64 SAMUEL TROTTER AND GRIFFIN LOTZ GRIFFIN AND TROTTER SAMUEL BY PHOTOGRAPHS THE the swells the is audience whereBrazil, bigger than the only thing the boarders of the World hit League Surf Ahead of ’s 2020 Olympic debut,

WAVES MAKING | Rolling Stone Stone Rolling | October 2019 October BY JESSE WILL BY JESSE T ing Stone was there to cover inandout ofthewater. theaction, of Saquarema to watch elite tear through riders swells over four days. at theOiRioPro competition, where 149,000 mobbedthesands spectators traditionalless take. Very acro­ utive (and legendary­ years, we’ve watched ­ ing with more speed, greater and bigger air. athleticism, “Over the last three hasbeenluredtalent by thecountry’s warm waters breaks, andbeach surf — , , ’s — Coast Gold ing hasgone mainstream, it’s extended beyond traditional centers ofpower wave of artificial tubular perfection pools, a newtraining technol­ andsky, ocean between unleashing acrobatic feats ­ To meet. each make membersofthe World thecut, theline ride Surf League

will qualify for theTokyowill qualify —andtheranking games shifts with Only women menandtop thetoptwo two from country each athletes knownpics, for theircoolare fighting for position. make asplash at thecompetition’s debutinthe2020 Olym- sport he chillest surfer) Pat ­ become the best surfingbecome thebest nation,” says WSL exec- batic.” converged factors All of these June this O’Connell. “It’stype ofa adifferentsurfing, is gettingis surfers serious. As prepare to to Brazil. Anew generation of increasingly tested inthe ogy. surf As Roll - - -

GUTTER PHOTO CREDIT you. Ifeel Sometimes like Ineedthatagain.” eggs inonebasket —[surfing]andithyperfocuses nothing andhave something.You toearn putallthose not thatway now. It’s whenyou easier feel like you have that was really tough,” the47-year-old says. “Mylife’s my twenties, early Iwent through somepersonal stuff round four hisfuture andcontemplates “In inthesport. Eleven-time world championKelly Slateriseliminatedin G.O.A.T. ◀ THE jersey on,though,she’s, like, superserious.” know thatshe’s aseven-time champ. Whensheputsthe funny,” says 2018 Rookie oftheYear Marks. “You’d never evening free surf. “Stephanie issodown-to-earth and and17-year-old(left) AmericanCaroline Marks duringan Thirty-one-year-old Australian veteran StephanieGilmore ▶ NEXT-GEN COOL anymore. It’s justquiet.” don’t even the[noise] hear as Ijumpinthewater, I Butassoon the beach. there’s allthisenergy on competition. “InBrazil, ACL rupture duringthe was sidelinedwithan John Florence, who says 26-six-year-old feel like competing,” competing there really inBrazil makessurfing and passionaround in theworld, theenergy “More thananywhere else ◀ GO TIME seen italot.” serious injury. We’ve can causeareally really criticalsection a heavy landingina aspossible.clean But big straight airas rotation, orgrab, or “Just executing the Kolohe Andinosays. 25-year-old Californian about beingscared,” I’m notthinking “In themoment, ◀ AIR FORCE 65 put crazypressure onmyself.” I gointhewater, I’m towin,butIdon’t tosurf trying Ho says. “We won’t for surf any otherreason. Whenever family,into asurfing andwe becausewe surf love it,” retained herrelaxed passionfor “Iwas thesport. born seven for fun;sincejoiningthetour10years ago, she’s Twenty-eight-year-old Hawaiian CocoHofirst surfed at ▶ THE NATURAL of Nazareth Church, completedin1837. those board riders by more thanacentury: OurLady — among Brazil’s — sincethe1960s. best Predating surfers have beenmakingapilgrimagetoitstwo breaks of Saquarema duringthefour-day International contest. Tens ofthousandsspectators cover thewhitesands ▲ HOLY WAVE MAKING WAVES almost heating myalmost heating back.” intense energy [of thecrowd] some reason, Icouldfeel the your ButinBrazil, senses. for says. fullyoccupies “Theocean there,” the28-year-old Australian you getlostinthemoment out final. “To toread try theocean, MooreCarissa inthewomen’s defeated ◀ CATCHING AIR

