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Waterfall Ice Climbing and Avalanches

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Waterfall Ice Climbing and Avalanches Avalanche Hazard Avalanche Bulletins parkscanada.gc.ca Avalanche hazard is the most significant threat to ice climbers in Avalanche bulletins are produced for all of the Mountain Parks, the Canadian Rockies. The vast majority of routes are exposed and are updated daily (twice weekly in Waterton Lakes) from Waterfall Ice Climbing to avalanche hazard - often for extended periods. The simple November to April. Information is provided regarding the current fact that water flows and freezes in gullies makes ice climbing and forecast avalanche conditions as well as danger ratings for and Avalanches routes natural terrain traps. Some of the avalanche related alpine, treeline and below treeline regions. Conditions change challenges facing the Rockies ice climber include: regularly – ice climbers should check this bulletin as part of their in Canada’s Mountain National Parks daily routine. SECOND EDITION • Complicated approach terrain requiring early starts • Long exposure times climbing waterfalls threatened by Avalanche bulletins are available at Park Information Centres, overhead hazard 1 800 667 1105, or at www.avalanche.ca. Additional information is • Potentially different snow and weather conditions affecting available at www.parksmountainsafety.ca. avalanche terrain above the route Using the ATES ratings • Climbing above cliffs, or between steep pitches on avalanche prone terrain The following list of rated climbs represents a selection of the • Rapid temperature changes that trigger avalanches and most popular routes in the Mountain National Parks – there are topple waterfalls many others that are not listed here. These ratings are intended to supplement pre-trip planning material, and should be used in • Shallow and weak snowpack conditions that prevail most of combination with other resources to get a good sense of your the winter proposed climbing route. The ATES describes avalanche terrain only and does not represent the difficulty of the climbing in any However, not all waterfall climbs are fraught with avalanche way. The best resource for waterfall climbers (in 2010) is the hazards – it is the ice climber’s challenge to determine where to following guidebook: climb on their chosen day. The information included here will help climbers to make informed choices, matching their Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies (fourth edition, exposure to avalanches with the ever-changing avalanche 2002) – by Joe Josephson conditions. This publication is available at local mountain specialty stores. Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale (ATES) Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale (ATES) v.1/04 Traditional models used for rating avalanche danger are based Description Class Terrain Criteria for Waterfall ice climbing in the national parks of Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay on the stability of the snow, which changes regularly with the Waterfall Ice Climbing Routes and Waterton Lakes offer an unparalleled experience for the ice climber. A weather – from day to day, or even hour to hour. Terrain combination of access, reliable conditions, hundreds of options, and a long however, doesn’t change with the weather. The ATES is Routes surrounded by low angle or primarily season have secured the Canadian Rockies reputation as one of the world’s Simple 1 forested terrain; possible brief exposure premier waterfall ice climbing destinations. designed to categorize avalanche terrain based on unchanging characteristics. By using the ATES, climbers will get a sense of time to infrequent avalanches. But winter climbing in the Canadian Rockies presents significant hazards that the type of avalanche terrain threatening their proposed route are unique to this area, and visitors must understand these hazards before Routes with brief exposure to starting zones climbing in the range. These are big mountains; climbers must be informed, and its approach. Challenging 2 or terrain traps, or long exposure time in the prepared, aware of their options, and respectful of the conditions at all times. runout zones of infrequent avalanches. photo: Andrew Querner Andrew photo: AVALANCHE TERRAIN RATINGS AND DAILY Routes with frequent exposure to multiple overlapping avalanche paths or large AVALANCHE BULLETINS MUST BE USED IN Complex 3 expanses of steep, open terrain; multiple COMBINATION FOR EVALUATING HAZARDS avalanche starting zones and terrain traps AND SELECTING ICE CLIMBING LOCATIONS. or cliffs below. Experience and Training SIMPLE – CLASS 