cool off in the pool after their ride. Page20 visit Mallorca every year, mainly from Tokyo Olympics in 2020 smaller village also on the road up to Who Savills, savills.com, tel +44 207 016 3740 the UK, Germany, Switzerland and LR Alpe d’Huez, where prices rise from Ido Vock theNetherlands. €2,500to€7,000persqm.

Quoted: The very best of the FT Weekend Festival 2019 This is what This is what This is what This is what ‘Colour is ‘One of the all you non all you non all you non all you non joyful — biggest FT readers FT readers FT readers FT readers colour gardening missed. missed. missed. missed. makes me myths is the Working Working Working Working happy’ idea of quote set quote set quote set quote set native here as here as here as here as Luke species’ shown here shown here shown here shown here Edward Hall Robin Lane upper lower upper lower upper lower upper lower Fox

Don’t miss FTWeekend Festival 2020 More than 4,000 readers joined us in London last weekend — and we will be back next September. FT subscribers can receive early details of FT Weekend Festival 2020 by signing up to House & Home Unlocked, our property market newsletter. Go to ft.com/newsletters