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THE WORLD SURF LEAGUE ◀ AIR FORCE “In the moment, I’m not thinking about being scared,” 25-year-old Californian Kolohe Andino says. “Just executing the rotation, or grab, or big straight air as clean as possible. But a heavy landing in a really critical section can cause a really serious injury. We’ve seen it a lot.” ▶ NEXT-GEN COOL Thirty-one-year-old Australian veteran Stephanie Gilmore (left) and 17-year-old American Caroline Marks during an evening free surf. “Stephanie is so down-to-earth and funny,” says 2018 Rookie of the Year Marks. “You’d never know that she’s a seven-time champ. When she puts the jersey on, though, she’s, like, superserious.” ◀ THE G.O.A.T. Eleven-time world champion Kelly Slater is eliminated in round four and contemplates his future in the sport. “In my early twenties, I went through some personal stuff that was really tough,” the 47-year-old says. “My life’s not that way now. It’s easier when you feel like you have nothing and have to earn something. You put all those eggs in one basket — [surfing] — and it hyperfocuses you. Sometimes I feel like I need that again.” MAKING ◀ GO TIME “More than anywhere else he chillest sport is getting serious. As surfers prepare to in the world, the energy WAVES make a splash at the competition’s debut in the 2020 Olym- and passion around T pics, athletes known for their cool are fighting for position. surfing in Brazil makes Only the top two men and top two women from each country competing there really will qualify for the Tokyo games — and the ranking shifts with feel like competing,” each meet. To make the cut, members of the World Surf League ride the line says 26-six-year-old Ahead of surfing’s 2020 Olympic debut, John John Florence, who between ocean and sky, unleashing acrobatic feats increasingly tested in the was sidelined with an the boarders of the World Surf League hit tubular perfection of artificial wave pools, a new training technol ogy. As surf- ACL rupture during the ing has gone mainstream, it’s extended beyond traditional centers of power competition. “In Brazil, Brazil, where the only thing bigger than — Hawaii, California, Australia’s Gold Coast — to Brazil. A new generation of there’s all this energy on talent has been lured by the country’s warm waters and beach breaks, surf- the beach. But as soon ing with more speed, greater athleticism, and bigger air. “Over the last three as I jump in the water, I the swells is the audience BY JESSE WILL don’t even hear the [noise] years, we’ve watched Brazil become the best surfing nation,” says WSL exec- anymore. It’s just quiet.” utive (and legendary surfer) Pat O’Connell. “It’s a different type of surfing, a PHOTOGRAPHS BY less traditional take. Very acrobatic.” All of these factors converged this June at the Oi Rio Pro competition, where 149,000 spectators mobbed the sands SAMUEL TROTTER AND GRIFFIN LOTZ of Saquarema to watch elite riders tear through swells over four days. Roll- ing Stone was there to cover the action, in and out of the water. GUTTER PHOTO CREDIT 64 | Rolling Stone | October 2019 65 MAKING WAVES ◀ POINT BROKEN Florence was ranked number one in the world ahead of Rio. While attempting a flyaway on a breaking wave during a heat, he sustained the injury that ended his 2019 season. Florence is already recovering from surgery and training for 2020. “I think all of my injuries have weirdly been the best things that have happened to my surfing,” he says. “Once you really settle into it, you get an outside perspective. You think, ‘OK. What are my goals now? Why am I here? Why am I doing this?’ ” “IT’S THE ▲ HOLY WAVE BIGGEST Tens of thousands of spectators cover the white sands CROWD of Saquarema during the four-day contest. International surfers have been making a pilgrimage to its two breaks I’VE EVER — among Brazil’s best — since the 1960s. Predating those board riders by more than a century: Our Lady SURFED of Nazareth Church, completed in 1837. IN FRONT ▶ THE NATURAL OF IN MY Twenty-eight-year-old Hawaiian Coco Ho first surfed at seven for fun; since joining the tour 10 years ago, she’s WHOLE retained her relaxed passion for the sport. “I was born into a surfing family, and we surf because we love it,” LIFE.” Ho says. “We won’t surf for any other reason. Whenever I go in the water, I’m trying to surf to win, but I don’t KOLOHE ANDINO put crazy pressure on myself.” ◀ CATCHING AIR Sally Fitzgibbons defeated ◀ CAPTURE THE FLAG ▲ CROWD CRUSH