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Atherton Tablelands Has Much to Off Er the Latter-Day Explorer

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Atherton Tablelands Has Much to Off Er the Latter-Day Explorer dinner’s on the tablelands With its Indigenous heritage, historic hamlets, lush rainforest, abundant wildlife and tempting tropical produce, the Atherton Tablelands has much to off er the latter-day explorer. WORDS SIMON THOMSEN PHOTOGRAPHY THOMAS WIELECKI Coffee country: Skybury Tropical Plantation, Mareeba DECEMBER 2013 QANTAS 83 FORAGE TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND The Great Barrier Reef grabs the attention of most visitors to Cairns, but turn your attention west and you’ll fi nd the Atherton Tablelands, an area of dramatic beauty and World Heritage-listed national parks. It’s blessed with crater lakes, lush rainforests, EAT excellent Thai fish cakes, spring The Royal Hotel rolls and fish dishes such as yabby pretty waterfalls and abundant wildlife. 46 Grace Street, Herberton. curry, as well as traditional fish The Indigenous heritage remains strong (07) 4096 2231. and chips. Take away a range of royalhotelherberton.com.au smoked products from eel and and it’s also an important food bowl, with This graciously classic two-storey ham to barramundi, plus sausages, tropical fruits such as mango, papaya and 1880 hotel lays claim to being one bushfood-flavoured chicken and of Queensland’s oldest continually even crocodile “bacon”, made by banana, as well as crops such as peanuts, licensed pubs. The publican and butcher Dave Hoffman, as well as /LAKE EACHAM/RUSTY’S MARKETS: GETTY IMAGES coff ee, tea, sugarcane and macadamia chef Paul Watson knocks up fresh fish and yabbies. decent pub grub for the beer nuts. Prime dairy country, it has seen a rise garden – chicken parmigiana, Lake Barrine Teahouse in cheesemakers in the past decade. The beer-battered barramundi, rump Gillies Highway, Yungaburra. steaks, pork chops and burgers, (07) 4095 3847. lakebarrine.com.au Tablelands is birdwatching heaven, with chips and salad for lunch. Delicious Devonshire teas and some 327 species to spot and several bird light lunches in this 1930s lakeside Tarzali Lakes cottage. Plus lake cruises and an hides built across the region. To the north, Smokehouse Cafe abundance of bird life. the Tablelands spills down to the Daintree Lot 3 Millaa Malanda Road, Malanda. (07) 4097 271. Origin Espresso region, croc country and the enticing tarzalilakes.com 21 Warner Street, Port Douglas. restaurants of Port Douglas. Peter Whiddett’s aquaculture (07) 4099 4586. farm is stocked with perch, originespresso.com barramundi and red claw yabbies. A blackboard declaring “Price can While away a few hours fishing in vary due to customer attitude” the dams with the kids, but the hints at a wicked streak in these Sugarcane near Mt Uncle Distillery; opposite (from left) really exciting moment is spotting serious young hipster coffee top: papaya tree at Skybury Tropical Plantation; The Peanut platypus and turtles in the nearby roasters, who make cold-drip Place; Port Douglas; middle: macadamias; Mossman River; Lake Eacham; bottom: Mungalli Creek Bio-Dynamic Dairy; creek, which is surprisingly easy. coffees and espresso hits. Little to Rusty’s Market, Cairns; between Atherton and Mareeba Whiddett’s wife, Yuwadee, makes eat beyond a few sweet snacks. ❯ PORT DOUGLAS PHOTOGRAPHY: PRUE RUSCOE/BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU; MACADAMIAS: BRETT STEVENS/BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU; MOSSMAN RIVER Buccini: porcini and FORAGE TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND mushroom risotto balls with taleggio (left and below) trout with orange, fennel and a tamarind dressing. Mungalli Creek Bio-Dynamic Dairy Emerald Creek 254 Brooks Road, Millaa Millaa. Ice-Creamery (07) 4097 2232. 3950 Kennedy Highway, Mareeba. mungallicreekdairy.com.au (07) 4093 3373. This biodynamic farm, 4km off emeraldcreek.com.au Palmerston Highway, is next to Rum and raisin is the best seller the world’s oldest Heritage-listed among nearly 30 different flavours rainforest and looks across to of ice-cream and sorbet, but the Queensland’s highest peak, Mount adventurous might like to try bush Seabean: crèma Catalana Bartle Frere. The Watson family served in a half-coconut flavours such as wattleseed or has run a mixed herd here for wild plum and elderberry. It’s hard 50 years and makes milk, yoghurt to go past the house-made apple and cheese. The Watsons have nearby Italian eatery Buccini exporter. Their Australian Coffee pie with ice-cream or a banana converted the old farmhouse into (buccini.com.au) opens early. Centre has great views over the split with macadamias a factory, teahouse and regional- plantation and a cafe serving produce store. Lunch on a cheese Seabean snacks and lunch. The gift shop SHOP plate with local condiments, then Wharf & Warner Streets, sells coffee, coffee-related Cloud Nine Guitars spanikopita, lasagne or a three- Port Douglas. (07) 4099 5558. paraphernalia and souvenirs. Shop 7/11 Beor Street, Craiglie. cheese pie, before cheesecake. seabean.com.au Regular plantation tours – it also (07) 4099 1682. The impressive Mungalli Falls is a This