GUTTER PHOTO CREDIT I’VE EVER EVER I’VE IN FRONTIN “IT’S THE THE “IT’S OF IN MY OF MY IN BIGGEST BIGGEST SURFED SURFED CROWD CROWD WHOLE WHOLE LIFE.” It’s mayhem.” sounds][the beach like astadium. says. “And assoonyou land, everybody isquiet,waiting,” Toledo pumping togothrough aturnhere, hometown victory. “Whenyou start Brazilian clinched the in themen’s finalversus , apyrotechnicAfter display ofaerials ◀ CAPTURE THE FLAG Why amIhere? Why amIdoingthis?’ ” perspective. You think,‘OK. Whatare my goalsnow? he says. “Once you really settleintoit,you getanoutside thingsthathavebeen thebest happenedtomy surfing,” training for 2020. “Ithinkallofmy have injuries weirdly Florenceseason. isalready recovering from surgery and thatendedhis2019 theinjury hesustained during aheat, of Rio. Whileattemptingaflyaway onabreaking wave Florence was ranked numberoneintheworld ahead BROKEN◀ POINT there compared toeverywhere else.” Rio],” says Ho. “You feel like arock star Instagram, peopleknew your name[in ago, andeven thoughthere was no stars. “Ifirst cametothisevent 10years Young fans wait for theirfavorite surf ▲ CROWD CRUSH October 2019 2019 October | Rolling Stone Stone Rolling |

67 68 THE WORLD SURF LEAGUE through smiling.” is communicating Portuguese. Thebest “I don’t speak holiday,” shesays. is mostpeople’s “What we call‘work’ atourist. becomes up acamera and the day, shepicks her board away for When Gilmore puts HOURS ▲ AFTER

| Rolling Stone Stone Rolling | October 2019 October Hawaii. a 27-year-old from says Moore, Carissa uncoordinated,” “I found outI’m so professional surfers. beyond thatofsome athletic skilleven ball —whichinvolves — volleying asoccer isaltinha the beach The soundtrack of ▼ BALLING you know?” felt supernatural, Toledo says. “This in my personal life,” some hard times “I was goingthrough aroughafter year. inarowvictory second OiRioPro Toledo clinchedhis Twenty-four-year-old ▶ THE SOUND OF OF VICTORY

GUTTER PHOTO CREDIT where there’s somecarnage— it’s unlike any othersport.” when we thebigger, surf hollow amazinglybeautiful waves — combinations are really exciting,” the26-year-old says. “And kicking backwithapost-competition beer.) “Theairs and Californian ConnerCoffin.(One way Coffin relaxes is “The level ontourishigherthanit’s ever been,” says ▶ HAPPY HOUR mind outofwhere you are.” Temerant. “Itcantake your in thefictionalworld of Rothfuss fantasy novel set name-checking aPatrick Name of theWind,”hesays, was reading abookcalled staying sharp:fiction.“I Florence’s strategy for THE BOOKS▲ HITTING ▼ is aworld language.” Fitzgibbons. “Surfing through thecrowd,” says yell your nameasyou run their favorite surfer and pick English, butthey’ll people don’t speak “shakas.” “Mostofthe A young fan shows his SAYING OLÁ March 2018 2018 March | Rolling Stone Stone Rolling a different focus.” bring New Age. The “He’s alittlebit . of 25-year-old WSL’s O’Connell beast,” says the competitive just themost in history, and strongest surfers “He’s oneofthe ◀ A MOMENT OF ZEN |

69 MAKING WAVES

▲ HAPPY WARRIOR

▲ HANG 20 “At my first victory, in 2010,” 29-year-old hometown hero Jadson Andre says, “people were crying on the In Brazil, surfing isn’t just for bipeds. This dog beach — a Brazilian hadn’t won in Brazil in a decade.” shreds a whitewater wave with excellent form.

▶ KING OF BRAZIL “We have only this one event in Brazil, so everyone gets to watch and support us,” Medina says of his home country. “It feels ▲ GOING SOLO really good to feel the love. I get to see my family and friends rooting for me — “When I’m actually riding the wave, everything kind of disappears,” three-time it’s a big one.” champion Moore says. “It’s like time stands still for a little bit. That’s why I love surfing in the ocean — it’s just you and the elements.”

▼ DAWN-TO-DUSK PATROL Young fans crowd into a rare patch of shade during the contest. “They come to the beach superearly in the morning and stay all day long,” says Gilmore. “As a surfer, you get such a thrill out of [seeing them].”

▲ BREAKING THROUGH “I never expected equal pay for men and women to ▲ FOOT TRAFFIC happen in my day,” When the World Surf League comes to town, says 23-year-old all roads lead to the beach. Brazilian Tatiana Weston-Webb of ◀ SCOREBOARD the World Surf “Anyone who says the Olympics League employing isn’t on the forefront of their ▶ THE MENTAL GAME pay parity for the mind is probably lying,” says Since debuting on tour in 2010, Moore has 36 men and 18 25-year-old Californian Lakey developed a more fluid style in the water. women on the tour. Peterson — out of the seven The second-place finisher says, “I feel more “It means a great American women competing in confident in the line that I’m drawing [with the deal. Some women the WSL’s Championship Tour, board]. I used to second-guess myself.” on tour don’t only two can make it to Tokyo. have sponsors, “My goal is to win the world so now they can title, and if I do that, I’ll make afford coaches the Olympics. It adds additional and physical pressure to have a great year.” therapy. We all want to be at the top of our game.”

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