Carissa Moore in the women’s After a pyrotechnic display of aerials Young fans wait for their favorite surf final. “To try to read the ocean, in the men’s final versus Jordy Smith, stars. “I first came to this event 10 years you get lost in the moment out Brazilian Filipe Toledo clinched the ago, and even though there was no there,” the 28-year-old Australian hometown victory. “When you start Instagram, people knew your name [in says. “The ocean fully occupies pumping to go through a turn here, Rio],” says Ho. “You feel like a rock star your senses. But in Brazil, for everybody is quiet, waiting,” Toledo there compared to everywhere else.” some reason, I could feel the says. “And as soon as you land, intense energy [of the crowd] [the beach sounds] like a stadium. almost heating my back.” It’s mayhem.” GUTTER PHOTO CREDIT October 2019 | Rolling Stone | 67 THE WORLD SURF LEAGUE ◀ A MOMENT OF ZEN “He’s one of the strongest surfers in history, and just the most competitive beast,” says the WSL’s O’Connell of 25-year-old Gabriel Medina. “He’s a little bit New Age. The Brazilians bring a different focus.” ▲ HITTING THE BOOKS ▼ SAYING OLÁ Florence’s strategy for A young fan shows his staying sharp: fiction. “I “shakas.” “Most of the was reading a book called people don’t speak Name of the Wind,” he says, English, but they’ll pick name-checking a Patrick their favorite surfer and Rothfuss fantasy novel set yell your name as you run in the fictional world of through the crowd,” says Temerant. “It can take your Fitzgibbons. “Surfing mind out of where you are.” is a world language.” ▲ AFTER HOURS ▼ BALLING ▶ THE SOUND OF VICTORY When Gilmore puts The soundtrack of her board away for the beach is altinha Twenty-four-year-old the day, she picks — volleying a soccer Toledo clinched his up a camera and ball — which involves second Oi Rio Pro becomes a tourist. athletic skill even victory in a row “What we call ‘work’ beyond that of some after a rough year. is most people’s professional surfers. “I was going through holiday,” she says. “I found out I’m so some hard times “I don’t speak uncoordinated,” in my personal life,” Portuguese. The best says Carissa Moore, Toledo says. “This is communicating a 27-year-old from felt supernatural, through smiling.” Hawaii. you know?” ▶ HAPPY HOUR “The level on tour is higher than it’s ever been,” says Californian Conner Coffin. (One way Coffin relaxes is kicking back with a post-competition beer.) “The airs and combinations are really exciting,” the 26-year-old says. “And when we surf the bigger, amazingly beautiful hollow waves — where there’s some carnage — it’s unlike any other sport.” GUTTER PHOTO CREDIT 68 | Rolling Stone | October 2019 March 2018 | Rolling Stone | 69 MAKING WAVES ▲ HAPPY WARRIOR ▲ HANG 20 “At my first victory, in 2010,” 29-year-old hometown hero Jadson Andre says, “people were crying on the In Brazil, surfing isn’t just for bipeds. This dog beach — a Brazilian hadn’t won in Brazil in a decade.” shreds a whitewater wave with excellent form. ▶ KING OF BRAZIL “We have only this one event in Brazil, so everyone gets to watch and support us,” Medina says of his home country. “It feels ▲ GOING SOLO really good to feel the love. I get to see my family and friends rooting for me — “When I’m actually riding the wave, everything kind of disappears,” three-time it’s a big one.” champion Moore says. “It’s like time stands still for a little bit. That’s why I love surfing in the ocean — it’s just you and the elements.” ▼ DAWN-TO-DUSK PATROL Young fans crowd into a rare patch of shade during the contest. “They come to the beach superearly in the morning and stay all day long,” says Gilmore. “As a surfer, you get such a thrill out of [seeing them].” ▲ BREAKING THROUGH “I never expected equal pay for men and women to ▲ FOOT TRAFFIC happen in my day,” When the World Surf League comes to town, says 23-year-old all roads lead to the beach. Brazilian Tatiana Weston-Webb of ◀ SCOREBOARD the World Surf “Anyone who says the Olympics League employing isn’t on the forefront of their ▶ THE MENTAL GAME pay parity for the mind is probably lying,” says Since debuting on tour in 2010, Moore has 36 men and 18 25-year-old Californian Lakey developed a more fluid style in the water. women on the tour. Peterson — out of the seven The second-place finisher says, “I feel more “It means a great American women competing in confident in the line that I’m drawing [with the deal.

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