bright, breezy boathouse-like grows red papaya and lady finger cloudnineguitars.com.au short drive away. dinner spot takes inspiration from bananas – include a visit to the Lisa Sophocleous and Mark Spain, with familiar tapas followed processing factory and a coffee O’Brien use local rainforest Harrison’s by Catalan fish stew, paella and cupping (tasting) class. timbers to produce their beautiful Restaurant & Bar piri piri chicken with cous cous. custom instruments. They also run 22 Wharf Street, Port Douglas. The crème brûlée in a coconut is The Junction Cafe courses on guitar making. (07) 4099 4011. a local legend and the restaurant 1/5 Front Street, Mossman. harrisonsrestaurant.com.au is open from 3pm for those in (07) 4098 3398. Tolga Englishman Spencer Patrick need of post-siesta sangria. Cane trains chug past this cute Woodworks Gallery learned his trade under celebrity retro cafe where the hipster dial is 89-91 Kennedy Highway, Tolga. chef Marco Pierre White in the Australian set at 1950. Excellent coffee, tea in (07) 4095 4488. 1990s, and the food is European Coffee Centre old china cups, straightforward tolgawoodworks.com.au slick, as is his smartly casual, Skybury Tropical Plantation wraps, sandwiches and burgers – From cheeseboards to chopsticks, outdoorsy restaurant. Think 136 Ivicevic Road, Mareeba. but the real fun is blackboard spinning tops, bowls, timber malted scallops with sweetbreads, (07) 4093 2190. skybury.com.au specials such as slow-cooked pork sculptures, clocks and tables, this gingerbread, pickled raisins and The MacLaughlin family is belly, green pawpaw and calamari brings the best out of rainforest radish – with prices to match. The Australia’s leading coffee bean salad; and house-smoked ocean timbers. The cheapest, easiest ❯ PRODUCTIONS GEORGE/CATSEYE ALISON SEABEAN PHOTOGRAHY: 86 QANTAS DECEMBER 2013 Spy & Camera Museum, Herberton; Tolga Woodworks Gallery (top left); Atherton Chinatown Museum & Hou Wang Temple (above and left) bushwalkers and birdwatchers. A 3km loop takes you around the lake rim and there’s a 1.4km children’s walk. Curtain Fig Tree Fig Tree Road, near Yungaburra. option is to take home a cross-cut Allan Maruff bought land in the nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/curtain-fig round of a rare timber, such as red Nerada valley and transplanted An awe-inspiring 500-year-old cedar, to polish and turn into a seedlings here. Nerada tea has Shannonvale Tropical SEE & DO freak-of-nature fig tree, which cutting board. There is also a cafe. been in supermarkets for 40 years. Fruit Winery Herberton Spy & looks like it belongs in a Tolkien After a factory tour, enjoy a cuppa 417 Shannonvale Road, Mossman. Camera Museum tale, this monster has aerial roots The Peanut Place and plantation views. (07) 4098 4000. 49 Grace Street, Herberton. dropping 15m from the sky, Kennedy Highway, Tolga. shannonvalewine.com.au (07) 4096 2092. creating a curtain spanning 40m. (07) 4095 5333. Janbal Gallery The old farmhouse setting in lush spycameramuseum.com.au thepeanutplace.com.au 5 Johnston Road, Mossman. forest suggests the local Would-be 007s and shutterbugs Mossman Gorge Centre This yellow-brick roadside shed (07) 4099 5599. moonshiner, but Tony and Trudi will enjoy photographer Michael (07) 4099 7000. has several flavoured peanuts – janbalgallery.com.au Woodall create dry-style table Petersen’s collection of cameras mossmangorge.com.au butterscotch and caramel or Brian “Binna” Swindley is an wines from passionfruit, mango, and spy gear, including Soviet Curtain fig tree; mangosteens at Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery (inset) This Heritage-listed rainforest honey and ginger, anyone? – as Indigenous artist, inheriting his jaboticaba, ginger and lychee, plus buttonhole cameras. His personal is now a sleek Indigenous-run well as peanut products, from talent from his late mother, Shirley ports from kaffir lime, sapote, tour brings it all to life. attraction with a cafe serving butter to oil, plus ice-cream. It’s “Janbal” Swindley, after whom the mangosteen and cocoa beans. Chinatown, based around cedar and rainforest histories of the struggle with habitat loss. The bush tucker-flavoured dishes, an a handy road-trip snack stop. gallery is named. He sells his own Hastie’s Swamp cutting and farming peanuts, region, while outside the Johnston hospital cares for four species, art gallery and regular shuttle works, plus art and jewellery by Golden Pride Winery nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/ maize and lychees, emerged on River tumbles over an ancient plus tube-nosed and micro- buses to the gorge. Don’t forget Mt Uncle Distillery others, and offers art classes. 227 Bilwon Road, Biboohra. hasties-swamp the outskirts of Atherton. This basalt lava flow to form this bats. The afternoon visiting time swimmers to splash among the 1819 Chewko Road, Walkamin. (07) 4093 2750. This wetland 4km from Atherton unique 110-year-old temple, now waterfall and popular swimming coincides with feeding, and seeing jungle perch and saw-shelled (07) 4086 8008. mtuncle.com Gallo Dairyland The late Charlie Nastasi was an has a two-storey bird hide and is a National Trust property, was hole.
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