1 Jasper National Park Yoho National Park * Denotes routes not exposed to Shades of Beauty Sad and Beautiful World Carlsberg Column Ice climbing in the Rockies demands avalanche skills. Take a avalanche hazards Curtain Call Takkakaw Falls Guinness Gully recreational avalanche course, carry appropriate rescue Kerkeslin Falls Silk Tassel Cold Choice Banff National Park equipment, climb with solid partners, and recognize the limitations The Wings and the Stage Twisted Blessed Rage Bearspirit * Super Bock of your knowledge. If you and your partner’s understanding of Wildfire Jasper National Park Johnston Canyon * Extra Lite avalanches is minimal, limit yourself to Simple (Class 1) terrain. Waterton Lakes National Park Slipstream Louise Falls Cool Spring Balfour Wall Compound Gullies Echo Madness Qualified instruction and guidance can be obtained from a Massey’s Panther Falls Quick and Dirty Schism Game professional Mountain Guide who is certified by the Association of Pilsner Pillar Mixed Master Expert’s Choice photo: Brad White Canadian Mountain Guides, and permitted to guide in the Lower Weeping Wall Lineham Cliff Waterfall National Parks. Malignant Mushroom Sullivan Falls Wicked Wanda General Advice Aquarius COMPLEX – CLASS 3 • Conditions can vary significantly from east to west across the Fearful Symmetry Banff National Park range – eastern regions are generally drier, except following Rainbow Serpent The Terminator upslope storms which deposit more snow on the eastern Kootenay National Park Sea of Vapours The Replicant slopes. Haffner Creek* La Goutte Marble Canyon* • Areas to the east of the National Parks offer additional options Sacre Blue for climbs free from avalanche hazards, and a drier climate - Yoho National Park Spray River Falls check the guidebook. Iron Curtain Cascade Waterfall The Urs Hole • Avalanche bulletins cover large regions and describe the Jasper National Park general conditions. Local variation is common and climbers Bourgeau Right-Hand Tangle Falls * Bourgeau Left-Hand must remain vigilant in their analysis of the immediate Meltout Linda Ice Nine conditions while climbing. Maligne Canyon Ice Climbs * Gimme Shelter • Temperature inversions, rain and sun exposure can rapidly Edge of the World * Riptide change conditions and trigger avalanches - snow loses WAD Valley Transparent Fool (approach) strength as its warms. Sunwapta Falls Whoa Whoa Capitaine Mt. Wilson Routes • Predicting the stability of free hanging ice is dubious. A rule of CHALLENGING – CLASS 2 Ice Nine thumb is that large temperature changes within a short time Banff National Park Polar Circus frame will stress the ice and cause collapse. Professor Falls (last pitch) Professor Falls (without last pitch) Seven Pillars of Wisdom • Climbing below other parties can be dangerous - consider your Rogan’s Gully Avalanche over Bourgeau Right-Hand Cadeau Cache exposure to falling ice. Orion Falls Disclaimer The Silver Lining Bow Falls • Alpine waterfall routes (eg. Slipstream, Gimme Shelter) present Pointless/Aimless Gullies There are inherent risks in ice climbing, and most of the climbs described additional hazards of crevasses, cornices and seracs, and may Murchison Falls Cosmic Messenger here will at times be unsafe due to potential snow avalanches. The Parks only be considered reasonable objectives during very short Virtual Reality Canada Agency has done its best to provide accurate information and to Upper Weeping Wall Kootenay National Park describe the avalanche terrain characteristics typical of each climb. windows. However, it is up to the users of this information to learn the necessary Lacy Gibbot Nemesis • “Fixation” on specific routes can lead to trouble – be open skills for ice climbing, access additional trip planning materials, and to The French Reality exercise caution while travelling in the backcountry of any national park. minded, well researched with options, and willing to retreat to Kootenay National Park Acid Howl try again another day. Helmet Falls Suffer Machine Users of this information do so entirely at their own risk, and the Parks Red Commie Star Killer Pillar Canada Agency disclaims any liability for injury, injury resulting in death or • Please respect other park users in popular locations such as damage to anyone undertaking to climb any of the routes described. This Johnston and Maligne Canyons. Keep the snow surface clean Yoho National Park Birthday Present information is no substitute for experience and good judgement. Storm Creek routes and pack out all litter. Betty’s Pillar C Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Canada Catalogue No: R64-379/2010E ISBN: 978-1-100-15097-0.
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